Innholdsfortegnelse for Nov-18 i Delicious UK

PHOTOGRAPH: PAUL MITCHELL “I can hardly believe 15 years have passed since the launch of delicious. magazine, and it’s a privilege to have been the editor for eight of those years. Where did that almost-decade go? Since we began we’ve had three addresses, produced 18 babies among us, created 11,611 recipes (including 84 cheesecakes and 796 chicken dishes) and used 5,430 packets of butter and a staggering 33,304 eggs. What a list! When we sat down to plan this issue, we debated how to mark our special celebration in an exciting yet genuinely useful way and decided the anniversary was a fine excuse to gather the ‘best of everything’ in one issue: 10 all-time favourite recipes, each given a sensational new twist; favourite books from top food writers; the best…

CHEF’S (FAMILY) PERKS I’m lucky that my dad is a chef, so when I was growing up we ate home-cooked shepherd’s pie, hotpots and roasts on a Sunday. On your birthday you could choose what you wanted for dinner. I always chose toad in the hole. Even now, it throws me back to that time. LEARNING CURVES As far back as I can remember I was baking with mum or helping Dad. My first time in a professional kitchen I was about eight years old, making toast on a Saturday. I didn’t have a clue about TV chefs and Michelin stars. My dad wasn’t from that background. He calls himself a pea and chip chef but he’s much more than that. THE BIG SMOKE I went to college for a…

If I told you I was a flexitarian would you cringe? Throw a pie at my head? Dismiss me as an indecisive fence-sitter? If, like me, you’re a food lover who isn’t ‘into’ labels, it’s hard to know what to call yourself. I tend to go with ‘mostly vegetarian’, or perhaps a half-baked vegan. I’m big on nut butters, I tinker with tofu and tempeh, I rarely cook or eat meat at home... but I still flirt with a carbonara on a regular basis because I haven’t made my status official. I’m just trying to consume fewer animal products and put plants at the centre of my diet instead. Meat and me: it’s complicated. I’m not the only one. While the modern food scene can feel like a battlefield, with…

Welsh rarebit topped fish pie SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, SIMMERING TIME 25 MIN, GRILLING TIME 10-15 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the rarebit sauce and mashed potato up to a day ahead, then cool, cover and chill (separately) until needed. • 600ml whole milk • 300ml whipping cream • 350g sustainable cod fillet, cut into large chunks • 250g sustainable smoked haddock fillet, cut into large chunks • 200g sustainable raw peeled king or tiger prawns • 100g unsalted butter • 45g plain flour • 125g frozen petits pois, defrosted by blanching in boiling water • 1kg floury potatoes, such as maris piper, peeled FOR THE WELSH RAREBIT SAUCE • 100g cheddar, grated • 2 tsp cornflour • 100ml stout or porter beer • 1 tbsp English mustard •…

Sloe gin ‘figgy’ Christmas pudding SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 9½ HOURS, PLUS OVERNIGHT SOAKING Steam the pudding as in step 4, cool completely, then cover and store in an airtight container in a cool place for up to 2 months. KNOWHOW According to tradition, everyone in the household is meant to give the pudding mixture a stir as it’s being made, stirring from east to west, while making a wish. To watch how to prepare a pudding for steaming, search ‘How to wrap a pudding for steaming’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you need to free up hob space, steam the pudding before cooking your lunch veg, then take off the heat. Covered, the pud will stay warm for ages. • 125g sultanas • 125g…

Roast onion, smoked bacon & gruyère tarts MAKES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 45 MIN, PLUS CHILLING ôIt’s worth tracking down smoked bacon in one piece from your butcher – it will have much more flavour and be less watery than pre-packed bacon slices.” MAKE AHEAD Wrap the pastry tightly in cling film and keep chilled for up to 2 days. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you’re pushed for time, use a food processor for step 1 (see Annie’s tips). FOR THE PASTRY • 250g plain flour, plus extra to dust • 125g unsalted butter, chilled and diced • 4 tbsp ice-cold water • 1 tsp vinegar (cider or white wine) FOR THE FILLING • 4 small onions • 2 tbsp olive oil • 200g rindless smoked…

