Innholdsfortegnelse for February - March 2018 i DestinAsian

I’ve always been attracted to places that are defined by water. Few things are better than a seaside vacation, especially when I can slow down to watch the ocean’s gentle ebb and flow, observing the tide on a moonlit night or as the skies brighten with the first glints of dawn. One of the reasons I love water is because it is symbolic of the passage of time. It doesn’t seem that long ago that we launched DestinAsian, but this edition marks our 13th Readers’ Choice Awards and the magazine’s 100th issue. To mark the milestone, our editors have pulled out all the stops to create a roundup of 100 essential travel experiences around the Asia-Pacific region. From luxury tented stays and must-try restaurants to new spas and outdoor adventures,…

Andaz Singapore THE LOCATION: Inside DUO, a pair of Ole Scheeren skyscrapers in Bugis. THE LOOK: Southeast Asia’s first Andaz hotel sports modern artworks and André Fu– designed interiors that take their cues from the surrounding neighborhoods. Staff are dressed in outfits from local label In Good Company. ROOM COUNT: 342, including 26 suites. Entry-level rooms are a generous 38 square meters; expect a complimentary minibar along with access to the Sunroom lounge for all-day refreshments and free wine and Andaz Pale Ale from 4 to 6 p.m. FITNESS FACILITIES: An outdoor infinity pool and a 24-hour gym. DINING: Alley on 25 comprises seven outlets including Auntie’s Wok and Steam, which serves up double-boiled beef short rib noodle soup and homemade jiaozi dumplings. WHERE TO DRINK: Rooftop bar Mr. Stork…

Getting There From Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport, a direct intercity train service run by Nederlandse Spoorwegen (ns.nl) whisks passengers to Leeuwarden in two hours and 10 minutes. Where to Stay In Leeuwarden, the former 1885 post office and an adjoining bank building reopened three years ago as the 82-room Post-Plaza Hotel & Grand Café (31-58/215-9317; post-plaza.nl; doubles from US$130). Don’t Miss A bike ride around the Wadden Sea island of Terschelling (terschelling.org), whose UNESCO-listed moorlands, sand dunes, and beaches draw local holidaymakers each summer.…

BEST CITIES & ISLANDS Bangkok retains its crown as the top city to visit in the region, and for the 13th consecutive year, readers have declared Bali their favorite island destination. TOP 10 CITIES 1 Bangkok 2 Tokyo 3 Singapore 4 Hong Kong 5 Taipei 6 Kuala Lumpur 7 Seoul 8 Ho Chi Minh City 9 Jakarta 10 Chiang Mai TOP 10 ISLANDS 1 Bali 2 Phuket 3 Maldives 4 Koh Samui 5 Boracay 6 Langkawi 7 Palawan 8 Penang 9 Krabi 10 Bintan READER’S TAKE “No matter how many times you visit Bangkok, there’s always something new to discover. It has everything you could ever want in a city break: fantastic food, great views, activities to suit any interest, and pocket-friendly prices. What’s not to love?” BEST AIRPORTS &…

Thailand Biennale This inaugural event will be staged outdoors across several scenic sites around Krabi (Nov. 2–Feb. 28, 2019; thailandbiennale.org). Art Jakarta Indonesia’s top contemporary art fair marks its 10th anniversary in 2018 (Aug. 2–5; artjakarta.com). Tropfest The world’s largest short-film festival, held in Sydney’s Parramatta Park (Feb. 17; tropfest.org.au). OH! Emerald Hill In Singapore, the eighth edition of OH! Open House’s annual art walk will explore the colonial heritage of the Emerald Hill neighborhood through secret tours, art, and in-home performances (every Saturday and Sunday in March; ohopenhouse.org). 21st Biennale of Sydney The largest contemporary visual arts fest in Australia returns this year with works by 70 international artists (Mar. 16–June 11; biennaleofsydney.com.au). Harbour Arts Sculpture Park In the lead-up to this year’s editions of Art Basel Hong Kong…

