Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2020 i Delicious UK

It’s never too early for a hot cross bun. Sitting down with a buttery toasted one (see p26 for four game-changer recipes) while thinking ahead to the long Easter weekend is a delicious. moment. Easter is at the beginning of April this year – a hop and a skip away – so we’ve gone early and included bucketfuls of inspiration in this issue so you have time to mull over the recipes and plan what to cook. You might have gathered I’m looking forward to it. PHOTOGRAPHS: TREVOR LEIGHTON, CHRIS COURT, MIKE ENGLISH Before Easter there’s Mothering Sunday, when cake is hoped for, maybe expected and always appropriate. But what to make? On p66, Debora Robertson writes about the joys of plainer cakes that, these days, risk being upstaged by…

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There’s some irony in the fact that David Atherton grew up not watching television, yet went on to win season 10 of one of the world’s most popular reality TV programmes, The Great British Bake Off. His childhood, spent in rural Yorkshire, was somewhat alternative. “I was brought up vegetarian and we had chickens and an organic vegetable plot,” recalls soft-spoken David. “I was the kid who went to school with nuts and dried figs in my lunchbox.” His savvy mum, with five children to look after, got them all into the kitchen at an early age. “She would make fresh bread for us and we’d play with the dough.” Knitting, crocheting and gardening were the order of the day. “I’m very into crafts,” says David. “I love food, but…

In association with The Good Food Guide Rules London; rules.co.uk WHERE This Covent Garden stalwart lies on the edge of Theatreland. THE SETTING With just three owners in its 222-year history, London’s oldest restaurant is reassuringly impervious to dining fads. A doorman greets you at the threshold, giving access to Rules’ intimate clubby spaces and congenial atmosphere. THE DISHES Seasonal game is the draw, such as roast venison with pear and parsnip purée, though there are more homely dishes too, for when nothing but steak and kidney suet pud or rack of lamb will do. Starters such as smoked eel with beetroot jam and dandelion make some concession to modernity, though puddings are steadfastly traditional. PRICE About £50 for three courses excluding drinks. VERDICT If you’re seeking respite from gels…

Blueberry pie hot cross buns MAKES 8 LARGE BUNS. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 30 MIN, PLUS RISING AND PROVING MAKE AHEAD Cooked buns can be frozen for up to a month, but the glaze won’t be as shiny. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Weigh each piece of dough before rolling to make every bun the same size. • 2 tsp dried yeast (we used Allinson Dried Active Baking Yeast) • 110g caster sugar • 100g unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus extra to grease and (softened) to serve • 2 medium free-range eggs • 1 tbsp ground cinnamon • 2 tsp ground mixed spice • 575g strong white bread flour • Finely grated zest 2 lemons • 100g fresh blueberries • 100g dried blueberries • 2 tsp salt flakes •…

“I usually start with a summary of the virtues of the ingredient I’m cooking with: some history, practical information, maybe a personal experience. But how do you wrap up an egg? It’s more than just an ingredient… It’s a marvel. You need a book to sum up the egg’s culinary importance and relevance to life beyond the kitchen. Given that Easter isn’t far away, I make no apologies for dovetailing this egg-centric introduction alongside our favourite pagan ceremony – you know, the one where an enormous rabbit hops  from garden to garden laying chocolate eggs. There are millions of Easter eggs out there, wrapped in thousands of tons of single-use plastic packaging. However, these aren’t the only eggs. The seasonal recipes I’ve devised here all rely on the unassuming but…

Golden ‘scrambled eggs’ with mushrooms & greens SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN • 200g red split lentils, well rinsed • 200ml oat milk (we used Oatly Barista) • 100g cashew butter • 1 tbsp lemon juice • 80ml extra-virgin olive oil • 60g rice flour • ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda • 4 garlic cloves • 1 tbsp coriander seeds, lightly toasted in a dry pan • 4 tbsp olive oil • 200g large leaf spinach, roughly chopped • 12 portobellini mushrooms • 4-6 slices sourdough bread • Tomato chutney to serve (we like Tracklements) YOU’LL ALSO NEED… • Blender or food processor 1 To make the golden ‘egg’ mixture, cook the lentils for 20 minutes or according to the pack instructions. Drain, then run…

