Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2019 i delicious

WHAT DOES COMFORT food mean to you? This was the pressing question on our minds as we prepared our heartiest issue of the year. Goodness combined with warmth, a sense of nostalgia that melts easily into happiness, but not necessarily ‘heavy’, as the plentiful use of plants and vegetables comes to the fore. Many old techniques are new again – slow cooking; a focus on seasonality; baking from scratch; bread, dough, puddings and cakes – which sees familiar flavours become something ‘wow’ with interesting fresh twists. It’s a sexy sort of soul food – humble and hearty but a little bit luxe. For Shannon Bennett, feeding a large family means dishing up soups that are good for the soul but substantial enough, and with a star ingredient, to be the…

THE PRODUCER EMMA DAVISON, GENERAL MANAGER, FREMANTLE OCTOPUS “We’ve been doing this for 20 years,” says Emma Davison of Fremantle Octopus. “The business comes from humble beginnings; the founders refined the process in a home kitchen and bottled in their garage to sell it at local markets. To now be processing three to four tonnes daily… we’ve learnt a lot.” Calling the pristine waters off Australia’s west coast home, the 14 fishing boats of Fremantle Octopus catch sustainably. “This species hasn’t been found anywhere else in the world, so we’re very lucky,” Davison continues. “Our octopus is regarded as the best because of its quality, the colour of its flesh, the flavour and texture. It all has a lot to do with its diet – abalone, rock lobster, blue swimmer…

WHAT DID THE mushroom say on his first date? “Hi, I’m a fun guy.” What the mushroom should have said was, “I’m an undercover superhero”, because mushrooms are leading the way in improving human and environmental health and solving not-so-small global issues such as world hunger, ecological degradation, rehabilitation after natural disasters, and disease and pest outbreaks. Food and agriculture writer Michael Pollan has dedicated his latest book – How to Change Your Mind – to ’shrooms, so it’s no surprise where the next functional food frontier lies. Fix yourself a cup of superfood mushroom coffee while you read on. Pollan is researching the potential for psilocybin, the psychedelic compound in ‘magic mushrooms’, to treat various mental disorders. But disruptors globally are unlocking the applications of fungi beyond food and…

ASK DARREN ROBERTSON about the versatility of pumpkin and he’ll tell you how brilliant it is not only in savoury dishes, but also in desserts. “There are a lot of things you can do with pumpkins, but they do really well in muffins, friands, tarts and ice creams,” says The Three Blue Ducks chef, who has a flair for maximising quality seasonal produce. Whether he’s smoking it, roasting it with spices, or adding texture to leave pumpkin looking as good as it tastes, Robertson is determined to always get the most out of the produce he works with. Case in point: his stuffed baby pumpkins recipe. “It’s a lovely way to serve this dish within the skin itself… it’s nice to showcase the pumpkin,” Robertson says. “And obviously the skin…

“BEEF UP THIS SOUP WITH A SIDE SALAD OR SOME BROCCOLI AND LEMON OLIVE OIL.” SOUP SHOULD NO longer be called soup – call it happiness and fulfilment. Tell me a great food nation that doesn’t celebrate their culture through a soup? This nourishing dish should be the vehicle to deliver seasonal produce in a way that is exciting yet comforting. As well as culture, it should celebrate the simplicity of good, quality ingredients and how they ought to be handled. Whether it’s a hearty soup, or a light and fresh interpretation, don’t be intimidated and think you have to be a ‘chef’ or ‘cook’; think of yourself as a curator of ingredients for the night. And if you’re wondering how to make soup a mainstay feature of the night,…

“SERVE THIS WITH A FEW DOLLOPS OF AIOLI AND PLENTY OF CRUSTY BREAD TO MOP UP THE JUICES.” AN IMPORTANT ASPECT of California cuisine that people identify with is a focus on health, particularly given the explosion of the wellness industry in the last five years. In the heartland of showbusiness and entertainment, people want – need, even – to look good. Health and exercise trends come thick and fast from California, before making their way into the gyms, supermarkets and coffee shops of the rest of the world. This book is more about eating with a ‘healthful approach’ than about prescribed notions of ‘healthy eating’. I believe eating a wide range of unprocessed foods is the key to good health. Californians put as much emphasis on vegetables as they…

