Innholdsfortegnelse for Jun/Jul 2018 i DestinAsian

It’s that time of year again—when a summer vacation is no longer a distant dream but an imminent reality, a time that coincides with the release of our annual Islands Issue. Headlining it all is our cover story, beautifully shot by Martin Westlake, in which editor-in-chief Christopher P. Hill takes stock of three resorts that each promise an immersion into different sides of Sri Lanka: from a tea plantation to a beachside hideaway and the grasslands and forests of Yala National Park. Halfway around the world in Hawai‘i, Joe Yogerst journeys to the smallest of its main islands, Lāna‘i, and neighboring Maui to see how native Hawaiian culture is experiencing a remarkable revival. We then jet over to Greece, where Naxos resident Lucretia Stewart shows us the virtues of her…

Set in a row of eight mid-19th-century shophouses along Chinatown’s leafy Duxton Road, the 49-room Six Senses Duxton marks both the luxury hospitality brand’s first foray into an urban destination, and London-based designer Anouska Hempel’s first hotel project in Singapore. The remarkable conservation project led by architect Faye Moey has preserved the facade’s eclectic mix of Malay timber fretwork, slender French windows, Portuguese shutters, and elaborately carved Corinthian pilasters so typical of buildings of that era. The interiors, meanwhile, are a fantastical concoction straight out of Hempel’s playbook. Here, the preeminent designer has imagined a lost Chinese girl who believes she is an empress and comes into her royal destiny at the hotel. Which explains the vivid pan-Asian flourishes so familiar to fans of Hempel’s work on Blakes in Amsterdam—namely,…

• Baler This idyllic getaway on central Luzon’s east coast is known for its local surfing scene and rich Spanish-colonial heritage, but it has plenty of other tricks up its sleeve. If Sabang Beach is wave-rider central, Dicasalarin Cove is the nonsurfer’s hangout with its white-sand shores, smaller waves, and a so-called “lighthouse,” a leaning monument that offers sweeping views of the rugged coastline from its cliff-top location. Make sure you drop by the Baler Museum, drive up Ermita Hill, and hike through the rain forest to take a dip below Ditumabo Mother Falls. SLEEP Surfers in the lineup are best observed from the veranda of a second-floor suite in Costa Pacifica (63-2/519-4249; costapacificabaler.com; doubles from US$88), a modern, whitewashed property on Sabang Beach. • Dahican Mindanao in the far…

BREAKFAST WITH KAI HO OF TAÏRROIR “For an authentic Taiwanese-style breakfast, you can’t go wrong with Fu Hang Dou Jiang (2F 108 Zhongxiao East Rd.) on the first floor of Huashan Market. My pick from the menu is shaobing, a sesame flatbread that’s wrapped around a youtiao (Chinese cruller) and a fried egg—it’s so good! The shop is immensely popular, and queues sometimes start as early as 5 a.m., stretching out all the way onto the street. But after your first bite, you’ll know that it was well worth the wait.” LATE-NIGHT EATS WITH LAM MING KIN OF LONGTAIL “After a shift, I usually take my team to one of the many spicy hotpot restaurants around town. The mala hotpot at Chan Chi Hot Pots Lab (178 Nanjing East Rd.…

ACRID COCKTAIL of sweat, urine, and what smelled like overripe durian washed over us like one of the Indian Ocean breakers we could hear rumbling in the distance. “Ah, we are lucky, this elephant is in musth,” said John Wilson, our enthusiastic young guide on this afternoon’s game drive in the coastal fringes of Yala National Park. “That smell is pure testosterone—he’s in his prime and ready to mate.” The pachyderm in question was a funky 40-year-old bull standing upwind from our safari vehicle in the shade of a wild tamarind tree. John, a Sri Lankan half that age who speaks with a posh accent picked up from his school days in England, explained that musth is the annual mating period when adult male elephants’ testosterone jumps to 60 times…

Folegandros Tiny, remote, and rugged, Folegandros appeals to escapists and old-fashioned romantics. Its main village, Chora (literally “town” in Greek — the name given to all Cycladic capitals), is built up to the edge of a 250-meterhigh cliff; from here, you can access a number of good beaches via stone-paved donkey tracks or by little fishing boats departing daily from the port. Stay at the delightful family-run Anemomilos Apartments (anemomilosapartments.com; doubles from US$260) in Chora, where most of the 16 self-catering studios afford spectacular views down to the sea. Andros The second largest of the Cyclades is discreetly affluent and unspoiled by mass tourism. Visited primarily by moneyed Athenians, Andros has just a handful of lowprofile eateries and chic little art galleries, not to mention several fantastic beaches, notably Ahla,…

