Innholdsfortegnelse for Sep-18 i Delicious UK

There’sa certain poignancy about September, I always think. It heralds the end of summer (in the case of 2018 a summer to remember for generations) but also, for many, the start of new terms and new beginnings. I look out for the first smell of leafiness that means autumn is on the way, the frisson of a chill in the air, the Victoria creeper already redder than the beetroot on this page only more glossy (always the first leaves to turn). So yes, it’s sad to say goodbye to all those balmy days and nights, but I won’t miss the ridiculously hot commute jostled by red-faced, irritated people elbowing their way to the shady side of the train. And now it’s time to look ahead… How many exciting…

STAR EMAIL SUBJECT: In praise of grated cheese FROM : Alice Hird I loved the article about convenience food [Aug, p16], although I had to giggle at Diana Henry’s comment, “I don’t see the point in ready-grated cheddar.” Diana, I have a confession to make. I also didn’t see the point – until I bought a bag of it. My husband and I developed an unhealthy addiction – every time one of us opened the fridge, out came the bag. Then there was the ‘walk of shame’, when you knew the other person had heard you rustling the cheese bag and looked on as you entered the room, guiltily wiping cheese crumbs from your chops. We christened it ‘fridge heroin’ and had to stop buying it. Pre-grated cheese is amazing…

1783 Frederic Tudor, known as Boston’s Ice King, was born on 4 September. The US businessman pioneered the harvesting of ice (from frozen New England ponds), shipping the insulated blocks as far as India. 1849 Ivan Pavlov was born on 26 September. The physiologist noted that his dogs salivated when they saw the lab assistant who fed them. This association or conditioning became known as the Pavlovian response. 1975 The first episode of Fawlty Towers aired on 19 September. The TV comedy follows hotelier Basil Fawlty, who finds his guests an inconvenience and calls one couple “Stuck-up, toffee-nosed, half-witted, upper-class piles of pus”. 1991 US children’s author and illustrator Theodor Seuss Geisel died on 24 September. Best known by his pen name, Dr Seuss, he was famed for classics such…

“These pages are about us doing the hard work so you don’t have to. We’re sent anything from 40 to 100 new products a month, and we really do try them all: tasting, smelling the aromas, testing gadgets. Only if they’re useful, good-looking and value for money do they get the delicious. seal of approval.”KAREN BARNES, EDITOR PRESENT & CARD IN ONE These have a 50ml bottle nestled inside – choose from classic gin, sloe gin, damson port, whisky or all manner of fruited vodkas, all by the excellent Raisthorpe. Choose your card message and which colour of padded envelope for safe delivery. From £9.99, plus £3.50 shipping, tipsydrinkcards.com NEED EXTRA STORAGE? I’m loving this industrial-look heavy-duty shelving unit, complete with hooks underneath from which to hang mugs, jugs or…

CHEF’S KNIFE Keep it sharp and this will serve a young chef better than a selection of inferior blades. Buy a safety sleeve, too. GOOD GRATER For grating copious amounts of cheese onto pasta, but also for shredding veg for stir-fries. TWO CHOPPING BOARDS One for raw meat and fish and one for bread and veg. Keep them separate to avoid food poisoning. LARGE MIXING BOWL For mixing salads, making cookie dough, using as a punch bowl… THE LITTLE THINGS Bottle opener and stopper, tin opener, corkscrew, scissors, wooden spoon, vegetable peeler. TO LEAVE AT HOME… A cocktail shaker’s retro glamour is appealing (making it a popular 18th birthday gift) but it’s unlikely it’ll see any action.…

The Double DishDrawer comes fully equipped with many cutting-edge features, including three handy modes to choose from. The Quick mode maintains performance while delivering a faster wash, the Sanitise option kills 99.9% of bacteria in the final rinse, and the Extra Dry setting works wonders with plastic dishes. It is also one of the quietest dishwashers on the market – so much so that it’s been awarded Quiet Mark recognition... perfect for keeping your kitchen running smoothly and efficiently. For more information, visit fisherpaykel.com/uk , call 0800 088 6601 or email sales@fisherpaykel.co.uk…

Thai green chicken curry SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 15 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the curry paste up to 3 days ahead and keep in the fridge with a little extra oil stirred in. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Vary the curry paste to suit your taste, adding more chilli if you like more of a kick, or more garlic, ginger or lemongrass if you like more aromatic flavours. • Glug vegetable oil for frying • 200g baby courgettes, halved lengthways • 6 skinless, boneless free-range chicken thighs, cut into 3-4cm chunks • 400ml can coconut milk • 100g sugar snap peas • 100g green beans, tailed • Large handful beansprouts, soaked in cold water for 10 minutes, then drained • Crispy fried onions to garnish (find them in…

