Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2022 i Delicious UK

Are you a traditionalist or are you forever seeking new ideas to try? Most of us have a foot in both camps, I'd say: recipes we're tied to (in my family's case our late mum's Christmas pud and brandy butter – find the recipes at deliciousmagazine.co.uk) mixed with upstart interlopers. I love the annual hunt for a new pudding (never trifle sorry – although food ed Tom's recipe on p86 might just convert me); different cake; surprising side dish or two… And, of course, ideas for party food that don't take hours of prep or involve last-minute faff while the assembled throng are getting merry on cremant and giggling in earshot. On p94, Clare Finney looks at the reasons for that deep-seated yearning for tradition, while our food team have…

The people behind a Pan-African restaurant in Scotland and a Somerset gastropub serving Middle Eastern food are among the winners in the inaugural Be Inclusive Hospitality (BIH) Spotlight Awards. Launched in 2020 by Lorraine Copes, BIH celebrates and empowers hospitality, food and drink talent from Black, Asian and minority ethnic backgrounds. The awards’ judging panel– including chef and presenter Andi Oliver and MasterChef winner and restaurateur Shelina Permalloo – chose winners across 11 categories. See the full list of winners at bihospitality.co.uk; @beinclusivehospitality CHEF OF THE YEAR Babatunde Abifarin, founder of Farin Road, Edinburgh CARIBBEAN FOOD Food stylist and recipe developer Lara Luck, London AFRICAN FOOD Kent-based events caterer Maria Bradford of Shwen Shwen MIDDLE EASTERN FOOD Chef Ayesha Kalaji, co-owner of Queen of Cups in Glastonbury EAST AND SOUTH…

This month's star email wins a Fizz & Nibbles gift box from Dukeshill, worth £55 Online fine food producer Dukeshill is renowned for its hampers and gifts, ham cured the old-fashioned way, and for its cured meats and charcuterie. The Fizz & Nibbles gift box contains cocktail nuts, parmesan & chilli sablés, chorizo jam, pork rillettes, Stilton & almond sablés, Cornish sea salt thins and saumur French bubbly. dukeshillham.co.uk FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… Let us know your thoughts on this month's issue by emailing us at info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk*…

THE delicious.GUIDE TO CHRISTMAS SIDE DISHES (PART TWO) Miss part one of our guide to sides in last month's issue? Find recipes for Parsnip & brie dauphinois gratin Spinach, celeriac & soured cream gratin Sweet potato, taleggio & thyme gratin Fennel sage & gruyére gratin online at delicious magazine.co.uk Marmite parsnips with poppy seeds Serves 4-6 as a side Hands-on time 5 min Oven time 40 min Marmite is a brilliant ingredient to cook with – its deeply savoury flavour mellows out and becomes almost smoky once heated, making it the perfect match for sweet parsnips. The lightly charred skin of the veg turns dark, golden and almost leathery, ensuring the flesh of the parsnip remains soft and creamy, while the poppy seeds add a touch of nutty crunch. EASY…

S hall we cook something different this Christmas? It's a question posed most years in the run-up to the big day. Recipe books are pulled off the shelves, food magazines like this one are pored over, and the family WhatsApp group lights up with impassioned debate. Rarely does anything new make it onto the festive table in my family, mind you, as the traditionalists hold sway over the pioneers. There may be some experimentation during December at get-togethers with friends and extended families. From Christmas Eve onwards, though, the menu is immutable. But why are we so wedded to the traditions of the feast? PAGAN ROOTS Let's begin by turning back time – not just to childhood, but to the time when Christmas wasn't Christmas at all but a pagan…

