Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2020 i ELLE

COUTURE STANDOUT Giambattista Valli’s Magnum Opus Given the hours and expertise that go into creating an haute couture garment, it’s a shame so few people get to see one in person. Giambattista Valli, who sneaked into Alta Moda shows as a child, decided to buck tradition this season, taking over a Paris gallery space where tout le monde could take their time marveling at his fantastical creations. THE ARCHITECTURAL IT BAG Max Mara x Whitney Museum of American Art To mark the fifth anniversary of New York’s new Whitney Museum of American Art, Max Mara has teamed up with Renzo Piano Building Workshop for a special edition of the brand’s Whitney Bag, available in five new colors (plus one coordinating scarf; Poppy bag not shown). The palette was inspired by…

Last year, the Swedish Fashion Council made an unprecedented move while planning the annual Stockholm Fashion Week: They canceled the event entirely, citing concerns about its environmental impact. Not everyone in fashion is taking such drastic measures, of course, but it spoke to the urgent need for action on the issue, one that designers and customers alike are now recognizing. Fashion is responsible for around 10 percent of the world’s carbon emissions and nearly 20 percent of the world’s water waste, according to several United Nations groups. An estimated 85 percent of the world’s textiles end up in landfills or incinerated. Fast fashion no doubt contributes mightily to this waste, but it is by no means alone. At the G7 summit in August, 32 major fashion companies, including Kering, Chanel,…

A GLOBAL GOODWILL AMBASSADOR to both the United Nations and Fashion 4 Development, and a World Wildlife Fund council member, Carmen Busquets has extended her reach well beyond the front row. With an innate knack for seeing opportunities in the most difficult of situations, Busquets managed to successfully steer her Caracas boutique through the political instability of her native Venezuela in the early ’90s and became a founding majority investor in Net-a-Porter. Now she feels it is her personal duty to empower more Latin American artisans and entrepreneurs. Among Busquets’s 2020 initiatives is Looking for the Masters, her first film series, which highlights the talents of unsung craftspeople in Latin America and the Caribbean, while aiming to ensure their artistic traditions survive through strategic partnerships with luxury brands. Busquets has…

Last Labor Day weekend, Jane Fonda was sitting around in Big Sur with pals Rosanna Arquette and Catherine Keener feeling “very depressed that I wasn’t doing enough about the climate crisis.” She’d already stopped using single-use plastics, started driving an electric car, and cut back on meat, but she still yearned to make a bigger impact. “When you’re famous, you have this incredible potential platform, but how do you use it?” Fonda says. And then she realized, “I have to put myself on the line.” So she called up Annie Leonard, the executive director of Greenpeace USA, and told her she was going to camp out in front of the White House. “She said, ‘Well, that’s great that you’re willing to do that, but it’s illegal,’” says Fonda, laughing over…

If Jane Fonda can’t motivate you, no one can. With her stirring Fire Drill Fridays protests in Washington, DC, the legendary actress has brought much-needed attention to the climate crisis. “When you’re famous, you have this incredible potential platform, but how do you use it?” Fonda says she asked herself recently. And then the answer came to her: “I have to put myself on the line.” For our second annual Conservation issue, we tapped Fonda and fellow activists to share their inspiring stories in honor of the fiftieth anniversary of Earth Day (page 127). ELLE has an ongoing commitment to covering all things green, and 30 of our international editions are marking this milestone month with sustainability-themed issues. Seeing the tragic fires that have ravaged Australia and the global rise…

Allegra Shaw remembers a time, three or four years ago, when packages from brands—clothes and beauty products sent in the hope that Shaw, a YouTuber with nearly a million followers, would dedicate a video to them—came equipped with confetti explosions and television screens. “When you get a TV in a package, how do you dispose of it?” Shaw says. As conversations around the climate crisis and ethical consumerism reach critical mass, she is one of many influencers rethinking a system that requires them to wear, share, and promote the latest trends at a breakneck pace. Fashion is a notoriously wasteful industry: Nearly 9,000 tons of solid waste generated from the production of clothing and footwear was sent to landfills in 2017, according to the EPA. Still, attitudes are changing. Burberry…

