Innholdsfortegnelse for Feb/Mar 2019 i DestinAsian

As someone who has a keen interest in Hollywood A-listers and the emerging talent of younger actors, I’m always looking forward to watching the Oscars. But there’s another event in February that I love: the annual luncheon at which we hand out our Readers’ Choice Awards. A fair number of hotels, airlines, and candidates in other categories have been longstanding winners; it reflects their consistently high standards and perhaps the loyalty of our readers to those brands and properties. Of course, there are some new contenders too that have turned into overnight favorites. We initially began DestinAsian in 2001 to capture the diversity and richness found in our backyard, and although we’ve since broadened its scope so that Europe, the Americas, and Africa are also represented, I’m happy to say…

It’s close to midnight on a weekday, and San Sebastián’s Parte Vieja—or Old Town—is heaving. Crowds spill out onto the streets, some gathered around communal benches and tables, others sitting on the steps of the baroque Santa María church. It could well be a post-football gathering, except that everyone here tonight is eating, drinking, and being entirely sociable. Snappy waiters deliver small plates and pour wine; there’s friendly jostling to get to the bar; and live music and loud banter in Basque—the preferred language in this northern Spanish city—fill the air. Eli Susperregui is our host for this evening’s txikiteo, a tradition of bar-hopping with a drink and a bite to eat at each venue. At Atari Gastroteka (fb.com/atarigastroteka), our penultimate stop on this tastebud-awakening tour of San Sebastián’s best…

When the late industrialist Chen Din-hwa founded Nan Fung Textiles in 1954—setting up a mill in the Tsuen Wan manufacturing district on what was then the outskirts of Hong Kong—he could not have imagined that his small company would become the territory’s biggest producer of cotton yarn, much less evolve into a real estate giant. Nor could he have foreseen how his successors would eventually transform the old factory buildings into an impressive creative hub dubbed The Mills (themills.com.hk) a decade after its closure. The US$89 million overhaul was the brainchild of Vanessa Cheung, a Harvard-trained landscape architect, head of Nan Fung’s Hong Kong property division, and granddaughter to Chen. She tasked chief designer Ray Zee, who was once an assistant professor of architecture at the University of Hong Kong,…

February marks the debut of not one but two ultra-luxe Maldivian resorts. The 38-villa Raffles Maldives Meradhoo (raffles.com; villas from US$1,960) has brought the brand’s signature opulence to the remote Gaafu Alifu atoll, complete with Biologique Recherche facials at the spa, Peruvian-Japanese restaurant Yuzu, and an offshore “village” for even more secluded stays. Closer to Male, LUX* North Male Atoll (luxresorts.com; villas from US$1,750) eschews the thatched-roof aesthetic in favor of South Beach–chic. Singaporean design firm Miaja took its cues from the sleek curves and lines of superyachts to create 67 oversize villas with rooftop terraces. The property also boasts its own Peruvian-Japanese venue, Inti, but hip pool club Beach Rouge may well end up taking the spotlight.…

With more than 3,260 kilometers of coastline on the mainland alone, Vietnam has plenty of pretty coastal towns and stretches of sand to lay down your towel. The shore sweeps from north of Halong Bay in the South China Sea down to the Gulf of Thailand in a long, serpentine “S.” The distance covered means you’re guaranteed a diverse geography along the way: in the north, jungle-clad karst peaks pierce the water, while in the south, there are palm-lined beaches and well-preserved Champa ruins, left behind by the country’s Indianized trading empire. Along the way you’ll find colorful waterside towns, busy fishing villages, World Heritage–listed architecture and some of the country’s most luxe hotels and resorts. Read on for all the highlights of a cove-hopping north-to-south exploration of Vietnam’s coast.…

