Innholdsfortegnelse for Aug/Sept 2019 i DestinAsian

As much as I love a five-star stay in the Maldives—complete with butlers, chic overwater villas with glass inserts in the floor, indulgent spas, and infinity-edge pools—one of our broader goals here at DestinAsian is to let readers see even the most familiar places in a whole new light. So it’s heartening to read this issue’s cover story by husband-and-wife team Daniel Bosley and Aishath Naj, about their ongoing project to document the Maldives that few tourists know. Dreamy photos aside, it offers a real insiders’ perspective and shows us new possibilities for exploring this Indian Ocean paradise. In a similar vein, Jonathan Hopfner reports on a trend in Seoul that has taken hold within the last decade or so: a renewed appreciation of traditional Korean houses known as hanok.…

CORNERSTONE Given his recent star turn on the Netflix show “The Final Table,” one might expect Shane Osborn’s new restaurant to be a splashy affair. After all, Osborn was also the first Australian chef to gain a Michelin star when heading the kitchen at fine-dining institution Pied à Terre in London, while his Hong Kong flagship, Arcane, is usually booked solid. Yet Cornerstone has quietly opened on Hollywood Road, with no phone or website, and a discreetly signed marble entrance that’s easy to miss. With seating for just 24 people, the stylish interiors are as concise as the menu, which changes regularly under the watch of head chef Neal Ledesma. Top-notch produce shines in dishes such as oxheart tomato and burrata with pesto, and red prawn with lemon thyme and…

Bangkok. For hundreds of years, it's been a city that has welcomed curious travelers from around the world, from the traders and missionaries of old to 20th Century writers seeking inspiration to modern devotees of culture, architecture, nightlife, shopping, and cuisine. And despite the fact that its skyline has shot upward and it has become one of the world's most touristed cities, it remains unapologetically its own. Each piece of the city carries a unique story – a reclaimed piece of Chinese porcelain refigured into a temple wall, the echo of the chant of Buddhist monks down an otherwise quiet alleyway, the scent of grilled pork skewers on a busy boulevard, where the length of the queue indicates the wait is worth it. Travelers seeking a tranquil oasis amid the…

Her name is Karia. Under billowing sails, she glides across the deep blue of the Aegean while the October sun bounces off her gleaming teak deck. Sitting on ecru cushions near the bow, our party of three tucks into a huge spread of grilled vegetables and seafood. Everything is so astoundingly fresh that the only seasoning required is a touch of sea salt. Midway through our meal, I begin to understand why chartering a gulet, or wooden sailing yacht, is such a popular pastime around Turkey’s southwest Aegean coast. From the sea, the Bodrum Peninsula makes a fine sight: a rocky swath of sandy beaches and cypress trees punctuated by whitewashed villages and ancient olive groves. I’m not surprised to learn that it provided the setting for one of the…

Whether it’s holistic spa treatments, hikes through pristine Himalayan forests, or visits to centuries-old fortified monasteries known as dzongs, Six Senses Bhutan delivers memorable experiences at every turn. Guests who opt for its circuit of five luxurious lodges will embark on an unforgettable exploration of the kingdom’s west and central valleys. Each of the lodges feature arresting views over the landscape, spacious interiors that nod to Bhutanese architecture, and local touches such as traditional wood-burning stoves and vegetable-dyed rugs. Valid from November 2019 through August 2020 (except the month of April), the prize includes half-board accommodation in a suite for two, with two nights each at Six Senses Thimphu and Six Senses Paro. In addition, Six Senses is offering a car, driver, and guide for all five days at a…

IT’S HOLY FRIDAY in Quito, and tens of thousands of worshipers have gathered in the city’s 16th-century Centro Histórico for the annual procession of Jesús del Gran Poder. The conical purple hats of the cucuruchos—costumed penitents with chains fastened to their ankles or crosses of prickly cactus on their bare backs—bob up and down above the shoulders of the crowd like a rolling violet wave. Navigating the narrow, hilly streets through the flow of devotees is made even more challenging by the rarefied Andean air. At 2,850 meters above sea level, Quito is the world’s second-highest capital city, and I quickly find myself doubled over in an attempt to catch my breath. A passing trumpeter in a straw hat casts me a sympathetic gaze, uttering a single word of understanding:…

