Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2019 i Delicious UK

RECIPES THE delicious. FOOD TEAMPHOTOGRAPHS TOBY SCOTT STYLING OLIVIA WARDLEFOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH & OLIVIA SPURRELL In association with AVS Fencing & landscaping HOW TO CREATE A BEAUTIFUL OUTDOOR SPACE • Think and plan What do you want to use the space for? Big gatherings with friends, eating outside for two, three or four – or for moments of solitude with a cup of tea on a sunny day? Think about how to capture the best of the sunlight: are bright mornings your favourite? Or golden afternoon/setting sun? • Demarcate the area Use walls and fencing (existing or new) to anchor or enclose an area – a corner of the garden can create a focus. Define the area with features such as big pots or planters, sleepers, trellises or flower…

1742 Benjamin Franklin invented the Franklin Stove on 11 June. The metal-lined fireplace was designed to create lots of heat and little smoke. He chose not to patent the design so others could replicate it. 1951 The International Cheese Treaty was signed at The Hague on 1 June, outlining the use of appellations d’origine and denominations and restricting the production of famous cheeses such as gorgonzola, edam and roquefort to specific regions within countries. 1965 The Kellogg Company registered a trademark for Pop Tarts on 22 June. With Pop Art at its peak, the pastry had an edge over its rival, Country Squares 2004 A 3m, 120kg sturgeon was caught off the Welsh coast on 2 June. Sturgeon are considered ‘royal fish’, so the Queen was consulted – in the…

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, JOAKUM BLOCKSTROM This speciality coffee company trains young offenders in the art of roasting beans and equips them with the barista and hospitality skills needed for a career in coffee. Founders Max and Ted were exhibiting at London Coffee Festival in 2016 when they were approached by HMP Aylesbury’s former head of reducing offending, who proposed teaching prisoners barista skills. Realising their business could make a positive social impact, Max and Ted moved production to Aylesbury in 2017 and opened the world’s first roastery inside a prison. WHAT DOES REDEMPTION ROASTERS DO? At Aylesbury, after professional barista training, young offenders progress to the prison café, improving their service skills and gaining work experience before tackling the more complex tasks of blending coffee and roasting. Redemption Roasters has…

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES INSPIRING WOMEN My mum is a great cook and made classic Irish food such as lamb stew and fish pies. We always laughed that if everything else went to hell, spaghetti bolognese could still be on the table in minutes. My grandmother was also a fantastic cook. Not long before she died, I asked her what she’d had for dinner the night before and believe it or not she said, “I had nothing in the house, so I made a soufflé.” I like to think I have a little bit of her kitchen confidence. FOOD BLOGGING VS THE 9 TO 5 At 19 I was working as an entertainment reporter, writing stupid showbiz gossip segments about celebrities. I hated it. My boss would be really pissed off…

TAKE A BAO It’s the bun of the moment: soft, steamed and a bit bigger than bite-size. M&S has launched ready-made ones to microwave (or improvise and steam), then fill with Vietnamese-style slow-cooked pork (£5 for 574g), pickled red cabbage (£1.60) and miso sauce (£1). A pretty perfect combo. Bao buns, £2 for six (168g), Marks & Spencer CRISP HYBRID Kettle Chips have evolved beyond just potato and the delicious. team are loving them. The Norfolk pork sausage flavour’s crisps are a mix of potato and apple; or try sweet potato with smoked chipotle and crème fraîche. Yum. £2.25 for 100g SWEET FIX Buy these and you’re going to need some serious willpower as they’re good with a capital G: vanilla ice cream on a stick, coated in chocolate studded…

PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE “This is one of the few things I brought with me when I moved to the UK a decade ago. I came here with just one suitcase containing my most special things. This chakla belan , a board and rolling pin for making flatbreads, was something my dad bought for me when I lived in Mumbai and I used it a lot. My hands have got used to the way it feels. It’s still in great condition and comes out of the cupboard almost every day when I make rotis.”CHETNA MAKAN…

• About 30 minutes before you want to cook, remove the lid and cooking rack and open the vents in the base. Tip the charcoal onto the bottom grate in an even layer. Space out 3-4 firelighters on top. • Using a long safety match or taper, light the firelighters, then use tongs to pile the charcoal over them to light all the coals. Leave to burn for 20-30 minutes. Alternatively, use a chimney starter – this holds the coals in a vertical stack so they heat up faster – then carefully release into the barbecue when ready (see below). • The coals are ready when they have a light coating of grey ash with a red glow beneath it (see picture). It’s a good idea to arrange the coals…

Warm new potatoes, fried onions, garlic, chive, parsley and blue cheese salad SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN “Freshly dug new potatoes, boiled, buttered and hot, are far and away the most delightful things to eat in June. The trick is to cook them as soon as possible after they come out of the earth. If you can’t grow your own, buy them from a local veg grower or farm shop – they might have been dug in the last day or so, which is perfect (and don’t be afraid to ask).Look for thin-skinned, earth-covered spuds – a bit of dirt can help keep them moist and fresh. When you get them home, wash them well, giving the spuds a gentle scrub to remove stubborn dirt and looser bits of…

