Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2019 i delicious

DELICIOUS. IS BUILT for armchair travellers and avid adventurers alike. If our readers aren’t on location hunting for truffles in the South of France, fishing off the coast of Fiji, or on an escapade sourcing the very best barrel-aged feta in Greece, I guarantee they’ll be reading about it at home. Or cooking. And planning. Food is a major motivator for travel. And our annual ‘global’ issue is that ticket to inspiration, combining trending cuisines and destinations with a contributor line-up that reads like the United Nations of food. At home, my family love to explore the world from our kitchen table, re-creating meals and memories we’ve had on wonderful holidays, or simply in anticipation of the next jaunt we are planning. So sit back, strap in and relax –…

MIDDLE EAST FEAST Silverbeet borek with feta, p 22 Jilly Lone Ranger 2018 Chardonnay (New England, NSW) Slow-roasted lamb shoulder with orange & date couscous, p 69 Jilly Lone Ranger 2018 Nebbiolo (New England, NSW) Date & cinnamon squares (maamoul mad), p 95 Jilly Lone Ranger 2018 Gewurztraminer (New England, NSW) “I love the progression into the cooler months – the smell of smoke in the air and the cool chill of the morning breeze. It’s this time of year I find myself reaching for bolder whites and richer reds. I have chosen wines with aromatic lift and depth of flavour to complement the warmth of the menu.” Jared Dixon, Winemaker, Jilly Wines ASIAN BANQUET Scallop dumplings with Sichuan chilli and native herbs, p 89 Chiang Mai ‘hung lay’ pork…

THE PRODUCER JASON COTTER, TUERONG FARM, TUERONG, VIC “There’s an international movement whereby grain is being treated much in the same way as a single-origin coffee, or a wine – as an expression of the place that it’s grown and the variety that’s being grown,” says Jason Cotter of Tuerong Farm on the Mornington Peninsula. Here, Cotter grows sustainably, with minimal inputs, producing Australian hard-white wheats (including the featured Kittyhawk), French red wheats and a handful of ancient grains, all while bulking up around 200 varieties of heritage wheat from the 19th and 20th centuries. Why? “Because the genetic diversity of wheat has narrowed significantly in the last 40 years,” says Cotter. “Earlier wheats offer different protein profiles, and with that comes different flavours, better ease of digestion, potentially better…

EGGPLANT “It’s so versatile, but people get nervous about cooking it. You always get a better texture if you salt it first and then fry it. Or sometimes I will burn the eggplant [over a flame], so that the skin comes off, and then use the inside in a salad. Or chop up the inside with salt, garlic and olive oil, and serve it on top of roast lamb. It’s a winner.” CARROT “It’s not just about chopping them up as a snack, or as chunky vegetables in a pot. I roast carrots and serve with roast chicken, hazelnuts and honey and thyme dressing. I turn them into a salad, use them in soups and make them into a dip.” SILVERBEET “You can use it in so many ways. You…

WHY DON’T WE know more about African food? Perhaps it’s that the current culinary paradigm lumps the diverse foodways of more than 1.2 billion people in 54 countries into a single group. Distilling ‘African food’ into a handful of distinctive dishes is as problematic as defining European food by a single schnitzel or plate of pasta. There are the heady flavours of the Maghreb, a land of couscous, dates and almonds. The curries of West Africa are built on fried onions, tomatoes and chillies, while okra and peanuts thicken stews that are served with cassava, plantain and tomato-laced jollof rice. Locals around Lake Victoria eat jet-black fly burgers – providing a nutritious source of protein – when the bugs swarm in the wet season. From South Africa to Botswana, the…

