Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2017 i Delicious UK

Feeling a bit glum? Grab a warm drink, sit down and send the depressing vibes packing with this huggable issue of your favourite magazine. It might be dark and cold outside, but inside it’s toasty and cosy. The perfect recipe (in our view) involves two stages: get outside, breathe big lungfuls of air, clock up a few thousand paces, then reward yourself with wholesome, fantastic flavours to snuggle up with and enjoy in front of a good film on the telly. Suddenly February looks altogether better The quick weekend brunch BAKED EGGS WITH HOT-SMOKED SALMON AND HERBS SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 25 MIN Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Melt a knob of butter in a saucepan, then add 1 finely chopped onion and fry…

RECIPES THAT WORK Every recipe is rigorously tested by our food team, using state-of-the-art Electrolux ovens, so you can be confident they work every time. INGREDIENTS We aim to use easy-to-find seasonal ingredients. We’ll tell you where to find any unusual ingredients and/or what to substitute them with. We use higher-welfare meat for testing, supplied by The Ginger Pig (thegingerpig.co.uk). This symbol next to an ingredient means there are more ideas for using it on our Loose Ends page. HONEST COOKING TIMES Unlike many magazines, our timings include prep such as chopping. Hands-on time is when you’re chopping, stirring or frying. Oven/simmering time is when you can leave the dish in the oven or on the hob. Indicates a vegetarian recipe. Indicates a gluten-free recipe. KNOWHOW Whenever you see…

UNTIL 26 Magical Lantern Festival, Chiswick House and Gardens, London This festival looks to the East as it explores the Silk Road with light sculptures, an ice rink, an ice bar and an impressive food line-up, including katsu, Chinese duck and a marshmallow roasting pit. From £16.50 adult, £10.50 child (weekday in advance); magicallantern.uk/london 17-19 Wakefield Festival of Food, Drink and Rhubarb Wakefield is one of the points making up Yorkshire’s famous rhubarb triangle and the pink delicacy is the stalk of the town at this festival. Enjoy street entertainment, themed menus and cookery demos, and see this wonderful ingredient play a starring role at the food and drink stalls. Entry free; wakefield.gov.uk 18-26 Rye Bay Scallop Week Celebrate the start of the season for this…

These pages are about us doing the hard work so you don’t have to… Joy! We’re sent anything from 40 to 100 new products a month, and we really do try them all: tasting, smelling the aromas, testing gadgets. Only if they’re useful, good-looking and value for money do they get the delicious. seal of approval. KAREN BARNES, EDITOR Spring! It’s on the way… Surely? Well, it is in china form, at least. The Arabesque range by Swedish company Sthål is in an array of matching greens that shows off food beautifully or looks equally good layered up on the table, ready to receive whatever you’re serving. Despite being embossed with exotic flowers, foliage and birds, the look is harmonious. From £8 for a dip bowl, up to £100 for…

WHAT OUR FINAL JUDGING PANEL SAID “Tastes like chicken used to. You can almost taste the grass. Herby. So moist – even the breast has flavour.” A quiet revolution is happening at Kings Coppice Farm in the countryside around Cookham in Berkshire. The surroundings are suitably peaceful, but brother-and-sister duo Tom and Sarah Copas are making a firm stand against mass-produced poultry in the best way they know how: by proving that there’s a viable – and great-tasting – alternative to intensively farmed poultry. Disillusioned with the choices available to would-be chicken farmers, they decided to take action and do things differently. Thus the idea for The Thoughtful Producer was born. “It’s about doing things properly, in a traditional way,” explains Sarah, who oversees sales and marketing, while Tom…

“The Sunday roast is a meal that brings people together – and it justifies a little snooze in the afternoon, too! My approach is to keep it simple. Skip the starter – there will be plenty of food to come – and begin with a savoury cocktail instead. The roast meat doesn’t need to be complicated – herbs and garlic are all it needs, and the vegetables can be given an easy flavour flourish. Finish with a prep-ahead pud and your feasting will be as enjoyable for you as it is memorable for the gathered throng.” DEBBIE MAJOR SUNDAY ROAST MENU FOR 6  Tequila Bloody Mary Roast leg of lamb with rosemary and garlic pesto Twice-roasted potatoes Roast carrots with nigella seeds Cauliflower, leek and cheese gratin Lamb gravy Blood…