CASA UROLA is a refined yet unstuffy take on pintxos, with a less-is-more approach. Think fresh white asparagus with a warm egg yolk, and the day’s best shellfish served in a spoon and topped with salt cod brandade and salmon pearls BAR TXEPETXA is the home of anchovies in this city. You can’t go wrong if you order its specialty, prepared in any of its guises. It’s a tiny space, so ditch the idea of getting a table – find some standing room, snack and drink, then move on. GANBARA ’s magnificent display of fresh mushrooms reveals this bar’s forte. Check the menu for hot items, too. Order the steak, the Padrón peppers and the mushrooms, and while you wait, browse the counter for more excellent pintxos BAR NESTOR offers…

THERE WAS A TIME when a weekend at an English country house involved dusty, draughty rooms and creaky hallways with hospitality from the school of Fawlty Towers . Today, the curling wallpaper, dated floral prints and tepid beans on toast have given way to a romantic rural allure as hospitality and food heavyweights redefine the British escape to the country. There’s UK-based Aussie chef Skye Gyngell heading the kitchen at the Grade II-listed Heckfield Place in Hampshire; the five upscale Pig hotels, which uphold that great British tradition of restaurants with rooms; Lympstone Manor, chef Michael Caine’s charming Georgian manor house, restaurant and vineyard overlooking the Exe estuary; and Lime Wood Hotel, a well-mannered medieval hunting lodge that pushes the limits of bucolic bliss. Near the quaint Hampshire town of…

APRIL’S MOST-LIKED POST 3116 likes, 97 comments We’re never one to tease but… you can find the recipe to our chocolate, caramel and malt cheesecake at delicious.com.au. Recipe: @phoeberosewood Photo: @chriscourt Styling: @kirstenljenkins APPLE OF MY EYE: My 12-year-old daughter and I love reading the magazine each month and planning new meals to cook together, with many recipes making it onto the dinner rotation. As soon as the May magazine arrived I knew the toffee apple cake with apple maple caramel (p 12) was the cake we had to make! This month, my parents celebrated their 40th wedding anniversary with cocktails and cake. They’ve retired to regional NSW to plant an heritage apple orchard, so this was perfect! Rosie Somers TAKES THE CAKE: I just thought I’d let you know…

FIRST COURSE Fried bun, taramasalata, salmon caviar, dill Pickled carrots, turmeric, shallots, yoghurt Hummus, Persian saffron XO, our bread Cold cut white chicken, harissa, eggplant, spring onions, tahini Chemen-cured kingfish, kombu, pickled cucumber, urfa biber SECOND COURSE Conchiglie, torn chicken, cavolo nero, lardo, Aleppo pepper, preserved lemon Grass-fed Rangers Valley scotch fillet, olive oil whipped garlic, onions Burnt corn, salted ricotta, saffron, smoked almonds Aged Persian rice, toasted noodles, pickled raisins, baharat THIRD COURSE Peanut butter ‘baklava’, tahini caramel, chocolate ice cream…

UNICORN HOTEL CELERIAC SCHNITTY SERVES 4-6 Plain flour, to coat 300g panko breadcrumbs 1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 2 eggs 1 cup (250ml) milk 2 celeriac, peeled, sliced into 2cm-thick rounds Clarified butter or sunflower oil, to deep-fry Mash and lemon wedges, to serve BRAISING STOCK (MAKES 2L) 2 onions, halved 2 large carrots, halved lengthwise 2.5L vegetable stock 5 garlic cloves, bruised 1/2 bunch thyme 2 tomatoes, cut into wedges 12 dried shiitake mushrooms 1 sheet dried kelp GRAVY 60g coconut oil 1/3 cup (50g) plain flour 600ml braising stock (recipe above) For the braising stock, heat a large chargrill pan to high heat. Grill onion and carrot, turning, for 6-8 minutes or until charred all over. Transfer onion and carrot to…

CHUNKY SOUP: MEADOWBANK SYRAH 2018, $45 Tasmania and syrah (shiraz) are not especially synonymous, but a high-profile wine trophy for a local producer thrust the variety into the limelight. This is a svelte, spicy, silky red of purity and vitality. Match with something ultra hearty. BEEF AND VEGETABLE SOUP: THOMAS WINES TWO OF A KIND SHIRAZ 2017, $25 There’s a historical tradition of blending McLaren Vale and Hunter Valley shiraz, but few producers keep the exchange alive. Enter winemaker Andrew Thomas. This is outstanding; rich, deep and dark, with fine tannins. HEARTY VEGETABLE SOUP: HELLYERS ROAD ORIGINAL SINGLE MALT WHISKY, $85 Australian whisky has come far and stands tall among global examples, with Hellyers Road in a higher echelon. This is a smooth dram with caramel, sweet…

