Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2020 i delicious

WELCOME TO OUR very first zero-waste issue. When we first started our zero-waste column a few years ago, it was inspired by conversations with our food director Phoebe Wood. Phoebe grew up in the Blue Mountains, outside Sydney, with a family who grew their own vegetables, and bottled and preserved anything they had left over each season. I was fascinated with Phoebe’s tips and tricks – not only is she a fantastic trained cook and a great recipe writer, she has a knack for making the ugliest things delicious, whether it is fennel-frond pasta or bottom-of-the-fridge kimchi. So our semi-regular section and an early blog began, and over the years our passion grew. We’ve had lots of conversations with chefs, cooks, producers, suppliers, charity leaders and distillers who shared excellent…

1. Ever Eco Nut Milk Bag, $16.95, evereco.com.au 2. Urban Greens Micro Herbs Windowsill Grow Kit, $49.95, urbangreens.com.au 3. Go for Zero organic shopping bag, $24.95, goforzero.com.au 4. Ever Eco straight glass straws straight, $18.95 (for a pack of 4), evereco.com.au 5. Seed & Sprout pantry jars, $49 (for 2), seedsprout.com.au 6. The Swag Lunch Swag, $14.95, theswag.com.au 7. Sustomi beeswax bread wrap, $24.95, sustomi.com.au 8. Green + Kind bamboo cutlery set, $19.95, greenandkind.com 9. Large reusable stretch lids- set of 6, $35, from Seed & Sprout, seedsprout.com.au 10. Dish & Laundry solid soap, $14.95 (200g), theaustraliannaturalsoapcompany.com.au 11. Go for Zero bamboo dish and bottle brushes, $13.95 each, goforzero.com.au 12. Urban Greens Kitchen Herbs Grow Kit, $24.95, urbangreens.com.au…

“Celery leaves are packed with flavour, especially when dried. Pick the leaves from your bunch of celery, wash them well and dehydrate them. You can add any left over wilted herbs to this too, a sad bunch of parsley or tarragon would work really well. When dried and ground you will produce a vibrant green powder. It’s perfect with potatoes and great with eggs.”- Jo Barrett COMING UP WITH dishes that makes them two of Australia’s best chefs comes naturally for Jo Barrett and Matt Stone, and so does creating ways to make sure nothing is thrown away when preparing their sought-after menus. “Making and using everything is something I have always believed in and it’s a way I’ve always cooked,” says Barrett who shows what this philosophy is about…

“To use up stale bread I make a panzanella salad, or a frozen stuffing for chicken or fish, and breadcrumbs for crumbing fish.”– Josh Niland “WE ALL FIND ourselves with excess bread,” says Darren Robertson, ”but luckily there are plenty of ways to turn those unused slices into something really tasty.” From a decked-out bread-and-butter pudding to your new go-to roast chook, “these easy recipes will help you use every crumb,” he says. “Bread is one everyday ingredient that presents so many opportunities to embrace really easy waste-free cooking.” @darrenrobertsonfood FRENCH TOAST, CARAMELISED PEARS AND RICOTTA SERVES 6 3 eggs 150ml milk 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon Pinch freshly grated nutmeg Finely grated zest of1/2 lemon 6 thick-cut slices day-old white bread 60g unsalted butter, chopped 2 tbs extra virgin olive…

“Add stale bread to homemade soup or sprinkle over pasta. If you cut it into chunks and stir into the soup for the last 10 minutes it will turn into a yummy bread dumpling.”– Ronni Kahn “You can use any kind of smoked salmon here – HONEY SMOKED OR FLAVOURED with black pepper.” “If you don’t have the exact ingredients needed for a recipe, work with similar produce and what you have on hand. Look at it as a chance to get creative with dishes.” CREAM CHEESE, SMOKED SALMON & SMOKED TROUT SAUCE SERVES 6-8 250g cream cheese, softened 100g smoked salmon, finely chopped 140g hot smoked ocean trout or salmon, skin removed, flaked Zest and juice of 1 lemon, plus extra wedges to serve 1 bunch dill, leaves picked,…

