Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2021 i Delicious UK

PORTRAIT: PAUL MITCHELL If ever there was a time to do some comfort cooking, this is it. Honestly, everything feels a little relentless at the moment, doesn’t it? If I could send each one of you a warm cinnamon bun, fresh from my kitchen, I’d do that right now. Sadly I can’t do that, but this comfort-packed issue is as close as I can get. First of all, there IS light at the end of the pandemic tunnel so let’s keep on looking towards that glow, go out for brisk walks to spark a rush of endorphins and put colour in our cheeks – and remember to take proper lunch breaks (I need a bowl of soul soup right now; see p92). Apart from that, February is my designated month…

Our star email wins a box each of premium red and white Portuguese wine worth over £50, brought to you by experts from The Wine Show (Amazon Prime). These wines stay fresher for longer thanks to their box format, which produces less CO2 than glass bottles. Visit thewineshow.com/boxed-wine See what other delicious.fans are talking about at facebook.com/deliciousmagazineuk Follow us at twitter. com/deliciousmag Follow us at instagram. com/deliciousmag Follow us on pinterest.co.uk/deliciousmaguk…

• 1 part suet or lard • 2 parts a combo of bird seed mix, chopped nuts, dried fruit (chopped if large), pinhead oatmeal, finely chopped bacon rind, small amounts of grated cheese Gently heat the fat over a medium-low heat (just enough to melt it). Stir in the food mixture and pour into a mould – small plastic tubs or muffin tins are about the right size. Leave to set, then dip the container very briefly in warm water to make it easier to unmould. Either put the fat balls on the bird table or use a darning needle to thread a loop of twine through the centre and hang them up.…

PHOTOGRAPHS: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE A stack of freshly made, fluffy pancakes is hard to beat, on Shrove Tuesday (Tuesday 16 February this year) or any time, but I’ve taken it up a notch with these cocoa-infused pancakes drizzled with a hot Nutella chocolate sauce. Should you choose, go all out and add a slug of booze for an adults-only treat.SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR Double-chocolate pancake stack SERVES 4-6 (MAKES AROUND 14). HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, PLUS RESTING MAKE AHEAD The batter will sit in the fridge, covered, for several hours. Stir well before using. Freeze the cooked pancakes, well wrapped, for up to a month. Heat through in a toaster, pan or microwave when you’re ready. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS For a boozy kick,…

Breaded prosciutto-wrapped pork chops SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME ABOUT 1½ HOURS, OVEN TIME 10 MIN, PLUS CHILLING AND RESTING MAKE AHEAD Make to the end of step 3 up to 2 days ahead, then keep covered and chilled until ready to cook. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS If you like, ask your butcher to French trim the chops for you. Trimming off the rind and any excess fat looks neater and can help the chops cook evenly. • 6 large outdoor-reared pork chops on the bone (about 200g each; see tips) • 6 fresh sage sprigs, plus extra leaves • 6 slices prosciutto • 40g plain flour to dust • 2 medium free-range eggs • 150ml whole milk • 300g stale white sourdough breadcrumbs • Large handful finely chopped flatleaf parsley •…

Cacio e pepe SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN “ Some Italian dishes are so well known we don’t need a translation in the recipe title, and in recent years, cacio e pepe pasta (cheese and pepper, of course) has entered that category. Making it at home requires organisation and speed, but once everything is set up and you’re ready to go, it really is Italian fast food. This recipe comes from Andrea di Bello, who was born and raised in Rome. His grandmother (who, he says, makes the best cacio e pepe he’s ever tasted) has passed on her hints and tips for success: the pasta has to be cooked in far less water than you might usually use (about 500ml of water for every 100g of pasta), because…

James is a Cornwall-based photographer, recipe developer and eco-living expert. He’s written several books and been a regular on TV in shows such as The Hungry Sailors with his dad Dick and It’s Not Easy Being Green. His latest book, The Artisan Kitchen, is out now – see over the page. THE SCIENCE OF FERMENTING Sour fermented pickles are tangy condiments fizzing with gut-friendly bacteria. Unlike pickles that rely on vinegar for preservation, sour pickles extend their shelf life and gain their tangy flavours through lacto-fermentation. In a natural process, beneficial bacteria munch away at the glucose (sugar) in vegetables and fruit, drawing on their stored energy by converting the molecules into lactic acid. This partial breakdown of plant sugars, and the acidic by-products, creates a host of palatable flavours…