I spend a lot of time in New York City and absolutely love visiting the Italian restaurants out there – they serve amazing food while being buzzy and super casual. They inspired me to open our first Italian restaurant Hai Cenato in 2017. When it comes to pizza, the ingredients are the star of the show, so use the best quality and don’t load on too much – the fennel sausage is balanced by the creamy cheese with the herby gremolata cutting through the richness. CHEF-RESTAURATEUR JASON ATHERTON A BIT ABOUT JASON After years working with some of the world’s most famous chefs (Marco Pierre White, Pierre Koffmann and Gordon Ramsay, to name but three), Jason set up his own company and opened his flagship restaurant Pollen Street Social in…

THE BARGAIN WHITE Aldi Organic Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie DOC, Italy (£5.99) A decent summer party white, refreshing and light with lime and apple flavours. Its organic status and stylish bottle appeal too. THE BARGAIN RED BDX Merlot-Cabernet 2017, Bordeaux, France (£9.99, or £6.99 as part of a mixed six until 24 June, Majestic) Amazingly good value offer on this fine young claret. It’s ready to drink now, with ripe, smooth cassis and a spicy hint. Bag it for red meat barbies. THE SUMMER ROSÉ La Dame en Rose 2018, Terre du Midi, France (£6, Marks & Spencer) Brand new, the prettiest of pale pinks with delicate strawberry and raspberry notes and a bone dry, white peppery finish. A wine made for charcuterie or seafood canapés. THE WEEKEND TREAT Errazuriz…

CLOSING DATE: 30 JUNE 2019 We’ve teamed up with Tracklements to give you the chance to win a year’s supply of award-winning condiments – up to £25 worth per month – plus a box of treats including chilli and lemongrass jelly, great for roasts, stir-fries and as a dip. The winner will also receive kitchen goodies including an apron, tea towel and an artisan engraved cheeseboard. Based in the heart of Wiltshire, Tracklements works with British farmers and spice growers from around the world to ensure its range of more than 60 mustards, chutneys, relishes and sauces taste as good as homemade. tracklements.co.uk FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… Make any recipe from this beautiful June issue, take a picture and share it with us via social media or email. APRIL’S…

Chefs, schools and volunteer helpers can all take part in bringing about change. Here’s how… CHEFS ARE NEEDED! To apply for a placement in a school, visit the website (below). HEADTEACHERS If you want your school to get involved in the scheme, you can find and download a variety of practical guides and tools. YOU! If you’re interested in working or volunteering for the scheme or you’d like to make a donation, you can get in contact via the website. Find out more at chefsinschools.org.uk…

OUT: FIZZY DRINKS AND JUICES IN: FRUIT AND HERBAL INFUSIONS When fizzy drinks and juices beckon, infusions are healthier, sugar-free and equally tasty thirst-quenchers. Look for naturally flavoured fruit and herbal teabags or, better still, loose leaves that make punchy infusions, such as dried hibiscus flowers, verbena or mint. Make a teapotful with boiling water, leave to infuse, then strain and cool before chilling. Lovely served over ice. WHY INFUSIONS ARE GOOD FOR YOU Many people struggle to drink enough water during the day because they find plain old H2 O a bit boring. Naturally flavoured sugar-free water is an excellent way to stay hydrated.…

RECIPE: KATY MCCLELLAND. PHOTOGRAPH: CLARE WINFIELD. FOOD STYLING: LUCY O’REILLY. STYLING: WEI TANG Jalapeño, bacon and crispy potato frittata SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, COOKING TIME 40 MIN MAKE AHEAD Roast the potatoes up to 2 days ahead, then cool, cover and chill until needed. FOOD TEAM’S TIP This is a great way to use up leftover roasties. Use jalapeños from a jar, if you prefer, and omit the lime juice. • 650g floury potatoes, such as maris piper, cut into 2-3cm chunks (see Make Ahead and tip) • 3 tbsp light olive oil • 1-3 fresh jalapeño chillies, finely sliced (see tip) • Finely grated zest and juice 1 large lime • 8 large free-range eggs • 4 spring onions, sliced • 4 tbsp flavoured mayonnaise (we used…

RECIPE: BEC DICKINSON. PHOTOGRAPH: CRAIG WALL. STYLING: MICHELLE NOERIANTO Broccoli & butter bean croquettes with tahini dipping sauce MAKES 20-24. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Complete the recipe up to the end of step 4 up to 2 days ahead, then cover and keep in the fridge. Finish the croquettes as in the recipe. FOR THE CROQUETTES • 600g maris piper potatoes, peeled and cut into 3cm chunks • 1 medium broccoli, cut into florets • 400g can butter beans, drained and rinsed • 150g plain flour • ¾ tsp smoked paprika • Finely grated zest 2 lemons • 1 tbsp each chopped fresh mint and flatleaf parsley • 150ml almond milk • 150g fresh breadcrumbs • Sunflower oil for frying • Green salad to serve (optional)…

