Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2022 i delicious

I THINK WE CAN all agree that there’s so much to love about Italy. The history, the architecture, the language and the romance of it all – and of course, the food. Where would we be without pasta? It doesn’t bear thinking about. And this is why, each year, we dedicate an entire issue to la dolce vita – that is, the sweet life of indulging in all things Italian. Nigel Ward kicks things off with a snapshot of his menu at new Sydney venue Passeggiata on p 13, then we celebrate the return of Orazio D’Elia to Bondi’s Da Orazio with a colourful spread made for entertaining on p 60. Further afield, Michelin-starred British chef Angela Hartnett shares a preview of her new book The Weekend Cook on p…

THE VENUE: Coriole Restaurant, Chaffeys Rd, McLaren Vale. THE VIBE: If you were a chef in SA, the gig at Coriole would be pretty hard to beat. This cellar door restaurant is set in a semi-enclosed courtyard with the loveliest of cottage gardens to one side, and a mesmerising view across McLaren Vale’s productive patchwork on the other. Still, for Coriole’s newly appointed head chef Patty Streckfuss, this dream job comes with one potential pitfall. For the previous four years, under the direction of Tom Tilbury and his Gather brand, the venue has been at the pinnacle. WHAT’S COOKING? Menu structure, pricing and presentation remain the same. More importantly, the link with Coriole’s gardens and curated network of local suppliers feels as strong as ever. If anything, you will discover…

CHEESY BAKED POLENTA IN TOMATO SAUCE (COVER RECIPE) SERVES 4 “THIS HEARTY MAIN NEEDS NOTHING MORE THAN SOME LIGHTLY COOKED GREENS.” FOR THE POLENTA 660ml milk 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle 200g instant polenta 60g roughly grated parmesan FOR THE SAUCE 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil 2 small onions (360g total), peeled and finely chopped 6 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp chilli flakes 10g fresh oregano leaves 2 x 400g cans plum tomatoes, roughly crushed by hand 1 tsp caster sugar 200g fontina cheese or buffalo mozzarella, very thinly sliced FOR THE TOPPING 30g finely grated parmesan 11/2 tbs finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves 1/4 tsp chilli flakes For the polenta, lay a 40cm x 30cm piece of baking…

GROWING UP, ITALY was one of my favourite places to visit. It was friendly and affordable; you could establish instant rapport by discussing football or motor racing; and something else delicious to eat revealed itself on every visit. There are few cuisines that we can rhapsodise about more than Italian. Almost everyone can name a handful of Italian dishes, even just the ‘p’ ones: pizza, polenta, pasta, pesto … The geographical, historical and political isolation of the cities and regions that make up this culinary powerhouse, however, means there are so many hidden gems. In honour of the Italian issue, here are my favourites. FONTINA The north of Italy might be famous for white truffles, risotto and red-wine braises, but until you’ve had polenta or Italian fondue in Aosta Valley…

STYLE “I’ve changed my entertaining style over the years. Before, I was stuck in the kitchen. Now, I’ll start with some snacks, then do three dishes, put them all on the table, and everyone shares.” MENU “For the food, it’s all about being fresh, beautiful, and also easy – the beauty of Italian cuisine is its simplicity. We don’t have 20 ingredients in our tomato pasta. You just need fresh tomatoes, some pasta, and finish it with basil and Parmigiano – that is Italian cuisine.” DRINKS “A spritz is easy, beautiful, and colourful. It sits well in everyone’s hands. But I also love my wine – I’ll always have a couple of nice white wines, a few reds. And then at the end we could have some dessert wine, or…

“THIS SAUCE IS BASED ON THE ITALIAN CHICKEN CACCIATORE, WHICH TRANSLATES TO ‘HUNTER’S STEW’. TRADITIONALLY IT IS MADE WITH TOMATOES, BUT I PREFER THE LIGHTNESS AND BRIGHTNESS THAT COMES WITH SIMMERING THE CHICKEN THIGHS JUST IN WHITE WINE. IF YOU CAN, GRAB A LOCAL WHITE .” FOR MANY YEARS now, pasta making has been my self-care ritual. Like the practice of meditation, making pasta by hand has been a way for me to achieve self-discovery and mindfulness, all with delicious results. Now, pair that with a long weekend away at a beautiful farmhouse and we’ve got relaxation and respite. I’m going to take a punt that if you’re reading this, you too use food as a way to unwind, be it reading a cookbook or magazine, pottering in the kitchen…