MAKES 700ML/SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN Heat a 300ml carton double cream and 300ml whole milk with 1 tsp vanilla extract or paste and let it simmer gently for a few minutes to infuse. Meanwhile, beat 6 medium egg yolks (see Use It Up tip) and 3 tbsp golden caster sugar in a heatproof bowl until pale and thick. Slowly pour the hot cream/milk into the egg mixture and whisk together quickly to combine. Strain the custard into a clean, heavy-based pan and put over a low heat. Stir the custard constantly with a wooden spoon as it thickens – keep the heat gentle and the custard moving or it may curdle. The custard should be ready after about 8 minutes, and be thick enough to coat the back…

A FEW WORDS FROM LARA “I’ve always loved writing. My parents encouraged me to keep a diary when I was younger. I used to read tons of books, too, and I loved to find random new words and use them wherever I could, even if they didn’t quite fit! My grandma talks a lot about her history and what food meant to her and her family, so as soon as I saw the theme for the competition (Food and Heroes), I knew I had to enter. A couple of years ago I spent a weekend writing down Mama’s life story. We’re close: I used to go to her house every day after school and she’d cook… I’d never not be full when I left. I read my finished piece to…

ACTION PLAN FOR FEBRUARY DO SOME THERAPEUTIC COOKING Swap your keyboard for a chopping board and try a kitchen challenge. The rhythmical chop, chop, chop is wonderfully soothing – it stills your mind, forces you to slow down and shifts your focus away from work. 1 BOOST YOUR GUT HEALTH Shredding cabbage is immensely satisfying, so we recommend a session of repetitive slicing. Use the results to whip up a batch of gut-friendly fermented food such as kimchi or sauerkraut. Add salt and massage the shredded cabbage to break down the fibres before letting it sit overnight. You can finish potting your kraut during your next lunch break. See our step-by-step guide for making golden sauerkraut on p64. 2 SCENT TO LIFT THE SPIRITS It’s citrus season – an…

1 SHE KNEW HOW TO PLAN AHEAD Then Rationing during and after World War II made planning each meal a necessity – if food ran out, you went hungry. There was no relying on convenience foods either, as these only became an option with the mass arrival of fridges, freezers and microwaves. In 1956, only 8 per cent of households owned a fridge; in 1970, 3 per cent had a freezer; and as late as 1989, only 41 per cent had a microwave. Now According to a study by Cancer Research UK, adults consume 79 million ready meals each week. Though healthier varities are now available, many are much higher in calories, saturated fat and salt than anything you’d cook yourself – and, of course, many still come packaged…

RECIPE: SOPHIE AUSTEN›SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: NASSIMA ROTHACKER. FOOD STYLING: KATY M C CLELLAND. STYLING: LUIS PERAL FOR NON-FASTING DAYS “Cut 1 medium skinless chicken breast into strips, stir-fry with chopped garlic in 1 tsp vegetable oil and serve with the vegetables and steamed basmati rice (50g raw weight) to bump things up to 607kcals”SAYS OUR RESIDENT NUTRITIONIST FIONA HUNTER VEGAN RECIPE Roast curried cauliflower, chickpeas and peppers with coriander & lemon drizzle SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 22-25 MIN • 125g cauliflower florets, plus the smaller outer leaves • 1 small red onion, cut into wedges • 1 green pepper, sliced • Light cooking oil spray • Handful fresh coriander, chopped • Grated zest and juice ½ lemon • 1 tsp medium curry powder (check it’s vegan if…

STAR EMAIL FROM: MECHELLE CLARK Karen’s editor’s letter last month included a call to share our experiences from the past year. Like many, I’ve had quite a time... Due to Covid, I had to close my business (Melt, in Aberdeen). It started five years ago as a toastie shop and events caterer, and ended up as a full restaurant and take-out. We had many successes, including our toasties being chosen by The Telegraph as one of the UK’s best; First Minister Nicola Sturgeon making a toastie; a visit from actor Donald Sutherland and dinner with newsreader Jon Snow. Since closing the business, life has been hard, but I’m training to be a pastry chef at college now and hoping to open a bakery at the end of the year.…