WHILE SOME LOVE winter, it can drive others crazy. Leaving the toasty cocoon of your bed after your alarm goes off can be taxing. I totally feel you! But when you finally do find the motivation to pull yourself from under the covers, I have a great winter comfort food recipe that will make the out-of-bed hours worthwhile – and result in a meal that’s equally as cosy as your bed. It’s time to treat yourself by tucking into my Singapore-inspired lamb soup. Every well-prepared family has a pan of soup on the go in winter, and this highly spicy version will go down a treat. It’ll give you a nice, warm feeling to look forward to during a cold snap. The addition of homemade curry paste is what takes…

TODAY WE HEAR a lot about food to nourish more than just the body – something akin to the soul food of the US. Do we in Australia have a true soul food? Originating in the US, it was the cuisine that grew from the meagre slave kitchens of the cotton plantations and tobacco fields of the Deep South. It then spread, after emancipation, to the newly industrialised cities as the freed men and women struck out in search of work and better life in The Great Migration. As with so many cuisines of displaced peoples, the plates of rice and beans, collard greens, cornmeal and chitterlings became not only dinner, but connections with heritage and family past. They were made with ingredients that were cheap and readily available such…

BACON IS SO much more than a salty side to eggs or the ‘B’ in a BLT, and I hope my recipes make people re-imagine its role as a mere staple. I think bacon can be various things, and all at the same time – smoky, sweet and salty; sticky, caramelised and crispy. It’s definitely appealing to the eyes and especially the nose. I can’t think of a more genius ingredient that brings the comfort factor in food. I love using bacon in unlikely flavour combinations, too. The bacon and kimchi pot stickers feature two strong flavours, yet they make a perfect match in the dumplings. There’s also the tangy sourness of tamarind and saltiness of fish sauce, which are the surprising ingredients used to marinate streaky-bacon-wrapped chicken wings. Again,…

Dominic Smith, Food Editor @the_butlerspantry_ STICKY DATE PUDDING WITH BANANA PRALINE SERVES 6 “Who doesn’t love a crumble? It’s even better when PAIRED WITH STICKY GOLDEN SYRUP IN A PUDDING.” 11/4 cups (185g) self-raising flour, sifted 2/3 cup (150g) raw caster sugar 2 tsp ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp ground ginger, plus extra to serve 50g unsalted butter, melted 2/3 cup (180ml) milk 1 cup (140g) medjool dates, stones removed, chopped Ice cream, to serve BANANA PRALINE 3/4 cup (165g) caster sugar 75g dried banana chips, finely chopped SAUCE 1/2 cup (110g) brown sugar 40g unsalted butter, chopped For the praline, grease a large baking tray and line with baking paper. Place sugar and 2 tbs cold water in a small saucepan over high heat. Cook, swirling pan, for 6-8 minutes…

NESTING INSTINCT Take flight from South Australia’s capital to experience a unique dining experience perched among the Adelaide Hills. Just 20 minutes’ drive from the city, you’ll find Golding Wines’ NIDO (it means ‘nest’ in Italian). Here, friends of a feather come together to enjoy a four-course meal and premium wines – inside a handcrafted human-sized nest. goldingwines.com.au CHECK IN 1 A brand-new luxury resort has arrived in the heart of Dubai, bringing six restaurants and bars with it. The newly created culinary hub at MANDARIN ORIENTAL JUMEIRA (above and left) boasts views of the Arabian Gulf and the city’s iconic skyline. mandarinoriental.com/dubai/ jumeira-beach/luxury-hotel 2 Set among the vineyards of the Hunter Valley near Pokolbin in NSW, you’ll find the newly opened 70-room VOCO KIRKTON PARK (above). The harvest from…

TUSCAN ENTERPRISES Drive down ancient roads amongst olive groves, vineyards, and the rolling hillside of Tuscany. Stay at magnificent Tuscan villas or stone farm houses that scatter the countryside. Beautiful stays in Amalfi, Cinque Terre, Rome, Venice, Paris, Provence, and more. tuscan@ozemail.com.au 0407 260 816 tuscanyandprovence.com.au IBERTOURS TRAVEL Visit the region of The “Iberian Triangle”, Spain, Portugal and Morocco. Speak to our experts who can help tailor make an itinerary just for you. Private tours, gastronomic tours, walking tours and much more! travel@ibertours.com.au 1800 500 016 ibertours.com.au ITALIAN DELIGHTS TOURS With a great balance of culture, food, wine and stunning natural and man-made landscapes, our Italian small group tours capture everything a mature traveller would want from an Italian experience! info@italiandelights.com.au 1300 681 822 italiandelights.com.au ZEBRANO | FASHION 14+ Exquisitely…

