Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2024 i Delicious UK

Cosiness and comfort are key. That’s my mantra for most of winter. Except, that is, for Christmas, when I lean into the glamour. You might catch me wearing a heel. There could be the sparkle of a sequin. And you’d better believe I’ll be dressing my dinner table with bells and whistles (although this year it’ll more likely be burgundy and bows). It’s party season! And for that, I implore you to go BIG. Whether that means you’re embracing our theatrical mulled wine snowdrift pie (p68) – buttery pastry, boozy spiced citrus curd and a towering mound of fluffy meringue – or perhaps you’re simply adding a festive twinkle to your midweek meal (p12 – pigs in blankets carbonara, anyone?), we’ve jam-packed this issue with all the festive magic. We…

GETTING CRAFTY Welcome in a creative Christmas this year at one of the crafts workshops taking place in National Trust properties around the country. Learn to make wreaths, candles, baubles, lanterns and more to add a personal touch to your festive decorations. Highlights include a Christmas wreath-making workshop (£50) at Speke Hall in Liverpool with 2018 Chelsea Flower Show Gold Winners Louise and Deb, as well as a needle-felted bauble workshop (£25) at Ilam Park in Staffordshire, where you can create adorable felt designs including a mince pie, a Christmas pudding and a robin. To find the full range of classes and to book tickets, visit nationaltrust.org.uk SEASON'S EATINGS By head of food Tom Shingler BRUSSELS SPROUTS Sprouts are super versatile but our consumption of them tends to centre around…

The delicious. team's top picks SIFT BY NICOLA LAMB Chosen by head of food Tom Shingler “Great recipes and a clever layout mean you can dip into the techy science behind baking as much or as little as you like. I’m not a natural baker and don’t have a particularly sweet tooth, but I genuinely get excited to make things from Sift.” (Ebury Press £30) GOOD TIME COOKING BY ROSIE MACKEAN Chosen by editorial director Laura Rowe “A series of showstopping menus for easy entertaining, from game nights and date nights through to dinner parties that can be whipped together when you’re working from home. Mackean’s charming writing style makes you feel like you’re a guest at her party.” (Pavilion £26) DOMA BY SPASIA PANDORA DINKOVSKI Chosen by projects editor…

SIMON ROGAN – CULINARY SUPERSTAR Simon is chef and owner of three-Michelinstar L’Enclume in Cumbria, with his own farm supplying the seasonal ingredients. Alongside this world-famous restaurant-with-rooms, in the same village now sit Rogan & Co and Aulis Cartmel, and in Bowness is Henrock at Linthwaite House hotel. Simon’s reach has also expanded to the capital with Aulis London, and further afield to Malta, Hong Kong and even Thailand. Follow Simon on Instagram @rogan_simon "Call me simple but mince pies are Christmas to me – there’s nothing quite like biting into that soft, sweet pastry to get you in the festive mood. In Cartmel, we leave mince pies in every one of our 16 rooms, ready for when guests arrive for their stay with us – people love them. This…

vegan celebration. An eggless quiche?! Yes – and very tasty too. Tofu takes centre stage, creating the same set custard texture as eggs, with plenty of mushrooms, garlic, tahini and vegan cheese packing in the flavour Vegan blueberry and pecan pancakes Serves 2 Hands-on time 25 min NEXT TIME Swap the dried blueberries for dark chocolate chips or the vanilla extract for lemon oil. • 125g self-raising flour • ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda • 2 tbsp caster sugar • 150ml unsweetened soy, almond or oat milk • ½ tsp ground cinnamon • ½ tsp vanilla extract • 40g dried blueberries, chopped • 40g pecans, chopped • 1½ tbsp sunflower oil • Maple syrup, vegan yogurt, extra pecans and/or fresh blueberries to serve 1 Sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda and…

