Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2016 i delicious

THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE in magazine land occupies legendary status (thanks to that infamous Vogue documentary of the same name); however, while our September edition is most certainly a celebration of all things seasonal, that’s where the similarities end. Think a carb celebration of the highest order, given that it is our annual ode to all things Italian. Pasta! Pizza! Polenta! Risotto! Gelato! You’ll find so many pages to fold down, be it your Tuscan hit list (p 139), a Sicilian getaway (p 130), or 24 hours in Rome (p 140). We’ve corralled the family of delicious. contributors to celebrate – Jamie Oliver’s on pasta (p 94), Matt Moran covers Italian grains (p 110), Valli Little takes the cheese (p 86), Silvia Colloca whips up Italian street food (p 102)…

From sweet radishes to plump mussels, saltbush lamb and rich creams – our state judges have tasted their way through a record number of unique state finalists. Australian produce goes from strength to strength, and each year of the Produce Awards continues to be more exciting than the last as we celebrate and recognise the restaurant-quality ingredients being produced by Australian growers and producers. “The calibre of produce is something we can all be proud of and is a testament to where we re at in this country in our appreciation and understanding of good food,” says new NSW state judge, Icebergs Dining Room and Bar executive chef Monty Koludrovic. From the Dairy had another big year with outstanding winners from around the country, while Western Ausralia and Queensland had…

LANGUAGE OF LOVE Italian food is almost a second language in Australian homes: pizza, linguine, fettuccini, vongole. These and more all just about roll off the tongue. All that’s missing is righteous drinks that feel good to enjoy alongside, so I asked a couple of chef mates (who I’m guilty of begging for their best buffalo mozzarella to go with olive oil and basil during tomato season) to give me the lowdown on what they like to accompany some of the Italian classics. Pizza and pet nat: Monty Koludrovic of Sydney landmarks Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, and newly-styled The Dolphin Hotel in Surry Hills, says of pizza, “I recently had the Cantina Giardino Frizzante, which is produced with greco grapes from Campania. It’s an umami bomb from tomato land,…

 WHERE WOULD ITALIAN cooking be without the wonderful cheeses that are the lifeblood of so many of its celebrated dishes? Imagine pizza without mozzarella, pasta without parmesan and tiramisu without creamy mascarpone. Many of these famous cheeses and others like Gorgonzola, Asiago and Taleggio have been recognised in Italy by DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) a protected designation of origin promising the consumer that it was made by local farmers and artisan producers using traditional methods. This means that Parmigiano-Reggiano, the nutty unpasterised cow’s milk cheese that is aged for 2-3 years can only be made in Parma, Reggio Emilia and Bologna, while Mozzarella de Bufala Campana (buffalo mozzarella), the soft milky cheese made from a spinning process, is specific to the Campania region. Now, this is not saying that…

There’s no denying that I love Italy (I actually write this from Tuscany, on a trip that’s both research and pleasure), and if anyone can show us the power of simplicity in food, it’s the Italians. Their food is very produce driven and ingredient lists are often short, yet always based on quality. A simple sauce, a few toppings and the result is a simple, rustic cuisine that’s rich and generous. At the heart of almost all good Italian meals, you’ll find a variety of grains, so I’ve made these wholesome foods of the earth a focus in these recipes. PEARL BARLEY MINESTRONE WITH BASIL PESTO SERVES 6 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil 1 onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 leek (white part only), cut into 1.5cm pieces…

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LET’S DO BRUNCH IT’S NOT QUITE BREAKFAST, IT’S NOT QUITE LUNCH – IN FACT, IT’S BETTER THAN BOTH. WE PUT TOGETHER OUR ULTIMATE BRUNCH RECIPES FOR LAZY WEEKENDS THAT ARE BEST SPENT SHARING WITH FRIENDS. TRAVEL TUSCAN SUN Take a step back in time as we travel to Tuscany with food writer Lee Tulloch, who checks out a luxury resort in the hills of the Italian region with a kitchen garden and cooking school. DON’T MISS On August 28, delicious. on Sunday will launch within the new magazine Stellar inside The Sunday Mail, The Sunday Telegraph and The Sunday Herald Sun. INTRODUCING YOUR SUNDAY FIX Sundays just got even better with recipes from all our top contributors, simple weeknight ideas, Matt Preston’s weekly column, news, reviews and much, much more!…