HOLI SHARING MENU FOR 6-8 TO DRINK Thandhai (spiced milk cooler) NIBBLES AND STARTERS Jodhpuri mirchi vada (spiced potato-filled chilli fritters) Papdi chaat (Crisp wheat biscuits with spiced potato and chutney) THE MAIN COURSE Khela kalia (holiday meat curry) Subz mutter pulao (mixed vegetable pilau) FOR DESSERT Malpua (fried pancakes) Holi is an annual spring festival held over two days and celebrated all over India and beyond. It follows the lunar calendar and this year falls on 9-10 March. On the evening of the first day, people light a bonfire and throw all their rubbish on it. It’s symbolic of doing away with the old and looking towards the future, the passing of winter and the arrival of spring. The next day starts early, depending on how much of a…

THE BARGAIN WHITE Mountain Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Western Cape, South Africa (£5, Tesco) Crisp sauv blanc with lots of zesty citrus and tangy passionfruit. Drink on its own or pair with simply steamed mussels, which are in season this month. THE BARGAIN RED Taste the Difference Western Australian Shiraz 2018 (£7.50, down to £6.50 from 4-24 March, Sainsbury’s) With a blackcurrant core and twists of pepper and spice, this unoaked shiraz punches well above its price. Star match for lamb. THE MIDWEEK TREAT El Duque de Miralta Rioja Reserva 2014, Spain (£12, Marks & Spencer) A rioja showing a bit of maturity. Mellow, smooth plum and cassis flavours with a coconutty hint from oak ageing – pair with a long-braised game or beef stew. PREMIUM SUNDAY ROAST WHITE Berry…

PHOTOGRAPHS MING TANG EVANS Spring flowers at Petersham Nurseries, by the Thames in Richmond, are a delight to behold. These fragrant blooms will inspire a menu for delicious. readers, from head chef Ambra Papa. First, after morning coffee, you’ll enjoy a tour of the private kitchen garden of Petersham House, the 17th-century Queen Anne mansion that’s home to Gael and Francesco Boglione, the owners of Petersham Nurseries. You’ll learn how edible flowers such as borage and viola inspire the seasonal dishes in the restaurant. After a glass of prosecco and a cooking demonstration, you’ll enjoy a three-course lunch in a private greenhouse, paired with fine Italian wines. It promises to be a day to remember. Sample seasonal menu by head chef Ambra Papa The menu will be paired with wines…

RADICCHIO Bitter and crunchy with vivid purple/pink leaves, radicchio appeals on the plate as well as to the palate. It’s a favourite in Italy, and varieties range from the firm-hearted kind with purple white-veined leaves to flouncy, pink-speckled castelfranco. Radicchio is a nutritional powerhouse, too: it’s a great source of vitamins C, E and K, along with folate, potassium, copper and manganese. How to enjoy The bitter leaves yearn for sweet companions, so add some to a mixed leaf salad along with fruit – sliced pears and berries are great – or a honey or maple-sweetened dressing. Radicchio’s bitterness is also tamed by heat: slice into wedges, drizzle with olive oil and sear cut-side down until softened and charred.…

Crunchy red cabbage, quinoa and avocado salad with peanut pesto SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the salad up to the end of step 2 a day ahead. Continue from step 3. • ½ red cabbage, thick core removed, then finely sliced • Grated zest 2 limes, juice 4 limes • 20g fresh coriander • 10g fresh mint • 2 tbsp tamari soy sauce • 50g unsalted peanuts • 2.5cm fresh ginger, grated • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 2 tbsp toasted sesame oil • 2 tbsp groundnut oil • 250g pouch cooked quinoa, heated according to the pack instructions (check it’s gluten-free if need be) • 200g edamame beans, defrosted if frozen • ½-1 red chilli, chopped (to taste) • 60g baby leaf spinach • 4…

