Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2024 i delicious

Coral trout crudo with capers & verjuice vinaigrette, p 66 Somos Barbera Rosé 2022 (McLaren Vale, SA, $33) Pan-fried scallops with cafe de Paris butter, p 66 Cullen Dancing In The Sun Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Verdelho 2023 (Margaret River, WA, $32) Roasted snapper with salsa verde and lemon, p 70 Paxton Graciano 2022 (McLaren Vale, SA, $30, drink chilled) “I generally stick to one important rule with seafood – for dishes that come from the ocean, drink wines that are made by the ocean.”…

1 LAMB CUTLETS “Lamb is extremely expensive back home, so lamb cutlets are a luxury. When eating cutlets, you know you’re celebrating.” 2 CHILLIES “One of my memories of my dad is that he used to eat chilli like cucumbers. Zhoug was a condiment we always had in the fridge growing up” 3 BRUSSELS SPROUTS “Perhaps it’s because I wasn’t forced to eat them as a child that I love brussels sprouts now.” 4 PEARS “There is nothing better than a firm-but-juicy autumn pear. I think they are underused in desserts.” Food has always been about sharing, family and community for Michael Rantissi. Growing up in Tel Aviv, Israel, he would spend his days playing with neighbourhood children from a variety of cultural backgrounds, and enjoying shared meals at his own home and that…

RAISING THE BAR King and Godfree has further cemented its position as the reigning precinct of Melbourne’s Little Italy with the relaunch of rooftop bar Johnny’s Green Room. Under the warm glow of a custom Campari sign, there’s a cocktail list by Matthew Bax of the iconic Bar Americano, a food menu by Karen Martini that’ll whisk you straight to the Med and tunes from broadcaster Hope St Radio. JOHNNY’S GREENROOM Level 2/293-297 Lygon St, Carlton @johnnysgreenroom BAR OPEN! Merrick’s SHOUT Merrick Watts on his latest drinks discovery. Margaritas are a fun drink at any time of year, but they can be a little hit and miss. If I’m honest, my own attempts at making them have not been great. The most shameful being El Toro Tequila, ice scraped off the…

It’s time to talk chocolate. But let’s stay away from the usual debates about provenance, percentagesor whether white chocolate is actually chocolate, and talk about something useful. Like whether chocolate goes with everything. On the surface, my answer would be a resounding “yes”. I’ve eaten crisp discs of white choc dolloped with caviar, and broken shards of dark chocolate with gently stewed eggplant. But while whipping blue cheese into your chocolate mousse might make scientific sense, get it wrong and that mousse is on the fast track to the compost bin. I’d also say that adding chocolate to most vegetables will not end well – even if that is a single estate 80% from Venezuela you’re grating over your broccoli. Perhaps the most helpful way to progress this debate is…

Standing in the alley outside Baba’s Place, we have to keep halting our interview as yet another Sydney Airport arrival roars overhead. Inner-west residents are well-accustomed to life under the flight path, and Jean-Paul (JP) El Tom and Alex Kelly don’t miss a beat between A380s and Boeings. The high-school friends are deep into explaining the ethos of the restaurant they co-founded in 2022 with James Bellos, sandwiched between factories and processing plants in the Marrickville backstreets. Behind the roller doors of a former warehouse, diners stumble into a suburban living room – all frilly doilies, plastic-covered furniture and faded rugs. Baba’s Place is a shrine to suburbia, the epicentre of so much migrant culture in Australia. The suburbs are the backdrop against which many try to reclaim a sense…

“A cake that has it all: sweet, sour, fluffy, sugar-crusted crunch and luxurious filling. And then the sponge! Sunshine gold to lift any mood. My secret is ground turmeric in the batter, offsetting the sweetness. The idea for the lemon mascarpone centre came from Tonia George in a magazine cutting I have held onto for 15 years. I will be forever grateful to her, as this might just be my favourite cake.” SPICE SWITCH: “For the cardamom, lemon and ginger drizzle, substitute the turmeric and poppy seeds in the sponge with the ground seeds of 5 green cardamom pods.” SPICE SWITCH:“Use 2 tsp garam masala or a mixture of 1½tsp ground cinnamon and½ tsp ground allspice. I like to add salt for that salty-sweet vibe.” “Get ready for the most addictive…

