Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2025 i Delicious UK

I don’t think I was your typical student cook back when university freshers’ week came around for me, just a few (cough, cough) Septembers ago. While I joined others with their bottomless bags of pasta and I certainly indulged in a Findus Crispy Pancake or two (we weren’t allowed such processed treats in my family kitchen), I couldn’t be more excited to hit the streets of Cardiff to sample the city’s delights. I became obsessed with making Welsh cakes and Glamorgan sausages. I stomped and sniffed my way around the indoor market, discovering new ‘exotic’ ingredients such as salt marsh lamb breast. My appetite for learning extended far beyond the randy Victorians of my literature course. Of course, nowadays, it’s become so much easier to skill up and have access…

SEASONS’S EATINGS SWEETCORN You know how peak-season tomatoes are a completely different fruit to the watery, tasteless ones you can get in the cooler months? Sweetcorn is the same. A fresh, recently picked cob is a wonderful thing that genuinely tastes sweet. Steam, roll in butter, pepper and salt, then enjoy (or see our seasonal produce feature on p110). FIGS Sure, they’re great eaten as they come, but if you halve a fig, sprinkle with sugar and put it cut-side down in a hot pan, it will caramelise and soften further, intensifying the flavour. Pair with balsamic vinegar-dressed rocket and goat’s cheese (or decent mozzarella) and you have the best salad you can make in September. PLUMS At any other time of year they can be like rocks, offering up…

ROSIE’S NOSTALGIC MENU FOR 6 Cheat’s taramasalata Lamb, merguez and butter bean hotpot Hot coconut and blackberry sponge A BIT ABOUT ROSIE MACKEAN A food stylist and dinner party revivalist, Rosie trained as a chef before spending two years working in London kitchens. Obsessed by cookery books and TV programmes, she turned her passion into a career working on cookbooks and shows such as Nadiya’s Family Favourites. She has a popular Substack, The Dinner Party, and published her first book, Good Time Cooking (Pavilion Books £26), in 2024. Follow Rosie on Instagram @rosiemackeanpastaqueen “Like the classic smoked mackerel version, this is an easy fish pate, but it’s a bit more modern and chic. It’s a cheat’s version of the Greek dish taramasalata, made using hot smoked trout instead of smoked…

Food has never just been fuel for me because when I was younger, there wasn’t much of it. My first memories are of my father, who would get a Chinese takeaway when he’d sold a painting. The first time I tried chicken and pineapple… I couldn’t believe the taste! We still call Chinese food the ‘king’s banquet’. I love cooking, especially for lots of people. Recently I’ve been playing with my signature ‘Como’ marinade for chicken or salmon. It’s oil, lemon, lime, white wine, basil, garlic, salt and pepper – and baby mandarins. Add herbs like mint and oregano, and maybe a pinch of chilli. A meal once brought tears to my eyes. A dear friend came to the UK with his family (six children) from Somalia. They’d left their…

“Dough might just be the most important recipe in the history of human civilisation – a basic combination of flour and water, yet a masterpiece despite its simplicity. I grew up in my father’s pizza restaurants, so the sight, smell and texture of fresh dough (whether for bread or pasta) brings back a lot of childhood memories for me. The way you combine the flour, water and eggs to make pasta dough makes a difference to how it tastes and how easy it is to digest. Most manufacturers – and even some restaurants – use a machine called an extruder to make ‘fresh’ pasta. This takes the raw ingredients and forms the pasta shape in seconds under high pressure. It looks great, but the gluten isn’t developed through kneading and…

WHAT IS POACHING? Boiling versus poaching Boiling is where the ingredients are submerged in water and boiled at a fairly rapid heat (nearly 100°C). Due to the high temperature, the liquid is bubbling vigorously, turning to steam and reducing, so you need plenty of water in the pan. Poaching, on the other hand, happens at a lower temperature (75-85°C) – barely simmering – and in a lesser amount of liquid. The liquid can be something other than water too, such as wine, milk, stock or a butter emulsion. WHAT ABOUT CONFIT? Confiting is a French technique similar to poaching, where the ingredients are cooked at a similar temperature but completely submerged in fat – such as duck fat, oil or butter. 4 REASONS TO POACH 1 TO ADD FLAVOUR Ever wondered…

