Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2016 i Delicious UK

Cool, crisp morning air, the earthy smell of damp leaves, a hint of misty breath and the urge for a comforting hot chocolate or mug of soup to wrap your hands around … Such are the inviting moments of November as our communal thoughts turn towards the festivities lying in wait just beyond the horizon. We say, get cosy, light candles, beat the chill and share good times with friends and family over our enticing recipes. The super-simple recipe BAKED CAMEMBERT WITH CRISPY PANCETTA AND SOURDOUGH STICKS SERVES 4 AS A STARTER Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Make a cross in the top of a whole, boxed camembert with the tip of a sharp knife and put the box on a large square of foil. Poke a few…

RECIPES THAT WORK Every recipe is rigorously tested by our food team, using state-of-the-art Electrolux ovens, so you can be confident they work every time. INGREDIENTS We aim to use easy-to-find seasonal ingredients. We’ll tell you where to find any unusual ingredients and/or what to substitute them with. We use higher-welfare meat for testing, supplied by The Ginger Pig (thegingerpig.co.uk). This symbol next to an ingredient means there are more ideas for using it on our Loose Ends page. HONEST COOKING TIMES Unlike many magazines, our timings include prep such as chopping. Hands-on time is when you’re chopping, stirring or frying. Oven/simmering time is when you can leave the dish in the oven or on the hob. Indicates a vegetarian recipe. Indicates a vegan recipe. Indicates a gluten-free recipe. KNOWHOW…

“ If you’re a food lover and you’re buying a gift for someone with similar loves, it’s a treat of a task finding just the right present, but it still has to be done. We’ve made your search easier with this delicious. collection – our pick of the best gifts this Christmas, whittled down from hundreds. ” KAREN BARNES, EDITOR BACK TO BASICS Just the chinaware for decanting dairy: timeless designs that are a charming reminder of an age before flashy packaging. Milk jug, £35, butter dish, £35, cheese platter & dome, £45 (not shown), paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk PERFECT SERVE The classic bar tool gets an update – slick and sleek, and the ideal size for stockings or party-season pockets. Barwise Waiter’s Friend, £15, Harrods and josephjoseph.com VIP…

TEAM FAVOURITE Rebecca Brett, digital editor “Bitter radicchio sweetened with balsamic vinegar, creamy blue cheese and crunchy hazelnuts make this different from the usual midweek pasta dish – in a most excellent way.” Balsamic radicchio, blue cheese and hazelnut cavatappi SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN KNOWHOW Cavatappi is a spiral, tubular pasta. You could use macaroni or fusilli instead. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Quality balsamic vinegar is more syrupy than ordinary balsamic. If you’re using a thinner vinegar, add a good pinch of sugar to the pan at the end of step 1. Alternatively, use balsamic glaze. •  400g cavatappi, or other short pasta (see Know-how)• Extra-virgin olive oil for frying and drizzling• 50g blanched hazelnuts, roughly chopped• 3 garlic cloves, finely sliced• 1 small radicchio or 2 red chicory, shredded• A few fresh thyme…

“The preparation [of good food] should be regarded as a labour of love… for those who actually and positively enjoy the labour involved in entertaining their friends.” ELIZABETH DAVID, FRENCH COUNTRY COOKING Twice-baked butternut quash and sage soufflés MAKES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 60 MIN, OVEN TIME 57-58 MIN, PLUS COOLING MAKE AHEAD Prepare the soufflés up to the end of step 7, turn them out of the moulds and leave to cool, then place in individual baking dishes (or in one large one). Wrap well in cling film and chill for up to 24 hours, or freeze for up to a month (defrost to continue). •  ½ butternut squash (about 500g), peeled and diced into 2cm pieces• 3 garlic cloves, unpeeled• Olive oil for roasting• 300ml whole milk• ¼ onion• 1 bay leaf• Pinch freshly…