EAT Sunset Food and Wine: Put this talented chef and gorgeous setting almost anywhere on mainland Australia, and you might need to book a table months in advance. Roll off the Penneshaw ferry and, 15 minutes later, you can be settled on the verandah here and taking in the view across the bay, over tasting menus starting at only $85. The Enchanted Fig Tree: Tables are set within the tangled canopy of a century-old fig tree at the dining experience run by Nick Hannaford, whose family have been custodians of this Snelling Beach property for several generations. Each summer/autumn, he works with hand-picked chefs who each put their own spin on a series of courses featuring locally grown ingredients. Amadio’s Vino e Cucina: Discover warm Italian hospitality at this cheery…

“I could entertain the idea of being out in nature in any weather, as long as there was a warm fire, thick hot chocolate and a cinnamon bun waiting at the end.” “Look, another one!” Twelve heads turn in the hope of getting a glimpse of a whale, splashing in the surf on the starboard side. The Observation Lounge, with its cosy armchairs and large panoramic windows, has quickly become one of my favourite spots on board. I come here for sea-gazing and afternoon tea, complete with freshly baked scones, whipped cream and thick strawberry jam. Today, I’m not the only one. We’re just below the Arctic Circle, making our way to Akureyri – the sleepy capital of the Icelandic North. The ship is entering Eyjafjörður, one of the largest…

Only one holiday unleashes nearly as much frenzied, joyful, messy and abundant cooking as Christmas at delicious., and that’s Easter. Like all the best celebrations, food is an inextricable part of the festivities. From lamb roasts with all the trimmings – perfected over generations of Sunday lunches – to the seafood feasts that only seem to get more extravagant with each passing Good Friday, Easter is an opportunity for every avid entertainer to prove their chops. And that’s before we even get to the baking… If you’re one of those home cooks who’s never happier than when you’re covered in a light dusting of flour, knocking back dough or blind-baking crusts, this is the issue for you. Be it Ottolenghi’s best-ever chocolate cake or Nornie Bero’s take on the bite-size…

CURATED BY REBECCA BUTTROSE: @rebecca_buttrose…

Despite the adage, there might not always be “plenty more fish in the sea”. But by choosing to purchase seafood that has been caught sustainably, you can help to ensure the long-term wellbeing of our oceans. This way, the seafood species that we know and love can continue to survive and thrive in healthy marine ecosystems. What is sustainable fishing? Sustainable fishing is responsible fishing. It means using methods that cause the least harm and promote the most biodiversity. “It demands quality over quantity,” says chef Josh Niland, who is world-renowned for his sustainable ‘fin-to-tail’ approach to seafood. “We should be catching fish in a more intentional manner. Produce Awards-winners Luke Buchholz [Nautical Wholesale Seafood], Chris Bolton, Ben Collison – they all go out on small vessels, throw in a…

I was never a fan of hot cross buns, so I decided to make a bun I that I love. I use plenty of fruit, the right amount of fresh spices and an enriched dough with butter and eggs. Even the glaze is a spiced brown sugar glaze, to give them that final soft, sweet and spicy taste. It took a few years to tweak and perfect, but we’ve been named as having the best hot cross buns in Melbourne a few times now, and I’m very proud and happy with this recipe. HOT CROSS BUNS MAKES 12 Begin this recipe a day ahead. You’ll need a piping bag with a 3/5mm plain nozzle. ½ cup each currants, sultanas and raisins1 cup (250ml) milk, plus 1 tbs extra1 medium orange500g…