WOOBAR AT W BALI – SEMINYAK Located right on the beachfront in southern Bali’s buzzing Seminyak, Woobar is the place to savor creative tropical flavors while soaking up the sunshine, boundless ocean views, and eclectic beats. The casual-chic venue is open every day from 10 a.m. to midnight, boasting a sky deck where resident and international DJs set the mood after sunset, along with a dance floor and underground whiskey room. Poolside tapas here are also a treat, as are the “Mix it up” master classes geared toward cocktail aficionados. Sweet-toothed patrons with a penchant for rum should opt for Woobar’s signature cocktail I-Candy, which can now be made at home using the recipe shown here. I-Candy INGREDIENTS • 45 ml Cachaça rum• 2 tsp brown palm sugar• 4 lime…

MARTIN WESTLAKE Photographed “A Sri Lankan Trifecta,” p. 64 “It was great to be back in Sri Lanka,” says Westlake, a Jakarta-based photographer who first visited the island in 2005. “Though much has changed since my last trip—better infrastructure, more tourists—I’m happy to say that the place has maintained its unique charm.” He was also happy to cover a fair bit of ground for this story, from the tea country of the central highlands to Yala National Park and Cape Weligama on the south coast. “Highlights for me—aside from the delicious tea—were searching for the elusive leopards on safari in Yala and the stunning gardens at our beautifully restored tea planter’s bungalow in Bogawantalawa Valley.” When not on assignment, Westlake continues work on a long-term personal project about Indonesia’s volcanoes.…

OFF THE WALL Tokyo Bay’s popular Odaiba district is about to add another draw with the June 21 opening of Mori Building Digital Art Museum: teamLab Borderless. The first such museum of its kind, it’s a joint effort between property developers Mori Building and teamLab, a design collective that aims to “liberate art from physical constrictions” through the use of technology. This 10,000-square-meter space will be teamLab’s flagship venue, and their first-ever permanent exhibition will comprise 50 artworks including Untitled, a psychedelic room of projected waterfalls that cascade onto a raised area mimicking water-worn boulders, and Forest of Resonating Lamps, a Yayoi Kusama–esque setup where a mass of hanging lanterns respond to human actions by changing color. Also under the same roof, the Athletics Forest offers a series of unusual…

THE WORLD AT YOUR FEET Inspired by cartography and natural history, this casual vegan footwear brand is perfect for inveterate wanderers. Designer Sarah Swee’s comfortable slip-ons, sandals, and loafers are best suited to everyday exploration. “I like the idea that we are all explorers, each on our own journey—of self-discovery, personal or professional growth,” says Swee, who initially had doubts about starting the business. “But I recall telling myself one day, ‘if I had the world at my feet, nothing would hold me back.’ And the idea and name just stuck.” In June, the brand will add distressed-canvas travel cases to its lineup. Where to find it: ELOHIM by Sabrina Goh at Capitol Piazza and theworldatyourfeet.co. STOLEN What began as a creative outlet beyond Elyn Wong’s previous job in advertising…

Judging by the name alone, Revīvō is clear about its mission. In Latin it simply means “I’ll live again,” which speaks of a noble aim to inspire better living for all its guests. This new wellness resorts brand is the brainchild of two Hong Kong–based entrepreneurs who share a passion for wellness and travel: Gordon Oldham, founder of The Pavilions Hotels and Resorts; and Laurie Mias, who began Mr. Green Juice, Hong Kong’s first organic cold-pressed juicery. The opening of its Bali property in late March marked Revīvō’s worldwide launch; still to come next year are a wellness cruiser in the Komodo Islands (also in Indonesia) and a resort inside the 19th-century Château de Fiac in southern France. Perched on a three-hectare hillside property above Nusa Dua, Revīvō Bali has…

I can scarcely believe my ears. It’s my first morning in the Philippines when I suddenly recognize the words a las ocho cincuenta y cuatro—the Spanish for 8:54—spoken over the radio as I sit through a traffic jam en route to the spiritual heart of Cebu City. I’ve come here to explore Cebu’s enduring links with its Spanish past, and those words hint at the profound Hispanic influence on Filipino culture, society, and spiritual life that remains to this day. Anchored in the very heart of the Visayas, a cluster of islands stretching across the midsection of the Philippines, Cebu is a province, an island (more than six times the size of Singapore), and the second-largest metropolis in the country. It was here, not Manila, that an expedition led by…