SIX SENSES DUXTON Restored under the guidance of London-based hotelier and designer Anouska Hempel, this row of former trading houses in Singapore’s Tanjong Pagar area will debut as a 49-room hotel in April (sixsenses.com). AMANYANGYUN Aman’s latest retreat is an assemblage of Ming- and Qing-dynasty dwellings that were rescued from demolition in Jiangxi province and reassembled brick-by-brick inside a forest of camphor trees outside downtown Shanghai (aman.com). MANDARIN ORIENTAL QIANMEN 2018 looks set to be the year that Mandarin Oriental finally unveils this much-awaited property in Beijing’s Qianmen area, its rooms and dining venues dispersed across a series of traditional hutong courtyard houses (mandarinoriental.com). HERITAGE KEMPINSKI HOTEL YANGON The Kempinski group’s second foray into Myanmar will open soon in the imposing former Police Commissioner’s Office on Strand Road, with 229…

Mt. Fuji World Heritage Center Recently unveiled in Fujinomiya city, within striking distance of Japan’s most iconic peak, this landmark by star architect Shigeru Ban appeals to both kids and adults alike. Inside, visitors ascend a spiral ramp lined with immersive displays from the first floor to an observation hall at the fifth, mirroring the experience of climbing Mount Fuji (mtfuji-whc.jp). 20th Century Fox World Malaysia’s Genting Highlands is opening the world’s first 20th Century Fox theme park in late 2018, with 25 thrilling rides and attractions based on popular movies such as Life of Pi, Ice Age, and Night at the Museum (rwgenting.com). Universal Studios Japan The Osaka theme park has introduced several new experiences as part of its annual Universal Cool Japan event until June 24. These include…

A SPA IS BORN Beyond a dramatic entryway of lava-stone walls that conjure up images of some sunken temple, Sava Spa—the latest addition to Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach—welcomes guests in an apothecary-inspired reception space filled with spa amenities and products. It makes for a impressive prelude to the treatments that await within, which utilize natural and locally sourced ingredients—Balinese rice, fresh sea salt, jasmine, seaweed, and island-grown herbs, to name a few—alongside innovative healing and wellness techniques rooted in ancient practices. Sava’s aromatic Eastern Rose massage, for instance, alleviates muscle tension and is ideal for obtain For more information, call 62-361/209-9999 or visit seminyak.hotelindigo.com A NEW BAR FOR BINTAN Situated just above sister café Warung Yeah! on the shores of Lagoi Bay Bintan, Yeah! Lounge provides a brand-new place…

CLAIRE KNOX Wrote “Green Dreams,” p. 98 Currently based between Melbourne and Southeast Asia, Knox says, “I’m lucky to have spent some of my formative years in Cambodia; the country has had a huge impact on my personal and professional life. It’s been especially rewarding to have watched the place progress over the last 10 years, though it’s certainly still plagued by corruption and political repression. Still, Cambodians have a resilience and genuine kindness that I haven’t encountered in many other places. On my recent trip to the Cardamom Mountains in Cambodia’s jungle-covered southwest, what inspired me most was the sheer passion of the locals who are working doggedly to protect this biodiversity hotspot. Living in such a wild place, they are intimately entwined with nature and incredibly in tune with…

FOOD FOR THOUGHT Gourmands, look here—up to 40 of the brightest minds in the culinary world are gathering in Bangkok for the inaugural {Re} Food Forum on March 19–20 to tackle the issue of waste and sustainability in Asia’s food industry. The Residence, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok will play host to speakers including top Swedish chef Magnus Nilsson (with two Michelin stars under his belt), Luis “Chele” Gonzalez of Manila’s acclaimed Vask, and Douglas McMaster, who helms the kitchen at the first zero-waste restaurant in the United Kingdom. Through master classes of up to 20 people, each guest plans to share insights on everything from sustainable practices to traditional ingredients: Will Goldfarb from Bali’s Room4Dessert is spotlighting the difference between palm sugar and its industrial-made counterpart, and Shinobu Namae from…

