Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2017 i delicious

ONE OF THE WONDERFUL THINGS about November is that (almost) anything goes. During the party season, we’re more likely to embrace a trend, entertain barefoot, barbecue something outdoors (stonefruit skewers with an artisanal pastis in hand perhaps?), or indulge in such things as an adult slushie. (As for what exactly is the new frosé, Mike Bennie answers this pressing question on page 30.) The thing I like most about the delicious. audience is your appetite for adventure; an open-mindedness and desire to try something new. Like grilled pork belly and pineapple skewers (in Quick Sticks on page 80). Or fermenting and pickling whatever remains in your fridge, to create an unexpected bounty courtesy of the clever Cornersmith team (page 88). It could be springing back to life with Andrew McConnell’s…

THEY ARE THE rock stars of the sea. Yep, our lobsters are the big show-stoppers of the deep blue and just one step behind the creamy caress of caviar. Their rich and substantial flesh may have similarities to crabs and prawns, but they stand alone in terms of eating experience. Lobsters have always been a luxury food in Australia, but fish authority John Susman gave chefs unprecedented access back in the ‘80s when he started unconventional seafood distributor Flying Squid Brothers. “We’d hire a Cessna, fly to Coffin Bay, land on a dirt landing strip, take all but the pilot’s seat out and load sacks of lobsters into the plane,” he says. They’d fly to Alice Springs and race around town selling their catch, before flying back, re-fitting the seats…

FIRING UP THE barbie is a great excuse to buy interesting cuts of meat and whole fish – add a refreshing salad or two, a jug of punch (virgin or alcoholic), and you’ll find every meal outside is a joy. If you’re using a charcoal barbie, it’s essential to mound the coals up high on one side for searing heat, and gradually slope them down to low and gentle on the other. This will give you the ability to guarantee colour and caramelisation, but also let you cook burgers, skewers and vegies without burning them. Having a corner where you can top up the heat with extra coals as needed is helpful. When planning your menu, think about the life of the barbie: it’s incredibly hot for 40 or 50…

IKUEI ARAKANE Ikuei Arakane (Kin San) is the chef behind popular restaurants in Melbourne and Hobart. CRISP GLAZED SALMON WITH TOMATO & WITLOF SALAD SERVES 4 80g Kewpie Mayonnaise 2 tbs wholegrain mustard 1 tbs white (shiro) miso paste 2 tsp mirin 2 tsp soy sauce 4 x 150g salmon fillets (skin on), pin-boned 1/4 cup (35g) plain flour Salt flakes, to scatter 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 2 baby cos lettuce, leaves separated 6 small heirloom tomatoes, sliced 1 witlof (Belgian endive), leaves separated Lemon wedges and micro shiso, to serve Preheat grill to high. Combine Kewpie Mayonnaise, mustard, miso paste, mirin and soy sauce in a bowl. Set aside. Place the salmon on a plate and dust with flour to coat, then scatter with salt flakes. Heat…

Enjoying incredible, home-cooked food is a priority for most of us, but not everyone has the time or energy to spend hours in the kitchen. We created delicious.daily as your everyday go-to guide to updating your recipe repertoire, with clever hacks to make every dish quicker, easier or more delicious. From nutritious, make-ahead breakfasts to quick weeknight dinners and satisfying meat-free meals, we have you covered. For the weekend, there’s insider tips to make entertaining easy; one-pot dinners; wholesome, nourishing bowls; and simply impressive desserts, including those featured here. Food is life. Make it delicious. Every single day. delicious.daily: 101+ simply brilliant twists on classic recipes (HarperCollins, RRP $45) is available from October 23. STRAWBERRY, ROSEMARY & VODKA TIRAMISU SERVES 8 Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. 750g strawberries, hulled…

THE SUBARCTIC WATER MIGHT BE COLD, BUT THIS COULD BE THE COOLEST THING YOU DO. 1 ANIMAL MAGIC... When you make eye contact with a majestic polar bear, time seems to stand still. Watch them laze about in fields of vibrant purple fireweed along the banks of the Seal River on the Hudson Bay Coast in Manitoba. Mama bears and their cubs while away the summer months, waiting for the ice to form so they can return to their hunting grounds, and young males play-fight to pass the time. The Tundra Buggy (picture a bus on monster truck wheels) makes it possible for you to get up close to these awe-inspiring beasts in their natural habitat. Thousands of beluga whales congregate in Hudson Bay each summer. Take a boat tour…

