Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2019 i Delicious UK

PHOTOGRAPHS: TARA FISHER, SUE LACEY PHOTOGRAPHY In one of my first jobs I worked for someone who described food as her means of staying alive, nothing more. She’d explain how she derived no pleasure from eating, as she smoked a cigarette and nibbled Hula Hoops from her fingers where she wore them as rings. In between crunches, she’d blow smoke towards anyone who came within a foot of her. I was nonplussed as I came from a family where food was central to life: all important conversations, such as they  were, happened at the table – or on cliff walks (me grumbling). But now I look back on those Hula Hoop days I realise, of course, there was probably a lot more going on. Our features this month emphasise just…

SUBJECT: Inspired to avoid the chains FROM: Barbara Trevitt Katy has caused me to stop and think about the dining choices I make. My favourite local Italian bistro closed a couple of years ago. The food was fresh and the service always friendly. In its stead, I’ve taken to visiting the chain restaurant on the high street. The food is standard across all branches, as is the menu – no special of the day to look forward to. Katy’s article has inspired me to search for another independent trattoria. It may take a little effort to find, but I feel I owe it to smaller enterprises to support them and, where I find excellence, to give it my regular custom. SUBJECT: Survival of the fittest? FROM: Carol Shea Katy’s piece…

In association with The Good Food Guide THE SMALL HOLDING  thesmallholding.restaurant It’s in the heart of the Kent countryside, near Sissinghurst Castle and one of the UK’s finest gardens for an after-lunch walk. Chef-owner Will Devlin (right) is a fan of farm-fresh ingredients and classical techniques. THE SETTING The former pub still operates as a no-frills watering hole, but the emphasis is on the culinary – as the large kitchen garden, complete with roaming Berkshire pigs, suggests. THE FOOD There’s no choice on the six-course ‘Half Acre’ or nine-course ‘Full Acre’ tasting menu, but simple, ingredient-led dishes are fiercely seasonal: asparagus served with a delicate mousse and pickled stems, perhaps. Standouts are the local pork – served as a cube of fatty belly, a tiny, offaly faggot, homemade blood pudding…

Restaurateur James Ramsden, our trend-spotter at large, finds a particular Italian cheese is cropping up everywhere in the capital I struggle to remember a time when there wasn’t a burrata-based dish on every menu in London. Its versatility and popularity means it’s something of a no-brainer. Burrata looks like mozzarella and eats like pudding. It is in fact mozzarella stuffed with another cheese – stracciatella – and cream, making for something outrageously rich and velvety. As with rats (albeit tastier), you are never more than three metres from burrata in London. My favourites range from the simplicity of Padella’s (padella.co) offering, served in a puddle of olive oil with a pinch of sea salt and a twist of black pepper, to the more expressive, seasonal offerings at Lardo (lardo.co.uk) in…

THE MAKING OF CAKE BOY At the age of five I said “I’m going to be a patissier.” When I was 10, I dragged my mum to the most expensive patisserie in town and said that was where I wanted to be an apprentice. I started there when I was 18. I then did my National Service in the French Navy, sailing around the world. It was an eye-opener – I’d never seen cocoa pods and papayas on trees. I already had high standards, but I was working for the captain, representing France abroad. Now when someone says, “I want the moon to explode in front of me,” I say, “No problem!” LONDON CALLING I arrived in London in 1989 and worked in high-end places but the food wasn’t what…

Last year, chef and food writer Valentina Harris was the delicious. ambassador who oversaw the judging of our Produce Awards. Here’s one of her favourite products that narrowly missed out on a gong “I have a special place in my heart for this vinegar, made in an old nuclear bunker in Cornwall with care, love and time, giving it qualities to make it soar above any other malt vinegar I’ve tasted. Its distinctive malty flavour balances the acidity so well, making it a special addition to your ingredient repertoire. I’ve even discovered a splash makes my meringues taste astonishing.” £2.50 for 250ml; artisanmaltvinegar.co.uk…

Limoncello and blueberry scones MAKES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, OVEN TIME 12-15 MIN MAKE AHEAD Scones are best on the day they’re made, but they freeze well. Cool, then freeze in bags for up to 1 month. Defrost, then warm in the oven just before serving to freshen them up. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Be sure not to overwork the dough. And don’t twist the cutter when you stamp out the scones or they won’t rise evenly as they bake. • 225g self-raising flour, plus extra to dust • Finely grated zest 1 lemon • 50g unsalted butter, cubed • 2 tbsp caster sugar • 110ml whole milk • 300ml extra-thick double cream • 2 tbsp limoncello • 2 tbsp lemon curd • Fresh blueberries to serve YOU’LL ALSO NEED……

“Once its short season begins, British asparagus is never far from my plate. I serve it simply, dressed with no more than a slick of salted butter and a squeeze of lemon juice, or paired with freshly dressed crab and a sprinkle of chilli spice. Here I’ve showcased the grassy green shoots in two contrasting recipes: first, I’ve tossed the tender spears in a crisp tempura batter studded with sesame seeds and served them with a simple miso mayo for a punchy umami hit. Next, an asparagus salad that takes its lead from classic flavours – creamy roasted new potatoes with a spicy English mustard dressing, salty ham hock and a sprinkle of fresh mint leaves.” SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR Black sesame tempura asparagus with miso mayo ASPARAGUS SUPPLIED…

• Gooseberries can be whizzed into a fresh, early summer gazpacho. I include young courgettes, almonds soaked overnight in water, apple, fresh mint, lemon juice, garlic and salt. • Try using ripe gooseberries in place of tomatoes. They’re similarly sweet-acidic and work well in salsa, tabbouleh, ketchup and chutney. • Gooseberries make a wonderful sorbet. It’s important to get the balance between sharp and sweet just right, in order to preserve the charm of the fruit’s tart flavour.…

“My gran, Joan, was a terrific cook, not least for her excellent pastry skills and her knack of turning everyday ingredients into something quite magical. She was a huge inspiration when I was a boy and I liked nothing more than to spend afternoons watching her cook. Her skills were passed on to my mum, Rose, who indulged my love of baking when I was a boy and let me loose in her kitchen. Had I not become a maths teacher, I’d almost certainly have been a baker.This decades-old recipe, handed down from my gran, is a twist on the sausage roll and it remains one of my favourite bakes. There’s barely a family gathering when I won’t make up a large batch. It was my gran’s original recipe but…