A BIT ABOUT SABRINA GHAYOUR British-Iranian chef and food writer Sabrina burst onto the food scene a decade ago with her first book, Persiana. She continues to spread the word about the food of Persia and the Middle East through books, supper clubs, cookery classes and TV appearances. Her new book (see p99) approaches Persian cuisine with an emphasis on ease and speed. Follow Sabrina on Instagram @sabrinaghayour “THIS MAY BE ONE OF THE BEST THINGS ever to happen to broccoli. It’s inspired by Dishoom’s broccoli salad. I’ve changed a few ingredients and added pomegranate seeds because few salads aren’t enhanced by them” “THIS IS ONE OF THOSE SUPPERS you can throw together midweek, confident that the meatballs will cook quickly in the sauce. The cream gives the spices a…

WHY BEANS ARE THE BUSINESS They’re one of the best natural sources of dietary fibre and a rich source of protein and complex carbohydrates. Growing beans is good for improving soil health and biodiversity, and reducing greenhouse gases. Plus, they’re affordable and taste great! Sausage, fennel and borlotti bean traybake Serves 3 Prep time 10 min Cook time 40 min EASY SWAPS Swap the pork sausages for a veggie or vegan alternative if you like. 2 fennel bulbs, cut into 1cm thick slices, fronds reserved 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed 600g jar borlotti beans Finely grated zest and juice 1 orange 6 pork sausages (make sure they’re gluten free and dairy free if you need them to be) 6 thyme sprigs, plus extra to serve…

The Three Horseshoes Margot Henderson’s gorgeous farmhouse conversion (pictured, far left) offers stone walls, wooden beams galore, open fireplaces and, of course, an excellent breakfast. Doubles from £220 b&b; thethree horseshoesbatcombe.co.uk Osip The Michelin-starred restaurant has recently opened a range of smart rooms (pictured, near left). Minimalist but classy, with oak flooring, locally produced furniture and tasteful fittings throughout. Doubles from £240 b&b; osiprestaurant.com…

I can’t remember exactly when the penny dropped but I think it was somewhere between the fourth and fifth course. My mouth was glued shut with a winter tomato tart – which, just seconds before, had been on a plate topped with a hedgerow of pickled elderflowers – and as my molars worked at the delicate buckwheat pastry I was forced to make borderline intimate eye contact with the chef who made it. I can’t tell you what that tart tasted like because I was too busy making sure my face expressed all the right emotions for the poor man who had slaved over it. That was the last time I decided to try a chef’s table experience, and I think it’ll remain my last. Chef’s tables just aren’t all…

At delicious. HQ, when we’re not feasting on shoot loot (all the incredible dishes cooked for these very pages!), we’re snaffling toast spread with Kerrygold flavoured butters (£3 for 150g, Tesco and Sainsbury’s). The savoury ones (especially garlic and herb) are tasty (do slather it over a fresh pizza base and whack in a hot oven), but the sweet varieties have also impressed us greatly. Maple and cinnamon or straight-up maple, in particular, are rich and gently spiced. They’re great to have on hand for spontaneous baking and pancake-making. We’ve been using them in cookies and banana cake, as well as spreading them thickly on that hot toast.…

STAR EMAIL ☆ Subject: Inspirational English From: Victoria Buob-Aldorf What a lovely, inspiring and modern cookbook l’ve discovered thanks to the July issue of delicious. featuring Emily English’s new book Live To Eat. I purchased it straightaway and couldn’t wait to start creating her nutritious contemporary dishes. As a chef, I’ve always loved trying out new recipes. Sometimes we’re like magpies pinching little ideas here and there from other like-minded foodies. Now I’m a chef manager at a secondary school educating the students in enjoying exciting, nutritious menus, and I’m sure l’ll have plenty of new dishes for them come September, thanks to Emily. Subject: Faith restored From: Barbara Rhodes I knew you could do it! What am I on about? The fantastic August issue with loads of naturally gluten-free…

Amber ales aren’t really a style of beer, even though they are some of the most popular. They fit in all the gaps between other classic UK styles, from best bitter to pale ale via brown ale and traditional Scottish styles. The distinctive flavour profile of amber beers typically has more malt flavour than hop aroma, and because they’re brewed with speciality malts to give a deeper colour, they come with more complex malt flavours. At the lighter end of the scale they’re biscuity, toasty and have bread-crust malt flavours; at the other end, towards red ales, they have dried fruit, berry and chocolate or coffee flavours. Typically, they aren’t very hoppy, although some do have a notable hop flavour, even edging towards amber IPAs. A bit of a catch-all…

