It’s the week before Tet and the narrow streets of Hoi An’s ancient quarter are heaving. More than a decade has passed since my last visit to this once strategic river port on Vietnam’s central coast, and, pandemic aside, tourism has clearly been booming. Little wonder, really: between the 15th and 19th centuries, Hoi An served as an entrepôt for Chinese, Japanese, and European traders plying the spice route, and its well-preserved mix of temples, clan houses, merchant residences, and lantern-hung shop fronts, their facades invariably daubed a cheerful shade of yellow, is undeniably beguiling. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site back in 1999, Hoi An’s historic town center has since become a fixture on Vietnam’s must-see list. And boy, does it get crowded.
What a relief, then, to be…