Do you cut the nose off the gently oozing brie? Use the Stilton knife to cut the goat's cheese? Here's how to get it right – and take another step towards cheese geekery, says Patrick McGuigan Pity the poor cheese fiend at Christmas (me!) who has to watch his family butcher the-exquisite cheeses he's laid out for them. Rinds are hacked and honey is drizzled willy nilly. While the devastation may induce an occasional wince, I (almost) always keep my counsel – after all, it's the season of goodwill. But if you really want to know the dos and don'ts of the board, here are my 10 golden rules. DON'T SERVE YOUR CHRISTMAS CHEESES COLD Cold suppresses flavour, so get your cheeses to room temperature before serving. The flavour really…

be a better cook. The recipe Serves 4-6 Hands-on time 20 min Oven time 1 hour Simmering time 25 min 2kg maris piper potatoes Vegetable oil or melted goose fat, duck fat or lard to roast 3 thyme sprigs 6 garlic cloves Floury potatoes have the edge over waxy ones for roasties, as the post-simmer fluffy texture catches fat and creates crunchiness. Ideally, you're looking for a variety that won't fall to pieces too easily. Maris piper is a good all-rounder for this. 1 Peel the potatoes and cut them into even-size large chunks. Immerse the potatoes in a bowl of cold water as you prepare them to prevent browning. Rinse in a colander under cold running water until the water runs clear, to remove excess starch. You could cut…

There's a perfect beer to pair with whatever you're eating this Christmas. Snacking on pigs in blankets? Try a roa sty stout or m alty amber lager. Nibbling smoked salmon? Grab a d r y pilsner or tart gose. Pâté works with a Belg ian dubbel or sweet-a nd-sour cherry beer (try a kriek). Using leftovers in a curry or a sandwich? Have a citrussy hazy IPA. Roasting gammon? Pick a porter with its ca rameli sed malt notes. Turkey and ham pie? Go with a Belgian blonde or British bitter. Sweet stuff is covered too. Can't put down the selection box? Try an imperial stout, which is also prized with a chocolate dessert. Munching mince pies? Pour a Belgian quadrupel or a hazy double IPA. For Christmas dinner, regardless…

Filo triangles with cardamom, clementine and pistachios Serves 2 Hands-on time 20 min Oven time 8-10 min Heat the oven to 200°C fan/gas 7. Put 20g shelled pistachios on a tray in the oven to toast while it heats up (about 8 minutes). Melt 30g unsalted butter and cut 2 filo pastry sheets in half to make 4 long strips, then cut each strip into quarters to create 16 squares. Brush each with melted butter, then stack into 4 equal piles. Fold each pile in half diagonally to create 4 triangles, then put on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Brush the tops with more butter and bake for 8-10 minutes until crisp. Meanwhile, finely grate the zest of 2 clementines into a small pan. Add the crushed seeds…

BITE-SIZE BEAUTIES Miso devilled eggs (p34) Moules gratinées (p44) Rose petal jam crescents (p80) Intense dark choc truffles (p88) • Anyone who visits during the festive season will be suitably impressed with these canapés: devilled eggs made magic with miso; crunchy garlic butter mussels; Romanian biscuits fragrant with rose – and truffles from the UK's greatest chocolatier. A merry Christmas indeed! FESTIVE BAKING Rolled carrot cake (p92) Cozonac (p82) Butternut crunch pie (p114) Mince pie treacle tart (p144) • There's nothing like baking to get you in the Christmas spirit! Get the children involved with Jamie's scrummy roulade; try cozonac bread, an Ottolenghi sweet-meetssavoury squash & filo pie or our stellar mince pie spice-filled treacle tart WINNER DINNER The Galvins’ venison Wellington (p59) Heston's ultimate roast potatoes (p108) Marmite parsnips…

When did you start cooking? The first chocolate cake I made, aged seven, was a flat hard pancake, but it didn't deter me! Why do you love food? My Poppa (my mum's father), who I adored, grew tomatoes and vegetables, and we were spoilt with fresh food when we visited. Dad also loved gardening. My husband and I have continued the tradition, and in summer I'm in fruit heaven, picking raspberries, blackcurrants, gooseberries and redcurrants. Favourite family recipe? My mum's cheese scones. They win prizes at the local horticultural and cookery show! Most ambitious recipe you've made? A memorable one was for Christmas Eve: Galvin Restaurants’ cassoulet. It was epic – it took several days to find all the ingredients and build up the layers – and it was very…

voices in food. Q What are the Christmas food must-haves in your family? A I'm very traditional, so we always have cocktail sausages while waiting around in the morning, then the turkey and everything that goes with it. I still do this thing I did when my children were little, which is making decorations to hang from the tree. It makes everything smell of Christmassyness. You don't need a scented candle when you have a hanging gingerbread cookie. I also always have Quality Street – they look so pretty with all their different colours! Although they took away my favourite colour: the brown one. Q Would any roast other than turkey make it to your Christmas table? A Well, I did do pork the year before last in lockdown because I…