“STEVIE G [HARTNETT’S NEIGHBOUR] MAKES A GREAT PUTTANESCA, PERFECT FOR A RELAXED SUPPER. THIS IS HIS RECIPE. THE BEAUTY OF THIS SAUCE IS THAT YOU CAN ADAPT IT TO MAKE IT WORK FOR YOU – SPLASH IN SOME RED WINE FOR ADDED FINESSE, OR MAKE IT SPICIER WITH ADDED PEPERONCINO, RICHER WITH MORE BLACK OLIVES, OR MORE ACID WITH ADDED CAPERS.” SPAGHETTI CARBONARA “DON’T MESS AROUND WITH THIS CLASSIC PASTA DISH. NOTHING ELSE IS NEEDED TO MAKE IT PERFECT; IT’S LIKE PINEAPPLE ON PIZZA – YOU JUST DON’T DO IT. IF YOU CAN’T SOURCE GUANCIALE THEN USE A GOOD-QUALITY PANCETTA.” SERVES 4 20g salted butter 100g diced guanciale or pancetta 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Pinch of dried chilli 370g dried spaghetti 3 large eggs, well beaten 50g Pecorino Romano…

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OUR MOST-LIKED POST If you love bread and butter pudding, just wait until you try @chefmattmoran’s boozy rum and raisin bread version. He’s taking inspiration from everyone’s favourite chocolate block to take this Brit classic to a whole new level. Find the recipe at delicious.com.au Recipe: @chefmattmoran Photography: @bendearnley Styling: @kirstenljenkins COOK THE ISSUE: I purchased the March 2022 for my mother whilst in hospital and what an amazing edition of excellent recipes. One of the best editions to date…. Every recipe needs to be cooked. Gemma Carroll THE WINNER IS... I have enjoyed reading delicious . for many years. My cooking skills, knowledge of new techniques and ingredients have expanded with every issue. I now have three delightful grandchildren and have already begun cooking with them! Teresa Brook ED’S…

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1 Ori’s Bar, Sydney After a focaccia con pordatta at Da Orazio, pop next door for housmade limoncell and stuzzichino snack . 2 Rocco's Bologna Discoteea, Medoume This late-nigh Italian bar in Fitz r oy serves the best tried mortadella sandwich in town - and that's no baloney! 3 Bar Sasso, Brisbane Brisbane's sassiest Ibdian bistro has added a slick new bar next deer that offers 16 variations of the negroni. For more on the latest restaurant, cafe and bar reviews, head to delicious.com.au/eat-out…

THIS RECIPE USES a classic base to bring different lands together – from the tiny islands of my home to the big island of Australia, all inspired by the  seaside tastes of Italy. As a little girl growing up on a tropical island, I loved sinking my feet into the sand at the edge of the water and feeling the pipis move under my feet. We used to collect them by the bucket-load as kids and bring them back to cook up at home. With no extra salt needed, this recipe gets its saltiness from the sea parsley and samphire – naturally infused with sea salt, bringing the flavour of the ocean to the dish. I’ve also brought the land to the sea by adding native Australian bush tomatoes in…

TUSCAN LAMB SHANKS WITH PEAS, EGGS & PECORINO SERVES 4 “I LOVE SLOW COOKING SECONDARY CUTS LIKE BEEF CHEEKS AND LAMB SHANKS UNTIL THEY FALL APART – IT’S THE BEST KIND OF COSY WINTER MEAL AND PERFECT FOR ENTERTAINING.” 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 1/4 cup (35g) plain flour 4 x 450g trimmed lamb shanks 4 cloves garlic, crushed 100g pancetta, rind removed, thinly sliced 1 cup (250ml) dry white wine 4 cups (1L) beef stock 1 sprig bay leaves 1 cup (120g) frozen peas, thawed (we used Woolworths Macro frozen peas) 4 eggs 2 tbs lemon juice 1 cup (80g) finely grated pecorino 1 cup (80g) finely grated parmesan Crusty bread, to serve Heat oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium-high heat. Season flour with salt flakes…