WILL HARDY’S WINTER WONDERLAND CAKE Jen says: “A close second – I could dive right in. I love the attention to detail with the piping.” NIGEL SPINK’S CHEESE, CRANBERRY & THYME FONDUE STAR Jen says: “You really captured the ooze, and I love the twinkly lights and decorations.” TOM MILLER’S MANGO WHITE VELVET CAKE Jen says: “Tom’s cake looks absolutely brilliant – so squidgy I could almost lick the photograph.” SUE ROSS’S THE BEST BAKED MEATBALLS Jen says: “You made Donal’s meatballs look so comforting. I relived eating that recipe from your image.”…

My grandmother, Vanda Gréville, was a force to be reckoned with. A film actress in the 1930s, she was married to a French film director, Edmond Gréville, and lived on the Champs Elysées in Paris until the war. She was a legendary hostess and cook and entertained extravagantly. I remember sitting in her kitchen while she prepared delicious food: chestnut and brandy mont blancs, rum babas with alcohol-steeped fruit, creamy blanquette de veau and all the other dishes she’d discovered in France and made her own. My sister and I would help her chop herbs and roll marzipan chocolates as she recounted stories of riding with maharajahs in the Bois de Boulogne or filming scenes where she fell from the Eiffel Tower in Abel Gance’s 1931 disaster movie, La Fin…

“This month, my tested, curated picks include elegant serving ware, ethical buys and gift ideas for Valentine’s Day”EDITOR KAREN BARNES Stylish choices for your home and table + general good stuff you need to know about right now Lasting beauty Take a virtual spin around the Kagu Interiors online shop – so many temptingly beautiful things. I’m a convert to these shopping baskets made from coiled natural fibres and goat leather: clearly made to last (not to mention they look fabulous). Small shopping basket, £80, kagu-interiors.co.uk Valentine’s gift with a difference It’s not often you buy cookies that taste as if you’ve made them yourself. These do. Crisp on the edges and just-right chewy in the middle, the flavour is butter-rich, chocolatey and dangerously moreish. They come beautifully packaged and,…

Pissaladière SERVES 4 WITH LEFTOVERS. HANDS-ON TIME ABOUT 1 HOUR, OVEN TIME 40 MIN, PLUS COOLING “This is a masterful balance of flavours and textures: the natural sweetness of the onions (which take a while to cook, I know), the saltiness of the anchovies and olives and the buttery flaky pastry work in complete harmony. Pissaladière is sometimes made on a pizza-style base but I prefer this version.” MAKE AHEAD Make the pastry up to a day ahead, wrap and refrigerate, then unwrap and roll to cook. Caramelise the onions up to 2 days ahead, keep covered and chilled until needed. JULIA’S TIPS If you’re short of time, shop-bought puff pastry works well for the base too. Be sure to buy the best anchovies you can find – you’ll taste…

Mashed avocado and poached egg on toast with curried butter SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN Chill the eggs to help the whites stay together as you poach them. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS • 4 thick slices sourdough or dark rye bread • 2 ripe avocados • 2 tbsp lemon juice • 1 tbsp olive oil • Good splash white wine vinegar • 4 medium or large free-range eggs (see tips) • 1 tsp mild curry powder • 4 tbsp butter • Mustard cress or coriander leaves to serve 1 Toast the bread slices in a griddle pan or toaster. Using a spoon, scoop the avocado flesh out of the skins into a bowl. Add the lemon juice and olive oil and coarsely mash with a fork. Season with salt and…

Smoked ham, cheese and parsley sauce toasts SERVES 6 AS A SNACK. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, PLUS GRILLING MAKE AHEAD Cool the sauce, then cover and chill up to a day ahead. GILL’S TIP You don’t have to use smoked ham, but it does go particularly well with the rich, mature cheddar. • 30g unsalted butter • 30g plain flour • 225ml whole milk • 50g mature cheddar, grated, plus extra for grilling • 2 tsp dijon mustard • Small bunch fresh chives, finely chopped • Small bunch fresh parsley, leaves picked and chopped • 6 thick slices good-quality bread, lightly buttered on both sides • 6 large slices smoked ham (see tip) 1 Put the butter in a medium saucepan set over a medium heat. When it’s bubbling away,…