The name feta is protected by a European PDO (Protected Designation of Origin), which means it can only be produced in Greece. It must be also be made mainly from ewe’s milk with a maximum of 30 per cent goat’s milk (if it’s made from cow’s milk, it isn’t feta) and there are other regulations governing how feta is matured in brine. Variations occur across Greece, often differing between villages, but the cheese isn’t always an artisan product. Some feta is produced in industrial quantities and, although all feta must be brined for at least 60 days, mass-produced ones can be uninspiring. KNOWHOW BARREL-AGED FETA Traditionally, feta was brined in beech barrels, and barrel-ageing is still a mark of quality. Feta matured in the barrel for six months is creamy…

If you’re making the scallops on p30 at your next barbecue, here’s how to prepare them: 1 Check the scallop is alive: the shell should be shut (perhaps not completely) and difficult to prise open. 2 Put the scallop, rounded side down, on a folded cloth on a chopping board, then insert a short, sharp pointed knife (or an oyster knife) between the shells near the hinge [A], twisting to open slightly. Repeat on the other side too. 3 Once the shell is opened slightly, turn the scallop over on the board then, using a flexible filleting knife, press the blade flat against the shell on the bottom [B] and slide it across to cut the muscle and release the scallop. 4 Open the shell fully, then use a spoon…

SCIENCE OF FOOD You don’t have to be a restaurant critic to appreciate the colossal difference between a skillet-seared steak and a paler hunk of beef simmered in a broth. Both may be cooked, but meat that’s been browned (it’s not ‘sealed’, as some say) is imbued with all the savoury, satisfying flavours carnivores love. This browning of food is properly termed the Maillard (pronounced ‘my-ar’) reaction. It’s what turns bread into toast, gives roasted chicken depth of flavour, affords grilled cheese its yummy brown crust and makes crispy fish skin a thing of beauty. This magical transformation is a matter of science. When a protein-containing food is heated to well above boiling point (around 130°C and up), fragments of protein (amino acids) on the surface start to react with…

“My parents made this fermented elderflower drink when I was a child, steeping the frothy, creamy flowers in enamel basins in the garden, and it’s a tradition I’ve revived as an adult. Elderflowers bloom in late May and June and need to be picked early in the morning on a sunny, dry day. This isn’t superstition but chemistry. This recipe, inspired by the one in John Seymour’s The Complete Book of Self-Sufficiency, relies on wild yeasts to carbonate your bubbly, and they’re most abundant in warm, dry conditions. That said, don’t fret about how fizzy your drink will be – there’s inevitable variation from year to year. Sweet, floral and refreshing, this elderflower elixir has traditionally been called ‘elderflower champagne’. It’s obviously completely different from (and not to be compared…

RECIPE: CJ JACKSON. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS.FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR THE SETTING Strange smells, slippery floors, shouty geezers – London’s famous fish market in Docklands is not your typical backdrop for a cookery course. The 1980s building is unlovely but the atmosphere of a working market adds a frisson of excitement, even when you’re turning up bleary-eyed at 6am. DO YOU NEED TO BE GOOD AT COOKING? Though the class isn’t for absolute beginners (there’s a Catch of the Day 1 you can do first), you’re talked through the tricky bits, so even a novice needn’t feel intimidated. GROUP-SIZE, ROOM AND WORKSPACE The school is upstairs from the ground-floor market. Classes have a maximum of 12 students and each workstation is shared by two people. The room…

I visited Ronnie Eunson at his windswept 2,000-acre organic Uradale Farm overlooking the voe (a deep inlet) separating it from Scalloway. “We focus entirely on native breeds of sheep and cattle,” Ronnie says. Native Shetland sheep pre-date the Vikings and are small and tough – but the meat has a superb flavour. “When we started out 14 years ago there was no market for them,” he says, but Ronnie sent some meat to C Lidgate butchers in London – who put it on sale and asked for more (you can buy it online at lidgates.com). It’s a similar story with Shetland Kye cattle; by the 1980s, the breed was endangered. Uradale now farms about 30 of this hearty breed and sells the meat locally. Farming in these northern climes is…

PHOTOGRAPHS: TOBY SCOTT, SUE LACEY PHOTOGRAPHY Could it really be summer? We’ve had a few false starts this year and I hardly dare to hope. The barbecue has been hosed down and buffed (I am that sad person), the pots planted up and the forest of dandelions excised so, for once, all is set for warm days in the Barnes back garden. Meanwhile, on the food front, strawberries, broad beans, peas and gooseberries (to name just a few favourites) are at their British best. It’s a time of plenty – both in nature’s larder and in the general feeling of bonhomie that comes with early summer, and every recipe in this issue celebrates the riches food lovers have come to look forward to so much. It’s all about the produce,…

SUBJECT: The importance of making mistakes FROM: Peter Sadler I enjoyed the heartwarming article from Debora Robertson on making mistakes [May, p23]. She reminds us all how easy it is to overthink an informal evening with friends and family. I’m in my mid-60s and take pride in cooking for any occasion. I too, in my time, have burnt, overcooked, undercooked and hopelessly forgotten about countless soufflés – yet these are the mistakes that our children will one day recall and remember us fondly for as they host their own dinner parties. Thank you so much for the reminder. SUBJECT: Kitchen treasure FROM: Samantha Knuckey It was endearing to read about Tom Aikens’ kitchen treasure, his grandfather’s sugar jar [Apr, p19]. I lovingly thought about my grandparents’ meat platter, used by…