TEAM TRAD The sight of pineapple rings and glacé cherries is something I invariably associate with Duran Duran, Rubik’s Cubes, shoulder pads and all the other things the 1980s is known for. There’s an undeniable nostalgia about the combo, especially when glistening in syrup on top of a sponge. And you don’t muck about with nostalgia. FOOD DIRECTOR TOM SHINGLER A SWEET STALWART The best thing about this cake is that I invariably have all the ingredients to hand. Butter, eggs and milk are the only three fresh ingredients needed; all the others happily sit in the storecupboard, patiently waiting for their time in the spotlight. It’s also an easy cake to knock together, with the sponge soaking up all that pineapple-infused syrup as it rises in the oven. HOW…

A BIT ABOUT MATTHEW RYLE Executive chef and partner of Maison François in London’s St James’s, Matthew has spent time in many top-end restaurants in the UK and further afield, including the three-Michelin-starred kitchens of Alain Ducasse. A popular finalist on MasterChef: The Professionals in 2018, he has subsequently built up a huge following on social media with his videos showcasing French staples and clever tips. His first book (see p84) highlights his great love of French cooking. Follow Matthew on social media @matthewryle “A birthday cake-shaped terrine of sliced potatoes, crisp on the outside, with a soft, buttery centre. Every time I make this, I want to stick candles in the top! It wasn’t until my first job at The Dorchester that I made it myself (and got to…

Lemony salmon with preserved lemon and honey new potatoes Serves 2 Prep time 10 min Cook time 24 min BE A BETTER COOK The dish can be cooked easily in the oven, all on one tray. Cook the potatoes at 200ºC/180ºC fan/gas 6, adding the salmon halfway through. It might need cooking for 5-10 minutes more, depending on your oven. 400g new potatoes, halved 2 tsp olive oil ½ tsp cumin seeds ½ lemon ½ tsp sumac 2 salmon fillets (about 125g each) 2 handfuls rocket to serve For the dressing 1 garlic clove, finely chopped ½ preserved lemon, seeds removed and finely chopped 1 tsp cider vinegar 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil ¼ tsp clear honey This delicious dinner is packed with delightful flavours and textures – and ready…

Damson and hazelnut crumble Serves 4 Prep time 15 min Cook time 35 min Specialist kit 25cm oval baking dish or similar BE A BETTER COOK Some damsons are sweeter than others, so the amount of sugar in the filling is best judged by tasting. Start off with 200g, taste (once they’ve collapsed) and add more if needed. There’s some sugar in the crumble topping too, so take care not to make the damsons too sweet. SCALE IT UP Damson season is fleeting, so it’s worth making up a big batch of crumble if you have a tree laden with fruit. It freezes well – freeze the fruit and topping in separate bags if you want to save space. For the filling 500g damsons, washed and stoned 1 cooking apple,…

Q You grew up in Jharkhand in eastern India. What was the food like there? A The city I lived in, Jamshedpur, was home to Tata Steel, so people came from all over India to work there. That meant the food was really cosmopolitan to cater to everyone’s tastes; you could experience dishes from all over India. Conversely, when we’d go to Punjab, where my parents were from, you would only find Punjabi food. I found it quite boring after a few days! Q There are countless subcuisines throughout India. Which is your favourite? A When I decided to become a chef, my father very smartly suggested I go to southern India, as that was the Indian food I’d experienced the least. I studied in Chennai for three years and…

ONE TIN BAKES I might argue that Nicola Lamb’s recent, brilliant book Sift is so clearly written a beginner could do very well using it, but for something simpler, yet with much genius, Bake Off winner Edd Kimber’s collection of 70 recipes from one tin is very hard to beat. As with all these books, the gold is in the author’s ability to place exceptional results within easy reach of the novice: clear instructions, recipes that forgive, few ingredients, simple processes and perfectly chosen combinations make this an essential for anyone looking to make delicious sweet delights. Why it’s an essential Whether you want to make traybakes, pies, cookies, pastries or other sweet treats, all you need is a 23cm x 33cm tin, a few ingredients, this book and sense…