COME ONE, COME ALL “Can I make great clothes that work harder for me and are better for the planet?” was the question that mother and businesswoman Veronica Chou sought to answer when founding Everybody & Everyone. Specializing in essentials such as jeans, tees, knits, and outerwear, the eco-innovative womenswear brand partners with manufacturers and suppliers who are committed to reducing water and energy usage and prioritizing the use of recycled textiles. Best of all: It’s size-inclusive, a rarity in the eco realm. RARE BIRD Rianna Nektaria Kounou and Nina Kuhn search the world for eye-catching fabrics for Rianna + Nina, their coveted line of separates and dressing gowns. This season, the duo adds limited-edition bags to the brand’s colorful assortment. The Treasure Box (above), crafted from upcycled vintage scarves,…

OCEAN-FRIENDLY FORMULA Kelsen Signature Pomade ($29) Kelsen uses natural beeswax and its Marine Performance Blend—a proprietary, sustainably harvested mix of organic kelp, sea holly, and sea rock fennel—in place of silicone. “Silicone can’t be broken down; it’s like liquid plastic,” says Barbara Olioso, PhD, founder of the Green Chemist Consultancy. Kelsen’s entire blue beauty line (see Green Dictionary sidebar) is microplastic-free, and its recyclable packaging is made from glass or biodegradable sugarcane, some topped off with compostable wood-composite caps. LOW-FOOTPRINT HAIR CARE MyKirei by Kao Nourishing Shampoo ($18) The groundbreaking recyclable packaging of MyKirei, a new beauty line from the Japanese company Kao, employs an air-filled design to ensure you get every last drop. Imagine a Capri Sun that slowly collapses with each use—but with sides rigid enough to stand…

POETREE @poeism Influencer, artist, dancer, poet, model “I use Mofajang Color Hair Wax ($30) for quick color. The texture, smell, and application are similar to that of a conditioner, and the ingredients—like beeswax and castor oil, which are amazing for dry hair—are 100 percent natural. It’s a temporary dye that comes in seven different colors, and I mix them [together] for more shade options. I love that I don’t have to lift my hair [with bleach] first in order to get vibrant color.” A recent study published in the International Journal of Cancer found that regular use of permanent hair dye can increase the risk of breast cancer among black women by 60 percent, while chemical hair straighteners are associated with a 30 percent increase. RO MORGAN @hairbyromorgan Celebrity hairstylist…

My name is Greta and I am 15 years old. My little sister, Beata, will turn 13 this autumn. We can’t vote in the parliamentary election even though the political issues now at stake are going to affect our whole lives in a way that can’t be compared with previous generations. If we live to be 100, then we’re going to be here well into the next century, and that sounds really strange, I know. Because when you talk about the future today, it usually means in just a few years’ time. Everything beyond the year 2050 is so distant that it doesn’t even exist in our imaginations. But by then my little sister and I—hopefully—will not even have lived half our lives. My grandfather is 93 and his father…

Oh, Greta Thunberg, I am in awe of you. You are so pure! You upcycle. You inspired your mom’s decision to give up her international opera career to reduce carbon emissions. And you and your friends give me flygskam! I know that sounds like a word from that hilarious You-Tube video of the seal making human noises like “L’egg!” and “Fibsh!,” but it’s a real thing—flygskam is the social pressure not to fly because of the rising greenhouse gas emissions of the airline industry. Compared to you, Greta, I am a sloppy, meat-eating, nonrecycling, SUV-driving, international-flight-flying slob. I am my own personal atmospheric Armageddon. Influenced by Greta—and by the galvanizing voices of other young activists around the world—I recently decided to make a pact with myself. I would leave (or…

READ Death in Her Hands (Penguin Press; April 21) Ottessa Moshfegh follows her beloved 2018 title, My Year of Rest and Relaxation, with a fresh take on the archetypal murder mystery. The novel tracks an isolated widow’s descent into madness after finding a mysterious note in the woods. Wow, No Thank You. (Vintage Books; March 31) Samantha Irby’s brilliant cultural insight is on full display in a new collection of candid essays recounting her transition from life as a single person working in a Chicago veterinary hospital to a married woman in a house with a garden in Kalamazoo, Michigan. These days she’s getting fan notes from Abbi Jacobson and working for Hulu, but her eerily relatable approach to life remains intact. Tales of Two Planets (Penguin Books; April 21)…