• Add citrus zest to the fruit: lemon zest and juice to gooseberries; orange zest and juice to rhubarb; lime zest and juice to tropical fruit mixtures. • Reduce the sugar and add a little marmalade or jam to the fruit mixture. Marmalade goes well with quinces or apples, apricot jam with apricots or apples. • Add a handful of oats to the flour-based crumble mix, or make it almost entirely from oats for a flapjack-style topping. • Use pumpkin, sunflower and sesame seeds, lightly toasted coconut and coarsely crushed amaretti biscuits or ginger nuts for additional flavour in the topping. • Add chopped chocolate or choc chips to the crumble mix – great with pears.…

MAKES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 5 MIN ANGELA’S TIP The Cafe Murano spritz is made with A Mano Rosato pink wine, a blend of 75 per cent primitivo and 25 per cent aleatico from Puglia, Italy (from Amazon or thedrinkshop.com). Or use a good quality primitivo rosato wine. Divide 300ml chilled A Mano Rosato wine (see tip) among 6 chilled champagne flutes, followed by 150ml chilled prosecco. Top up each glass with a generous splash of chilled sparkling water and a few drops of Tabasco, then garnish with a slice of orange to serve.…

Spaghetti bolognese Making it with mince might make the nonnas wince (chopped rather than minced meat for a proper ragù, please). Also, for perfection, tagliatelle not spaghetti. If you’re making this with turkey mince ‘for health’, please send yourself to prison. Paella It’s not just Jamie. This very magazine once committed the cardinal sin of including chorizo and, gasp, sherry… Carbonara made with cream. There’s really no need for it. Adapt other recipes but not this one. Curry that’s just meat and sauce with a timid bit of garam masala chucked in with some raisins – a Subcontinent of almost 4.5 million square kilometres reduced to a pitiful school dinner... Pizza with hot dogs in the crust, made from cauliflower, topped with chicken tikka, hamburgers or pomegranate seeds should immediately…

Fermented food and drink contains microorganisms beneficial to physical and mental health. Tim Spector, professor of genetic epidemiology and author of The Diet Myth (Weidenfeld & Nicolson), has conducted a vast amount of research into the benefits of fermented food and drink, concluding that these foods populate the gut with bacteria that are essential for good health. The ‘western’ diet (low in veg, high in animal fat, sugar and additives) causes a depletion in gut bacteria, which can have a detrimental effect on your overall health.…

• Mix lobster, sliced apples and radishes with dill and a lemony crème fraîche dressing. • Stretch a single lobster in a rich custard tart: try lobster, peas and tarragon with some good cheese and double cream. • I like to make lobster risotto using pearl barley. Make a well flavoured stock with the shells and add softened sliced fennel and/or pastis to the risotto itself. • Lobster thermidor, with its rich, mustardy cheese sauce, is a hard-to-beat classic. One lobster is a great sharing starter for two. • Heap chopped lobster, fresh chilli, lime, sesame oil, spring onions and fresh coriander onto little gem leaves, then scatter with toasted sesame seeds.…

PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR “This Dutch appeltaart made an appearance at every birthday or celebration I can remember throughout my childhood. The aroma of the soft, tender pastry encasing a wonderful filling of apples, cinnamon and raisins makes me think of all of my family and friends crowded around the table, laughing, smiling and going back for seconds. The recipe was passed down to me by my Dutch grandma Hetty who, in turn, received the recipe from her own great-grandmother. It’s a proper through-the-generations, time-tested family dish. When I was diagnosed with coeliac disease and other food intolerances, including dairy, grains and eggs, my life was turned upside-down. I thought I’d never indulge in a piece of the buttery, cinnamon-laced…

Cook the chicken tikka masala on the cover and send us a picture to win two 44-piece gift box sets of Judge Windsor cutlery. With a 25-year guarantee, contemporary design and dishwasher-safe, the box sets of 12 place settings include a cake slice and 12 cake forks; two 12-piece steak knife and fork sets; 12 butter knives; and two pairs of serving spoons. You’ll also win a Judge Sabatier IC five-piece knife block set with a 20cm carving knife, 20cm bread knife, 15cm cook’s knife, 14cm boning knife and 9cm paring knife, all with stainless steel handles. FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… Make the chicken curry on our September cover, take a photograph and share it with us.* JULY’S WINNER • Emma McGettrick wins a sourdough course at Hobbs House Bakery…

By nutritionist Amanda Ursell This large bowl of soup triggers feelings of satisfaction by looking so appetising, as well as by the volume perceived by our stomachs once we’ve eaten it. It’s also rich in protein, an especially filling nutrient. On a non-fasting day add 62g fine egg noodles for another 212 calories, 1.1g fat, 7.7g protein and 42g carbs. Or try 130g Waitrose Edamame Noodles, which provide 167 calories, 5.5g fat and just 7.5g carbs, while boosting protein by 18g and fibre by 7.5g. Amanda is the nutrition editor of our sister magazine Healthy Food Guide…