Khun Malee’s goong tom manao (prawn, chilli and lime soup) SERVES 4 AS PART OF A MEAL. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN “Chef Khun Malee, who’s in her 70s, runs a restaurant called Puong Thong in Chiang Mai. She is one of my food heroes and the originator of this dish. Khun Malee serves this with one giant river prawn per person. I’ve used two large king prawns, but you could use one langoustine or giant prawn each if you like – just don’t overcook them.” • 8-10 bird’s eye chillies, chopped • 4-5 large garlic cloves, peeled • 500ml good quality chicken stock • 200g large sustainable king prawns, peeled, preferably tail on • 4-5 tbsp lime juice • 4-5 tbsp nam pla (fish sauce) • Handful freshly chopped coriander…

Cling film might keep your sandwiches fresh, but this single-use plastic is undeniably bad for the planet – it’s  hard to recycle, which means the majority of it ends up in landfill or in the ocean, where it can choke and kill marine life. Here are some alternatives that are better for the environment. GREASEPROOF & NON-STICK BAKING PAPER Some have a plastic or chemical coating, so they’re not biodegradable or recyclable. What to buy? Unbleached paper with natural greaseproof properties is hard to find. Most are coated with silicone (and still compostable). If You Care parchment baking paper is £4.99 for a 20m roll at lakeland.co.uk. FOIL Aluminium foil is recyclable, but first-use foil is energy-intensive to produce and takes hundreds of years to break down. What to buy?…

CJ JACKSON, SEAFISH AMBASSADOR AND PRINCIPAL OF THE SEAFOOD SCHOOL AT BILLINGSGATE (SEAFOODTRAINING.ORG) DELIVERS KEY SKILLS IN PREPPING FISH AND SHELLFISH “This is called quarter cross filleting, which means you remove four small fillets. Alternatively you can remove two larger fillets (cross cut fillets – see left) for serving in our recipe for sole meunière on p118.” TO MAKE 2 FILLETS Remove the fish’s head, then slip the tip of the knife between the fillet and the back bone. Angle the blade to cut down to the edge/frill, working your way along one side of the fish. Once the fillet is released at the edge, use the tip of the knife to release the flesh to the backbone. Lift the fillet and, with a sweeping action, run the knife close…

WHY DOES IT HAPPEN? If chocolate gets too hot or comes into contact with a little water or condensation while melting (such as the steam from a double boiler), it can seize, turning from a glossy liquid into a stiff, fudgy mess. FAST WAYS TO FIX… If using a double boiler, quickly stir in about 1 tbsp double cream or butter for each 150g chocolate until the mixture turns smooth and glossy again. It won’t be any good for fine chocolate-making, as the chocolate will no longer set hard, but it can still be used in cakes and sauces, and as ganache.…

PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES It’s obvious when you stop to think about it. In these bright, dewy months, when we venture back outside for country walks, when we coo at newborn lambs stumbling on spindly legs after their mothers… Spring is traditionally the time when lambs are born, not when they’re slaughtered. The term ‘spring lamb’ actually refers to lambs born on spring pastures, but the term’s been co-opted to sell lamb at Easter. Right now, lambs should be suckling, not roasting with rosemary and thyme. But hang on, I hear you say, isn’t lamb a tradition at Easter, going back hundreds of years? Well, sort of. It’s a traditional part of the feast for Passover, the Jewish spring festival that takes place around the same time. But that originated in…

Dark chocolate salted caramel fondue SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN Put 200g sugar in a pan with 4 tbsp water and heat gently until dissolved. Bubble until the mixture turns a deep caramel colour, then quickly whisk in 100g cubed salted butter and 100g chopped dark chocolate until melted and smooth (be careful as it might spit). Whisk in 100ml double cream to make a smooth, glossy sauce. Once cooled slightly, add a pinch of salt, then serve with marshmallows (vegetarian if need be), biscotti and fresh fruit to dip. PER SERVING 427kcals, 27.3g fat (17g saturated), 1.2g protein, 43.8g carbs (43.6g sugars), 0.5g salt, 0.6g fibre…