★ COVER RECIPE Pigs and devils in blankets Makes 8 Hands-on time 15 min Oven time 25-30 min Devils on horseback meet pigs in blankets for this ultimate mash-up of sweet and salty goodness. They're just begging to be dunked into your cranberry sauce. 4 streaky bacon rashers 8 chipolatas 8 soft pitted dried prunes, halved 4 rosemary sprigs, cut into small sprigs, woody stalks removed Handful sage leaves Cranberry sauce to serve (optional) Sheep in blankets Makes 8 Hands-on time 5 min Oven time 15 min Firm halloumi gets wrapped up in a snug bacon duvet with sweet honey and a little oregano as a nod to this morsel's Cypriot roots. 1 block (225g) halloumi 4 streaky bacon rashers Runny honey to drizzle 1 tbsp dried oregano Mermaids in…

“Pernil is a Puerto Rican slow-roasted pork dish with crispy crackling, often served at celebratory meals. It's commonly marinated in adobo mojado – a mix of garlic, oregano, extra-virgin olive oil and sour orange juice – and served with arroz con gandules (rice with pigeon peas) and tostones (twice-fried green plantain)” KESHIA SAKARAH ABOUT MITCH Acclaimed restaurateur and chef Mitch Tonks is one of the most respected voices on UK fish cookery. His first restaurant, The Seahorse in Dartmouth, continues to celebrate local seafood, as do his other Rockfish restaurants across the South West. Mitch is also an ambassador for the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC). “Roasting a whole fish always feels celebratory. A whole turbot like this one will feed four, and easily competes with a good joint of beef…

“Every time we enjoy a meal with loved ones it's a celebration” Christmas is a special time in our house, particularly since I got married last year and now have two stepsons. The focus isn't on elaborate gifts or stressing to impress people, but on spending time together as a family – eating, laughing and watching Christmas films and TV. It really is my favourite time of the year with my new family, but we didn't get off to a flying start… When I first met my stepsons, I quickly realised they weren't especially taken with my cooking. For them, my food was strange, and whatever I made in an attempt to impress them – from homemade pizzas to pies and pastas – they would barely touch. For a cook,…

Intense dark choc truffles Makes 40 truffles Hands-on time 20 min, plus cooling and chilling KNOW-HOW Stevia and erythritol are natural sweeteners used as substitutes for refined sugar. You can buy both online or from health food shops. You may be wondering why the water doesn't make the chocolate seize (solidify). A tiny bit of water will indeed cause the fat in chocolate to emulsify around it, but when you add more water, as here, the emulsion inverts and the water surrounds the fat, making it smooth. PAUL'S TIPS For more vegan options, replace the 200ml water with the same amount of any liquid that isn't dairy – strong tea of different varieties, coffee, orange juice, red wine, champagne, coconut milk or coconut water, fruit juices and purées, craft beer……

SPROUT CRISPS Christmas's most divisive vegetable probably has no place in a crisp packet – but we admit to being intrigued… CHRISTMAS TINNER Does what it says on the can: soup with turkey, stuffing balls, potatoes, sprouts and pigs in blankets. You need only supply the tears of shame. CHRISTMAS POT NOODLES A plastic tub of turkey, stuffing, trimmings and… instant noodles. Mind you, it's on the table in minutes! CHRISTMAS PUDDING CHEESE White stilton cheese with raisins, crystallised diced ginger, rum and candied orange peel rolled into a ball and packaged up to look like Christmas pudding. A pure abomination. CANDY CANE PIGS IN BLANKETS A sugar rush confection of pork chipolatas wrapped in spiced sugar-glazed smoked streaky bacon, topped with orange and maple glaze. (Er, try our PIBs…