#MAKEITDELICIOUS PHOTO OF THE MONTH This decadent chocolate custard cake from April (Valli’s Kitchen Diary, p 120 ) was a perfect afternoon snack and an even more delightful dessert! #makeitdelicious @hoganjh GUILTY PLEASURE: I was excited to read Matt Preston’s ‘bogan’ column (September 17, p 52). Macaroni cheese with tomato ketchup has long been a guilty pleasure of mine, but my friends and family have never agreed with me. Even my boyfriend is keen to taste the flavour combination now. Thanks for encouraging my bogan ways! Jenette Schoch VALE VALLI: I never met Valli Little, but I feel like she’s often been in my kitchen. Her classic recipes – Asian-marinated baked salmon and quick Italian-style roast pork – are two of my all-time favourites. I use her cookbooks regularly…

CHILLED PEA & LETTUCE SOUP SERVES 4 AS A STARTER 2 cups (500ml) vegetable or chicken stock 200ml pure (thin) cream, plus extra to serve 1 small potato, peeled, finely chopped 25g unsalted butter, chopped 1 tbs olive oil 2 eschalots, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 baby cos lettuce, washed, chopped 12/3 cups (200g) frozen peas 100g baby spinach leaves 1 cup loosely packed flat-leaf parsley leaves Snow pea tendrils and mint leaves, to serve Place stock, cream and potato in a small saucepan over high heat. Bring to the boil. Meanwhile, heat butter and oil in a separate saucepan over medium heat. Add eschalot and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 minutes or until eschalot has softened. Add lettuce, peas, spinach, parsley and boiling stock…

I’VE OFTEN THOUGHT that anyone opening a restaurant risks ending up in an asylum. Long hours, late nights, chefs’ egos and minuscule margins conspire to draw one closer to a straitjacket and padded cell. The Agrarian Kitchen’s Rodney Dunn and Séverine Demanet cut to the chase, opening their restaurant in New Norfolk’s Willow Court – a former mental asylum. Over the past 10 years, they’ve been growing produce and running The Agrarian Kitchen – Tassie’s adored kitchen garden and cooking school – in nearby Lachlan. The restaurant seems a natural progression to celebrate not only produce they grow themselves, but that of farmers, fishermen and growers of the region, too. Drinks guru Adi Ruiz embodies the local ethos with a list that celebrates the region’s drops as well as taking…

“This is a real snapshot of contemporary home cooking in Australia. So many of us are keen to try world foods.”  “THIS DISH HITS the tastebuds with olives and feta, balanced by sweet tomatoes and delicate touches such as fennel seeds, dill and lemon,” explains chef Liz Egan. For extra flavour and depth, she used Ardmona Rich & Thick Classic – a perfect combination of vine-ripened, Goulburn Valley-grown tomatoes and tomato paste. GREEK-STYLE TOMATO AND LEMON CHICKEN SERVES 4 3 desiree potatoes, cut into 3cm pieces 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 4 (11/2kg) chicken Marylands 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 leeks (white part only), finely sliced 1 tbs fennel seeds 1/2 bunch dill, leaves picked, stalks finely chopped 1 cup (250ml) chicken stock Zest and juice of 2 lemons…

I AM A BURGER NERD. Over countless articles I have written about everything from the importance of structural engineering when constructing the ideal burger to the correct way to eat a burger in the street. What I have only recently realised is that, in doing so, I have become an unwitting pawn in Big Burger’s plans to take over the world. If you doubt me, trust the internet. Google the words ‘burger world domination’ and you’ll get more than 400,000 hits. And if you don’t trust the internet, then trust the evidence I’m about to lay before you: a grand culinary conspiracy is afoot. THE BURGER PRESIDENT Burger chains have long been held up as the worst examples of American culinary colonialism, and with the ascension of Donald Trump, the…