What’s your breakfast style? Do you always hit the snooze button, then only have time for a quick bowl of cereal? Or perhaps you wait until you get to work, then enjoy a leisurely porridge at your desk? With Alpro’s great-tasting and healthy* plant-based range, you can easily add a twist to your everyday favourites. Try adding a splash of fibre-rich Alpro Oat Original drink to give granola and blueberries an oaty twist. Or why not pair deliciously healthy** Alpro Almond Unsweetened drink with porridge, sliced banana and a drizzle of honey? Or simply sprinkle some chopped nuts and seeds on top of a bowl of Alpro Simply Plain soya alternative to yogurt. Let Alpro inspire you to get more out of your mornings with a plant-based twist on breakfast.…

“My mother is Mary Berry. Well, to me she is. She’s the woman solely responsible for my ability, passion and sometimes foolhardy ambition when I bake. In my childhood memories, she’s permanently enrobed in a gingham tabard and there was nothing this woman couldn’t make, bake or generally concoct in her kitchen. If I were to sum up a childhood of kitchen memories in one dessert, queen of puddings instantly springs to mind. It was Mum’s go-to dessert when ingredients were scarce, and for me it’s a classic case of my mother being a kitchen alchemist and turning a few mundane ingredients into something fantastic – a fine example of the whole being more than the sum of its parts. The recipe is easy and comforting, and its warmth, familiarity…

WEEKNIGHT PROMISE Your guarantee for every recipe in this section: NO MORE THAN… • 10 ingredients• 30 min hands-on time• 650 calories per portion (but many of the recipes have fewer)• 10g sat fat per portion PLUS… • No unnecessary added sugar• Minimal washing up Chicken casserole with tarragon dumplings SERVE 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 40 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make to the end of step 2 the day before and chill. Reheat for 5 minutes, then add the dumplings and continue to cook for 20 minutes. HOW WE MADE IT LIGHTER We’ve swapped traditional suet for yogurt, giving a lighter, softer dumpling. •  175g self-raising flour• 6 free-range skinless, boneless chicken thighs, quartered• Olive oil for frying• 4 banana shallots, chopped• 250g carrots, cut into chunks• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped• 500ml fresh chicken stock• 3½ tbsp dijon mustard• 20g fresh…

“A good breakfast can set you up for a busy day, but at weekends a lazy brunch makes for a relaxing change of pace. These nourishing recipes feel like a treat but are quick to pull together. Pick and choose whatever you fancy – they’re what lie-ins were made for” Masala omelette with spinach and soured cream dressing SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN “Eggs are one of the healthiest morning meal options. I’ve spiced up a classic omelette, topped it with spinach, then finished it with a soured cream dressing.” •  Bunch fresh coriander, finely chopped• 1 tbsp olive oil• 1 small green chilli, finely chopped• 1 onion, finely chopped• 2 cooked beetroot (not in vinegar), finely chopped• 1 tsp garam masala• 4 large free-range eggs• ½ tsp salt• ½ tsp ground turmeric• Large handful spinach FOR THE…

Lighter shepherd’s pie SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME 30 MIN HOW WE DID IT We replaced a lot of the meat with lentils to reduce the fat, and used cauliflower in the topping to cut down on carbohydrate. To boost the flavour we added more carrot than usual and a little grated parmesan. MAKE AHEAD Make the shepherd’s pie without baking it (step 4), cover with cling film and chill for up to 48 hours or freeze for up to 1 month. Defrost fully in the fridge, then bake as in the recipe. •  1 tbsp rapeseed oil• 1 onion, finely chopped• 3 carrots, chopped into 1cm dice• 150g button mushrooms, quartered or cut into chunks if large• 2 garlic cloves, crushed• 150g 10% lean lamb mince• 250g ready-cooked puy lentils (we used…

