Innholdsfortegnelse for Apr/May 2019 i DestinAsian

It is somewhat surreal to be in London as last-minute negotiations over Brexit take place between Prime Minister Theresa May and her European counterparts in Brussels. Life goes on as normal and yet few can deny the underlying sense of uncertainty or the quiet alarm many people have at the prospect that their country just might crash out of the EU with no deal in place. I bring this up because our cover story this issue by Jason Overdorf, on the growing movement to conserve Kolkata’s colonial-era architecture, reminds me just how powerful the U.K. was at the peak of its imperial might, and how different its global standing is now. Over in Cambodia, our editor-in-chief Christopher P. Hill heads to Siem Reap and the jungles of the Cardamom Mountains…

KOWLOON REJUVENATION Hong Kong–bound travelers now have two more reasons to spend time in Kowloon. Once an unsightly promenade bereft of greenery and places to sit, the Avenue of Stars along Victoria Harbour recently reopened after a much-needed facelift. Owner New World Development enlisted landscape architect James Corner—the man behind New York’s High Line—for the revamp, which has incorporated celebrity handprints into wave-shaped handrails by the water, doubled the seating capacity, and added eight times more greenery than before. One MTR stop away, the first landmark to make its debut in the West Kowloon Cultural District is the Xiqu Centre (westkowloon.hk), an eight-story complex dedicated to traditional Chinese opera. Canadian studio Revery Architecture and local firm Ronald Lu & Partners were inspired by the concept of qi, or “energy flow,”…

• RISE TO THE OCCASION In his riverside home outside Goa’s state capital Panjim, self-taught baker Sujit Sumitran makes artisanal sourdough using wild yeast, kneading and shaping the loaves over an eight-hour period before heating them to perfection in a coconut husk–fired oven. Sumitran’s daylong workshops are punctuated with breaks to devour his wife Sudha’s fabulous home cooking, and it’s likely you will wipe up the last traces of prawn curry or Kerala-inspired vegetable stew with some freshly baked bread (fb.com/sudhaandsujitsumitran). • SPIN THE WHEEL Flanked by the snow-capped Dhauladhars and the thickly forested Sivalik Hills, the artists’ village of Andretta in the Himalayan foothills of Himachal Pradesh is a magnet for traveling potters. At Andretta Pottery, learn the basics of working with clay or hone your skills to the…

It was the sight of wild daffodils on an April stroll beside Ullswater—a ribbon-shaped glacial lake in England’s northwest corner—that inspired Romantic poet William Wordsworth to pen his most famous work in 1804. But golden blooms aren’t the only reason for making a beeline to the English Lake District come spring. April and May are typically the sunniest and driest months of the year, making this an ideal time to explore the U.K.’s second-oldest national park and newest UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hikes around its craggier hills (which include the highest mountain in England) are a must, as is a slow cruise aboard a Victorian steamer and meals showing off seasonal produce at the region’s notable fine-dining restaurants. And with nearby Carlisle Lake District Airport resuming passenger flights after a…

THE HIGH LIFE Two of Asia’s most-visited cities now possess an ultra-luxe Rosewood hotel, both housed in skyscrapers by American architecture firm Kohn Pedersen Fox. Taking up 43 floors of a glassy 65-story tower on the Kowloon waterfront, Rosewood Hong Kong (852/3891-8888; rosewoodhotels.com; doubles from $548) offers views of the Hong Kong Island skyline from the majority of its 413 rooms and suites. The plush interiors and outdoor spaces are courtesy of New York–based designer Tony Chi, who created “salons” on each guest-room floor adorned with objets reflecting the local history. Downstairs, no less than eight restaurants and lounges dish up everything from elevated Hong Kong–style comfort food to Western fare and regional Cantonese cuisine from Shunde. What’s more, the first urban outpost of Asaya, Rosewood’s holistic wellness offering, will…

ABOVE AND BEYOND June 15–October 17; hk.science.museum Budding pilots and aviation enthusiasts of all ages will no doubt enjoy this high-tech exhibition at the Hong Kong Science Museum. Sponsored by Boeing, the showcase uses flight simulation and augmented reality to explain the forces behind flight. A sure-fire favorite for families is the “group flying experience” that uses motion-capture technology to turn people into a virtual flock of birds. KURIOS July 5–21; cirquedusoleil.com Let your imagination run wild beneath a gray-and-white big top beside Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands with KURIOS, an unmissable extravaganza from French-Canadian circus masters Cirque du Soleil. The story revolves around a late-19th century inventor whose curio cabinet transforms into a machine that defies the laws of time and space to completely reinvent the world around him. THE…