We like to call ourselves the lucky country, and when it comes to local produce, these words couldn’t be more true. Our varied climate supports diverse crops, our vast coastline means we have access to some of the best seafood in the world, our growing interest in provenance is pushing producers to go from strength to strength, and our population continues to transform with the influx of different migrant groups, threading complexity and diversity into the way we eat and cook. My take on Australian food is deeply influenced by my upbringing, my career path, by travelling, and by the amazing produce I am lucky to come across every day. It’s the blending of these that forms the heart of my cooking. The recipes in my book are just some…

“PREP ONE OF THESE BEAUTIES FOR YOUR NEXT SHINDIG – THEY’RE LIP-SMACKINGLY DELICIOUS AND SO EASY TO CREATE.” CHARLOTTE BINNS-McDONALD CHIMICHURRI CHICKEN WING SKEWERS WITH SPICED RICE SERVES 6 You will need 6 long skewers. 1.5kg chicken wings, tips removed, halved through the joint 1/4 cup (20g) salt flakes 500g microwave rice (we used wild rice and brown rice mixture) 250g cherry tomatoes, halved 1/2 red onion, finely chopped 1/2 bunch each parsley and coriander, leaves picked, finely chopped, plus extra coriander leaves to serve 1 avocado, cut into wedges Lemon wedges, to serve CHIMICHURRI 1 long red chilli, chopped 11/2 tbs each dried oregano and smoked paprika (pimenton) 1/2 bunch each parsley and coriander, leaves and stalks chopped 1/2 red onion, chopped 1/2 cup (125ml) olive oil 1/3…

“EVER BEEN GIVEN A BOTTLE OF PORT AT THAT CHRISTMAS PARTY YOU DIDN’T WANT TO ATTEND BUT YOUR MISSUS MADE YOU? WELL, I HAVE THE ANSWER IF, LIKE ME, YOU DON’T DRINK PORT STRAIGHT UP. USE IT TO MAKE MY PORT PUNCH THAT’S GUARANTEED TO GET THE PARTY STARTED.” THE ONE THING I hate about dinner parties is the stress of leaving mid conversation so as to keep the person I am conversing with happily fed. It doesn’t make sense! We have to understand that the menu prep has to be completed beforehand and the finishing touches should be ready to go. And that we all need to lend a hand. If we don’t, before long, it will become a federal election issue to ban dinner parties because the stress…

“ALL OF THE RECIPES HAVE BEEN THROUGH THE FULL OTTOLENGHI TREATMENT… THEY WERE ALL CONCEIVED WITH LOVE AND A BIT OF FLAIR, AND MADE WITH REAL INGREDIENTS AND LOTS OF ATTENTION TO DETAIL.” – YO “THIS IS THE CHEESECAKE TO ROUND OFF A DINNER PARTY.” APRICOT & AMARETTO CHEESECAKE SERVES 10-12 Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. 180g digestive biscuits 100g unsalted butter, melted 70g flaked almonds, toasted, plus extra to serve 750g fresh apricots, halved, stones removed (substitute 500g canned apricot halves, drained) 1 tbs caster sugar 1 tbs amaretto (almond liqueur – from bottle shops) Icing sugar, to serve FILLING 840g cream cheese, at room temperature 170g caster sugar 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped Finely grated zest of 1 orange 5 eggs, lightly beaten 1/3 cup…

“WE ARE LITERALLY DRINKING IN THE LANGUEDOC LANDSCAPE.” FRANCE’S LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON region, nestled in the sultry south of the country with the Mediterranean coastline to the east and the Pyrenees to the west, is rosé ground zero. Lounging in the shade of an olive tree, surrounded by grapevines, beads of condensation slip down my wine glass as bees dance above the rim, buoyed by the warm Sirocco wind. It may seem as though I am wearing rosé-tinted glasses, but this is no romantic scene from a Victor Hugo novel. Rather, it is a real-time snapshot of a late summer’s afternoon at Domaines Paul Mas, one of the biggest wine producers in the region. I take a sip of the pink-hued drink; it’s refreshing, crisp and fruity – the perfect foil to…

