Innholdsfortegnelse for Jun/Jul 2019 i DestinAsian

Perhaps you have seen pictures of Colombo’s Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque somewhere on Instagram: its candy-colored facade painted in a dazzling array of red and white stripes, as though dreamed up in an episode of unrestrained, childlike joy. The much-loved landmark would have graced one of our feature stories this issue—a beautifully shot and heartfelt tribute to the multi-ethnic, multi-religious nature of Sri Lanka’s commercial capital and its idyllic surroundings. But then tragedy struck on Easter Sunday, and, after much deliberation, we decided not to run the story. Doing so would have been grossly inappropriate given the new circumstances. Compounding my own shock and disbelief was the unmistakable feeling that we’ve all been here before. In recent years, we’ve witnessed the same horrors unfold in Paris, Mumbai, London, and Bali. The…

SPY GAMES Much like a rebooted James Bond, the new International Spy Museum (spymuseum.org) in Washington, D.C. presents a more sinewy, of-the-moment take on its previous incarnation, which first opened in 2002 across the street from the National Portrait Gallery. Now located south of the National Mall in a trapezoidal glass-and-steel building by Rogers Stirk Harbour & Partners—the British architecture firm responsible for London’s sloping Leadenhall Building (dubbed the Cheesegrater) and Terminal 5 at Heathrow Airport—the US$162 million museum is twice the size of the original, providing a more in-depth introduction to the world of espionage. Interactive experiences and original short films are sprinkled throughout the galleries, with new exhibits delving deeper into the technology and analysis used in spycraft. Nor does the museum shy away from controversial topics such…

When the 16th-century Dutch explorer William Barentsz first sighted the polar archipelago of Svalbard while attempting to find a northern sea route to Asia, he christened it Spitsbergen, or “pointed mountains.” That name is now reserved for its largest island—more than 700 kilometers off the Norwegian mainland—where the former coal-mining town of Longyearbyen lays claim to the northernmost full-service hotel in the world. While tourists arrive throughout the year, Spitsbergen’s natural wonders are best experienced in the summer months. Here, deep inside the Arctic Circle, the midnight sun means that guided excursions into the tundra can stretch up to 10 hours. Another plus? Retreating seasonal ice opens the way for voyages around the fjords in search of walruses, prolific birdlife, and—most enticing of all—polar bears on the hunt for prey.…

THE WRITE TOUCH While a pen is just a pen to some, those in the know rave about the writing instruments by YStudio, a Taiwanese creator of high-end stationery and desktop accessories. The brand’s sleek, understated brass and copper pens are the result of a production process involving close collaboration with small-scale factories around the island. Intended to last a lifetime, the hexagonal barrels will oxidize and develop a patina after frequent use, ensuring that each piece is unique to its user (ystudiostyle.com). POT LUCK Taiwan’s obsession with specialty coffee and keen eye for design come together in this sleek creation by multidisciplinary designer Shikai Tseng. Created in partnership with JIA Inc., a leading Taiwanese kitchenware brand, the Hand Drip Coffee Set is made from bamboo, glass, and ceramic material,…

Enveloped by the terraced World Heritage vineyards of Lavaux and with a giant fork sculpture at its heart, Vevey’s raison d’être is immediately obvious. Food and wine are taken seriously in this tiny Swiss town, reclining on Lake Geneva’s northern shores overlooking the Alps. And both are celebrated with bacchanalian fanfare at the Fête des Vignerons (July 18–August 11; fetedesvignerons.ch). Held only every 20 to 25 years—the last edition was two decades ago—this huge grapegrowers’ festival is expected to swell Vevey’s population from 18,000 to more than 400,000, including some 5,500 local artisans, actors, and volunteers participating in 20 wine-themed performances. One of the world’s largest wine carnivals, the Fête is also among the oldest, founded in 1797 by the Confrérie des Vignerons, or Brotherhood of Winegrowers, to promote the…