Albóndigas in almond and sherry vinegar sauce “I’ve long been intrigued by the spices, ingredients and flavours the Moors brought with them from North Africa, and the exotic, full flavoured and vibrant cuisines that resulted. The Moors’ influence on art, architecture, religion and food was profound, and my book explores how that influence lives on in the cuisines of Andalucía, Sicily and Portugal. Spices such as cumin, cardamom, saffron, coriander and ginger, and fruit such as apricots, raisins, oranges and pomegranates along with almonds, aubergines and peppers (all brought by the Moors) were absorbed into local food cultures, creating exotic dishes with a sun-soaked taste. I hope you enjoy them.” BEN TISH SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 10 MIN, PLUS 1 HOUR CHILLING MAKE AHEAD “Albóndigas is…

Born in Anglesey in Wales, Tomos spent weekends working in a local restaurant before studying politics and history at Cardiff University. After moving to London at 25, he began his chef career at The River Café before going on to Kitty Fisher’s in Mayfair. In 2014, Tomos won Chef of the Year at the Young British Foodie Awards and he was named Newcomer Chef of the Year at the 2015 London Restaurant Festival. In March 2018, Tomos opened his first restaurant, the Michelin-starred Brat, in Shoreditch. He is known for combining seasonal British ingredients with techniques from the Basque region, cooking over an open wood grill.…

• The blue mould doesn’t just affect flavour and colour. It also speeds up the breakdown of fats and proteins, giving the cheese a creamy texture. • There are two main types of mould used to create the veins in blue cheese: Penicillium roqueforti and Penicillium glaucum. The latter imparts a gentler, sweeter flavour than the stronger P roqueforti. • Roquefort is aged in caves near the town of the same name. The caves have the perfect conditions for the Penicillium roqueforti bacteria to grow. The cheesemakers traditionally used mould grown on bread left in the caves to inoculate the curds. • Many blue cheeses are pierced with stainless-steel needles to open up air channels so the cheese can develop its characteristic blue veins.…

• We source our milk from farms in the region. It keeps food miles down, guarantees provenance and puts money into the community. • We’re trying to create links with other businesses in the area: we wash our banagher bold cheese in ale from a local brewery. • We put on visits and information days for everyone from all ages of schoolchildren to trainee chefs, and give talks to the community. • We sponsor a youth team of the local Gaelic Athletic Association. Our banagher bold is wrapped in the colours of the team strip.…

• ½ hispi cabbage or ⅓ savoy cabbage, shredded and lightly steamed or blanched in the miso stock • 300g beansprouts, rinsed and refreshed in cold water • Kimchi (we like Kim Kong Kimchi, available at amazon. co.uk and planetorganic.com) • A few handfuls of fresh coriander • Seasoned nori sheets (seaweed) available in larger supermarkets • Sesame seeds • Dried chilli flakes • Sriracha chilli sauce (we used Flying Goose, available from most supermarkets) • Peeled soft-boiled eggs, halved…

Season’s eating What’s at its best right now – and good for you too ASPARAGUS The star of the spring table has such a distinct and wonderful flavour it deserves to be gobbled throughout its brief season. The elegant green spears are also nutritious, rich in fibre, and brimming with vitamins A and C, as well as iron and calcium. HOW TO COOK IT Asparagus is a delicacy requiring nothing more than blanching, steaming or griddling for a few minutes until just tender, then coating in melted butter. Or dress the spears with hollandaise sauce or mayo, adding poached eggs, grated parmesan cheese or lemon juice. THE PREP Trim the woody ends or snap them off at their natural breaking point. If the base is very thick, remove the outer…

Zesty lime, coriander and coconut chicken curry SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP This is a mild curry that’s light, aromatic in flavour and only uses one chilli, so it’s great for people who don’t like overly spicy food. • 1 tbsp vegetable oil • 8 free-range chicken thighs, preferably on the bone and skin-on • 1 large onion, halved and finely sliced • 2 tsp cumin seeds • 250g basmati rice • 100g watercress • 50g bunch fresh coriander • 1 green chilli, deseeded and chopped • Pared zest and juice 2 limes • 400ml tin light coconut milk • 8-10 dried curry leaves (from the spice section of large supermarkets) 1 Heat the oil in a shallow casserole with a lid over a medium heat,…

The master recipe Fragrant curry sauce MAKES ABOUT 1.3 LITRES (6 SERVINGS). HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Store the finished sauce in clean jars or airtight containers in the fridge for up to 4 days. Or follow the freezing instructions in the box, opposite. KNOWHOW Galangal is related to ginger and widely used in Thai food. Find galangal paste at Waitrose, Sainsbury’s or ocado.com. Tamarind paste is used in many Asian cuisines. It has a pleasantly tangy flavour. If you can’t find it, use the juice of ½-1 lime instead. • 1 tbsp vegetable oil • 5 shallots, roughly chopped • 5 garlic cloves, roughly chopped • 2 tbsp freshly grated ginger • 1½ tbsp curry powder • 3 red chillies, roughly chopped (deseeded, if…

Spicy salmon and aubergine curry SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN KNOWHOW Gochujang is a glorious Korean fermented chilli paste that brings heat and complexity to dishes. Find it in the world food aisle of large supermarkets and at souschef.co.uk. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large frying pan and add 1 sliced aubergine. Fry for 6-8 minutes until golden. Add 1 chopped onion and cook for 6-8 minutes until soft. Stir in 3 tbsp gochujang (see Know-how) and 2 crushed garlic cloves and cook for 2 minutes. Pour in 200ml coconut milk and 200ml veg stock, bring to the boil, then simmer for 3-4 minutes to thicken. Gently add 2 sustainable skinless salmon fillets and simmer for 3 minutes, then turn over and cook for 3 minutes more. Sprinkle…