ALISHAN Walking through the misty, moss-draped cedar forests of Alishan, a range of high mountains near the geographic center of Taiwan, you’ll feel as though you’ve stepped into a fairy tale. The small-gauge Alishan Forest Railway (afrch.forest.gov.tw) has been running since 1912, when it first opened under Japanese rule. Although typhoon damage has rendered large sections unusable, you can still ride the rails from Chiayi to the halfway point at the mountain village of Fenqihu (connected by regular bus services to Alishan), and also several tourist lines within Alishan’s main scenic area. YILAN This county on Taiwan’s surf-beaten east coast has its share of attractions and unique stays. Just outside the hot-spring town of Jiaoxi—a popular weekend escape for Taipei residents—the five-star Hotel Royal Chiaohsi (hotelroyal.com.tw) has an open-air spa…

It’s just another Sunday morning at NuArt Sculpture Park, and the creativity unfolding outdoors here immediately catches my eye. I watch, enraptured, as a group of dancers in sarongs swirl across the floor of a breezy pavilion to the strains of Balinese gamelan. Off in the distance, beyond a copper humpback whale rising out of the manicured lawns, visitors shape figurines from balls of clay at low wooden tables set up around a bubbling fountain. Given its setting beside a wooded ravine, I can see why the celebrated Balinese sculptor I Nyoman Nuarta chose this three-hectare site to build his gallery and studio. The sea of concrete surrounding it, though, isn’t quite so appealing at first glance. Sprawling across a mountain basin in West Java’s Sundanese highlands, Bandung grapples with…

THAILAND If you’re seeking a quieter alternative to the crowded beach spots of Phuket’s west coast, Pullman Phuket Panwa Beach Resort ticks all the right boxes. Poised on the picturesque shores of Markham Bay in the southeast corner of the island, it promises absolute beachfront privacy, sweeping Andaman Sea views, and serious five-star comfort. Guest quarters comprise 182 rooms and suites, equipped with daybeds on every balcony, alongside 29 pool villas. Meanwhile, on-site bars and restaurants include Tamarind, which serves authentic Thai cuisine with a modern twist; the casual all-day diner Aqua for international fare in a colorful space featuring works by local artists; and the swim-up Edge Beach Club. The resort offers activities like giant chess, yoga and cooking classes, snorkeling, and ocean kayaking, but for deeper relaxation, take…

When it comes to resort-style stays in the Thai capital for business and leisure travelers alike, there’s no better choice than Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok. The tranquil hotel blends the Kempinski brand’s rich European heritage with traditional Thai hospitality to create a wholly memorable experience. Guests here bed down in 401 spacious rooms and suites, most of which feature a balcony with views onto the free-form swimming pools and extensive gardens at the heart of the property. Those staying in Cabana and Duplex Cabana rooms can even enjoy direct pool access from a private terrace. Meanwhile, the 80-square-meter Family Suites accommodate two adults and two children in an apartment-like setting, complete with a fully equipped kitchen and dining area. Downstairs, there’s plenty to keep gourmands satisfied. With a changing seasonal…

Getting There Between them, Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com) and subsidiary SilkAir (silkair.com) offer daily flights from Singapore to Kolkata. For travelers from Hong Kong, Cathay Dragon (cathaypacific.com) has the only direct service to the West Bengal capital, flying every day except Monday. Where to Stay The Oberoi Grand The grande dame of Kolkata hotels occupies a landmark neoclassical building that dates to the mid-1800s. 15 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd.; 91-33/2249-2323; oberoihotels.com; doubles from US$130. The Astor 15 Shakespeare Sarani; 91-33/2282-9950; astorkolkata.com; doubles from US$70. The Calcutta Bungalow 5 Radha Kanta Jeu St.; 91/98-3018-4030; calcuttabungalow.com; doubles from US$72. The Glenburn Penthouse This nine-suite bolthole overlooking the Victoria Memorial is not a heritage property per se, but it’s done up to look like one, with an exquisite collection of antique Bengal-colonial furniture and art.…

