Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2017 i delicious

HOW TO DEFINE SOUL FOOD? What in life is the equivalent of a big, warm hug? A comforting soup, a cashmere rug, a fireplace, a glass of mulled cider, friends, family, laughter, music and feasting. This issue focuses on soul food; albeit that of the nourishing kind rather than what’s characteristic of America’s Deep South (although fried chicken with grits can do something for the soul when one has spent the previous night enjoying the comforts of a good red wine). The idea of comfort food has shifted slightly over the years – perhaps you’re now having that lasagne gluten or meat free (and if you are, check out our healthy-ish lasagne on page 86). You may be captivated by a whole new world of vegetable cooking techniques and looking…

MENU Smashed cucumber & radishes, fragrant chilli oil Pickled peanuts Raw kingfish, sweet ginger dressing & marinated brook trout roe Drunken Sommerlad chicken Northern-style roast cumin lamb, baby turnips, fried chilli & garlic (served with vegetables & fried rice) Steamed ‘Bunda’ ginger sponge A MODERN CHINESE BANQUET is on the menu in Melbourne as delicious. contributor Andrew McConnell teams up with ArChan Chan, head chef of McConnell’s Hong Kong-influenced Ricky & Pinky restaurant in Fitzroy’s Builders Arms Hotel. The finale of our collaboration series of dinners curated especially for you is certainly set to be grand. Diners will be part of the action as the chefs pair up in the open kitchen, preparing bright, clean dishes packed with flavour. Settle in to the inviting, colourful space and watch as the…

CONNEMARA PEATED SINGLE MALT, $95 From the famed Cooley Distillery, this is a rarity for Ireland, as it’s peated and challenges the orthodoxy on Irish whiskey. It’s potent with earthy undergrowth and briar scents of peat. There’s a firm texture and yet a toasty, mellow feel across the palate. Excellent. JAMESON IRISH WHISKEY, $40 I often like having a small glass of whiskey alongside a beer, and Jameson’s standard release seems to be an easy bedfellow for just about any style of beer. Its sweet-but-smooth, warming-without-heat, easy-to-drink sipping style wins me over so often. GLENDALOUGH 13-YEAR-OLD SINGLE MALT, $135 One of Ireland’s new breed of distillers, Glendalough is one of my ‘new favourites’, offering freshness yet enough depth to satisfy the long, slow drinking it deserves. A spicy yet fruity…

“IT ALL STARTED 10 years ago – it‘s our 10-year anniversary!” Erica Gregan, at the helm of the Gregan Group of bars and bistros with husband and Wallabies hero George Gregan, is explaining how she knows Benoit Gouez, chef de cave of Moët & Chandon. ”We visited Benoit at Épernay with a group in 2007 and – naturally – we hit it off over a few glasses of Champagne. I‘m the number one consumer of Moët!” she says. Benoit is staying with the Gregans while in Australia to launch Moët‘s most recent creation, a premium cuvée named MCIII, at a glitzy event at Sydney‘s Opera House. ”It‘s been under development for 17 years. We’ve had to be really patient,” he explains. ”When we started it was so new; it was…

THIS MONTH I HAVE turned to nourishing vegetarian comfort food to stave off the winter blues. I was reminded, when planning this feature, of a wonderful restaurant chain called Cranks that opened in London in the ‘70s when I was a student. People tended to think they were rather hippy-ish, but they were hugely popular, serving only vegetarian food from huge earthenware bowls. I think I had my first taste of lentils and pulses cooked in interesting ways there. The vegetarian moussaka in this feature is inspired by a dish I first tasted at Cranks. It’s funny how food memories can take you back more than 40 years when something tastes so good. There are plenty of other winter warmers to try, including a creamy pasta, a nourishing spicy soup…

“WHEN I CRAVE CHICKEN SOUP, I DON’T WANT TO BE CHAINED TO THE STOVE FOR HOURS. SO HERE’S A BANK OF SOUPS YOU CAN CHURN OUT – AND THEN BE IN COUCH-MODE – IN NO TIME.” LEMONGRASS CHICKEN & RICE SOUP SERVES 4 1.2kg whole chicken 1.5L (6 cups) chicken stock 2 lemongrass stalks (inner core only), halved lengthways 5cm piece (25g) ginger, thinly sliced 250g microwave basmati rice Coriander leaves, micro shiso and chopped pickled chilli (from Asian food shops), to serve SPRING ONION & CORIANDER SAUCE 1 tbs finely grated ginger 4 spring onions, finely sliced 1/3 cup (80ml) sunflower oil 2 tbs chopped coriander leaves Place the chicken, breast-side down, on a chopping board. Using sharp kitchen scissors or poultry shears, cut down either side of…