A lot of famous people become environmental activists. But very few of them come to the cause the way Rosario Dawson did. When she was six, Dawson and her parents moved into an abandoned tenement in New York City’s East Village. It had no hot water or electricity. They were squatters—scrapping and salvaging and building a home out of found materials from around the city. When someone put a chair out on the curb, her family would stop to see if it could be rehabbed or repurposed in some way. As a little girl, “I knew about Sheetrock and reusing nails,” she says. “It was often about necessity, but even then, it made sense—if it’s not broken, we can use it, and if it is, we can fix it.” Her…

You could say Grimes was born to be an environmentalist. When she was a baby, her mom strapped her to her back and then fastened herself to a tree to prevent it from being cut down. These days, the Canadian musician, who no longer goes by Grimes in her personal life but by her nickname, c (the initial of her first name, Claire, styled in lowercase italics), has annihilation on the brain. Last year, she declared her intention to “kill Grimes soon” in a “public execution.” In February, she released her concept album Miss Anthropocene, centered on an anthropomorphic goddess of climate change—a supervillain who sings that “imminent annihilation sounds so dope.” Chas always been interested in politics, and the environment has long been a theme in her music. Rather…

1 THE TOTE Dior replanted all the trees used in its spring 2020 enchanted forest–themed show. For your own horticultural pursuits, try the house’s logo gardening bag. Tote, Dior, $3,600 (tools not included), call 800-929-DIOR. 2 THE SHOE Fendi’s retro-chic slingback shines with a spring-ready verdant print. Slingback heel, Fendi, $890, fendi.com. 3 THE TIMEPIECE With its emerald grass-blade band and ruby-and-diamond ladybug, Van Cleef & Arpels’s Secret de Coccinelle watch is a dazzling tribute to nature. Watch, Van Cleef & Arpels, vancleefarpels.com.…

I’d been married nearly 12 years but rarely wore my ring,” says ELLE’s accessories director, Alexis Wolfe, of her original engagement ring. “When I first saw Selim Mouzannar’s work, it felt like the perfect meeting of modernity and tradition.” Wolfe worked with the Beirut-based designer and arrived at a sustainable solution: resetting her diamond in rose gold and black enamel. Now she seldom takes it off. Mouzannar is among a select group of environmentally conscious jewelry talents popularizing upcycling in its highest form. And with so much value at stake, perhaps it’s time to take a closer look at your own treasures before making your next purchase. New York’s Brent Neale Winston creates updated heirlooms using her signature flush-mount “Gypsy” setting, which embeds stones in metal for a mosaiclike effect,…

It should come as no surprise that Victoria Beckham doesn’t believe in excess. The fashion elite consider her scrupulously tailored clothing designs a mainstay. But the world first came to know her as Posh, one-fifth of the Spice Girls, notably sleek in a uniform of little black dresses that, like her more current nickname (VB), were short and sweet. Her eponymous clean beauty line, which debuted this past fall, is no different. The list of excluded ingredients—31—dramatically outnumbers the items themselves: five makeup and two skin-care products, clad in chic tortoiseshell packaging made with minimal plastic and shipped in biodegradable foam. “It was about creating what I want in my own makeup bag,” Beckham says. “The most luxurious formulas, but really making sure that they were clean.” In ELLE’s word-association…

“SO YOU REALLY WANT TO KNOW [what I’ve had done]?” says Huda Kattan through a shy smile. I do—and I’m guessing her 43 million Instagram followers and 3.8 million YouTube subscribers are also curious. We’re sitting in the bathroom of Huda Beauty’s Dubai headquarters, which often doubles as the setting for the videos that launched a thousand cut creases. The 36-year-old entrepreneur takes a deep breath and walks me through all the work it’s taken—both cosmetically and mentally—to transform herself into the makeup innovator, mother, and mononymous beauty icon she is today. A nose job in 2013. Subtle Botox tweaks in the face and jawline. A breast lift. Fillers in her lips, cheeks, and chin, and under the eyes. Dissolving those fillers because she felt like it was too much.…