PURE INDULGENCE Bacon & kimchi pot stickers, p 96 Fried chicken with Aussie truffle mash and gravy, p 26 Mac ‘n’ cheese lasagne, p 108 “This menu has not one, not two, but three of my favourite things: bacon, fried chicken and mac ’n’ cheese. Not only is this my ultimate trifecta of deliciousness, each dish has had a clever update that gives me something new to try this chilly season. Winning at winter!” Samantha Jones, Editor UNIQUE SWEETS Pumpkin & chocolate eclairs, p 62 2016 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon Vegan poached rhubarb & orange self-saucing pudding, p 122 2016 Cape Mentelle Shiraz Brioche waffles with bacon, apple & walnut butter, p 99 2017 Cape Mentelle Chardonnay “My wife Sarah always comments that there is another stomach for dessert; it’s…

• CHICKEN “Chicken doesn’t need to be boring. A well-raised, carefully cooked chicken can spin your wheels as much as a fancy steak or other luxurious frippery. No wonder fried chicken is so popular. Every cuisine that I know of has some variation of a deep-fried bird. As chooks are cheap to raise, they were the protein of choice for poorer parts of the community, and from these humble roots came an easy familiarity with chicken in general. Deep-frying nearly always improves an ingredient, and the rest is recent history.” • MUSHROOMS “Mushroom season really sets the tone for the coming winter and comfort-eating season. Our waistbands turn elasticated around the same time pine mushrooms start to roll in! We care a great deal about sourcing the best possible ingredients and treating…

FERMENTATION IS AN excellent way to preserve what would normally be thrown in the bin – and I hate to see any food go to waste. A significant part of what I do at Rough Rice is based around waste minimisation, working with organisations like MONA to reduce what vegetable matter goes into their compost. For example, 350 kilograms of leftover vegetables from last year’s Dark Mofo have been fermented into a ‘salsa’ that will be their base sauce for this year’s festival. Full circle. Around Hobart I have a network of small-scale farmer friends who will often call me saying, “I’ve got 60 kilograms of cucumbers (or turnips, squash, tomatoes…) that aren’t pretty enough to sell to restaurants – is there anything you can do with them?” The answer…

There are few more relaxed ways to take in Europe’s history, culture and cuisine than on a tranquil river cruise. And on Travelmarvel’s European Gems journey along the iconic Rhine, Main and Danube rivers from Amsterdam to Budapest, a bucket list of unique experiences awaits. Set sail on the 15-day cruise aboard Travelmarvel’s refurbished Classic ships, or the Contemporary river ship – set to launch in early 2020. You’ll get to see more of Europe with greater comfort and ease, as you only need to unpack once to explore five countries and 15 villages, towns and cities. A MOVEABLE FEAST The Contemporary river ship boasts three drinking and dining options, from fine dining to pub-style fare. Forty-one meals – 14 breakfasts, 13 lunches and 14 dinners – plus soft drinks,…

The fertile land of the Barossa was a welcome invitation for Johann Gramp to plant the first commercial Jacob s Creek vineyard so he could make the wine he missed from home in Bavaria One hundred and seventy two years later, that same lush environment became the ideal venue for the brand’s three-day Our Table event. The experienced winemaker invited journalists, Instagram influencers and food lovers from around the world to the event, which brought people together to enjoy food, wine and culture. LONG HISTORY More than 40 guests arrived at the end of the year’s vintage to experience a shared love for exceptional produce and great wine, and to find out more about the rich heritage of Jacob’s Creek in the region. While the brand has grown to include…

A: People hate chicken drumsticks. Everyone has been programmed to go for the darker thigh meat. Which I like. But the drumstick is the underdog of the chicken world. Nobody likes breast really either – it’s too dry. Well, you like breast. C: I prefer thigh, actually. A: But everybody loves thigh. It’s got more fat; it’s juicy, tender, all that. And the poor chicken drumstick is left behind. C: Here we go then! Bring on the drumsticks. They work well for soup. A: Ramen! C: Not ramen, but we’re rammin’ the flavour in! Loads of garlic, some ginger, lemongrass. Chilli, mushrooms, coriander. A: Sounds good so far. C: Then we’ll brown the legs, skin on. Even better if they have their feet! I’d put chicken wings in there too…

WHEN GEORGE CALOMBARIS was in Los Angeles earlier this year, he did what any in-the-know Australian would do. He stopped by E.P. & L.P., the West Hollywood hotspot operated by expat entrepreneurs Grant Smillie and David Combes and, until recently, helmed by star chef Louis Tikaram. delicious. was there to capture the ensuing feast, a synthesis of Mediterranean and Asian flavours, that unfolded on the rooftop of this photogenic eatery. For the past four years, the former Longrain chef has captivated Angelenos with his signature pan-Asian cooking, a pristine blend of Chinese, Vietnamese and Fijian influences that he honed in Sydney. A few months after our photo shoot, Tikaram announced his departure from the restaurant, which imbued our story with the air of a farewell party as he plans his…