Greek-style nachos V SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN Heat the grill to medium. In a bowl, combine 150g chopped pitted green olives, 1 finely sliced red onion, 250g chopped cherry tomatoes, the finely grated zest and juice of ½ lemon and a drizzle of olive oil, then season with salt and pepper. Spread ½ x 200g bag tortilla chips in a baking tray or shallow baking dish. Spoon over half the tomato mixture, 100g grated halloumi and ½ x 200g pot of houmous. Top with the rest of the bag of tortilla chips, tomato mixture and rest of the pot of houmous, then arrange 100g sliced halloumi over the top. Grill for 8-10 minutes until the halloumi is golden, then serve. PER SERVING 483kcals, 33.5g fat (8.3g saturated), 12g…

USE UP A GLUT OF… COURGETTES Pick your courgettes when young, crisp and sweet (18-20cm is best). For FRITTERS , lightly salt sliced or grated courgettes, then rinse and pat dry with kitchen paper. This will give you a crisp finish when frying. Courgettes make good CHUTNEY . Simmer 750g sliced courgettes with 250g chopped dates, 500g chopped onion, spices of your choice, 300ml vinegar and 125g sugar until thick. Put in sterilised jars while warm. After opening, keep in the fridge. Or try SICILIAN COURGETTES . Halve 4 medium courgettes, then hollow out the flesh and chop (retain the shells). Meanwhile, fry 2 chopped shallots, 2 chopped garlic cloves and 2 tbsp pine nuts in 1 tbsp olive oil over a gentle heat until golden. Add 2 tbsp currants…

BROWN TROUT A flashy fish that’s often speckled with orange, red and black spots, sometimes on a tawny background. Brown trout is farmed and lives wild in cool lakes and streams in the UK, but in the wild some trout make a sea-run, spending two or three years at sea. They return to the river when mature, at which point they become sea trout (or sewin if originating in Wales). They’re easy to confuse with a small Atlantic salmon, but a sea trout is usually leaner and has different markings and tail fin. Wild brown trout have a distinctive, slightly earthy taste. RAINBOW TROUT Introduced to the UK from the US at the end of the 19th century, rainbow trout are used to stock lakes and streams. The fish grow…

You can make bourride with only one type of fish, although a few mussels help to round out the flavour. Cut the fish pieces to similar sizes so they cook evenly. The choice of fish isn’t as important as some make out, but monkfish is delicious (and holds its shape). Red mullet is great – you can mix it with cheaper fish such as gurnard, grey mullet, hake or bream. Take care to remove the gills and organs from the fish heads/carcasses. Soak them in cold water for a few minutes to remove any blood (this can turn the stock bitter). If it looks like there’s a little too much broth for the amount of aïoli, set some aside for another day. If you add too much in step 8,…

• Invest in a meat probe (£10-15) – it will let you know with confidence when your meat is done, even if the temperature has been variable. • Remove your meat from the heat before the thickest part of the joint reaches the desired temperature – the core temperature will rise by about five degrees a few minutes after being taken off the heat. Cook chicken to 65/66°C (check it reaches 70°C afterwards). • Don’t underestimate the importance of resting – good meat is wasted without it. A 1.5kg chicken needs to rest, well covered, for at least 20 minutes.…

John Wurdeman of Pheasant’s Tears winery often invites his visitors to a supra – a traditional Georgian feast – at his restaurant of the same name. Expect a table groaning with a mosaic of plates: young leeks with butter and wildflowers; whey with chilli and garden mint; a fresh cream sulguni (above) that wobbles like a Georgian burrata; baked tomatoes with tahini sauce… On my visit, conversation was fuelled by a tasting of eight of Wurdeman’s wines, some of which are sold in Copenhagen’s Noma. A supra is best shared by half a dozen guests stabbing randomly at the restaurant’s abundant menu. Boozy singing and instrument twanging often accompany late-evening feasts. pheasantstears.com…

1 Nature’s best Wreaths aren’t just for Christmas: they look beautiful on the front door or hanging from a hook if you’re having a celebration or late-summer party. To learn how to make them – or wild decorations for your dining table – visit daylesford.com for dates. Most workshops are in the Cotswolds, some a half day, others more in-depth; all include materials and most offer light refreshments. Prices from £95 per person. 2 Help Syria in Wales Abergavenny’s fantastic food festival (15-16 September) kicks off with a four-course #CookForSyria Middle Eastern dinner in the town’s castle grounds on Friday 14th, organised by Belazu. The guest chefs include Ottolenghi supremo Calvin von Niebel, and you pay what you think the dinner and drinks are worth, from £40 up. It’s a…

