“When it pleaseth her in the summer season to recreate abroad, and view the estate of the country, every nobleman’s house is her palace” Accounts for Queen Elizabeth I’s visit to her Secretary of State, Sir William Petre, at Ingatestone Hall in Essex early in her reign in 1561 provide an astonishing insight into the lavish feasting laid on for her royal retinue. Over three to four days, the hungry horde was offered three oxen, veal, muttons, rabbits, pigeons, plaice, sturgeon, “conger and other sea fish”, cygnets, gulls, herons, quails, geese, chickens, and on and on. Judging from the quantities of herbs, spices, cream, butter and eggs listed, dishes likely came served with an abundance of rich sauces – and gallon upon gallon of Gascon, French and Rhenish wines.
Apart…