Cook any recipe from delicious. this month and share a picture with us for your chance to win a sleek, stylish and durable Tramontina knife collection, made in Brazil, from bespoke luxury gift experts Farrar & Tanner. The Tramontina knife block has six knives: a 3in paring knife; 5in steak knife; 6in carving knife; 6in boning knife; 8in bread knife; and 8in chef’s knife. You’ll also win a three-piece carving set with 8in carving knife, fork and carving board for making light work of carving your Sunday roast. And, if you wish to, you can have your own personalised message engraved on both prizes. Farrar & Tanner’s range includes cook’s gifts, men’s accessories and fine wines and spirits. farrar-tanner.co.uk FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… Make any recipe from the March…

THE IRISH COOK BOOK A magnum opus from restaurateur JP McMahon. The 500 recipes span thousands of years of Irish food. Beautifully researched, the book examines how Irish geography and identity come together in the country’s food. Phaidon £35 LIFE KITCHEN Author Ryan Riley set up Life Kitchen cookery school after his mother died of cancer. Ryan worked with sense specialist Prof Barry Smith to create recipes that deliver much needed taste to palates dulled by cancer treatment. Bloomsbury £20; out 5 Mar SIMPLE SPICE VEGETARIAN Cyrus Todiwala of London restaurant Café Spice Namasté is a true spice whisperer – his book aims to deliver full-on meat-free dishes that rely on a minimal storecupboard of spices and ingredients. Mitchell Beazley £20; out 5 Mar…

COVETABLE PRINT Folklore-inspired designs from Softer and Wild (read more about the company over the page). Napkins (prints change regularly), £25 for a set of four; oven gloves, £20; tea towels, £12; aprons, £25 MEET THE CRAFTER Bold colours, clean patterns and folklore all inspire Tatiana Nedialkova’s kitchen textile company Softer and Wild “The pleasure is beginning with a small idea and seeing how that develops” HOW IT ALL BEGAN I like cooking and I like how textiles transform a space – both add to the comfort you feel at home. So as an artist, I decided to try out illustrations that would work on textiles – tea towels, oven gloves, napkins. I like the idea of telling the full story so I I buy the raw cotton from my…

ON NIBBLES ALEX MACKAY chef and cookery teacher Ham, tomato & basil sticks with chestnut pesto, and parmesan tuiles GF ON THE MAINS GEORGINA HAYDEN Cook, food writer and stylist Slow-roast pork shoulder with leeks and cannellini beans GF ON THE STARTER PETER GORDON chef and cookbook author Warm root vegetable salad with grapefruit, walnuts & feta V ON THE PUDDING CHETNA MAKAN Food writer, Bake Off contestant and cookbook author Double-layer custard and chocolate mousse V PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMENDFOOD STYLING JEN BEDLOESTYLING MORAG FARQUHAR…

• Wild garlic is growing in the woods now, often with stinging nettles popping up around its fringes. Both are free, easy to cook and delicious. • Sea kale (Crambe maritima) and alexanders (Smyrnium olusatrum) are two wild coastal plants in season in March and well worth seeking out – just make sure you have the landowner’s permission before you fill your basket, and ensure you know what you’re picking. • Watercress is vibrant in late March. Use it in soups (with a poached egg on top), in sauces with fish. Enjoy its peppery punch in salads and wherever there’s a need for something fresh and green. • Forced rhubarb continues to dazzle this month, but only for a few more weeks. Then, from April, it’s over to the hardier…