BUCKET LIST NAKAGAWA MOKKOUGEI Buckets might sound like prosaic items, but the fragrant cypresswood ki-oke crafted by third-generation cooper Shuji Nakagawa are anything but, with 700 years of carpentry tradition behind them. Nakagawa’s grandfather, a skilled woodworker, founded the family business in the 1960s and was later succeeded by Shuji’s father, Kiyotsugu Nakagawa, who in 2001 was named a “Living National Treasure of Japan.” While Nakagawa senior still oversees the main workshop in downtown Kyoto, his son works out of a studio in Otsu, some 10 kilometers to the east on the shores of Japan’s largest lake. The tools of his trade line the walls: crescent-shaped blades, mallets, and every imaginable shape and size of kanna—Japanese wood planes capable of shaving mere microns off of an uneven surface. Nakagawa makes…

MADAME FAN BAR AT THE NCO CLUB Located on level two of The NCO Club and an extension of Cantonese fine-dining venue Madame Fan – the first Singaporean venture for London-based restaurateur Alan Yau – the 40-seater Madame Fan Bar specializes in inventive, cross-cultural libations that tickle the taste buds of cocktail connoisseurs. Award-winning master mixologist Davide Boncimino makes the most of unconventional ingredients and house-made infusions to give familiar flavors a bold, oriental-inspired twist. Boncimino’s 13 signature craft cocktails include the (Not) Classic PBJ, which has become a firm favorite among Madame Fan patrons. (Not) Classic PBJ INGREDIENTS • 40 ml peanut butter fat–washed Glenfiddich 15 single malt whisky• 10 ml caramelized kumquat liqueur (available in select liquor shops)• 20 ml Rinomato americano bianco• 2.5 ml Amaro Montenegro• 3…

DOWNTOWN DIGS Having recently obtained a hotel license, Oakwood Premier OUE Singapore is now providing short-term visitors to the city-state a new place to rest their head in the central business district. Opened as a luxury serviced apartment in 2017, the property, which occupies the landmark OUE Downtown building (once the tallest high-rise in Singapore), features 268 residential-style accommodations done up in a crisp, contemporary style; larger units come with fully-equipped kitchens and washer/dryers. The Oakwood’s hotel license means guests are no longer required to book a minimum six-night stay, and to mark this milestone, special “staycation” rates from S$280++ per night are being offered until the end of June. Complete with late checkout and breakfast for two, the promotion is valid for studio rooms or one-bedroom apartments (with complimentary…

THE KAYON JUNGLE RESORT Managed by Pramana and located a 20-minute drive outside Ubud in Bali’s south-central highlands, The Kayon Jungle Resort affords its guests a true sense of privacy with just 38 suites and villas. Each one has been decked out in bespoke furnishings and hand-carved embellishments, and vacationers will find plenty to keep them occupied on the eye-catching property, which was designed by young Balinese architect Nengah Sarjana. At Wanna Jungle Pool and Bar, a three-tiered infinity pool inspired by the famous Tegallalang rice terraces is the perfect place to soak up dramatic views over the Oos River valley. Meanwhile, Kepitu restaurant serves breakfast and a semi-fine dining experience after dark, with international fare complemented by a selection of local favorites; patrons will also enjoy the weekly Balinese…

Set amid lush tropical greenery at the Garden Wing of Shangri-La Hotel, Singapore, the nine-decade-old Dutch Pavilion played host to DestinAsian magazine’s Readers’ Choice Awards luncheon on February 14. Hoteliers, tourism officials, and others from across the travel industry congregated at the heritage venue for the 14th edition of the annual affair. After a cocktail reception, publisher Ronald Liem took to the podium for a welcome speech, and guests enjoyed a three-course meal that featured contemporary Italian fare with a subtle Asian twist. This year, black Georg Jensen award vases were given out to winners in 31 categories ranging from destinations and airlines to spas and boutique hotels.…

“Of course, I knew about the atomic bomb that was dropped on Hiroshima almost 75 years ago,” says Seattle-based illustrator Eleanor Doughty of her visit to the southern Japanese city last September. “But only as I started wandering around did I begin to really comprehend that every inch of the place had been destroyed—and to appreciate the tenacity it must have taken for people to come back to rebuild Hiroshima into the quiet, charming riverside city it is today, full of street trolleys and cyclists.” One partially rebuilt site is Hiroshima Castle, a 16th-century landmark whose outer gate, accessed via a gently arched footbridge that spans a koi-filled moat, is depicted here. “As you can see from the raindrops in the water, it was a wet day, but I managed…