• As an alternative to using fermentation weights, ensure the top layer of cabbage is covered with a small disc of baking paper that you push down underneath the brine. • To create an even more colourful kraut, add some peeled, thinly sliced or grated beetroot, which will stain the whole ferment purple (or yellow if you use golden beetroot). It’ll also provide an earthy, grounding note to the kraut. Aim to have 25 per cent beetroot in the mix – you’ll need about 225g for the 900g of cabbage in this recipe.…

RECIPE: DEBBIE MAJOR. PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN›SMITH. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE The recipe SERVES 10-12. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN, PLUS COOLING MAKE AHEAD Store any leftover cake in an airtight tin for up to 3 days. FOOD TEAM’S TIP To give your sponge a vibrant pink colour, use a paste or gel colouring. Not all liquid food colourings will give you a good end result. • 200g butter, softened, plus extra to grease • 200g golden caster sugar • 50g ground almonds • 3 large free-range eggs, beaten • 175g self-raising flour • ½ tsp baking powder • 2 tbsp milk • ¼ tsp almond extract • Pink food colouring (see tip) • ¼ tsp rose extract or raspberry flavouring (optional) TO ASSEMBLE •…

WORDS: LYNDA SEARBY. PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD FAULKS A good pancetta (the Italian version of streaky bacon) is all about the fat: silky, buttery fat that renders quickly in the pan. Understanding this – and seeking out the fat-prone, free-range pigs that provide meat with the right qualities – has helped West Dorset charcuterie maker Capreolus produce a smoked pancetta worthy of The Great Taste Awards’ Golden Fork, an accolade bestowed on the best producer in a region. “We only ever buy whole, big pigs for our pancetta,” explains David Richards, who runs Capreolus with his wife, Karen. “That way we can see they have a nice big belly, which is where all the flavour is. Bellies from smaller pigs are too thin to make good pancetta, and have to be used…

Coconut pork curry with crispy lime crumbs SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN • 3 tbsp vegetable oil • 2 red onions, cut into wedges • 2 tbsp medium curry powder • 400ml tin light coconut milk • 350ml chicken stock • 2 slices sourdough bread, whizzed to rough crumbs • Finely grated zest and juice 2 limes • 4 outdoor-reared pork loin steaks • 4 tbsp soy sauce • 3 tbsp sesame oil • 4 pak choi, quartered • Steamed rice to serve 1 Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a medium pan and fry the onions until softening (about 6-8 minutes). Add the curry powder and cook for 2 minutes, then stir in the coconut milk and stock. Leave on a low heat to simmer while you…

THE ALL-IN-ONE-MEAL Goulash soup SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 60-75 MIN MAKE AHEAD Cool the soup completely, then freeze in portions in sealed bags or containers for up to 3 months. • Oil for frying • 500g organic beef shin or stewing steak, cut into small chunks • 1 onion, chopped • 1 large carrot, chopped • 2 celery sticks, chopped • 1 green pepper, chopped • 2 medium-large potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks • 2 garlic cloves, sliced • ½ bunch fresh flatleaf parsley, stalks chopped, leaves reserved • 1 tsp caraway seeds • 1 tbsp sweet paprika, plus extra to serve • 1 tbsp tomato purée • 1 tsp dried marjoram or oregano • 400g tin chopped tomatoes • 1.5 litres beef stock •…

> ADDING BICARB WHEN (OVER)COOKING VEG Broccoli and cabbage were often cooked until they were soggy and, because that meant they lost colour, Grandma added bicarbonate of soda to the cooking water, thus destroying vitamin C in two easy steps. > GOING OVERBOARD WITH THE SALT It’s always been a shortcut to enhance plain cooking, but Grandma may have been a little over-enthusiastic. We now know too much salt causes high blood pressure, which affects 28 per cent of UK adults, and increases the risk of stroke. Average salt intakes are 8.4g a day, but we shouldn’t have more than 6g. > USING LARD ALL THE TIME Just 1 tbsp contains 30 per cent of the daily maximum saturated fat we should have. High intakes can cause high blood cholesterol,…