It’s Christmas Eve and the Stahlbaum family are hosting a party. Clara’s godfather gives her a beautiful toy nutcracker as a gift. That night, Clara creeps downstairs to see her nutcracker and, as the clock strikes midnight, it comes to life. Clara finds herself in the midst of a battle between the nutcracker’s gingerbread soldiers and an army of mice led by the Mouse King. In the battle, Clara saves the day by hitting the Mouse King with her shoe. The nutcracker transforms into a handsome prince and whisks Clara away to the Land of Sweets, ruled in his absence by the Sugarplum Fairy. All the treats dance for Clara – Arabian coffee, Chinese tea, Spanish chocolate, Mother Ginger and her brood, and, of course, the Sugarplum Fairy. Clara and…

There’s something so comforting about an Italian meal. Fresh ingredients with big flavours, cooked simply to give great-tasting dishes that never fail to bring friends and family together. Choosing the right ingredients is key to getting Italian dishes right. It’s not just about fresh fruit and veg and locally sourced meat and fish – your pantry should also be well stocked. When it comes to storecupboard essentials, Napolina is the best choice for home cooks who are passionate about Italian food. The brand always honours its roots, from using tomatoes grown on Italy’s sun-kissed slopes to following a traditional Modena recipe for its balsamic vinegar. Use Napolina’s versatile range to whip up this roast cod with romesco sauce and lentils next time you’re entertaining. Deceptively simple and packed with Mediterranean…

Beef, pork, lamb or veal, mince is a great kitchen standby. It uses off-cuts from prime joints and parts of the animal that are less popular, which keeps the cost down. But what is good mince? BUY FOR FLAVOUR Aged beef mince from a grass-fed native breed will have more flavour than mince from a fast-grown animal that's been hung for less time. Meat naturally changes colour as it ages, so brown-red mince doesn't mean it's not up to scratch. STANDARD MINCE OR LOW FAT? Most standard beef mince, from a supermarket or butcher, contains up to 20% fat, while lean beef mince generally has no more than 7%. Pork and lamb mince can have up to 35% and 25% fat respectively. There are potential health benefits to eating low-fat…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPHS: STUART WEST. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR Stilton and watercress chicken kiev SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN, OVEN TIME 20 MIN, PLUS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Make the flavoured butter up to a month ahead and keep in cling film in the freezer (defrost overnight in the fridge). Prep the chicken breasts up to the end of step 5, cover loosely with cling film, then keep in the fridge for up to a day. KNOWHOW Chicken supremes are chicken breasts with the wing bone still attached. Good butchers sell them, or buy online from ocado.com. If you can’t get them, large chicken breasts would work fine. • 100g unsalted butter, slightly softened • 50g stilton, crumbled • 2-3 garlic cloves, crushed • 50g watercress, finely…

THE COOKERY SCHOOL Get ready for christmas WHERE The School of Artisan Food, Nottinghamshire ( schoolofartisanfood.org ) THE COURSE Christmas Preserves, £175 for a one-day course, including refreshments and a great lunch TESTERKaren Barnes, editor WHAT IT’S LIKE I’m a sucker for the idea of giving friends homemade treats from my kitchen. It’s wholesome and it appeals to my alter ego, who lives in a farmhouse and spends her days writing novels and filling the larder with neatly arrayed, gleaming pots of jams, chutneys and preserves. The three most satisfying, calming moments: the house imbued with spicy-fruity aromas as you stir a pan of bubbling goodness; handwriting labels and sticking them in position; then giving away the fruits of your labours, jar by precious jar. Yes, preserving is…

