Innholdsfortegnelse for Dec2018/Jan 2019 i DestinAsian

For many of us, the cusp of a new year isn’t just a time to gather with family and friends, but also a time of reflection. And so it seems entirely appropriate that we should think about how the travel industry can have a positive effect when things are done right. Not by deliberate design, the idea of traveling responsibly has emerged as an underlying theme across our feature stories this issue. Responsible tourism can take a whole host of forms, whether it is choosing to steer clear of unethical attractions or spending our tourist dollars in places where they are sorely needed. One example of the latter is Zimbabwe, whose people are keen to revive the ailing tourism industry since the removal of strongman president Robert Mugabe from power.…

Waking before dawn may come across as counterintuitive while on vacation, but at Shangri-La’s Rasa Ria Resort & Spa—built along a sweeping expanse of cream-colored sand outside Kota Kinabalu—there’s good reason to do so. I’m standing on the raised wooden deck of the Ria Lookout, 90 meters atop a jungle-clad promontory and an easy half-hour hike from the hotel proper. Beside me, ranger Laslie Christianus bin Mudin excitedly identifies the call of a pied oriental hornbill, pointing out a distant black form perched in the treetops. We marvel at the sun rising from behind the unmistakable silhouette of Mount Kinabalu, painting the sky in shades of orange and dusky gold, and the mist burning off the tropical landscape as a lone kayaker paddles from the South China Sea into the…

Looking back, I’m still not entirely sure when it happened. Was it as we cut the boat’s motor and drifted into a grotto on water of such vivid hue and clarity that we might have been adrift on a sea of liquid emerald? Was it as we chanced upon the beautiful Renaissance heart of an unprepossessing village we’d only driven through as an afterthought? Or was it when we stopped on a quiet coastal road in the middle of nowhere and were led down to a rocky shelf a meter above the Mediterranean, where a pop-up lounge and cocktails were waiting for us to enjoy the sunset in splendid isolation? I can’t be certain. The only thing I know for sure is that at some point during my three days…

Two days into my rainy-season visit to Havelock Island last June, the weather broke. A steady west wind sent the newsprint-colored clouds scudding over the horizon, and I set out with naturalist Jocelyn Panjikaran to explore the shoreline that hosts the first five-star hotel in India’s remote Andaman Islands. Taking advantage of low tide, we picked our way among the coral and rock, spotting kingfishers and hermit crabs as we talked about the stunning variety of sea life that visits the resort’s all-but private cove, now too murky to snorkel thanks to the wind and rain. “You see a lot of rays. Sea turtles nest right on this beach. The other day I was diving by myself and they were all around me—I couldn’t believe it was really happening!” Jocelyn…

Along NATIONAL ROAD 3 from Veal Renh to the riverside town of Kampot, the Damrei Mountains appear as an impenetrable, forested wall. A branch of the Cardamom range that extends across 110 kilometers of southwest Cambodia, they top out at the misty plateau of Mount Bokor, a once-abandoned French hill station that on clear days offers views across the Gulf of Thailand to the Vietnamese island of Phu Quoc. On this Sunday morning, a troop of leather-clad motorcyclists from Phnom Penh has congregated at the entrance to Preah Monivong National Park to charge up the 37 kilometers of twisting asphalt to Bokor’s summit, along a road that, thanks to a 2008 upgrade, is arguably the best in the country. Laced with good hiking trails, Bokor is a defining presence on…

MÖVENPICK ARRIVES IN THE MALDIVES The white sands and turquoise waters of the Maldives’ Noonu Atoll are now the backdrop for the 72 overwater pool villas, 30 beach pool suites, and three beach spa pool residences at Mövenpick Resort Kuredhivaru Maldives. With stylishly spacious accommodation and a beautiful lagoon fringed by a vibrant house reef, this brand-new private-island retreat is bound to appeal to honeymooners and adventure-seeking families alike. Better still, its special opening rates start from just US$577 per night inclusive of breakfast for two and taxes. Bookings of three nights or more will also include an array of extra benefits, including a US$100 resort credit per stay (valid for food and beverage, spa treatments, water sports, and diving) and an additional 20 percent off at the diving and…

JEN JUDGE Photographed “A New Day for Zimbabwe?” p. 96 “It’s easy to think, ‘Yeah, yeah, another waterfall,’ but there’s a reason that Victoria Falls is one of the seven natural wonders of the world,” says award-winning New Mexico–based photographer Judge of her recent visit to Zimbabwe’s star attraction. “It’s completely stunning, as in, you just stand there, stupefied, with water roaring off the falls and soaking you. But the power of the falls was nothing compared to the electric feel of anticipation and hope I encountered throughout the southern African country. With the old president gone, Zimbabweans were upbeat, almost buzzing with optimism. Obviously there’s some skepticism that the peace will hold. But overall, I just had the feeling that Zimbabwe was finally ready to come into its own.” PANKAJ…