/Malaysia/ FOUR SEASONS HOTEL KUALA LUMPUR Through its Stay Longer deal, this high-rise property a few paces from the Petronas Twin Towers is giving guests a complimentary third night for every two consecutive paid nights until the end of this year. And since there is no restriction on the maximum length of stay, it is possible to reserve the offer back-to-back, allowing for six-night city breaks at the price of four. Those opting for shorter sojourns in Kuala Lumpur through June can book the Four Seasons’ introductory promotion, which entails 15 percent off room rates and the same discount for all dining venues and spa treatments, along with daily breakfast for two (fourseasons.com). Singapore SIX SENSES MAXWELL The opening offer at the second Six Senses property in Singapore’s Chinatown district…

1/United Arab Emirates QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT BY ANANTARA Lying 90 minutes down the road from Abu Dhabi, the edge of the Empty Quarter is far more accessible than most people realize. Here, Qasr Al Sarab’s sprawling make-believe citadel—replete with turrets, courtyards, and crenellated rooflines—houses 154 rooms and 52 pool villas. There’s also an antiques-strewn library as well as a rooftop lounge, while a Moroccan hammam and locally inspired spa treatments beckon after an exploration of the surrounding landscape by camel or four-by-four. anantara.com; doubles from US$572 2/Morocco DAR AHLAM French hotelier Thierry Teyssier’s “House of Dreams” certainly lives up to its name. Occupying a 19th-century kasbah (fortress) in Skoura Oasis, which lies between the Middle and High Atlas Mountains, Dar Ahlam upends the traditional five-star hotel stay by…

Given its low-slung appearance and the lush foliage that almost hides it from view, Design Orchard (designorchard.sg) makes an unusual addition to the Lion City’s premier shopping belt. Local architecture firm WOHA was tasked with creating a retail and incubation space to nurture and showcase Singaporean design talent, and true to form, the studio has put its own stamp on the project. Look beyond the three-story mall’s glass frontage and you’ll spot raw concrete walls softened by greenery and playful sequences of circular windows. By the entrance, a wide staircase leads to a verdant, umbrella-festooned amphitheater on the rooftop, blissfully removed from the din of traffic on Orchard Road. But it’s the handpicked selection of 61 Singaporean brands downstairs that remains the biggest draw: products run the gamut from small-batch…

Ferrocarriles de vía estrecha—Is it just me, or does everything sound better in Spanish? “Narrow-gauge railways” doesn’t have nearly the same ring to it. Call them what you will, northern Spain has a network of these historic tracks, their rails spaced just a meter apart due to the mountainous terrain. One of the region’s oldest lines, La Robla, is also the longest stretch of narrow-gauge railway in Western Europe; it was built in the late 19th century to transport coal from León and Palencia to the blast furnaces of Bilbao. These days, though, instead of freight, the route carries tourists. Or should I say turistas? Yep, that sounds better too. I had joined El Transcantábrico Clásico at León as the train embarked on its seven-night journey to the pilgrimage town…

MY ARRIVAL AT SHINTA MANI WILD, a new tented camp in the forests of southern Cambodia, requires a leap of faith—quite literally. Still wobbly from the three-hour drive from Phnom Penh International Airport, I’m led up 100 knee-shaking steps to the top of a steel-girdered tower, strapped into a harness, and invited to step into the abyss, trusting that the zip line will carry me all 380 meters to the landing platform in the hazy green distance. It almost does. Alas, my exhilarating soar over the forest canopy comes to a slow, shameful stop just short of the mark, leaving me dangling in mid-air and obliging one of the waiting crew to pull himself across the cable to collect me. (“The wind is perhaps not right,” he suggests kindly, saying…

Something is brewing in Rotterdam, and it’s not just the local coffee roasters or beer makers. There is an unbridled sense of creativity manifesting itself in all corners of town. Ravaged by German bombers during World War II, this resilient port city has been likened to Berlin for its ascendant, avant-garde vibe. It isn’t solely because Rotterdam is home to a high-profile film festival, Rem Koolhaas’ heavyweight design firm OMA, and an impressive lineup of architectural showpieces like the yellow Cube Houses and horseshoe-shaped Markthal—its denizens are breathing new life into a range of unlikely venues from office blocks and warehouses to a decommissioned swimming pool. • WHERE TO EAT On Rotterdam’s east side, Het Industriegebouw is a brick-and-concrete monument to the postwar building boom. A more recent transformation following…