“IF YOU LOOK AT THE TAGINE, OR THE MEXICAN RIBS, OR, IN FACT, THE PORK, THEY ALL BENEFIT FROM BEING MADE THE NIGHT BEFORE.” THE USE OF spices lies at the heart of much of Neil Perry’s cooking. “I love Moroccan, Chinese, Mexican… it’s the way I cook at home, and the dishes here are some of the simple favourite recipes that I cook.” That love of spice is not confined to the Perry home. His Spice Temple restaurant in Sydney celebrates its 10th anniversary this year and, says the chef, it “has always been true to its name – a temple of spice”. “From the very beginning, we have used chilli in all its forms. We have also loved Sichuan pepper and its wonderful numbing ability, as well as…

PROVENANCE “The producers who make up this menu are all very special individuals who inspire me. We cooks can only be as good as the produce we are able to serve. These producers are the lifeblood of what we do. We share similar values and, together as a collective, we wish to acknowledge the traditional custodians of this land, upon which we stand and whose indigenous produce we feel so privileged to be able to work with.” SEAFOOD “Being of Cantonese descent I am totally obsessed with seafood. We are so fortunate to live in a country that boasts pristine oceans and waterways, which are well-managed. When Josh Niland’s Fish Butchery is closed on a Monday and Tuesday, I don’t know what to eat or cook with! Having regular access…

‘We can pickle that” should be the unofficial slogan of Oregon’s centre of culinary creativity, and it’s an outlook its inhabitants apply to everything they do. The motto is one that not only encompasses both the people and Portland’s waste-not approach to food, but also the population’s upbeat attitude towards pursuing creative visions – no matter how big. “There are no bad ideas here,” says Laura Morgan, my lunch companion, who shares the secrets of her home city with curious visitors on The Big Foody Portland walks. “When people here want to test out new ideas, everyone seems to jump in and support them.” We’re seated at the bar of Olympia Provisions – a stalwart deli-style diner that epitomises Portland’s resourcefulness, with its from-scratch approach to cooking (and pickling) and…

MARCH’S MOST-LIKED POST 2660 likes, 44 comments The only problem with these wickedly decadent raspberry buttermilk brownies is that you’ll have to share them with everyone, which is why we always recommend baking a secret batch. Find the recipe at delicious.com.au. Recipe: @phoeberosewood Photo: @chriscourt Styling: @kirstenljenkins A DECADE OF DELICIOUS.: I’ve been subscribing to delicious. for over 10 years. The magazines fill a cupboard in my kitchen and now overflow into a bookcase in the lounge. My husband tells me to get rid of some, even though he loves it when I cook and continues to pay for my subscription. Over the years, I’ve tried hundreds of recipes, from Jamie Oliver’s creamy mushroom soup in May 2008 to the gin & tonic tart from Warren Mendes in May 2016…

EGGPLANT KARNIYARIK ‘SPLIT STOMACH’ SERVES 8 4 medium eggplants 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 800g lamb mince 2 small onions, finely chopped 6 tomatoes, roughly chopped 2 tbs finely chopped oregano 3 bay leaves 1 tbs tomato paste 1 tbs harissa paste 1 tsp dried chilli flakes 1 cup (250ml) beef stock Sunflower oil, to shallow-fry 1 roasted red capsicum, cut into thin strips Pickled yellow chillies and natural yoghurt, to serve Halve eggplants lengthwise and salt liberally. Place in a large colander and stand for 20 minutes. Heat olive oil in a medium saucepan with a lid over high heat. Add lamb and cook, stirring and breaking up any lumps, for 6-8 minutes or until browned. Season to taste. Reduce heat to low, stir in onion and cook…

@mikebennie101 @mikebennie101 HODDLES CREEK ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2018, $22 A brilliant chardonnay that is equal parts generous in flavour and refreshing, becoming a particularly excellent foil for your takeaway curry night. Expect crisp stone fruit and faint nutty-savouriness in this delicious wine. TEMPLE BRUER ‘THE AGONIST’ CHENIN BLANC 2017, $26 From stalwart organic wine producers, this has enough acidity to cut through the creaminess of Indian dishes and comes with a touch of fruity sweetness to manage any spicy heat. Try this out with your best butter chicken. LARRIKIN GIN ‘SCOUNDREL’ LONDON DRY, $75 The dry, botanical freshness of gin married to the gentle sweetness and bubbles of tonic water all marry particularly well with fiery Indian dishes. Larrikin’s dry style here is sophisticated and detailed. HENSCHKE JOSEPH…