NEW YARD, MAWGAN, CORNWALL newyardrestaurant.co.uk Even your satnav may struggle to find this restaurant, part of the Trelowarren estate on the rugged Lizard Peninsula. THE KITCHEN Head chef Jeffrey Robinson (above right) is a local boy who loves to showcase fantastic Cornish produce. THE SETTING Old farm buildings have been sympathetically but modishly converted to create a welcoming space with courtyard tables for the summer crowds. THE DISHES New Yard sources 90 per cent of its raw materials from within a 15-mile radius and simplicity is the mantra of the open kitchen. Monkfish fresh off the boat that day might be lightly cured and dotted with sea buckthorn caramel and a tangy yogurt dressing, while aged beef is served in a classic tartare with horseradish crème fraîche. THE VERDICT A…

REST EASY I have a bugbear when it comes to dining chairs – inside or out. I can’t stand it when they’re all style over substance… so uncomfortable there’s nothing to entice you to linger which, in my book, is essential to creating good times around the table. So what do you need? Cushions. I’ve fallen in a major way for these beauties by Camilla Thomas with a design inspired by the patterns waves make on the sand as the tide goes out. They’re not cheap, and there’s a reason for that: Camilla weaves the fabric on a hand loom and the crafting is exquisite. Made to last a lifetime. And look at those colours… Wool cushion with feather pad, £80; merino wool throws, £288 (I’m thinking sundowners), emmaandlouise.com THIS…

Last year, chef and food writer Valentina Harris was the delicious. ambassador who oversaw the judging of our Produce Awards. Here’s one of her favourite products that missed out on a gong but is nevertheless excellent : “What a fantastic array of pure colourful joy arrived for our Produce Awards tasting from the Isle of Wight. Every conceivable shape, size and colour of tomato, with distinctive flavours just as gorgeous as their appearance – it was enough to make me want to move to the island immediately. All were exceptional, either cooked or as salad, or eaten on their own like a piece of fruit… Heaven.” Tomatoes from £6 for 1kg or £27.50 for 4kg mixed heritage tomato box, thetomatostall.co.uk…

ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES I don’t have much time for purity for purity’s sake. It feels overwhelmingly bleak. It’s to food what “Well, actually…” is to conversation. It sucks out all the joy. And often it’s a slick form of snobbery too. The person sneering up their sleeve at you for using pancetta instead of guanciale in your carbonara doesn’t care what it tastes like. They’re very excited though that they’ve caught you out in your (to them) lamentable act of ignorance. My advice to you is to move along quickly before they start droning on about their gap year assisting an artisan salumiere in Umbria. Save yourself. But I do like simplicity. It’s so restful. You know where you are. And sometimes, if you’re like me, that’s face-down in a…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: NASSIMA ROTHACKER. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Spicy potato and cauliflower burger MAKES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 20 MIN, PLUS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Prepare and shape the patties and fry the shallots and chilli up to a day ahead. Keep chilled in separate containers until ready to use. KNOWHOW Find tamarind paste in large supermarkets. It has a sharp, tangy flavour and a natural affinity with gently spiced Indian dishes. • Vegetable oil for frying • 2 banana shallots, finely sliced into rounds • 1 green chilli, finely sliced • Cornflour for dusting • 2 tbsp tamarind paste (see Know-how) • 4 burger buns, halved and lightly toasted (check they’re vegan if need be) • 6 tbsp coconut yogurt (we used CoYo…

• Slightly older, larger new potatoes are brilliant for roasting. I like tumbling them with garlic, paprika, rosemary, salt and olive oil beforehand. • New potatoes make a mean curry. Think onions, ginger, garlic, coriander, fenugreek, chilli, coconut milk, spinach and garam masala. • Try rustic new potato gnocchi: boil 500g scrubbed new potatoes, steam dry, then coarsely mash. Mix with 200g plain flour, 100g goat’s cheese and salt. Shape, then gently cook in a pan of simmering water for 1-2 minutes until they rise to the surface. Serve with melted butter and plenty of chopped fresh parsley.…

“Pot-roasting is definitely the way to go with a venison haunch. The slow, moist cooking melts the fat and softens the connective tissue without drying out the meat, leaving you with a juicy, flavoursome roast. We serve the venison with crushed new potatoes. Crushing gives them the glorious crispy edges that they don’t get when roasted whole.”IVAN TISDALL-DOWNES, HEAD CHEF AND CO-FOUNDER OF NATIVE RESTAURANT A BIT ABOUT IVAN AND NATIVE Native restaurant in London’s Southwark is the first venture of founders Ivan Tisdall-Downes and Imogen Davis and aims to put sustainability at the top of the menu. The restaurant specialises in fresh, seasonal British game and produce, much of it wild or foraged and cooked with as little waste as possible. Self-taught chef Ivan earned his sustainability cred during…

ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES Strawberry season is upon us, heralding the start of a fruit-filled summer. Rule of thumb when pairing fruit with wine: make sure it’s sweet. Dry wines will taste thin and tart next to the high natural acidity and sugar of the fruit. For hot puddings such as fruity pies, crumbles and tartes tatins, choose from Bordeaux’s exquisite pudding wines, Hungary’s tokaji and Spain’s great-value moscatel de valencia. The Loire’s sweet chenin blancs such as coteaux du layon and bonnezeaux are also great picks and the best wines for a classic berry-filled summer pudding. Southern French sweet muscats tend to be a bit stronger, and they’re best with richer fruity pies and custard. For fresh fruit, including simple strawberries and cream, aim for the lighter, crisper styles of…

RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. FOOD STYLING: KATY MCCLELLAND. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR Lemon drizzle loaf cake SERVES 10-12. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 50-55MIN MAKE AHEAD The cake will keep well for a couple of days in an airtight container put somewhere cool (not in the fridge). • 200g unsalted butter, softened • 200g golden caster sugar • 4 medium free-range eggs • 200g self-raising flour • Finely grated zest and juice 3 lemons • 150g natural yogurt • 110g granulated sugar YOU’LL ALSO NEED… • 2 litre loaf tin, base and sides lined with non-stick baking paper (or use a loaf-tin liner) 1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4. Using an electric mixer, beat the butter and caster sugar until pale and creamy (about 5 minutes).…

Season’s eatings What’s good for you and at its best right now … ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES CARROTS This salad-drawer stalwart isn’t just the stuff of diets and improving eyesight. Now widely available in gorgeous heirloom varieties and colours, carrots bring crunch, flavour and nutrients to the table. Being full of beta-carotene and vitamin A they can contribute to healthy eyes, and they’re also brimming with fibre, vitamin K and manganese. HOW TO PREPARE Young carrots need no more than washing and scrubbing, though older ones may benefit from peeling. HOW TO COOK THEM Their sweetness makes them versatile: enjoy them raw or cooked in sweet or savoury dishes. Carrots are particularly good tossed in melted butter and olive oil with lots of salt and pepper, then roasted until tender and…

Chorizo and ricotta penne SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN • 300g penne pasta • 200g cooking chorizo, sausages squeezed out of the skins (we used Unearthed, from Waitrose) • 1 small bunch fresh basil • 60g rocket • 175g ricotta • 2 tbsp olive oil 1 Cook the pasta according to the pack instructions. Drain, reserving a ladleful of the cooking liquid. 2 Meanwhile, heat a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Cook the chorizo, breaking it up as you go, for about 5 minutes until golden. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 5 minutes more. 3 Add the drained pasta and a splash of the reserved cooking liquid to the pan with the chorizo, adding a little more liquid if needed to loosen the sauce.…

Polenta fish with roasted peppers & orange SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, COOKING TIME 40 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP This makes enough for 8 servings of the roasted peppers (a take on salmoriglio, the Italian accompaniment). Cover and chill for up to 5 days; try with goat’s cheese on toast. Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Quarter and deseed 3 mixed sweet peppers, put in a large roasting tin and toss with 1 tbsp olive oil and salt, then roast for 25 minutes. Pare the zest from 2 large oranges and add to the tin with the peppers. Roast for 15 minutes more, remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly. Roughly chop the peppers and zest, tip into a large bowl and stir in 2 crushed…

MEET OUR EXPERTS JEN BEDLOE Food editor SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH Deputy food editor OLIVIA SPURRELL Cookery assistant LUCAS HOLLWEG Chef and food writer THANE PRINCE Food writer, cook and queen of preserving THE GAME CHANGER Use aromatic vermouth to add a layer of flavour to griddled king prawns delicious. KITCHEN Our guide will help you get to grips with preparing scallops for the barbecue WEEKEND PROJECT Ready to hit refresh? Create your very own elderflower fizz…

ADD a splash of wine vinegar or cider vinegar and shake the jar to loosen any mustard. Add 2-3 times as much oil as vinegar, a pinch of salt, a bit of crushed garlic, shake again and – voilà – mustard vinaigrette. STIR mayo into the mustard to taste (it’s easier than scraping the mustard into a bowl). Use for ham and cheese sandwiches. MAKE mustard cream sauce – great with cold roast beef. Put a chopped shallot in a small saucepan with a bay leaf, 1 tsp sugar and 4-5 tbsp white wine. Bubble until reduced to about 1-2 tbsp. Tip into a jar with about 1½ tbsp mustard left and shake together. Pour into a bowl with 100ml crème fraîche and stir to combine.…

RECIPE: OLIVIA SPURRELL. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: ALEX LUCK. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE THE RECIPE King prawns with orange and vermouth SERVES 6 AS A NIBBLE. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN • 1 tbsp olive oil • 25g salted butter • 1 orange, cut into 6 wedges • 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced • 18 sustainable king prawns, peeled • Pinch chilli flakes • 75ml dry white vermouth (we used Noilly Prat) • 1 tbsp finely chopped fresh flatleaf parsley 1 Heat the oil and butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the orange wedges and cook for 6-8 minutes until lightly caramelised. Add the garlic, then cook for 2-3 minutes until the garlic is just softening. 2 Add the prawns, cook for 3 minutes, turning halfway through,…