FORT CANNING STATION Soak up the natural scenery and historic charms of Fort Canning Hill while going for a workout. Local fitness company UFit (ufit.com.sg) offers a walk-in class where guests can expect to tackle lots of stairs on a sprint up and around the wooded parklands. Two nearby venues offer a post-exercise reward. At the foot of the hill, popular café The Fabulous Baker Boy (65/6694-8336; thefabulousbakerboy.com) serves simple Western cuisine with a local twist. Baker-owner Juwanda Hashim is known for his mouth-watering cakes, but savory menu items like the chili crab mac ’n cheese are a must-try as well. A little ways down River Valley Road, Butterknife Folk (65/6734-7855; butterknifefolk.com) makes gelato with locally sourced ingredients. Flavors are decadent but balanced and include Life’s a Peach (white peach…

1 / United States WASHINGTON, D.C. The American capital greets the arrival of spring with plenty of color and pageantry, thanks to a spectacle that started with a gift of Yoshino cherry trees from Japan in 1912. Clouds of white and pale pink petals drape the eastern bank of the Potomac River, encircling the Tidal Basin and extending to the Washington Monument. The city’s National Cherry Blossom Festival is slated to run from March 20 to April 15, ending with a street parade and the Japanese-themed Sakura Matsuri celebrations. nationalcherryblossomfestival.org 2 / China WUXI An hour from Shanghai by high-speed train, the lakeside city of Wuxi possesses China’s single largest planting of cherry trees, with more than 30,000 representing 67 varieties. It’s found in a 130-hectare park on the idyllic…

HERITAGE Reviving the Kristang culture of Malacca p. 62 ISLAND SCENE A Shikoku sampler p. 69 The first time I touched down in Cambodia was during the throes of its moody monsoon season. I can still recall the descent into Phnom Penh as the plane glided over the confluence of the Mekong, Tonle Sap, and Bassac rivers. From above, the whole country looked like it was underwater; a patchwork quilt of shimmering, chartreuse-colored rice paddies and great lakes. It was a delicious visual entrée to a city where I ended up living a few years later. Of course, the Phnom Penh I first experienced in 2007 was a world away from the one I recently revisited: back then, I was a budget traveler on the so-called Banana Pancake Trail. As soon as…

Far from the bright lights of big-city Japan, Shikoku boasts its own unpretentious character and quaint charms. This is the smallest and least populous of the country’s four main islands, a rural backwater with a few prosperous coastal cities, an ancient pilgrimage circuit, and rugged mountain valleys dotted with thatch-roofed farmhouses. It’s not exactly off the beaten path anymore, but for those looking to experience a different side of Japan, Shikoku has much to offer. What follows is a sampling of some of its highlights. GARDEN VARIETY If you’ve never heard of Takamatsu, you’re not alone: the busy port city isn’t all that well known even among most Japanese. But it is the first stop for many visitors to Shikoku, having the island’s second-busiest airport—Tokyo is a 90-minute flight away—as well…

ANDAMAN ISLANDS, INDIA The Andamans may be tricky to get to, but intrepid travelers who make it to this unplugged archipelago in the Bay of Bengal, some 1,400 kilometers off the east coast of mainland India, will have dive sites, thick jungle, and long white beaches almost entirely to themselves. Havelock is the most touristed of the islands, and it’s here you’ll find the brand-new Taj Exotica Resort & Spa (taj.tajhotels.com), the Andamans’ first five-star resort, which features a private beach and 75 villas inspired by local Jarawa huts. With water all around, it’s no wonder this far-flung locale is among the destinations domestic airline SpiceJet (spicejet.com) is considering for its soon-to-launch seaplane service. It’s also the ideal setting for a boat rally: the inaugural Sail the Andamans yacht carnival…