1 VISIT… the Charles Dickens Museum in London WC1, where a new exhibition, starting on 28 November, will explore Victorian food as served by Dickens at home and cooked up by his characters. On Thursday 6 December 6.30-8.30pm, you can join the exhibition’s guest curator, food historian Pen Vogler, for an after-hours visit to try treats such as smoking bishop jelly and Dickens’ punch. Discounted tickets for delicious. readers cost £15 (numbers are limited); to book (from 1 November) call 020 7405 2127 or book online using the code ‘delicious175’; dickensmuseum.com 2 EAT… at Dusty Knuckle Pizza, 2018 winner of the Sustainable Restaurant Association People’s Favourite Restaurant award, as voted for by the public (including delicious. readers). Run by a husband and wife duo, the Cardiff eatery won praise for…

“Happy birthday, delicious.!” PRUE LEITH “Congratulations on 15 years of delicious. inspiration. The magazine is a sheer joy to read and long  may it reign.” MATT TEBBUTT “Huge congrats on your 15th birthday. delicious. is always inspiring, keeping me on my culinary toes. Thanks, too, for always being supportive of me and my career. Cheers to another 15 delish years – hic hic hooray!” CHING-HE HUANG “Happy birthday and thanks for all the deliciousness!” NIGELLA LAWSON “Happy birthday dear delicious.! 15 years of inspirational magazines published. What an outstanding achievement!” ANNA HANSEN “Happy happy birthday to everyone at delicious. To make great food you need happy  people, so enjoy celebrating a wonderful 15 years.” DAN DOHERTY “Many happy returns to delicious. magazine and the lovely people making it.” YOTAM OTTOLENGHI…

• The Flexible Vegetarian by Jo Pratt (Frances Lincoln £20) One dish, two ways to eat it – Jo Pratt’s stylish veggie recipes cater for both camps, with optional meat and fish when you want it. • The Modern Cook’s Year by Anna Jones (Fourth Estate £26) Hailed as ‘the new Nigella’, Jones puts plants at the centre of every dish. • VB6: Eat Vegan Before 6:00 to Lose Weight and Restore Your Health... For Good by Mark Bittman (Sphere £13.99) Vegan by day, omni by night… This bestselling 2013 diet plan set the pace for future flexitarians. • The Reducetarian Solution by Brian Kateman (TarcherPerigee £13.99) Different word, same concept. Kateman argues that reducing our meat consumption by even as little as 10 per cent could radically change our…

RICK STEIN “When I was writing my first cookery book, English Seafood Cookery (Penguin), in 1987, Jane Grigson’s Fish Cookery (David & Charles, 1973) was both an inspiration and a source of complete misery, as I realised I could never write such a book myself. I guess some people regard it as a bit worthy because there are no pictures and few illustrations, but in those days serious cookery books were like that. It had some wonderful writing and comprehensive coverage of matjes, herrings, croakers and weever fish. I was lucky enough to meet Jane; she came to Padstow and ate in the restaurant, and for me it was a bit like Bob Dylan popping in for Dover sole. Then I discovered she was a judge for the Glenfiddich Awards,…

Roast pork & crackling with apples, fennel seed, sage, lemon & thyme SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 60-65 MIN, PLUS RESTING “Perfect crackling relies on the pork skin being totally dry. Take the pork out of its packaging as soon as you can, thoroughly dry the skin with kitchen paper, then leave it uncovered in the bottom of the fridge, well away from other food, for at least 24 hours (48 would be better). Make sure the skin is scored properly, down through to the fat, and salt it only as it goes in the oven, not before.” • 2kg British free-range boneless pork loin, rolled and skin scored (your butcher can do this for you) • 1 red onion, cut into 8-10 wedges • 8 small…