Vibrant Malay salad SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN Bursting with incredible colours inspired by Malaysian cuisine, this salad is a celebration of how the healthiest eating can be vibrant and exciting. Don’t be put off by the long list of ingredients – it’s actually quick to make and you can find all the components in most supermarkets. Fresh herbs are concentrated sources of polyphenols known to fight inflammation and they’re a perfect balance for the heat and citrus in this delicious recipe. I’m passionate to communicate that food and lifestyle are the best methods of boosting health. Natural whole foods are the most advanced ‘drugs’ you could ever imagine, and what we eat has an impact on every bodily system. The principles of a healthy diet are simple: eat…

THE BROTH There are four main types. Three are based on the tare (seasoning) used to add salty depth to the broth. These are shio (salt-based), shoyu (soy sauce-based) and miso (based on soy bean paste). These usually have flavourings such as garlic, mirin, dashi (seaweed stock), sake, mushrooms, ginger and other spices. The fourth type is tonkotsu, a broth made from pork bones. There are also variations in the base stock ingredients, consistency and clarity. Rich, opaque stocks, often made from long-boiled pork or beef bones, are known as kotteri (rich). Light, clear stocks, made from fish or shellfish, vegetables, seaweed or bones simmered for a shorter time, are known as assari (light). Then there are stocks made from chicken bones, known by their Chinese name, paitan. THE NOODLES…

WHAT DOES THE TERM MEAN? Blind baking is the process of partially or fully baking the pastry case for a tart or quiche before the filling is added. WHAT’S THE POINT? With tarts that are to be cooked further afterwards, blind baking allows the pastry to set and part-cook beforehand. This is particularly important with moist fillings (such as custard tart and quiche mixtures), which have the potential to make the pastry damp (the dreaded soggy bottom à la Mary Berry) and stop it cooking properly. It’s also essential if the filling won’t subsequently be cooked (crème pâtissière and fresh berries, for instance). HOW DO I DO IT? Line the uncooked pastry case completely with non-stick baking paper or foil, then fill with ceramic baking beans, dried beans or uncooked…

Use butter instead of lard in the bao dough to make these vegetarian, then fill with crispy fried mushrooms and tofu. The bao dough is quite stiff and shaping is a skill to master so don’t be scared to roll out the dough balls slightly before shaping (step 10). Don’t discard the brisket cooking liquid. Transfer it to an airtight container to chill. Skim off any fat, then reheat until piping hot (add hot water to taste) for a stock to serve with noodles. Serve your bao on warmed plates to help stop the buns from sticking.…

FIRE ISLANDS: RECIPES FROM INDONESIA Indonesian food hasn’t conquered British palates in the way that Thai has, but this lovingly researched book from Eleanor Ford may have you hankering after a trip to Bali or Java. Or, failing that, venturing into the kitchen with an armful of spices. Murdoch Books £25; out 2 May THE JOYFUL HOME COOK The third food book from Rosie Birkett ticks all the on-trend boxes, from cooking home-grown veg and minimising food waste to fermenting and preserving – but the clinchers are the gorgeous recipes made for feasting and sharing, and Helen Cathcart’s beautiful photos. HarperCollins £20; out 2 May THE DIABETES WEIGHT-LOSS COOKBOOK Restaurateurs Katie and Giancarlo Caldesi are known for their gutsy Italian food so this low-carb book, triggered by Giancarlo’s type-2 diabetes…

• Cugó Gran Macina Grand Harbour, Malta (above) Located in Senglea, with views across the harbour to Valletta (a five-minute ferry ride), this relative newcomer significantly upped Malta’s luxury boutique hotel game. An imaginative conversion of a building dating from 1554, it has 21 enormous suites, some with views over the marina. There’s a rooftop pool and a cracking restaurant, Hammett’s Macina. Doubles from €159; cugogranmalta.com • Quaint Hotel Nadur, Gozo Part of a small collection of boutique hotels, this sits high on a hill above some of the island’s best beaches. Twelve individually designed rooms are more minimal contemporary than quaint. Doubles from €80; quainthotelsgozo.com. HOW TO GET THERE Flights to Malta from Gatwick start at £104 (ba.com) and take about 2½ hours.…

Is it just me, or are easy peelers taking over the world? Where once the shelves were full of clementines and tangerines, satsumas and minneolas, now my local supermarket displays no fewer than six permutations, including organic and miniature, of a variety hitherto unknown to me: the boring and uniquely unappetising sounding ‘easy peeler’. PHOTOGRAPH: A J LEVY. ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES Until fairly recently, easy peeler was a trade term for the whole mandarin family. Now, I suspect, it’s adopted more widely to allow supermarkets to choose whatever variety is cheapest at the time, without changing the packaging. That would be fine if it was equally easy to know what variety was inside; I happen to like the tartness of a tangerine and I don’t want to find myself with…

MAKES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN Cook 125g fresh or frozen peas in boiling water for 4 minutes until just tender. Drain, run under cold water to cool, then drain again. Slice a small baguette into 8, put on a baking sheet, drizzle with a little olive oil and toss to coat. Grill for 2 minutes on each side, then set aside to cool. In a small bowl mash the cooled peas with the back of a fork, then mix in 50g white crabmeat, ½ tsp chopped fresh tarragon, the grated zest and juice of ½ lemon and some black pepper. Add salt, plus more pepper and lemon juice to taste. In another bowl mix 50g brown crabmeat with 4-5 tbsp crème fraîche. Spread over each toast, then top with…

AND THE WINNERS ARE... For the first time the judging panel of the Jane Grigson Trust Award has given the prize to not one but two of the shortlisted authors: Elly McCausland and Dan Saladino. The annual Award is made to a first-time writer of a food or drink book that’s been commissioned but hasn’t yet been published. Food blogger and literature lecturer Elly’s The Botanical Kitchen, which explores our love affair with all things plant-related, will be published by Absolute Press in March 2020. Radio journalist Dan’s The Ark of Taste, which celebrates the world’s most endangered foods, is to be published by Jonathan Cape in spring 2020. The runner-up was Selina Periampillai for her book The Island Kitchen, on the cuisines of the Indian Ocean (see p129). For…