Introducing our panel of incredible guest editors, who we selected thanks to their thought leadership on the topic of waste. Championing a more sustainable approach through their businesses as well as in their personal lives, they work to inspire and encourage you to cook and eat smarter, not harder, with the benefit of a positive impact on the planet, as well as your budget. ACCORDING TO GOVERNMENT statistics, food waste costs the Australian economy $20 billion a year, with more than five million tonnes of food ending up in landfill. Roughly one in five shopping bags of groceries ends up in the bin, yet nearly four million people experience food insecurity each year. It sounds dire, but the innovators in these pages and this entire issue is here to help…

WINTER ENTERTAINER Silverbeet galette 2015 Croser Vintage Sparkling Veal cutlets and herb stem gremolata 2018 Petaluma Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay Coconut yoghurt cake 2010 Petaluma Essence Botrytis “Petaluma’s cold-weather-friendly wines from the Adelaide Hills pair perfectly with any meal. To start, spark the palate with the Croser Vintage Sparkling. To complement the veal cutlets, opt for the Petaluma Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay. The zest and oak flavours will work well with the hearty dish. Finish the night with a special wine, Petaluma Essence Botrytis. The acidity will balance beautifully with the coconut yoghurt cake.” Mike Mudge, Winemaker, Petaluma EASY DOES IT Spiced eggplant with labneh and mint frittata Harkham Aziza’s Rosé 2019 (Hunter Valley, NSW) No-waste tomato and sausage bolognese Brave New Wine Rude Boy Red 2019 (Great Southern, WA) Herb, corn…

VEAL CUTLETS “Veal is a byproduct of the dairy industry and it makes sense to use it. You can’t necessarily interchange it with regular beef – the meat hasn’t developed a lot of fat, but there’s good flavour. The cutlets are great with just a quick go in the pan or on the barbecue, or roasted and basted with brown butter, rosemary and garlic.” CAULIFLOWER “Buy cauliflower that hasn’t had the leaves trimmed off. They’re delicious and a great way to reduce waste. Plus, they look magnificent with all their leaves attached – I’d love a bouquet of them. Chuck them in a stir-fry or use them as you would spinach. They’re best cooked or use them in kimchi or sauerkraut.” BEETROOT “I love the earthy flavour of beetroot. I…

IN 2012, I partnered with a brilliant team to realise a vision: to create a sustainable restaurant that served food made from scratch with produce sourced from ethical growers, all while generating no waste. This would entail a radical change to almost everything in a cafe, from the build to the operation. On the team was hospitality supremo Danny Colls, who already had a wealth of experience creating Melbourne cafe institutions. Over years of friendship we’d built a mutual respect. What’s more, he understood how wasteful the industry was and wanted to prove that there’s another way. Leading the charge in the kitchen was passionate young chef Douglas McMaster. He embraced my radical ideas and collaborated with Matt Stone, then head chef of Greenhouse, my sustainable serial pop-up restaurant. Backed…

MEETING MASSIMO BOTTURA on MasterChef was life-changing for me. I came up with a zero-waste dish that he says gave him “goosebumps”, and this has encouraged me to keep trying to eliminate waste in the kitchen. Using ingredients we would normally throw away is a challenge, but it forces us to be creative. It’s amazing what dishes can be created with overripe bananas, stale bread, vegie scraps, even leftovers. This dessert uses banana skins blended with caramel for an intense flavour. Some things are just too good to throw out! BANANA SPLIT SERVES 4 6 small ripe bananas, peeled, halved lengthwise, skins reserved 2 x 395g cans Caramel Top’N’Fill Vanilla ice cream, to serve LEFTOVER-BREAD CHOCOLATE SAUCE 1 slice (30g) stale white sourdough, cut into 1cm pieces 300ml pure (thin)…