WILD COAST TENTED LODGE Twenty-eight canvas “cocoons” await at this newcomer on the edge of Sri Lanka’s Yala National Park, where elephants, sloth bears, and leopards complete the safari experience (resplendentceylon.com). CAPELLA UBUD A Bill Bensley–designed retreat above the Wos River in the central foothills of Bali, with 22 tented suites enveloped by lush rain forest and equipped with saltwater plunge pools. Opening this spring (capellahotels.com). SHINTA MANI WILD Another Bill Bensley creation, this time in the wilds of Cambodia’s Southern Cardamom National Park. When it opens this summer, the riverside camp will evoke what it might have been like to “be on a luxury safari in the jungles of Cambodia with Jacky O” (shintamani.com). ROSEWOOD LUANG PRABANG Six 75-square-meter hilltop tents will be among the two dozen rooms, suites,…

Escapes to Gili Lankanfushi (gililankanfushi.com) are set to be even more invigorating this year, thanks to four international wellness practitioners who are visiting the Maldivian resort on short-term residencies. Author and entrepreneur Jasmine Hemsley will lead immersive sound bath sessions from March 12–19, and April 10–18 sees breath coach Rebecca Dennis teaching guests her transformational breathing technique to unblock emotions and discharge tension. Meditation guide and public speaker Jody Shield will be on hand from August 22–29, while hypnotherapist Chloe Brotheridge is running workshops on the island from November 10–17. Huvafen Fushi Also in the Maldives, Huvafen Fushi’s relaunched underwater spa has enlisted A-list skincare expert Teresa Tarmey as a resident beauty therapist, making it possible for guests to experience her signature facial eight meters below the waves (huvafenfushi.com). Four…

GUO FU LOU Hong Kong This one-Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant is relocating from its basement digs in Wan Chai to The Murray. With sensuous interiors by André Fu and terrace seating overlooking the new hotel’s courtyard, Guo Fu Lou’s next incarnation, set to open this spring, is high on our list of must-tries (marcopolohotels.com). THE ENGLISH HOUSE Singapore Anytime now, the onetime enfant terrible of British cooking Marco Pierre White will be opening this highly anticipated restaurant on Mohamed Sultan Road. Set in two adjoining colonial buildings, it will feature a menu of simple, reasonably priced classics like côte de boeuf and braised beef cheek (theenglishhouse.com). SUSHI SAITO Hong Kong April will see the debut of an outpost of Tokyo’s legendary Sushi Saito on the 45th floor of the Four Seasons…

JASMINE AT NEW WORLD MAKATI HOTEL Hong Kong chef Wong Kam On takes the helm at Jasmine, New World Makati Hotel’s popular Chinese restaurant, where crowd-pleasers include dim sum and barbecued delicacies, a selection of live seafood, and classic Peking duck served with thin pancakes. In true Cantonese tradition, Wong sources only the finest and freshest produce for his creations. Steamed Garoupa Fish in Superior Soy Sauce INGREDIENTS • 1 fresh garoupa, gutted and scaled at 500 g• 2 stalks spring onion, white part, 12 cm long• 3 stalks spring onion, green part, shredded• 7 slices ginger, coin-sized• 3 tbsp ginger, slivered• 2½ tbsp superior soy sauce• 2 tbsp chicken stock• 2½ tsp brown sugar• 2-3 tbsp peanut oil METHOD Rinse the fish, and place the white stalks of spring…