Crabby eggs en cocotte Serves 4 Hands-on time 15 min Oven time 15-18 min Specialist kit 4 ramekins or individual pudding moulds A hidden base of crabmeat, crème fraîche and spinach awaits when you break into these baked eggs. Make up the crab mixture on Christmas Eve and store it in the fridge. It’s all ready for you to finish it off (steps 3-4) in the morning – an easy win. BE A BETTER COOK Baking the eggs in ramekins set in boiled water helps them cook slowly, setting the white while keeping the yolk runny. • 200g spinach • 200g crabmeat, 50/50 mix of white and brown • 80g crème fraîche • 2 tsp dijon mustard • 1 tsp white wine vinegar • About 10g chives, finely chopped • 4…

be a better cook. “This is my fruits de mer with accompanying condiments, a little bit of luxury that’s perfect for a festive get-together with friends or family. Serve on crushed ice and some fresh, cleaned foraged seaweed (or try thewrightbrothers.co.uk) on a platter to keep your shellfish nice and chilled and for maximum wow factor. I like it with a chilled glass of Sharp’s Offshore Pilsner” BEN PALMER Cornish fruits de mer Serves 6 Hands-on time 1 hour MAKE AHEAD Prep the shellfish up to 6 hours ahead and chill. Make the sauces up to 24 hours ahead and keep chilled. KNOW-HOW Ben recommends online fishmongers such as theseathesea.net and thewrightbrothers.co.uk. • 1 (750g) live lobster, frozen for at least 2 hours before cooking • 6 crab claws • 200g live mussels, scrubbed…

SAVVY STORAGE Cheese needs to breathe a little to prevent it drying out without trapping mould-causing moisture (another reason to cut down on cling film). So re-wrap your opened cheeses in the wax paper they came in (or, failing that, in baking paper) and keep in the fridge in a container that’s not completely airtight. Stored correctly, chilled cheese should last anywhere from 1-4 weeks after opening. Cheese is best eaten at room temperature, so unless you’re cooking it, remove it from the fridge a few hours before assembling your cheeseboard (see p76). BATCH BECHAMEL Having an easy-to-throw-together macaroni cheese to hand is always a winner. You can use scraps from most cheeses to make a big batch of sauce. Hard cheeses will add more flavour while soft cheeses will…

ABOUT THE HAIRY BIKERS When they met, Dave Myers and Si King worked in TV and film. Dave was a make-up and prosthetics artist, Si a locations manager. In 2004 they made their first series for the BBC, The Hairy Bikers’ Cookbook. They went on to make more than 30 more shows and books, showcasing their much-loved blend of cookbook and travelogue. On 8 June, thousands of UK bikers rode to Dave’s hometown of Barrow-in-Furness, Cumbria, for Dave Day, to raise money for charities including the Institute of Cancer Research. Follow Si on Instagram @hairybikers "Dave and I came together over our love of food. We were already keen cooks, but having been lucky enough to travel the world, savouring some of the most wonderful culinary experiences our beautiful planet has…

WHITES The Wine Atlas Rhoditis Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Greece 11.5% Modern Greek wines have really caught on this year – here’s a refreshing one with a lemon sorbet tang, green apple and kiwi fruit. A blend of sauv blanc and a local Greek grape, it’s an excellent party white with pastry nibbles and seafood snacks. £7, Asda La Mia Strada Falanghina 2023, Benevento, Italy 13% A stylish label for an elegant Italian made near Naples from the local falanghina grape. It has a lovely white blossom aroma, cool peachiness and dry finish. Sophisticated for its price tag. £8.50, Co-op Equilibriste Chenin Blanc 2023, Vin de France 11% Relatively low alcohol, easy-going white on an attractive deal this month – what’s not to like? With a flavour of yellow apples and…

A BIT ABOUT KATE HUMBLE After growing up next to a farm in Berkshire, Kate left school to travel round Africa for a year. Back in the UK, she began working in TV and soon established herself as a presenter specialising in wildlife and science. In 2011 Kate and her husband set up working farm Humble By Nature in the Wye Valley, which featured on Channel 5’s Escape To The Farm. Her latest book, Home Made, created with recipe tester Pooch Horsburgh and photographer Andrew Montgomery, combines simple, wholesome recipes with the stories of local rural workers such as carpenters, glass blowers, potters, fishermen and farmers. katehumble.com “This is heaven in a bowl and needs no more introduction than that!” Thai-spiced fish stew Serves 4 Hands-on time 20 min, plus…

