Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2019 i delicious

NEW LIFE, NEW BEGINNINGS: so goes the story behind many of the celebrations we have throughout April and Easter. Thus it is a good time to welcome new contributors to the delicious. line-up this month. Ellie and Sam Studd are the children of renowned Australian cheese specialist Will Studd. Will is passing on the baton to a new generation, and has shared his life’s passion and knowledge with Ellie and Sam. As they take on the family business, each month they will share their stories with us – on the memories they have on sourcing cheese with their father, the origins and features of note, and most importantly, how to eat it, cook it or drink with it. They’re an engaging young pair and we look forward to many interesting…

GRAB YOUR PLACE at this special evening of exciting eating as Porteño, PorkStars and delicious. join forces to throw a Year of the Pig feast. We’re going back to where the Porteño story began – the original restaurant on Cleveland Street in Sydney’s Surry Hills, now the group’s vibrant two-storey event space, Casa Porteño. On the night, Porteño’s star pairing, extravagantly tattooed chefs and owners Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz, will treat diners to an exuberant Argentinian-style pork dinner cooked on the restaurant’s traditional parilla (barbecue) and asado (pit of fire) in a venue designed to transport guests to an Argentinian ranch. Along with this celebration of all things pork, guests will enjoy drinks from one of Australia’s most innovative winemakers, Jed Wines. Don’t miss out – book your ticket…

CABBAGE & SPROUT SLAW WITH OYSTER MUSHROOMS SERVES 4 1 cup (60g) nutritional yeast flakes (from health food stores), toasted, plus extra 1 tsp toasted 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 tbs apple cider vinegar 1 tbs lemon juice 1 cup (250ml) extra virgin olive oil, plus extra 2 tbs 500g oyster mushrooms, larger ones torn 1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked, plus extra leaves to serve 1/4 whole savoy cabbage, shredded (we used a mandoline) 400g brussels sprouts, trimmed, very thinly sliced (we used a mandoline) 1/2 cup (75g) macadamias, chopped, roasted To make the yeast dressing, place yeast, garlic, vinegar, lemon juice and 2 tbs water in blender and whiz until combined. With the motor running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. Set aside. Heat extra…

APPOINTMENT ONLY: Sorrenberg (Beechworth, Vic) One of the great rewards of wine region visits is connecting with vignerons. This biodynamic estate has a palpable energy, an amazing underground cellar and some of the best wines in Australia. TRY: Sorrenberg Gamay FOOD AND WINE PAIRING: Graceburn Wine Room/Mac Forbes Cellar Door (Yarra Valley, Vic) This cellar-door-come-wine bar is a brilliant place to work through Mac Forbes’ outstanding wines. After a tasting, dive into nourishing snacks while working through the hip international wine list. TRY: Mac Forbes Woori Yallock RUSTIC CHARM: Helm (Canberra District, NSW) Little has changed in Ken Helm’s cellar door since the ’70s when his wine-making ambitions came to life. It’s a tiny hand-built room adjacent to his winery with bric-a-brac and a slew of awards…

BORN AND RAISED as a Hindu, I have to say that I learnt a lot about Easter through my wife, Rabicca, and my kids, Marcus and Ryan. This inspired me to unleash my hidden potential for cooking western cuisine and got me to take a leap of faith in my baking, too. Easter has also provided me with a lifetime of happy memories; one is where my children fill their baskets with Easter Bunny chocolates, and that led me to bake this chocolate cake with a flavour twist. The result is my traditional white chocolate orange cake with orange syrup – a simple recipe, requiring very few ingredients to satisfy your guests’ appetites for a sweet treat. The full burst of orange flavour mixed with the white chocolate provides a…

A: Hallelujah – we’re finally doing goat! I like goats. They’re adaptable – they don’t need much care or attention, they eat everything, they’ll live on land that nothing else lives on. Interestingly, Australia is the biggest exporter of goat meat in the world, yet we’re the smallest consumer. We don’t appreciate it as much as other cultures. C: You have to work for the flavour in goat, I think. It’s a different texture. A: Let me talk. The reason we haven’t taken to goat is because we’ve got lamb. Lamb is king here. But goats are hardy and resilient, just like me. And smart! C: You’re a bit more marbled than goat. I’m more goat – you’re more hogget! A: Goat is leaner, so you’d usually use it in…