talk of the table Combining classic good looks with casual grace, the Vera Wang Wedgewood Elements of Style collection offers place settings that celebrate the natural beauty of unrefined marble while paying homage to more traditional styles. Visit: wedgewood.com.au drink it in Housing one of the most significant Australian Indigenous art exhibitions, the Aboriginal Exhibitions Gallery at Rutherglen Estates in Victoria showcases never-before-seen prints, paintings, sculptures and artefacts. Visit: rutherglenestates.com.au custom curation A meal without wine is like a day without sunshine – a mantra followed by The Wine Society for over 70 years. Enjoy a six-pack of outstanding wines, specially curated to match the food in this issue of delicious. Visit: winesociety.com.au/delicious feelin’ hot S&W Spicy Sriracha Mayonnaise packs a punch that will leave you wanting more. Made from…

OUTSIDE EATS ALFRESCO PARTY Chicken, Gruyere & paprika vol-au-vents, p 36 Rob Dolan True Colours Chardonnay 2015 Slow-roasted brisket with aromatic spice rub, p 102 Woods Crampton Sleeping Dogs 2015 Apricot & amaretto cheesecake, p 116 Baumard Carte d’or Côteaux du Layon 2013 “Balance is everything with the starter; this Yarra Valley chardonnay is ideal. And the red blend is big enough to take on beef, but light on its feet. We then need a wine that matches the cheesecake for sweetness, but keeps you fresh and coming back for more.” Sabine Duval, Sommelier and Senior Buyer, The Wine Society FEEDING FRIENDS SUNDAY SOIREE Pink peppercorn rosé salmon with bay oil and goat’s curd, p 136 Slow-cooked lamb shoulder with zucchini & feta salad, p 20 Blueberry, orange & gin-spiked…

LIKE FASHION, DRINKS go through phases of popularity. The ’70s gifted us sweet rieslings and the rise of cask wine, and the ’80s meant you could dive into an ice-cold wine cooler such as West Coast. The ’90s gave us creamy cocktail culture, where Toblerones and Mudslides led us down the garden path. Then the noughties came, bringing premium vodkas and, more recently, fruit-infused wines and ‘frosé’, a wine/ice adult slushie. Now we seem to be shifting into an era where a new ethos is influencing our drinks culture. Michael Chiem is one of Australia’s leading drinks people at Sydney’s brilliant PS40 bar, which specialises in house-made carbonated drinks. “We’re trying to push the boundaries, using ingredients that aren’t well used,” he says. “We’re fermenting drinks in-house and preparing cocktails…

WINNING MASTERCHEF HAS opened up incredible opportunities, allowing me to pull back on my career as an accountant and focus on pursuing my passion for food. For my first delicious. recipe, I’ve chosen a dish that brings back a lot of childhood memories, sambal hae bee (which translates to dried baby shrimp sambal). This was always a breakfast treat, and traditionally we would eat the sambal on some buttered white bread (trust me, it works). This recipe has been passed down to me by my mother. It is a Nyonya dish, a distinct form of Malaysian cuisine that evolved from descendants of the intermarriages of Chinese immigrants with the local Malays native to Melaka, Penang and Singapore. Their food is a fusion of traditional Chinese and…

“I DESIGNED THIS SPACE FOR GOOD TIMES OF ALL KINDS. A COMMUNAL FEEL MAKES PARTIES INTERACTIVE AND FUN. MY TAKE ON ENTERTAINING IS TO ALWAYS OVER-CATER. SIMPLE FOOD DONE WELL IS KEY.” – PASCALE GOMES-McNABB THE AVERAGE AUSTRALIAN DINER may not know Melbourne-based architect Pascale Gomes-McNabb by name, but they’ve certainly heard of the restaurants she’s had a hand in bringing to life. In designing high-profile establishments such as the original Cutler & Co. and Cumulus Inc. in Melbourne, Sydney’s Bentley Restaurant & Bar, Cirrus and Monopole, and SA’s Penfolds Magill Estate Restaurant (to name but a few), she’s had a hand in the way Australians dine at the top end of town. We’re gathered at Pascale’s latest masterpiece – the North Melbourne terrace she calls home – to…