On a moonlit beach lapped by the Gulf of Guinea, I jump out of the way as a pair of giant flippers sends sand flying in my direction. Though we can’t make out the entire kayak-size bulk of the nesting leatherback turtle, the semi-darkness rever-berates with her heavy breathing as she slowly digs a burrow in which to lay 100 or so eggs. My husband, Mark, and I are on the shores of Gabon’s Pongara National Park. While it’s just 20 minutes by boat from Libreville, the capital, Pongara teems with wild elephants, forest buffalo, marshbuck, duikers, and even a few chimpanzees. And turtles. According to an international study conducted a decade ago, Gabon’s warm equatorial beaches harbor the world’s largest nesting population of leatherbacks, to say nothing of three…

Despite all my reading up on the place, I simply wasn’t prepared for Rajasthan. How could I have been? That unending horizon of burnt orange; the sudden flash of saffron and deep blue saris on the edge of dun-hued roads; camels accessorized with henna tattoos and beaded bridles; crimsonrobed sadhus (holy men) who lingered outside temples and stared up at the sun. I’d never seen, let alone imagined, a land so enigmatic and exotic. And then there’s the food: the soft creamy hues of dhal, the charred perfume of deep purple eggplants crackling on an open flame, the dark wheat breads still warm and smoked from the tandoor. As I would learn during my stay at a clutch of royal residences turned bijou hotels, Rajasthan’s cuisine is not only incredibly…

Hotel rooms in the Lion City can be cramped and impersonal, but a more comfortable alternative is close at hand. With a number of different locations across Singapore, Frasers’ serviced residences will put you within reach of major sights and the central business district, while providing real flexibility and perks like daily housekeeping. Located in the leafy riverside precinct of Robertson Quay, Mediterranean-inspired Fraser Place Robertson Walk offers a collection of 164 one-to three-bedroom serviced apartments in a variety of configurations. Communal amenities include an outdoor swimming pool (with an adjoining wading pool for kids), steam and sauna facilities, a 24-hour gym, and all-day dining venue The Hub, where daily breakfast is available. Its proximity to the financial district is a major bonus, while residents will find plenty of alfresco…

“THE ENTIRE PALEOGEOLOGICAL HISTORY OF MALAYSIA—MORE than half a billion years’ worth—happened to this tiny island,” declares Irshad Mobarak over dinner on the terrace of The Datai’s Beach Club restaurant. “All kinds of rock substrate were laid down over the eons: sandstone, limestone, shale, mudstone, chert. So there’s an incredible diversity of soil types too. This means lots of different flora, which in turn means lots of different butterflies—535 species in all, almost nine times what they have in the United Kingdom, and more than twice the number found in Sri Lanka. It’s incredible.” And there’s plenty more than butterflies lurking in the dense rain forests and mangrove fringes of Langkawi, a 370-square-kilometer island off peninsular Malaysia’s Kedah coast. Just ask Mobarak. The self-taught naturalist has called Langkawi home for…

HOTEL VILA LUMBUNG BALI Treat your special someone to a last-minute Valentine’s Day escapade at Hotel Vila Lumbung, a boutique Bali property that brings the serenity of Ubud to the heart of bustling Seminyak. For Rp 3,300,000 nett, the Discover Love package includes two nights’ stay with intimate breakfasts in bed, a complimentary couple’s massage, and a romantic dinner specially prepared by the resident chef. An in-room divine cake – alongside decorations using rose petals – will add an extra spark of romance to your Bali beach holiday. Set around a split-level pool that features a waterfall and grotto, Hotel Vila Lumbung’s 70 rooms and villas bring together modern comforts and local touches in spacious lodgings filled with natural light. Villas are styled after traditional rice barns and come crowned…

ISOBEL DIAMOND Wrote “Uncommon Threads,” p. 108 “While staying in Manila, I discovered a hub of contemporary designers and emerging fashion brands who, inspired by the textile roots of their country, were creating modern designs that showcased the arts of hand weaving and embroidery,” says London-based Diamond, who has a special interest in textile history. Having traveled extensively around the Philippines, she was already aware of the diversity and intricacy of the fabrics worn by the indigenous groups who live across the archipelago. “It was fantastic to see this heritage being put to good use by creative members of Manila’s fashion scene, and even more gratifying to be able to write about them.” NATASHA DRAGUN Wrote “Time for Tehran,” p. 68 Having spent more than a decade plotting her trip…