THE CHALLENGE: ENGLISH MUFFINS p112 These old-fashioned tea-time treats take a little work but, slathered in butter, are a doddle to eat CHEF’S STEP BY STEP: THAI PORK CURRY p115 Som Saa restaurant’s Andy Oliver takes you through a Thai classic from the north of the country RISOTTO THE ITALIAN WAY p110 Cookery writer Valentina Harris reveals the proper stages of making this classic rice dish MEET OUR E XPERTS REBECCA WOOLLARD Food editor LOTTIE COVELL Acting food lifestyle editor ELLA TARN Cookery assistant LUCAS HOLLWEG Chef and food writer XANTHE CLAY Chef, writer, and preserves and freezing queen…

“The traditional English muffin is a perfect thing: dense, chewy, made to be toasted, then slathered in butter. They’re completely different from the spongy, sweet muffins that have eclipsed them in popularity (although they have their place). The originals are one of my favourites for breakfast or afternoon tea – and they’re not hard to make. I’ve used a simple starter dough for my recipe because it gives a deeper flavour – just give it a quick mix, leave for a few hours, then use. Apart from that, all you need is a heavy-based frying pan and a bit of patience. Once you’ve made your own, no shop-bought muffin will ever be good enough.” English muffins MAKES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN, PLUS RISING AND PROVING, AND 12-24 HOURS FOR…

I love it. It kills the bugs, it gives the world a bit of sparkle, and it makes it feel right to hunker down inside with cosy food and a box set. Come to think of it, that’s far more my kind of Valentine’s night than a restaurant full of couples not talking to each other, handing over sorry-looking red roses that have spent too long in the florist’s chiller store. On p58 we’ve created five recipes made for sharing, snuggled up in front of something you both want to watch on the telly (now there’s a challenge – and we’re giving you inspiration for that, too). To whet your appetite I’ll mention oven-baked chips with a herby melted cheese topping… There are so many other things to celebrate this…

Restaurateur James Ramsden, our roving London trend-spotter, chills out in some winter wonderlands Perhaps it’s because we like things a little cutesy, or maybe it’s just because actual Alpine holidays are ruinously expensive, but there’s a spate of mountain lodge/schloss/fondue and open fire/cosy glühwein pop-ups kicking about this winter. Head to the Four Seasons hotel on Park Lane (fourseasons.com) to at least get close to spending what you would in Méribel, without the EasyJet hassle, for cognac lodges and what they reckon is “winter’s most Instagrammable heated hideaway”. In the City, the Coq d’Argent (coqdargent.co.uk) has its annual Lodge d’Argent, a winter terrace offering the comfort of a French ski chalet at a fraction – I suspect a sizeable fraction – of the price. Hard to say no to tartiflette,…

GATHERINGS: RECIPES FOR FEASTS GREAT AND SMALL £25, Mitchell Beazley The debut book from 20-year-old Flora Shedden, the youngest ever semifinalist on GBBO, is a collection of recipes that go way beyond baking. There are ideas for breakfasts both wholesome and indulgent, menus for casual feasting and a host of enticing mains, starters, sides and – of course – fabulous puddings and bakes. THE OXFORD COMPANION TO CHEESE £40, Oxford University Press This 850-page encyclopaedic tome is a sister title to the magisterial reference work The Oxford Companion to Food. Edited by US cheese expert Dr Catherine Donnelly, it covers everything from world artisan cheese styles (from Appenzeller to Zamorano) and producers, to tasting terms and cooking advice. A must-read for curd nerds and cheese lovers. CITRUS £20, Quadrille (out…

THE COOKERY SCHOOL WHERE Lucknam Park Cookery School, Colerne, Wiltshire THE COURSE Fish and shellfish, £175 for a full day (includes lunch and other treats) TESTED BY Emma Gray WHAT IT’S LIKE Driving up towards Lucknam Park, a much-garlanded country house hotel near Bath, the magnificent setting stopped me in my tracks: horses trotted past the grand Cotswold-stone mansion, flowers lit up the borders of the manicured lawns and the sound of traffic faded away into the distance. The estate, set in 500 acres of parkland, was purchased by a shipping family in 1994, and the place now functions as a hotel, spa, equestrian centre and cookery school. The school is set inside a cottage, a short stroll from the main hotel. The kitchen is rustic yet modern, designed to…