Who doesn’t love a good doughnut? So many countries have their own version, from churros and loukoumades to bomboloni, berliners and beignets – the love of doughnuts extends all over the world. So why not add a native Australian twist? I love making lokma, or Egyptian doughnuts, because they’re easy to prepare and you can use your hands which, in my opinion, enhances the flavour. Trust me, you won’t be able to stop at just one of these – they’re so addictive. Wattleseed adds hints of hazelnut, coffee and bitter chocolate, and as the generous drizzle of native aromatic syrup soaks into the fried dough, with every bite, those flavours ooze out, giving you layered textures of sweet goodness. Strawberry gum marries so well with the wattleseed, giving those fruity…

GINGER & GARLIC MUSHROOMS SERVES 6 (AS A SIDE) 300g enoki mushrooms100ml vegetable oil300g king oyster mushrooms, thickly sliced lengthways100g shiitake mushrooms, stems removed1 tbs sesame oil10cm piece (50g) fresh ginger, cut into matchsticks6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced150g each oyster and pearl mushrooms⅓ cup (80ml) oyster sauce1 tbs Chinese rice wine (shaohsing)1 tsp chicken stock powder½ tsp white pepperCooked jasmine rice, to serve (optional) Cut and discard most of the root from the enoki mushrooms, leaving some root intact so they stay clumped together. Divide into 6 smaller clumps. Heat 1 tbs vegetable oil in a large frypan and cook half the king oyster and shiitake mushrooms for 2 minutes each side or until golden and tender. Set aside on a baking tray. Repeat with another 1 tbs oil and…

“If you ever see me at the supermarket, chances are I’ll have a caramel mud cake in my basket. It is my favourite mass-produced treat and resolutely non-guilty pleasure. Alas, so many attempts to re-create it left me disheartened – until I dabbled with chicory, a caffeine-free coffee substitute. When mixed with dark brown sugar, chicory imparts butterscotch-adjacent notes. The sticky, finger-dipping-good dark caramel ganache really ties the whole cake together, so I have allowed for more than this cake needs. Warm any excess to pour over ice cream.” “Pink-icing-and-coconut-strewn buns were my Friday school canteen treat. My adult finger buns are back from a Sicilian sabbatical and studded with dried fruit, zingy with lemon frosting and topped with crunchy and bright fresh pistachio. Enjoy them with a slick or…

RECIPE NOTE: To make individual puddings like the ones on p 34, divide batter and topping between 4 ramekins and bake for 20 minutes. CARAMEL & DARK CHOCOLATE FUDGE MAKES A 20CM SQUARE You’ll need a 20cm square cake pan and a sugar thermometer. 230g brown sugar⅓ cup (80ml) milk65g salted butter, chopped2 x 395g cans sweetened condensed milk1 tsp vanilla bean paste300g dark (70%) chocolate, chopped Grease a 20cm square cake pan and line with baking paper. Place sugar, milk, butter and half a can of condensed milk in a medium saucepan. Stir over low heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to high. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture reaches 115°C on a sugar thermometer. Remove from heat and stir through vanilla. Meanwhile, place remaining condensed milk and chocolate in a medium…

Food and Beverage Director at The Point Group, Alex Kirkwood recently returned to Beaune after a few years’ absence, and his love for this town at the centre of the Burgundy winemaking region has been well and truly reignited. What makes this location special? I feel like everyone has those places they just have a special connection to. Even with my horrendous ability when it comes to speaking the native language, I manage to get by through a shared love of food and wine, as this is the real local language in Beaune. The town has a unique warmth to it, and while it could be considered to have an air of elitism due to the historic nature of the town and peaks of extravagant viticultural land that surround it,…