LATE BLOOMER It was the organic form of the desert rose, a flowerlike crystal aggregate that “blooms” in arid conditions, that inspired the interlocking concrete discs on the National Museum of Qatar, a soon-to-open (and much-delayed) landmark beside Doha’s seafront Corniche. The latest completed project by acclaimed French architect Jean Nouvel—who was also behind the Louvre Abu Dhabi—is intended as a “modern-day caravanserai” where “everything works to make the visitor feel the desert and the sea.” Nouvel designed the museum around the 19th-century palace of Sheikh Abdullah bin Jassim Al-Thani, a former emir, to create a unique juxtaposition of past and present. While the onetime royal residence takes pride of place as a central exhibit, the 8,000-square-meter permanent galleries document the nomadic origins of the Qatari people as well as…

MAROU This brand’s coming of age story reads like an adventure book involving jungle camping and treks deep into the Vietnamese countryside, where the French expat founders built strong relationships with local farmers. Today, beans are sourced from five provinces in the Mekong Delta—each offering a unique complexity—and processed into chocolate on the outskirts of Ho Chi Minh City. The beautifully wrapped bars are sold around the globe, but the chic Maison Marou boutiques in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City are also worth seeking out for their pastries and confections (marouchocolate.com). KAD KOKOA Established by a Thai husband-and-wife duo after discovering a small cacao farm for sale in northern Thailand, Kad Kokoa is probably the first bean-to-bar chocolate maker in the country. Working with a handful of farmers, the…

The verdant, rain-soaked isla grande of Chiloé, by far the largest island in its namesake Chilean archipelago, may be famously inclement all year round, but the longer days of the southern summer bring better chances of sun and meadows of wildflowers in full bloom. It’s also breeding season for endemic Humboldt and Magellanic penguins on the rugged western coast; other draws for nature-lovers include protected woodlands sheltering endangered Darwin’s foxes and southern river otters, plus a seasonal population of pygmy blue whales offshore. The culture of Chiloé’s fiercely independent islanders is no less intriguing thanks to a unique folkloric tradition, neighborhoods of stilted fishermen’s houses known as palafitos, and 60 nautical wooden churches—16 of them UNESCO-inscribed—that nod to the shipbuilding prowess of local craftsmen. Getting There LATAM Chile (latam.com) flies…

Standing early one morning on a spotless, near-empty stretch of White Beach, the fabled four-kilometer-strand running down the western coast of Boracay, I can scarcely believe that this tiny Philippine island welcomed two million tourists in 2017. Or that the shoreline here was tainted with algal blooms just six months ago. Three days after Boracay’s much-anticipated reopening in October, I have come to see how the Philippine government’s push for sustainable tourism has changed the face of the island. New rules mandating the installation of sewage treatment plants in all beachfront hotels, and in all properties with at least 50 rooms, have paid off. “The government did a good job with the overall cleanliness, and the water quality has improved a lot,” says Peter Tay, the Singaporean general manager of…

With a myriad of cultures comes a myriad of foods. As Portuguese traders came to Macao from their ports in Southeast Asia, India, Africa, and Portugal itself, they brought with them tastes of home and the spices and flavors they found along the way: coconut milk, turmeric, cloves, and paprika. In Macao, these merged with Cantonese cooking to create a truly fusion cuisine. And the continued development of Macao has only accelerated its gastronomic prowess, as shown by the number of restaurants serving up some of the world’s finest Chinese and international cuisine. Indeed, in 2017 the city was named as a UNESCO Creative City in the field of gastronomy. Yet it’s not just the Michelin stars that glitter in Macao, although the compact city has them in abundance –…

dusitD2 YARKAY THIMPHU, BHUTAN Scheduled to open on December 17, the National Day of Bhutan, the first Dusit property in the Himalayan kingdom draws on the local fable of the Four Harmonious Friends, which describes an elephant, a rabbit, a monkey, and a partridge working together to harvest fruit from a magical tree. This beloved national folktale is the inspiration for the hotel’s contemporary decor, with each of the four guest floors dedicated to a different animal in the tale. Dusit’s Thai-inspired approach to hospitality is delivered by staff members wearing hand-woven gho and kira outfits, while in-room mascots can be bought to support local charities. In-house facilities include a spa, a gym, a nightclub, and the first authentic Thai restaurant in Bhutan. The property is located within easy walking…

MAN FU YUAN AT INTERCONTINENTAL SINGAPORE A stalwart of Singapore’s Chinese fine-dining scene, Man Fu Yuan balances traditional Cantonese culinary techniques with modern sensibilities. The restaurant has introduced a collection of 10 new signature dishes inspired by the travels of executive chef Eric Neo, including the recipe shown here. Tiger Prawn Vermicelli in Superior Broth INGREDIENTS Superior Broth • 2 kg fresh prawn shells with head intact• 1 kg fresh prawns• 10 whole garlic• 200 g shallots• 10 tbsp oyster sauce• 10 tbsp light soya sauce• 5 tbsp dark soya sauce For each portion • 1 bundle of rice vermicelli• 1 king prawn• 1 tbsp prawn roe• Shallot oil• Huadiao Chinese wine• 1 bundle of chopped scallions METHOD Poach one kilo of fresh prawns in boiling water. Once cooked, shell…