THE HERITAGE ONE BBC RADIO 4: THE FOOD PROGRAMME This long-running, multiple-award-winning radio programme is also downloadable as a podcast. It’s one of the most listenable and insightful programmes around, covering everything from investigative stories on the struggles and triumphs of British food producers to notes on the Pope’s favourite dessert. Primarily presented by celebrated food journalists Sheila Dillon and series producer Dan Saladino, The Food Programme shines a light on every aspect of the food we eat. • Listen at bbc.co.uk/programmes/b006qnx3 or via iTunes THE LONG-STANDING ONE THE SPLENDID TABLE American Public Media’s The Splendid Table started as a traditional radio programme more than 20 years ago when producer and food lover Sally Swift approached food writer and cooking teacher Lynne Rossetto Kasper. The pair came up with the idea to…

Cider-cooked apple, onion and cheese galette SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, SIMMERING AND OVEN TIME 45-50 MIN, PLUS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Make the pastry up to 24 hours in advance and keep, wrapped in cling film, in the fridge. The apple and onion mixture can be made up to the end of step 3 up to 24 hours in advance. Keep chilled. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS To make this vegetarian, replace the cheeses with 300g vegetarian cheddar. FOR THE FLAKY PASTRY • 165g plain flour, plus extra to dust• 100g cornmeal or polenta• ½ tsp salt• 165g unsalted butter, wrapped in foil, then frozen for at least 1 hour• 7-8 tbsp (100-120ml) iced water• 1 medium free-range egg, beaten, to glaze FOR THE FILLING • 60g unsalted butter• 3 large onions, sliced• 4 eating apples (we used braeburn), peeled…

“I love the way clams punch above their weight when it comes to tasting of the sea – they look tiny out of their shells, but the ozoney flavour and wonderful aroma more than make up for their lack of size. Although clams can be expensive, they’re so simple to cook with and they’re one of my favourite ingredients at this time of year when they’re at their best.” LOTTIE COVELL, ACTING FOOD LIFESTYLE EDITOR WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN YOU BUY The shells can be open or closed, but when you tap them on a hard surface there should be some movement to show the clams are alive. Ask your fishmonger when they were caught and make sure the shells aren’t damaged or broken. The most popular UK clam,…

“Once the heady days of the grand Valentine’s gesture are over and you settle into a more comfortable routine, you may start to think there’s nothing nicer than snuggling up on the sofa, sharing a plate of good food and a bottle of wine and watching something engrossing on TV. These recipes are perfect for those occasions, when you want to do more than just open a bag of popcorn but still need something that can be eaten with your fingers. And you can scale up the recipes if you’re having a group sofa-fest. What you watch is up to you, of course, but we’ve included some of our favourites in case you need some ideas.” REBECCA WOOLLARD, FOOD EDITOR Crispy chips with chilli salsa and cheese SERVES 2. HANDS-ON…

GRAB A BARGAIN • Exquisite Collection Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Loire, France (£5.49, Aldi) There’s a bright, early spring-like quality to this green-appley, slightly grassy dry white. • Estevez Pinot Noir Reserva 2015, Central Valley, Chile (£4.79, Aldi) Smooth and easy-going with plump black cherries and a rich chocolate note. Another Aldi bargain. • Taste the Difference Fairtrade Moscato Sparkling Rosé 2015, South Africa (£5, Sainsbury’s) Fun, frivolous pink froth, medium-sweet, and a decent example of low-alcohol wine (5.5%). Works well with fruit salad or sorbet. FRIDAY SPECIAL • Le Stelle Vermentino di Sardegna 2015, Italy (£8.79, Waitrose) A refreshing, classy Sardinian white with green-herbal and ginger notes. Try it with top-notch seafood. • Sole de Recas Shiraz-Feteasca Neagra 2015, Timis, Romania (£8.75, Oddbins) Something different: a Romanian red, bold and rich with raspberries and…