The recipe Serves 6 (makes around 400ml) Hands-on time 30 min Oven time 40 min Simmering time 1 hour MAKE AHEAD You can make the gravy, let it cool, then keep it in the fridge for up to 24 hours or freeze for up to a month. Thoroughly defrost (if needed) before gently reheating in a saucepan. BE A BETTER COOK Adding aromatic herbs right at the end is a classic chef's trick to add a ‘top note’ of fresh flavour to sauces, which contrasts wonderfully with the deeper, slowly cooked roasted taste. KNOW-HOW Fresh yeast can be a bit elusive to source – some independent bakeries and bakeries in larger supermarkets may sell you some if you ask. Your best bet is to head to a Polish deli, where…

drinks. FRED'S NEW YEAR'S EVE PLANS “I'll be enjoying the evening with Gino D'Acampo and a group of friends. There'll be wonderul Italian canapeés and, of course, great things to drink: excellent G'Vine gin, which is made in Cognac from grape not grain; smooth barolo from Piedmont and, for the celebration hour, cremant de bourgogne. Laughs and good times!” Hospitality is about making the world a better place. When people come through the door you smile at them first; you charm them first. If we all did that in whatever we do, we wouldn't be in as much trouble as we are at the moment. I don't know if I was born with charm, but it was always easy for me to get on with people. I was never shy.…

TRAVEL CLUB delicious. TRAVEL OFFER ALL TRIPS ARE ATOL PROTECTED* AND FINANCIALLY BONDED ENJOY A HANDS-ON COOKERY EXPERIENCE SOUTH AFRICA On this 11-day culinary tour, you'll enjoy the best food and drink the Rainbow Nation has to offer. In Cape Town's historic Bo-Kaap district, you'll take part in a hands-on Cape Malay cooking demo. In Franschhoek, you'll head to the home of a TV chef for a braai barbecue session, and at Vadas Smokehouse & Bakery you'll see where the produce comes from at a farm-to-table experience. PRICE From £3,895pp DATES Departures to March 2023 WHAT'S INCLUDED Return flights; five-star accommodation and meals; cookery demos with chefs My nie Steffens and Zainie Misbach; escorted tours of Cape Town, Table Mountain and Kirstenbosch Gardens SAVOUR THE GRAPE HARVEST IN PORTUGAL PORTO AND THE…

Mince pie treacle tart Serves 12-16 Hands-on time 25 min, plus resting and cooling Oven time 1 hour 5 min Specialist kit Deep 23cm fluted tart tin with a loose bottom MAKE AHEAD Bake the tart in advance, then wrap and freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost, unwrap, then warm gently in the oven before serving. TIME-SAVER Shop-bought pastry will also work, although it won't have the nutty flavour of the spelt. Use a block of all-butter shortcrust pastry and start from step 2. DON'T WASTE IT The baking paper you use when blind baking the pastry can be used again and again – keep it in a drawer for the next time you make a tart. For the pastry 130g slightly salted butter, chilled 120g plain flour, plus…

STAR EMAIL Subject: The joy of cake From: Jennie Gardner Reading ‘Cake + love = joy’ in the October issue has inspired me. I've earmarked the brownie recipe [p75] to make for my mum and sister to say thank you for looking after my dog while I was away. Although this is only a tiny thing compared to the volunteers baking birthday cakes for children who'd otherwise not have one, I still feel it's important. Cake allows us to speak from the heart, spreading joy in the process and making the world a sweeter place. Thank you for reminding me of this. Subject: Pasta water magic From: David Driver I must congratulate Tom Shingler on his pasta water tips [Oct, p122] as it's taken my pasta recipes to another level.…

delicious. world. Follow us on social @deliciousmag @alanbritton Christmas pudding, a combination of my mother's recipe and Marguerite Patten's. Rich, dark and full of fruit. Currently maturing in a cupboard @BreadAhead Shopping @BoroughMarket @JaneCheadle Shellfish dinner on Christmas Eve! Oysters, langoustine, crab, a big pot of moules mariniere and king prawns with loads of garlic butter. All from my local fishmonger @OOTBFish – a family tradition! @gregsteevo Has to be warm @GingerBakers luxury mince pies with lots of rum-infused whipped cream… @ieatmywages Pigs in blankets for the roast dinner. Then a cheeseboard to nibble in the evening @FilipEvans Too many to list, but headed to Sweden this Christmas and looking forward to enjoying lots of herring @margdier A festive sandwich on Boxing Day, complete with cold gravy – but no…