Sticky toffee poached pear cake SERVES 10-12. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 40-45 MIN, OVEN TIME 65 MIN, PLUS COOLING AND OVERNIGHT MARINATING MAKE AHEAD This cake will keep for up to 72 hours in an airtight container. FOOD TEAM’S TIP To use the rest of the poaching liquid, simmer it down to a syrup, strain, then stir into mulled wine or champagne, or mix with whipped cream to serve with Christmas pudding. FOR THE POACHED PEARS • 700ml perry (pear cider)• 200ml ruby port• 4 tbsp light muscovado sugar• 1 cinnamon stick• 1 star anise• 3 cloves• Pared peel from ¼ lemon• 3 firm pears FOR THE CARAMEL • 80g butter• 160g light muscovado sugar FOR THE SPONGE • 220ml natural yogurt (not low-fat)• 200g unsalted butter• 200g light muscovado sugar• 200g black treacle• 2 large free-range eggs, lightly beaten• 200g plain flour• 1 tsp…

“Mum was a wonderful cook and ahead of her time, as in the late 1960s and 70s, when I was growing up, she was making ‘exotic’ curries and Italian dishes when my friends’ mums were still serving dry chops with overcooked veg. She was a beautiful woman with the strongest yet gentlest of spirits, who amid wafts of Chanel No 5 was forever whizzing up good things in the kitchen while the chatter of guests floated through from the other room. She was a genius at making a lot out of a little (my dad, Michael Bourdeaux, founded a charity and research institute that championed human rights and freedom of religion, so there wasn’t a lot of money around). When Mum became ill with breast cancer (I was 14), it…

Sparkling wine cocktails are wonderfully festive, but don’t buy expensive fizz as a lot of the complexity is lost in the mix. An inexpensive, dry (brut) cava provides a neutral base or, for a slightly sweeter result, choose off-dry prosecco (good for bellinis). For a more champagne-like richness, use a good crémant (especially from Bourgogne) Barcelona blush SERVES 7-8. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, PLUS COOLING Raspberries have a great affinity with sparkling wine, and the tart bitters and festive mandarin make this a bright cocktail that’s light enough for brunch. SUSY’S TIPS I like fruit pulp in a drink; strain the coulis and discard the pulp if you prefer. The coulis will keep in the fridge for up to 2 days, or in the freezer for up to 3 months.…

MIDWEEK PROMISE Your guarantee for every recipe in this section: NO MORE THAN… •  10 ingredients• 30 min hands-on time• 650 calories per portion (but many of the recipes have fewer)• 10g sat fat per portion PLUS… • No unnecessary added sugar• Minimal washing up THE TRAYBAKE Butternut squash, chicken and tarragon traybake SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR FOOD TEAM’S TIP Double or halve the quantities for more or fewer guests. •  4 tbsp olive oil• 3 tbsp dijon mustard• 1 large unpeeled butternut squash, deseeded and cut into 2cm chunks• 8 British free-range chicken thighs, bone-in and skin-on• ½ bunch fresh oregano• ½ bunch fresh tarragon, roughly chopped• Finely grated zest 1 lemon, remainder thickly sliced TO SERVE (OPTIONAL) • Hot buttered rice or steamed greens 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/ 180°C fan/gas 6.…

“Salmon roulade may conjure up visions (or memories) of 1970s dinner parties, but this is an update on the savoury salmon swirl. I’ve given it fresh new flavours by swapping the traditional spongy casing for a speckled dill pancake filled with fresh herbs, then pepped the whole thing up with cream cheese spiked with preserved lemons and horseradish. Smoked salmon is still the star of the show, but it’s partnered with bold flavours that stand up to it. A star is reborn.” ELLA TARN, COOKERY ASSISTANT Horseradish and preserved lemon salmon roulade SERVES 10 AS PART OF A BUFFET OR 6-8 AS A STARTER. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 10 MIN, PLUS 2 HOURS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Make the cream cheese up to 12 hours in advance and keep…