NETTLE SPAGHETTI CACIO E PEPE WITH GUANCIALE SERVES 4 Uncooked nettle will sting unprotected skin, so use thick rubber gloves when handling. You will need a pasta roller. 200ml white wine 1/4 tsp dried chilli flakes 2 garlic cloves, bruised 1 tsp whole black peppercorns 120g nettles (order from greengrocers) or baby spinach leaves 360g semolina flour, plus extra to dust 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil 160g guanciale (cured pork cheek – from selected butchers) or flat pancetta, cut into thin strips 50g unsalted butter, chopped 11/2 cups (120g) finely grated pecorino To make the spaghetti, place wine, chilli, garlic, peppercorns and 1.5L (6 cups) water in a large saucepan. Season with salt. Place over medium-high heat and bring to the boil. Add 100g nettle leaves and cook…

PRAWN & AVOCADO SALAD WITH JAPANESE-STYLE DRESSING SERVES 4 1/4 cup (75g) Kewpie Mayonnaise 1 tbs tomato sauce Pinch of cayenne pepper, plus extra to serve 2 ripe avocados, each cut into 4 wedges 1/2 iceberg lettuce, cut into 4 wedges 100g cooked picked crab meat 16 cooked prawns, peeled (tails intact), deveined 1 grapefruit, segmented Micro coriander, to serve Combine Kewpie Mayonnaise, tomato sauce and cayenne in a small bowl. Divide the avocado, lettuce, crab meat, prawns and grapefruit among four plates. Drizzle with dressing and scatter with coriander and extra cayenne to serve POWER DRESSING Add a dash of authentic Japanese flavour to salads, and grilled seafood, meat and chicken with Kewpie Mayonnaise. Or turn up the heat with Kewpie Wasabi Mayonnaise – it’s perfect with sashimi! •…

“OH, I’M DESPERATE to go to Sicily,” says the blonde across the table. Do I smile and tell her I went recently and it was amazing, or will she detect my lie? Maybe it was the weight of expectation, the heights that I expected the people, food and history to reach, but after nine days there this is why I only sort of love Sicily. Sicily isn’t Italy The Italians are widely regarded as a joyous, friendly people; the Sicilians are seen as grumpy and suspicious. This probably has something to do with the fact that everybody from the Romans, Greeks and Byzantines to the Normans, Germans, Arabs and Spanish have controlled the island and taken turns to bleed it dry, grinding down the agricultural population. Even you’d be forever…

“I’VE TAKEN INSPIRATION FROM ALL OVER ITALY THIS MONTH, USING TRADITIONAL MILANESE FLAVOURS OF VEAL AND SAFFRON FOR MY TAKE ON A COTOLETTA, TO A FLAKY, GOLDEN ERBAZZONE, A SPINACH PIE FROM EMILIA-ROMAGNA.” VEAL COTOLETTA WITH SAFFRON TOMATO & FENNEL SALAD SERVES 6 500g cherry tomatoes on the vine 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to shallow-fry 1/4 cup (60ml) red wine vinegar 1/4 tsp saffron threads 1 small garlic clove, crushed 1 cup (100g) dried breadcrumbs 11/2 tsp dried Italian herbs 1/2 cup (75g) plain flour, seasoned 2 eggs, lightly beaten 6 x 250g veal cutlets 1 large fennel, shaved on a mandoline Micro radish and lemon wedges, to serve Preheat oven to 200°C. Place tomatoes on a baking paper-lined baking tray and drizzle with…

PASTA DOUGH 300g tipo ‘00’ (super-fine soft Italian flour), substitute plain flour, plus extra to dust 3 large eggs 2 tsp olive oil Place the flour in a large bowl and make a well in the centre. Beat the eggs and oil in a separate bowl. Pour into the well and use a wooden spoon to bring in the flour from around the edges. When it becomes too hard to stir, flour your hands and knead to form a firm dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for 5-10 minutes until smooth and elastic. Enclose in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes. NDUJA, TOMATO & BASIL PENNE SERVES 4 1 tbs olive oil, plus extra to drizzle 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 bunch basil,…

“REDUCING WASTE IS ALWAYS ON THE AGENDA IN MY KITCHEN, AS IS MAKING DESSERT! THESE RECIPES COMBINE THE FRUGALITY OF LA CUCINA POVERA AND THE OUTRIGHT DECADENCE OF THE MEDICI, WITH BOLD ITALIAN DESSERTS CREATED OUT OF KITCHEN CUPBOARD BASICS, LEFTOVERS AND FRUIT THAT’S PAST ITS PRIME. NOW THAT’S WHAT I CALL THE SWEET LIFE.” TIRAMISU CHEESECAKE SERVES 12 Reserve your used coffee grounds (espresso or plunger) for the base of this cake. Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. 250g chocolate ripple biscuits 2 tbs reserved coffee grounds 100g unsalted butter, melted, cooled 1 cup (250ml) espresso 145ml Marsala or fortified wine 18 sponge fingers (savoiardi) 5 titanium-strength gelatine leaves 13/4 cup (435ml) pure (thin) cream 11/4 cups (275g) caster sugar 2 tsp vanilla bean paste 750g cream cheese,…