“A simple fact: I love duck. When I see it on a menu I can’t resist it. Roast, braised, casseroled, poached, minced… Farmed or wild, it’s the feathered equivalent of the pig as it fulfils so many roles. I’m happiest when I restrict myself to one style of duck cookery – and it has to be that from the southwest of France, from Cognac to the Pyrenées. There, duck is served in unchanging ways: in slow-cook casseroles with beans or lentils, as large rare breasts grilled with herbs and garlic, in pâtés and terrines… Duck livers appear in salads, while the meat is shredded as rillettes and its copious fat rendered to use for roasting potatoes or for a gratin. I’ve adapted some classics for the menus in my pub…

• You can use a food processor for step 1 of all these recipes but I prefer to make pastry by hand for a better texture – try it. • Use good quality ingredients: the best unsalted butter and free-range eggs. • Butter or other fats should be fridge-cold unless otherwise instructed. • Liquids should be cold unless otherwise stated. • If your hands are warm, run them and your wrists under cold water for 30 seconds, then dry well. • Have all the ingredients weighed out and prepared before starting to mix, then work briskly. Pastry needs a quick, light touch. • Chilling pastry after mixing and again before rolling is a vital step, as this allows the gluten in the flour to relax and the fat to firm…

1 The ballet received a lukewarm reception on its debut just before Christmas 1892 and Tchaikovsky died less than a year later, not knowing his creation would go on to be a world classic. 2 Music from Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker Suite (a collection of eight of the most popular compositions from the ballet) has featured in numerous adverts, films, video games, rap and reggae performances – including The Simpsons in 2005 and Disney’s 1940 film Fantasia. 3 The ballet is based on an ETA Hoffmann story (see p83 for a precis) that featured a Clara, but it was the name of one of the dolls, not the main character. 4 Tchaikovsky heard the celesta, a newly invented instrument, in Paris in 1891 and asked his publisher, Pyotr Jurgenson, to acquire…

“Why would anyone leave the Christmas drinks shopping until the last minute? It’s so easy to stock up in advance, nothing is going to go off and, anyway, choosing the festive booze is far too important to leave to a flustered trolley dash. So here, well in advance of the big festivities, is a selection of bargain wines for parties, smarter ones for special moments, plus some chic but simple cocktails. That’s your bottle shop, sorted.” SUSY ATKINS, WINE EDITOR Cocktails If you’re mixing cocktails for a group, stick to easy recipes based around a key spirit. Here are five classics (or, rather, my twists on classics) that work well when made up in volume. All serve 10, they can be prepped swiftly using jugs rather than fiddly cocktail shakers…

Prawns pil pil with chorizo and peppers SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you can’t find padrón peppers, use sliced green pepper instead. • 5 tbsp olive oil • 120g padrón peppers (from large supermarkets; see tip) • 3 fat garlic cloves, finely sliced • 2 banana shallots, finely sliced • 200g raw sustainable king prawns, peeled and deveined • Large pinch sweet smoked paprika • 2 ready-roasted red peppers from a jar, thinly sliced • Handful fresh flatleaf parsley, chopped • Toasted sourdough to serve • Lemon wedges for squeezing 1 Heat a frying pan over a high heat until very hot. Add a splash of oil and fry the padrón peppers, turning, for 3-4 minutes until charred. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a…

Cook the pan brownie on our cover and you could win a two-night midweek break for two at the Salcombe Harbour Hotel & Spa, with a gin-making lesson at the Salcombe Gin School. Your stay includes a three-course dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, The Jetty, and you’ll wake up to views of the estuary and a full English breakfast each morning. At the nearby Salcombe Gin Distillery, Bar and Gin School you’ll enjoy a guided tour with a Salcombe & tonic in hand, before distilling your own bespoke 70cl bottle of gin in a mini copper pot still. Experiment with your new gin in the bar afterwards before heading home with an elegant pair of Spanish-style G&T glasses. salcombegin.com; harbourhotels.co.uk FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… Make the pan brownie on…

