Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2020 i delicious

WHAT BETTER WAY to salute the Italian people from afar than our annual Italian issue. The Italy of 2020 has done it tougher than many countries throughout isolation, but nothing will ever dampen our love of the country, its people and cuisine. In fact I’d go so far as to call it the cuisine that got us through Covid the warmth and heart of handmade pasta, ragu, pizza dough, tomato bases, simple ingredients, focaccia from scratch, making do, buying local. Cucina povera is where the world is at right now. There’s a reason tinned tomatoes and pasta were the first ingredients cleared from supermarket shelves in a crisis, closely followed by flour. Although I’m still not sure why risoni got left behind, but we are making up for that this…

VEGIE DELIGHTS “This menu is pure comfort – it’s just what I look for in cooler weather when there’s more down time lounging on the couch. Plus there’s no need to feel guilty about eating carbs on carbs when the menu is packed with vegies!” Helena Moursellas, Assistant Food Editor ICONIC ITALIAN “Featuring a bright array of stone-fruit aromas, the light style Stonier Chardonnay will finesse the chilli and sausage risotto dish. And with its white wine sauce, the pork cotoletta should be accompanied by a premium chardonnay that partners perfectly with the flavours of the main course. Try the Jimjoca Chardonnay – tight and restrained, with a floral lift followed by lemon juice and musky cinnamon spice flavour notes. To finish, the Stonier Sparkling will help cut through the…

SAUERKRAUT “I love sauerkraut and I particularly love how it works in the pork-and-bean soup. It adds a beautiful acidity that cuts the richness. It provides a beautiful balance. You get something hearty, but not heavy. And sauerkraut is so good for you and so easy to make. It’s just so rewarding and a great way to use cabbage.” CUTTLEFISH “There’s a beautiful richness of flavour that comes from the cuttlefish’s natural ink, so for the squid ink risotto, you want to use cuttlefish that haven’t released their ink, not cuttlefish fillets. Fillets will have been cleaned and the ink all removed. You need the ink for the proper flavour.” PORK MINCE “You can go down the path of mincing your own pork or buy it minced from a good…

“THE WAY THAT THE ANIMALS ARE HANDLED WITHIN THE UNIT IS JUST SO CAREFUL AND SLOW AND IT SHOWS IN THE MEAT.”– MARK LABROOY A NEW MOBILE abattoir is driving change in the Australian meat industry. Provenir, the brainchild of farmer Chris Balazs, chef Christopher Howe, veterinarian Phil Larwill, barrister Merissa Martinez and marketing manager Jayne Newgreen, is bringing butchery back to the farm, removing the need for live transport. An Australian first, it improves both animal welfare and meat quality, and it’s being welcomed by chefs and restaurateurs. “These guys are just completely revolutionising our commercial food system,” says Mark LaBrooy, chef and co-owner of Three Blue Ducks. The restaurant is one of a handful that showcase Provenir meat on the menu. You’ll also find it at Melbourne’s Rockpool…

AS I WAS eating Nutella straight out of the jar (we all do that, right?) one night I thought, what kind of genius decided to mix chocolate and hazelnut together? Given my love for the chocolate-hazelnut spread, I found a way of making one from scratch. Gianduja (pronounced ‘jon-doo-ya’) is a favourite among Italians and rightly so! A big dollop of this chocolate-hazelnut spread paired with a luscious semifreddo is perfection. And with the added crunch of hazelnuts and a sprinkling of sea salt, this dessert is magnifico. Buon appetito! SEMIFREDDO WITH GIANDUJA SERVES 6-8 Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. You will need a sugar thermometer. 120g caster sugar 6 egg yolks 900ml thickened cream HAZELNUT PASTE 2 cups (300g) raw hazelnuts 11/2 cups (330g) caster sugar 1 tsp…

THIS TAKE ON the classic pasta sauce does everything the original does but with much less cooking. And what makes this dish so compelling is the deep flavours generated by seafood as it cooks, creating a virtually instant stock that emulsifies with the starches from the pasta. The coating ability of this sauce, combined with layers of seaside aromas, is what make this prawn bolognese so special. Tagliatelle is great, but you can use most other pasta shapes. Yotam Ottolenghi is chef-patron of the London-based Ottolenghi delis and the NOPI and ROVI restaurants. He has published seven bestselling cookbooks – his latest is Simple, published by Random House. @ottolenghi @ottolenghi PRAWN BOLOGNESE SERVES 4 1/2 small fennel bulb, roughly chopped 1/2 small onion, roughly chopped 5 garlic cloves, roughly chopped…