“PREPARE TO HAVE ALL YOUR CRUMBLE DESIRES FULFILLED, FROM GOOEY TOASTED MARSHMALLOW AND BUBBLING APPLE TO SPICED RED WINE QUINCE AND CARAMELISED BANANA. SURPRISE THE GANG WITH BOWLS OF ONE OF THESE WICKED BEAUTIES, OR SIMPLY DUNK YOUR SPOON STRAIGHT IN – SOME THINGS ARE JUST TOO GOOD FOR TABLE MANNERS!” BANANA, PEANUT & CHOCOLATE CRUMBLE SERVES 4 You will need a kitchen blowtorch. 250g plain chocolate biscuits 100g unsalted butter, melted, plus 20g extra butter, chopped 125g peanut brittle (from confectionery shops), chopped 4 unpeeled bananas, halved lengthways 1 1 /2 tbs caster sugar 400ml coconut cream 1/3 cup (45g) coconut sugar Thickened cream, to serve Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease a baking tray and line with baking paper. To make the crumble, wrap biscuits…

1. Replica Eames ‘Hang-It-All’ wall hooks in walnut, $135, mattblatt.com.au 2. I.M. Man ‘Charles IV’ hat in grey, $64, imman.com.au 3. Rodeo Show ‘Lexus’ coat, $449, rodeoshow.com.au 4. The Alps framed print, $395, mattblatt.com.au 5. ‘Elin’ cushion, $19.95 6. ‘Mena’ throw, $59.95 7. ‘Zoe’ round storage bag, $34.95 (all from cottonon.com) 8. Christian Louboutin ‘Otaboo’ boot, $2055, (02) 8355 5282 9. Deadly Ponies ‘Morpho’ Tote in black, $749, deadlyponies.com 10. Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2006, $249.99, available from all fine wine retailers 11. Belvedere vodka, $59.99, available from all leading bottle shops 12. La Prairie Platinum Rare Cellular Cream, $1485, laprairie.com.au 13. Giorgio Armani sunglasses, $460, sunglasshut.com/au 14. Ikea ‘Norraker’ bench in white birch, $99, ikea.com.au…

SWEET OR SAVOURY I like to have both when entertaining. It’s a misconception that people only want sweet things to finish. I prefer something with a little bite. My favourite thing at home, without guests, is a tiny quarter of mandarin, a sliver of dark chocolate and an espresso with a shot of sherry or brandy. DINNER PARTY FARE I call it bookending. I give guests sensational drinks and snacks to start, and then an amazing finish, but the middle bit is usually a little disappointing. I love to do a proper affogato and some sticky wine. We might consult the tarot deck and The Secret Language of Birthdays for entertainment. DECORATING A TABLE I lean towards having things beautifully composed, like an Irving Penn still life in the making.…

#MAKEITDELICIOUS PHOTO OF THE MONTH Happy birthday to me! The secret ingredient in this chocolate ‘soup cake’? A can of tomato soup! (Valli’s Kitchen Diary, June 17, p 114). It is so good. #makeitdelicious @mymandolinandi COVER CONVERT: My complete carnivore boyfriend saw the cover of the May 2017 issue (pumpkin and sage baked gnocchi) and inexplicably said, “Ooh, that looks really nice”, so I made it for a midweek dinner. Very easy to prepare, the perfect meal for a rainy evening, and with no complaints whatsoever about the missing meat – just two empty plates! Whitney Eagle FAST AND FABULOUS: I’d just arrived home from work with a little over an hour to make something in time for that evening’s choir rehearsal. May’s delicious. was waiting in the letterbox for…