MEET OUR EXPERTS JEN BEDLOE Food editor SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH Deputy food editor OLIVIA SPURRELL Cookery assistant LUCAS HOLLWEG Chef and food writer THANE PRINCE Food writer, cook and queen of preserving CHEF’S STEP BY STEP p127 Pick up some muslin and make Tom Aikens’ fresh ricotta – it tastes fantastic and is simple to make when you know how delicious. KITCHEN p120 How to cook rice to perfection, along with our no-nonsense guide to adapting recipes to feed a crowd WEEKEND PROJECT p124 Chicken kiev is an old-school classic. Here’s how to DIY it to perfection…

SUSTAINABLILTY Part of our national food heritage, the Atlantic herring has been over-fished in the past, but stock levels are currently in good shape. We don't see herring much today (although it's often sold canned as sild), but what smoked fish counter would be complete without kippers? Herring are an oily fish so they can go off quickly. As a result many countries have learned how to preserve them: cured as rollmops, smoked as kippers, buckling and bloaters, and salted and dried as the rust-brown ‘red herring’. Herring roe (on toast) has always been popular, but we still seem to balk at eating the fish fresh! Herring are delicate in texture, once the bones have been negotiated, and need little adornment except lemon – they’re arguably the least ‘fishy’ of…

• Be thorough with breading. Dust all seams and gaps in flour, egg and breadcrumbs. If a bare patch appears, dip in egg/crumbs again. Taking time now will prevent leaks later. • If the pocket you’ve cut is not the neatest and you’re worried about the shape of the chicken kiev, wrap each butter-stuffed chicken supreme tightly in cling film and chill for at least 1 hour before coating in the flour, egg and breadcrumbs. • Use a good layer of oil in the pan and make sure it’s shimmering hot before adding the chicken to ensure the crumb exterior crisps up in the oil.…

“I love this recipe because it’s so simple and fun to make, as well as being incredibly tasty. You can eat the ricotta in so many ways: as a cheese course with toasted sourdough and chutney, alongside a simple tomato gazpacho with fresh basil, or as a dip with good olive oil and balsamic vinegar, finished with fresh basil and rosemary, as I’ve done here.” TOM AIKENS Homemade ricotta SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, PLUS COOLING AND OVERNIGHT DRAINING “This ricotta is incredibly versatile – use it in puddings instead of crème fraîche or as a base for cheesecakes instead of cream cheese, or sweeten it with honey and serve on toast.” MAKE AHEAD The strained ricotta will keep covered in the fridge for up to 5 days. FOOD…

• Don’t hurry things. It takes time to make and pot a good chutney from start to finish. • Experiment. You can vary the fruit and veg according to the season. Use apricots, mangoes, peaches, nectarines, pears, courgettes or tomatoes instead of the classic apple/plum combo. Vary the spices, too. Add heat with 1-2 tsp chilli flakes or use 1 tsp each of finely chopped ginger, garlic and chilli for spice. Onions are a staple. • Cut all the fruit and veg to the same size so you get an evenly cooked chutney. • Stir the pot regularly. If it burns on the bottom of the pan you’ll have to throw it all away. • Don’t panic if your finished chutney tastes too acidic or sweet. Time will mellow out the flavours.…

THE NORDIC BAKING BOOK As well as being one of the world’s most revered chefs (at the much-lauded Fäviken restaurant in Sweden), Magnus Nilsson is also a chronicler of Nordic food traditions, ingredients and recipes. His new book is an encyclopaedic collection of sweet and savoury bakes from across the region. Phaidon £29.95 BALADI: PALESTINE – A CELEBRATION OF FOOD FROM LAND AND SEA The second book from Joudie Kalla, again celebrating the food of Palestine, where her family’s roots lie. ‘Baladi’ means ‘my home, my land, my country’, and that’s what’s portrayed in the colourful recipes and photography from the Palestinian lands and around. Jacqui Small £26 BLACK SEA: DISPATCHES AND RECIPES Caroline Eden’s lyrical prose weaves together the histories of three great Black Sea cities (Odessa, Istanbul and…