LET’S ADDRESS THE big question first. Lasagne is, without doubt, the greatest Italian dish ever made. Sure, it’s a lot of work and, sure, it changes as it moves through Italy, gaining an ‘a’ at the end instead of an ‘e’ as it moves south. I love it, from the luxurious prosciutto and porcini richness of the Marche region’s version, vincisgrassi, and the meat overload Calabrians (and some Neapolitans) love to the ricotta and spinach stuffed cannelloni of Sicily, but it’s the classic Central Italian combo of besciamella sauce, pasta sheets and ragu that is the benchmark for me. Now we’ve sorted that out let’s work out what other dishes almost took out top spot so you can remonstrate with me over social media. By the way, I’m looking for…

DAVID BOWIE, STEVIE WONDER, Billy Idol – and Monty Koludrovic. The former executive chef of Iceberg’s Dining Room and Bar in Sydney has joined the greats at Grandmaster Recorders, a famous recording studio in the heart of Hollywood. Husband-and-wife team Monty and Jaci Koludrovic have been asked to lead the venue’s new restaurant and rooftop bar. The multi-storey site was scheduled to reopen in a few weeks’ time, however, with the Covid-19 restrictions coming in, they’ve had to hit pause for now. “It definitely wasn’t what we had hoped for but we were probably more adjusted than many others… we didn’t yet have a routine to be disrupted and we were mentally prepared for a challenge and an adventure.” Monty is currently fine-tuning the restaurant menu from home. “It’s still…

“THESE CRUNCHY ZUCCHINI SNACKS ARE JUST THE THING TO CUT THROUGH THE INDULGENT CHEESE-AND-PEPPER DIPPING SAUCE.” CACIO E PEPE WITH GREEN SPAGHETTI SERVES 4-6 You will need a pasta machine for this recipe. 100g unsalted butter, cut into 1cm pieces 11/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 3/4 cup (60g) finely grated Grana Padano, plus extra to serve 1/4 cup (20g) finely grated pecorino GREEN SPAGHETTI 60g baby spinach, stems picked 4 eggs, lightly beaten 2 cups (300g) tipo ‘00’ flour, sifted 100g fine semolina, sifted 11/2 tbs finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle For the green spaghetti, bring a medium saucepan half-filled with water to the boil. Add spinach and blanch for 20-30 seconds until just wilted. Refresh in iced water then…

BAKED RICOTTA CAKE SERVES 12 Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. 200g unsalted butter, chilled, chopped 1 3/4 cup (385g) caster sugar 5 eggs 3 cups (450g) plain flour 1 tsp baking powder 700g fresh ricotta 500g cream cheese, at room temperature 2 tsp vanilla extract Pure icing sugar, to dust To make the pastry, place butter and 3/4 cup (165g) sugar in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment and beat until smooth. Beat in 1 egg until well combined. Fold in flour, baking powder and a pinch of salt. Cut one-third of the dough, flatten into a rectangle and enclose in plastic wrap. Shape the larger piece into a rectangle and enclose in plastic wrap. Chill both blocks of pastry for 2 hours. Preheat oven to 200°C. Grease…

While you’ll want to stay at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo forever, the small, artistic city of Como is buzzing with cultural highlights, including galleries. The international museum for contemporary art is a must-visit for its annual large-scale installation exhibition. Enjoy local treats such as nuvola , a sweet bread indigenous to the region, or at Christmas, the pasticcerias teeming with fresh panettone. Visit Beretta for classic sfogliatelle pastry or bombolini, and fresh potato focaccia. Pick up a bottle of local gin Rivo with hand-foraged botanicals, or seek out typical Como osteria Figli dei Fiori , a stunning restaurant serving up humble and delicious home-style dishes. Local restaurant Kitchen , a fine diner, showcases next-gen Italian haute cuisine, nestled in the gardens of the Sheraton Lake Como hotel.…

spritz fix Kick back with a glass of one of Italy’s most widely consumed cocktails, the Aperol spritz. The apèritif can be enjoyed for any occasion, especially after-work virtual hangouts with friends and family. Visit: aperolspritz.com.au silver lining Smeg’s Classic range has been reimagined to celebrate confident simplicity in the kitchen. The iconic design champions innovation with signature Italian style. Explore its stainless-steel ovens, rangehoods and more. Visit: smeg.com.au unbeerlievable brews Enjoy Bundaberg’s ginger beer to-go with its mini can packs. The new size is perfect for picnics, lunchboxes or an after-work thirst quencher. Following a family recipe used for four generations, each batch contains Aussie-grown ginger. Visit: bundaberg.com zest for life Obento Ponzu sauce is your new staple for all Asian cuisines. The tangy dressing is made of soy…