PHOTOGRAPHS: JOANN PAI, SEVERIEN VITS, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES THE PIONEER Danielle Coombs, chef, supper club host and founder of Bristol Jam Plan THE MISSION Bristol Jam Plan is a volunteer-led project that reuses surplus produce to make preserves and distributes them to homeless shelters. Jars are also sold to the public to raise money for drug rehab, environmental and homelessness charities based in the South West. Since the project started in 2017, Danielle has donated more than 400 jars around the city and raised over £4,000. WHAT DOES BRISTOL JAM PLAN DO? Danielle has a core group of volunteers on hand to react when items come in: local supermarkets message her about surplus fruit and vegetables, which then become the star ingredients – think mushroom ketchup, red pepper relish or piccalilli.…

1 Which two of these are not botanically true nuts? a) Cashews b) Peanuts c) Beech nuts d) Pecans 2 What’s the minimum ABV strength an alcoholic drink needs to be if it’s being used to flambé food? 3 The largest barrel in the world was the Great Tun of Heidelberg (1751). How much wine could it hold? a) 50,000 litres b)100,000 litres c) 200,000 litres 4 Which of these highly prized liquids requires longer ageing: Scotch whisky or traditionally made balsamic vinegar? 5 What did Nell Gwynne supposedly once use to see off a rival for King Charles II’s affections? a) Laxative b)Bag of fresh oranges c) Spaniel puppy 6 Which has the highest percentage of fat: the human brain, double cream or walnuts? 7 What colour is a…

MUGGING UP I’ve been spotting Nkuku homeware for a while now in those strictly non-chain shops you tend to find tucked away in market towns, but they have their own store in Totnes, Devon, and you can buy it all online, too. Top of my list to look out for are the Indigo Drop mugs, handmade in Vietnam. They’re squat yet elegant and just the right size, but the whole chinaware range is gorgeous. Visit their website – but not if you suspect you might be in un-reined-in spending mode. ‘Drop’ china, from £12.95 for a short mug (bottom left), nkuku.com GIN OF THE MONTH My new tipple is Scottish Maritime Lind & Lime gin from the excellent Port of Leith distillery. The gin is powerful stuff (44% abv), and…

YOG-GREAT There are many good things to say about Tims Dairy greek-style live yogurts. They’re creamy, made from British milk and some money from each sale goes to homelessness charity Depaul UK. The flavours are fun, too: mango & on-trend turmeric, rhubarb & rose (team favourite) and chocolate & orange marmalade. £1 for 150g, Ocado LOVE IT OR HATE IT? Apparently spreading a mix of peanut butter and Marmite on toast is a thing – who knew? This new hybrid is crunchy (tick) and an enticing mix of savoury and darkly toasty. It’s divided opinion in the office but I reckon 70% are in favour. Worth a try – and it contains no palm oil or added sugar. £2.50 for 225g, Ocado & Sainsbury’s; more retailers to follow soon FREEZER…

KAREN BARNES, EDITOR “Back in the (long gone) days when I used to set myself impossible challenges if a big group of people came round for dinner, I attempted to make a hot chocolate and rum soufflé for pudding. Was I mad? Clearly yes. I was going to attempt it with eight people sitting around the table in our open-plan kitchen. I melted the chocolate, then added the rum and the chocolate immediately seized into a tight, impossible ball. No one noticed, so I started again with new ingredients – and exactly the same thing happened. By now, time was of the essence and I had no more chocolate, so I thought quickly and guessed at a way of saving it: chucked it all in a pan, added some double…

“Camping evokes childhood memories of Enid Blyton-style dens in the back garden, of being surrounded by pals at school camp or on holiday with friends – there’s a freedom to being under canvas, and eating also tends to be less formal but more pleasurable. With the help of my two little campers I’ve pulled together dishes ideal for outdoor feasting, from crowd-pleasing one-pots to laid-back breakfasts that will keep everyone well fuelled for a day of merriment” JEN BEDLOE, FOOD EDITOR ‘Jam jar’ pancakes with berries and crumbled flapjacks MAKES 10-12 PANCAKES. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, OVEN TIME 20-25 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the flapjacks 1-2 days before the big day. Once they have cooled, pack in an airtight container. Take some with you to eat as they are –…

Sweet, crisp asparagus is at its finest from May until the end of June. Choose firm spears, avoiding any with wrinkled or dry areas (dryness indicates the spears haven’t been freshly harvested). For maximum sweetness eat as soon as possible after buying. Store for up to two days in the fridge wrapped in a damp cloth or kitchen towel, or put the asparagus spears upright in a glass or jug with a little water at the bottom. If you’re lucky enough to find wild asparagus, it needs nothing more than a quick blanch in boiling water, then drain and toss it in salted butter for the best simple starter.…

Slow-roasted tomato strapatsada with feta “Here are four of my favourite brunch recipes – two savoury and two sweet, so there’s something for everyone. For me brunch will always include eggs, and this is one of my favourite ways to cook them. Strapatsada is traditional Greek-style scrambled eggs with tomatoes. For my version, I slow-roast the tomatoes for added sweetness, which is glorious. Cured salmon is another favourite in my house because the hard work is done in advance. The pastrami flavours will have you feeling like you’re feasting in a New York deli.For the sweet stuff, I’ve created a tarte tatin inspired by two much-loved breakfast favourites – the good ol’ almond croissant and an apricot danish. You may not see apricots in shops until late May or early…

As I sit at my desk writing this, a saucepan of lentil soup – lunch for today and tomorrow – simmers on the hob. Later this afternoon, when my work is done, I’ll treat myself to a banana cake – making one, that is. I’ve been saving and freezing overripe bananas until I have enough. Neither of those activities may strike you – as someone who reads a food magazine – as remarkable. They may well be the stuff of your everyday life. But for me they represent the culmination of a lifetime of ambivalence about that most normal and mundane of everyday activities – making ourselves something to eat. Many people have complex love-hate relationships with food. But what’s remarkable in my case is that for nearly two decades…

Make it a red rioja with the meatballs – choose a fairly young one for a lively, fruity style and avoid anything oaky. The sweet notes of the pork call for a light pinot noir from Pays d’Oc, France. A lime-tinged verdejo from Spain’s Rueda region would be a refreshing match for the burrata, while the shimp fritters need an elegant dry white to cut through – chill an albariño from Spain’s north west. An unoaked white rioja is best for the cinnamon chicken. For the turrón with ice cream, a lightly chilled, sweet moscatel would be a treat.…

