On a bright autumn day at the Viceroy Snowmass ski resort, Chad Yakobson, the 31-year-old owner of the Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project, holds a goblet of a beer he makes called Surette. Like all of Crooked Stave’s styles, it’s made with Brettanomyces, or wild yeast, a category of beer that’s growing popular even as it fights a certain stigma of being overly bold. Brettanomyces, Latin for “British fungus,” appear on beer lists as wilds, funks and the term Yakobson likes the least, sours.
The clear Rocky Mountain light pouring through the window in Snowmass Village, Colo., illuminates the goblet like a straw-colored bulb.
“It’s grassy, citrusy and earthy,” Yakobson says to a gathering of two dozen people who have assembled for a seminar about Bretts. “The word people like…
