Innholdsfortegnelse for Jan-19 i Delicious UK

PHOTOGRAPHS: GARETH MORGANS, PAUL MITCHELL One of the things I love about January (and I’m guessing many of you are surprised by my use of the word ‘love’) is the freedom from to-do lists. If there are lists, they tend to be ideas for where to go on holiday or piles of papers and cupboards you’d like to sort out at home. The beauty of those lists is that they don’t bring pressure with them – if you want to, you can ignore them or even tear them up. That’s why I avoid new year resolutions. I’m all for taking time to breathe and think and decide what might be enjoyable to do – or do differently – in the 12 months ahead, but…

SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 45-50 MIN Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C/gas 6. Toss 4 parsnips, halved lengthways, and 3 golden beetroot, cut into wedges, with 2 tbsp olive oil in a roasting tray. Roast for 45-50 minutes until tender and caramelised. Meanwhile, peel 2 blood oranges. Slice 1 orange into segments, squeezing the juice from the pulp into a small bowl, then cut the remaining orange into rounds. Whisk 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil into the orange juice, then season with salt and pepper. Toss the leaves from 1 treviso radicchio (or any leaves you fancy) with the warm roasted veg, then arrange on a platter, scattered with the blood orange slices and segments, 50g toasted hazelnuts, chopped, and 75g soft goat’s curd or goat’s cheese.…

Do you know a food writer of the future? The annual Guild of Food Writers competition to discover young food writing talent, Write It, opens for entries on 7 January. Budding Nigels and Nigellas are invited to write about ‘food for sharing’, in any style or genre. A star judging panel, including (from left) chef and actor Lisa Faulkner, fiction writer Sherry Ashworth, broadcaster Stefan Gates, food campaigner Kalpna Woolf and delicious. editor Karen Barnes, will pore over the entries. Winners in each of the three age categories (10 and under, 11-14 and 15-18) will receive a £100 book token and a box of apples from competition partner Pink Lady, as well as the chance to attend a winners’ lunch in London with the judges. The champion in the 15-18…

THE MISSION The charity trains prisoners in cooking and enterprise skills. Janet first hit on the idea while working on the Independent Monitoring Board at Holloway women’s prison, where she saw the impact that skills training had on inmates’ lives. “In my job as a documentary-maker, I saw how vital food was in engaging with people,” says Janet. After Holloway prison closed in 2016, she worked tirelessly to set up a similar skills training scheme in Pentonville men’s prison and hopes to extend it to other prisons in future. WHAT DOES LIBERTY KITCHEN DO? Guided by a professional chef, the men have designed a menu of ‘Ball No Chain’ meatballs (including veggie and vegan ones). They make them in the staff canteen using quality ingredients. “Not all the men want…

How do you decide what to buy? Everything you see and read about here has been chosen from the hundreds of products we see and test each year. Only the most useful, most beautiful  and best value for money make it onto these pages TEA FOR ONE I do appreciate a fine bone china cup and saucer, but many are too small for a proper cuppa. Not so Jo Deakin’s designs, which are sizeable enough to be practical and available in myriad designs that mix and match beautifully. Plus, they come in beautiful orange boxes so they make a great gift. Ripple cup & saucer, £18, jodeakin.co.uk Good news for hot chocolate lovers Pump Street Bakery, renowned for its eccles cakes and craft chocolate, has just launched hot chocolates and…

ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK Contemplating binning the luxury Christmas leftovers in the annual bid for a New Year food refurb? January, in all its chilly, drizzly dullness, is far from the best time to go for it, advises Debora  Robertson. Instead, give yourself a break: cook what you love, love what you cook and your world will be a better tasting, better tempered place January: all grey and cold, and that’s just our complexions. After a month of staying up late attempting to rustle together a made-for-TV-movie version of Christmas that no one in our circle of intimates will ever forget – hopefully for the right reasons – fuelled only by breakfast prosecco and Quality Street, few of us are at our perky best. Let’s face it, it’s dark at 4pm and…

PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE KAY EXPLAINS HOW IT WORKS… Fred and I will take it in turns to pick the movie, make a case for why you should see it, then argue about dinner. I’m feeling generous, so I’m giving him first pick. FILM CHOICE FOR JANUARY... The Prisoner of Zenda (1937); cinemaparadiso.co.uk WHY FRED LOVES IT… Because it ought to be a classic! When Rudolf Rassendyll (Ronald Colman) sets off on a fishing holiday in an unnamed Central European kingdom (called Ruritania in the novel), he finds himself embroiled in a plan to stop an audacious coup, all because he’s the spitting image of the nation’s soon-to-be-crowned king. None of the other movie versions of the story are up to much, but…

Hot buttered rum & ginger toddy ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 5 MIN • 150ml dark rum (you can use whisky or brandy if you prefer) • 200ml Stone’s Ginger Wine • 8 whole cloves, lightly bashed • ½ lemon, thinly sliced • 3 tbsp light brown soft sugar • 200ml boiling water • 1 cinnamon stick, broken in half • 25g butter • 4 long rosemary sprigs 1 Put all the ingredients, apart from the butter and rosemary, in a small pan over a medium heat. Warm, stirring, until the sugar dissolves and the toddy is steaming (don’t boil). 2 Add the butter and stir until melted. Divide the toddy among heatproof glasses or cups, then add a rosemary sprig to each one. Serve straightaway with…