COVER RECIPE Herby spinach falafel burgers with griddled fennel and halloumi MAKES 6 BURGERS. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the patties up to 1 day ahead and chill, covered, until ready to cook. FOOD TEAM’S TIP The falafel patties are vegan, so if you’re feeding any vegans, leave out the halloumi, use a vegan bun and swap the mayonnaise for a vegan brand. • 250g halloumi, sliced 0.5cm thick • 1 fennel bulb, sliced 0.5cm thick • 1 red chilli, finely chopped • Finely grated zest and juice 1 lemon • 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing • 6 brioche burger buns, split (see tip) • Mayonnaise to serve (see tip) • 2 beef tomatoes, sliced, to serve • 1 red onion, sliced into rings, to…

Driving along the narrow lanes to Dart Mountain Cheese, the drama of the countryside unfolds around you. Julie and Kevin Hickey’s dairy and home lie in the foothills of the Sperrin mountains, a vast area of unspoilt nature in County Derry, Northern Ireland. “We feel privileged to live in such a beautiful place and we try to celebrate it in what we do,” says Julie. In a region where the dairy industry is geared towards mass production, the couple are helping blaze a trail for traditional, local artisan cheesemaking. In 2015, their flagship sperrin blue, a rich creamy cheese with delicate blue veining, achieved gold in the Irish Food Awards, the first Northern Irish cheese ever to do so, and three years later nabbed a delicious. Produce Award. It’s a…

RECIPE: LUCAS HOLLWEG. RECIPE PHOTOGRAPH: TARA FISHER. FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: WEI TANG Blue cheese, fennel and radish salad SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD The croutons and dressing will keep in separate airtight containers for up to 2 days. • 3 sourdough bread slices • Olive oil for frying • 2 small (or 1 large) fennel bulbs • 8 red radishes • 4 celery sticks, still with the leaves on if possible • 4 handfuls wild rocket • 100g blue cheese, broken into chunks (we used sperrin blue, which is vegetarian; check the label if you need to) • 1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon FOR THE DRESSING • 1 tbsp lemon juice • 1 tsp sherry vinegar • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 2 tbsp extra-virgin…

THE BARGAIN WHITE Vino da Tavola Bianco NV, Emilia-Romagna, Italy (£5, Marks & Spencer) A crowdpleaser, refreshing and dry, nicely balanced with light notes of pear and apricot. A summer party white, it also goes well with leafy salads and tomatoes. THE BARGAIN RED Spar ‘G’ Garnacha 2016, Castilla y León, Spain (£6) Spar’s own range of grape variety wines, labelled by their initials, is good value, especially this aromatic, ripe and spicy red that would suit lamb chops or peppery sausages. THE MIDWEEK TREAT Cantine de Falco Primitivo 2017, Salento, Italy (£8.95, or £7.95 as part of a mixed 12, leaandsandeman.co.uk) Stylish southern-Italian red, tasting of cooked plums and damsons with a dab of chocolate. Open for meaty pasta dishes and roast pork. THE NO-ALCOHOL ONE Torres Natureo Muscat…

OUT MINCED BEEF AND LAMB IN LENTILS Cutting out meat doesn’t have to mean saying goodbye to favourite mince dishes. Green, brown and puy lentils are great mince substitutes – they soak up the flavour and have a similar texture to cooked mince. For every 450g mince use 200g dried lentils. Cook the lentils according to the packet instructions – add onion or bay leaves, then drain well and use as you would mince for pasta ragùs or cottage pie. Or use half meat, half lentils: 225g mince with 100g lentils (for 450g mince). Fry the mince, cook the lentils, then mix for the sauce. WHY LENTILS ARE GOOD FOR  YOU They’re complex carbohydrates and high in fibre and protein, as well as potassium, folate and iron.…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: KATY MCCLELLAND.PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR Gnocchi with roasted hazelnuts, garlic and anchovy cream SERVES 2-3. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN • 175g plain flour • 400g leftover mash, at room temperature • 1 free-range egg yolk, beaten • 30g butter • 1 tbsp light olive oil • 3 garlic cloves, crushed • 4-6 anchovy fillets, roughly chopped • 100ml single cream • 30g parmesan, shaved with a vegetable peeler • 2 handfuls rocket leaves • 2 tsp shelled hazelnuts, toasted in a pan and roughly chopped 1 Sprinkle 25g of the flour over the base of a baking tray. Spread the mashed potato onto a clean work surface to a 2cm thickness. Drizzle over the beaten egg yolk, then sprinkle over 100g flour. 2 Using a…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: ALEX LUCK. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR Prawn noodle salad SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN MAKE AHEAD The freshly made salad will keep, chilled, for up to 4 hours before serving. • 25g flat rice noodles or vermicelli noodles • 50g green beans, trimmed and roughly chopped • ½ red chilli, roughly chopped • Grating fresh garlic • 1½ tsp fish sauce • Pinch caster sugar • Juice 1 lime, plus wedges to serve • 5 cooked, peeled, sustainable prawns • 100g courgette, shredded with a julienne peeler or cut into strips • 50g cherry tomatoes, halved • 30g mango, finely sliced • Small handful fresh coriander, leaves picked • 5g toasted unsalted peanuts, chopped (optional) 1 Put the noodles and green beans in…

MEET OUR EXPERTS JEN BEDLOE Food editor SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH Deputy food editor OLIVIA SPURRELL Cookery assistant LUCAS HOLLWEG Chef and food writer THANE PRINCE Food writer, cook and queen of preserving CHEF’S STEP BY STEP Mr Bao’s Frank Yeung shows how to create his signature bao buns filled with spiced beef brisket delicious. KITCHEN Learn how to work with sugar, find out what’s in Gill Meller’s outdoor cooking kit and much more GAME CHANGER Bring a splash of Iberian magic to your cooking with sherry vinegar…