There’s a lot to see in the Czech Republic’s capital: gothic churches, baroque buildings, the famous medieval astronomical clock… These pleasures, along with a stroll over the Charles Bridge and a visit to the castle, involve quite a bit of outdoorsyness. So as well as coats, scarves and rosy cheeks, you’ll need to pack a reliable list of where to come in from the cold for warming food and drink… HUNKER-DOWN CAFÉ CULTURE For regular stops, you’ll be glad to know the city’s cafés, famous since its cultural heyday in the 19th century, are still a major part of Prague life. Café Slavia (Smetanovo nábř. 1012 /2, 110 00) scores on both the ‘café’ and ‘culture’ fronts. Opened in 1884, opposite the National Theatre, it has long attracted artists and…

1 What is the festive Belgian bread in the shape of baby Jesus? a) Baba b) Brioche à tête c) Challah d) Cougnou 2 Which of these is not usual in the warm Scandinavian drink glögg? a) Cardamom b) Star anise c) Cloves d) Cinnamon 3 What were children drinking on the first Christmas card in 1843 sent by Henry Cole? a) Hot chocolate b) Coca-Cola c) Wine d) Gin 4 Which German city holds a huge stollen festival in December? a) Dresden b) Berlin c) Frankfurt d) Cologne 5 Who wrote the Christmas Chronicles cookbook (2017)? a) Thomasina Miers b) Tom Parker-Bowles c) Nigella Lawson  d) Nigel Slater 6 In Sweden, what do children leave out for Santa Claus and why? a) Glass of glögg  b) Porridge c) Liquorice d) Mince pie 7 What’s another name for a cranberry? a) Bounceberry b) Dropberry c) Waterberry d) Vineberry 8…

THE ALTERNATIVE DINNER Taramasalata on toast p90 Beef wellington p86 Pandoro tiramisu tree p69 Figgy pud doesn’t do it for you? Turkey just not your vibe? Throw tradition out of the window and indulge in a far more decadent feast. Kick things off with toast slathered in homemade taramasalata for an easy make-ahead starter before bringing the (perfectly cooked) wellington to the table: cue applause. Despite everyone proclaiming how full they are, they’ll all find room for a tall slice of our pandoro-meets-tiramisu. BETWIXTMAS FEAST Pea and ham hock soup p52 Stuffing and sage ravioli p109 Mince pie apple crumble p13 Those listless days between Christmas and New Year – when no one seems to know what day it is – encourage non-stop grazing. Bring some stability with a three-course…

A BIT ABOUT RAVINDER BHOGAL In 2007 Ravinder made the unusual leap from journalism to a career in food and, in 2016, opened her restaurant Jikoni, in London’s Marylebone. It serves food inspired by Ravinder’s background (born in Kenya to Indian parents) and celebrates the cookery of the UK’s diverse immigrant cultures. She’s written three successful cookery books, writes for various publications and is a regular on TV cookery shows. Follow Ravinder on Instagram @cookinboots "After weeks of holiday excess and indulgence, it’s not surprising that our palates begin to feel a little jaded come New Year’s Eve. The thought of another roast dinner makes me yawn. Instead, I crave fresh, vibrant and gutsy flavours, so I’ve looked to Asia – specifically Thailand – for inspiration. This isn’t a traditional…

“Eternity,” lamented Dorothy Parker, “is a ham and two people.” Now, for me the Christmas Ham is all-important, and the leftovers from it essential; I couldn’t tire of them no matter how many days on the trot I ceremonially unwrap the ever more crinkled foil parcel to cut another slice for a sandwich or shred the salty pink meat to drop into soup or a salad. But a proper joint of gammon does call, at least on its first magisterial outing, for a tableful of people, and I can see that those celebrating a smaller Christmas might find themselves subscribing to Parker’s acerbic view. Abundance is a wonderful thing, but wastefulness is most certainly not. And this, my friends, is where the ham hock comes in. If you’re having a…

A BIT ABOUT HONEY & CO Since Sarit (left) and Itamar opened Honey & Co in London in 2012, this Middle Eastern restaurant has delighted diners with its generous cooking and baking. The Honey & Co empire now includes a deli and grill house, and the couple have published four books, the most recent being Chasing Smoke (Pavilion Books). Follow them on Instagram @honeyandco Almond drop doughnuts Makes 8 Hands-on time 20 min, plus at least 30 min chilling KNOW-HOW Doughnuts are eaten around the world at Hanukkah. Traditionally these would be sufganiyot: light, airy pillows filled with jam. There are all kinds of variations, but they must be fried. This is to celebrate the Miracle of Hanukkah, an oil lamp filled with enough oil to last a day, but which…