“Mantis are these beautiful little DUMPLINGS and I’m serving them with a burnt butter that’s DELICIOUS.” EASTER IS COMING and George Calombaris is fired up. “I want to know every non-Greek is celebrating, because it’s not about religion; this is about a culture that absolutely lives to eat rather than eats to live… the Greek Easter calendar is probably one of the most foodie-driven calendars, I think, in the world.” And if, like the Greeks, you’ve been fasting for the 40 days prior to Easter Sunday – the original “cleansing diet” as the MasterChef judge laughingly describes it – his indulgent Greek feast is exactly what you need. It stars, of course, lamb. As Calombaris puts it: “Greek Easter without lamb is like a plumber without a spanner.” His lamb…

I GREW UP with a mother who was (and is) an amazing cook, and I didn’t start making my own meals until I left for college and realised that if I wanted to eat well, I needed to cook like she did. I became a restaurant line cook in my twenties and made dishes that were beautiful but that no sane person would ever prepare at home. That’s when I learned the mechanics of cooking and came to understand the relationship between the perfect-ness of an ingredient and the special-ness of the finished dish. This book is about my life as a home cook. It’s inspired by the meals I cook for my family and friends, and it’s filled with our favourite things to eat. Cooking begins when you feel…

“THIS SILKY DARK CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM IS THE PERFECT PARTNER FOR HAZELNUTS AND COFFEE.” CHOCOLATE, CARAMEL & MALT CHEESECAKE (COVER RECIPE) SERVES 10-12 Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. “WHEN MAKING CHOCOLATE DESSERTS, ALWAYS USE THE BEST-QUALITY CHOCOLATE YOU CAN AFFORD. A HIGH AMOUNT OF COCOA LEAVES YOU WITH A WONDERFUL DEPTH OF FLAVOUR, SO SPLASH OUT ON THE GOOD STUFF FOR THESE SPECIAL-OCCASION DESSERTS.” 500g malt biscuits 200g unsalted butter, melted, cooled 800g cream cheese, at room temperature, chopped 1 cup (220g) caster sugar 1 tbs cornflour 3 eggs 250g jar dulce de leche 200g dark (70%) chocolate, melted, cooled 1/2 cup (60g) malted milk powder 1 cup (250ml) pure (thin) cream CHOCOLATE GANACHE 100g dark (70%) chocolate, chopped 1/3 cup (80ml) thickened cream Preheat oven to 150°C. Grease…

YOU COULD ARGUE THAT the most stirring thing to have happened in Canberra’s inner-city suburb of Barton was the death of former prime minister Ben Chifley. Not to be morbid, though the post-war PM’s final beat happened at Barton’s Hotel Kurrajong… in the company of his secretary. Today, the heritage-listed hotel remains – central to the modern-day excitement that is contemporary Barton’s reinvention as a heady and tightly held hospitality hub. While neighbouring areas such as Kingston, Braddon and NewActon tend to dance under any spotlight shone over the capital – Barton has served its time in the wings and is now ready for top-billing. The political classes have long cut deals around here – and it’s a heavy discussion regarding the future of federal Labor that’s being served as…

life’s little luxuries Whether it’s for a house-warming, birthday, or just because, P For Present delivers luxurious gift boxes featuring specially curated Australian products from some of the country’s best brands. Go on, treat yourself! Visit: pforpresent.com.au oodles of goodness Organic and Australian-made, Hakubaku noodles are made with premium-quality wheat and cook in just two minutes. Whether it’s a main meal or snack, somen noodles are a healthy addition in a salad or with dipping sauce. Visit: hakubaku.com.au ode to ol’ blighty The latest addition to its award-winning ’50s Style collection, Smeg’s boldly designed toaster featuring the Union Jack is perfect for those wanting a standout piece that will make mornings that much brighter. Visit: smeg.com.au salt of the earth Favoured by top chefs, Maldon sea salt flakes are the…