ROBABLY THE MOST LAIDBACK OF ALL the Hawaiian islanders, it takes an awful lot to get the people on Lāna‘i excited about anything. But on a breezy weekday morning, when most of them should be in a workplace or classroom, a good number of the island’s 3,000 residents are gathered around Manele Bay awaiting the arrival of a very special boat. A loud cheer goes up as the Hōkūle‘a rounds Kalaeokahano Point and sails into the harbor. Originally built in 1975 to demonstrate that ancient Polynesians were skilled navigators and explorers, the replica of a traditional Hawaiian double-hulled voyaging canoe, or wa‘a kaulua, is on an extended “victory lap” through the archipelago after completing a three-year circumnavigation of the globe. This is the H?k?le‘a’s first visit to Lāna‘i following the…

THE RAPIDS ARE FIERCE ON THIS STRETCH of Sarawak’s Rajang River, bouncing us around like kids on a trampoline. As our low-slung ferry plows tenaciously through the white water, I eyeball the few grubby life jackets stuffed in overhead bins and wonder how long it might take me to swim ashore should the need arise. “Check it out: Borneo has crocodiles,” my travel companion, Mike Bossick, reads from a guidebook, apparently oblivious to our current predicament. Maybe 12 hours aboard three separate boats has cultivated a measure of complacency in the man. At 65, Bossick is a seasoned wayfarer, so perhaps he’s seen worse. Or perhaps, being Californian, he just knows how to keep it cool. Finally, the rapids dissipate, and we can again take pleasure in the passing jungle…

SUITE DEAL Located right on the Kowloon waterfront in Hung Hom, Kerry Hotel Hong Kong has head-turning Victoria Harbour views with stylish interiors to match. Designer André Fu and renowned architectural firm Rocco Design Architects collaborated on the year-old property, creating an urban resort with 546 sleek and spacious guest rooms, a world-class art collection, an impressive lineup of food and beverage outlets (including signature restaurant Hung Tong, inspired by the 19th-century shipyards that once peppered the surrounding neighborhood), and landscaped gardens—a rare find in Hong Kong. Also on hand is Base Camp Kerry Sports, a 24-hour fitness center that features a 25-meter outdoor infinity pool as well as Jacuzzi, steam bath, sauna, and spa facilities. Better still, guests booking a minimum of two consecutive nights in a 90-square-meter Executive…

Maldives & Sri Lanka ANANTARA HOTELS, RESORTS & SPAS For the ultimate Indian Ocean vacation, Anantara is offering 30 percent savings for combined stays of six nights or more between the brand’s properties in the Maldives and Sri Lanka. While guests will room at Anantara Dhigu Maldives with a US$100 resort spa and dining credit per villa or overwater suite, they have a choice of two resorts in Sri Lanka: the Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle and Anantara Kalutara. Booking directly on the website for stays until December 27, 2018 will also bring a daily complimentary dinner for two at selected restaurants (anantara.com). Singapore THE FULLERTON HOTEL If you’re considering a last-minute escape to the Lion City this June, The Fullerton Hotel is giving away complimentary fourth nights until July 1.…

Rainforest Fringe Festival DATES: July 6–15, 2018 PLACE: Kuching, Sarawak WHAT IS IT? A prelude to the Rainforest World Music Festival that showcases Sarawak’s local talent and tapestry of cultures, now in its second year. DON’T MISS: Homegrown production Sarawak, An Indigenous Journey, featuring Kuching-born soprano Dewi Liana Seriestha; performances by Australian duo Electric Fields, experimental group At Adau, and jazz singer Pete Kallang at the First People Party; photographic exhibitions like “Forgotten Beauty”—Tan Wei Kheng’s intimate portraits of Sarawakian tribal elders—and “Tattoos” by National Geographic Society Fellow Chris Rainier. OTHER HIGHLIGHTS: A creative forum on wood and bamboo with regional greats like Filipino designer Kenneth Cobonpue; The Market at Borneo744, where visitors can pick up Sarawakian artisanal products from crafts and antiquities to music and fashion (rainforestfringe.com). George Town…

The poet Lauris Edmond once called Wellington “the city of action, the world headquarters of the verb.” New Zealand’s capital, arranged around a sparkling harbor at the base of the North Island, is also a city of bush-clad hills and brisk winds, of coffee, art, and culture. Its compact size means visitors will find Wellington eminently walkable; an easy stroll from the downtown area will bring you to a trove of independent stores and intimate dining and drinking spots in the neighboring inner-city suburbs of Te Aro and Aro Valley. • WHERE TO EAT Just a 10-minute walk from the waterfront Te Papa Tongarewa, or Museum of New Zealand, Leeds Street Bakery (6G/14 Leeds St.; 64-4/802-4278; leedsstbakery.co.nz) is the place to pick up lovingly handmade organic breads or desserts in…