Established in 2010 to help revive struggling island communities in Japan’s Seto Inland Sea, the Setouchi Triennale already has tongues wagging ahead of its upcoming fourth edition. The festival spans three sessions this spring, summer, and autumn, encompassing 200 site-specific installations (around half of which are permanent) spread across a dozen islands as well as the ports of Takamatsu and Uno. That comes on top of perennial draws like the Benesse Art Site on much-photographed Naoshima and the neighboring isles of Teshima and Inujima. Teshima-bound visitors should not miss prominent Swiss artist Pipilotti Rist’s video installation tucked inside a traditional storehouse. Similarly, Argentinian conceptual master Leandro Ehrlich (who has twice represented his home country at the Venice Biennale) is bringing a dose of whimsy to Megijima via a video sculpture…

• WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE LIVE MUSIC VENUES IN L.A.? The Wiltern—the interiors are so ornate and over the top. I’ve played there a couple of times, and you get this great energy from the audience. There’s also The Theater at Ace Hotel and a cool little bar called The Echo. • WHERE WOULD YOU RECOMMEND FOR ART? Definitely MOCA [The Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles]. You can go back time and again, and you’ll always find something different. My friends and I like to visit with our headphones on, immersing ourselves in the artworks. A big part of my upcoming album cycle will be to use this kind of space for shows—I’m interested in changing the voyeuristic structure of performances and having more interaction with the audience. •…

OUT OF THIS WORLD This year, a wave of new rides are coming to Disney theme parks in Asia and the United States. Hong Kong Disneyland has just unveiled its second Marvel-themed attraction, Ant-Man and The Wasp: Nano Battle! (hongkongdisneyland.com), where kids join the titular superheroes to fight off a swarm of virtual bots. Meanwhile in Japan, Tokyo DisneySea is set to open Soaring: Fantastic Flight (tokyodisneyresort.jp) on July 23. This flight motion simulator will take thrill-seekers on a five-minute romp across the globe, visiting iconic landmarks such as the Great Wall of China, the Pyramids of Giza, and the Taj Mahal, with the addition of breezes and scents to match every scene. Still bigger developments are happening in the U.S., as visitors will soon get to live out their…

Center of Attention Home to the former kingdoms of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya as well as to the bustle of present-day Bangkok, central Thailand is also where you’ll find royal Thai cuisine, a culinary tradition known for its refined use of ingredients and techniques. Expect such dishes to be carefully spiced and ornately prepared and presented. The low, flat central region also encompasses the country’s wet rice-growing plains, with many recipes designed to be paired with non-glutinous jasmine rice. It’s for this reason that some of central Thailand’s most applauded dishes are those that we most commonly see served at Thai restaurants around the world. The three most popular curries from central Thailand have a coconut-milk base and include green curry, usually made with seafood or chicken; a hot red curry…

The next cruise season for Chile-based Australis (australis.com) begins in September and runs until the beginning of April. The five-day “Fjords of Tierra del Fuego” itinerary described in this story navigates the Chilean coast between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia, Argentina, with rates from US$1,565 per person. Punta Arenas is four hours by plane from Santiago, a route plied multiple times a day by LATAM Airlines (latam.com). Be sure to book a window seat, as the flight passes over the third largest ice cap in the world. Daily flights between Ushuaia and the Chilean capital on Aerolíneas Argentinas (aerolineas.com.ar) are via Buenos Aires.…

Four Seasons Hotel Singapore, 190 Orchard Boulevard, Singapore; 65/6734-1110; fourseasons.com/singapore ONE-NINETY AT FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SINGAPORE Wholesome Provençal cuisine with an Asian twist is a mainstay at the Four Seasons Hotel Singapore’s popular all-day restaurant One-Ninety. Here, diners can indulge in a signature Seasonal Seafood Tower while watching the chefs cook ocean-fresh seafood and prime cuts of meat over apple-wood-fire grills in the open kitchen. Snapper Bouillabaisse with Spicy Daikon and Lemongrass INGREDIENTS • 120g snapper fillet• 100g snapper, diced• 50g olive oil• 50g onion, diced• 50g fennel, diced• 50g garlic, chopped• 400g roma tomato• 30g tomato puree• 20g thyme• 3 bay leaves• 70g white wine• 40 ml Pernod Anise/Ricard Pastis• 400 ml fish stock• 3g salt• 6g saffron• 120g lemongrass• 30g chili sauce• 30g daikon, diced• 40g mussels• 40g…