 I AM ON IT. “On what?” you may ask. Well, the quest to find the one meal that typifies Milan on a plate. 24 hours should do it. “THIN VEAL, PERFECTLY COATED IN BREADCRUMBS AND FRIED IN NUTTY GOLDEN BUTTER: THIS STYLE OF ‘LESS IS MORE’ COOKING IS SO SATISFYING.” Such a short amount of time in the fashion capital of Italy won’t be easy, with such a selection of dishes deep-rooted in local culture such as risotto Milanese (laced with butter, saffron and usually melting bone marrow), minestrone (try the one at Refettorio Simplicitas in the via dell’Orso, which is reputed to be the city’s simplest and the best), or michetta (bulging white bread) with salumi and ham (I recommend the version at Taglio). For me, however, the star…

PHOTO OF THE MONTH #makeitdelicious Words cannot describe how incredible this stack of pancakes was –coconut pancakes with banana, creme fraiche and caramel sauce from your fabulous website. Thanks delicious.com.au. @nellieannabelle comfort food I lived in Ireland (many moons ago) and I fell in love with their simple but wholesome food. Valli’s Irish feature in the June 2016 issue (Valli’s Kitchen Diary, p 112) with its hearty dishes reminded me of just how comforting Irish food can be. What better way to spend the cooler months than by throwing a dinner party Éire style. Phoebe Phillips round of applause The July issue is the best! Love the layout, cover and the recipes are full of soul. This must be one of the best issues for 2016 and all I…

NETTLE Something that comes with the word ‘stinging’ or ‘burning’ at the front of it makes putting it in your mouth sound like a dumb idea, but we eat all sorts of stupid things if you think about it: milk that’s been transformed by bacteria and mould (hi, cheese), or rotted soy beans (hello, miso). It’s just a matter of knowing how to control it. Stinging nettle will inject you with histamines if handled without protection (tip: wear thick rubber gloves), but when cooked becomes harmless, and delicious with a bright greenness and some zing. Young shoots and small leaves are best, and will go well in place of spinach, or in soups, pesto, or pureed and stirred through risottos and pastas. BEEF RUMP One of the most versatile and…

THE LOCKOUT LAWS proved that New South Wales is a nanny state. Just as common sense regaled Sin City with small bar licenses, blanket bans for knee-jerk political pointscoring sent us hurtling back to the Stone Age. Anyway, pubs needn’t be seedy swill houses of social savagery. The reimagined Dolphin Hotel is testament to that. A huge hotel given a touch of style, substance and sophistication without losing the swagger of a local accessible to all and sundry. Restaurateur Maurice Terzini (Icebergs Dining Room and Bar) and his team have altered our perception of what constitutes a colossal haunt, with a remarkable fit-out featuring four defined spaces: a public bar, wine room, public lounge and dining room. Designer George Livissianis, known for stellar work at Apollo, Cho Cho San and…

I’VE JUST COME OFF WORKING with Nigella for two weeks on MasterChef. The resulting week of TV challenges are unintentionally an insight into how she is seen in Australia – as the domestic goddess, as the queen of decadence, as the English rose sitting under a marquee at a summer fete for 2000 guests. Yet those two weeks have left me with a somewhat different impression of the woman. The first surprise is how refreshingly down-to-earth she is with everyone. This makes her an instant favourite with the crew. She brings no army of PRs, PAs and managers but just a true weathervane of a friend, Trish, who also just happens to do her hair and make-up. Nigella is no shrinking violet when it comes to expressing her views, and…

WE HAVE SO MUCH to thank the Italians for when it comes to good food. Pizza, pasta, affogato, buratta, and, undoubtedly the best way to use lady finger biscuits, tiramisu. Italy is a food-lover’s paradise, but it’s not just the food that makes it so. It is the way the Italians think about food and eating that really sets them apart from the rest. The food is simple, yet so rich in flavour. Slaving over a ragu for four hours is completely acceptable and totally worthwhile, but then a chunk of fresh mozzarella with nothing more than olive oil, salt and pepper is, in my opinion, what dreams are made of. For Italians, eating and cooking with gusto are a true way of life. What’s more, Italians are also savvy,…