I spend weeks researching my Christmas cheeseboard, dreamily scrolling through the product pages of online cheesemongers and wondering whether I can get away with a board of seven cheeses (I can’t). It gives me that same childlike pleasure of circling things in the Argos catalogue. In the past I would seek out weird and wonderful cheeses, made with the most innovative methods, washed in the craziest liquids and rolled in the most interesting ingredients. I’d then bore everyone around the table senseless as I introduced each cheese in detail. While these more leftfield cheeses were a joy to discover, read about and taste, it was always the more familiar, traditional ones that got polished off first. That’s why I’m stripping things back a little this year, making my cheeseboard a…

A BIT ABOUT PHIL The head pastry chef at Harrods in London, Philip Khoury started his career at Quay, one of Australia’s most celebrated restaurants. His flair and expertise have made him a familiar face in food media, contributing to The Guardian and The Times. Phil often appears on BBC’s Saturday Kitchen and has served as a semi-final judge on Bake Off: The Professionals. His literary debut, A New Way to Bake, won this year’s Fortnum & Mason Best Debut Cookery Book award. Follow Phil on Instagram @philkhoury Pistachio, chocolate and cherry yule log Serves 8 Hands-on time 1 hour 30 min, plus cooling and chilling Oven time 1 hour 40 min Specialist kit Piping bag with 1cm round nozzle For the chantilly cream • 200g soya milk, chilled (see…

the mindful cook. ABOUT ELLY CURSHEN Cook, author and food waste campaigner, Elly made her mark with the Pear Café in Bristol, which she opened in 2006. Things really took off a bit later with her bestselling book, Fast Days And Feast Days, and two more books followed. Elly’s been on TV and radio and written food columns for newspapers and magazines. She’s known as Elly Pear on Instagram, where her Rollover Leftovers series has been a hit. @ellypear ❆ BEFORE CHRISTMAS Clear out your freezer USE IT, DON'T LOSE IT! Before the big food shopping spree starts, it’s time to dive into your freezer and see what’s lurking in there. From half-used bags of peas to that mystery container that’s been pushed to the back, chances are your freezer…

Maybe it’s the theatrics. Maybe it’s the complexity of balanced flavours in every sip. Or maybe – just maybe – it’s the alcohol. Whatever the reason, cocktails always put a smile on my face. They make an evening feel special, whether you’re out celebrating or entertaining at home, and the ritual of mixing, shaking, stirring, pouring and garnishing is something to savour. That is, unless you’re making cocktails for more than a few people. At that point, even if you’re an expert mixologist, it becomes a bit of a slog; a factory line of ice, glasses and bottles, with sticky spills all over your kitchen work surface and no time to entertain your guests or enjoy yourself. It’s why most of us opt for a few bottles of fizz when…

Rigorous research goes into a column like this. Every time I open a beer at Christmas, I rummage through all the chocolates around me to find the best ones to go with it. The trouble is, I never seem to remember exactly what works best, so every December the whole things starts again, like a glorious Groundhog Month of drinking beers and eating chocolates. It’s a bit like trying to decide my favourite Christmas movie – every year I have to watch them all again to work out which one I like best. Based on what I can remember, I’m sharing some fun beer and Christmas chocolate matches for you. If you want to find more great combos of your own, the best beers to try will be dark ones…

ABOUT CHARLOTTE A trained chef and cookery writer, Charlotte has more than 10 years’ experience in the food world. She’s written several awardwinning cookery books and is a member (former Chair) of the Guild of Food Writers and Slow Food Alliance. Charlotte received an MBE earlier this year for services to food writing and food education. Squash, cannellini bean and pesto stew Serves 4 Hands-on time 10 min Slow-cook time 4 hours BE A BETTER COOK To cook this stew in a conventional oven, fry the garlic and squash in a casserole, then add the other ingredients as in the recipe, cover and cook for 2 hours at 140°C/120°C fan/gas 1. • 3 tbsp olive oil • 4 garlic cloves, chopped • 1 medium butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into…