FATTEH IS A POPULAR Middle Eastern dish made with stale bread and accompanied by a host of hearty ingredients. Serve it for brunch, with eggs, or as a vegetarian main course with cooked seasonal vegetables – simply plan ahead and soak the chickpeas the night before. You can cook the chickpeas and prepare all the toppings in advance, but you’ll want to assemble the herb paste and toss everything together just before serving to ensure that it all stays green and vibrant, and that the fatteh is the right consistency. Yotam Ottolenghi is chef-patron of the London-based Ottolenghi delis and the NOPI and ROVI restaurants. He has published seven bestselling cookbooks – his latest is Simple, published by Random House. CHICKPEA AND HERB FATTEH SERVES 6 Begin this recipe at…

TYPE: Made from strained whole-milk yoghurt, labneh (also called labne, labaneh and labni) is a creamy, tangy soft cheese, and an ancient staple of Middle Eastern cuisine. ORIGIN: The Levant region (modern-day Cyprus, Egypt, Lebanon, Palestine and Syria). SPECIAL BECAUSE: Each culture has a unique take on labneh – some is made with cow’s milk, while others use sheep’s or goat’s milk. Technique varies, too, with fresh, preserved and dried versions of labneh readily available.…

“Buy seasonal and local. The produce will be fresher and last longer.”– Lisa Margan “THIS RECIPE DEFIES ALL THE ‘RULES’ OF PASTA AND SEAFOOD, AND CHEESE AND POTATO TO BOOT. IT’S DEFINITELY ONE TO TRY.” BLT WITH HERBY AIOLI AND CARAMELISED ONION SERVES 6 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil 2 large onions, thinly sliced 1 tsp brown or white sugar 2 tsp vinegar (I used red wine vinegar) 2 tbs tomato paste 6 bacon rashers 1/2 cup (150g) mayonnaise 1/2 garlic clove, crushed 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1/2 cup chopped soft herbs such as chervil, tarragon and parsley 6 English muffins, halved, toasted 6 butter lettuce leaves 2 tomatoes, sliced Heat oil in a large frypan over medium-low heat. Add onion and a pinch of salt flakes and…

“Eat in the seasons. I know it is a heavily overused phrase, however it is a mantra that will save your wallet and the earth. Things are cheaper, taste better and don’t stress out the planet. I always look for things that are in oversupply at the peak of their season and use them in other ways like preserving, fermenting and making things like shrubs and other syrups.”– Mike McEnearney WILD FERMENTED HONEY “The quiet magic and power of fermentation is that it breathes and breeds life to food even if it’s moments from becoming waste.” There are no exact quantities for this, it’s best if you use raw honey for fermenting. Peeled garlic cloves are perhaps the most popular thing to put into honey, if you have fruit with…

MINCE & SAUSAGES are great to have in the freezer. I have both in my freezer right now, on hand, ready to go when needed. BREADCRUMBS I blitz up old bread that goes stale so I can always have breadcrumbs in the freezer. HAM HOCKS are great to freeze. This could be your ham hock recipe after Christmas instead of pea and ham soup. Also, any leftover ham stock can be frozen and used as a base for a soup. SMOKED SALMON For the cream cheese, smoked salmon and smoked trout sauce you can use any kind of smoked salmon – honey smoked or flavoured with black pepper – gravlax, ocean trout or smoked salmon fillets.…

“Blanch surplus vegies in salt water, refresh then blend ‘til smooth. Add these purees to risottos, pies and pastas.”– Josh Niland WE ARE LIVING in complex and challenging times. Many of us fear for the future of our planet, and yearn for ways to make life simpler. We find ourselves drawn to long-lost skills and practices to ground and connect us in ways that are more ethical and sustainable. Because it is increasingly clear that the personal choices we make are political: amidst our busy lives, how and what we feed ourselves and our loved ones can make a difference. The logic of this book is simple. Each chapter features a shopping basket of seasonal produce – an example of a weekly shop that contains a selection of well-chosen complementary…