We began by calling this ‘The entertaining issue’, but when it came to writing that on the cover I realised the term is offputting in its formality. It’s reminiscent of 1970s dinner parties when cheese and pineapple on sticks, napkins folded into swans and competitive cooking were de rigeur. That’s not the delicious. way. My idea of a great night is one where the food is memorable, not intimidating, laughter rings out, conversation is lively and there’s a sense of time standing still. Our food team began with a simple question: what do we really love to eat? From there the ideas evolved into scores of recipes, including those in your fifth special Collector’s Edition on Spice (see between p98 and 99). I know I’ll be making them…

10-13 The Cake and Bake Show, Manchester Get the inside scoop from baking superstars, including Eric Lanlard, Richard Bertinet and Rosemary Shrager, at this celebration of all things iced. With showstopping cakes, competitions and baking supplies to take home, you won’t be short of sweet inspiration. Adult tickets £12.50 (children under six free); thecakeandbakeshow.co.uk/manchester 19-20 ChocFest, Melton Mowbray Taking over a town famed for its pork pies, this sweet offering is new for 2016. Load up with mouthwatering goodies – perfect for the festive season – and try your hand at crafting your own truffles and chocs. Tickets £4; goleicestershire.com/events/chocfest.aspx 17-20 Taste of London: The Festive Edition The summer mega bonanza slims down for winter at London’s Tobacco Dock. Tuck into signature dishes from top restaurants,…

1 EASTERN PROMISE Famous for its Tiptree preserves, British company Wilkin & Sons has brought out a range of liqueurs made with top-notch gin from fellow Essex company Hayman’s. Our taste test gave a thumbs-up to the English damson and raspberry liqueurs. £19.99 for 350ml, tiptree.com 2 TEUTONIC ENGINEERING Another excellent autumnal liqueur, handcrafted by Germans, the sloe gin from Elephant is warming, balanced and fruity with a peppery, slightly medicinal (in a good way) sweetness. £33 for 50cl, Selfridges and elephant-gin.com 3 FROM GOD’S OWN COUNTRY Last but by no means least is Sloemotion Sloe Gin – handmade with sloes plucked from Yorkshire hedgerows (see p9). It has a herbal complexity that’s proper palate-pleasing. Just add ice… £26.95 for 70cl, available from independent stores and…

HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste experts. We conduct our tests without packaging, so our tasters don’t know who produced each product or how much it costs. And to prevent one tester influencing another, the panel aren’t allowed to confer during the tests, so the results you read below are unbiased. WHAT WE LOOKED FOR A posh pâté in a pretty Kilner jar is a great dinner party gift. We looked for pâtés with style and substance – rich, deep flavour and good presentation. SUPERMARKET WINNER Banquet Terrine, £10 for 330g, Marks & Spencer This traditional jar won praise for its rich, savoury taste and its layers, with smooth pâté giving way to a chunky terrine. JOINT SUPERMARKET RUNNER-UP Chicken Liver Parfait, £10 for 270g, Marks & Spencer The…

“ When we were growing up, my sister and I couldnÕt wait to get stuck into pomegranates. Mum would give us half each, and weÕd sit and pick at them for ages, staining our shirts in the process. I still love the vibrant, refreshing taste, which gives a colourful blast to November and pairs so brilliantly with sweet and savoury ingredients. Whether youÕre garnishing desserts or cocktails with the jewel-like seeds, or pairing pomegranate juice or molasses with chicken or juicy lamb, itÕs the perfect way to elevate your cooking.” LOTTIE COVELL, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR Seek out fruit with taut, red, leathery skin that’s relatively unblemished and firm. When you cut into the fruit, the seeds (technically called arils) should be vibrant pink and juicy,…

“Making Sunday dinner sacrosanct is better than forcing a shared meal on hectic weeknights” Family meals – eaten with or without festive paper hats – are hailed as the ultimate way to nourish mind, body and spirit. A quick internet search of ‘family meals’ turns up a slew of research that claims to link communal eating with a range of benefits: reduced risk of childhood obesity, greater chance of happiness for adults, improved exam results for teenagers and even lower incidence of drug use among adolescents are all linked to regular family meals. No one could seriously challenge that eating together is A Good Thing. A meal enjoyed with our nearest and dearest can be a calming punctuation point in a hectic day, an important chance to share worries, catch…