TRAVEL AND FOOD go hand in hand on my holidays. I find joy in learning about culture through what the locals eat, and my recent journey to India has certainly brought plenty of great memories. I sampled street food, dined at fancy restaurants and ate everything in-between. It was a great culinary tour, and one where I learnt that one of ancient India’s staple crops isn’t actually rice, but barley, known as ‘jau’ in Hindi. And while most Indians today wouldn’t think to include this ancient grain in their everyday diet, many chefs aim to lure foodies into this healthier option by using it in their dishes. There are so many health benefits to cooking with barley. Some of them include better digestion because of the higher levels of fibre…

RESPECT AND CREATIVITY. These are what drive the newest members of the delicious. contributor family, Jo Barrett and Matt Stone. “We now have the experience of growing our own food and relationships with primary producers to be aware of the resources required to produce food,” says Barrett who, together with Stone, is a delicious. Harvey Norman Produce Awards state judge. “Wasting anything would be disrespectful.” As for creativity, “working with waste in mind, you become more creative and think outside traditions”. The highly regarded young chefs, partners in life and as co-head chefs in the kitchen at Oakridge Wines in Victoria’s Yarra Valley, will be bringing their shared philosophy of sustainable dining to the pages of delicious. , kicking off with a focus on winter greens. “It was only in…

LEBANON IS TRULY beautiful, with landscapes unlike anywhere else in the world and food that’s quite simply divine. That’s what I want you to experience; the positive side of the country that I have grown so fond of. In Lebanon, people say ‘ sahtain ’ before or after a meal. It literally means ‘double health’. What it really refers to is the shared bond of enjoying food. I guess it’s like saying to someone, “Love every mouthful of what you’re about to eat.” I adore this concept. All too often we forget that food is a pleasure and should always be savoured. I called this book Saffron in the Souks because, for me, the name conjures up something exciting, exotic and mysterious. It’s not the definitive guide to Lebanese cuisine…

“THIS XL LAMINGTON IS THE ULTIMATE CROWD-PLEASING INDULGENCE, WITH A LIGHT-AS-AIR SPONGE SANDWICHING JAM AND CREAM.” “COCONUT TRANSCENDS SO MANY CULTURES AND IS ONE OF MY ALL-TIME FAVOURITES. FRESH CURLS GARNISH A THAI STICKY RICE, COCONUT CREAM IS THE BASE OF THE CLASSIC COCONUT PIE, AND DRIED COCONUT GIVES A CRUNCHY CRUST TO AN EGYPTIAN BASBOUSA.”PhoebeWood,FoodDirector @phoeberosewood ARGENTINA LIME & COCONUT TRES LECHE CAKE SERVES 10-12 Begin this recipe at least 6 hours ahead. 200g unsalted butter, chopped, softened 11/3 cups (295g) caster sugar 1 tbs vanilla bean paste Finely grated zest of 3 limes 6 eggs 3 cups (450g) self-raising flour, sifted 600ml buttermilk 375ml can evaporated milk 2 cups (500ml) coconut milk Coconut flakes, to serve LIME & COCONUT CREAM CHEESE ICING 200g pure icing sugar, sifted 150g…

FAMOUS FOR ITS golden beaches, epic surf breaks, glitzy resorts and fresh SoCal flavours, it’s no wonder Cabo, on the southern tip of Mexico’s Baja California peninsula, has become a mecca for holiday-makers, spring-breakers and celebrities alike. The area, which includes Cabo San Lucas and the more laid-back port town of San Jose del Cabo, gained notoriety in the ’50s – much like Palm Springs north of the border – when Hollywood stars would escape to the region’s secluded Spanish colonial villas and resorts to soak up the sunshine, sea breezes and bracing margaritas. That old-world charm has endured at the palm-fringed oasis that is One&Only Palmilla in Los Cabos, while mod hotels such as The Cape in Cabo San Lucas offer a slicker slice of paradise for those who…