The cold weather at this time of year encourages people to come together to seek reassurance and banish the bleakness of the season with good company, good cheer and a warm blanket or two. We’ve become overfamiliar with the idea of hygge, but it’s not only the Danes who’ve made a virtue of comfort and conviviality… ⁕ GERMANYGemütlichkeit describes feelings of warmth, togetherness and peace of mind. The related Dutch word Gezelligheid echoes the warm, comfy-cosiness of the concept. ⁕ JAPAN The word ikigailoosely translates as ‘the thing that gets your mojo going’ but can also refer to the sense of satisfaction that comes from small, simple pleasures – such as making and eating perfectly buttered toast. ⁕ SWEDENMysig is used to describe situations and feelings of warmth and togetherness.…

THE BARGAIN WHITE The Best Sauvignon Blanc 2018, Western Cape, South Africa (£6.50, Morrisons) A sprightly young sauv blanc, with streaks of gooseberry and lime and a whiff of elderflower. Wakes up the taste buds as an aperitif and also suits white fish. THE BARGAIN RED Regional Selection Languedoc Red 2017, France (£7, Spar) A recent Which? Best Buy, this hearty blend of southern French grapes is packed with brambles, mulberry and a layer of spicy oak. Cries out for a beef casserole or steak. THE MIDWEEK TREAT Yalumba The Y Series Pinot Grigio 2017, South Australia (£9, The Co-op) Hurrah for a PG that isn’t bland. This one delivers a juicy cocktail of apples, pears and honeydew melons, finishing dry. Excellent with cold chicken and ham. THE SPLASH-OUT BOTTLE…

OUT: CROUTONS IN: NUTS & SEEDS Toasted nuts and seeds are a healthy option to scatter over soups and salads, especially after being toasted in a dry pan, perhaps with a little tamari. There’s nothing wrong with lovely golden cubes of toasted bread, of course, but most of us don’t consume enough nuts and seeds, and it’s beneficial to enjoy a serving (around 30g) every day. WHY NUTS ARE GOOD FOR YOU They’re full of healthy unsaturated fats, including omega-3s, which are linked to a lower risk of heart disease. Adding a handful to soups and salads contributes flavour and crunch as well as extra goodness.…

• Check the ‘carbohydrates (of which sugars)’ content in the ‘per 100g’ column on the nutrition label. Low sugar is less than 5g, high sugar is 22.5g or more, but also check the ingredients list. Some of the sugar may be from fruit and milk, but some may be less desirable added sugars. • Check the ingredients list to determine the source of any fat – bars whose main fat source comes from nuts could be a good choice. • Be wary of the size of the bar – 100g or more is an excessive serving – and limit the number of bars you eat. • Look for protein bars with the Informed-Sport logo, a quality assurance programme for sports nutrition products.…

RECIPE: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPHS: MIKE ENGLISH. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE The master recipe Beef shin and ale ragù SERVES 10-12 (2 MEALS FOR 5-6 PEOPLE). HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 4-4½ HOURS, SIMMERING TIME 15 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIPS We used Daylesford organic beef shin from Ocado, but any good butcher should sell British beef shin. If you prefer, add 1 tsp Marmite instead of the anchovies. KNOWHOW Soffritto is a diced veg base for Italian soups/stews. You can buy fresh or frozen (use straight from the freezer) from Waitrose/Ocado or simply make your own by frying very finely chopped onion, carrot and celery (in a 2:1:1 ratio) in olive oil until soft. • 3-4 tbsp vegetable oil • 2kg higher-welfare British beef shin slices (see…

Overnight oats SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, PLUS OVERNIGHT SOAKING In a large bowl, mix 300g jumbo rolled oats with 275ml dairy-free milk (we used oat), a 450g tin of mango pulp, 1 large apple, grated, and 125ml cold water. Stir in 200g dairy-free yogurt (we used coconut), then cover and chill overnight or for up to 3 days. To serve, divide among bowls, then top with passion fruit seeds and pulp, toasted chopped pistachios, mixed seeds and pomegranate seeds – whatever you fancy. PER SERVING 284kcals, 6g fat (1.3g saturated), 7.6g protein, 46.1g carbs (13.8g sugars), 0.2g salt, 8g fibre Mango, lime and ginger cake SERVES 10. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, OVEN TIME 55-60 MIN Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4. Cream 150g softened unsalted butter and…

Coriander chutney MAKES ABOUT 150G. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN Bring a small pan of water to the boil and have a bowl of iced water on standby. Plunge 30g fresh coriander into the boiling water for 3–5 seconds, then remove with a slotted spoon and immediately refresh in the iced water (this keeps the colour of the coriander, making the chutney a vivid green). When cooled, dry on kitchen paper and roughly chop. Put in a food processor or blender with 2 crushed garlic cloves, 1 green chilli and 60g roughly chopped walnuts, then whizz to a coarse paste, gradually adding 60ml lemon juice while whizzing. Add salt to taste. (If you don’t have a food processor, chop the ingredients finely, then pound to a coarse paste in a pestle…

