Perfumers often use analogies to describe their craft. Calice Becker, the nose behind Dior’s famous J’adore, likens her work to that of an architect. Stephen Nilsen, who created Vera Wang Lovestruck, thinks of it as writing music: He groups single fragrance notes into chords—or accords, as they’re called in the business—and arranges a finished composition. Francis Kurkdjian believes perfumery, at its heart, is storytelling. And that may be one reason he’s wary of a recent development in fragrance: the use of artificial intelligence.
On a recent Friday evening, the co-founder of Maison Francis Kurkdjian calls from a Paris café to explain. Oui, he knows of several fragrance companies that use AI. And oui, he’s smelled some of those creations. He remains unimpressed. “So far, I haven’t seen anything unusual, daring,…