“A host is like a general: calamities often reveal his genius.” HORACE, ROMAN POET Slow-cooked lamb shank and red wine hotpot SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 3 HOURS 20-30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Cool, then freeze the ragù at the end of step 4 in a freezerproof container for up to 1 month; defrost before continuing with the recipe. Or store in the fridge for 48 hours. FOOD TEAM’S TIP The pattern of the potato topping leaves a certain amount of wastage. Boil the off-cuts until tender, then mash, cool and freeze. It will give you mashed potato for 2-3 people or can be used to top a fish or shepherd’s pie. Alternatively, slice the potatoes into rounds to top the hotpot – you’ll need about 3…

Make a seasonal centrepiece You can create a beautiful, inexpensive floral runner or centrepiece like the one on p55 using offcuts and odds and ends. Use greenery from your garden or ask your florist for a bundle of single stems or trimmings from seasonal winter greenery and flowers. Snip into short stems (10-15cm) and keep them in a jug of water somewhere cold until ready to use. To arrange, start with some pillar candles and small succulents, cacti or other plants in small terracotta pots (reuse them afterwards for windowsill herbs or in the garden). Arrange in groups of twos and threes, then begin layering the foliage between the candles and pots – it’s easiest to do both sides at once so you achieve a good balance, tucking in any…

“A love of ginger seems to run in my family. My grandfather made a mean ginger beer in his shed, cousin Sue would eat ginger flavoured food every day if she could, and Mum loved a piece of preserved (stem)   ginger straight out of its jar of syrup. I love it too, but prefer the tangy, sweet-yet-hot flavour of the fresh root, which comes from a tropical plant. I cook a lot of Indian and Asian-style dishes, and I whip through a big piece at an alarming rate. Ginger has been used in Asia for culinary and medicinal purposes for 5,000 years, but its use in British cooking is a more recent development. It was probably brought here by the Romans who imported it from the East. The breaking…

“We’re relaxed about bubbly these days, enjoying it more informally and more often – and when it comes to the fizzy stuff, we’ve never had it so good. With the rise of prosecco, exciting new English sparklers and the enduring majesty of champagne, fizz is having a moment. It makes joyful cocktails, too, and we’re pairing it happily with food. Here’s my guide to getting the party going: what to buy, what to serve when – and how.” SUSY ATKINS, WINE EDITOR FIVE-STEP GUIDE TO OPENING BUBBLY 1 Make sure the wine is cool before opening (it tastes better and the cork is less likely to shoot out, followed closely by the contents of the bottle). 2 To get a good grip on the bottle if it’s wet, wrap in…

“I knew I’d never be able to keep my pregnancy a secret because as soon as I refused a drink people would guess – and so they did, despite my carefully concocted tale of obscure medication. I’m someone who thinks no good dinner is complete without wine, who lists sitting in fancy bars drinking cocktails as a favourite hobby. Needless to say I’ve found enforced temperance to be something of an uphill battle – no earth mother ‘I just don’t miss it’ affirmations from me. I’ve tried an impressive selection of alcohol-free drinks, in the hope that you can sort the wheat beer from the chaff. Whether you’re not drinking over the festive season because of pregnancy, health reasons, you’ve volunteered to drive, or you’re catering for guests who are…

“Most meat-eaters have a standby recipe that can be converted into lots of different dishes with minimal effort, but for vegetarians the options are more limited. This meatless ragù is easy to prepare, full of flavour and so versatile – you may as well cook up a double batch while you’re in the kitchen and freeze half. And because it’s packed full of veg and pulses, it’s also filling while keeping low on the calorie and fat front – a winner whichever way you look at it.” REBECCA WOOLLARD, FOOD EDITOR  THE MASTER RECIPE All-purpose veggie ragù SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 20-30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the ragù up to 2 days in advance; cover and keep chilled. Or freeze for up to a month, then…