“SOME SAID THAT MAC ’N’ CHEESE COULDN’T BE RE-INVENTED, BUT I’VE GIVEN IT A MAKEOVER, SHOWCASING THE CLASSIC PASTA BAKE IN ALL ITS CHEESY, DECADENT GLORY.” Phoebe Wood, Food Director @phoeberosewood CHICKEN, CHIVE & CREME FRAICHE MAC ’N’ CHEESE SERVES 6-8 3 skinless chicken thigh fillets 3 garlic cloves, crushed Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil 2 tbs white wine 1/4 cup (35g) plain flour 250ml creme fraiche 1 cup (250ml) pure (thin) cream 1 tbs Dijon mustard 150g finely grated parmesan 1 bunch chives, finely chopped, plus extra to serve 300g casarecce or macaroni, cooked according to to packet instructions, drained, refreshed 2 corn cobs, kernels sliced Preheat oven to 200°C. Place chicken on a baking tray lined with baking…

When you can’t move for all the paper napkins thrown on the floor, you’re in the right place. In the Basque region’s San Sebastián, it’s a sign you’ve stumbled on a truly great pintxos bar. Follow the debris to a counter heaving with small rolls filled with jamon and harpooned with a toothpick, green olives draped with anchovies, and squares of tuna topped with whipped potato, throw your napkin at your feet, then move on to the next place. This is bar-hopping of the culinary kind, and there’s nowhere better in the world to do it. Basque bar snacks, a refined and often two-bite version of Spain’s tapas, are reason enough for a clued-in epicurean to travel halfway across the world to San Sebastián, or Donostia as it is called…

1. Salt & Pepper ‘Bond’ cocktail shaker, $39.95, saltandpepper.com.au 2. Riedel ‘Extreme’ martini glasses (set of 2), $59.95, riedel.com/ en-au 3. Flamingo cocktail paper napkins (set of 20), $8.95, from Sunny Life (sunnylife.com.au) 4. ‘Time’ hourglass in yellow (and light pink), $40 each, from Hay (hayshop.com.au) 5. Lucite backgammon set in neon orange, $199.95, from Sunny Life 6. 10-dice classic game, $3, from Kmart (kmart.com.au) 7. Rum: Shake, Muddle, Stir by Dan Jones, $19.99, from David Jones (davidjones.com) 8. Malibu Travel Jumbling Tower, $19.95, from Sunny Life 9. Malibu Travel 4 In A Row, $24.95, from Sunny Life 10. Hendrick’s Gin (700ml), $65.95, from Dan Murphy’s (danmurphys.com.au) 11. Playing cards, $15, from Hay 12. Lex Pott for Hay small tray, $55, from Hay 13. Rubik’s cube 3x3, $19, from Kmart 14. Malibu…

An idyllic summer playground of hamlets, Long Island is dotted with stunning sandy vineyards, chic coastal townships, quiet seaside retreats, lush farmland, palatial estates and cedar-shingled houses. Best known for the glitter and glamour of the Hamptons, the destination for celebrities and highflyers, the island is made up of small towns and villages between the North and South Fork, and is a sweet refuge from the unrelenting pace of New York City. As you meander out of the city traffic and into the suburbs, visit Lynbrook Bagels for breakfast. The pretzel-bagel hybrid is the signature bun at this buzzy family run bakery and well worth braving the queue of locals. Save room for lunch at Claws Seafood Market Crab Shack & Clam Bar . Located in West Sayville, off the…

tour du jour Expert knowledge from guides who have lived, travelled and researched the Iberian region is poured into the specialist holidays from Ibertours, who have 28 years’ experience of touring the terrain. See Spain, Portugal and Morocco with the help of those in the know. Visit: ibertours.com.au mixing it up Italian giants Smeg and Dolce & Gabbana have collaborated to create the covetable ‘Sicily is my Love’ collection. Blending art and fashion, the range brings couture into the kitchen. Make a statement with the Smeg Dolce & Gabbana stand mixer, available now. Visit: smeg.com.au barossa beauty Expressing the unique characters of the region, Jacob’s Creek’s Barossa Signature range features uniquely crafted wines from selected vineyards in the Barossa. They’re a true celebration of Australia’s premier wine country. Visit: jacobscreek.com…