“On the Limestone Coast, Mayura Station was established in 1845, making it the oldest farm in South Australia. Our involvement in producing Wagyu beef, however, started in the ‘90s when we imported some of the first full-blood Wagyu cattle out of Japan. We pride ourselves on producing a single-source product. Not only do we rear the cattle, but we also grow the grain and fodder they eat. “Our fodder blend is known for including several different types of chocolate; even the occasional Mars Bar! We’ve been doing it for quite some time and it gives the beef a unique and sweet flavour profile. For that reason, a number of chefs around the world find it to be some of the tastiest beef they’ve eaten. “Paul Baker visited for a dinner…

I’M NOT AN OFFICIAL card-carrying member of the ‘offal is king’ club – I can certainly do without the pungent peculiarity of kidneys, thank you very much. But there are some innards that get my own insides smiling – chicken hearts, for instance. They’re not exactly a cultural delicacy in these parts, but when fresh and gently charred, as served at Adelaide’s Shobosho, they are hard to beat. Owned by Simon Kardachi (Osteria Oggi, Press), Shobosho (Japanese for fire station) is a convergence of the yakitori (food on skewers) and izakaya (bar food) worlds of Japanese cuisine, with a contemporary Australian aesthetic. There’s a great energy from the moment you walk in. The dining room is built around the kitchen where the theatre of food preparation is headed by chef…

THE ELEVATION OF THE carrot began back in 2011 when Noma, then the world’s no. 1 restaurant, created a signature dish around ‘old’ carrots cooked in camomile butter for almost two hours. It was complete in 2012 when US chef Dan Barber served a large roast donkey carrot, first with lamb sauce, then, in 2014, with bordelaise sauce, instead of the steak course on the degustation menu at his Manhattan restaurant, Blue Hill. Then there is Paris’ most lovely chef, Pascal Barbot of the three-Michelin-starred L’Astrance, who became most animated when describing to me the best way to peel a baby, or Dutch carrot. (Throw it into a pot of boiling water for a minute, then take it out and give it a rub; the skin slips clean off.) The…

GUEST LIST Joining Erica, George and Benoit are musicians Mark Lizotte (aka Diesel) and wife Jep, Scott Hull, Erica’s sister Melanie Poiner, and former All Black great Andrew Mehrtens. STYLE “It has to be casual. We’ll go out by the pool or in the garden. It’s all about being together with friends,” says Benoit. “We do relaxed Friday-night drinks. Everyone comes together and there are plenty of laughs,” adds Erica. MENU “I don’t want to be in the kitchen all night, so it needs to be simple; I want to be with my guests!” says Erica. PLAYLIST “Half my friends are musos, so generally someone like Mark will take care of that,” says Erica. “Music is a lovely aspect of entertaining, and often a guitar will come out, too.” DRINKS…

SRI LANKA HAS been dubbed the pearl of the Indian Ocean, and certainly for O Tama Carey, the island nation is blessed with a cuisine that warrants treasuring. “I’ve been madly experimenting with Sri Lankan food,” says the Sydney-based chef whose recipes capture the country’s polyglot fare. “It’s an untapped cuisine that deserves to be made modern and accessible,” she adds. Carey, who worked at esteemed restaurants Bistro Moncur, Billy Kwong and Berta before branching out solo, is an ideal ambassador. The enterprising chef infuses traditional Sri Lankan meals with lightness and deftness. Her Lankan Filling Station, currently at Carriageworks Farmers Market, is a street food stall specialising in hoppers (savoury crepes). “I’m a little obsessed with them – you can eat them for breakfast, lunch and dinner.” Carey’s affinity…

WE’RE TAKING A TOUR around Asia – highlighting Vietnamese, Chinese, Thai and Japanese cuisines – with these deeply delicious dishes that show off the various styles of noodle that play such a huge role in cooking across the region. Whether udon or egg, soba or ramen, each of the noodles I’m using brings a certain quality to the various recipes here. Some, such as the long, thin vermicelli in the Vietnamese bun cha, are ideal for soaking up all the flavours of a dressing or sauce. Then there are the ‘bitey’ egg noodles in the Malaysian chicken mee goreng (the name means ‘fried noodles’ in Malay), which add body and substance. This sticky, sweet dish is thought to be derived from Chinese chow mein, and you’ll find versions of it…