An Australian artist specializing in oil paintings of his country’s flora, Stephen Travers (stephentraversart.com) took up sketching on a recent trip to Europe, finding particular inspiration in the French capital. “I love the density of visual richness to be seen in Paris,” he says. “Especially the resplendent Gothic bulk of Notre-Dame Cathedral, whose twin towers keep a reassuring watch over the comings and goings of the city.” This drawing depicts the eastward view from the Galerie des Chimères, the balcony of grotesques that runs between those towers. “I was enthralled by this glimpse of the rooftops of Île de la Cité caught between gargoyles and a small transept spire. While the view in the other direction toward the Eiffel Tower is more famous (and certainly magnificent), I always look to…

/ Malaysia / FOUR SEASONS HOTELS AND RESORTS Thanks to Four Seasons’ Incomparable Malaysia offer, some serious perks await guests who pair a beach- and nature-themed vacation in Langkawi with a city break at the brand’s recently opened high-rise hotel in Kuala Lumpur. Valid for stays through June 30, 2019, the deal includes credits of 300 ringgit and 900 ringgit respectively at Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur and Four Seasons Resort Langkawi, alongside daily breakfast and a complimentary room upgrade at both destinations. A two-night minimum stay at each property is required (fourseasons.com). Singapore SIX SENSES MAXWELL December 1 marked the debut of Six Senses’ second property in the Lion City, housed in a block of Chinatown shophouses with elegant, art-strewn interiors by acclaimed French designer Jacques Garcia. Travelers wanting…

There’s a revival gathering steam on the doorstep of London’s King’s Cross station. What used to be a grim wasteland of goods yards and storage sheds is undergoing a multibillion-dollar overhaul that has seen luxury apartments, boutiques, a cinema, and an art school spring up in the last decade. But the hottest new addition is Coal Drops Yard (coaldropsyard.com), a post-industrial retail and dining precinct that made its debut in October. For its first major project in London, King’s Cross–based Heatherwick Studio was tasked with converting a pair of 1850s warehouses where coal was once stored and transferred. The architects have retained much of the buildings’ Victorian fabric, with the aged cast-iron columns and soot-stained brick given only a light restoration. Now, the most striking feature is the sweeping winged…

HONG KONG HUSTLE There’s so much more to this glittering harbor city than its neon-lit streets and glossy shopping malls. With a wealth of outlying islands, well maintained hiking trails, and historic villages dotting the New Territories, Hong Kong packs in a dizzying array of experiences beyond its urban heart. Less than an hour by ferry from Central district, Mui Wo on the eastern coast of Lantau is a favored haunt for expats seeking a quieter existence. The town’s multicultural makeup is evident at Deer Horn Restaurant & Bar—the menu features authentic Nepalese dishes such as momos, yak cheese fritters, and a spicy soybean salad called bhatmas sadeko—and The Stoep at High Tide (fb.com/thestoephk), a South African restaurant that relocated here after an 18-year run on a south Lantau beach.…

ROBUCHON AU DÔME There are only two restaurants in Macao that have garnered three Michelin stars (the other is The Eight, a contemporary Cantonese dining room located in the same building), and this one, conceived by the late, great Joël Robuchon, has achieved near-pilgrimage status among gourmands. Situated on the 43rd floor of the Grand Lisboa Hotel under a beautiful vaulted glass dome, it serves fine French cuisine alongside one of the region’s most extensive wine lists, all accompanied by spectacular views. THE GOLDEN PEACOCK Named for India’s national bird, this lavish one-star venue at The Venetian Macao is sumptuously accented with copper leaf and sadeli mosaics. But the main draw will always be the food, which, despite chef Justin Paul’s Keralan origins, encompasses regional delicacies from across India: chicken…

On a winter MORNING ON ZIMBABWE’S westernmost stretch of the Zambezi River, the dawn air seems to hum. The flood of water over Victoria Falls, the world’s largest waterfall, is so powerful and constant that it reverberates in my chest. Though I can’t see the cascades from where I’m staying a couple kilometers downstream at the venerable Victoria Falls Hotel, the tentacles of mist writhing above the distant tree line make it obvious that the crashing water is raising the din. And yet the deep, dull tremor—locals call the falls Mosi-oa-Tunya, or “the smoke that thunders”—almost feels like the collective, expectant trembling of an entire downpressed nation. It’s June of 2018, and I’ve come to Zimbabwe at a momentous and delicate juncture in the country’s history. Just seven months earlier,…

COAST BEACH CLUB & BISTRO AT CENTARA GRAND BEACH RESORT & VILLAS HUA HIN Relaxation comes naturally at the Centara Grand resort in Thailand’s original beach destination. Located steps from the powdery sands of Hua Hin Beach, Coast Beach Club & Bistro is the ideal place to unwind over inspired concoctions and a mouthwatering selection of food from around the world. Guests can feast on Thai-inspired tapas and a wide range of international fare: highlights include grilled chicken with papaya salad and green apple, the ever-popular Asian vongole (clams) with pappardelle, Neapolitan pizzas, and skewers of New Zealand Black Angus rib-eye steak. Meanwhile, the open-air venue also boasts an extensive wine list and crowd-pleasing cocktails such as the classic mojito and Centara Sunrise, whose recipe is shown here. Centara Sunrise…