1 / Canada CALGARY CENTRAL LIBRARY Canada’s fourth-largest metropolitan area has been given a civic boost, thanks to the November debut of a landmark by acclaimed American-Norwegian studio Snøhetta and design specialists Dialog. The curving, sharp-edged structure soars over a light rail line, its sleek white exterior adorned with cut-out hexagonal patterns suggestive of snowflakes and open books. Bibliophiles will find the largely timber-clad interiors warm and welcoming, with room for 450,000 titles and spaces organized on a spectrum of “fun” to “serious.” calgarylibrary.ca 2 / New Zealand TURANGA Danish architecture firm Schmidt Hammer Lassen teamed up with local company Architectus to design this Christchurch library as the latest symbol of the city’s post-quake rebirth. The building’s golden aluminum facade recalls the triangular blades of native harakeke flax and the…

Among the powder playgrounds of Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost main island, Kiroro is something of a lesser-known gem, with more off-piste tree skiing and a longer snow season (until May) than nearby Niseko. While avid skiers and boarders may want to score fresh tracks beyond its 22 ski runs, those just starting out can take solace in the deep, dry powder and a host of activities for all ages: sightseeing by snowcat, snowshoeing tours through the forest, perhaps even a round of karaoke. And for a slice of local life? There’s the nearby port city of Otaru, distinguished by its sake breweries and a historic canal lined with warehouses that now host buzzy izakaya and seafood restaurants. Getting There Kiroro is a twohour bus ride from Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport, which…

Repeat guests at The Sukhothai Bangkok (sukhothai.com) will find its former Terrace Wing gussied up thanks to a recent top-to-bottom revamp by architect Ed Tuttle, who (alongside the late Kerry Hill) was responsible for the original design. Now renamed the Club Wing, it houses 33 sumptuous suites that feature silk-paneled walls, teakwood floors and furnishings, and marbled bathrooms kitted out with Japanese high-tech toilets and Bottega Veneta amenities. There’s also a double-height gym downstairs and a sixth-floor Club Lounge overlooking an expanded 25-meter infinity pool; the subtle new look sets the tone for a makeover that will unfold throughout the rest of the hotel in the next few years.…

The second-oldest property of the Aman brand, Bali’s Amandari (amandari.com), is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year with a range of special events and immersive cultural experiences. The 30th of each month sees guests invited to anniversary drinks featuring a Joged performance by students from the in-house dance school, while regular painting workshops teach the Kamasan style, which is often used to depict Hindu epics and indigenous stories. Also on the cards are full-moon hikes followed by picnics with gamelan music.…

BEST CITIES & ISLANDS WHILE BALI CONTINUES ITS 14-YEAR WINNING STREAK AS THE ISLAND DESTINATION OF CHOICE, THE LION CITY HAS KNOCKED BANGKOK FROM THE TOP SPOT IN OUR RANKING OF READERS’ FAVORITE CITIES. CITIES 1 Singapore2 Bangkok3 Hong Kong4 Tokyo5 Kuala Lumpur6 Taipei7 Ho Chi Minh City8 Perth9 Chiang Mai10 Kyoto ISLANDS 1 Bali2 Phuket3 Maldives4 Koh Samui5 Langkawi6 Penang7 Phu Quoc8 Palawan9 Boracay10 Fiji BEST AIRPORTS & AIRLINES SINGAPORE REMAINS THE UNDISPUTED LEADER WHEN IT COMES TO REGIONAL AVIATION, WITH BOTH ITS FLAG CARRIER AND AIRPORT DOMINATING THIS YEAR’S RANKINGS. AIRPORTS 1 Singapore Changi Airport2 Hong Kong International Airport3 Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport4 Incheon International Airport, Seoul5 Kuala Lumpur International Airport AIRLINES OVERALL 1 Singapore Airlines2 Emirates3 Cathay Pacific4 Thai Airways5 Qantas FIRST & BUSINESS CLASS 1 Singapore Airlines2…