THAI CURRY NOODLE SOUP SERVES 4 2 tbs coconut oil 2 large desiree potatoes, peeled, cut into 4cm chunks 1 onion, thinly sliced 1/2 cup (150g) yellow curry paste 800ml coconut milk 2 cups (500ml) chicken stock 1/4 cup (60ml) fish sauce 1/2 tsp brown sugar Juice of 1 lime 600g skinless chicken thigh fillets 200g dried rice noodles, cooked according to packet instructions 2 cups baby spinach 1 long red chilli, thinly sliced Thai basil leaves and coriander leaves, to serve Heat oil in a large saucepan over high heat and add the potato. Cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes to soften slightly, then add the onion and cook, stirring, for a further 2-3 minutes or until soft. Add curry paste and stir until fragrant and potato and onion are…

THE MIDDLE-AGED couple dining at Babajan in Melbourne’s Carlton North on a recent afternoon were sounding a little off-kilter. In-between mouthfuls of hearty salads and deadpan conversation, they kept winding back rather loopily to the same exchange. “She knows her food,” one would observe. “She sure does,” the other would respond approvingly. The ‘she’ in question was chef Kirsty Chiaplias whose mesmerising mélange of Turkish, Greek and wider Mediterranean food can make people slightly nutty. In a spare, sun-dappled room, Babajan serves breakfast, brunch and lunch six days a week and dinner Friday and Saturday. Signature dishes include menemen (Turkish baked eggs), Cypriot haloumi pies, and rose and cardamom rice pudding, while Chiaplias fills the counter with a rotating selection of salads, boreks and Greek treats like kourabiedes . The…

WE ARE LIVING in a sour age! Never has there been so much love for sour foods, whether it be fermented pickles or dairy products, sourdough bread or cider vinegar, a slice of lime in your Mexican beer, or making your whisky or pisco ‘sour’. Acid from the likes of vinegar, lemon juice or a pinch of tartaric acid sharpens flavours and brightens dishes. Sugar and then salt are commonly the flavours we first fall in love with; sourness and bitterness a sign of a more sophisticated palate. But research dating back to Charles Darwin in the 19th century has suggested some children chase very different tastes to adults. More recently, a study in the journal Chemical Senses found that in a group of five- to nine-year-olds, one-third had a…

“JUST REMEMBER TO maintain your sense of humour when in India.” That’s an interesting final message to pass on to someone who is about to embark on a first-time visit to this bold country. But in retrospect, this was the message I kept coming back to over our month-long trip. Arriving in India was, for us, like arriving on the moon: a completely new frontier we weren’t quite sure we were properly equipped for, especially when our first stop was the incredibly busy Kolkata. The capital of the state of West Bengal is a place where the volume feels permanently turned up: the colours, the sounds, the people and the food are all loud. It feels like meeting someone for the first time in a really great, super-noisy bar and…

EARLIER THIS YEAR, prompted by the occasion of her 50th birthday last October, Kylie Kwong announced she would be shuttering her revered Sydney restaurant, Billy Kwong. “I would like a major lifestyle change and the time to explore new-found interests,” she told us. “Community, compassion and connection are where it’s at for me.” That means deepening her collaborations with food communities, including René Redzepi’s MAD Symposium and Maria Canabal’s Parabere Forum, charity organisations like The Wayside Chapel, and the Sydney arts centre and market Carriageworks. But, fortunately for her adoring fans, she won’t be retreating from the pans entirely. Soon, Kwong, a member of the delicious. Harvey Norman Produce Awards expert panel, will debut a casual eatery whose details are being solidified at the time of writing. It will have…