“The tactile pleasure of baking and the simple goodness that goes into it are immeasurably satisfying. These recipes use natural ingredients that have had as little interference as possible, with no additives or preservatives, and I’ve included dairy-free alternatives, too. There are many ways to make baking that little bit more wholesome – with interesting flours, spices, nuts and fruit. I avoid using white cane sugar, opting for coconut palm sugar instead, as I prefer its flavour. Everything in moderation is my motto.” JORDAN BOURKE Parsnip cake SERVES 10-12. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 10-15 MIN, PLUS COOLING “The addition of parsnip to a cake seems to draw gasps, but it’s no more unusual than carrot. In fact, I’d argue that the chewy sweetness of parsnips makes…

“Microbial diversity is the key to health. Low microbe diversity is implicated in obesity, diabetes, allergies and autoimmune diseases” Choosing a so-called healthy diet isn’t easy. We’re bombarded with contradictory messages from nutrition experts, doctors, food manufacturers and the government about what we should be eating and what we should be avoiding. Is it sugar that’s the culprit this month? Or is it fat… or carbs? Meanwhile, obesity and diabetes are on the rise. But there IS an answer. It inhabits the lower gut, weighs some 1.8kg, contains 100 trillion microbes and is called the gut microbiome. Each of us possesses a unique set of microbes, which vastly outnumber our cells and genes, and their function is to help digest food and keep us alive and healthy. Now, cutting-edge research…

WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH...? MAPLE SYRUP It’s the boiled-down sap of the sugar maple (Acer saccharum) . Most is produced in eastern Canada and New England. Each tree yields 35-50 litres sap a year, enough for 1 litre syrup. Pure maple syrup has a clean, complex, nutty flavour with hints of vanilla and spice. It’s not cheap but a little goes a long way. IS IT ALL THE SAME? Maple syrup is graded according to colour and translucence, from early and mid-season Golden and Amber to rich late-season Dark and Very Dark. The intense darker grades are usually used in baking or sweet-making, while the paler grades are used at the table. Cloudy syrup doesn’t make the grade. TRY THIS Inspired by our citrus feature on p50, try shaking…

“This is a classic northern Thai dish. The spices show influences from India and Burma, and the curry is rich and complex with a wonderful aroma as it cooks. The sauce has a typical sweet-sour character to it, which makes it irresistible. It’s the perfect introduction to northern Thai cuisine, and it’s worth tracking down a few special ingredients to make it.” MEET THE CHEF Andy Oliver is co-chef at Som Saa restaurant in east London. After reaching the MasterChef semi-finals in 2009, Andy worked at Michelin-starred Thai restaurant Nahm in London with legendary chef David Thompson. He went on to work at Bo.Lan in Bangkok and The Begging Bowl in Peckham before opening Som Saa restaurant with co-chef Mark Dobbie and general manager Tom George in April 2016. YOU…

“To give your child a glass of orange juice for breakfast has been made akin to rubbing poison in their eyes” Watch superhero movies and the character with magical powers always needs an equally powerful arch-enemy. In the world of food and health, where arbitrary foodstuffs are frequently granted magical superfood status by self-appointed wellness gurus, it seems appropriate that there should be something for them to battle. The enemy used to be the combined forces of cholesterol and saturated fat, but these days that mantle has passed firmly to sugar. Sugar, so the story goes, is a vile, toxic and addictive poison. A dangerous shapeshifting evil, it hides in our favourite foods making us fat and sick. It’s a drug as pernicious and consuming as the purest crystal meth.…

Good night in If you need inspiration for a film to watch alongside the sofa snacks on p58, Life Animated is a top choice. It’s a hope-filled docu-film telling the remarkable story of Owen Suskind, autistic son of Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist Ron Suskind and his wife Cornelia. Owen became mute as a toddler, and the film tells how he learned to communicate again through Disney dialogue. There’s a coming-of-age cooking moment involving choc chip cookies, too. Available on DVD now, £9.99 Fireside read Adventures of a Terribly Greedy Girl is a romp through the life of author, food writer and one-time male model-booker Kay Plunkett-Hogge. There are recipes and checklists peppered among the riotous stories, giving the book great pace. Dip in and out or read on the train to…