Singapore’s most celebrated retail precinct may have its share of fashion giants, but those looking for something unique should head to its newest mall. Open daily from 10:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Design Orchard is no ordinary retail space as it focuses exclusively on local talent. Shoppers can browse through a curated mix of more than 60 established and up-and-coming brands, and join a calendar of workshops led by Singaporean designers and artists. Operated by homegrown retailer Naiise, Design Orchard aims to be a platform for emerging creative talents to reach out to both locals and tourists alike. State-of-the-art technology here includes interactive mirrors and tables with built-in touch screens, to allow visitors to scroll through the myriad products on display. Female shoppers in particular will be spoilt for choice.…

While hotel rooms in the Lion City can be cramped and inflexible, Frasers Hospitality’s child- and pet-friendly serviced residences offer a welcome alternative. These three serviced residences are located within walking distance to Orchard Road and in close proximity to the CBD. Fraser Place Robertson Walk features 164 one- to three-bedroom units in Robertson Quay, close to a surfeit of alfresco dining venues, cafés, and specialty shops. Residents at Fraser Suites Singapore can make use of communal facilities including an all-day dining venue, a 24-hour gym, and an outdoor pool. Meanwhile, Fraser Residence Orchard has spacious studios to four-bedroom units with a full suite of high-end appliances. Booking directly ensures access to a range of special discounts such as the Super Deal promotion, which knocks up to 30 percent off…

As an American who has lived on-and-off in Bangkok the past three years, I’m sometimes struck by how much of Thailand I haven’t yet seen. So when I recently got the chance to embark on a nine-day trip through Isan, that vast northeastern region overlooked by most foreign visitors, there was no way I could turn it down. The plan? After an hourlong domestic flight from Bangkok’s Don Mueang Airport to Buriram, I would hail a taxi straight to Nang Rong, a small town close to Phanom Rung Historical Park, and spend two nights there to check out the Phanom Rung Festival. Then it was onto the city of Surin for another three nights, followed by two destinations in the nearby province of Nakhon Ratchasima. The first would be Phimai,…

A STAR IS REBORN It has been seven years since the closure and demolition of Kuala Lumpur’s beloved Hotel Equatorial, once a byword for ’70s glamour. Now, a new, rebranded incarnation stands in the same prime location on Jalan Sultan Ismail—EQ, a 52-story property with a modern and sophisticated persona. As much of a landmark as its predecessor, the building is adorned with a unique mosaic of steel strips against glass that also serves as an energy-saving feature. Inside, there are 440 rooms and suites alongside a host of business and leisure facilities, including Sanctum, a luxurious spa and wellness center set 29 stories above street level. Fans of the old Hotel Equatorial’s Kampachi will be pleased to know that the award-winning Japanese restaurant has made a comeback, though there…

/Global/ BANYAN TREE HOTELS & RESORTS Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, Singapore-based Banyan Tree has rolled out an unmissable offer throughout its 39 hotels and resorts worldwide. Guests bedding down for at least two nights before December 20 will receive 25 percent off best available rates, all food and drinks, spa treatments, and retail products; the package also includes a special anniversary cocktail, The Botanical, plus one complimentary “exceptional experience” chosen from a range of immersive activities tailored to each property. All four of the group’s brands—Banyan Tree, Angsana, Cassia, and Dhawa—are participating (banyantree.com). Hong Kong HOTEL PURPLE HONG KONG Planning a last-minute city break to the Fragrant Harbor this summer? You can still take advantage of the opening promotion at this 83-room Citadines Apart’hotel property in the Tin…

Bali-based pastry chef extraordinaire Will Goldfarb is having a moment. His cookbook, Room for Dessert, an intoxicating blend of sugar porn and pop culture, was published by Phaidon last year. He recently starred in an episode of Netflix’s culinary docu-series Chef’s Table. And, riding high on that recognition, he has just reinvented and relaunched his Ubud venue. “If you must expand, don’t build: Plant,” Goldfarb advises. True to those words, the new sustainable incarnation of Room 4 Dessert features two separate gardens, one a permaculture nursery where his young, talented team grow ingredients in raised beds for culinary experiments—think aloe vera, turmeric, rosella, and mangosteen. In the other, a more decorative after-dinner space, guests savor petit-fours. “Bali is a paradise for a pastry chef as the pastry larder is all…