Colorado-based artist and graphic designer Bruce White has drawn painterly inspiration from destinations around the world, places such as Italy’s Amalfi Coast and the Costa Rican city of Puerto Limón. But it is the landscapes of the Western United States that dominate his fine-art work. White’s adopted home state of Colorado (he was born in Virginia and spent his teenage years in California) figures prominently in his portfolio, as does neighboring Utah, where a houseboat cruise on Lake Powell a few years ago brought him to the natural sandstone arch of Rainbow Bridge. “From the small dock where we tied off, it was just a 15-minute hike along a waterside trail to my first view of this massive rock formation, which towers almost 90 meters above the creek that flows…

DANIEL BOSLEY AND AISHATH NAJ Wrote and photographed “The Next Island,” p. 74 After relocating to the southernmost atoll in the Maldives shortly after getting married in 2016, this British-Maldivian couple set out to discover the hidden secrets of the ancient Dhivehi civilization for their blog Two Thousand Isles. “The delicate culture and environment of the islands are changing fast,” explains Naj. “We want to combine our work in order to collect as many of their stories while we still can.” Naj has developed a reputation as one of the country’s foremost photographers over the past decade, while Bosley has worked as a journalist in the Maldives since 2012, reporting for a wide range of international publications including Reuters and The Economist. JUN MICHAEL PARK Photographed “House Proud,” p. 106…

PARK LIFE New York City is getting greener thanks to a trio of recently opened waterfront spaces. July saw the debut of Brooklyn’s Shirley Chisholm State Park (parks.ny.gov), named in honor of a local politician who became the first African American woman elected to Congress in 1968. The recreational spot takes up two former landfills fronting Jamaica Bay, and features 16 kilometers of hiking and biking trails that wind through wildflower meadows and native grassland. Over in Williamsburg, the derelict grounds of a former riverside sugar factory have been transformed into Domino Park (dominopark.com). James Corner Field Operations, the landscape design firm behind the High Line, retained factory machinery and gantry cranes, contrasting the artifacts with swamp white oaks and wooden sun loungers. Just as intriguing is Hunter’s Point South…

Instantly recognizable by their anachronistic bodywork and flamboyant paint jobs, jeepneys are widely seen as a cultural icon of the Philippines. But their days may well be numbered. In a bid to modernize public transport across the country, the government plans to phase out the iconic jeepney in favor of ecofriendly buses. Jeepneys encapsulate the Filipino talent for do-ityourself innovation. Originally derived from surplus U.S. army jeeps left behind after World War II, the vehicles are made in neighborhood garages and local factories using second-hand diesel engines from Japan and custom-made parts. They typically accommodate up to 16 passengers who must clamber in via an open back and sit shoulder-to-shoulder on two parallel benches. Jeepneys might lack air conditioning, glass windows, and safety features like seatbelts, but millions of Filipinos…

RAISING THE STAKES On a small, remote island in Botswana’s UNESCO-listed Okavango Delta, ecotourism operator Wilderness Safaris has completely reinvented Jao (wilderness-safaris.com; from US$1,262 per person, all-inclusive), a two-decadeold safari camp within a sprawling 60,000-hectare private conservation concession. Small-scale South African “adventure architecture” firm Silvio Rech + Lesley Carstens, which designed the original Jao in 1999, was once again enlisted to put its unique stamp on the property. Reused timber from the camp’s previous incarnation went into the rebuild, and Wilderness Safaris donated unused material to local villagers. Other eco-friendly touches include an in-house solar power plant with southern Africa’s largest lithium-ion battery bank, and high-tech evaporative coolers—placed in the five tented pool suites and two villas—that use a fraction of the energy of conventional air conditioning. What’s more, the…