MEET OUR EXPERTS JEN BEDLOE Food editor SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH Deputy food editor OLIVIA SPURRELL Cookery assistant LUCAS HOLLWEG Chef and food writer THANE PRINCE Food writer, cook and queen of preserving CHEF’S STEP BY STEP p113 Chetna Makan on how to master samosas, the classic Indian street food WEEKEND PROJECT Say cheese! Gloriously gooey and fragrant, our ultimate Swiss-style fondue is made for sharing delicious. KITCHEN Use frozen fruit to make a fantastic, ginger-laced compote…

THE NAME It’s derived from the French word fondre, which means to melt. A recipe for fondue first featured in an early 18th-century book on modern cookery by the French chef Vincent La Chapelle, but the dish described is more like scrambled eggs with cheese. Recipes for a mixture of melted cheese and wine did appear before that, but it wasn’t until 1875 that the sublime, melty mix was described as a fondue. HOW IT BECAME FAMOUS The Swiss Cheese Union heavily promoted fondue in the first half of the 20th century. It was served at the 1964 New York World’s Fair and went on to become the height of fashion during the 1970s. THE RECIPE Cheese, garlic and white wine are the three key components, with the garlic cut…

THE COOKERY SCHOOL WHERE Cambridge Cookery School, cambridgecookery.com THE COURSE Perfect tarts (£145 for a half-day, including lunch with wine, plus hot drinks and cake) TESTER Ellie Donnell THE SETTING The school was founded in 2008 by chef and food writer Tine Roche, who converted a former stonemason’s workshop into a cookery school and bistro-café. It’s a clean and calming space in a quiet courtyard setting, with streams of natural light pouring through big glass windows. The school, which is 1½ miles (a 30- minute walk) south of the city centre, runs courses for beginners and advanced cooks, children and teenagers (the residential Cooking for Uni courses are very popular). It also holds monthly wine tastings and runs culinary trips to Italy and Sweden. THE WORKSTATION It’s hard…

STAR EMAIL SUBJECT: Cracking Christmas FROM: Rosie Brooks This year was my first Christmas in my own flat and I couldn’t wait to read the festive issue of delicious. As an illustrator (see right; rosiebrooks.com) I’d been drawing lots of nutcrackers already this year and what fun it was to try them out in gingerbread [Nov, p83]. Anyone who dropped in over the festive season was treated to sugarplum fairy cakes, gingerbread soldiers and the fabulous cheese and mushroom piroshki mice. SUBJECT: Happy reader FROM: Joanne Keltie Every month I get excited when I hear the familiar thud at the front door and know my new delicious. magazine is here. Since becoming a mum seven months ago I’ve found your magazine a help in finding quick recipes to make around…

1559 Elizabeth Tudor was crowned in Westminster Abbey on 15 January. She was responsible for one of the first attempts at social welfare, providing a ‘parish loaf’ to feed those too ill or old to work. 5,398 items found in the tomb were meat and honey for the next world. 1951 The first episode of The Archers aired on 1 January. The production team snapped shut an ironing board to mimic the sound of a farm gate closing. They’re still using the original one today. 1965 The state funeral of Sir Winston Churchill took place on 30 January. The legendary bon viveur once said, “I’ve taken more out of alcohol than alcohol has taken out of me.” 1924 Archaeologist Howard Carter discovered the sarcophagus of Tutankhamun on 3 January. Among…

1 What’s the fat percentage of full-fat milk? a) 3.5 b) 4.5 c) 5.5 2 Which exotic spice grown in Iran, Morocco and Kashmir was also grown in Essex from the 16th to the 18th century? 3 What drink was pink with no bubbles until the 19th century? 4 Which game played on a mat with coloured circles was first called pretzel? 5 What’s the spiral part of a corkscrew called? 6 What whole fruit forms the filling in Sussex pond pudding? 7 What is the setting point for jam in centigrade? a)101-102 b)103-104 c)104-105 8 Which two chemicals produced by yeast are used in baking and brewing? 9 Food can be heated by conduction, convection and radiation. These equate to baking, grilling and frying. Which is which? (3 points)…

THE MAKER: SKYE WEAVERS Andrea Holden lives on the Isle of Skye, weaving nature-inspired throws and blankets on pedal-powered looms with husband Roger. HOW IT BEGAN “Over a decade ago, I went on holiday to the Isle of Mull, met Roger and ended up staying. I was thinking about what to do after my degree in cultural studies and was at a bit of a loss. At the time, we were living on an organic farm that had a weaving mill and slowly we drifted into the craft. Then after seven years we moved to Skye and set up Skyeweavers.” THE DESIGNING “I start the process with a close-up picture of lichens, moss or rocks – translating that into a woven design is really satisfying. We now work with local…

FOOD MEMORIES FROM MY FATHER My parents brought a mixture of cuisines and cultures to the table – my dad is from Pakistan and my mum from Iran. As soon as it’s sunny, Dad sets up a makeshift barbecue in the garden and cooks amazing neck fillets of lamb marinated in yogurt, garlic, chilli and oregano – the smell of them cooking on a warm summer’s day never fails to remind me of home. ...AND MY MOTHER Saffron is an integral part of Iranian cooking. I was taught by my mum that you should grind saffron with a pinch of sugar in a pestle and mortar, pour hot water on it and let it steep so it turns into a potent scarlet elixir. Only then is it ready to use…

PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE This recipe makes great use of one of my favourite joints – lamb shoulder. The meat is cooked gently for several hours until it becomes meltingly tender. Cheesy polenta is perfect for mopping up all those tasty cooking juices, while plenty of colourful vegetables are a wonderful contrast. PAUL MERRETT, CHEF AND RESTAURATEUR Paul Merrett’s slow-roast shoulder of lamb with chargrilled vegetables and cheesy polenta SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 4½ HOURS, PLUS RESTING MAKE AHEAD Leftover lamb and veg will keep in separate containers in the fridge for a couple of days. Reheat in a low oven to serve. KNOWHOW Lamb aged 1-2 years is known as hogget. The meat is richly flavoured, having had…

‘The aroma of cooking provokes our memories… Nostalgia is hard-wired in our noses” Normandy-style pork and cider casserole SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 2-2½ HOURS MAKE AHEAD Cook to the end of step 3, then cool, cover and chill for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost, then reheat on the hob and continue. • Olive oil for frying • 1kg pork shoulder, cut into 2.5-3cm cubes • 400g shallots, peeled • 200g bacon lardons • 1 onion, chopped • 2 celery sticks, chopped • Large knob of butter for frying • 300ml medium-dry cider, plus an extra 1 tbsp and a splash • 400ml chicken stock • 1 tbsp cornflour • 100ml crème fraîche • 2 tbsp dijon mustard • Handful…

“ This can be a confusing month for cooks, with all the messages to ‘cut this out, stop doing that, eat less of this, drink more of that’. But I think we need comforting now more than ever. It’s dark at 4pm and the weather’s  so bleak and uninviting that raw salads and kefir shakes simply can’t cheer us up. We need sustenance for the body but also for the heart. We want to feel loved, warmed and reassured, not hollow and hungry – and January is a brilliant time to cook nourishing hearty food. New, exciting vegetables might be few and far between, but that doesn’t mean you can’t make the most of the storecupboard. Beans, smoked bacon and tinned tomatoes form the basis of this slow-cooked dish, but…

“After the chaos and extravagance of Christmas, January feels like a breath of fresh, albeit frosty, air – a much-needed excuse to stay home and retreat from things a little. It might not be the most exciting month of the year for fresh produce but that means I rely on my storecupboard that bit more, which is no bad thing. I love a new year cupboard clear-out, and in turn it means I get to feast on homely, comforting meals, unfussy one-pot wonders that are the edible equivalent of curling up on the sofa with a blanket. RECIPES, STYLING AND FOODSTYLING GEORGINA HAYDEN PHOTOGRAPHS LAURA EDWARDS I’ve learned never to start a diet in January. It’s far too cold to be eating salad. Even so, I do find I…

Miso pork stir-fry SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN • 1 tbsp vegetable oil • 250g free-range British pork mince • 3 tbsp miso paste (from most large supermarkets) • 1 leek, sliced • ½ red cabbage, finely shredded • 1 large carrot, peeled into ribbons • 300g noodles (fresh or dried, prepared/cooked according to pack instructions) • 2 tbsp soy sauce • 1 tbsp sesame seeds • 1 finely sliced red chilli and some sliced spring onions to garnish • Lime wedges to serve 1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan or wok over a high heat. Add the pork mince and stir-fry for 5-6 minutes until browned and beginning to crisp. Add the miso paste and stir to combine. 2 Stir in the leek and red…

Pan-fried pork chop with sage and apple mash SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 5-6 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make extra mash for another meal; cover and chill for up to 3 days. • 1 tsp olive oil • 1 British free-range pork chop • 6 small fresh sage leaves • 1 small cooking apple (such as bramley), peeled, cored and roughly chopped • 150g floury potato (such as maris piper), roughly chopped • 125ml milk • 2 tbsp half-fat crème fraîche • Knob of butter • Steamed kale and wholegrain mustard to serve 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Heat the oil in a small ovenproof frying pan and season the chop on both sides. Hold the chop in the pan with tongs, skin-side down,…

RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: WEI TANG Tomato and bacon lasagne SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 30 MIN HOW WE DID IT We swapped a beef ragù for a pork mince version. The béchamel is made with skimmed milk and olive oil to reduce calories and sat fat, but still adds a creamy richness to the finished dish. • 2 tbsp olive oil • 200g free-range British smoked bacon lardons • 250g lean free-range British pork mince • 1 large celery stick, finely chopped • 1 large carrot, finely chopped • 3 garlic cloves, chopped or sliced • 200ml white wine • 700ml jar tomato passata or crushed tomatoes • 1 veg stock pot (we used Knorr)…

“Food and the memories of food – who it was eaten with, the taste and the emotional associations it carries – are my lifeblood. These recipes are a reflection of that, and of the changing dialogue about what we eat: a celebration of all things vegetable and their growing prominence at our tables. I want to show you how vegetables, grains  and pulses can shine – and here they do, brightly. I hope these recipes will become part of your full pantry, warm home, celebrations, family gatherings and happy everyday life.” PETER KURUVITA Uttapam SERVES 3. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, PLUS 1 HOUR RESTING “Uttapam is a thick dosa, or pancake, topped with vegetables. Essentially it’s an Indian pizza, so get creative and top with whatever you like. The pancakes…