“I’m not a huge fan of gadgets or lots of kit, but there are some basics that keen open-fire cooks should have. None is particularly expensive and some of the most useful items are things I’ve just come across over the years. Browse in charity shops or car boot sales.” STOUT STICK For poking, prodding, riddling... TONGS For lifting things on and off the fire. I have one large, hefty pair for moving hot bricks or stones. POCKET KNIFE An essential tool for outdoor cooks. GRILLS OF MIXED SIZES They needn’t be designed for outdoors: I like old wire cooling racks/oven racks. STIFF WIRE BRUSH For scrubbing the grill before cooking and keeping stuff clean. BUTCHER’S HOOKS Brilliant, indestructible things. I use them for hanging meat, pans, etc, over…

The summer seafood classic, dressed crab, has been a British seaside treat for decades. Caught all around the UK coast from Scottish waters to Cromer and the Channel Islands,  brown crab is at its best from April to September SUSTAINABILITY Brown crabs (Cancer pagurus) have a ruddy brown shell with a pie crust-like edging. There’s a minimum legal landing size but as they’re abundant in the UK and any too-small catch can be returned to the sea, overfishing isn’t a problem. Crabs can grow up to 10mm per year for the first few years and regularly cast their shells to expand. After eight years this growth rate slows to 2mm per year. During the moulting process the crab becomes soft-shelled. It’s illegal to harvest UK crabs while this process is…

MARINATE chicken in a splash of sherry vinegar before grilling. SPLASH a little vinegar over roasted vegetables for a sweet-sharp tang or onto bitter salad leaves with fresh parsley and extra-virgin olive oil. DEGLAZE a hot pan with a splash of vinegar, a knob of butter and fresh thyme sprigs after cooking steak to create an instant sauce. QUICK-PICKLE chopped shallots in 3 tbsp sherry vinegar, 1 tbsp caster sugar, a pinch of sea salt and 3 tbsp hot water. Leave for 1 hour. MIX a splash of sherry vinegar with a little soft goat’s cheese and serve alongside a vegetable roast or pastry dishes such as tarte tatin.…

PHOTOGRAPH: TARA FISHER. FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: WEI TANG THE COOKERY SCHOOL WHERE The Cookery Club aboard P&O Britannia THE COURSE A baking masterclass with Eric Lanlard (£75 for two hours; cruises to Norway cost from £749 per person for seven nights, full board; to book, visit pocruises.com) TESTED BY Karen Barnes This isn’t your ordinary cookery class because it’s on board Britannia , a cruise ship known for its restaurants and state-of-the-art cookery school. You have to go on a cruise to do a course – obviously – but the Cookery Club is the reason a lot of food-and-cruise-loving people choose this as a holiday. That’s because you get a rare opportunity to learn from top chefs Marco Pierre White and Eric Lanlard, plus this year Paul A…

RECIPE: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: CLARE WINFIELD. FOOD STYLING: LUCY O’REILLY. STYLING: WEI TANG MAKES 16. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 10-12 MIN, PLUS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Cover and chill the dough for up to 3 days. The biscuits will keep for up to 3 days in an airtight container. KNOWHOW Ottijiet biscuits are rich, spiced shortbread biscuits traditionally eaten at tea-time. • 250g self-raising flour • ½ tsp fennel seeds, finely ground • Large pinch ground cloves • 85g cold salted butter, cubed • ¼ tsp salt • 85g golden caster sugar • Finely grated zest 1 large orange, plus 1 tbsp juice • Finely grated zest 1 large lemon, plus 1 tbsp juice • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 1 medium free-range egg • 2 tbsp milk…

Bedtime reading Ruth Reichl edited one of the most prestigious, groundbreaking food magazines in the world: Gourmet, in the US. Things came to a stark end when the magazine was closed without warning, but Reichl is an extraordinary writer with several books to her name. Now she’s written another, giving a glimpse behind the scenes of the world of yesteryearglam magazine publishing. Save Me the Plums (Random House £20.71) promises to be a fascinating read. Available only via amazon.co.uk Food (not so) glorious food This month the Victoria & Albert Museum opens its Bigger than the Plate exhibition, described as a multisensory journey through the food cycle. Expect cheese made from human bacteria (so weird it has to be seen but maybe not tried), find out what the sausage of…

1630 Charles II was born on 29 May. Although he was known as the Merry Monarch, he invoked public anger in 1675 by banning coffee houses, a proclamation he was forced to revoke just a month after it was announced. 1876 Native Americans had long made drinks from the bark of the sassafras tree, but 10 May was the first time a commercial version was sold. Teetotaller Charles Elmer Hires thought ‘root beer’ would have more appeal than ‘tea’. 1908 Physicist Nicholas Kurti was born on 14 May. A keen cook, he became the founding father of molecular gastronomy by using a microwave to make a ‘reverse baked alaska’ in a lecture in 1969 – it was cold on the outside and hot in the middle. 2000 The late Anthony…

Asda has pledged to donate £20 million to tackle food poverty as part of its Fight Hunger Create Change project, a three-year partnership between the retailer, anti-poverty charity The Trussell Trust and food redistribution charity FareShare. The aim is to tackle the root causes of food poverty in the UK by funding in-depth research into food bank use and supporting campaigning work to end the need for them. Launched in 2018, the Fight Hunger Create Change project has provided five million meals to people in need, and new warehouses, chillers and vans have enabled FareShare to deliver more surplus food to community groups. Meanwhile a pilot programme linking the charity with The Trussell Trust’s network of 1,200 food banks has helped supplement standard emergency food parcels with fruit and vegetables.…

If you need some crowd-pleasing food and drink, check out feast-it.com. The online platform is home to more than 650 event caterers, from independent street food trucks and mobile bars to private chefs and restaurants, including three Michelin-starred kitchens. Fill in your postcode and event details and let Feast It handpick the best choices for you – or have a browse yourself. The user-friendly site indicates average price (from £ to £££) and is searchable by cuisine and dietary requirements. It’s not just a comparison site: each booking is assigned an account manager and the company holds your money until the day after your event for added security. You can also spread the cost with a payment plan. We can see why it’s been called “the Airbnb of the party…