TODAY WE ARE travelling 150 kilometres north of Karumba (about two hours on dirt roads) to the Gulf Coast Agricultural Co. Combining four stations (Inkerman, Dorunda, Van Rook and Stirling Lotus Vale), this extensive property covers more than a million hectares of the Cape York Peninsula and 90 kilometres of coastline along the Gulf of Carpentaria, and runs more than 100,000 pure Brahman cattle. This is where I’ve arranged to meet up and hang out with like-minded chefs Mark LaBrooy, Lennox Hastie, Paul Carmichael, Beau Clugston and David Moyle, all flying in tomorrow. The general idea is to sleep under the stars for a few days, and to eat only what we gather in terms of wild ingredients each day. The next day we greet the guys on Van Rook’s…

SECOND CHANCES: I’ve never been more excited to receive my subscription than in recent months. How pleasantly surprised I was with the May 2020 issue to see Julia Busuttil Nishimura’s new cookbook A Year Of Simple Family Food featured (p 82)! One of my planned activities pre-coronavirus was a meet-and-greet with Julia, but it was sadly cancelled. Until things go back to normal, these new recipes will definitely do! We’re very spoilt with delicious., your cooks give up all their secrets in the magazine. Penny Oon LAYER UP: With my daughter’s second birthday fast approaching, the May 2020 issue of delicious. treated us to many inspiring cake recipes. I couldn’t decide on just one, so went with Matt Moran’s fudgy chocolate tahini cake (p 94) and Julia Busuttil Nishimura’s banana…

CAULIFLOWER, ITS LEAVES AND BARLEY SERVES 4-6 Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. 1 (approx. 1kg) medium cauliflower head, leaves attached 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 1/2 cups (300g) barley, soaked overnight, drained 150g unsalted butter, chopped 1/2 cup (125ml) white wine 5 cups (1.25L) ‘leftovers’ stock (recipe below) 1 1/2 cups (120g) grated parmesan, plus extra to serve 1/2 cup (75g) macadamias, roasted, chopped ‘LEFTOVERS’ STOCK 300g parmesan rinds 2 onions, quartered 1 large carrot, cut into large pieces Handful of vegetable trimmings (tops of green onions, onion root, the head of a carrot, herb stems, etc.) For the stock, place parmesan rinds, onion, carrot, vegetable trimmings and 10 cups (2.5L) water in a large saucepan or stock pot…

WILDFLOWER AMBER #26, $25 A wild-ferment beer from artisan brewer Wildflower. Exotic, exciting and delicious, it’s yeasty in its aromas but all pulpy grapefruit zestiness to taste. This has the requisite sour tang and pleasing bite that finds harmony with winter greens. SERRURIA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019, $25 Two female winemakers crafting incredible white wines from regional New South Wales, this is not your average sauvignon blanc, offering exuberant aromas and freshness that reset the palate after each mouthful. A wonderful drink for this dish. M&J BECKER HUNTER VALLEY SYRAH 2019, $25 You wouldn’t think winter greens and shiraz go together, but this peppery, spicy red is just right. It’s medium-bodied, all red berry fruits and clove/ cinnamon characters and just feels darn dangerously drinkable.…

C: Everyone has had bad couscous. You know like really bad, dry couscous. It’s like sawdust. So I think we need a little bit of fat in it to keep it moist. I saw in Portugal how they do it where they massage the couscous in olive oil… A: Have you been watching Rick Stein? C: …so they get the couscous wet with oil and massage it in their hands. We’re not going to do that, but we’re going to poach the chicken and then use the stock to cook the couscous. So then the couscous has all this flavour. A: Nice. C: It’s our post-lockdown couscous. It has absorbed all our passion and our stress, and it’s ready to burst. Pent up with flavour. A: R-rated couscous! C: And…