1/Italy VENICE BIENNALE Titled “May You Live in Interesting Times” after the supposed Chinese proverb, the 58th edition of the art world’s original biennale has a particular focus on the challenges of living in our “post-truth” era. A few must-sees include the Golden Lion–winning Lithuanian Pavilion, a dystopian indoor beach where singers perform an hour-long opera on climate change; Laure Prouvost’s epic ode to the sea in the French pavilion; Icelandic artist Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir’s large-scale installation of multicolored synthetic hair; and superb first-time contributions by India and Ghana. Until November 24; labiennale.org 2/Japan REBORN-ART FESTIVAL Taking place on the Oshika Peninsula and nearby Ishinomaki—one of the cities most badly affected by the 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami—the Reborn-Art Festival was launched in 2017 to showcase the region’s creative scene. The…

Forget about trying to reach premium or elite status—Singapore-based Millennium Hotels and Resorts has ditched its old three-tiered guest-rewards program in favor of a streamlined, single-tier scheme called My Millennium. Together with a new app, it offers a simpler and more flexible way for members to maximize and redeem their benefits across the group’s entire portfolio of properties worldwide. Here’s how it works. Under the new program, every dollar that a My Millennium member spends on a hotel room (exclusive of taxes) earns 10 “My Points.” And double points will be awarded on every block of 10 nights, a generous incentive that enables guests to earn twice as much without navigating the complications of a tier-level program. Thus, if a member books a stay of 10 “qualified” (ie. non-promotional) nights…

HOW DID THE LOVE IS PROJECT BEGIN? In 2012, I left a career in corporate fashion with a mission of working with artisans around the world to create products and connect them to brands for market access. I did this for a few years before launching the Love Is Project [loveisproject.co] as a standalone brand in 2017. My “aha!” moment came when visiting a group of Maasai craftswomen in the Ngong Hills of Kenya. Inspired by the bold colors used by their tribe, I designed a simple bracelet featuring the word “love” in traditional Maasai beadwork. I had the equally simple goal of helping to create jobs for their community. With that bracelet in hand, I asked two strangers on a flight to Russia what love meant to them. I then…

CONSTANCE HALAVELI, MALDIVES Packing Essential: Yoga pants Synchronize the rhythm of your hearts by practicing the asana. At Constance Halaveli, couple’s yoga sessions come with worldclass instructors and breathtaking views to help you embrace the Zen. CONSTANCE PRINCE MAURICE, MAURITIUS Packing essential: A book, his and hers. Take two of the same book and share the story together. Bring your new reads down to the beach and follow up with a couple’s massage at our U Spa by Constance. Constance Prince Maurice has just been nominated first in the Top 25 Best Hotels in Africa at TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice Awards 2019. CONSTANCE AIYANA, PEMBA, ZANZIBAR Packing essential: Underwater camera Bring your snorkels and get ready to explore the vibrant reefs of Pemba. Trained diving instructors will be on hand to…

IT IS NOT TOO MUCH of a hyperbole to say that Singapore’s skyline morphs at an astonishing speed. Especially as, quite unexpectedly, the island-state holds the world’s largest collection of architecture by Pritzker Prize laureates and starchitects. Blink and almost overnight, a new building by Thomas Heatherwick, Ole Scheeren, Norman Foster, Moshe Safdie, or Daniel Libeskind has sprung up alongside masterpieces by Skidmore, Owings & Merrill, Kohn Pedersen Fox, Zaha Hadid, KenzoTange, Kevin Roche, Paul Rudolph, I.M. Pei, and Richard Meier. But beneath all that 21st-century gloss and tent-pole names, an older, perhaps grander, Singapore still pulses. That built heritage is what makes Singapore such a pleasure for flâneurs, especially in the early morning and late afternoons when the tropical sun is more forgiving. For some, an ideal walking tour…