Ina Garten’s chicken & spinach waldorf salad SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN RECIPES ADAPTED FROM COOK LIKE A PRO BY INA GARTEN (CLARKSON POTTER, COPYRIGHT ©2018; PHOTOGRAPH MAJA SMEND; FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL; STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE) ANDRIVER COTTAGE MUCH MORE VEG BY HUGH FEARNLEY-WHITTINGSTALL (BLOOMSBURY; PHOTOGRAPH STUART WEST; FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH; STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE) “There’s a restaurant in East Hampton, New York, called the East Hampton Grill, and whenever I go I order their amazing chicken and spinach waldorf salad. I’ve tested and retested this so many times – not because it wasn’t perfect, but because we wanted to eat it for lunch!” INA GARTEN INA’S TIP For soft-boiled eggs, put room-temperature eggs in a medium saucepan of boiling water, lower the heat, then…

While the delicious. team are testing recipes, they’re often debating the best ways to do things, as well as answering questions that arise in the test kitchen. What do you do with all those leftover festive nuts? Is it safe to reheat rice? Is British lamb in season at this time of year? And what do you do if your shortcrust pastry fails? It’s the kind of information you won’t find anywhere else, and it will take your food and cooking to the next level…

WHAT YOU’LL NEED… • Plenty of cold running water (work over the sink) • Good sharp knife 1 Rinse the squid under cold running water to clean, then pull the tentacles and head away from the body (try not to break the small, grey ink sac – in the centre of our picture), then remove any innards and the translucent quill. Discard the quill, innards and the ink sac (if not using ink for your recipe). 2 Slice the wings away from the side of the body (these can be eaten). 3 Carefully peel away the thin purple skin from the body and wings, then discard. 4 Cut the tentacles away from the head, just below the eyes, then discard the head and any attached parts. 5 Squeeze the base…

PHOTOGRAPHS: GARETH MORGANS. FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE Olivia’s ultimate swiss cheese fondue SERVES 4-6 (DEPENDING ON HOW GREEDY YOU’RE FEELING). HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN KNOWHOW Packs of ready-grated cheese contain cornflour to prevent it sticking together. If you buy these for your fondue, you’ll need to omit the cornflour in the recipe. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Buy reblochon from cheesemongers or larger supermarkets. • 2 garlic cloves • 400g grated gruyère • 150g grated emmental • 150g reblochon (weight with rind removed), cut into chunks – see tip • 4 tsp cornflour (optional; see Know-how) • Freshly grated nutmeg to taste • 350ml dry riesling (or other dry white wine) • 2 tbsp kirsch • Cured ham, cornichons and bread for dipping (see right) YOU’LL ALSO NEED… •…

“If there’s an Indian street food that’s known all over the world, it’s the samosa. You can find all sorts of them served everywhere from fancy restaurants to kerbside vendors, in India and beyond. Samosas can be made with myriad fillings and flavoured with countless spices, but this has to be one of my favourites: a classic mix of paneer and peas.” CHETNA MAKAN Paneer and pea samosas MAKES 24. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR MAKE AHEAD Make the filling (step 2) then, once cooled, keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days. KNOWHOW Carom seeds are also known as ajwain or ajowan caraway seeds. They have a slightly bitter, herbal flavour and are often used in curry pastes, as well as in breads and pastries.…

Tarte au chocolat SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN, PLUS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Make the pastry to the end of step 3, wrap and chill for up to 3 days. The cooked case will keep in an airtight container for 2 days. The finished tart will keep in an airtight container for 2 days. FOOD TEAM’S TIP When making pastry, use the pulse button to mix it together. If you whizz it for too long, gluten will form and the pastry will be tough. FOR THE PASTRY • 170g plain flour, plus extra for dusting • 2 tbsp caster sugar • 100g chilled unsalted butter, cubed • 1 medium free-range egg yolk FOR THE FILLING • 200g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), roughly chopped • 100g…

HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste experts. We conduct our tests without packaging, so our tasters don’t know who produced each product or how much it costs. And to prevent one tester influencing another, the panel aren’t allowed to confer during the tests, so the results you read below are unbiased. WHAT WE LOOKED FOR A good croissant should be golden and well risen with a crisp exterior. The lamination of the dough (layering with butter and folding repeatedly) should result in plenty of light, flaky layers, and it should never be tough or chewy (a sign the dough has been overworked). The rich flavour of quality butter should shine through.…

Blood oranges are all the more welcome and treasured for the fact that their season is short: they land at winter’s coldest point and finish when spring kicks in. Their pitted skins hide an artist’s palette of ruby-daubed segments inside, each orange different in its design. The moment when you halve a batch ready for juicing is like a summer sunset. Brilliant for making marmalade (see p52) or a blood-orange negroni cocktail, they’re also great in a zingy winter salad, all the more welcome for that freshness to balance the richness of winter’s comfort food.…

*A FULL MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER MUST BE SUPPLIED. ENTRANTS MUST BE OVER 18. FOR FULL T&CS, TURN TO P129 This month, our star email wins a hamper full of Yorkshire spirit from Priory Vodka. Distilled in the grounds of a 12th-century priory, this pure, fruity and floral vodka is made from potatoes grown on the Rawlings family farm. The hamper includes the classic potato vodka and new flavoured varieties, as well as a kit for making the ultimate espresso martini.* prioryvodka.co.uk…