PICKING Elderflowers are easy to identify and pick. Look for sprays with lots of open, clean, white, star-shaped flowers. Trim at the fork in the stem below (the stalks are bitter) and use within a few hours. As with all foraging, pick away from busy roads, where flowers may have been tainted by fumes, and don’t leave any of the elder tree branches too barren as this will prevent them producing berries later in the year. If you’re concerned about confusing elderflower blossom with other white flowers, give it a sniff – elderflower has a distinctive fresh scent, which you’ll recognise easily if you’ve ever had elderflower cordial. MAKE IT YOUR OWN Making elderflower fizz involves controlling the reaction between naturally occurring wild yeasts on the flowers, the sugar the…

HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste experts. We conduct tests without packaging, so tasters don’t know who produced each product or how much it costs. And to prevent testers influencing each other, they’re not allowed to confer, so the results are unbiased. WHAT WE LOOKED FOR This gin-based liqueur is often known by the name of one popular brand. We looked for contenders with a pleasing mix of fruit, citrus and botanicals. Sweetness and bitterness need to be held in balance, with well judged strength. SUPERMARKET WINNER  Tesco Summer Cup, £8 for 70cl, 25% abv Appealing amber colour and easy-drinking, punchy fruitiness. Rounded with a pleasing botanical edge. RUNNER-UP  Asda Summer Cup, £7 for 70cl*, 21.9% abv Citrus at the fore gives a fresh taste but it could be…

Shetland oatcakes are meant to be crumbly. When you try to move them from one place to another, they should crumble between your fingers. (The only place you need move them to is your mouth.) This is achieved through the liberal use of pinhead oats, which give a texture almost like rough sandpaper on your tongue. There’s nothing quite like it. FOOD TEAM’S TIP For more snap in the oatcakes add an extra splash of water and knob of butter in step 1. • 100g salted butter • 225g oatmeal (preferably ‘medium’) • 100g pinhead (steel-cut) oats 1 Heat the oven to 170°C/150°C fan/gas 3½. Put the butter in a saucepan with 100ml water and melt over a low heat (see tip). 2 Put the oats in a large mixing…

Sunshine reading A love affair with all things Gallic – that’s how I’d describe Felicity Cloake’s latest book, One More Croissant For The Road, about a pastry-filled cycling expedition in search of the food we all hope still exists in France. There are recipes too, and every croissant that passes her lips gets a flakiness/butter/flavour rating. Funny, entertaining and informative, this is a book that makes you hungry, both for a good meal and for a visit across the Channel. Mudlark, £14.99…

1 The word ‘avocado’ comes from the name Aztecs gave to the fruit. What did it mean? a) Pear fruit b)Millennial fruit c) Testicle fruit 2 What’s the chemical name for the ‘bad egg’ smell? 3 How many tentacles do squid have? a) 2 b) 8 c) 10 4 Which country is the biggest supplier of cocoa? 5 Which country is the biggest exporter of chocolate? a) Switzerland b) US c) Germany 6 What percentage of UK restaurants fail in their first year? a) 10% b) 25% c) 50% 7 How many millions of bubbles are there in a bottle of champagne? 8 What sweet did Forrest Mars and Bruce Murrie team up to create? 9 The modern (US) name for this beef cut is ‘shortribs’, what’s the traditional UK…

Buttermilk strawberry shortcake RECIPE: JULIA PLATT LEONARD. PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS. FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE “I was given this recipe by my favourite Tennessee gal, food writer Julia Platt Leonard. She says the key to light ‘biscuits’ or shortcakes is to avoid overworking the dough.” SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, OVEN TIME 10-12 MIN FOR THE STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM • 200g ripe strawberries, hulled, sliced or quartered if large • 1 tbsp caster sugar • 120ml chilled double cream FOR THE SHORTCAKES • 125g plain flour, plus extra to dust • 1½ tsp baking powder • 2 tbsp caster sugar • ⅛ tsp fine sea salt • 60g cold unsalted butter, cubed, plus extra to grease • 1 medium free-range egg, beaten • 2 tbsp buttermilk (or…

Scallops with garlic, chilli and anchovy butter SERVES 6 AS A STARTER. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, PLUS CHILLING “I look for any excuse to light the coals and barbecue. At the slightest glimpse of sun, I’m out there (and the rosé is flowing, naturally). There’s always space on the grill for burgers and sausages, but this summer I’m after something different. Dishes like flame-baked cauliflower kebabs, a spicy miso aubergine sharing platter and griddled nectarine and praline sundaes will surprise and delight guests. And I promise you there isn’t a sad, limp salad in sight.”SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR MAKE AHEAD Make the butter up to 3 days ahead and keep wrapped and chilled. Ask your fishmonger to open, clean and separate the scallops from their shells (see delicious. Kitchen).…

“While I love the fresh spring days of May, it’s June I get most excited about. In the past few years it’s felt like peak summer, with the added bonus of the longest days of the year. Cue lots of socialising and eating outside. If I’m just at home, I’ll drag furniture and cushions into the garden – everything tastes so much better under a blanket of sunshine. Eating outside and barbecuing is great fun, but there’s something extra-special about an away-from-home picnic.It takes a bit of planning, but that makes it feel like an event – there’s a real sense of occasion. It might seem daft, but when I was small I’d wait all year for picnics in the park and I dreamed of owning one of those Sixties-style…