PICI: Perfect with chicken cacciatore. Make your desired quantity of semolina dough following the recipe on the left. Cut off a small chunk of dough, approx. 5cm x 2cm, and roll it into a sausage, about 1.5cm thick. Cut it in half or into thirds, depending on how long your dough sausage is. Keep the rest of the dough covered with a tea towel to stop it drying out. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough lengths, one by one, between the surface and the palms of your hands, gently pulling the dough outwards as you roll into noodles approximately 15cm long and 3mm thick. Your noodles will look slightly squiggly and uneven – embrace it. Leave the noodles on a shallow tray well-dusted with semolina flour, to…

TIRAMISU SEMIFREDDO “With rich flavours and creamy textures, these traditional Italian desserts are the perfect way to finish any meal, with or without an espresso!”@geodoes SERVES 6-8 Begin this recipe at least 6 hours ahead. 11/2 cups (375ml) espresso, plus 1 tbs extra 1/4 cup (60ml) Frangelico 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar 4 eggs, separated 2 cups (500ml) thickened cream 1 tsp vanilla extract 100g mascarpone, at room temperature 1 tbs Dutch cocoa powder, plus extra to dust 20 savoiardi biscuits In a small bowl, combine espresso and Frangelico and set aside. Place sugar and egg yolks in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whisk until pale and creamy. Transfer to a bowl. Wipe stand mixer bowl clean. Place cream and vanilla extract in the clean stand…

“LIKE MANY, I REDISCOVERED THE JOYS OF TRAVELLING LOCALLY DURING THE PANDEMIC.” You need to pronounce it with your hands,” she tells me. “It’s much easier.” I’m standing on the roadside, surrounded by 10-foot wine bottles, struggling to pronounce the word ‘montepulciano’ and wondering if I tumbled down a rabbit hole a while back without realising. I contemplate the riddle momentarily, but come up empty. I must be staring at Cassie of Bella Vita Riverina Tours blankly, because she proceeds to demonstrate. “Monte-pool-chyano,” she enunciates, hands out in front, fingertips together, emphasising each syllable with a gentle circling of her wrists. She grins like a Cheshire Cat as the understanding spreads across my face. “Ohhhh,” I offer, sheepishly. She’s right, of course. You do need to pronounce it with your…

The island of Giudecca may only be a 10-minute vaporetto (waterbus) ride from Saint Mark’s Square, but might as well be in another country, so rarely is it visited by the hordes of the tourists that historically crowded the piazzas and alleys around the Doge’s Palace. For those who do make the short trip from the San Zaccaria ferry stop, Giudecca is a revelation – tranquil, dotted with secret gardens, artisan’s workshops, shipyards, grocer’s shops, bakeries and laundries, reflecting the real life of a neighbourhood, not one performed for visitors. The Giudecca, as it is known, is a curve of eight islets connected by canals, with expansive views of Venice back across the channel. Its elegant 1.7km waterfront promenade, or fondamenta, is dotted with bars and trattorias and crossed by…

ORECCHIETTE WITH CIME DI RAPA & ‘NDUJA SERVES 4 2 bunches (600g total) cime di rapa 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1/4 tsp chilli flakes 250g cherry tomatoes 1 cup (250ml) vegetable stock 1/4 cup (50g) ‘nduja (spreadable salami, from Italian grocers and delis) 6 anchovies, finely chopped 400g orecchiette Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon Finely grated parmesan, to serve Separate cime di rapa stalks and leaves. Finely slice stalks and roughly chop leaves. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and chilli flakes and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes or until garlic turns golden. Add cime di rapa stalks, tomatoes and stock and cook, stirring regularly, for 8 minutes or until…

@erinastarkey WHAT A PEARLER Snap up a seat at Melbourne’s new Pearl Chablis and Oyster Bar. The elegant CBD venue boasts an impressive selection of freshly shucked shellfish, served chilled, grilled, or au naturel . Order individually or by degustation, which lets you taste your way around Australia’s pre-eminent oyster-growing regions. Enhance the minerality with a crisp glass of chardonnay from the Chablis library, which contains more than 500 bottles from Burgundy. TABLETALK 1 Suit up. New Zealand fashion label Rodd & Gunn has just opened a luxe new restaurant inside its Brisbane City store. The Lodge Bar & Dining invites you to kickstart your spending spree with Champagne and oysters, or cap off a successful shopping session with a splashy three-course meal. Like the brand itself, the menu will…