The Khmer culture of Cambodia, influenced over the centuries by Indian, Siamese and Javanese kingdoms, is ancient, intriguing and gracefully elegant with its heady juxtaposition of Hindu and Buddhist history. Emerging from the ravages of its recent history of war and genocide, Cambodia is a country in transition; its people forward looking with a fierce resilience and optimism, rebuilding a culture massively damaged by the Khmer Rouge regime, when disruption created a loss of tradition and cultural identity. Food is at the heart of that reinvention. I recently returned to Cambodia to immerse myself once more in its cuisine. It had been 10 years since a previous visit and I was awestruck by the development – the change was palpable. Cambodia is a feast for the senses, from the ancient…

“IT’S THE FOOD THAT MAKES SRI PANWA A RARE GEM AMONG RESORTS. THE PIZZA IS SOME OF THE BEST I’VE EATEN.” I’M LOUNGING ON A huge pillow on the deck of rooftop bar Baba Nest and I feel like I’m on top of the world. The sun is dipping into the deep blue of the Andaman Sea far below as I sip on a glorious Baba Daiquiri. Deeply relaxed, I realise choosing which cocktail to drink was probably the hardest decision I’ve made today. Having experienced the backpacker version of Thailand in my early 20s, it’s a revelation to stay at the uber-luxurious five-star Sri panwa in Phuket – a resort that year-on-year wins international awards for its boutique accommodation, bars, spa and stunning location. High on the tip of…

TREAT YOURSELF WICKED EATS Champagne-battered zucchini flowers with cheese, p 56 Crumbed fish balls with green sambal, p 82 Gorgonzola, pumpkin, maple-cured bacon & maple syrup toastie, p 112 “Winter is my favourite season to indulge, and a little decadence goes a long way with these oozy zucchini flowers, spicy golden fish balls and an utterly morerish toastie.” Phoebe Wood, Food Director WINTER COMFORT SUPER SOUL FOOD Chipotle chicken & sweet potato comforter, p 100 Sailors Grave Brewing ‘Down She Gose’ Lentil moussaka bake, p 72 Tokar Estate Carafe & Tumbler Tempranillo 2016 Sugar-free chocolate & sticky date pudding, p 46 ‘Coffee White Russian’ - Vestal Vodka, Mr Black Coffee Liqueur, full-cream milk  “Fun food, fun drinks – that’s the feel here. I love playing with the line-up of matches…

SALT-BAKED MUD CRAB SERVES 4 AS A STARTER 1kg live mud crab (order from your fishmonger) 1kg white rock salt 1kg pink Himalayan rock salt (substitute extra white rock salt) Sourdough baguette, aioli and lemon slices, to serve Freeze the crab for 30-60 minutes to put it to sleep. Place crab face-down on a chopping board. Holding the body with a tea towel and using the point of a sharp knife, make an incision through each eye, about 5cm deep; this is the most humane way to dispatch crabs. Remove shell from body, wash under cold water and set aside. Using your fingers, remove and discard the gills, then cut crab in half down the middle. Using a rolling pin or kitchen hammer, gently crack claws part-way through. Combine the…

1. Lightly brass spoons (set of four), $97, lightly.com.au 2. Lightly brass salad servers, $55, lightly.com.au 3. West Elm ‘Gold’ cake and knife set, $69, westelm.com.au 4. Lightly oval salad servers in copper, $82.50, lightly.com.au 5. Dinosaur Designs ‘Resin Bones’ servers in Rock Swirl, $100, dinosaurdesigns.com.au 6. Dinosaur Designs ‘Resin Circle’ servers in Black & Snow Swirl, $110, dinosaurdesigns.com.au 7. Country Road ‘Flynn’ salad servers, $29.95, countryroad.com.au 8. Alessi ‘Collo-alto’ salad server set, $89, petersofkensington.com.au 9. Città hand-forged salad servers (set of two), $64.90, cittadesign.com 10. Spence & Lyda ‘Curve’ salad servers, $105, spenceandlyda.com.au 11. Freedom ‘Charm’ cake server, $19.95, freedom.com.au…

I DON’T KNOW about you, but whenever I hear the adage ‘you are what you eat’, it feels like a pre-emptive strike against my enthusiasm for over-eating. But when you’re talking about King George whiting, the quip is a compliment. Its sweet, clean flavour with notes of freshly cut grass and asparagus, together with its firm, tight texture, are a direct result of its diet. King George whiting, one of 10 whitings caught commercially, use their conical snouts to forage through the sand and mud of shallow intertidal seagrasses growing in inlets and bays, feasting on such delicacies as yabbies, prawns, soldier crabs, worms, pipies and mussels. Truly a meal fit for a king. Known as perhaps our greatest fish, the King George was named, back in 1829, after King…