“There are six deer species in the UK: red, roe, fallow, sika, Chinese water deer and muntjac. Red and roe deer are the only two indigenous to the UK. Wild venison is available year-round in the UK. The buck shooting season for red and fallow deer runs from August to April. Roe deer season runs from April to October so the year is pretty much covered (and muntjac has no close season). If your butcher doesn’t stock venison, I recommend buying from southdownsvenison.co.uk.”…

Watermelon, berry and white chocolate pavlova SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME 1½ HOURS, PLUS 4-5 HOURS COOLING AND FREEZING MAKE AHEAD Make the meringue up to a day in advance. Keep in an airtight container somewhere cool. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Brushing the inside of the meringue with melted white chocolate gives extra flavour and creates a barrier between the wet cream and the meringue, which allows the pavlova to stand for longer. • 6 large free-range egg whites • 330g caster sugar • ½ tsp cream of tartar • 1 tsp white wine vinegar • 1 tbsp cornflour • 100g white chocolate, melted FOR THE WATERMELON AND BERRY TOPPING • 250g strawberries, hulled • 200g raspberries • 1 tbsp icing sugar • Juice 1 lemon • 180g…

PHOTOGRAPHS ISSY CROKERILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES. THOMASINA MIERS PORTRAIT: CAROLINE IRBY.NICOLE PISANI PORTRAIT: HARRIET CLARE Ginger peas. Sweet potato with tahini. Chicken marinated in soy. If these dishes sound familiar, you might have eaten them at Yotam Ottolenghi’s restaurant Nopi in London’s Soho. Or perhaps you’ve had them at Gayhurst Primary School in Hackney, east London. That’s because, for the past three years, former Nopi head chef Nicole Pisani has been in charge of the school kitchen, serving up Middle Eastern-inspired classics to 500 children aged under 11. The cost to the pupils? £1.75 per head. “We always joke that when the kids grow up and go to Nopi, they’re going to recognise the dishes and wonder why they’re now paying £20 for them!” Nicole says, sitting in her chef’s apron…

More of us are consuming our meals in liquid form than ever before. According to Mintel, the number of Americans using meal replacement drinks more than doubled between 2012 and 2016, and worldwide growth is expected to continue. Meal replacement shakes have been on the market for decades, but a new breed of products has emerged from the hyper-competitive, long-hours environments of Silicon Valley and similar international tech hubs. Both Soylent from the US and British brand Huel market themselves as providing ‘efficient, streamlined nutrition’ designed to appeal to time-poor workers who are stuck at their desks working through another lunch break. In a sense, drinkable meals aren’t dissimilar to having meal kits delivered to your door. Both claim to provide you with a nutritionally balanced meal with the added…

RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: CLARE WINFIELD. FOOD STYLING: LUCY O’REILLY. STYLING: WEI TANG Vietnamese chicken salad SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 15 MIN, PLUS COOLING MAKE AHEAD Poach the chicken up to 2 days ahead and refrigerate in an airtight container. FOOD TEAM’S TIP for Strain the leftover poaching stock (discard the solids), then cover and chill. Use soup or noodles. • 500g free-range skinless boneless chicken thighs • 20g fresh Thai basil, leaves picked and stalks reserved • 20g fresh coriander, leaves picked and stalks reserved • 20g fresh mint, leaves picked and stalks reserved • 2 fat garlic cloves • Vegetable oil for frying • 2 banana shallots, halved and finely sliced • 1-2 red chillies (depending on how hot you like it), finely chopped…

MEET ELLY Food writer Elly Curshen is known for her innovative meat-free recipes that combine world flavours with local ingredients. Nicknamed Elly Pear after The Pear Café in Bristol that she ran between 2006 and 2018, Elly has appeared on Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch and BBC Radio 4’s Woman’s Hour. This is her third cookbook. “My approach to cooking revolves around simple concepts: deliciousness, joy, texture, savour, ease and satisfaction. There might not be any meat in these recipes, but I can guarantee you’ll find all of the above. Whether you’re vegan or veggie or simply trying to reduce the amount of meat you eat, I’m here to help.So let’s get going. Apron on. Chopping board out. Sharpened knife in hand. Let’s fill our plates and lunchboxes full of delicious…

When the delicious. team test recipes they often debate the best new ways to do things as well as answering questions that arise in the test kitchen. Is venison available all year round? What’s so special about Greek feta? Which combinations of fruit and nuts give the most flavour impact to dishes? Can you use a loaf tin instead of a round cake tin? It’s the kind of information you won’t find anywhere else and it can help take your skills and knowledge to the next level…

By fluke we discovered this lazy method for making meringue on our Always a Winner shoot, p62. In haste, we added all the sugar straight into the egg whites. Instead of wasting the mixture and starting again with the classic method (where sugar is added to beaten egg whites 1 tbsp at a time), we gently whisked the sugar and egg mixture on a slow speed until the sugar had fully dissolved (that’s the key – if you rub the mixture between your fingers it should feel completely smooth, not gritty). Then, increasing the speed, we continued to whisk until the mixture was stiff and glossy. It worked a treat – but you need an electric hand mixer or stand mixer.…