The magic of Christmas lies in the spirit of giving – and there’s no better way to embrace it than with Breast Cancer Care’s annual carol service. Held in the stunning St Paul’s Church in Knightsbridge, London, it’s an evening of traditional carol singing, with performances from two of London’s leading choirs as well as celebrity readings. We’ll be there, handing out warm mince pies and mulled wine. After the carols, join delicious. editor Karen Barnes and food editor Rebecca Woollard for an intimate two-course supper with wine and live entertainment at the Jumeirah Carlton Tower Hotel. All funds raised enable Breast Cancer Care to offer support and information to women affected by breast cancer. WHEN Monday 5 December, 7–11pm TICKETS £165 for the service and supper. To buy tickets,…

Dakota Deluxe • This design hotel chain opened its impressive Glasgow branch in spring 2016. Besides being spanking new, the rooms are tastefully decorated, the hotel’s centrally located, and the Dakota Deluxe restaurant and bar are destinations in their own right. Doubles from £126 per night including breakfast. glasgow.dakotahotels.co.uk • Malmaison A smart, good value, mid-range hotel with a lively bar and the Honours restaurant in the basement. Doubles from £85 per night. malmaison.com…

The InterContinental London Park Lane is offering you the chance to win 24 hours of culinary pleasure. The winner and guest will join the award-winning chef Theo Randall for a seasonal masterclass, learning how to prepare classic Italian dishes using the finest, freshest ingredients. Take a break for lunch and let the hotel’s head sommelier lead you in a wine tasting before you sit down to a three-course feast inspired by the morning’s cooking. At the end of the evening, full of inspiration (and a whole lot of gorgeous food), you’ll retire to one of the hotel’s sumptuous rooms for the night before completing your visit with breakfast the next morning. Finally, as a memory of your wonderful prize, you’ll take home a copy of Theo’s classic cookbook, My Simple…

STAR EMAIL SUBJECT: A world of flavours FROM: Alice Booth I’ve loved making the recipes from your recent Tastes Like Home Special [July 2016, p60] and Sharing Food [September 2016, p50] articles, featuring brilliant cooks from all over the world who’ve made their home in the UK. The Eritrean zigni berbere stew was fantastic; we even visited our local Ethiopian restaurant to get some injera bread to make it truly authentic! What better way to celebrate the diversity and richness of cultures that we have here in Britain than through incredible food and celebrating community? I’d love to see more features like this, with international recipes and stories from amateur chefs around the country. SUBJECT: Lighter eating joy FROM: Leanne Grindal I’m a busy working mum of two, with a…

MY COOKING HERO My father played a big role in my passion for cooking. He had to know where everything came from. If we had a chicken he wanted to know who the farmer was, how well he had kept the chicken and when he had slaughtered it. We cooked a great deal of fish and game too, because my father used to hunt. ALWAYS LOCAL, ALWAYS SEASONAL When I was just 10 I started working in the kitchens of local restaurants. It was around then that I began to understand the importance of seasonal ingredients. We only ate food from our region of Italy, not from other parts, because it wasn’t easy to get hold of. MEMORABLE SUNDAY FEASTS On Sundays about 25 of my family members would gather…

FOR PUDDING FANS Pride and Pudding (£20; Murdoch Books) Written, photographed and designed by the talented Regula Ysewijn (aka blogger Miss Foodwise), this is one of the most beautiful and well researched books to land on our desks this year. It’s a history of what’s (arguably) Britain’s greatest claim to culinary fame: puddings – sweet, savoury, boiled, steamed and baked – from the 14th century to now. FOR THE THOUGHTFUL COOK Gather (£25; Quadrille) Nigella tweeted that this book from Gill Meller, head chef at River Cottage, Òdoes for contemporary British food what Ottolenghi has done for contemporary Middle Eastern cookingÓ. We couldn’t agree more. Creative recipes are sorted into chapters such as Farm, Seashore, Garden, Field and Woodland, using plenty of home-grown and foraged ingredients. A book…