THE KASTURI Peninsular Malaysia’s east coast is ripe for a relaxing getaway thanks to the recent opening of a luxurious, small-scale resort. Less than an hour’s drive to the north of Kuantan, the Pahang state capital, The Kasturi overlooks a 1.3-kilometer-long beach near an estuary where the Pak Siak river empties into the South China Sea. Its 23 rooms are mostly beachfront pool villas—distinctive A-frame structures that feature private deck areas with gardens, outdoor showers, and more. The resort’s main building contains six single-bedroom suites, a two-bedroom penthouse, and four units of three-bedroom Forest Villa will be completed by the second quarter of 2018. Communal facilities here include a restaurant, bar, spa treatment rooms, and a beachfront 20-meter pool. Guests can enjoy kayaking to the sea along the mangrove-lined Pak…

Hong Kong JW MARRIOTT HONG KONG It pays to stay at least seven nights at this JW Marriott above Pacific Place mall, where savings of up to 40 percent are possible as part of its Attractive Long Stay package. Additional perks include 20 percent off hotel restaurants, the minibar, and in-room dining, along with the same discount on laundry and dry-cleaning services. A daily selection of up to three complimentary breakfast items from Dolce 88 deli makes for a light meal on the go before several hours of sightseeing or shopping (marriott.com). South Korea FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SEOUL Every two consecutive paid nights will get you a third night for free at Seoul’s high-rise Four Seasons, located an easy stroll from Gwanghwamun Square. Some of that extra time should be…

YOJIMBO Australian designer Ashley Sutton made his name with The Iron Fairies in Bangkok, and since then he’s been the force behind some of Asia’s most gorgeous bars. Yojimbo is his fourth outlet in Hong Kong in just two years, with a techno-neon-underground vibe pulled straight from the right kind of yakuza flick. Kimono-clad “geishas” weave through the crowd as dancers writhe above the bar. The drinks hold up too: head bartender Alberto Aldave, formerly of The Ritz London, creates cocktails that look as good as they taste. The namesake Yojimbo is a mix of gin, sake, yuzu, and champagne served in a ceramic sake bottle, while the Kill Bill–inspired Crazy 88—made with ginger-infused gin, passion fruit, and pineapple—comes topped with a katana-shaped piece of chocolate (37-43 Pottinger St.; 852/2576-1717;…

AILANTO A print-centric womenswear label based in Barcelona, Ailanto is the brainchild of twin Spanish brothers Iñaki and Aitor Muñoz, both of whom trained in fine arts and fashion design. Their creative flair is translated into designs that are strong on beautiful prints inspired by nature and art, such as the Monet-style water lilies that accent a pure silk evening caftan. The brothers’ work has been exhibited in museums throughout the world, including the Guggenheim in their native Bilbao, while their collections have been sold internationally since 1999, with acclaimed catwalk presentations at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. Beautifully patterned textiles and modern silhouettes mark their latest collection with inimitable style. COTE AND BADT Established by two Spanish friends who have been living in Asia for more than a decade,…

• EAT I love the local neighborhood diners known as cha chaan teng. My favorite is For Kee (852/2546-8947), on the corner of Tai Ping Shan Street and Pound Lane. It’s a family-run hole-in-the-wall that’s about 40 or 50 years old; they make these amazing dishes with pork chop that is tenderized and then cooked to order. You can have it on rice or in a bun, though I also recommend the sandwich of curry beef and caramelized onion. Over on Mallory Street in Wan Chai, Ho Wah Café (852/2574-3069) makes an excellent milk tea in friendly, atmospheric surrounds—the diner has expanded into a row of restored shophouses from the 1910s. Among the city’s last remaining dai pai dong, or traditional open-air food stalls, is Sing Heung Yuen (852/2544-8368) on Central’s…

On the banks of the Malacca River, as raindrops fall from a sky turned gunmetal gray by the northeast monsoon, Martin Theseira flashes a smile as wide and white as his thick moustache. The local guide and activist is about to show me a side of his hometown few visitors get to see. I climb into the passenger seat of his car, where a simple wooden cross hangs from the rearview mirror. Theseira cranks up the volume on the dashboard speakers, filling the air with Christmas songs in a melodic form of Portuguese that bears little resemblance to the kind spoken in Lisbon. It almost feels like I’ve been transported to another country. More than 500 years after soldiers led by Afonso de Albuquerque claimed the great Malay port city…