PHOTOGRAPHS KATE WHITAKERFOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN›SMITH STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE THE MOTHER’S DAY BAKE Baked lemon cheesecake with pineapple flowers SERVES 10-12. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 35-45 MIN, PLUS CHILLING AND COOLING MAKE AHEAD Make the cheesecake and pineapple flowers the day before. Cover and chill the cheesecake. Keep the flowers at room temperature. FOR THE BASE • 200g Hobnob biscuits • 75g unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus extra to grease FOR THE FILLING • 340g full-fat cream cheese (we used Philadelphia) • 250g mascarpone • 200g golden caster sugar • 200ml kefir (fermented milk, widely available) or soured cream • 3 large free-range eggs • 1 tsp vanilla extract • Finely grated zest 3 lemons and juice 2 • 50g plain flour FOR THE TOPPING…

PORTRAIT: KRISTY NOBLE PHOTOGRAPHY. ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES Food is full of mythology, often deeply held and almost impossible to contradict. Some of it is even true. Much of it, however, is not, especially when it comes to the origins of dishes. Yet even when a myth crumbles in the face of logic, we tend to cling to the ideas behind it. The stories we weave about food may seem innocuous, but they’re deeply revealing of who we are, and they can support erroneous ideas about culture, society and politics that go well beyond the question of what we’re having for dinner. OF PLOUGHMAN’S AND PASTIES “A snatched meal of adulterated bread, bad cheese and an onion isn’t romantic” Take the ploughman’s lunch, that mainstay of 1970s pubs. Bread, cheese, pickle,…

“In 50 years of recipe writing there are certain recipes that stand out, probably because something marks them out from all the rest. What makes this one a stand-out is its sheer volume of popularity – people never stop praising it. I’ve always been (and still am) a huge fan of classic bread and butter pudding that’s toasty and crunchy on the top, wobbly underneath and fragrant with nutmeg, citrus peel and currants. PORTRAIT: TREVOR LEIGHTON. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE I could never have even considered a chocolate version of all things until we once discovered – would you believe it – an American restaurant in Essex called Martha’s Vineyard.  The young American chef served a chocolate version, and it was quite simply…

If you’re on the lookout for a white wine that’s dry and unoaked but with extra richness and texture, take a look at wines made from southern Italy’s fiano grape. An ancient variety, it nearly died out in the 20th century but thankfully has been revived and is now grown widely in Campania, Basilicata and on sunny Sicily. It’s a little like viognier, with a rounded texture and a juicy fruit cocktail of flavours. A great fit for creamy pasta sauces, grilled chicken and salmon. ONE TO TRY Sorso Fiano 2018, Sicily, Italy (£6.75, Morrisons) Slightly creamy in texture, this bright Italian white is packed with peaches and yellow plums but has no oaky aromas or flavours. Finishes on a fresh, dry note. ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES…

OUT: PROTEIN BARS IN: NUT BUTTERS Supermarket shelves are piled high with protein bars promoted as healthy snacks, even though many contain just as much sugar (sometimes more) as chocolate bars. Some contain unhealthy fats and additives, too. Nut butters are an excellent alternative. A 2 tbsp serving of peanut butter contains around 8g of protein (the recommended daily intake for adults is 50g). It’s also a good source of niacin and manganese.…

1 USE THE RIGHT POTATOES Choose a variety with a floury texture so the baked spuds have a soft texture without too much bite. Maris piper or desiree are ideal. 2 SLICE AS THINLY AS YOU CAN A mandoline is useful for slicing the potatoes quickly and evenly, but if you don’t have one, a sharp chef ’s knife will do a good job. 3 DON’T RUSH THE PROCESS Take your time over the layering process. The potatoes will cook more evenly if they’re a consistent thickness, and eliminating gaps as you layer will result in a finished bake that’s easy to slice. 4 SEASON WITH CARE With simple fare like this, you need to make sure everything is well seasoned. Seasoning the potatoes with the onion, herbs, cheese and…