“According to legend, the captain decided that stale balls of Dutch cheese would make suitable replacements for cannonballs” 1 TEACHING YOUR GRANNY TO SUCK EGGS We all know what it means: don’t offer advice to someone who has more experience than you do – and most of us have said it. The one thing we’ve never done? Question it. After all, when was the last time you saw anyone – grandparent or otherwise – suck an egg? As you’d imagine, the phrase is an old one, dating back to at least 1707, when the expression “You would have me teach my Grandame to suck Eggs” appeared in John Stevens’ translation of The Comical Works of Don Francisco de Quevedo , a Spanish writer. 2 TOO MANY COOKS SPOIL THE BROTH…

TEAM FAVOURITE Hugh Thompson, deputy chief sub editor “A simple dish that’s utterly gorgeous – sweet-salty clams in a comforting pasta tangle with hints of chilli, garlic and fresh parsley.” MEET ANGELA Chef Angela Hartnett was awarded an MBE in 2007 for services to the hospitality industry. The following year she opened Murano in London’s Mayfair, winning a Michelin star four months later. In 2013, she opened Cafe Murano (there are now two London branches) and joined forces with chef Luke Holder to create Hartnett Holder & Co at Lime Wood Hotel in Hampshire. This is a dish I cook again and again during the colder months when clams are at their best Angela Hartnett’s spaghetti alle vongole SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, PLUS SOAKING Sometimes, when you’re busy…

Starters Twice-baked butternut squash and sage soufflés Asian-style scampi with spiced herb relish Roast beetroot, hazelnuts and goat’s cheese Potted hot-smoked salmon with onion and apple pickle Mains Slow-cooked lamb shank and red wine hotpot Baked gnocchi with cream, mushrooms and blue cheese sauce Crispy fennel pork belly with herb salsa Glazed onglet steak with brown butter mash, crispy shallots and madeira Sides Honey and balsamic roasted heritage carrots with hazelnuts Manchego and soured cream crusted pumpkin Cabbage, kale and potato rösti Crispy parmesan and oregano roasties Puddings Sticky toffee poached pear cake Lemon curd meringue tarts Bananas Foster cheesecake Coconut macaroon and chocolate mousse tart How to plan the perfect meal KEEP THINGS SIMPLE Nothing says confidence like presenting an uncomplicated, perfectly cooked meal. If you have a lot…

Honey and balsamic roasted heritage carrots  with hazelnuts SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 45 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP Heritage carrots come in all different colours and are available from farmers’ markets, larger supermarkets and good greengrocers. They have subtly different flavours, but their main attribute is that they look pretty when cooked together. If you can’t find them, just use ordinary orange carrots. •  4 tbsp olive oil• 2 tbsp honey• 1 tbsp good quality, thick balsamic vinegar• 1.2kg heritage carrots (see tip), topped, scrubbed clean and cut into quarters lengthways• ½ small bunch fresh parsley, roughly chopped• 100g blanched hazelnuts, roughly chopped 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Put 3 tbsp of the oil, the honey and balsamic vinegar into a small mixing bowl and whisk together until…

This November, humanitarian organisation Action Against Hunger is launching its latest campaign – The Great Get Together (see right). Join the celebration and show thanks for the food you have by helping raise funds for those around the world who don’t have enough. Gather together friends and family, share a wonderful meal and help put an end to child hunger by asking your guests for donations in return. The special three-course delicious. menu below is full of autumnal flavours, designed to be put in the middle of the table to share. It’s a dinner party with a difference. JOIN THE GREAT GET TOGETHER Action Against Hunger helps to save the lives of malnourished children around the world. By taking part in The Great Get Together on Thursday 24 November you…

Chetna’s saffron and pistachio Christmas cake SERVES 14-16. HANDS-ON TIME 3 HOURS, OVEN TIME 2 HOURS 40 MIN MAKE AHEAD The cake will keep for a week in an airtight container (minus the caramel hazelnuts), or can be frozen, undecorated, for up to six months. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS NOTE It’s best to make the caramel hazelnuts in a cool room (step 7). Put kitchen paper on the floor to catch any drips. It takes a while to make them all, and they tend to droop after 2-3 hours. To save time just make a few or put extra ground pistachios on the top. •  450g sultanas• 300g dried cranberries• 225ml brandy, plus 2 tbsp extra• 150ml fresh orange juice• 75ml milk• 1-2 pinches saffron (depends on taste)• 300g unsalted butter, softened• 300g soft brown sugar• 300g self-raising flour• 75g…

• Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc AOP, France (£7.49, Lidl) Bargain Burgundy fizz – dry but quite rich, slightly toasty and good with savoury party snacks. • Heretat El Padruell Cava Rosé Brut, Penedès, Spain (£8, Marks & Spencer) A balanced, lively rosado singing with red cherries. Pass round a plate of jamón and sliced chorizo. • Tesco Finest 1531 Blanquette de Limoux, France (£9) I love the biscuity hints in this crisp and zingy, apple-laced French fizz. Dry and refreshing. • Maschio Extra Dry Prosecco, Treviso, Italy (£9, down to £6 until 30 Nov, Morrisons) Very frothy with a dash of lemon sherbet and an off-dry finish. Simple, bargain party fizz. • Bird in Hand Sparkling Pinot Noir 2016, Australia (£14.95, or £12.95 each for three or more in November; tanners-wine.co.uk) Soft strawberry and redcurrant…

Lebanese rice and lentils (mujaddara) SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN MAKE AHEAD The crispy onions will keep in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to 12 hours. Re-crisp in a low oven before serving. FOOD TEAM’S TIP We have to credit Ottolenghi with introducing us to this comforting Arab dish, to which we’ve added a garlicky yogurt side. •  500ml sunflower oil• 4 onions, finely sliced• Generous handful plain flour, well seasoned with salt• 200g green or brown lentils• 2-3 tbsp olive oil• 2 tbsp cumin seeds• 2 tbsp coriander seeds• ½ tsp ground turmeric• 1½ tsp ground cinnamon• 250g basmati rice• Large pinch caster sugar• Small bunch fresh coriander FOR THE GARLIC YOGURT • 250ml Greek yogurt• 3 spring onions, finely sliced• 1 garlic clove, crushed• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 Heat the sunflower oil in a large,…

• Drygate Brewery (drygate.com) In Scotland, as elsewhere, craft brews have invigorated the market, and in Glasgow the big story is Drygate Brewery. It’s a tale in which David took on Goliath, they discovered they had a lot in common, then sat down for a few bevvies. The Wellpark Brewery in Glasgow’s East End, surrounded by council tower blocks, is responsible for more sair heids than a lifetime of Celtic-Rangers derbies; it’s where Tennent’s Lager is made. With a 60 per cent market share, the brewery produces more cheap lager than Aberdeen currently produces barrels of oil. The chaps at small, artisanal Drygate needed a site, and in 2014 they struck a deal with the big boys. So now – huddling in a corner of the Tennent’s empire – is an…

THE BEST OF THE UK Bath Charming wooden chalets (170 in all) line the streets around the city’s historic Abbey (left) and Roman Baths – a beautiful setting that’s hard to beat. Almost 90 per cent of exhibitors are either Bath-based, or from the surrounding areas, and the market prides itself on highlighting the best the South West has to offer. You’ll find local cheeses including Bath Blue and Wyfe of Bath, oils, spices, artisan chocolates, Christmas puddings, craft beers, wines from local vineyards, Bath Ale, Bath Gin and, of course, West Country ciders. 24 November to 11 December; bathchristmasmarket.co.uk Edinburgh It’s not just Hogmanay north of the border. Head to Edinburgh from mid-November onwards and you’ll find all kinds of festive celebrations going on, including a Scottish…

“Being vegetarian doesn’t automatically make you an ethical eater” More and more Brits are turning vegetarian: there are now as many as 3 million. It’s good that people are being thoughtful about what they eat, and if they are rejecting meat because of the moral issue of eating another living being, fine. But if they’re eschewing it because they see meat production as cruel and a polluter of the planet, that makes me furious. Such misunderstandings about meat cause the devaluing of one of the most rich and skilful parts of Britain’s food culture. Not all meat is ethically produced, of course. But over the last 30 years I’ve spoken to hundreds of farmers around the UK and my conclusion is that scale and place matter – and so does…