JANUARY’S MOST-LIKED POST 1574 likes, 17 comments England, we see your Eton mess and raise you with our Bondi mess. Filled with passionfruit, mango and banana, the odds are already stacked in our favour. Find the recipe at delicious.com.au. Recipe: @chefjessemctavish Photo: @chriscourt Styling: @emmatknowles GARDEN FRESH: While other vegetables wilted in the heat, our marrows and zucchini flourished. Looking through the September 2016 issue of delicious. , I found the three-cheese zucchini pasta bake (Jamie Oliver, p 100). Then I went online to check out more recipes on delicious.com.au. Wow! I am set! Kathleen Bennett HITTING THE SPOT: Just getting over Shannon Bennett’s Italian recipes from last year (August 2018), then drooling over an article from 2017 which ended in a holiday to Penang in early January. We came…

“THE KATOUMARI DESSERT IS A FAMILY RECIPE THAT I’M SHARING FOR THE FIRST TIME IN BRISBANE.” – JONATHAN BARTHELMESS “GUESTS WERE IN RAPTURES OVER THE KRITHARAKI BAKED PASTA.” – PHOEBE WOOD “Speaking in front of his biggest audience to date, Ottolenghi talked life in the test kitchen and the rewarding challenge of his latest cookbook, Simple.”– SAMANTHA JONES “Hello from paradise! A beautiful piece of New South Wales: Lord Howe Island. My island rules!”– COLIN FASSNIDGE A delicious. reader dinner at Brisbane newcomer Greca, a cooks’ tour of Lord Howe Island, a night at the Opera House with the great Ottolenghi, and learning all about the Art of Living with David Jones at Hobart’s Mona. It’s been a hectic month for the team.…

These 15-minute Bruschetta are quick, simple and perfect for parties or picnics. Complimenting the tomato and avocado is Frico Maasdam. Much loved for its sweet, nutty taste, this Dutch cheese has characteristic large holes due to the ripening process. “Frico Maasdam is much loved for its sweet, nutty taste.” CHEESE & AVOCADO BRUSCHETTA SERVES: 4–6, PREPARATION TIME: 5 MINUTES COOKING TIME: 10 MINUTES 1 baguette (ends removed and sliced into 4 bruschetta or 8 canapés) 8 tablespoons Frico Maasdam cheese (grated) 1 large avocado (cut into small cubes) 1 large tomato (cut into small cubes) 1 handful coriander (chopped) 1 lime (juiced) Salt and pepper 2 pinches paprika 4 teaspoons balsamic glaze Preheat oven to 200°C. Cut the baguette into desired size. Brush the sliced bread with olive oil on…

IT IS NO SURPRISE that siblings Ellie and Sam Studd work with cheese. Born to ‘Master of Cheese’ Will Studd, their childhood holidays were spent visiting artisan farmhouse producers in Europe, snacking on every kind of cheese, and at times having to explain to their friends why their dad was also known as the ‘Roquefort Rebel’. The family joke is that their veins run with brie, not blood. Over the past decade, the pair have developed their love of fromage; both have travelled the world, working with celebrated cheesemongers and learning to make and mature cheese. Both are members of the esteemed International Guilde Des Fromagers and, these days, hand select artisan cheeses alongside Will for the ‘Selected by Will Studd’ range, working tirelessly to share these cheeses with the…

“THE DAY THAT I START CUTTING CORNERS IS THE DAY THAT I JUST GIVE IT UP.” “YOU CAN’T REALLY MAKE A MISTAKE IF YOU JUST KEEP IT SIMPLE, YOU KNOW? THAT’S MY THINKING.” IT BEGAN WITH a trip to Sardinia, when he discovered the bottarga being sold in the Cagliari fish markets was made with Australian sea mullet roe, and culminated in last year’s delicious. Produce Awards when Giovanni Pilu’s very own Pilu Bottarga di Muggine – made with that same Queensland roe – won the Outstanding Artisan award. A little of the pungent salted, cured fish roe goes a long way, delivering, in Pilu’s words, a “beautiful fish flavour” to dishes. “We’ve worked with this product for many, many years now and to be recognised by that award, I…