AS AN ADULT, I’m not really a big dessert eater, almost always preferring to eat cheese as a final course. But there’s something about winter, being wrapped in a blanket with a warm bowl of something comforting, sweet and warming… I have fond memories as a kid of having a sticky date pudding hidden away in the freezer, for unexpected guests or special occasions. Of course, I always hoped I could convince my parents that every day was a special occasion and we should crack it open. But why should we feel guilty about enjoying dessert once in a while? I love re-creating my favourites, and those of others, determined to make us feel better about what we consume rather than attaching shame or feelings of ‘naughtiness’. This recipe has…

“COLD WEATHER MEANS IT’S TIME TO TUCK INTO PLENTY OF ROASTS AND BRAISES, AND IT’S SOMETHING THAT I LOOK FORWARD TO EACH AND EVERY YEAR. THE SMELLS THAT WAFT FROM THE KITCHEN WHILE A DISH IS ROASTING IN THE OVEN ARE INHERENTLY COMFORTING. IN FACT, THE SMELL ALONE IS ENOUGH TO WARM YOU UP! “A ONE-POT ROAST IS SOMETHING I COOK AT HOME MORE AND MORE, SO I’M SHARING A FEW OF MY FAVOURITE RECIPES WITH YOU HERE. THESE DISHES ALL HAVE GREAT DEPTH OF FLAVOUR AND ARE WONDERFULLY JUICY. THEY’RE THE ULTIMATE WINTER WARMERS, AND ARE PERFECT FOR FEEDING THE FAMILY OR AS A DINNER PARTY DISH. ALL YOU NEED IS A SIMPLE GREEN SALAD AND PERHAPS A WARM BAGUETTE AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT TO SOAK UP ALL THOSE DELICIOUS…

“LAYER BY LAYER, THESE LASANGE ARE A LABOUR OF LOVE, BUT YOUR PATIENCE WILL PAY OFF; DON’T LET THE RECIPE SIZES INTIMIDATE YOU. MY FAVOURITE IS THE BONE BROTH LASAGNE, WHERE I USED GOAT’S MILK PRODUCTS TO REDUCE THE LACTOSE LOAD.” GLUTEN-FREE EGGPLANT PARMIGIANA LASAGNE SERVES 6-8 3 x 400g eggplants, cut lengthways into 5mm-thick slices 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil 3 tsp dried oregano 2 cups (200g) almond meal 3 zucchini, thinly sliced lengthways 80g fior di latte cheese (from good delis – substitute mozzarella), coarsely grated 250g cherry truss tomatoes 250g fresh buffalo mozzarella, torn Basil leaves and store-bought pesto, to serve CHUNKY TOMATO SAUCE 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 4 anchovy fillets in oil, drained, finely chopped 1…

I LOVE TOAST. There’s nothing better than hot toast with a thick layer of melting butter threatening to run down your arm, or bubbling melted cheese on a slice of your favourite bread. I feel I was destined to write this book, as toast, cheese on toast and toasties are my thing. If pastry and chocolate are my profession and passion, then toasties are my hobby and obsession. Over the years, I have honed my cheese on toast to be the best it can be – but I’m not finished experimenting. Whether savoury or sweet, with or without cheese, my toasties are made with the same care as one of my elaborate sweet creations. Hopefully this book will open your eyes a little wider to the myriad possibilities for the…

A pilgrimage to Perth has never been quite so auspicious. For many years at least from the perspective of snooty east coasters Australia’s most remote capital city was considered a lacklustre mining town. That cavalier assessment can no longer be supported Blessed with a majestic river, sylvan parks and bottle green beaches, the Western Australia metropolis has lately been enhanced by sleek hotels, inventive restaurants and captivating neighbourhoods. Few developments embody the city’s newly polished status as does Crown Towers Perth. The hotel, opened last December as the third addition to the casino complex in Burswood, is arresting inside and out. Soaring ceilings, elaborate chandeliers and vibrant furnishings convey the impression of a gilded property in Dubai From the multi-tiered pool to the multi level penthouse, it’s a splashy conceit.…

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