Two dolphins glide, at speed, through the crystalline water, making a beeline for the dive boat we’re on. “Our escort has arrived!” shouts our skipper, Dieter Gerhard, as the pair flank the bow. Other dolphins leap from the lagoon around us. It’s a postcard-perfect day: a cerulean sky stretches cloudless above us as we hurtle across an otherwise still ocean. And there’s not another boat in sight. Our vessel isn’t much larger than a dinghy, and the water is so clear I can’t resist reaching out to the dolphin closest to me. But our playful friend peels off as we approach our snorkel site near Direction Island. Gerhard, who runs a diving operation called Cocos Dive, calls it the “Bottle Dump.” We slip into the water, joining a trio of…

A holiday in Scotland is always something of a gamble when it comes to the weather. Mine seemed to be paying off. As my train from London glided serenely into Glasgow Central station on a pleasant May afternoon, I spotted a fair number of locals lolling on the grassy banks of the River Clyde in shorts and T-shirts, replenishing their vitamin D levels after the dreich days of winter. Late spring is my favorite season here, not least because the days are so long this far north. Sunrise comes around four in the morning and you can still be outside easily reading a book at 10:30 in the evening. In the glorious Scottish countryside, even a damp, misty day adds a magical allure to the glens, forests, and mountains. And…

WHEN ITALIAN CHEF MARCO BERTINI first arrived in the sleepy fishing village of Labuan Bajo nine years ago, the 12-year veteran of Bali’s dining scene saw a golden opportunity. “At the time,” he recalls, “Labuan Bajo was nothing like it is now. The roads weren’t properly paved, and the town was much smaller. I liked how it was not like Bali. Not that there is anything wrong with Bali, but it was different. I thought it was the right time and place to try something new.” To some observers, the less-heralded Indonesian island of Flores might have seemed like a strange place to put down roots and open a restaurant. But Marco’s gamble ultimately paid off. Brisk business at Made In Italy, the venue he launched in 2011, is indicative…

FROM THE BEACH SHACK RESTAURANT AT ALILA VILLAS KOH RUSSEY, the view out front generates a pleasingly sedative effect. Bookended by forested headlands, a kilometer-long sweep of honey-colored sand populated with pine, sea-almond, coconut, and ironwood trees cedes to the jade waters of the Gulf of Thailand. It’s a hallmark image of a resort that, along with the nearby Six Senses Krabey Island, has brought tasteful luxury to a part of Cambodia that can sometimes seem to be headed in the opposite direction. Foreigners have long been drawn to the country’s compact south coast. Near the border with Vietnam, the town of Kep emerged as a seafront sanctuary for French administrators during the early 1900s, earning it the sobriquets of Kep-Sur-Mer and the St.-Tropez of Indochina. In the 1960s, following…

War cries and chants, towering headdresses and thumping lizard-skin drums—the Mount Hagen Cultural Show is nothing if not a spectacle. Held every August in the Western Highlands of Papua New Guinea, this two-day sing-sing (large-scale song and dance festival) showcases the cultural diversity of tribal groups from across the country, including the so-called “skeleton warriors” of the Bugamo tribe and Huli “wigmen” who adorn themselves with feathered hair-grown wigs and yellow face paint. It may not be as old or as large as September’s Goroka Show in the Eastern Highlands, but it’s still a sight to behold, and this year’s gathering, held at a newly upgraded showground, promises to be bigger and better than ever. Tickets and trips can be arranged through Trans Niugini Tours (pngtours.com).…

HOTEL VILA LUMBUNG BALI Make the most of your tropical-island vacation with extra perks at Hotel Vila Lumbung, a boutique Bali property that brings the serenity of Ubud to the heart of bustling Seminyak. Until this August, using the “Happiness” promo code while booking direct for stays up to June 2020 will get you the lowest room rates as well as special privileges including free shuttle service to Seminyak Square mall and Petitenget Beach, spa vouchers, and a 20 percent discount on laundry, spa products, as well as food and beverages. Set around a split-level pool that features a waterfall and grotto, Vila Lumbung’s 70 rooms and villas bring together modern comforts and local touches in spacious lodgings filled with natural light. Villas are styled after traditional rice barns and…