GET THE FLAVOUR RIGHT No two chillies or limes are created equal, so frequent tasting is an important part of making this soup. It needs to be hot, tart, salty and bright. TECHNIQUES You don’t need any special equipment for creating Thai soup apart from a large pestle and mortar. To get the most juice from your limes, roll them on a hard work surface before you squeeze them. This encourages the limes to release more juice. Always add lime juice off the heat to prevent bitterness and cloudiness in the finished dish. HOW TO SERVE AND EAT Unless it’s noodle-based, it’s rare to find Thai soup served as a standalone dish (though my mother used to serve tom yum goong as a course at her dinner parties in the…

• Choose plain, not cut or coloured glass, so you can see the colour of the wine clearly. • Pick a glass with a relatively long stem so you can hold it from there, rather than by the bowl, and prevent your fingers warming the wine. • Go for thin glass – it feels better to hold (and nicer on the lips) than thick. • A tulip shape concentrates the aroma and looks elegant. • Avoid small glasses. The bowl should be big enough to let the wine move around, opening up its aroma and flavour (don’t fill much more than one-third full). Susy’s pick For good quality, not overly fragile wine glasses at an affordable price, I recommend Dartington Crystal’s Drink! White and Red, £32 for a set of…

Here are three brilliant ways to brighten up your day with glorious vivid-pink rhubarb 1 PICKLE Mix 100g sugar and 200g white wine vinegar with 1 sliced red chilli, 1 tsp mustard seeds, 1 tsp salt and 2 bay leaves in a pan. Bring to the boil, then leave to cool. Trim 400g rhubarb stalks, cut them into short lengths, then pack into a sterilised glass jar. Cover with the pickling liquid, seal, then chill for at least 2 days. Eat with charcuterie or oily fish. 2 FOOL Trim 500g rhubarb and cut into chunks. Cook in a pan with 80g sugar until soft. Stir in 2-4 tsp rosewater to taste. Whip 250ml double cream to soft peaks, then gently fold in the rhubarb until rippled. Serve with ginger biscuits.…

STAR EMAIL FROM: BETHAN MITCHELL We’re so glad we cooked your ‘instant joy’ recipe from the January issue [p7]. Arthur (four) and Annie (two) enjoyed making your crispy creamy Boursin mushrooms so much they’ve requested them another three times already. Arthur eagerly awaits the arrival of ‘the yummy magazine’ each month and takes pleasure in choosing what he’d like to make for us – although the shortlist is often 10 recipes! He now cooks an entire meal for the family once a week (with a little assistance) and it’s amazing to see the children proudly eat things they’d ordinarily turn up their noses at. That’s the difference it makes when they’ve made the recipes themselves. SUBJECT: KEEPING SOCIABLE FROM: CAROLINE WICKHAM-JONES What a great February issue. All this cooking keeps…

SOURCE FOR STATISTICS: THE NATIONAL AUTISTIC SOCIETY THE PIONEER Mona Shah, founder and MD of chocolatier Harry Specters THE MISSION Chocolate was never part of the plan for Mona. But she and her husband Shaz have a son, Ash, who has autism – a developmental disability that affects how people perceive the world and interact with others. Mona explains, “We were worried about what Ash was going to do once he left full-time education – and speaking to other parents, they had the same worries.” Mona had been working in corporate governance when, in 2011, the family visited a chocolate shop in Scotland. Inspired by what she saw, Mona signed up for a course at the Chocolate Academy in Banbury, Oxfordshire. “While I was there, I realised that making chocolate…

Did you know that 4.4 million potatoes are thrown away in the UK every day? But there is a positive story – we binned 480,000 tonnes less food in 2018 than in 2015, according the Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP). What made the difference? It’s thought it was due to clearer labelling, heightened public awareness and more local authorities offering food waste collections. It’s a move in the right direction, but UK homes still waste 6.6 million tonnes of food a year. Shockingly, WRAP estimates 4.5 million tonnes of that could have been eaten. If you include food wasted in the supply chain, WRAP says the total UK food waste figure is a staggering 9.5 million tonnes per year. That waste produces around 25 million tonnes of CO2 –…