No Spanish-colonial town in Cuba is quite as beguiling as UNESCO-listed Trinidad, whose pastel-hued, terra cotta–roofed buildings lie in the verdant foothills of the Escambray Mountains. Cowboys from the surrounding countryside regularly roam on horseback through the cobblestone streets, past churches and well-preserved colonial mansions financed by the booming sugar cane industry (and slave trade) in the early to mid-1800s. Beyond the neo-Baroque monuments fronting Plaza Mayor, Trinidad’s beating heart, local residents dance to salsa and son cubano music into the early morning hours. The merrymaking reaches its peak during the annual Fiestas Sanjuaneras, a four-day celebration held around the last weekend of June: expect rodeos, traditional games, and an eye-popping parade of masked revelers and floats that nod to the Afro-Cuban roots of much of Trinidad’s populace. Getting There…

Few would disagree that Labuan Bajo—a fast-developing port town on the western coast of the Indonesian island of Flores—is in an achingly beautiful part of the world. Fiery sunsets are a regular sight over the phinisi-filled harbor, and on the islands beyond lie the primeval landscapes and equally primeval-looking creatures of Komodo National Park, with a kaleidoscope of marine life below the waves. But essential services for local communities have not kept pace with the ongoing boom in visitor numbers and improvements in tourist infrastructure. Enter Happy Hearts Fund, an NGO that Czech supermodel Petra Němcová founded in 2006 to rebuild schools in disaster-stricken areas. The charity stepped up to the plate that same year following a powerful earthquake in Yogyakarta, and in 2013 created its first independent chapter, Happy…

ISLES APART Been to Hayman, Hamilton, Daydream, and Kangaroo? Seen Fraser and Phillip? Australia’s high-profile islands are popular for good reason, but there are plenty of others that afford an equally alluring union of beaches, wildlife, and history—minus the crowds. From the Northern Territory to Tasmania, here are six lesser-known islands to add to your next adventure Down Under. HAGGERSTONE ISLAND, QUEENSLAND After becoming the sole inhabitants of this jungly speck of land in 1985, bushman Roy Turner and his English wife Anna spent six years crafting an intimate resort from driftwood and alangalang thatch. “We were looking for a place to live a dream,” Anna recalls. “It had to be remote and wild.” Haggerstone is both. Situated at the top end of the Great Barrier Reef, the 42-hectare island…

I FIRST CAME TO NAXOS IN 1985 to visit a friend who was house-sitting for an Englishwoman who lived in the Kastro area of Chora (otherwise known as Naxos Town), the island’s whitewashed seaside capital. I returned pretty much every summer after that and have now, to my almost-daily amazement, resided here full-time for 15 years. Living alone on a remote Greek island might not be to everyone’s taste, but it suits me fine. Naxos is the largest and arguably the most beautiful of the Cyclades, a group of some 220 islands in the southern Aegean Sea. The landscape is magnificent and its size means that you get it all: mountains (including Mount Zas, at 1,000 meters the island chain’s highest peak), green valleys, golden beaches, secluded ruins, and marble…

SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN AT SIAM KEMPINSKI HOTEL BANGKOK Created by acclaimed Danish chef Henrik Yde-Anderson, whose Kiin Kiin restaurant in Copenhagen has held one Michelin star since 2008, Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin pairs the freshest Thai ingredients with Western cooking techniques that push the boundaries of form, texture, and temperature. Sra Bua was awarded its own Michelin star last December, and is best known for The Journey, its signature set dinner. The recipe for one of its eight courses is outlined below. Cotton Candy Salad with Red Snapper and Cucumber INGREDIENTS (Serves 2) • 80 g cucumber• 4 g julienned spring onion• 360 ml fresh lime juice• 40 ml kaffir lime juice• Kaffir lime zest• 20 ml fish sauce• 6 green chilies• 6 cloves fresh garlic• 20…

FAIRMONT MALDIVES SIRRU FEN FUSHI It’s not surprising that the first Fairmont property in the Maldives lives up to its name, derived from the local Dhivehi words for “secret water island.” Spread across a 16-hectare isle, the all-villa resort has the distinction of being the only place to stay in the Shaviyani Atoll. Lodgings here include beachfront villas, overwater villas, and safari-style tented suites in the lush heart of the island; all boast private pools and rustic-chic furnishings. Elsewhere on the island, freshly caught seafood is prepared at fine-dining venue Azure, one of two overwater restaurants, and guests can tuck into a variety of international cuisines at Raha Market. There’s also a 200-meter-long infinity pool, an open-air bamboo bar made by Balinese artisans, and Willow Stream Spa, which offers Indian…