While we may dream of Italy, we also have a wealth of beauty to experience right here at home, and our country has never needed your support more. delicious . is proud to partner with Tourism Australia on our Great Aussie Bucket List campaign: a list of all the dishes, places, experiences, restaurants and food trails you need to try before you die. When the time is right, let’s experience the treasures in our own backyard and support local. Watch out for all our tips and suggestions across all the delicious . platforms.…

SMOKED PORK, BEAN & SAUERKRAUT SOUP SERVES 4-6 Begin this recipe 3 hours ahead. 1 (1.2kg) smoked ham hock 1 each carrot, celery stalk and onion, cut into large chunks 1 bay leaf SOUP 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil 40g unsalted butter 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 each celery stalk & carrot, finely chopped 1/4 bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 1 tbs each finely chopped rosemary and sage 1 bay leaf 1 x 400g can San Marzano whole tomatoes, roughly chopped 300g parmesan rind 200g sauerkraut, drained 2 x 400g cans cannellini beans, drained Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, to serve To braise the smoked ham hock, place ham hock, carrot, celery, onion and bay leaf in a large saucepan with 3L water over high heat.…

1. KitchenAid pasta cutter and angel attachment, $199 (mixer not included), kitchenaid.com.au 2. Grind Alder salt and pepper mill set, $79.95, from Salt & Pepper (saltandpepper.com.au) 3. Microplane Master Series fine grater, $93.95, from Everten (everten.com.au) 4. Apulian risotto bowl, $85, from Alex and Trahanas (alexandtrahanas.com) 5. Imperia pasta machine, $130, from Williams Sonoma (williams-sonoma.com.au) 6. Typhoon living otto pasta storage, $29.95, from Everten (everten. com.au) 7. Chasseur stainless-steel pastry wheel, $9.95, from Kitchen Warehouse (kitchenwarehouse. com.au) 8. Mason Cash Innovative Kitchen bench scraper, $7.95, from Kitchen Warehouse (kitchenwarehouse.com.au) 9. Apulian dish, $40, from Alex and Trahanas (alexandtrahanas.com) 10. Appetito rectangular rubber wood gnocchi board, $5.95 each, from Kitchen Warehouse (kitchenwarehouse.com.au) 11. Avanti ravioli-making set, $39.95, from Everten (everten.com.au) 12. Williams Sonoma walnut ravioli stamps, $38 (williams-sonoma.com.au) 13. Country Road Xave…

CHAMBERS OLD VINE MUSCAT NV, $25 This potent, lush, fortified wine is made by one the most iconic producers of the Rutherglen wine region. It’s a hedonistic drink offering rich, booze-soaked fruit and nut characters with molasses texture and toffee in the finish. Yum. TAHBILK CANE CUT MARSANNE 2017, $19 A more classic, light and fresh dessert wine here, and near perfect with this cake. It drinks pretty and sweet but has brisk, limey acidity to lift the wine. It feels more like a final garnish to the cheesecake rather than a separate drink. ALBINO ROCCA MOSCATO D’ASTI 2017, $35 This moscato comes from old vines in a small, lovingly tended vineyard and is as good as the style gets. Expect rose water characters, brisk, tight bubbles, citrusy freshness…

A: We’re celebrating pork and how versatile and amazing it is. While people will naturally think of veal when talking about a cotoletta, that’s not to say you can’t use other cuts of meat, and pork works particularly well. C: We’re also in trying times. You go into the supermarket and you’re not necessarily sure what’s available. So if you want to buy veal and you can’t get it, pork is a great substitute. A: It’s slightly more affordable now, too. Affordability is important for our delicious . readership – affordability is very 2020. C: That’s the thing really right now isn’t it? It’s 2020 and everyone is living on a shoestring budget, so pork is the veal of 2020. A: We’re very 2020. Another thing that’s very 2020 is…