Every picture tells a story – and with Tasmania’s Tamar Valley, it’s all about the lush countryside where farmers are creating fine produce. It’s this renowned region that’s home to Tamar Valley Dairy, which is gaining a reputation as a maker of gourmet yoghurt. The milk used in Tamar Valley Dairy’s yoghurt range is sourced from Tasmanian farms and delivered straight to their yoghurt makers. The line is growing and now includes fruited, such as raspberry and a combination of strawberry and blueberry, Greek-style and kids’ no-added sugar varieties, all exemplifying the brand’s commitment to quality – and taste. LAMB & POMEGRANATE FLATBREAD MAKES 4 2 tbs slivered almonds 300g lamb mince 2 tsp ras el hanout (Moroccan spice mix) 2/3 cup (80g) coarsely grated mozzarella 1/2 cup (125g) Tamar…

Alex Elliott-Howery is on a mission. The Cornersmith co-owner (with husband James Grant) is passionate about food waste, and her latest book, Salads & Pickles , co-authored with head chef Sabine Spindler, fights the good fight in countless delicious ways. “The book is full of tips and quick tricks for using up what’s left in the fridge at the end of the week,” she writes. “These are all little things that can make a big difference in reducing the amount that ends up in your bin, as well as to your household budget.” The no-waste message is fed by other Cornersmith concerns, including sustainable sourcing of produce, community responsibility and a love of simple, from-scratch traditions. “We pickle not just because we love the taste, but because pickling is an…

FRIDAY FEELING The clock’s ticked past 5pm and your thoughts have moved to the weekend – though if you’re honest, that happened at least three hours ago. What better way to bring it on than with bubbles? There are plenty of affordable non-vintage Australian sparklings, so let The Wine Society help you choose. The Tomich Hill M Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV is a vibrant Adelaide Hills drop that will help put the working week behind you in style. DINNER PARTY ON Is the boss/potential life partner/Prince Harry coming to dinner? Then take things up a notch with a vintage sparkling Australian wine. Made from grapes grown in a single year, vintage sparklings reflect the unique conditions of each growing season and most are priced well below non-vintage Champagnes. For…

Since its birth in 1905, Las Vegas has been a beacon for high-stakes fun and frivolity, even if you never roll a dice. The mere mention of this American city conjures colourful history, poolside glamour, parties for you and your 3000 closest friends, Hollywood stars and, these days, celebrity chefs. But not everything this city has to offer revolves around full-tilt glitz and the frenetic energy of Las Vegas Boulevard (the Strip). If you want to fully appreciate the subtlety as well as the spectacle that makes Vegas such a grand town, step away from the glare of the bright lights and get out there and explore. STAY Where you stay in Vegas will colour your experience significantly. This really is a town where there’s something for everyone – and…

Sydney’s culinary landscape is diverse and dynamic. Nowhere is that more apparent than the central business district, where new venues arrive at a frenzied pace. We rounded up the most impressive cafes, bars and restaurants to appear in the past year or so. Each has a singular charm, sensational food, inviting interiors and thoughtful service. We looked high and low, at heralded players and unsung ones, to bold-face chefs and lesser-known talents. The emphasis is on the new, so revamped favourites including La Rosa in The Strand Arcade and Matt Moran’s Aria didn’t make the list, despite being big-hitters. Talking of Moran, his multi-level food temple in Barangaroo is scheduled to open before Christmas. In the meantime, these are our top picks of the CBD’s freshest addresses. 1 NO-FUSS FINERY…

SWEET OR SAVOURY Pavlova is an all-time favourite, but if I am short on time I turn to The Cook and Baker in Sydney for a medley of their miniature cakes or a simple lemon drizzle cake that my daughter, Silver, can decorate. CHEESE VS CHOCOLATE I am a chocolate fan, but there is always a place for ash-rubbed goat’s cheese, aged crumbly cheddar and quince paste. BOTTOMS UP I’m a five o’clock G&T kind of person, as well as rosé in summer and light reds in winter. HEART OF GLASS I’ve been collecting hand-blown, short-stemmed French glasses for a long time. But since not everyone can be trusted with them, I often use a stemless Riedel. PLATE EXPECTATIONS I have a soft spot for a great plate. I mix…