WHAT DO YOU THINK? Have you struggled in unfamiliar kitchens or could you cook well anywhere? Let us know on our social channels or email info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk Peace and goodwill to everyone travelling home for Christmas and cooking in their parents’ kitchen. And good luck, too. You’ll need it – unless you’ve been excused from mucking in on the cooking front. Because, whether you’re making the whole Christmas lunch or just preparing the pigs in blankets, cooking in anyone else’s kitchen is a nightmare. It’s like being thrown into the MasterChef final – if the MasterChef kitchen had no sensible equipment and Gregg Wallace, dressed as your mum, kept asking, “Are you sure the turkey doesn’t need an extra four hours?” If you’re one of those other-worldly creatures who can rustle…

One of the most famous pasta dishes gets a hit of festive cheer with the introduction of one of the best things about Christmas dinner. What’s not to like? We’ve given the full English a tinselly makeover with giant pigs in blankets, rosemary roast mushrooms, cranberry ketchup, nutmegspiked spinach, crispy sage eggs and panettone fried bread. Have it for breakfast, have it for dinner… Either way, you’re on to a winner! One jolly, white-haired man (The Colonel) meets another (Santa) in this finger-licking, bell-jingling crowd-pleaser. Serve as is for a TV snack or go the whole hog with chips and coleslaw. Bucket optional. If you need more convincing, fried chicken is a traditional Christmas option in Japan Kentucky-fried turkey tenders with cranberry hot sauce Serves 2-4 Hands-on time 35 min,…

1 TASTEFUL ACCOMPANIMENT Charming and rustic, these cotton linen napkins are hand embroidered with classic condiment bottles. They’ll certainly catch eyes (and crumbs) when it’s time for their next dinner party. £75, holly.co 2 BACK TO THE GRIND A true gourmand’s kitchen needs a good-quality pestle and mortar that will last, so look no further than Daylesford. The marble Hepworth design is elegant and sturdy – for all their spice grinding needs for years to come. £29, daylesford.com 3 SOMETHING FOR AFTERS? Bruton’s finest cheesemaker is hard to beat when it comes to premium cheddars – and this gift pack is a great introduction to Godminster’s stellar range. Bruton Beauty is creamy and smooth, Cheyney’s Fortune smoky and rich. Add a cute bottle of Graham’s 10-Year-Old Tawny and you have…

ALISON'S DECEMBER DELIGHTS What are your festive essentials? Mince pies and Christmas cake. I’ve made my Christmas cake already – it just needs icing. I’m ready to go, babes! My fruit has been soaking for a whole year in white rum and sherry, which elevates the cake to another level. Ideal night in? Sitting in front of Married At First Sight, having a Baileys, with my feet up and my electric blanket on. Are you team Heroes, Roses or Quality Street? Quality Street. Now you can order them with just your favourites, so I have orange and strawberry creams. Usually everyone leaves those and I’m in happy city. I always knew I had a novel in me. Madison, the main character, has lived inside my head for a long time.…

be a better host. People who claim hosting is easy have either never done it properly or are lying. Having hosted professionally for 30 years, even with all my insider knowledge, I find it hard work at times. One Christmas, some time ago now, I was doing a festive event at a certain famous London residence (with double digits on a black door) when I heard someone say, “Where’s the mulled wine?” The mulled wine was nowhere to be found, because I’d forgotten it. There followed a dash to a bottle shop in Westminster, then a rifle through the mantlepiece decs to retrieve a dried pomander and some cinnamon sticks – all swiftly crushed in a pair of tights – and voila! Mulled wine drama resolved. I hasten to add…

A bit of simple slicing turns this pandoro into a Christmas tree. Douse it in coffee liqueur, mascarpone cream and grated chocolate and you’ve got (dare we say it) the ultimate upgrade on tiramisu These adorable bite-size snowmen are filled with a Baileys-spiked cream – which may explain why they’re so merry. And for those not partaking, it’s easy to make some of them alcohol-free Tipsy snowman choux buns Makes 40 Hands-on time 1 hour 15 min, plus cooling and chilling Oven time 20 min Specialist kit Piping bags; 1-2cm round cutter; tweezers BE A BETTER COOK Whipped cream will continue to thicken slightly after whisking, so it’s best to go slightly under-whipped as you can whip it more. MAKE AHEAD Keep the baked choux buns (unfilled, in an airtight container)…

