Hurrah for new Italian whites in the shops this summer, making a welcome change from oceans of rather dull pinot grigio (PG).
Italy has plenty of white grape varieties – many from the hot, volcanic south. Greco di tufo delivers fresh apple and pear flavours, while falanghina is more peachy. I like fiano, mainly grown in Sicily, for its juicy citrus streak. All tend to be dry and unoaked but with more personality than PG – better, frankly, for summer food, such as fish, seafood, creamy pasta sauces or green veg such as courgettes, globe artichokes or fennel. So if you want more characterful Italian whites this season, head south.
From Sicily, Truly Irresistible Fiano 2014, Benevento, Italy (The Co-operative, £6.99) is a gold medal-winning star, tasting of juicy satsumas…