In association with The Good Food Guide Banker-turned-chef Chris Rowley moved to this tranquil spot with his wife Rachel in 2016. Together, they’ve created a restaurant-with-rooms that puts Scottish produce at its heart. Everyone eats at the long mahogany table of the book-lined dining room. Whether you choose the three-course classic menu (£45) or six-course ‘Tastes of Highland Perthshire’ menu (£65), expect top ingredients: house-smoked wood pigeon; Skye langoustines to dip in a punchy, sunset-yellow aïoli; beef and lamb from the nearby Atholl Estate; and locally made venison salami. Don’t miss the seasonal ticketed ‘feast nights’, including one planned for Burns Night on Friday 25 January (see opposite for more Burns Night ideas). The Good Food Guide 2019 (£17.99) is out now…

• HAGGIS WELLY, LONDON WC1 Hosted by Calum Franklin, piemaker supreme at Rosewood London hotel in Holburn, guests will feast on haggis wellington and whiskies from The Glenlivet distillery. £145 including wine and whisky pairing; london.restaurants@rosewoodhotels.com • CHEESE & WHISKY GALORE, EDINBURGH Head to cheesemonger I J Mellis’s Morningside Road shop and try four drams of whisky paired with four Scottish farmhouse cheeses to mark the Bard of Ayrshire’s birthday. 24 Jan, £30; search Burns Night Cheese & Whisky on eventbrite.co.uk • DANCING & DRAMS, GLASGOW Ubiquitous Chip, a Glasgow institution and expert in Scottish fare, hosts a night of revelry featuring a four-course menu and full ceilidh band. 24 Jan, from £32.95; search Beyond Burns on Facebook…

This month’s fireside sipper Since being guided to the complex smoothness of single malts, I’m a whisky convert. The Glenrothes Speyside is aged in sherry-seasoned oak casks for 12 years. The result is an almost creamy nectar, rich with overtones of vanilla. Add a splash of water to open out the flavours… Fabulous stuff. Around £41 for 70cl, from thewhiskyexchange.com and masterofmalt.com The new crisps Drinks Biscuits are such a good idea: smart little boxes containing eight bite-size cheesy biscuits to serve with drinks. I’m hoping pubs catch on to these soon. If you’re at home, they’re just the right size to open for a drink with whoever is supping with you. The Lancashire Cheese & Spring Onion is good with whisky, but they all hit the mark. £1.90 for 36g…

Greek-style lamb and pasta bake SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 2 HOURS MAKE AHEAD Make the lamb sauce to the end of step 2, then cool, cover and keep chilled in an airtight container for up to 3 days. FOOD TEAM’S TIP We’ve made our own fresh, zingy mint sauce, but you could use a good quality store-bought sauce to save time. • 1 tbsp olive oil • 800g diced lamb shoulder • Sea salt flakes • 2 onions, finely chopped • 2 tsp each dried oregano and thyme • 1 tsp dried mint • 3 bay leaves • ½ tsp ground cumin • 1 tsp smoked paprika • 400g tin cherry tomatoes • 625ml chicken/vegetable stock, hot • 300g orzo or other small pasta shapes •…

delicious. PRODUCE AWARDS 2018 How we found our winners... THE ENTRIES Back in March last year, we asked you to nominate your favourite artisan food producers – the people who make the kind of food, from sourdough bread to smoked fish, that you go out of your way to buy – and you did us proud. Your nominations poured in, along with inspiring stories about producers’ skill and passion. We divided our entries into nine regions for first-round judging. THE REGIONAL JUDGING From June through to September, delicious. and our brilliant sponsor, Fisher & Paykel, went on tour, visiting food festivals from Scotland and Northern Ireland to Wales, and the length and breadth of England. At each show, the produce was tasted and assessed by a panel of regional food…

Rustle up our amazing hasselback potato fondue bake and be in with a chance of winning a fabulous collection of Viners kitchen kit. There’s a set of four forged aluminium pans, suitable for all hob types, and a 44-piece Mayfair canteen set in a classic design with gorgeous curves and a weighty yet comfortable feel. The luxury bundle also includes a Titan six-piece knife block set, a Select three-piece cheese set and six-piece sets of pastry forks, butter knives and teaspoons. • Viners is celebrating 110 years’ experience in creating high-quality, design-led products. Visit viners.co.uk for the latest news and offers or to sign up to the newsletter. FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN…Make the fondue hasselback potato bake on our January cover, take a picture and share it with us via social…

Psychologists have a name for the link between smell, taste, memory and emotion: The Proust Effect. It’s named after the 19th-century novelist’s description of how a particular smell – the aroma of a madeleine dipped in tea – transported him straight back to childhood. It’s a sensation we’re all familiar with. One whiff of a baking chocolate cake and we’re feeling child-like, giddily anticipating birthday parties and balloons. Or, as scientists might more soberly put it, “Olfactory cues are effective reminders of biographical experiences.” A study of research into the Proust Effect in 2000 suggested why smell-memories persist when visual or aural memories have faded: the olfactory bulb, the major smell and taste organ, has strong neural links to the parts of the brain involved in memory function and emotion,…