There’s nothing like finding a place that offers both the familiar comforts of home and the amenities of a fully serviced hotel. Whether you’re planning a week’s vacation or a longer stay in Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, Far East Hospitality’s portfolio of 10 serviced residences across three distinctive brands will suit the tastes of discerning travelers. No matter which one you choose, you can be assured that Far East Hospitality serviced residences will take care of the smaller details: booking taxis and day trips, providing a regular housekeeping service, and ensuring that your stay is as comfortable as ever. In Singapore, wellness-minded travelers can opt for the Oasia brand, centered on a mission to “Refresh, Refuel, and Recharge.” Oasia Residence provides a refreshing and restorative guest experience on the island’s…

DESIGN SOCIETY A collaboration with London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, the first major museum in China devoted to design debuted in December inside Shenzhen’s Sea World Culture and Arts Center (designsociety.cn). TANK SHANGHAI Opening in late 2018, art collector Qiao Zhibing’s visionary art center– cum–recreational facility is built around five decommissioned oil tanks on the banks of the Huangpu River (qiaocollection.com). WEST BUND ART MUSEUM This David Chipperfield–designed complex in Shanghai’s Xuhui Waterfront area is slated for completion by the end of the year, with an outpost of Paris’s Centre Pompidou expected to move in shortly after (westbund.com) TAI KWUN CENTER FOR HERITAGE & ARTS Come summer, the restored Central Police Station compound in Hong Kong’s Central district will get a new lease on life as a cultural hub featuring…

Ishikawa, Japan Butterfield & Robinson (butterfield.com) has rolled out an eight-day e-biking tour around Honshu’s Ishikawa prefecture, taking in the rugged Noto Peninsula, Kanazawa, and several hot spring towns. A fixed departure is set for October 17–24, though it can be booked as a custom trip. Southern Thailand Andaman Mangrove Explorer is a brand-new overnight SpiceRoads (spiceroads.com) cycling tour that winds through the farmlands of Phuket and Koh Yao Noi before crossing Phang Nga Bay to tackle the mainland’s back roads. Expect to visit a captivating mangrove forest with an elevated nature trail. Taiwan Those in the know have long viewed Taiwan as an ideal cycling destination, but the local tourism board is intent on getting the word out with the new website Taiwan on 2 Wheels (taiwanon2wheels.com). It’s a…

MANDARIN ORIENTAL Available from February 16 at a slew of Mandarin Oriental spas around the world, the Year of the Earth Dog Spa Experience is an 80-minute full-body treatment involving hot stone therapy and a soothing abdominal massage. Afterward, spa-goers will receive a red packet with an extra gift for the year ahead (mandarinoriental.com). FUSION RESORT CAM RANH Formerly known as Fusion Resort Nha Trang, this beachside Vietnamese spa haven has relaunched its wellness options with a firm family focus. Offerings on the new spa menu include yoga for children, daily meditation sessions, and a lotus body polish for mothers-to-be (fusionresortcamranh.com). SONEVA Throughout 2018, a new range of four-night wellness retreats will be offered at Soneva Kiri in Thailand and Soneva Fushi in the Maldives. Each one encompasses up to…

Tali Wiru In Australia’s Red Center, this intimate evening for a maximum of 20 diners begins with sunset champagne and canapés set to the haunting sound of a didgeridoo, followed by a lavish four-course dinner of bush tucker–inspired dishes atop a tali waru (“beautiful dune”) overlooking Uluru and the distant rock formations of Kata Tjuta (ayersrockresort.com.au). Ko Tahi te Ra This six-hour excursion to tribal lands deep in the central plateau of New Zealand’s North Island offers a fascinating insight into traditional Maori food culture. With chef, hunter, and tangata whenua (person of the land) Tom Loughlin as host, guests help prepare and eat a hangi cooking-pit feast before flying back to Taupo via helicopter (kaiwaho.co.nz). Dinner Overlooking the Taj Mahal Book a Taj Mahal–facing room at Agra’s Oberoi Amarvilas…