Spinach, smoked trout and pink peppercorn roulade Who doesn't love a devilled egg? This Japanese-inspired version of the retro classic amps up the umami Vol-au-vents deserve their classic status they're simple to make, endlessly customisable and, with the right filling, utterly scrumptious Harissa roast chicken vol-au-vents with crispy chicken skin Makes 20 Hands-on time 1 hour Oven time 25-32 min Specialist kit 5cm and 3cm round cutters Ditch the tired, grey chicken and mushroom filling for our creamy, hot and herby harissa-spiked version. MAKE AHEAD Both the cooked pastry cases and filling can be prepared to the end of step 4 up to 2 days in advance, so all you have to do on the day is put them together. Store the pastry cases and crispy chicken skin in airtight…

This time last year, we'd just moved into a crumbling old house in a village in southwest France. It didn't have any central heating or, in fact, any heating other than fireplaces in the study and one bedroom, both of which smoked alarmingly when the wind blew in a certain direction. The house is right on a harbour (charmingly appointed with incredible views, the estate agent said), so the winds blow in a certain direction with breezy regularity. With incredible foresight, we removed all the old roof tiles just as the evening temperatures dipped to -5°C. Our friend Vanessa was coming to stay with us for Christmas. I messaged her: bring sweaters and warm slippers. No roof, no heating, absolutely freezing. Undeterred, she came. We put an electric blanket on…

Beef bourguignon, the classic French beef stew with red wine, is a famous dish, but adding a pastry top makes it extra special and substantial If you have a pie funnel, sit it in the centre of the meat before adding the pastry – this allows the steam to release, preventing the crust from going soggy. It's old-fashioned but useful! As not everyone has a pie funnel, I've suggested simply making a cross in the centre of the pastry here instead The recipe Serves 6 Hands-on time 30 min, plus chilling Oven time 3 hours 5-10 min Specialist kit 2 litre baking dish MAKE AHEAD The pie can be made up to 5 hours in advance and kept in the fridge before baking. The pie also freezes well uncooked –…

In Romania, our various ethnic culinary traditions co-exist in a vast, edible Fresco of buttery cookies, rich sweet breads and layered cakes. Nuts, spices and dried fruit are sacred ingredients, and cakes are often layered with jam, walnuts and poppy seeds rather than buttercream. Christmas falls on different days throughout the country, depending on each community's religious calendar. Some families celebrate twice or even three times, so the party starts at the beginning of December and ends in mid-January. An endearing tradition is on 6 December, when children wake up to see if St Nicholas has left something in their shoes; fruit and sweets for the obedient ones or a wooden stick for the others. Carol singers on Christmas Eve are welcomed with walnuts and apples, and the days up…

GOOSE For centuries it was the most traditional of birds. In the 13th century, the pubs had goose clubs for customers to pay a subscription to, saving all year for the chance to choose from the geese brought from Nottingham to be sold at Spitalfields market in London. TURKEYS were brought to Europe from South America by the Spanish in the 16th century. By the 1700s, they were appearing regularly on farmers’ tables – most often after the harvest, the turkeys fattened on barley and oats. December was perfect timing; but it wasn't until Dickens’ Scrooge put a turkey on the Cratchits’ table that it became synonymous with Christmas, usurping the goose. Few people would have had ovens big enough for it, though – if they'd had ovens at all…