A: Come on then, what crazy thing have you come up with this month? C: Crazy good, you mean! We’re doing meatballs, but not your average ‘balls. A: Of course we’re not, and we’re onto balls already. Great. C: You love it. So we’re going to make our meatballs with beef mince and a bit of that spicy sausage ‘nduja. A: Go on… C: But they’ll be stuffed with pesto and cheese – you can say it: I’m a genius. A: I’m not sure I’d go that far and, of course, once again you’re messing with a classic, but at least you’ve kept with the Italian theme for once. C: Fass-talian! A: Always a pun ready. I’m not sure about the pesto, but I don’t mind the idea of cheese-stuffed…

“CIAO, BELLO!” Orazio D’Elia calls through the open louvred windows to a passer-by, who pauses for a quick chat. A few moments before, a couple had peered through at the Italian apple pie laid out on a table for our shoot, asking questions and (probably) menu planning. D’Elia turns back to me, smiling. “Everyone likes to say hi here.” It’s the early afternoon, and sunlight beams into Da Orazio, D’Elia’s restaurant off the busy Hall Street hub of Bondi. Locals will know that this isn’t a debut, but more a homecoming for the popular Italian spot, where D’Elia was previously head chef until 2018. The restaurant – D’Elia’s first love, as he calls it – is back for a second run, and diners can expect more of what made it…

MOZZARELLA RAVIOLI WITH CONFIT ZUCCHINI AND PECORINO PANGRATTATO “FILLED PASTAS ARE ONE OF MY TOP SHORTCUT INGREDIENTS WHEN I WANT AN IMPRESSIVE DINNER IN A HURRY – AND THERE'S SO MUCH YOU CAN DO WITH THEM!”@helena_marieee SERVES 4 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil 1/2 tsp chilli flakes 1/4 cup sage leaves, finely chopped 500g zucchini, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 500g store-bought fresh buffalo milk mozzarella ravioli (from gourmet grocers) PECORINO PANGRATTATO 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil 2 cups (100g) fine sourdough breadcrumbs 30g pecorino, finely grated 1/2 tsp chilli flakes Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add chilli flakes and sage and cook, stirring continuously, for 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Reduce heat to low, add zucchini and garlic, then cover…

“I LOVE THE REGAL PURPLE TONES OF THIS RISOTTO, WHICH I’VE TOPPED WITH A SPOONFUL OF MASCARPONE AND A SCATTERING OF CRISPY GARLIC AND ROSEMARY.”@geodoes BRAISED LENTILS WITH GRILLED RADICCHIO AND SALAMI SERVES 4 1 radicchio, cut into 8-10 wedges 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 100g salami, sliced into thin rounds 1 cup each flat-leaf parsley and mint leaves 125g burrata BRAISED LENTILS 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil 2 eschalots, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1/2 bunch thyme 250g puy (French green) lentils 3 cups (750ml) chicken or vegetable stock 2 tbs balsamic vinegar 1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves, finely chopped For the braised lentils, heat half the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add eschalot, garlic and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, for…

ALMOND & CHOCOLATE TOZZETTI “THESE ARE SIX OF MY FAVOURITE COOKIES – FROM CLASSIC TWICE-BAKED TOZZETTI TO SPANGLY SAVOIARDI (ALSO EXCELLENT IN TIRAMISU), TO GLUTEN- AND DAIRY-FREE NUT-BASED ONES, THE KIND THAT LOOK UNASSUMING AND TASTE SENSATIONAL!” MAKES 40 2 eggs, plus 3 egg yolks 350g caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 3 cups (450g) self-raising flour, sifted 20g unsalted butter, melted 200g blanched almonds 150g dark chocolate chips Preheat oven to 190°C and line a large baking tray with baking paper. Place eggs, egg yolks, sugar and vanilla in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat until pale and creamy. Add flour, butter and a pinch of salt flakes, and mix to combine. Stir in the almonds and chocolate chips. Using floured hands,…