This knife is hand-forged by a man in Auvergne, France, called Bryan Raquin. I’d admired his knives for about two years before I asked if I could buy one. He said, ‘No, the knife decides who buys it.’ When they come up for sale on his website, they sell in seconds. I kept missing out. One day I was looking at a knife he’d just made. I refreshed the page and it came up for sale. I clicked ‘buy’ and that was that.I love good ingredients and I think it’s important to treat them well. It shows respect. I want to use a good pan and a decent knife, and whether I’m slicing a côte de boeuf or an onion, this knife simply falls through it. It’s made by someone…

RECIPE: ALFRED HITCHCOCK. PHOTOGRAPH: MYLES NEW. FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: LUIS PERAL THE PLOT DIGESTED When retired cat burglar John Robie (Cary Grant) finds himself the prime suspect after a series of jewel heists in French Riviera hotels, he enlists the help of insurance man HH Hughson (John Williams) and wealthy tourist Frances Stevens (Grace Kelly) to help him clear his name. WHY THIS FILM? Fred says: “Oh, where to begin? The delicious flirtation of Grant and Kelly? The glorious locations? Or with Hitchcock living up to his dictum that, rather than giving audiences a slice of life, he preferred to give them a piece of cake?” THE RECIPE TO EAT AS YOU WATCH… The quiche lorraine scene, in which Robie and Hughson each try to suss out whether…

Lebanon has a population of about 5.8 million, of which 25 per cent are refugees, and the World Food Programme (WFP) has been there since 2012. It provides e-cards that can be used to buy food in vetted stores or to take cash out of a cashpoint to pay for food, medical expenses and rent. Each month, the cards are topped up with $27 per person to spend. In 2017, the WFP transferred $1.4 billion in cash to 19 million people worldwide. The cards replaced food vouchers, which were exchanged for food that had to last a full month, leaving little room for fresh produce and giving limited meal choices. A knock-on effect was that hand-me-down recipes were at risk of being forgotten. The new e-cards give those who use…

If you’re going beyond your own garden and heading off for a proper camping moment over a night or more, it’s useful to have a few handy items up your sleeve to make campfire food extra-tasty: • Treat your campfire as a big barbecue. You can buy stand-alone grills easily from outdoor shops or from amazon.co.uk. Look out for pot stands, too, which allow you to hang pots over the fire. They’re great for heating up stews and boiling water for tea and coffee. • If you love herbs, pack a few growing pots (available from most supermarkets) so there’s no chance of the leaves wilting en route. • As well as the basics, pack a few spice pastes or mixes such as harissa, pesto or dukkah, which are great…

Sticky gooseberry cake with saffron and honey with custard “I have vivid childhood memories of gooseberries. In early summer the fruit, firm like marbles, striped and burred, appeared translucent enough to make you think you could see the seeds inside. Their sharp flavour left its mark on me. These tart, fleshy, juicy bombs of green and red, a precursor to warm summer months, are one of the few soft fruits I grow at home.They grow quickly with a little rain and warm sun, and soon cluster on low-slung bushes. They make for an interesting harvest, protected as they are by a thorny armour. I like them when they’re young, firm and acidic (as I remember them), but they’re equally delicious when full, plump, ripe and round, when they burst between…

RECIPE FROM MY KIND OF FOOD BY VALLI LITTLE (ABC BOOKS).PHOTOGRAPH: ALAN BENSON. FOOD STYLING: DAVID MORGANS Bengali fish curry SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the onion and coriander paste up to 2 days ahead and keep covered in the fridge. KNOWHOW Panch phoran (or phoron) is a Bengali five-spice seasoning (mustard, nigella, cumin seeds, fennel and fenugreek seeds). Buy it from Waitrose or souschef.co.uk. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS If you can’t find tamarind paste you can re-create its tangy/sour taste by adding the juice of 1 lime. Find recipes for dosas and naans at deliciousmagazine.co.uk. • 1 onion, roughly chopped • 2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped • 2cm piece fresh ginger, roughly chopped • 1 red chilli, deseeded (leave the seeds in if you like it…

Award-winning housewares brand Joseph Joseph is known for designing clever and good-looking products. If your picture of this month’s cover recipe is chosen as our winner, you’ll be able to update your kitchen kit with this fantastic collection of fabulous cookware. Here’s what the prize includes: a set of Elevate knives with a bamboo block; an Index bamboo chopping board set; a Cut & Carve bamboo chopping board and a Chop2Pot bamboo folding chopping board; plus the bestselling Joseph Joseph bread bin with bamboo cutting board lid. Also included are an Elevate Carousel 100 six-piece utensil set, a Nest 100 nine-piece nesting bowl set and a Stretch 100 expandable trivet. josephjoseph.com FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… make the ultimate veggie burger on our May cover, take a picture and share…

PHOTOGRAPH: MYLES NEW. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: LUIS PERAL “This dish is inspired by restaurants on Spain’s Basque coast, which cook their fish whole. I love turbot so much I named my restaurant, Brat, after an old English nickname for it. The fish has an appealingly gelatinous quality, so it roasts well and creates its own sauce. As it cooks, the potatoes absorb the fish stock it creates, combining with the wine and the fresh, anise aroma from the fennel. It’s a great take on a Sunday roast – stick it in the middle of the table and let everyone help themselves to their favourite parts of the fish, discovering its different textures and flavours.”TOMOS PARRY, CHEF AND FOUNDER, BRAT RESTAURANT Whole roast turbot with clams, fennel & potatoes…

WHAT MAKES SPERRIN BLUE WORTHY OF A PRODUCE AWARD? The rich, long-lasting flavour and pleasing texture are what won this cheese top honours in the From the Dairy (Artisan) category of the 2018 delicious. Produce Awards. The gnarled rind gives way to a pale gold interior, veined with lines of blue. It’s perfectly in balance, not bitter and less salty than many blue cheeses. “I’ve gone to the less salty end of the blue spectrum,” explains Julie. “The cheese morphs as it matures. It starts out at the crumbly end, then as the interior breaks down it becomes creamier. People who swear they’d never eat blue often find they like it.” WHAT THE JUDGES SAID Food writer, chef and TV presenter Prue Leith “Wonderful fresh flavour with good acidity.” Editor…