I’VE BEEN WRITING about minimising kitchen waste for a decade. The basic rules, however, remain the same: (1) buy only what you need, (2) cook only what you’ll eat, and (3) love leftovers – whether of dishes or ingredients (but if you follow the first two rules these will be minimal and you’ll save more money). We’ve become a lot smarter about using all the ingredient, whether that’s a nose-to-tail or root-to-leaf approach. Human ingenuity is a marvellous thing. Here’s just some of what I’ve gathered over the years for reducing household waste. POTATO SKINS Potato skins can be fried or roasted, with results varying according to the starch level of the variety. My favourite, however, is to cook the clean skins in the milk you’ll use in mash. The…

“Wrap soft herbs in a damp cloth before placing them in the fridge, and reuse the same cloth instead of turning to something disposable like paper towel. Check your fruit and vegetables every day, and turn them so they don’t pick up blemishes from sitting on the same spot.” – Mike McEnearney “I put my herbs in a jar of water in the fridge, like cut flowers. When it comes to vegies I try to just buy what I need for a few days, so I use them up before they start looking sad! If that does happen, I’ll add them to a soup or stir-fry.” – Ronni Kahn To dry herbs: preheat oven to 100°C. Arrange sprigs in a single layer on a baking tray. Dry in the oven…

“MEXICAN SOUP POZOLE MEANS HOMINY (MAIZE).” “Any leftover meat from roast chicken is made into an array of things, from chicken rolls to curry or a pie. The bones are made into a soup or stock. For me, repurposing food, like cooked chicken carcasses, is a must.”– Matt Wilkinson I GREW UP in a Jewish home where chicken soup was a way of life. It was a cure-all – Jewish penicillin, after all – and noodle-filled or matzo ball versions were always fixtures on the table every holiday. To me, chicken soup would become one of those sublime but essential foods. Whether rich, hearty and chunky, or light, fragrant and brothy, looking at the world through the lens of a simple bowl of chicken soup reveals volumes about a society…

“A frittata is an excellent no-waste dish as you can use up brilliant ingredients, from cheese to leftover vegies and herbs.”– Ronni Kahn “USE VEGIES, HALF-USED PIECES OF CHEESE AND OPEN JARS OF CONDIMENTS FOR FLAVOUR-PACKED FRITTATAS. IF YOU DON’T WANT TO USE CREAM, YOU CAN SUB IN MILK, SOUR CREAM, OR YOU CAN EVEN JUST LOOSEN THE 6 EGGS WITH ONE-QUARTER CUP OF COLD WATER IF YOU DON’T HAVE CREAM OR MILK.” SPICED EGGPLANT WITH LABNEH AND MINT SERVES 4-6 1 small eggplant (about 200g), cut into wedges 2 tsp harissa or a pinch of chilli flakes 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil 150g cherry tomatoes, halved 1/2 small red onion, cut into thin rings 6 eggs 1/2 cup (125ml) pure…

KIRSTEN JENKINS’ “Try making a cake using breadcrumbs instead of flour. It gives a wonderful texture that absorbs syrup beautifully.”– Mike McEnearney PRUNE & MIXED CHOCOLATE BROWNIE WITH BISCUIT CRUMB SERVES 12-14 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil 150g salted butter, melted 1 cup (220g) dark brown sugar (or brown) 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar 4 eggs 1 tbs vanilla extract 1 cup (150g) plain flour, sifted 1 cup (100g) cocoa powder, sifted 200g mixed chocolate, chopped 200g pitted prunes, chopped (we used Woolworths Macro pitted prunes) 75g chocolate biscuits, lightly crushed Preheat oven to 180°C. Lightly grease a 22cm square cake pan and line with baking paper. Combine the oil, butter and sugars in a large bowl. Whisk in the eggs and vanilla until well combined. Add the flour, cocoa,…