A BIT ABOUT HELENA NICKLIN An award-winning drinks writer and broadcaster, consultant and presenter, Helena is also a judge for various international wine and spirit awards and founder of the HelenaSips Wine Academy. Find her on social media @HelenaSips “This herbaceous, citrussy white goes from rustic, light workhorse in France’s Loire Valley to tropical diva in New Zealand” SAUVIGNON - THE HERBACEOUS HERO If any grape can be described as producing the Marmite of wine styles, it’s sauvignon blanc: you either love it or you hate it. This herbaceous, citrussy white goes from rustic, light workhorse in France’s Loire Valley to tropical diva in New Zealand. The name sauvignon comes from the French ‘sauvage’ meaning ‘wild’; a nod to its somewhat unruly green character and the fact that it probably…

A BIT ABOUT JACK AND WILL The two young chefs first bonded when working at Dinner By Heston Blumenthal, where their shared love of making dishes from bits normally thrown away, such as leek tops, fish heads and lemon peel, created many an innovative staff meal or snack. In 2019 Jack and Will got together with hospitality entrepreneur James Robson and created Fallow, first as a pop-up and now a permanent restaurant in St James’s, London. It’s been a huge hit, making sustainable cooking exciting – even cool. It was joined in 2023 by Fowl, a ‘beak-to-feet’ chicken restaurant just around the corner. In 2024 the partners opened Roe in Canary Wharf. It follows the same nose-to-tail, root-to-tip ethos as its sister restaurants, with rare-breed meat and carefully sourced fish…

A BIT ABOUT ERIC LANLARD Born in Brittany, France, Eric began his culinary journey working as a chef for the French Navy before moving to the UK in 1989 to work with legendary chefs such as Albert and Michel Roux. In 1995, Eric opened his first cake business in south west London, which 10 years later became Cake Boy, a successful boutique patisserie and cookery school. Celebrity pastry chef Eric has had his own TV shows, such as Baking Mad with Eric Lanlard and Glamour Puds. He’s also written many great cookbooks. Follow Eric’s cake adventures on Instagram @eric_lanlard ERIC’S TIPS I ALWAYS TRY TO GET MY ‘MISE EN PLACE’ READY the day before, so it doesn’t feel so overwhelming. I like to bake the pastry, keeping it in a…

Writing for The Observer in 1999, journalist Andrew Purvis recounts telling a friend how he recently spent three hours learning how to make the perfect cup of coffee. “Mine’s white with two sugars,” the friend replied, unimpressed. Twenty-six years later, there’s a customer at my coffee shop who orders a matcha latte every day. She asks for an extra scoop of matcha powder and an extra two inches of boiling water to be whisked in the bottom of the cup. The cup should be the smaller 8oz cappuccino cup; the milk almond milk; and the almond milk should be organic. Oh, and she’d like it extra hot. The days of “white with two sugars” are long gone. Yet the wages baristas earn are lower than they were at the time…

Don’t listen to the chatter. It’s all nonsense. Yes, term has started, the evenings are shorter, and I saw advent calendars in the supermarkets too. But it’s not the end of the summer. Not yet. And certainly not in my veg patch. As far as my little plot is concerned, we might as well be in the Mediterranean. The aubergines, tomatoes, peppers, figs, chillies, sweetcorn and the like, which all need several months of sunshine to grow – something they get by July in the Med – are just ready to pick here in the UK now. The courgettes, lettuce, beans, carrots and beetroot are all blissfully lolling about in the warm, wet days and mild nights. I garden in my shirt sleeves. My lunches are green bean salads, my…

In the gentle hills of the West Country there’s a history of people coming to worship and witness, from the spiritual home of neodruids and pagans in Stonehenge to the church of hedonism that is the Glastonbury festival. Today, food lovers continue the tradition. Situated below the artsy triangle of Frome, Bath and Glastonbury, in the heart of the rich Somerset countryside, Bruton has established itself as one of the country’s epicentres for top-class British cooking. Eager to experience for myself what all the fuss was about, I hopped on the train and headed west with hope in my heart (and hunger in my stomach). SMALL PLATES, BIG FLAVOURS Arriving in town during a rainstorm, I found shelter in a small restaurant in the centre. To my joy it turned…

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