This is the result of a joint love affair I have for crisp, roast potatoes and melted cheese – more specifically fondue (see p110). It’s a joy to eat and couldn’t be simpler to prepare. Add a sharp dressed green salad and you have a knock-out winter supper for sharing. JEN BEDLOE, FOOD EDITOR Fondue hasselback bake SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 20-30 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Any melting cheese would work. Choose your favourite combo or use up cheese you have. We also tried this successfully with 100g each of camembert, taleggio and gruyère. To stop the knife cutting all the way through the potatoes when you slice them, sit each potato in the bowl of a wooden spoon to slice. It makes the…

Baked kheer with saffron and vanilla pears SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 50 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS OVERNIGHT INFUSING AND RESTING MAKE AHEAD Start the recipe a day before you want to eat it. Poach the pears up to 3 days ahead. Once cool, transfer the fruit in its syrup to an airtight container and keep in the fridge. Bring to room temperature to serve. KNOWHOW Carnaroli and arborio rice are short-grain varieties used to make risotto. Both have a high starch content, which gives creaminess to the finished dish. If you can’t find carnaroli or arborio rice, use pudding or dessert rice. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Keep the vanilla pods to garnish the dish, if you like. If you can’t find baby pears, use 3-4…

THE MEDIC’S VIEW TIM SPECTOR, AN EXPERT ON GUT HEALTH, IS PROFESSOR OF GENETIC EPIDEMIOLOGY AT KING’S COLLEGE LONDON AND AUTHOR OF THE DIET MYTH: THE SCIENCE BEHIND WHAT WE EAT The organic food debate hots up The argument over whether organically produced food is or isn’t ‘healthier’ continues. Last October’s NutriNet-Santé study followed 69,000 French people and looked in detail at organic foods and cancer risk. Though it has the usual biases of observational studies, it suggests a reduction in the risk of common cancers by a quarter among people who are ‘heavy’ consumers of organic produce. The data showed a reduction in breast cancer after the menopause, but is most convincing for non-Hodgkin lymphoma – and two previous epidemiological studies showed the same preventive effects. The data suggests…

Given the rate at which we’re devouring them, it seems many of us believe (or hope!) energy bars are good for us. Sales have risen by a chunky 40 per cent in the past year, according to research group Kantar Worldpanel. In the UK, we now munch through more than 20 million energy bars and balls a year. But the big questions are what exactly is in them and why do we find them so appealing? Energy snacks generally fall into two categories, which often overlap. Energy balls and bars (sometimes known as sports bars) are marketed as a convenient way to refuel before, during or after intensive exercise. They may be filled with nuts, seeds and fruit and are often fortified with vitamins and minerals. Some brands also contain…

RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE Celariac and fennel potato latkes with smoked trout SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP Leftover ungrated celeriac and fennel will keep well in a sealed bag or container in the fridge (rub the cut edge of the celeriac with lemon juice to prevent browning). Use it up as part of the base for sauces and stews, or chop into chunks and add to a tray roast. • 80g celeriac, peeled and grated • 80g fennel, finely sliced • 1 small waxy potato (about 30g), grated • 20g free-range egg white (1 small egg’s worth) • 2 tsp Doves Farm gluten-free potato flour • 2 tsp gluten-free horseradish sauce (we like Tracklements) or gluten-free wholegrain…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH.PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Baked falafel in tomato sauce SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 12-15 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Make a double batch of the sauce and freeze half in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Defrost in the fridge to make this again or stir into pasta instead. If your tahini is too thick to drizzle, loosen it by whisking in a tiny splash of hot water. • 150g pack falafel mix (we used Al’fez from Waitrose, but Sainsbury’s sells a similar one) • Small handful fresh flatleaf parsley, finely chopped • 1 tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • 1 yellow pepper, chopped • 1 tbsp harissa paste • 50g dried apricots, chopped •…

He was born in London to an Austrian mother and Sri Lankan father, then spent much of his childhood in Sri Lanka before moving to Australia with his parents. His career as a chef has taken him from Sydney to London, the US, Fiji and Bali. At home in Australia, where he still lives, Peter brings his signature style to the renowned Noosa Beach House restaurant on Australia’s Sunshine Coast in Queensland. These recipes are from his second book, Lands of the Curry Leaf (his first, Serendip, was published in 2009).…

That bowl of Christmas nuts still lingering around the house has potential to add flavour and crunch to all sorts of dishes. Shell and chop nuts, then toast in a hot, dry pan. Scatter over pasta, cereals, puddings and salads – or try one of these quick ideas: DUKKAH Roast 15g each coriander and cumin seeds with 60g shelled mixed nuts such as hazelnuts, almonds and cashews in a hot oven for 5-10 minutes or until they begin to colour. Tip into a food processor, season with salt and black pepper, then pulse until finely crushed. Store in an airtight container somewhere cool. Serve as a dip with olive oil and bread. HONEY NUT BUTTER Roast 300g shelled mixed nuts in a hot oven until aromatic. Whizz to a purée…

With its distinctive fragrance, cardamom is a key ingredient in dishes from Indian curries to Scandinavian cakes and bakes, and Turkish coffee WHAT IS IT? Cardamom pods are the dried fruit of a member of the ginger family (Elettaria cardamomum) from southern India, Sri Lanka and Guatemala. HOW TO USE IT? It’s the small dark seeds inside each pod that deliver the intense flavour. They’re often removed and either used whole, sprinkled into cakes (such as Scandinavian cardamom buns) and fruit-based dishes, or ground and used in spice mixtures such as garam masala. Whole pods (bashed to expose the seeds) give a layer of flavour to curries or rice dishes. HOW TO USE IT Cardamom works well in savoury dishes with cumin and chilli. In sweet dishes, warm spices, such…