We've all been there… After an early start, you sit down for a quick rest and a glass of wine, and before you know it the parsnips are burnt, the sprouts are mushy, the turkey's dry and the roast potatoes are nowhere near crisp enough. Why does Christmas dinner evoke such panic when it's really only a big roast? It's usually down to overambition and not being able to think quickly at the last minute when things do go wrong. Hopefully these tips will stop you biting off more than you can chew – and calm those last-minute jitters. TOM SHINGLER, FOOD EDITOR Don't go overboard! Ever since Scrooge felt repentantly spenny and stumped up the cash for a turkey in A Christmas Carol, Christmas dinner has been associated with…

be a better cook. YOTAM AND THE OTK Restaurateur and author Yotam Ottolenghi is a household name. Together with Head of the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen (OTK) Noor Murad (left) and other food creatives, he continues to inspire cooks worldwide through the recipes developed in the OTK. Butternut crunch pie with pickled chillies Serves 6 Hands-on time 1 hour 5-10 min Oven time 1 hour 45 min Specialist kit 23cm springform cake tin MAKE AHEAD Assemble the pie up to the end of step 6 (but don't bake), then wrap and freeze for up to 1 month. Cook from frozen, adding an extra 10 minutes to the cooking time. 10 sheets (250g pack) good-quality filo pastry 100g unsalted butter, melted 30g caster sugar 2 tsp icing sugar For the filling 4…

Best festive party FIZZ Arestel Cava Brut NV, Catalonia, Spain 11.5% Snappy and dry, with a crisp green apple note and light toastiness. Decent cava and, at this eye-catching price, a perfect refreshing crowdpleaser. Made in the traditional Champagne method, with 9-10 months ageing in the bottle. £5.49, Lidl Tesco Sweet Asti 2021, Piedmont, Italy 7% Here's a honeyed sparkler to pair with fruit desserts, cream cakes and meringues (it's a little light for Christmas pud). Frothy, and it actually tastes of green grapes – sugared and chilled. Very low in alcohol too. £5.75 Crémant du Jura 2019, France 12% Clementines, lemons and a note of tea biscuit mingle in this appealing crémant from eastern France. It's dry, and made from 100% chardonnay grapes using the Champagne method. Consistently the…

simple. Fiery, spreadable sausage works wonderfully alongside the gooey cheese sauce in our spicy mac ‘n’ cheese, while crisp, fragrant basil breadcrumbs and a drizzle of honey tick all the right boxes Chicken, garlic and red pepper stew Serves 4 Hands-on time 25 min Simmering time 20-25 min This flavoursome chicken dish is inspired by bourride – a French stew usually made with seafood that has aioli whisked into the sauce to give it a silky texture and garlicky flavour. Make sure there's plenty of bread to mop it all up. 2 tbsp vegetable oil 8 free-range skin-on chicken thighs 2 onions, sliced 1 red chilli, deseeded and sliced 2 red peppers, diced 400ml chicken stock Finely grated zest ½ orange Large pinch saffron (optional) 2 large garlic cloves 150g…

Citrus-studded panettone and a full-bodied cheese? Trust us, it's a match made in heaven. Giving the bread the french toast treatment ensures the sugars don't burn when it's in the pan, too A versatile stew that makes the most of whatever you have left to work with. The real stars of the show are the incredible bread sauce dumplings – soft, fluffy and full of comforting creaminess FOR LEFTOVER ROASTIES Roast potato breakfast hash Serves 2 Hands-on time 25 min A speedy dish for bleary-eyed late mornings after a few too many the night before. EASY SWAPS No miso paste? The recipe will still work well without it, but a spoonful of chopped anchovies or black garlic paste are great alternatives. SCALE IT UP This recipe is easily doubled, but…

HOW TO WIN A PRIZE Complete the crossword puzzle correctly, take a picture and email it to info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk by the end of the month for a chance to win* Across Down ANSWERS to OCTOBER CROSSWORD NO. 45: ACROSS 1 Scallops 7 Agave 8 Mango 9 Canapé 10 Yuzu 12 Eggy 14 Jollof 17 Norma 18 Elder 19 Fishcake DOWN 1 Spain 2 Aleppo 3 Lime 4 Ponzu 5 Lap cheong 6 Roquefort 11 Solera 13 Garni 15 Ladle 16 Mash…