Follow us on social —@deliciousaus #makeitdelicious WHAT YOU’RE LOVING… 1,911 LIKES, 190 COMMENTS We turned Australia’s favourite biscuit into an Easter bakery treat. Presenting our Iced VoVo hot cross buns. Find the recipe and more sweet and savoury hot cross bun ideas at delicious.com.au RECIPE: @helena_marieee PHOTO: @bendearnley STYLING: @kirstenljenkins LETTER OF THE MONTH… We are so lucky to live in a country where multiculturalism is celebrated. And what better time than Lunar New Year to embrace the exotic foods on offer from some of these cultures? The February issue of delicious. was packed with mouthwatering recipes, and I’ve already marked several to try over the coming weeks. This week, I’ve made Junda Khoo’s delicious smoked salmon & egg mayo baked taters and Indomie goreng. And they oozed ho jiak!…

Fresh TAKE Our Digital Editor and dining expert Erina Starkey on what’s what’s hot right now. The American-style diner is having a revival. The retro-inspired trend delivers a hefty slice of nostalgia, and sometimes a slice of cherry pie, too. WHAT’S HOT: Since the burger boom of 2015, our appetite for US foods has risen almost as high as our cholesterol levels. Our latest obsession is for the feel-good foods of the '50s: stacks of flapjacks, waffles with bacon and crispy potato home fries, all served by an apron-clad waitress named Shelley who calls you “hon”. "hon". WHY: From its red vinyl bar stools to its chrome counters and chequerboard floors, there’s there’s something deeply nostalgic about the American diner. Like a scene in a movie, we want to sit alone and read…

Bruce Collis might be a fisherman, but he also sees himself as a custodian of the ocean. Each morning, he heads out in a small vessel to fish the pristine waters of Corner Inlet, Victoria. This vast area is home to a range of species, from King George whiting and southern garfish to seals, whales and seabirds. “As custodians, we’re out there fishing every day,” he says. “We can see change or things going wrong. We report it, to ensure it’s fixed, and so the industry remains sustainable.” Collis utilises an environmentally friendly method of fishing known as ‘seine netting’. This encloses fish instead of trapping them. “The fish swim around in the net; we use small dip nets to catch the ones we want, and all the bycatch and…

Set in a pocket of Victoria’s High Country, the Milawa Cheese Company has gifted Australia with its own icon: Milawa Blue. This banger was born in the late ’80s and was the love child of David Brown, his wife Annie and an old mate, Richard Thomas. They set out with a dream to merge Australia’s dairy heritage with classic European cheesemaking. Today, this legacy is carried forward by their daughter Ceridwen. Milawa Blue is an Aussie take on Gorgonzola Dolce and a testament to cheese artistry, combining traditional techniques with local, high-quality milk. Each wheel is carefully turned and brushed by hand during its three-month stay in the purpose-built maturation facility known as ‘the cave’. It’s a blue that’s hard to hate. With its creamy texture and striking blue veins,…

This recipe, adapted from Sweet by Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh, first appeared in an article written about Goh when she ran her cafe, the Mortar & Pestle, in Melbourne. Rather intimidatingly for her, the headline for the article was ‘World’s Best Chocolate Cake’. It could actually be called lots of things: ‘world’s easiest cake’, requiring nothing more than a large bowl to make it in. Or ‘most versatile cake’, given that it can be served without icing and just a light dusting of cocoa, or dressed up to the nines as it is here, with a layer of chocolate ganache and espresso cinnamon mascarpone cream. WORLD’S BEST CHOCOLATE CAKE SERVES 12 Begin this recipe at least 5 hours ahead. 250g unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 1cm cubes,…

For chef Kimmy Gastmeier, baking is like magic. “When I learned to do bread, sourdough and wood-firing, I had that ‘aha’ moment – like, oh my god, this is it,” she says. “Having that living fermentation in my hands, all the work that went into the dough and bringing it together with fire, the alchemy of those things coming together… I wanted to follow that.” From that initial spark came the idea for Cherry Moon, a neighbourhood bakery and cafe centred around a custom-built woodfired oven (“I tracked down a 75-year-old man who knew how to build a special type of oven, and got an old Scotch oven facade from 1869 off of Gumtree,” Gastmeier says). Pair that with hyperlocal produce – the fig leaves used in her signature sourdough…