SUSTAINABILITY Bass was one of the first sea fish to be farmed extensively in Europe and it now rivals other farmed species including salmon, tilapia and gilthead bream. Wild sea bass, however, is red-listed by the The Marine Conservation Society and commercial and recreational fishing for them is restricted. Once wild bass have had a break for a few years they’ll start to make a slow return to restaurant menus. WHAT TO LOOK FOR All sea bass at major retailers will be farmed, usually from Greece, Turkey or France. Larger fish have more succulent flakes and a stronger flavour, but will also be more expensive. Because the word bass is synonymous with best eating, some fish have had a name change to make them more appealing. An emerging species called…

• When cutting or tearing the bread for dipping, make sure each small piece has some crust attached. This bit of structure will help keep your bread from escaping and getting lost in the cheese. • Cornichons offset the richness of the cheese, but serving a fresh leafy salad alongside with a sharp, lemony dressing works well, too. • As a savoury accompaniment, thinly sliced cured meats work well. • Roast new potatoes make a great addition to a fondue spread. Roast with garlic and rosemary, or use smaller chunks of large floury potatoes instead. Chunky oven chips are a simple alternative. • Roasted veg, such as cauliflower, broccoli, brussels sprouts and carrots, all work for dipping. Try raw radishes, cherry tomatoes and celery, too. …or go for fruit •…

Swap the paneer for an equal quantity of cooked mashed potato for a vegan version. The filling shouldn’t be hot when you fill the pastry cones (step 4). If you’re in a hurry, you can spread the mixture out over a baking sheet to cool it down more quickly. When shaping a pastry cone, dampen your hands with a little water to stop it sticking to you. If you don’t have a deep-fryer, check the oil is hot enough to fry the samosas (step 5) by dropping in a small piece of dough. It will brown in 30-40 seconds when the oil is the right temperature.…

• The butter should be fridge-cold before you rub it into the flour. If the butter is too warm, it will melt and soak into the flour, resulting in collapsed or misshapen pastry. • If making pastry by hand, use only your fingertips to rub the butter into the flour (using your palms will over-warm the butter). • To check if your pastry mix is ready, squeeze a good pinch together. If it clumps it’s ready. • Chill the pastry for at least 20 minutes after making/before baking to reduce shrinkage. • Don’t put your baked pastry case in the fridge or it will go soft.…

1ST PLACE Lidl croissants, 35p each, in-store bakery Handsomely browned and puffed pastries with a crisp outer shell, pleasant savoury butter flavour and hint of sweetness. Light and tender inside. 2ND PLACE Marks & Spencer, 90p each, in-store bakery Looked the part and had good lamination, but a touch doughy, suggesting over-proving. Some testers found the butter flavour artificial. 3RD PLACE Co-op croissants, 78p each, in-store bakery Yeasty aroma, attractive appearance and impressive flaky layers, but lacking any real butter flavour and too sweet for some testers. PHOEBE STONE. BOOK REVIEWS: SUSAN LOW…

SUQAR: DESSERTS AND SWEETS FROM THE MODERN MIDDLE EAST ‘Suqar’ is Arabic for sugar and the sweet stuff is what the latest book from Greg and Lucy Malouf is all about – specifically sweets with a Middle Eastern origin. That turns out to be quite a lot of them, from sorbet to rice pudding… One to sink your sweet tooth into. Hardie Grant £30 TOM KERRIDGE’S FRESH START Sustaining, nourishing, family-style recipes are the name of the game in Tom’s latest book. “It isn’t a diet book,” he writes (phew). It’s also not about turning out fancy restaurant-style dishes but about getting good, nutritious food on the table and cooking with confidence. That’s something we can definitely get behind. Absolute £26 MIDNIGHT CHICKEN (& OTHER RECIPES WORTH LIVING FOR) The…

THE SUN INN Dedham, Essex BY KAREN BARNES WHY IT’S GREAT If you fancy a night in a quintessentially English village, Dedham needs to be on your list. The Sun Inn on the high street is a coaching inn full of old-world charm – wonky walls, wooden beams and crackling fires – which prides itself on having been a stopping-off point for travellers and revellers for centuries. As I stamped the frost from my feet and chose a little something to warm the cockles (it was a whisky mac kind of night), I could tell there was cosiness in store. THE FOOD In the bar you can go light with a sandwich or cheese platter, but in the dining room there’s more on offer. Try the cheese toastie starter made…

Some call it a ‘fashionable seed’ or a ‘versatile superfood’. Others dismiss it as a ‘fancy grain’, even though it’s not a grain and looks a bit like sand. But for those eager to move on from the gluttonous excesses of Christmas, quinoa can point you in the direction of wellbeing and vitality, thanks to its nutritional dissimilarity to brandy butter. Google data reliably informs us that internet searches for ‘quinoa’ experience a massive spike every January as people seek to establish exactly how good for you it is and, more importantly, what to do with it. But for every person who embraces quinoa as a healthy option, there will be three or four who ridicule it as the exclusive foodstuff of the middle classes – or, worse, hipsters. “After…