When France banned absinthe a century ago, entrepreneur Paul Ricard commercialised Marseille’s favourite aperitif (in local dialect, ‘pastis’ means to mash up). Marseillaise brands such as Ricard and Pastis 51 owe their flavour to a mix of star anise and liquorice root – products that were shipped to the city from Asia. Take your pick of nearly 100 varieties at La Maison du Pastis (lamaisondupastis.com), just north of the port. Or, in the Noailles neighbourhood, Maison Empereur (empereur.fr) is Marseille’s largest culinary emporium, ideal for a visit in the run-up to Christmas. Gourmands also come to shop for muffin moulds, wood-handled Nontron knives and sturdy pepper grinders.…

STAR EMAIL SUBJECT: Home is where the hearty food is FROM : Amy P My sister and I have just moved into our new flat after years of saving for a deposit. As we’re both keen cooks and love reading delicious. she suggested we buy a subscription together. For our housewarming dinner we made Angela Hartnett’s Italian sharing menu from the September issue [p34], and your October magazine has given us quick weeknight dinners from Ottolenghi [p48] and the perfect sticky toffee pudding recipe for our first Sunday roast [p88]. Thanks to you, our tiny flat feels like the home we’ve always wanted, and we can’t wait to share more of your recipes with friends and family around our new Ikea dining table. SUBJECT: Stop eating everywhere! FROM : Diane…

THE BIG delicious. 15TH BIRTHDAY In recognition of the Big Day, here’s a little birthday list: 10 things that have changed in food while this gorgeous magazine has been on the shelves. 1 Avocado on toast I like to argue that I invented avocado on toast back in the 1980s. No, really. But let’s face it, it’s become quite the fad in the past 15 years, and doesn’t show any sign of going anywhere soon. 2 The gourmet burger Peter Gordon and GBK got there first but knock me down if there aren’t a hundred fancy burger joints these days, closely followed by frou-frou fried chicken and barbecue. Other staples of Southern US food, however, don’t seem to catch on. Which is annoying as I do love gumbo. 3 Japanese…

A flexible lifestyle? The animals aren’t so lucky. Vegan Eleanor Brownlie isn’t a fan of the flexitarian philosophy “Some veggies might feel it’s justifiable choice to eat animal products or even meat from time to time, but each time that ‘choice’ has a victim, an innocent being who has suffered. Cutting down is a start, yes, but if you agree that it is morally wrong, why still consume on some days? A calf somewhere has still had to be ripped away from its mother so you can enjoy that occasional ice cream. The way I see it, a tasty meal is never worth the life of another sentient being.”…

Nouilles aux trésors des bois (pasta with wild mushrooms) “This menu is a celebration of the great French way of life and eating. French cuisine has a reputation for being rich, complex and time-consuming, which it can be, particularly in restaurants. But the home cooking is based on good, local, seasonal ingredients and simple skills. This is the food I was brought up on and still like to eat – the food we enjoy cooking as a family. The dishes are achievable: you don’t need lots of fancy equipment and the ingredients are easy to come by. Cook them for family and friends and discover just how simple and delicious good French food can be.” MICHEL ROUX JR SERVES 6 AS A STARTER. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN “A celebration of…

This autumn, why not brush up on your skills in readiness for Christmas, add something new to your festive repertoire or learn to make foodie gifts. River Cottage has the perfect seasonal courses to inspire you, including: Christmas wreath and garland making, Christmas curing & smoking, Christmas hampers or Christmas Bread & Baking. Visit rivercottage.net/cookery-coursesto see the full cookery school diary. Then, when you book, enter the code DELICIOUS to receive your 10% discount. Offer valid until 30 November 2018 and can be applied to dates until 31 December 2018*…