HOT ON THE SHELVES VALENTINE’S CHEAT Coq au vin is a warming winter classic (see p12). Making it for fewer people isn’t impossible, but this new Charlie Bigham’s version means you don’t have to. It combines a good amount of tender chicken, onions, mushrooms and pancetta in a slow-cooked red wine sauce with a side of creamy mash. Charlie Bighams Coq au Vin for two, £7.75, Waitrose FLAVOUR-BOMB ALERT You may have seen Jamie and Nigella raving about ’nduja (a sausage paste from Calabria in Italy), but if you’ve ever tried it you know it’s SPICY. The handy sachets of this cook’s version have a more user-friendly heat – though they still pack a punch – and go well with anything where you might add chorizo. Try it on pizza…

STILTON AND PEPPER BISCUITS STILTON From broccoli and stilton soup, p96 Put 100g unsalted, cubed butter in a food processor with 100g self-raising flour and whizz until it forms breadcrumbs. Add 100g crumbled stilton and pulse again briefly until the mixture comes together. Wrap well and chill for 30 minutes. Cut into 20 pieces, roll each into a ball, then put on a baking sheet lined with compostable baking paper, pressing gently to flatten. Grind over some pepper and bake at 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4 for 10 minutes until just firm. PHOTOGRAPHS: KATE WHITAKER, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES WINTER STILTON SALAD Crumble 50g stilton into a mixing bowl. Mix in 3 tbsp crème fraîche to loosen, then add 3 tbsp olive oil and a little water, if needed, to make a thick dressing.…

At the end of last year I heard Jacob Rees-Mogg, Conservative MP for North East Somerset, on the radio criticising Unicef’s decision to give £25,000 to provide breakfasts for children in south London over the holidays – the United Nations agency, he said, should be ashamed of itself “when it is meant to be looking after people in the poorest, the most deprived countries in the world”. After an unusually dispiriting afternoon working at my local food bank – telling mothers who’d queued with pushchairs in the rain that their families, some of them eight-strong, could only have two tins of tuna between them – I’m afraid my reaction was not fit for Jacob’s delicate ears. Britain may not be experiencing the famine or civil war that the Leader of…

We’re seriously impressed by this beautifully decorated ham hock, sausage and cider raised pie by @paulinescholey (search for it at deliciousmagazine. co.uk) @food_for_a_ better_you put Donna Hay’s pork and fennel meatballs with wholewheat pasta, parmesan and lemon [Jan, p111] to the test Many of you marked the start of the year with great looking food Karen made the January cover recipe [Jan, p32] for her first breakfast of 2021. “It was a perfect start with freshly squeezed satsuma juice and a good coffee.” Pecan and cinnamon monkey bread [Jan, p70] was a hit for@cakesnearandfar. “So tasty and easier than I thought it was going to be!”…

Cook any recipe from our February issue and share it with us for a chance to win a night’s stay for two at the The Cadogan, A Belmond Hotel in Chelsea, London. We all need something to look forward to this year and this would be quite the tonic. The Cadogan has a stylish bar and terrace, well stocked library and even a private garden. The winner and guest will enjoy a night in a junior suite with breakfast and be treated to a three-course dinner with wine in the hotel’s restaurant, Adam Handling Chelsea, which showcases Adam’s modern take on classic British cuisine using seasonal ingredients. For more info visit belmond.com/ belmondcadogan-hotel and adamhandlingchelsea.co.uk FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… Snap your dish and share it with us by 28 February…

Scrolling through the messages on the Facebook group for my local park a few days ago, I noticed – among the photographs of sunsets over the church spire, entreaties about lost cats and requests for Zoom yoga teachers – a thread that had garnered more than 80 replies before most of us had gulped down our first coffee. The picture was of a sign, illustrated with mallard ducks, attached to the railings encircling the ponds. It read: “It’s okay to feed us bread. Everyone has stopped feeding us because they wrongly think bread will make us poorly, and now some of us are dying of starvation without your bread. Yes it’s not the healthiest for us, but having nothing in our bellies will kill us!” In the replies, a factional…