“I’M A SUCKER FOR A GOOD BREAKFAST sandwich, so I wanted to create an option with a slight Asian twist. The char siu bacon reminds me of Sunday-morning yum cha.” “SINCE MOVING TO the US five years ago, the only things that I miss are our cafe culture and our Aussie take on Asian food.” So says Mullumbimby-raised chef Louis Tikaram. And with E.P.&L.P., his West Hollywood restaurant and bar with Botanical Group partners and fellow Australians Grant Smilie and David Combes taking care of the Asian-fusion side of things, that only leaves one hole to fill. Enter Strings of Life, the 50-seat Los Angeles venture from the trio, that will bring pure Aussie cafe vibes to the Design District around Melrose Avenue, delivering what Tikaram says he’s yet to…

INDULGENT BRUNCH Char siu BLATs, p 90 Champagne Larmandier Bernier Rosé de Saignée Brut 1er Cru NV (Champagne, France) Cinnamon & coffee hot cross bagels, p 100 Taltarni Brut Taché 2012 (Victoria, South Australia, Tasmania) Chocolate fudge pecan pie, p 113 Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d’Asti DOCG (Asti, Italy) “Any brunch that has this much decadence should surely have a drinks match just as grand. I like brunch, and fizzy things if I’m not drinking Bloody Marys or mimosa cocktails. So for me we’re going deep on Champagne, Australian sparkling wine and, for the sweeter things, racy, refreshing and high-quality moscato.” Mike Bennie, Drinks Writer VERY VEGIE Spiced pickled eggplant with green beans and feta, p 24 Whole salt-baked pumpkin with raclette cheese sauce, p 56 White chocolate orange cake…

THE PRODUCER ASHLEY PERKINS, PERKINS FISHERIES, YORKE PENINSULA, SA King George whiting are Ashley Perkins’ bread and butter. Specialising in hand-line catching, Perkins is a master of his craft. “It’s the most basic form of fishing, but it’s also the most environmentally friendly,” he says. Quality is always at the forefront. “I could never compete with the bigger operators in volume, but I’ll always aim to produce better quality. Over the years, I’ve asked questions, I’ve learned, I’ve made mistakes, but eventually cottoned on to the technique. “It takes about 12 or 13 seconds from when the fish first feels the contact with that hook to when it is in the ice slurry. People think it’s some sophisticated thing, but it’s really simple: get ‘em cold, keep ‘em cold and…

PUMPKIN “Pumpkin is so versatile – you can stew, braise or roast it – and the variety of pumpkin dishes you can get is amazing. I love how the flavour can vary so much; pumpkin can take a lot of flavour – spicy and sweet. Miso is one of my favourite pairings. Anything spicy – a green sambal sauce, blue cheese and buttermilk, they all work so well! I don’t like pumpkins too big – they can be stringy. Look for smaller ones, which are sweeter. This dish is a classic combination of flavours and textures that naturally work well together.” BROCCOLI “The concept behind this dish came from working with Yotam [Ottolenghi] – we used broccoli every day. He’s a tahini fan and I’m a miso fan, so we…

DEFINING AUSTRALIAN food is difficult. How do you distil a food culture built on imported cuisines and the produce available across our vast landscape? It may not be easy to box up, but Australian cuisine does have a place in the culinary universe, thanks to the chefs and producers whose dedication to working with the land while honing their craft has led to a unique sense of place. This global acceptance of Australia as a serious food player has encouraged more Aussie chefs to look inwards. Even a globe-trotting Nigella Lawson said her top food discovery of 2018 was finger lime, an Australian native. “I had finger lime for the first time in Sydney and it was very exciting,” she said. “We can get them in the UK if you…

