Cherry trees heavy with blood-red fruit stand out against the snowy peaks of Hunza Valley in Pakistan’s mountainous north. Nearby, steep farm terraces unfold like emerald skirts around the 13th-century Baltit Fort, daubing the surrounding desert with splashes of vibrant color. We’re ushered into the timber- and stone stronghold by Salahuddin, a veteran security guard with a mustache so long it’s tucked around his ears. Inside, the fort’s walnut woodwork is intricately carved with motifs like breaking waves, solar wheels, and swastikas, evoking Tibetan temples. “This region is nicknamed Little Tibet because of the many similarities we share with our neighbor,” Arman, our guide, explains.
Before the 1947 partition of British India, the territory that became Pakistan was dotted with independent princely states like Hunza, which was ruled by a…