THERE WAS A TIME, NOT TOO LONG AGO, WHEN I went to great lengths to avoid Queensland’s Gold Coast. This was a disappointment for my father, who, as many Melburnians do, had migrated to the seaside city in search of a Florida-esque lifestyle. He couldn’t stop raving about his new home: the 300 days of sunshine a year, the 57-kilometer strip of coastline on his doorstep, the canal views from his waterside mansion (which he could afford given how reasonable property prices were). He offered to pay for my airfare if I visited. “But I won’t be able to get anything decent to eat, Dad. And I just can’t drink coffee that’s not single origin. And isn’t Surfers Paradise unsafe?” I’d plead my case for staying in Sydney. I caved…

IN AN ANCIENT BUILDING ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF SAN Antonio, a mariachi band struck up a waltz-time version of “El Justo Florecerá” (The Righteous Will Flourish). This was no ordinary performance, mind you, but rather the Sunday mariachi mass at the church of Mission San José y San Miguel de Aguayo, one of the oldest structures in the state of Texas and still an active place of worship. Like the regular churchgoers around me, I soon found myself tapping a beat on the nave’s venerable floor tiles as the service got underway. Later that same day, over on the north side of town, I witnessed a much different rite: the tagging and release of hundreds of black-and-orange monarch butterflies in the central plaza of the old Pearl Brewery. It was…

THE LIBRARY AT MANDAPA, A RITZCARLTON RESERVE Beneath a soaring thatched roof, The Library seats just 20 guests in an elegant yet relaxing environment amid the beauty of Bali’s south-central foothills. Its open-air design makes the most of the scenic surroundings, while Balinese artwork and hanging lamps cocooned in teardrop-shaped bamboo frames add to the sense of place—creating an ideal spot to enjoy afternoon tea, finger food at sunset, and pre-dinner drinks. From 5:30 to 7 p.m. every evening, guests can tickle their palates with Jelajah Indonesia, a special menu of inventive cocktails made using a diverse array of local ingredients drawn from across the Indonesian archipelago. Grown in the highlands of northern Sumatra and a close relative of the Sichuan peppercorn, andaliman is the star ingredient for one of…

NIGHT RIDER Given the chaos of Mumbai’s bustling daytime streets, it’s hard to imagine that the largest city in India ever gets quiet. It does—but you’ll have to forgo a night’s sleep to witness it. That’s where the Midnight Bicycle Ride run each Saturday by Reality Tours (realitytoursandtravel.com) comes in. Best known for its slum tours of Dharavi, where its sister NGO Reality Gives funds and operates educational programs, the community-driven company starts cyclists off in Colaba at 12 a.m., taking them through almost deserted streets past ethereally lit heritage buildings, eerily quiet beaches, sacred wells, and the world’s most expensive home, the 27-floor Antilia House, valued at upwards of US$1 billion. The seven-hour tour ends at Worli Fort, where you’ll arrive just in time for a spectacular sunrise with…

The tallest structure in Russia for almost 400 years, the Ivan the Great Bell Tower rises 81 meters above the Kremlin’s Cathedral Square, its gilt dome still as much of a Moscow landmark as ever. “This was one of my first stops during a weeklong visit to the Russian capital last summer,” recalls Austrian high school art teacher Wolfgang Krisai, an inveterate travel sketcher. “The tower and its adjacent four-story belfry are magnificent to behold and, if you’re there on a church holiday, to hear: together they house 21 bells, including the massive Great Assumption bell, cast from 65 tons of bronze in the early 1800s. But the Kremlin is a busy place, and a lot of people stopped to have a look at what I was doing and to…