Want to show off your cookery skills this Christmas? Nothing exudes culinary confidence or tabletop wow-factor quite like a beef wellington. A seriously swanky piece of beef fillet gets wrapped in layers of mushrooms, pancake, pâté and pastry, then baked until golden on the outside and blushing pink within. It’s British cooking at its most refined – and deserves a round of applause when served. Wellington can, however, fill cooks with fear. Fillet comes at a cost, and encasing it in pastry means you won’t know if it’s cooked to your liking until it’s carved. Yet it’s easier to make than it sounds and, if you follow the guidance below, it’ll come out perfectly every time. GETTING THE FILLET RIGHT A great beef welly is measured by the pinkness of…

MAKE AHEAD There are five separate elements to this yule log, which can seem daunting – but don’t fret! All of them can be prepared separately up to 2 days in advance, then kept either in the fridge or in an airtight container. If you’re making the sponge in advance, fill and roll it before storing it in the fridge, where it will happily sit before being decorated (which is best done on the day). The decorated yule log will keep in the fridge, covered, for up to 2 days. Allow it to come to room temperature for 20 minutes before serving. BE A BETTER COOK When making the ganache and, most importantly, the chantilly cream, make sure the second addition of milk is very cold, as this helps to give…

the mindful cook. Stuffing and sage ravioli is a no brainer. This dinner is impressive enough to serve to guests on Boxing Day and beyond Taking inspiration from Korean bibimbap, the vegetables left over from your roast are treated in different ways to build a rainbow bowl of post-Christmas nourishment Christmas leftovers gochujang rice bowl Serves 2 Hands-on time 30 min BE A BETTER COOK To make sure the yolks in your boiled eggs are dead centre (yes, we know ours in the pic aren’t quite!), sit each raw egg on your work surface and give it a good spin before lowering it into the boiling water. DON’T WASTE IT This colourful rice bowl is customisable. You can add slices of leftover turkey, ham or stuffing, if you have them. Warm in…

Most – but not all – cocktails can be mixed in advance. Here are some things to keep in mind. Take it with a pinch of salt You’ll notice a tiny amount of salt in each of these recipes. It’s a trick I picked up from a master mixologist a few years ago that I swear by. Just like in food, salt opens up the palate to make your cocktail taste more of itself (without tasting salty). It’s a subtle yet effortless improvement – and a neat talking point. Enjoy the water feature Cocktails are shaken or served with plenty of ice not only to cool them down, but also to dilute the mixture with a little water. This tempers the harshness of the alcohol, allowing you to taste the…

It’s Christmas, no worries. This is something I’ve not so much learned since we moved from London to a village in the south of France, as truly embraced. I’ve always loved Christmas and, after a few very intense and show-offy years as a newly married person with a whole wedding list of plates and glasses that needed to be shared with the world (or at least the friends and family who’d bought them), I’ve calmed down a lot. Today, with my pathetic new-girl-at-school desire to fit in, I take the lead from my neighbours. Here hardly anyone sends Christmas cards or gives presents outside of the immediate family circle. Most of us order platters of oysters (opened) for Christmas Eve, when the main celebration takes place, and the rest of…

NEXT MONTH Sausage ragù with fennel and orange Crab lasagne Serves 6 Hands-on time 35 min Oven time 25 min BE A BETTER COOK Using fresh lasagne means a much quicker cooking time, giving the dish a fresher, lighter flavour. MAKE AHEAD The lasagne can be frozen once assembled, then cooked from frozen for 1 hour. Perfect for easy, get-ahead entertaining • Dash olive oil • 1 tbsp fennel seeds • 3 echalion (banana) shallots, finely chopped • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 100ml white wine • 100g brown crabmeat • 400g tin chopped tomatoes • 40g unsalted butter • 40g plain flour • 600ml whole milk, warmed • Finely grated zest 1 lemon, plus a squeeze of juice • 25g bunch dill, chopped • 100g white crabmeat • 4 dashes Tabasco…