Moshe Safdie, the revered Israeli-Canadian architect who gave the Singapore skyline one of its most-photographed icons, Marina Bay Sands, has once again left his imprint on the Lion City. A former parking lot between three passenger terminals at Changi Airport is now the five-story Jewel (changiairport.com), a landmark that unites Singapore’s decades-long greening effort with two of its national pastimes: eating and shopping. Part botanical garden, part mall and entertainment complex, the facility brings these disparate parts together beneath a dome made up of more than 9,300 glass panels. DO Explore the terraced landscaped gardens of Forest Valley, where a series of waterfalls, walking paths, and quiet seating areas have been tucked amid 1,400 trees and more than 200 plant species. The main attraction here is Rain Vortex, an indoor…

BINTAN RESORTS OFFERS AN ABUNDANCE OF ACTIVITIES ON BOTH LAND AND WATER, WHILE SERVING AS THE IDYLLIC LOCATION FOR SEVERAL WORLD-CLASS SPORTING EVENTS THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. Spread across the lush northern shore of the Indonesian island of Bintan is a tropical paradise waiting to be explored. Get ready to be spoiled by the array of adventures that Bintan Resorts has to offer, all just a 60 minute high-speed catamaran ferry ride away from Singapore. Travelers arriving through Singapore can take a shuttle service from Changi Airport to Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal, while domestic flights to Tanjung Pinang, South Bintan, are available from Jakarta, Pekanbaru, or Matak. If you’re on the lookout for more excitement to spice up a relaxing beach holiday, Bintan has it all. Bintan Resorts offers an abundance…

With four locations in the heart of Singapore, Frasers Hospitality puts you within reach of major sights and the downtown area. Its child- and pet-friendly serviced residences offer convenience and flexibility in equal measure. Situated in the riverside precinct of Robertson Quay, Fraser Place Robertson Walk, Singapore offers a collection of 164 one- to three-bedroom serviced apartments. Residents will find plenty of alfresco dining venues, pubs, cafés, and specialty shops nearby, along with the lush grounds of Fort Canning Park. And for those wishing to go farther, a scheduled shuttle service brings guests to Singapore’s key business and shopping districts. Over in the prime residential area of River Valley, the 255 apartments at Fraser Suites Singapore enjoy easy access to the vibrant riverside corridor of Clarke Quay and Boat Quay,…

FRENCH POLYNESIA Artists and poets like Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel once called French Polynesia home, inspired by the archipelago’s 100-plus volcanic islands uniting pearls, powdery beaches, and opalesque lagoons. It’s easy to see what lured them here. With a warm, laid-back island culture and achingly beautiful scenery, this French overseas collective comprises five archipelagos (including the Society Islands, the most popular of which are highlighted below) and innumerable possibilities for romance and adventure. • Tahiti The largest of French Polynesia’s islands, turtle-shaped Tahiti is as appealing for its dramatic black stretches of sand as it is for its mountainous interior—a wild realm of mystical valleys, clear streams, and high waterfalls. SLEEP For unparalleled opulence, it’s hard to look past all-inclusive The Brando (thebrando.com; doubles from US$3,680). This upscale eco-resort…

WHEN BENJAMIN FLATT FOLLOWED HIS HEART to Noto 23 years ago, he didn’t expect that a fermented yet highly prized fish sauce made from squid innards would be one of the reasons he would stay. Hailing from a family of restaurateurs, the Australian chef had risen quickly through the ranks of some of the best kitchens in Sydney and was helming an Italian fine diner when he met Chikako Funashita, a beautiful and bright Japanese teacher living with his family as a homestay guest. They soon fell in love, and he asked her to marry him. But first, Flatt needed the approval of her father and mother. So in 1996 the young couple packed up their things and moved to her hometown, a pretty little fishing hamlet called Hanami. Part…