PHOEBE WOOD’S PORK, ROSEMARY, FENNEL & CHILLI RAGU LASAGNE SERVES 8-10 “DIG INTO WARM LAYERS WITH THIS CLASSIC RAGU LASAGNE FEATURING A HIT OF CHILLI.”– PHOEBE WOOD Begin this recipe 5 hours ahead. 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil 1.5kg pork neck, trimmed 2 cups (500ml) tomato sugo 400g can chopped tomatoes 2 tbs tomato paste 4 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked 3 tsp fennel seeds 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tsp chilli flakes 80g unsalted butter 80g plain flour 4 cups (1L) milk 1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg 60g parmesan, finely grated 400g store-bought fresh lasagne sheets 1 cup (100g) mozzarella, grated To make the ragu, heat oil in a flameproof casserole over high heat. Season pork and add to pan. Cook, turning, for 6-8 minutes until…

IT WAS IN Rome, 20 years ago, where Shannon Bennett had his most memorable slow-cooked meal. “Some friends took me to a small backstreet local. I had the best osso buco I have ever eaten, even to this day, with the softest polenta,” he says. “It was cooked over a wood stove for 12 hours and had incredibly fragrant oranges and tomatoes. I never want to replicate this meal at home because it’s the motivator in my search for great food every time I visit Italy.” In his own kitchen, Bennett returns to slow cooking time and again because of one thing: the satisfaction. “Braising has a technical aspect to it that makes me feel like I have achieved greatness. You’re making something ordinary into something extraordinary,” he says. “Plus,…

JUST A DECADE ago, it wasn’t easy to publish a cookbook about Sicily. Back then, Italy was widely regarded overseas as consisting primarily of Tuscany, plus a few of the larger, more glamorous cities, such as Venice, Milan and Rome. The recipes in this book are a blend of the three ancient Sicilian cuisines: cucina dei Monsù (French influenced), cibo di strada (street food), and cucina povera ('food of the poor'). Sicilian cooking combines the best aspects of Italian and North African cuisines and takes advantage of other food influences from its many conquerors. A lot has changed in the decade since I published my first Sicilian cookbook. Sicilian food and culture is now considered a worthy subject for close study. There are plenty of native foods that are being…

Venice is a magical city: dreamy with its winding canals, and majestic with its opulent, crumbling palazzi – quite unlike anywhere else in the world. But the city centre is small and can become crowded, especially in peak tourist season, which is when I like to travel off the beaten track and explore the islands in the surrounding lagoon area. Here, life moves with a distinctly slower, lazier pace – there is a peace about life on the islands, and a rich culinary tradition to discover. If you have the time on your next visit to Venice, I highly recommend taking a boat out on a sunny summer’s day and heading for lunch on one of these beautiful little islands. BURANO Burano is a small island in the north of…

Parma seems to roll off the tongue as easily as its many gastronomic treasures. This food lovers’ city is found in the Emilia-Romagna region of northern Italy. It’s home to the famous cheese that shares its name, pasta and prosciutto, so it’s no surprise it dares to call itself the food capital of Italy. Chefs in this part of the world will tease your tastebuds as you kick back in a way that you can’t in big bustling cities like Milan or Rome. Here, the locals let their feet or their bikes take them to their favourite deli, bar or eatery. Parma was the first Italian city to be recognised by UNESCO for its gastronomic heritage. It is surrounded by the ‘Food Valley’, known for producing cheese, prosciutto and sparkling…

I’VE WORKED AND travelled all over Italy while filming for Bondi Harvest, and I have seen a lot of the variety that makes Italy such a wondrous place. Over this time I have met many people, and friends have turned into family. Some of which are now business partners on a new project I’m working on for a restaurant soon to open in Milan, which is really exciting! There are many dishes that are traditional to Milan, so if you’re there you should definitely prioritise the local specialties. My must-try list includes risotto allo zafferano con l’ossobuco (slow-cooked osso buco on saffron risotto), cotoletta alla Milanese, or my favourite risotto al salto (crispy risotto pancake). For dessert you should try either sbrisolona, e torta paradiso or zabaione. You won’t be…