“Growing up in Delhi, I was surrounded by street food. The smells and rich colours pervade the memories of my childhood, but the flavours that enticed me more than any were those of my mother’s cooking, which was a labour of love. It was from her that I learned so much. We would cook together two or three times a week, always using fresh, quality ingredients from the local market. As well as traditional stews and curries, my mother would re-create street food snacks at home and, in particular, her khasta kachoris were a thing of beauty. Now I’m in London I make them to celebrate Diwali, the Hindu festival of lights, which is on November 7 this year. Khasta kachori can be filled with all kinds of ingredients, from…

Gingerbread soldiers MAKES 25. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 10-15 MIN, PLUS CHILLING AND DECORATING MAKE AHEAD Make the dough up to 2 days ahead, cover and keep in the fridge. Keep the decorated biscuits in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. • 75g black treacle • 75g golden syrup or clear honey • 200g unsalted butter • 180g light brown soft sugar • Finely grated zest and juice 1 lemon • 530-550g plain flour, plus extra • 2 tbsp ground ginger • 2 tbsp ground cinnamon • ½ tsp ground cloves • 1 tsp ground nutmeg • ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda • 1 tsp salt • Sweets, writing icing, fondant icing or whatever you fancy to decorate YOU’LL ALSO NEED… • Soldier…

The ballet was commissioned by the director of Moscow’s Imperial Theatres, Ivan Vsevolozhsky, in 1891. The music was written by Tchaikovsky and the ballet had its debut in St Petersburg the week before Christmas 1892, in a double premiere with Tchaikovsky’s opera Iolanta . The Nutcracker was first performed in England in 1934 and 10 years later in the USA, but it was the ballet’s 1954 staging by Russian-born choreographer George Balanchine for the New York City Ballet that enchanted America and created the colourful spectacle that became a festive favourite. The new Disney version, The Nutcracker and the Four Realms , is a fantasy film loosely based on the original Hoffmann story. It’s out in cinemas now.…

“When the delicious. team asked me to design this cake, the first thing that came to mind was the season. Autumn is my favourite time of year for baking – I love all the spices, the flavours and the cosiness in the kitchen. You can’t go wrong with a carrot cake, and this twist on it is a little bit more earthy and rich to reflect the time of year. The ginger mascarpone frosting helps to lighten it up, but it’s quite indulgent. In place of the caramelised nuts, you could decorate it with some beautiful candied fruit or slices of store-bought confit oranges. You could add a little bit of edible gold leaf to make it more glamorous, or even a few berries. If you’re going to invest time…

Splash-out white Domaine du Vaux Saint Georges Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Touraine, France (£11.99, or £9.99 as part of a mixed six until 1 Jan, Majestic) Refreshing, whistle-clean, lip-smacking sauv blanc from the Loire, streaked through with freshly cut lemon. One for seafood or goat’s cheese starters. Splash-out red Planeta Mamertino 2015, Sicily, Italy (£19.95, greatwesternwine.co.uk  ) A real treat, especially with goose or pheasant, this blend of nocero and nero d’avola grapes delivers fresh plum and cherry fruitcake with complex hints of cocoa and spice. And the fizz… Graham Beck Chardonnay-Pinot Noir Brut NV, Western Cape, South Africa (£14.99, Waitrose) Impressive sparkler balancing crisp bubbles and fresh fruit with richer, creamy depths, finishing up dry, crisp and a little toasty.…

On sale 30 November YOUR BUMPER CHRISTMAS ISSUE YOUR FESTIVE INSPIRATION STARTS HERE... Gloriously prep-ahead Big Day lunch and retro canapés Michel Roux Jr’s crowdpleaser brunch Magical Scandi bakes, snowy cake & the best baked ham Pie-meister Calum Franklin’s coronation chicken pie FREE SPECIAL COLLECTOR’S EDITION TO KEEP & TREASURE Cosmopolitan-swirl cheesecakes, whisky mac stollen, white russian meringue roulade, gimlet lime tart – and many more…