1910 Momofuku Ando, creator of the Instant Noodle, was born in Taiwan on 5 March. His Chikin Ramen first launched as a luxury food in 1958, costing six times more than a bowl of fresh udon or ramen noodles at the time. 1966 Paul Hollywood was born on 1 March in The Wirral. He was studying sculpture when he decided to leave the course and join his father’s bakery chain. Looks like he made the right decision. 1999 Brian Jones and Bertrand Piccard became the first to circumnavigate the earth in a hot air balloon on 21 March. They ate bread, cheese and pre-cooked steaks for the first week before moving on to a dried diet of cereals and powdered milk for the remaining 12 days. 2002 The Queen Mother…

THE DAIRY-FREE EGG Fairtrade brand Divine’s new egg is packed with pieces of freeze-dried raspberries and the 70 per cent chocolate is dairy-free. We also rate the dark choc with pink Himalayan salt. £5 for 90g, Waitrose, Ocado and Holland & Barrett THE WORK OF ART This burst of sunshine is hand-painted using coloured cocoa butter by artisans in Buckinghamshire. The outer shell is white chocolate and there’s a milk choc layer within (like a posh Kinder egg). Marigold egg, £29.95 for 270g, thechocolatelibertine.co.uk THE CUTE ONE Seth the Sloth’s dopey grin will raise a smile from big and little kids. The bright box with its tropical leaves makes it ideal for hiding in the garden for an egg hunt – but it’s a sweet gift for any time of…

Leek & cheddar pithiviers SERVES 6-8 (MAKES 2, EACH SERVING 3-4). HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, SIMMERING TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN, PLUS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD After you’ve rolled and folded the dough in step 3, wrap and chill for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 3 months. Make the filling (steps 4-5) up to 2 days ahead, then cover and chill. • 80g unsalted butter, chopped • 3 garlic cloves, crushed • 3 leeks, trimmed, thinly sliced • 30g plain flour • 2 bay leaves • 310ml vegetable stock • 80ml dry white wine • 100g strong cheddar (check it’s vegetarian if need be), grated FOR THE ROUGH PUFF PASTRY • 450g plain flour, plus extra to dust • 450g cold unsalted butter, cut into…

WE ARE AMUSED, ACTUALLY Sometimes food fakelore is invented to denigrate. The internet will tell you Queen Victoria banned Twelfth cake, the precursor to Christmas cake, because Twelfth Night celebrations were rowdy. There’s no evidence of this: in fact, she was an enthusiastic Twelfth cake consumer. A food story designed to make Victoria seem staid, this is one myth that deserves to be laid to rest. THE CAKE AMERICANS FELL IN LOVE WITH – THEN REJECTED Some dishes don’t catch on. Amelia Simmons published a recipe for the popular ‘New England election cake’ in her book American Cookery in 1796. It was a New World twist on what was originally a generic British fruitcake or fruit bun recipe. Election cakes were baked until the mid-19th century, but now this rich…

“When I was a young chef in Ireland, the brilliant Richard Corrigan had a huge influence on me and my career. I looked in complete awe at what he was doing for Irish food in London. When I finally made the move from Dublin, where I was born and raised, I was honoured to meet this legend and  even more honoured when he shared some recipes with me. He taught me how to make a loaf of traditional soda bread. When I opened The Dairy, I put a little spin on this classic recipe with the addition of Guinness and it has remained on our menus ever since. This is one of the easiest and most satisfying bread recipes. I bake it every St Patrick’s Day (17 March) and serve…

WEEKNIGHT PROMISE Your guarantee for every recipe in this feature: NO MORE THAN… • 10 ingredients (excluding butter/oil and serving suggestions) • 30 minutes hands-on time • 650 calories per portion PLUS… • No unnecessary added sugar Pork and ricotta meatballs with tagliatelle SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN • 100g ricotta • 500g British outdoor-bred lower-fat pork mince • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 30g fresh breadcrumbs • ½ tbsp fennel seeds • 3 tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley, plus extra to serve • Finely grated zest ½ lemon, plus extra to serve • ½ tbsp olive oil • 150ml fresh chicken stock • 150g reduced-fat crème fraîche • 350g tagliatelle 1 Put the ricotta, pork mince, garlic, breadcrumbs, fennel seeds, 2 tbsp of the parsley and the lemon…