FROM WOODCARVING to silverwork, weaving to ceramics, Bali’s artisan traditions stretch back centuries. And international creatives have been drawn to the island to build their businesses since at least the 1970s. That means the island’s shopping potential stretches far beyond the dubious antiques outside Ubud and the discounted accessories at the airport to hip new design talent, decadent jewelry, and top-notch homewares. Here’s where to find the perfect souvenir for yourself and your loved ones back home. BALI BOAT SHED The candy-colored beach huts that house this multibrand store are a Seminyak landmark. Inside lies resort wear heaven, with a focus on homegrown Bali brands—not to mention Bali Boat Shed’s own creations. Rail after rail of vibrant Hawaiian shirts and breezy board shorts will please the chaps, while elegant bikinis,…

Winner of a 1996 Emmy Award for its advancements in RF wireless technology—and the company behind the world’s first open headphones in 1968—Sennheiser has been at the forefront of its field for the past 50 years. Its premium MOMENTUM headphone range includes Bluetooth wireless versions that feature a lightweight design in stainless steel, genuine leather ear cups, and crystalclear sound thanks to cutting-edge noise cancellation technology. Using four microphones to monitor and block ambient noise, the MOMENTUM Wireless travel headset ensures an optimal listening experience in even the noisiest environments. Meanwhile, the PXC 550 Wireless is another smart companion for frequent travelers, delivering up to 30 hours of battery performance in a single charge. It comes designed with an earcup-mounted touch control panel and voice prompt system, and can automatically…

ANY NOTION THAT vernacular Korean architecture is underappreciated seems faintly ridiculous in Bukchon. On a sunny afternoon, the winding lanes of Seoul’s most famous district of hanok, or traditional wooden houses, are in danger of being overrun. Couples crowd timber doorways festooned with fading calligraphy or gleaming brass, and tour groups line up to pose against the backdrop that has inspired a million Instagram posts—a sea of delicately flared tile roofs cascading gently downhill toward the office towers of the city center. Indeed, Bukchon Hanok Village has grown so popular that the local government deploys marshals to remind noisy tourists that despite its toy-town appearance, this is a living, breathing residential area. For the inhabitants, the patterned stone walls that hide most of these lovely homes from view may not…

Valid through October, the Summer Reward deal at this Bill Bensley–designed property includes breakfast for two adults and two children under 12, as well as an additional perk. Single-night stays are matched with a credit of VND 1,000,000 (roughly US$43) that can be used across the resort’s dining venues, spa treatments, and extensive roster of recreational activities. Families staying two nights will receive double the amount, while VND 4,000,000 (US$172) will be dispensed to those bedding down for at least three nights (marriott.com). Hong Kong ROSEWOOD HONG KONG Planning to check in at Kowloon’s new waterfront landmark this year? Until December 30, the More Rosewood offer promises a free fourth night with every three consecutive paid nights, meaning it’s possible to stay eight and pay only six. If you’re looking…

What’s in a name? In the case of Vintry & Mercer, which debuted earlier this year on the doorstep of London’s financial district, the moniker references the hotel’s location near two ancient guild halls, ones founded to trade wine and fine textiles, respectively. Both enriched this historic quarter of the city in medieval times, just as they now inform the offerings at this smartly designed 92-room hotel within a stone’s throw of St. Paul’s Cathedral. Situated at the end of a narrow cobbled lane next to the church of St. James Garlickhythe—another Christopher Wren landmark—Vintry & Mercer brings to the neighborhood the same sort of panache (courtesy of the same design firm) that earned accolades for its seven-year sister property in South Kensington, The Ampersand. Here, the plush contemporary look…

It’s barely noon on a Sunday, and there’s standing room only at Felons. Within months of opening, Brisbane’s newest brewery, located in the city’s newest entertainment precinct, has become a microcosm of the Queensland capital, with groups of scantily clad millennials sipping craft beers and cocktails, multigenerational families eating pizza and dancing to a duo singing pop covers, couples in activewear who see no shame in ending their weekend walk with some wine, and solo travelers (like me) perched on waterside stools. Who needs conversation when the people-watching is this good? Set on a tight bend of the Brisbane River, Felons Brewing Co. (felonsbrewingco.com.au) is among a handful of cool new restaurants and bars populating Howard Smith Wharves (howardsmithwharves.com), a circa-1930s port facility that has recently emerged from a US$140…