CHARD GRATIN Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4 and butter a gratin dish. Separate 750g rainbow chard into stems and leaves (see p121). Cut the stems into 2cm lengths, then boil for 5 minutes in salted water. Add the leaves and cook for 3 minutes more. Drain, squeezing out excess liquid, then put in the dish. Mix 500g double cream with 2 crushed garlic cloves, salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, then pour over the chard. Scatter 2 handfuls each of breadcrumbs and grated cheddar on top, then bake for 45 minutes until golden. BAKED ONIONS Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Peel 8 red onions and trim the roots. On the hob, melt 25g butter in a roasting tin that will hold the onions snugly. Add the onions…

1 CHORIZO KIEV Whizz 100g butter, 75g chopped chorizo, ½ roasted red pepper from a jar and a pinch each of smoked paprika and salt in a food processor until almost smooth. 2 TRUFFLE KIEV Mix 2 tbsp truffle pesto (we used Sacla’) with 100g softened butter, 75g finely chopped marinated artichokes, 1 crushed garlic clove, a pinch of sea salt flakes and black pepper. 3 KATSU KIEV Fry 1 chopped onion in 40g butter with a pinch of salt. Stir in 1 crushed garlic clove, 2 tsp madras curry powder, 2 tsp soy sauce, 1 tsp honey and salt and pepper to taste. Cool, then mix with 60g softened butter.…

For a thinner ricotta, spoon out of the muslin into a bowl and mix with a little of the reserved whey. Serve with pickled mushrooms, walnuts and fresh tarragon instead of the basil and rosemary. Use leftover whey to brine a whole chicken. Put the chicken in a plastic bag, add the whey, seal and chill for 6-12 hours. Remove from the bag and leave uncovered overnight in the fridge (this will dry out the skin; keep at the bottom of the fridge, well clear of other foods). Roast as usual for juicy meat and crisp skin.…

HOW WE TEST We tested the kits using only the materials provided (or specified) by each one and followed the given instructions closely. Kits were assessed for ease of assembly and/or baking, overall effect and value for money. WHAT WE LOOKED FOR A good gingerbread house kit should contain everything needed to build a sturdy biscuit structure and decorate it. The key requirements are clear instructions, hardworking icing, a variety of decorations and tasty gingerbread. ASSEMBLY ONLY WINNER DIY Hansel & Gretel gingerbread house kit, £35, biscuiteers.com The most expensive kit but beautifully packaged and thought through, with extra piping bags and resealable sweets. Pipeable royal icing and bright decorations are ideal for creating a true showstopper. RUNNER-UP National Trust A la Ronde gingerbread house kit, £16,…

• Maison Montgrand Marseille’s newest foodie hotel has a courtyard with a salon du thé and a pour-your-own wine machine that stocks local wines at cellar prices. The €12 breakfast is overseen by pâtissier Clément Higgins. 35 rue Montgrand, maison-montgrand.com ; doubles from £71 • Mama Shelter Industrial chic meets global cuisine at the city’s hippest haunt. The hotel recently turned its kitchen over to triple Michelin-starred chef Guy Savoy – expect excellent food with a playful element at a good price. 64 rue de la Loubière, mamashelter.com/marseille ; doubles from £79…

It begins with the most innocent of alterations. You’ve run out of caster sugar so you use granulated. Caroline is funny about green pepper so you sub in yellow. Then there’s that evening where you realise you should have started marinating the lamb yesterday and panic-rub three times the amount into the chops, hoping for the best. So far, so forgivable. We’ve all been there. But for some people, the temptation to tinker goes beyond pepper colour to wholesale changes: swapping spices; substituting the couscous of Ottolenghi’s famed green couscous dish for raw cauliflower ‘couscous’ (the inverted commas are for a reason); or spurning the rich oiliness of sardines in Nathan Outlaw’s soused sardines with red cabbage for a preferred, “less fishy” fish such as plaice. In such cases, to…