STAR EMAIL SUBJECT: Just what was needed FROM : Alex Coleman January begins with a slight sense of dread for me. The novelty and excitement of a new year don’t escape me, but I never feel quite ready to go cold turkey on warming food and comfort. You got it spot on with January’s issue of delicious. – gently easing me out of December excesses, yet in such a way that I have no guilt about cooking and eating a number of hearty winter dishes in tandem. SUBJECT : Clued up FROM : Lydia Cockram For the past few years I’ve bought the Christmas issue of delicious. for the recipes and gift ideas. This year I read the magazine all the way through and noticed the food lover’s crossword at…

1703 Mount Gay Estate in Barbados began distilling rum (known back then as ‘Kill-Devil’) on 20 February, making it the oldest existing rum brand in the world. 1795 On 2 February Napoleon offered 12,000 francs to anyone who could improve food preservation for his army, prompting the discovery that heating food sealed in glass jars lengthens its shelf life. 1881 Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova was born on 12 February. It was said, “She does not dance; she soars as though on wings,” which is perhaps why the light, airy dessert was named after her. 1953 Toffee apples were a bestseller when sweet rationing was ended in the UK on 5 February. City workers queued for boiled sweets and a firm in Clapham gave 800 school children 68kg of lollipops during…

PIE PICNICS I come from a working-class family in a not-too-posh area of Southampton in Hampshire. We didn’t eat extravagantly. Almost every Sunday the family, along with my gran, cousins and aunties, would all travel to a beach in Bournemouth and later come back through the New Forest. Nan worked for a pie factory and she’d bring lots of delicious meat pies, which we’d eat in the forest before the last leg in a pub. Those are fond memories. LOVE OF FORAGING My first job was an apprenticeship with Paul Norman at a country house hotel called Rhinefield House in the New Forest, with a sous chef who was keen on mushroom picking. I found it fascinating foraging in the forest – ceps and girolles – the satisfaction of finding…

HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste experts. We conduct our tests without packaging, so our tasters don’t know who produced each product or how much it costs. And to prevent one tester influencing another, the panel aren’t allowed to confer during the tests, so the results you read below are unbiased. WHAT WE LOOKED FOR Hazelnut chocolate spread should be a rich treat with an enveloping chocolatey taste and smooth, spreadable texture. The flavour should be natural, not too sweet or salty, with a toasty depth from the nuts. SUPERMARKET WINNER Asda Chosen By You Hazelnut Chocolate Spread, £1.50 for 400g Premium taste, with a long-lasting nutty flavour and buttery texture. Perfect for toast. SUPERMARKET RUNNER-UP Marks & Spencer Smooth Italian Hazelnut Chocolate Spread, £3 for 200g Roasted aroma,…

THE MASTER RECIPE Buttermilk pancakes SERVES 4 (MAKES 12 PANCAKES). HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN •  150g plain flour• ½ tsp baking powder• ½ tsp cream of tartar• 1 tbsp caster sugar• 2 large free-range eggs, separated• 284ml carton buttermilk• Knob of butter for frying 1 Mix the flour, baking powder, cream of tartar, sugar and a large pinch of salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the centre, then add the egg yolks and stir. Slowly pour in the buttermilk, stirring constantly, to form a smooth, thick batter. 2 In a separate large, spotlessly clean bowl, whisk the egg whites using an electric mixer until they form soft, floppy peaks. Using a metal spoon or balloon whisk, gently fold the whites into the pancake batter, starting with a tablespoon, then adding the rest in…

THE GOVERNMENT ADVISOR TIM LANG “In the lead-up to the referendum, the discourse surrounding the EU was overwhelmingly negative, with a focus on ‘crazy’ bureaucrats imposing unnecessary food standards. In reality, being a member of the EU has helped the UK transform its food scene from a culinary backwater to one of the most exciting and forward-looking food cultures in the world. We have greater access to a wider range of fresh fruit and vegetables from the Continent than ever before; we’ve adopted café culture; and there are thousands of interesting European foods to try. And the success of the Common Agricultural Policy (CAP), meanwhile, means we have excellent food security. By leaving the EU we are facing a period of destabilisation at a time when we’re also experiencing rising…