FARE SHARE Time your escape right to feast on one of Martin Boetz’s outstanding paddock-to-plate banquets at Cooks Co-op, or head to Hillbilly Cider for tastings while overlooking the orchard that bears the cider’s fruit. For a more hands-on experience, follow the Hawkesbury Harvest Farmgate Trail and pick fresh, in-season peaches, cherries, nectarines walnuts, pecans and more. SUPER NATURAL It’s only a hop, skip and podcast episode from Sydney, but it’s light years away from the city grind. More than 70 per cent of the region is breathtaking National Park, much of it UNESCO World Heritage-listed. Whether you unwind by hiking, picnicking or taking in towering waterfalls and sublime vistas, this is the place to get a stress-busting dose of nature. RIDE ON With its abundance of wild beauty, the…

La Lupita Taco & Mezcal in the centre of San José del Cabo is a buzzy spot with live music, cold beers and the best tacos in town. Chef Pia Quintana, who helped launch London’s Wahaca Mexican restaurants, knows how to serve Mexican food to a global audience, and her hearty soups and tacos made from hand-pressed tortillas filled with seasonal fish, meat and veg feature clever contemporary twists. The farm-to-table movement in the region is being pioneered by a handful of open-air dining destinations – celebrity chef Javier Plascencia’s breezy Jazamango in Todos Santos and Hierbabuena in nearby El Pescadero both put a modern spin on local produce from ceviche to cocktails, while at rustic-chic Flora Farms in San José del Cabo, everything is grown or made in house…

WINTER ROOFTOPS Bomba (103 Lonsdale St; bombabar.com.au) Keep cosy under Bomba’s heaters and retractable roof while tucking into Catalan-inspired toasties and rich, sticky Pedro Ximenez-braised pork jowl. Peaches (301 Swanston St; peaches.melbourne) The city’s ripest new sky-high bar balances crispy, Sichuan-style fried chicken burgers with delicate, floral cocktails and a blushing interior. The Duke of Wellington (146 Flinders St; dukeofwellington.com.au) Head to The Duke’s heated roof for mulled wine, grilled saganaki with smoky chorizo or duck with Toulouse sausage ragout. The Provincial (299 Brunswick St, Fitzroy; provincialhotel.com.au) This sprawling rooftop bar wards off the chill with snug blankets, fluffy pillows and heaters. Order one of their robust reds and let the afternoon melt away. WARM UP FIRESIDE Neighbourhood Wine (1 Reid St, Fitzroy North; neighbourhoodwine.com) Sidle up to the fireplace,…

tour of beauty Travel experts Touring Abruzzo have been offering all-inclusive, fully escorted trips in central Italy for years. Experience rich culture, traditions and the regional flavours of Abruzzo with truffle hunting, private cooking classes and visits to museums, villages and markets. Visit: touringabruzzo.com handcrafted wares Bring a touch of bespoke design dining to your table. Dinnerware by Robert Gordon for David Jones is now available at David Jones. Handmade in Victoria by artisans, the designs are perfect for any occasion. Visit: davidjones.com cheese to please For more than a century, Frico has been crafting authentic Dutch cheese. From the lush fields of Holland to the fridge, choose from much-loved edam, maasdam, and many other classic varieties. Visit: frico.com/au straight from the sauce Essential in Japanese cuisine, Obento Tonkatsu Sauce…

IT WAS 0600 when we landed in LA and game on! This city never sleeps. I am very lucky to have some amazing Aussie hospo friends who now live here and who super kindly shared some of their finds. FIRST THINGS FIRST… Alfred Coffee (8428 Melrose Pl) is great for a caffeine hit and as close to what we get in Oz as you’ll find. I ordered the cold brew with a splash of are you ready for this? Almond milk. Yep, it’s LA, okay, and when in LA! You know the rest. Lunch is a no-brainer for me. I love chef Nobu Matsuhisa, and his original restaurant, Matsuhisa (129 N La Cienega Blvd), is a gem. A thing to note when ordering sushi with rice in LA: always ask…