APRIL’S MOST-LIKED POST 4902 likes, 153 comments Get those ovens preheated and raid your cereal shelf! For round 11 of @deliciousbakeclub, we challenged readers to recreate our incredible Corn Flake lemon meringue tart. Find the recipe on delicious.com.au to try your hand at this recipe, and check out delicious.com.au/ bakeclub to get involved in the next round! SWEET ESCAPE: A rare outing to the supermarket saw me grabbing the April issue of delicious . I have now read it cover to cover and have loved the little escape from reality it has brought me. My family are loving all the beautiful recipes I’m cooking. Thank you for providing this mum-of-three a little break from the norm during these tough times. Emma Bews THE CHOSEN BUN: Coronavirus meant our Easter breakfast…

COOKING DURING OUR 10-week lockdown in Italy was at once a chore and a salvation. It was a chore because, of course, it had to be done. And it was a cruel irony, because often the most enduring memories for anyone who has visited Italy (particularly Bologna, where we were based, which is regarded as one of the food capitals of this great nation) are the restaurants. High-end or low, they’re stunning. Traditional family trattorias, osterias where you can drink and often bring your own food, pizzerias, pasticcerie and bars form the bedrock of Italian social life, and even though we have always mainly eaten at home (for reasons both economical and practical), knowing they were denied us was a shock that still seems unreal. One of the reasons we…

PECORA DAIRY IS a shining example in the world of artisan cheesemaking, garnering many plaudits since it began operating in 2011, including taking out the ‘From the Dairy’ category in last year’s delicious . Harvey Norman Produce Awards. The owners and cheesemakers, Cressida and Michael Cains (formerly McNamara), produce a small range of top-notch cheeses from a single flock of East Friesian ewes – “the racehorses of the dairy world” – on their property in Robertson in the Southern Highlands. Now Cressida is set to extend help to fellow dairy farmers. In late April she was named NSW Rural Woman of the Year. It comes with a bursary to help launch her Dairy Cocoon project, an online support hub that aims to help small dairy farmers diversify into producing their…

“SERVE RISOTTO IN SHALLOW BOWLS TO ALLOW FOR THE CREAMINESS TO KISS THE PLATE EVENLY… ITALIANS CALL THIS ‘ALL’ONDA’, MEANING ‘LIKE WAVES’. CHE ROMANTICO!” MY LOVE AFFAIR with risotto goes deeper than a passion for its creamy texture and irresistible savoury bite, it’s embedded in my DNA. I was born and raised in the heart of Pianura Padana in the Lombardy region of Italy, where rice grows abundantly and where everyone takes sensational pride in cooking the humble produce of our otherwise slightly dull, flat land. Risotto is our staple dish. We may have it simply flavoured with Grana Padano (similar to the more notable Parmigiano, and just as delightful), or we may turn it into a more sumptuous meal with the addition of saffron strands and seared scallops. No…

YOU SAY WINTER, I say soup. Even on those gloriously warm days we often enjoy in July and August, my loyalty lies with warming bowls of goodness, brimming with powerful bitter greens, filling legumes and nourishing vegetables. My recipe library for zuppa, Italian for soup, is rather large, a true testament to my devotion to this type of preparation. What I love most about these recipes is that they require no particular technique – just a bit of chopping (rough, in my case!), some generous seasoning and sourcing of seasonal produce. Think cavolo nero mingling with sausage and cannellini beans, tirelessly versatile cauliflower paired with the creaminess of parmesan and the fresh zest of lemon, or punchy bitter greens kissed by a hint of horseradish, to warm up body and…

LIMONCELLO MAKES 4 CUPS (1L) Begin this recipe 3 days ahead. “THERE HASN’T BEEN A TIME WHEN I HAVEN’T USED A LEMON OR TWO IN MY DISHES. THIS STORY TAKES ME STRAIGHT TO THE AMALFI COAST... I CAN’T WAIT TO VISIT AGAIN.” Thickly pared rind of 8 organic lemons 700ml vodka 1 cup (220g) caster sugar Place lemon rind in a large sterilised glass jar and top with vodka. Cover with a lid and steep for 3 days at room temperature. Strain through a fine sieve into a large non-reactive bowl and discard rind. Place sugar and 150ml water in a saucepan over low heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cool completely, then pour over the infused vodka mixture and stir to combine. Decant into a sterilised bottle and seal…