THIS WAS GOING to be a column on the plight of fishermen and the horrors of factory trawlers. I’d also undoubtedly have touched on that most mealy-mouthed of disingenuous words, “bycatch”. I was also going to include an in-depth discourse on the ageing of fish, just like the dry ageing Josh Niland does in Sydney and the various umami-boosting preservation techniques like zuke (marination) and kelp curing that Hokkaido-born Masaki Saito employs at his two-star in New York. It would have been an all right column, but at the end of the day you probably already know that dry-ageing fish, if done right, develops flavours and makes for a firmer texture, but if done wrong leaves you with a pasty sludge-puddle that wafts ammonia. And me bleating about over-fishing will…

ASK EMMA McCASKILL what Easter means personally and the answer is simple: “Time out with my family.” That includes weekends at the family beach house on the Fleurieu Peninsula. “I make a large batch of hot cross buns, do Easter egg hunts for the kids and lots of beach walks,” says the South Australia-born chef. “During autumn, the big maple trees near our house in Adelaide drop all their leaves, which means making lots of leaf piles for the kids to fall into.” Professionally, Easter brings McCaskill’s favourite food season. “I love quinces, figs, chestnuts, persimmons, pumpkins, wild mushrooms and apples – lots of beautiful earthy colours to play with. I find autumn is the best time of year in South Australia for picking or foraging. Mushroom season starts and…

Bun-maker’s tip: weigh each piece of dough before rolling to make every bun the exact same size. This is what makes your buns look like the real deal! “What’s not to love about baking your own hot cross buns? Just think about the heady spiced aroma that fills your home, the unique results compared with store-bought, and being able to devour them straight from the oven slathered in butter! These luxurious American-inspired buns will get you smiling.” HOT CROSS BUN BASE RECIPE 3 tsp dried yeast 3/4 cup (165g) caster sugar 150g unsalted butter, melted, cooled 1 egg, plus 1 egg yolk 2 tbs ground cinnamon 2 tsp mixed spice 5 cups (750g) strong (baker’s) flour To make the base buns, combine yeast, sugar and 11/2 cups (375ml) warm water…

Once the blue-collar birthplace of grunge and now the high-tech regional home of Amazon and Microsoft, Seattle is an intoxicating mix of grit, glamour, high-fliers and hipsters. Located on Puget Sound in the Pacific Northwest, Washington state’s largest city is surrounded by water, mountains and evergreen forests, giving it an unrivalled natural beauty and access to some of the best produce in America. The result is one of the most dynamic and bountiful food scenes in the world, fuelled by a heady mix of hot young chefs, an obsession with coffee and cocktails, and an eating culture spanning street food, fine dining and everything in-between. Seattle’s food scene is constantly evolving, with new small-batch producers and abundant farmers’ markets augmenting established providores and historic restaurants. Add to this a rich…

BULA! IT’S THE GREETING you’ll hear numerous times a day and the word impossible to say back without a grin. And it’s no wonder Fijians are always smiling, with 300 islands, each offering its own slice of paradise. My island destination is Malolo, where luxury operator Six Senses has opened a sprawling resort that’s still growing. A 35-minute speedboat ride from Denarau Marina, itself just 20 minutes from Nadi Airport, and you arrive at the Six Senses jetty to the sound of guitars strumming and a beautiful welcome song from the beaming staff. After a refreshing ginger-and-lemon drink, I’m introduced to my Guest Experience Manager – better known by the far more evocative term, GEM. Whisked away on a golf buggy, we pass large private residences and the open green…

JUST DESSERTS I like things I can make ahead of time. Tiramisu with homemade savoiardi and mascarpone for a real showstopper, or a pavlova with seasonal fruits make regular appearances. FRUITY FINALES After a particularly rich meal, melon or lychees are my preferred finish. If we’re eating Japanese food, I’ll serve a bowl of seasonal citrus. SPRITZ PARADE I like making spritzes for when guests arrive, usually with Cocchi Americano or Cynar, a bitter liqueur made from artichokes. After that, it’s all about the wine, usually natural and plenty of it. VIBRANT VESSELS Most of my ceramics are from Japan, minimal brands like Hasami and 1616 / Arita, and more handmade items by ceramicists like Kan Ito and wooden artist Yoshiyuki Kato. Plus flea market finds from Italy and Japan.…