1 STRAWBERRIES & WALNUTS Halve ripe strawberries and roughly cut the same amount of tomatoes into chunks. Toss together with crumbled walnuts, watercress or rocket, basil leaves, a little crushed garlic and a sweet balsamic dressing. Dollop with soft, rindless goat’s cheese. 2 PEACHES & HAZELNUTS Slice or tear ripe peaches into quarters and toss in a bowl with some roughly chopped toasted hazelnuts, fresh mint, watercress, steamed (and cooled) green beans and a little finely sliced red onion. Dress with lemon juice sweetened with honey, then add salt and pepper and a drizzle of olive oil. 3 RAISINS & PINE NUTS In a pan, cook sliced red onion and chopped garlic in plenty of olive oil with a few stems of rainbow chard cut into 5cm lengths (tear off…

This unassuming fish is one of the most commonly farmed types of seafood globally. It’s long been on the menu in Africa, Asia and South America, but the fish is growing in popularity here and in the US, too. SUSTAINABILITY Adaptable and hardy, with around 100 different hybrids in the ‘tribe’, tilapia thrive mainly in fresh (sometimes brackish) warm waters. They’re native to Africa and the Middle East and several pure species are found in Israel in the Sea of Galilee (where they’re known as St Peter’s fish), but they’re also farmed in China, North America, Ecuador and Taiwan. As well as being robust and relatively easy to farm, tilapia are an omnivorous species, so they can thrive on a diet of protein and plants – most importantly, they grow…

DEGLAZE a hot pan after frying meat or fish using a small glass of vermouth and a knob of butter to create a quick pan sauce. FRY 200g chopped mixed mushrooms in a knob of butter. Add a crushed garlic clove, a splash of vermouth and a spoonful of crème fraîche. Serve on hot buttered toast. SPLASH a few good spoonfuls of vermouth over a tray of roasting chicken legs, interspersed with orange slices, olives and almonds. SOAK 4 halved, stoned peaches in 100ml vermouth and 100ml water for 2 hours. Remove the peaches, then grill until charred and bubble the liquid with 2 tbsp honey and 20g butter to reduce until syrupy. 50ml vermouth with WHISK the juice of 1 lemon, 2 tsp dijon mustard, 1 crushed garlic clove,…

The bottles you use need to be able to withstand the pressure from the carbon dioxide produced by fermentation. Two-litre plastic drinks bottles work well as they have a tight screw cap and are less dangerous in the event of an explosion than glass. Wash bottles in hot, soapy water and rinse well before using. If you notice a bottle has become taut, ‘burp’ it by letting out some of the gas. The drink will ferment until it’s put in the fridge. When the fizz is ready, decant it into pretty glass bottles to serve, if you like. If using glass bottles throughout, only use cylindrical, fermentation grade ones (from wilko.com) and sterilise first (see delicious magazine.co.uk/how-to-sterilise-jars).…

CALIFORNIA: LIVING + EATING The freedom and daring of the food conjured up by cooks in the Golden State is the inspiration behind Eleanor Maidment’s debut cookbook. Recipes show off the glorious intermingling of flavours from Europe, Asia, the Middle East, Mexico and the rest of Latin America that define California cuisine. Hardie Grant £22 SAFFRON IN THE SOUKS: VIBRANT RECIPES FROM THE HEART OF LEBANON Author John Gregory-Smith is a chef with big-time wanderlust and his latest book delves into the complex cooking culture of tiny Lebanon. Colourful dishes include Lebanese classics as well as recipes gleaned from cooks from the country’s Armenian, Syrian and Druze communities. Kyle Books £25 SARDINE: SIMPLE, SEASONAL SOUTHERN FRENCH COOKING If you’ve forgotten how brilliant Provençal cooking can be, this collection of seasonal,…

Shetland has a stark beauty. One moment the sheep-dotted, heathery hills glow purple in sunshine, blue skies are reflected in an Aegean-hued sea and curving sandy beaches beckon. The next, it’s Scandi Noir-grey and blowing a gale that threatens to blow the bloody doors off. Place names have an old Norse ring – Beosetter, Skeld, Tresta. The Vikings settled here around 800AD, and their rule didn’t end until 1468 (Shetland only became part of Scotland in 1471). Shetlanders are intensely proud of their Viking heritage – visit in January and you’ll witness the incendiary madness of Up Helly Aa, the annual fire festival that marks the end of Yule. Or come for what Shetlanders call the ‘simmer dim’, from mid-May to mid-July when daylight seems to last forever – a…

It’s World Meat Free Week this month. Which means I’m likely to see a version of the following refrain on social media more often than normal: “You eat meat? How can you? It’s destroying the planet!” First of all, yes I do. Secondly, no it’s not. Or, rather, there’s way more to it than that. The default vegan propaganda seems to say: all meat is evil, while all vegetables are grown in Utopia and fertilised with unicorn ploppies (I paraphrase slightly). Even respected medical journal The Lancet published a ‘planetary health diet’ in January this year, which promoted an omnivorous but heavily grain and plant-based diet, with pulses and nuts providing protein. The diet allowed no more than two eggs a week and the equivalent of around 7g beef per…