On a trip to the Lakes with a girlfriend pre-Covid, we found a torn shopping list on the floor, its usefulness outlived. We were intrigued. We pored over the items, building up a story about the person who’d written it. Who they were, what they were shopping for, what occasion they’d be using those ingredients for. Spying such a list can bring out our prejudices. That same pal, in the early stages of our friendship, doubted our compatibility when we made a joint shopping list for a group occasion. Why? My inclusion of instant coffee. THE LIVES OF OTHERS Seeing someone else’s shopping list doesn’t happen often. These letters written to ourselves are rarely seen by others unless in extenuating circumstances. Like, say, a global pandemic. During the lockdowns, my…

Dear Jon We haven’t met but I’m a big fan. I realise you’re an award-winning director, a successful Hollywood actor, a bona fide A-list celebrity… You’re even Monica’s millionaire boyfriend in Friends, my partner’s favourite TV show. But the reason I identify with you is your love of food. I first watched your film Chef in December 2014. My restaurant, Salon, was coming to the end of its third year – honestly, those three years were some of the toughest of my life. I was slogging it, day in, day out. I was there for every single service, every single shift. On my days ‘off’ I’d do the banking and place orders for the next day. I loved what I did, but damn, it was a slog. I don’t think…

In the UK, 90 per cent of the avocados sold are the haas variety – which has an egg shape and rough skin that darkens as the fruit ripens – but you also see smoother, green-skinned varieties such as fuerte, pinkerton, ryan and ettinger. Avos are notoriously tricky to catch at the moment of perfect ripeness – one day hard, the next over-ripe and discolouring inside – but innovations in controlling the ripening mean many are now sold as ‘ready to eat’. If ripening at home, check for ripeness by pulling the stem – it should come away easily to reveal green flesh.…

Fish and chips for two SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 25-30 MIN, OVEN TIME 30-40 MIN, PLUS SOAKING • 500-600g floury potatoes such as maris piper, cut into 1cm thick batons • Sunflower oil for tossing and deep frying (about 500ml) • 50g plain flour, plus extra to dust • 25g rice flour or cornflour • Large pinch paprika • ½ tsp salt • ¼ tsp baking powder • Large pinch bicarbonate of soda • 150ml ale, lager or sparkling water • 2 x 200g sustainable skinless white fish fillets, such as haddock, sole or plaice • Tinned mushy peas, lemon wedges, malt vinegar and ketchup to serve HOMEMADE TARTARE SAUCE • 75g good-quality mayonnaise • 1 tsp English mustard • ½ tbsp each finely chopped gherkins, green olives and capers…

The expert guide to… ORANGE WINE If you’ve never heard of orange wine – a fast-growing trend – this is the moment. White wine is almost always made by crushing white grapes and removing the juice straightaway for fermentation. Orange wines (also known as skin-contact or amber wines) are also made with white grapes but are treated like reds in the winery. After crushing, the skins are left in with the juice for a long period – sometimes months – to add colour, aroma and tannic structure to the finished wine. You’ll notice the colour first – light amber – and the taste often has notes of citrus peel, spice, pepper, nuts and even savoury and woody hints. This method of production has ancient origins – it used to be…

PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON Blood orange, pomegranate and Campari steamed pudding with proper custard SERVES 4-6. HANDS ON TIME 30 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 90 MIN (IF STEAMING) FOOD TEAM’S TIP Here’s the clever hack: cover the pudding basin with cling film, pierce a few times with a fork, then microwave on high for 4-5 minutes. Leave to rest for 2 minutes before turning out onto a serving plate. USE IT UP Whisk the leftover egg whites with a pinch of salt or sugar, then freeze in a sealed container for up to 3 months. • 2 blood oranges or oranges, zested, skin removed and flesh cut into segments • 80g fresh pomegranate seeds • 3 tbsp golden syrup, plus an extra 2…