“THESE EFFORTLESS ITALIAN SALADS COMBINE THE CLEAN AND SIMPLE FLAVOURS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN WITH ALL THE NUTRITIONAL BENEFITS THEY BRING. DIVEINTO A SPRING TIME SHARED PLATTER OVER A CARAFE OF SPARKLING WATER WITH LEMON SLICES OR A GLASS OF CRISP WHITE. DELIZIOSO! ITALIAN TUNA & BEAN SALAD WITH PISTACHIO SERVES 4 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 rosemary sprigs, leaves finely chopped 2 x 400g cans cannellini beans, rinsed, drained 1 eschalot, finely chopped 2 tbs white balsamic vinegar (we used Simon Johnson) or white wine vinegar 200g each green and yellow beans (from greengrocers), blanched 2 x 125g cans tuna slices in olive oil 1/4 cup (35g) pistachios, toasted, roughly chopped 1/2 bunch mint, leaves picked Micro cress, to serve Heat…

ITALIAN FOOD IS A TRULY sensational, bottomless pit of regional recipes. They range from the robust dishes of the north, showcasing game and poultry served with creamy polenta, to the opulent offerings of central Italy, the home of the likes of Parmigiana, lasagne, ravioli and gnocchi, right down to the southern comfort of piquant food, laced with lashings of extra virgin olive oil and chilli. Over the years we have been exposed to the many marvels of Italian cuisine, and local restaurants in Australia build their reputation on how authentic the food is that they serve. But for those born with the spirit of adventure, there is nothing better than a trip back to the Bel Paese, the beautiful country, as Italians affectionately refer to Italy. This is where you…

Sicily is a unique and extraordinary tapestry – intricate, vibrant and brightly coloured in parts, shot through with exquisite strands of gold and silver; but worn bare, faded and patched up in others. Look behind the fabric holding it together and you will see a complex tangle of thousands of threads that give it its outward appearance. When I started researching Sicilian food, I thought I could unpick these threads and follow them back to their source. Then I would be able to say, “This is an Arabic recipe from the west of the island, this is Greek from the east, Spanish from the south-east” and so on, but it is not as simple as that. The tapestry is very tightly woven; it is impossible to undo, and, in any…

7am CULTURE CLUB Beat the tourists to the Trevi Fountain, then check in to CasaCau (Via in Arcione, 94), fitted out with mod kitchenettes and bright poster inlays in a 17th century building Wander to the Spanish Steps and do as Casanova, Wagner and Byron have and grab an espresso at 18th century Antico Caffe Greco (Via dei Condotti, 86) 10am BREAKFAST OF GLADIATORS Pick up some burrata and hand-cut prosciutto at Salumeria Roscioli (Via dei Giubbonari, 21), and don t forget to reach over diners with their plates of bombolloti all amatriciana for a bottle of Italy s best for later Then head east to the Colosseum (pictured) and eat breakfast alfresco 1:15pm DIY BITES Wander through the Pantheon and then on into L’Antica Salumeria (Piazza della Rotonda, 5),…

Known as Australia’s food bowl, Victoria’s fertile Goulburn Valley has been luring industrious folk to its fields since the early 1800s, when European migrants recognised its growing potential. Today, the regional hub of Shepparton and the surrounding towns continue to fly the foodie flag, with orchards, olive groves and canola fields carpeting the landscape. Among the world-class operations of olive oil producers Cobram Estate and cannery SPC Ardmona, a host of boutique operators have come to the party, establishing wineries, dairies and bakeries that are supported by a growing band of city-smart cafes and restaurants. Shepparton local John Marsden is the chef and co-owner of The Teller Collective restaurant and neighbouring cafe/pizzeria Fryers Street Food Store. “We’ve noticed a massive shift in what people eat here,” says Marsden. “When we…

I’VE FORMED QUITE an intimate relationship with food. By intimate I mean indulgent. I may wobble more than panna cotta, but even yours truly can feel sexy at times – thanks to food. Wait, did I just admit to feeling sexy? Anyway, oysters are aphrodisiacal. Chocolate kickstarts our carnal core, and cherries, well, eventually they get popped. Now, I don’t want to get all 91/2 Weeks on ya’ll, but a friend of mine was once left high and dry and succumbed to using olive oil as, ermm… Ahem. Well, I guess olive oil does have a naturally high heat point. I’m standing in front of tonnes of freshly picked olives in South Australia’s McLaren Vale when Primo Estate and Joseph olive oil owner Joe Grilli says, “It only takes two…