“Cooking with the zingy flavours of citrus and tropical fruit, in savoury or sweet dishes, brings happy thoughts of warmer times. The vivid colours are a welcome contrast to the cold and grey outside, reminding me that spring isn’t far away, and I’ve created these recipes to bring it a little bit closer.” LOTTIE COVELL, ACTING FOOD LIFESTYLE EDITOR Sicilian lemon pappardelle with ’nduja and crunchy breadcrumbs SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN KNOWHOW ’Nduja is a spreadable spicy Calabrian pork sausage. Find it in Italian delis, large supermarkets and at natoora.co.uk, or use crumbled cooking chorizo. •  30g unsalted butter• 4 banana shallots, sliced• 2 garlic cloves, crushed• Zest and juice 3 lemons (ideally Sicilian), plus wedges to serve• 50g ’nduja, crumbled (see Know-how)• Bunch fresh flatleaf parsley, chopped• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus…

Meaty, comforting cooking is one of the great pleasures of February. Slow-cooked braised beef is quick to put together but it does need a long stint in the oven. Make our master recipe, eat half, then use the leftovers in one of these three simple, flavoursome recipes THE MASTER RECIPE Red wine braised beef and vegetable stew SERVES 2 WITH ENOUGH LEFTOVERS TO MAKE ONE OF THE RECIPES (RIGHT). HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 3½-4 HOURS MAKE AHEAD The finished dish will keep, covered in the fridge, for 3-4 days. Freeze in freezer bags or a sealed plastic container for up to 3 months. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Try to buy beef shin steaks with the bone in (ask your butcher, or buy from Ocado or Waitrose). Cook the bone…

MIDWEEK MEALS Warm up the lighter way with hearty dishes that pack in the feelgood factor without the high sat fat VEGGIE BRUNCH Chetna Makan has weekend lie-ins covered with these breakfast recipes ON THE PULSE Georgina Fuggle gives new life to the old staples, beans and pulses THE MAKEOVER Our shepherd’s pie sheds fat and calories, but leaves flavour intact…

“Snobbery about frozen fruit, vegetables, meat and fish is misplaced” Frozen food has long had an image problem. Many home cooks sniff at freezer fare, dismissing it as poor quality, less nutritious than fresh, and somehow not good enough if you proudly prepare meals from scratch. But according to nutrition scientists it’s time for this frosty attitude to thaw. The experts are not, of course, referring to the ever-expanding range of pre-prepared food vying for space in the freezer aisle, from bangers and burgers to pizzas and chips. But when it comes to frozen produce such as fruit, vegetables, meat and fish, scientists say these foods can be just as nutritious – more so, even – than fresh. These days, food often has a long journey from field to fork.…

“For the past year, chickpeas have replaced my chicken, and pinto beans my pasta. Pulses are nutritious. Each one is essentially a little seed so powerful that it can sprout and grow an entire plant. It’s no wonder they’re a rich source of carbohydrate and protein. They’re also stuffed with fibre (far more than brown rice), folate (considerably more than kale) and loaded with antioxidants. With pulses it’s not just about what they have but also what they lack, so let’s not forget that they’re gluten free and very low in fat. It’s time to put your fingers on the pulse, get excited, get cooking and get eating. Cheesy cauliflower and flageolets with truffle oil SERVES 4 (6 AS A SIDE). HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 30 MIN MAKE…

Cookery writer Valentina Harris has written more than 30 Italian cookery books, including one solely about risotto. Here she shares the secrets of this classic dish – and the romantic Italian cookery terms. 1 IL SOFFRITTO (THE BASE) Fry the onion, plus garlic or other vegetables, over a low heat in a deep, heavy-based pan until soft, but don’t allow them to colour. Move the pan off the heat when it looks like it might be getting too hot, then let it cool slightly before resuming cooking. Stir frequently and add a tiny drop of stock if needed, to prevent browning. 2 LA TENTAZIONE (THE TEMPTATION) Add the rice when the onion is completely softened. Toast it carefully over a low to moderate heat, moving the pan on and off…