My stepmother, Melanie, looks at me thoughtfully. “I would say the word was ‘frustrating’,” she says carefully, referring to the six years she spent catering for my ‘vegetarianism’. I use quotation marks because if I could sneak a steaming spoonful of spag bol from the pan when no one was looking, I would – my turning vegetarian aged 14 was not the ethical choice I insisted it was, but a ploy to minimise the calories I consumed. Though both my parents and step-parents saw this for what it was, it was Melanie who did the shopping and cooking for me and my three younger brothers when we were at Dad’s; Melanie who bore the brunt of my hogging all the vegetables and refusing meat and potatoes, so forcing her to…

Jerk chicken wraps with bean salsa and hot sauce mayo SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Keep leftover chicken, salsa and mayo covered and chilled separately for up to 2 days. Heat the grill to medium. Cut 4 free-range skinless chicken breasts into thick slices, then toss with 2 tsp jerk seasoning, 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves, the grated zest and juice of 1 lime and 1 tbsp vegetable oil until coated. Put on a baking sheet lined with foil and grill for 6 minutes on each side until cooked through and lightly charred on the outside. To make the salsa, toss 200g chopped fresh pineapple pieces with a 400g tin drained and rinsed kidney beans, 6 finely sliced spring onions, a large handful fresh coriander and…

SARDINES RULE OK The health benefits of eating oily fish for its omega-3 fats are well known, but now there’s even better news. A major new study in the Mayo Clinic Proceedings medical journal has shown the strongest link ever between two types of omega-3 fats (EPA and DHA) found in oily fish and a reduced risk of cardiovascular disease and heart attack. In fact, the researchers recommend consuming 1000-2000mg of these fats per day to reap the full benefits, which equates to an 85g serving of salmon, herring, tinned sardines or mackerel. A fine excuse for a regular smoked salmon and scrambled egg breakfast, we reckon. NEW ON THE BLOCK Our spies in LA say saffron lattes are the new go-to hot drink after reports that the spice has…

RECIPES CHING›HE HUANGPHOTOGRAPHS TAMIN JONESFOOD STYLING AYA NISHIMURA ANDROSIE REYNOLDS STYLING WEI TANG Hot and sour soup SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, PLUS SOAKING “I was taught this recipe by Mama Huang, the queen of comforting hot and sour soup. The ‘hot’ comes from ginger, chilli and white pepper, the ‘sour’ from rice vinegar. To turn it into a noodle soup, add cooked vermicelli rice noodles at the end.” KNOWHOW Dried wood ear mushrooms, (black fungus) are spongy and slippery. Buy at Asian supermarkets or sous-chef.co.uk. • 50g dried wood ear mushrooms (see Know-how) • 1 tbsp cornflour • 1 tbsp rapeseed oil • 2.5cm piece fresh ginger, grated • 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped • 8 cherry tomatoes • 3 leaves chinese leaf, finely sliced •…

CORDLESS WONDER I often use an electric hand mixer to whip up puddings and bakes (such as our cover recipe on p72), and this sleek, clever gadget from Cuisinart means no more wandering around mid-recipe to find an available bit of work surface near a plug socket. It has five speeds, starting with a gentle whisk (great when you want to avoid propelling half your mixture out of the bowl) and you can easily increase the speed using your thumb while you’re holding the machine. The unit is a little heavy, so not so good if you’re underpowered in the wrist area, but the beaters pop out easily for cleaning. It comes with a small charging plug, so there’s no bulky charging unit to store, and you get 20 minutes…

WORCESTERSHIRE Eckington Manor THE HOTEL With its working farm and cookery school, Eckington Manor has a reputation for excellent food as well as tranquil surroundings. In the Avon valley on the Cotswold borders, the ancient property is set in 260 acres of water meadow pasture. It has won awards for its ethically farmed, pedigree herds of Aberdeen Angus and Highland cattle, Lleyn sheep, and Gloucester Old Spot pigs. THE ROOMS In many ways, the hotel is more of a small village than a manor. There are 17 bedrooms, all contemporary in their bathrooms and details, but enjoying much of the property’s traditional features as well. They are spread over four converted farm buildings – each one available to book individually or for a group or family. THE FOOD AND DRINK…