1 No two days are the same. It isn’t just the cheesemaking but it’s also everything that goes into maintaining it in top condition as it ages. 2 Making cheese is part careful analysis and part heavy lifting – that helps break up the day. 3 The possibilities are limitless. There are always new cheeses waiting to be created. 4 Seeing the process through from milk to finished product all under one roof. 5 Having to come up with inventive solutions. As a small producer we have a limited budget, so there’s always an element of problem solving.…

Ninety per cent of adult bone mass is in place by the end of adolescence but continuing to look after your bones when you’re an adult is a critical factor in staying mobile for as long as possible. Bone density can continue to build into the late 20s, after which it naturally starts to decline. Although genetics have a part to play in bone health and strength, the process of decline can be slowed or accelerated by environmental factors and lifestyle – particularly exercise, nutrition and hormones. Staying physically active and doing weight-bearing exercise, which includes walking, running, skipping, yoga and resistance training (but not swimming, cycling or rowing) at least three times a week has a positive impact on bone health; the mechanical loading of the skeleton is essential…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPH. CLAIRE WINFIELD. STYLING: WEI TANG Vegetable gyoza stir-fry SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP We used Itsu Vegetable Fusion Gyoza from Tesco, Morrisons, Waitrose and Ocado (in the frozen section). • 1 tsp vegetable oil • 5 frozen vegetable gyoza (see tip) • ½ carrot, peeled into ribbons • ½ courgette, peeled into ribbons • 100g sugar snap peas, halved • 1 tsp toasted sesame oil • 1 tsp soy sauce, plus extra for drizzling • ¼ tsp nigella seeds • 2 spring onions, finely sliced • 25g roasted salted peanuts, crushed or chopped 1 Heat the vegetable oil in a non-stick pan over a medium heat. Add the frozen gyoza and cook for 8-10 minutes, turning, until crisp and…

RECIPE: KATY MCCLELLAND. PHOTOGRAPH: CLARE WINFIELD. FOOD STYLING: LUCY O’REILLY. STYLING: WEI TANG Smoky orange, roasted tomato and olive pappardelle SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Cool the cooked tomatoes, then store, chilled, in an airtight container with all the roasting juices for up to 4 days. • 8 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped • 1 orange, cut into 6 wedges • 1 tbsp light olive oil • ¼ tsp sweet smoked paprika • 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced • 2 tsp maple syrup • 300g egg-free pappardelle or other dried pasta • 150g pitted green olives, roughly chopped • 2 large handfuls mixed herbs or rocket, roughly chopped • 50g mixed seeds or roughly chopped nuts (such as almonds, hazelnuts or pine nuts) • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive…

Beautiful, fragrant alphonso mangos, imported from India, have an all-too-brief season. Here are some ways to use  them while the divine abundance lasts. PRESERVE Whizz 500g mango flesh (from 4-5 fruit) in a processor with 2 deseeded red chillies. Heat the purée gently in a pan with 450g preserving sugar (with added pectin), 75ml fresh lime juice and 150ml cold water. When the sugar dissolves, increase the heat and boil for 5 minutes until setting point is reached (105°C on a digital probe/sugar thermometer). Pot and seal in clean sterilised jars while still hot. SALSA Finely chop the flesh of 2-3 ripe mangos, ½ red onion, 1 red chilli and a handful each of fresh mint and coriander leaves. Mix with the grated zest and juice of 1 lime, 1…

WHAT IS IT? Saffron ‘threads’ are formed from the dried red stigmas and orange-yellow styles of the autumn-flowering Crocus sativus, each plucked by hand. The quality of the spice is assessed by colour and flavour; saffron with a high stigma ratio is the most prized. It takes 200 crocuses to produce a single gram of spice. AROUND THE WORLD Originally from western Asia, the spice spread east to India and west to Europe, arriving in Spain with the Arabs in the 10th century. Iran produces more than 90 per cent of the world’s saffron. In Britain it was once widely grown in Eastern England – a tradition that’s been revived by small growers in Suffolk and Norfolk. GOES WELL WITH… Curries and biryanis, paellas, bouillabaisse, risottos and cakes. It gives…

“Bao are Asia’s answer to the burger. These pillowy-soft steamed rolls are the best kind of street-food snack, yet they lend themselves to home cooking too. Fill them with your favourite ingredients, from pork belly to jackfruit. This combination is one of my favourites – tender, slow-cooked spiced beef brisket and fresh, crunchy pickles.” Beef brisket bao buns with smacked cucumber MAKES ABOUT 25. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR 15 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 4 HOURS, PLUS ABOUT 20 HOURS RISING MAKE AHEAD Start the recipe 2 days in advance. Cook the beef up to 2 days ahead. Chill, cover and leave it in the cooking stock. KNOWHOW Mirin is sweet rice wine used for cooking. Find it, wasabi paste and pickled daikon in large supermarkets. Kewpie is a brand of Japanese…

HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste experts. We conduct our tests without packaging, so our tasters don’t know who produced each product or how much it costs. And to prevent one tester influencing another, they’re not allowed to confer during tests, so the results you read below are unbiased. WHAT WE LOOKED FOR Golden, flaky and well made pastry. Meat fillings should be well seasoned, savoury and have a good texture; extra flavourings should be balanced . The same applies to veggie rolls filled with cheese, veg or meat substitutes. CLASSIC WINNER Tesco Finest Pork Sausage Rolls, £2.60 for four (188g) Crisp, flaky pastry with a good-looking glossy glaze. Richly flavoured, herby sausage filling. They look homemade. RUNNER-UP Morrisons The Best Pork Sausage Rolls, £2.20 for four (188g) Generous,…

That first glimpse of the islands of Malta from the plane is surprise number one of many you’ll experience. The bleached, honey-coloured limestone of the buildings reflecting the sunlight creates a memorable luminosity, the structures blending seamlessly with the cactus-dotted, wild thyme-scented landscape. On the ground, the towns seem more North African than European, with their flat roofs and Arabic-sounding names, though there are architectural nods to Spain, too. The same goes for the cuisine. Malta (and the islands of Gozo and tiny Comino, both a short ferry trip) has had numerous occupiers – from the Phoenicians, who brought grapes, to the Arabs, who brought pasta. Add in the British (it was a colony from 1815–1964), who brought butter, driving on the left and the language spoken by most here,…