It’s sunset in Tehran, a city that on first impression is admittedly hard to fall in love with. The Iranian capital has seen its metropolitan population swell to more than 15 million since the 1979 Islamic revolution, and the results are infamous levels of pollution and congestion. Dominating the urban sprawl are stark gray apartment blocks and unfinished malls that belie the country’s rich history of boundary-pushing design. After touring the architectural wonders of Shiraz, Isfahan, and World Heritage–listed Yazd, I find Tehran to be decidedly unlovely. But then I visit Tabiat Bridge. As the day’s last light sets the snowcapped Alborz Mountains to the north of town ablaze, I can’t help but feel that the country’s most secular and liberal city is well on its way to becoming its…

Situated a mere four-minute walk from Orchard Road, Singapore’s premier shopping belt, 8 on Claymore Serviced Residences offers a tranquil living environment for short and long stays in the Lion City, where thoughtful hospitality meets modern comfort and technological innovation. Whether it’s for streaming online TV shows and videos, booking a ride, or ordering food from an app, residents at 8 on Claymore can now surf the web to their heart’s content thanks to a free mobile Wi-Fi service. The property has partnered with Yogofi to roll out unlimited data on pocket Wi-Fi devices that act as a personal mobile hotspot. Each one has enough battery power to last up to 15 hours per charge, and connects up to five devices at high speed for the first 500 MB each…

As morning activities go, starting the day in the company of elephants is a pretty good one. Indeed, it’s almost de rigueur in this sylvan corner of northern Thailand, where the Anantara Golden Triangle resort doubles as a sanctuary for more than 20 rescued pachyderms and their mahouts, or handlers, who live together with their families at the on-site elephant camp. Guests are welcome to interact with these gentle giants, learn about elephant biology and the camp’s conservation efforts from the resident veterinarian, or, as I do, join some of the animals on their morning walk down to the mist-wreathed Ruak River. It’s a languid experience: my two-ton companions—three females aged 19 to 30—are in no hurry to reach the water, preferring instead to forage for young leaves and shoots…

BEST IN SHOW It will come as no surprise to anyone who has stayed at Awarta Nusa Dua Resort & Villas that this bijou Bali property has been named World’s Best Boutique Hotel by the U.K.-based Boutique Hotel Awards. With just 14 private villa residences set amid lush, frangipani-studded grounds in the Nusa Dua area, Awarta beat out more than 300 nominees from over 80 countries at the recent awards ceremony in London. It also took home the award for World’s Best Culinary Excellence, a tribute to the property’s two outstanding restaurants, Ru Yi (for Chinese fine dining) and The Long Table. Excellent service and a luxurious spa contributed to Awarta’s top spot, but the reviewer also raved about the beautiful fusion of traditional Balinese and Chinese architecture, bamboo-lined passage…

/ Maldives / ONE&ONLY REETHI RAH This award-winning sanctuary, which takes up one of the largest islands in the North Male Atoll, has unveiled two enticing offers valid for stays from April 22 until December 16, 2019—proof that planning a trip to the Maldives at low season has its perks. Guests who book four consecutive nights at the secluded 122-villa resort will only pay for three, while booking for seven nights will mean paying only five. Both specials include complimentary half-board along with shared boat transfers to and from Male International Airport (oneandonlyresorts.com). Thailand HYATT REGENCY BANGKOK SUKHUMVIT While the Hyatt Regency brand’s first Bangkok hotel made its debut just before Christmas beside Nana BTS station—with 273 spacious rooms and suites; three dining outlets specializing in Thai cuisine, light bites,…