A remote Portuguese outpost marooned in the North Atlantic, roughly 700 kilometers off the Moroccan coast, Madeira rewards those who brave the hair-raising approach at its cliff-top airport with a dizzying variety of volcanic landscapes to explore, stately Baroque churches, and, for football fans, a museum dedicated to native son Cristiano Ronaldo. The mild climate and fertile soil make this island an agricultural wonderland; grapes grown here are harnessed in Madeira’s namesake fortified wine. Today, local vinho undergoes a unique oxidation process to mimic the long voyages that transformed the taste of vintages shipped out in centuries past. Oenophiles can get a closer look at traditional production methods and even tread grapes at the Madeira Wine Festival (visitmadeira.pt), an annual jamboree held during the harvest. This year, the event runs…

WHAT TO EXPLORE Admire the 40-meter-high Rain Vortex, Jewel’s centerpiece and the tallest indoor waterfall in the world, from Level 4’s Lobby H, where the afternoon sun creates a rainbow at its base. For another perspective on the Forest Valley, descend to the Level 2 Viewing Deck. Instead of taking the elevators, take a relaxing walk down the East Trail through the greenery, down to the base of Rain Vortex. WHERE TO PLAY On Level 5, Canopy Park features the Topiary Walk, whose floral displays and bushes are shaped like animals, as well as a clutch of newly opened attractions. Bounce along the Sky Nets, wander the Hedge Maze, let out your inner child at Discovery Slides, and make sure you cross the glass-bottom Canopy Bridge, where you can get…

Perched dramatically on a cliff top on Bali’s scenic Bukit Peninsula, between two idyllic beaches, Radisson Blu Bali Uluwatu makes the most of its spectacular setting. It is also tantalizingly close to some of the biggest attractions on the island, as well as its best social hubs and most revered surf spots. Contemporary guest quarters at this low-rise resort embrace Balinese style through the locally inspired artwork and architecture. Its 111 spacious, 58-squaremeter deluxe rooms all feature a private balcony, while 14 upstairs suites are each crowned with a rooftop terrace overlooking the pool or ocean. Beyond their rooms, guests can luxuriate in a myriad of communal spaces: an outdoor pool surrounded by sun loungers and cabanas, the tranquil Spa ESC with seven private treatment rooms, along with a state-of-the-art…

At the corner of Campbell and Collins streets in central Hobart, the building taking shape seems like any other urban construction site. But this US$70 million project, called The Hedberg, has global ambitions. A joint endeavor between state and federal authorities and the University of Tasmania (UTAS), it will put this city’s performing arts on the world stage when it opens early next year, housing a new campus for the university’s Conservatorium of Music, performance spaces of varying dimension and scope loaded with hi-tech wizardry, and a full recording studio. The facility will also encompass the adjacent Theatre Royal, an 1837 landmark that is the oldest working theater in Australia. It’s an ambitious undertaking for a city of 200,000 stationed at the cusp of a continent. “The Hedberg will do…

1 Marvel at the skyline and its rugged coastal setting from a Chinese junk. It may come as a surprise given the iconic status of these traditional boats, but precious few junks remain in Hong Kong waters. One example is Aqua Luna (aqualuna.com.hk), a purpose-built leisure craft often seen on Victoria Harbour. Aside from 45-minute evening cruises that pick up passengers in Central and Tsim Sha Tsui, journeys aboard the Aqua Luna include a 90-minute voyage, run four times a week, to explore Hong Kong Island’s wilder south side. The excursion includes two hours of free time in the beachside town of Stanley. A quicker, more rustic alternative is the 15-minute harbor tour aboard Duk Ling (dukling.com.hk), a 64-year-old vessel billed as the last original three-mast sailing junk in the…