“Natural, full-fat milk is no longer the enemy” Until recently, the advice has been to drink skimmed milk to improve health, reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease and ward off obesity. Current NHS Guidelines state that children and adults should choose lower-fat milks because too much fat in the diet contributes to obesity. Although very young children are still advised to drink full-fat milk, the advice is to move youngsters onto skimmed milk to help reduce childhood obesity levels. But recent research indicates this nutrition advice may have been wrong all along. A systematic review of 28 observational studies involving 21,000 children and published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition shows that higher consumption of full-fat milk is actually associated with lower levels of obesity in children. The case…

• Ask your fishmonger where the fish were caught. The Marine Conservation Society says the most sustainable lemon sole fisheries use seine nets in the North Sea and English Channel. Choose fish that are at least 25cm long. • A light dusting of seasoned flour is vital for flavour, helps protect the delicate flesh and guarantees a crisp coating once the fish is fried. • Get the pan properly hot – it should sizzle when you put the fish in, so you get an evenly crisp skin. • Check the fish is cooked by gently pressing the thickest part with your finger. If the sole is ready to turn over or serve, the flesh should just begin to flake under the pressure.…

HOW TO SPOT A RIPE PINEAPPLE The pineapple harvest takes place in the spring, so the tropical fruit is at its cheapest now. The best way to pick out a ripe pineapple is to give the base a sniff and choose one with a sweet fruity aroma. And see p63 for how to make pineapple flower decorations for a special Mother’s Day bake. → Search ‘How to prepare a pineapple’ at deliciousmagazine.co.ukfor a step-by-step guide…

1 THE CLASSIC OVEN METHOD Set the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Prick the potatoes all over with a fork, rub with olive oil, then put on a baking sheet. Cut a cross on the top, then sprinkle with salt. Bake for 1 hour. The result Deep golden with a thick, crisp skin and light, fluffy potato inside. 2 THE CONVENIENCE METHOD Set the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Prick the potatoes all over with a fork, then put on a microwave-proof plate. Cut a cross on the top, then microwave on high for 10 minutes. Carefully move the hot potatoes to a baking sheet, rub with oil, sprinkle with salt, then bake in the oven for 20-30 minutes until golden. The result A thin layer of crisp skin with…

New Orleans’ reputation precedes it. It’s known as the Big Easy and so-called for its laid-back attitude, where there’s good food and good music on every corner, and famously the home of jazz, gumbo and sazeracs. I arrived, like everyone else arrives, greedy and excited. I wasn’t disappointed. It was my honeymoon and I was in the mood to celebrate. Fortunately, nowhere celebrates like New Orleans – whether the occasion is Mardi Gras, the annual JazzFest in April, a wedding, a funeral – or just a monthly pay cheque. And, of course, every New Orleans celebration calls for a feast. The term ‘melting pot’ is applied indiscriminately in the food world, but in this city by the Mississippi River it rings true. New Orleans is fiercely proud of its culinary…

ALL THE COOKERY INSPIRATION YOU NEED • James Martin’s proper Sunday lunch – a cracking roast… and a pudding to match • Bake Off showstopper: Easter (or any time) blueberry & lemon layer cake • Step-by-step guide to making Gail’s bakery’s amazing cinnamon buns • All-new pasta ideas for midweek – quick, easy & yum SO MUCH MORE THAN RECIPES... • Do we need cookery books any more? • Ravinder Bhogal writes to Nigella, her culinary hero • Save our bees: why they’re vital for the planet • Could fodmaps be affecting your health (and what are they)? PLUS A food lover’s odyssey around Alsace MASTERCLASS: THE PERFECT PRAWN COCKTAIL – AND MORE… CLASSIC DELIA: THE RECIPE MATT TEBBUTT SWEARS BY…