1 YAGUAS Roughly the size of Yellowstone in the United States, Peru’s newest national park protects more than 868,000 hectares of virgin Amazonian rain forest in the northern Loreto region. Yaguas is the fruition of decades of persistent lobbying by indigenous communities and environmental groups to prevent its destruction by miners and loggers. Getting there requires several days of overland travel from the nearest city, Iquitos, but those who make the trip will experience a virtually untouched ecosystem that supports 3,000 kinds of flora, hundreds of bird species, and the greatest diversity of freshwater fish in Peru. Notable water-dwelling creatures here include giant river otters, manatees, and endangered pink river dolphins. 2 PATAGONIA In the remote Chacabuco Valley of Chilean Patagonia, what was once an overgrazed 70,000-hectare sheep ranch now…

A complex layering of dozens, sometimes hundreds, of eaux de vie, cognac is one of the world’s most covetable spirits. Small wonder, then, that its namesake town in southwestern France draws throngs of serious collectors and brandy aficionados—the birthplace of King François I is home to barrel rooms by the likes of Hennessy, Rémy Martin, and Baron Otard. Yet for all the wealth the destination attracts, Cognac has lacked high-class accommodation to match the standards of its tipples and deep-pocketed visitors. Enter Hôtel Chais Monnet, Cognac’s first five-star property and a shrine to the spirit that helped make the town so culturally, gastronomically, and economically important. Set on the banks of the Charente River, it revolves around a trio of refurbished mid-19th-century stone buildings (now connected by a glass atrium)…

Ginza, Tokyo’s premier shopping and entertainment district, has a well-founded reputation for being exclusive and eye-wateringly expensive. It certainly can be; after all, the area grew up around an Edo-era silver mint, and in modern times became an early symbol of the Japanese capital’s prosperity. But beyond its neon-lit boulevards, this 30-square-block pocket of central Tokyo is also an endlessly fascinating precinct of hidden bars, generations-old businesses, and quirky finds. The city’s principal kabuki theater resides here, as does a huge concentration of art galleries. It’s also a great place for strolling. The term ginbura—or “Ginza wandering”—was coined a century ago by flaneurs of that era, but it still has currency, as a day spent exploring these streets will attest. WHERE TO STAY Hyatt’s millennial-minded Centric brand made its Asian…

IN LINE WITH BROADER GREEN INITIATIVES BEING ROLLED OUT ACROSS THE BANYAN TREE GROUP, SUCH AS A BLANKET BAN ON SINGLE-USE PLASTICS THAT WENT INTO EFFECT LAST YEAR, THE SEASONAL TRÉ (BANYANTREE.COM) RESTAURANT AT BANYAN TREE PHUKET HAS REOPENED WITH A NEW MENU HIGHLIGHTING ORGANIC INGREDIENTS SOURCED FROM THE CLOSEST POSSIBLE LOCATIONS. ITS AIM? TO REDUCE THE RESORT’S CARBON FOOTPRINT WHILE SUPPORTING LOCAL FARMERS AND RURAL COMMUNITIES ELSEWHERE IN THAILAND. DINERS AT THE ALFRESCO LAGOON-SIDE VENUE CAN ORDER SPECIALTIES LIKE OCEAN-FRESH POACHED PHUKET LOBSTER, SCALLOP PAIRED WITH CHIANG MAI TURNIP, AND 72-HOUR BRAISED AUSTRALIAN WAGYU BRISKET SERVED ATOP WILD MUSHROOMS FORAGED FROM PHUKET’S NORTHEAST.…

Ascott’s portfolio of serviced residences – which includes more than 640 properties in over 160 cities and 30 countries across the Asia-Pacific region, Europe, the Middle East, and the Americas – is now complemented by the company’s venture into the hotel segment with a recent US$26 million investment in Indonesia-based Tauzia Hotels. At its heart, Ascott aims to provide travelers with a place to feel at home, no matter where they are. Ascott The Residence promises tailored exclusivity and an unmatched level of personal service in the world’s prime business districts, fostering an environment that helps top executives keep on track with their commitments while on the road. Meanwhile, Citadines Apart’hotel brings a touch of local flair to the experience. Guests here have the option to customize a wide range…