WELCOME TO OUR EARTH DAY 2169 REFERENDUM! For most of you, this is your first time gathering together in a public place. And for all of you, this may be the gravest decision you will ever make as AICitizen voters. On screens throughout the Great Hall, you are seeing a magnified image of the primate MARTHE in real time—yes, this is the notorious MARTHE, the “last living member of her species,” aged 171. For a mammal of her age, MARTHE is considered a “highly attractive” specimen, though in some quarters she has become loathed as the symbol of a “weak, moribund, predator species” whose artificially engineered survival has strained the State’s financial resources. Yes, MARTHE’s eyes are intensely “blue”—and yes, the eyes are “open”—but don’t be deceived that MARTHE is…

When it comes to the climate crisis, we all have a role to play. Perhaps no one understands that more than these entertainers-turned-activists, who are harnessing their platforms and projects to take action. The powerhouse women featured here span generations and genres, but one thing firmly unites them: their passion for our planet. This month, we go behind the scenes of Jane Fonda’s bold new protest movement—and the night she spent in jail. Rosario Dawson shares how growing up in a family of squatters inspires her work today. Madelaine Petsch tells us how she makes going vegan easy. And Grimes tells us how she’s making environmentalism fun. Different tactics, different approaches, but the same goal—securing the earth’s future.…

On Riverdale, the CW’s moody and melodramatic send-up of the Archie Comics (which recently wrapped its fourth season), the character Cheryl Blossom is known for being extremely stylish and incredibly vindictive. Though in some respects she’s a misunderstood survivor of trauma, Cheryl is also a revenge mastermind capable of torturing her perceived enemies. Which is especially wild considering the woman who plays Cheryl, 25-year-old Madelaine Petsch, is a notably gentle soul. Points of comparison: Cheryl Blossom once donned a cherry-red gas mask in order to roach-bomb her own mother and then lock her in a makeshift bunker (to be fair, her mom pretty much deserved it). Petsch, on the other hand, is a lifelong vegan who wants to help others shift to a plant-based diet in a way that’s inspiring…

The Queen in the North is sitting regally before a lighted mirror in the kitchen of a luxurious house in Venice Beach, California. Outside the large front windows, a river of humanity streams past on the Strand—walkers and runners and riders of all manner of wheeled conveyance. Across a wide expanse of fine sand lies the Pacific Ocean, a dazzling azure sea against a cloudless sky of Crayola blue. Inside the house, Sophie Turner, 24, submits to the ministrations of her attendants. Though her hair is back to its natural blond, she is immediately recognizable as the English schoolgirl who first appeared on our screens nine years ago, at the age of 13, in the beloved and much-lauded HBO series Game of Thrones. As the auburn-haired Sansa Stark, Turner portrayed…

COVERS ON SOPHIE TURNER: Dress by Louis Vuitton, select Louis Vuitton boutiques nationwide. ON JANE FONDA: Jacket, $3,590, trousers, $990, by Alexander McQueen, Alexander McQueen (NYC). Bodysuit by Falke, $180, falke.com. Earrings, $3,400, rings, from $900, by Tiffany & Co., tiffany.com. EDITOR’S LETTER PAGE 34: Dress by Christopher Kane, similar styles at christopherkane.com. Tights by Falke, falke.com. Boots by The Way We Wore, L.A., thewaywewore.com. Vintage Norma Kamali dress by Shop Morphew, 1stdibs.com. Jumpsuit by Bottega Veneta, bottegaveneta.com. Blouse by Versace, versace.com. Boots by Balenciaga, Balenciaga (NYC). All jewelry by Tiffany & Co., tiffany.com. TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE 39: Jacket, trousers, sandals by JW Anderson, jwanderson.com. ACCESSORIES PAGE 76: Bracelet by Carolina Bucci, $15,600, carolinabucci.com. PAGE 78: Earrings by Daniela Villegas x Muzo Emeralds, $50,000, danielavillegas.com. SHOPS PAGE 88: Jacket…