Great recipes need great ingredients. For your chance to win £50 Sainsbury’s vouchers, solve the cryptic clue on the magazine spine, then email your answer, with your name, full UK address and phone number, to info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk. Competition entry closes 30 September 2018. Vouchers can be used in stores only (see p129 for Ts&Cs). July’s cryptic clue solution: vermouth *A FULL MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER MUST BE SUPPLIED. ENTRANTS MUST BE OVER 18. FOR FULL TS&CS, TURN TO P129…

7-9 SEPTEMBER Ludlow Food Festival Now in its 24th year, this trend-setting three-day festival showcases the superb food and drink made by more than 150 local producers. There’ll be workshops (some with a charge), demos and talks. Prices vary; foodfestival.co.uk 15 SEPTEMBER Local Food Britain Food & Drink Festival, Surrey South East food network Local Food Britain hosts its first festival at Priory Farm, Nutfield, showcasing bread, wine, charcuterie, cheese and more. Entry £2; localfoodbritain.com 28-30 SEPTEMBER Galway International Oyster & Seafood Festival Ring in the oyster season at the World Oyster Opening Championships on the Saturday, followed by a free family festival on Sunday. Championship tickets €70 including two seafood dishes, six oysters and a drink; galwayoysterfestival.com 6 OCTOBER Golden Spurtle World Porridge…

GREEN DREAM This new houmous from Moorish has ‘added benefits’ – each pot contains pea protein to keep you feeling fuller for longer. That aside, the texture has substance and the flavour is great. £1.80 for 150g, Sainsbury’s MORE SUMMER, PLEASE Made with mascarpone, this luscious ice cream has the tangy richness of a cheesecake – and there’s raspberry in the ripples of sauce to temper the sweetness. Co-op Irresistible Sicilian Lemon Curd & British Raspberry Ice Cream, £3.50 for 500ml ILLUSTRATION:ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES SPANISH CRUNCH Crisps don’t last long in the delicious. office but I got a taste of the new Kettle Discoveries Patatas Bravas with Paprika & Aioli crisps, and pretty moreish they were too: just the right level of garlic and spice. £1.85 for a 150g bag, Tesco…

WHAT OUR FINAL JUDGING PANEL SAID “Sweet, with perfume and a subtle hint of bitterness to balance” The name Riverford is likely to be familiar to anyone with an interest in organic food. As one of the UK’s largest organic fruit and veg box suppliers, it delivers to 50,000 homes each week, offering seasonal treats such as kohlrabi and globe artichokes alongside everyday staples. In organic terms, it’s a pretty big business – Riverford Organic Farmers turns over more than £50m a year – and now sells meat as well as veg. But its aim has stayed the same: to produce food that tastes good and is grown in harmony with nature. I met Guy Singh-Watson, the company’s founder, at Riverford HQ on Wash Farm in Buckfastleigh, south Devon.…

COUNTER ENCOUNTERS Helen Rosner, The New Yorker food correspondent, tweeted recently: “Can we retire the lazy, empty, self-congratulatory trope that ‘food connects people’? Because it doesn’t. People connect people. It’s not the food, it’s the table.” Or the mat on the floor. I think about this a lot, especially having lived and cooked in quite a few countries. And, while I think Rosner makes a valid point, it’s not the trope that’s lazy, it’s the people saying it. Like those who leave out “the love of” and cut straight to “money is the root of all evil”. The last bit means something entirely different from the whole sentence. In this case, it’s the sharing of food that connects people. Not the eating of it. Not the existence of it. But…

FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL AND STEVE LEE. PORTRAIT: ISSY CROKER. MEET MICHELÉ He’s the son of Albert Roux and nephew of Michel Roux Sr – the famed Roux Brothers – as well as being the long-standing chef of two-Michelin-starred Le Gavroche restaurant in Mayfair, which celebrated its 50th anniversary last year (some of you joined us for a reader event there). Michel is known to TV viewers of MasterChef: The Professionals, Saturday Kitchen and Kitchen Impossible with Michel Roux Jr, as well as being the author of several cookbooks. In his spare time (how does he have any of that, we wonder?) he’s a keen marathon runner. “Spanish flavours give this light but satisfying one-pot dish a bit of sophistication, with complexity and richness from the reduced sherry and…

Nutty plum and sloe gin crumble SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 50 MIN, PLUS RESTING MAKE AHEAD Bake the crumble a day ahead, cool completely, cover and keep in the fridge. When ready to serve, bring to room temperature for an hour, then warm through in a hot oven. • 1kg ripe plums, halved, stones removed, cut into wedges • 100ml sloe gin • 2-3 tsp cornflour (see Debbie’s Tips For Success, previous page) • 100-125g golden caster sugar (remember: sloe gin is already sweetened) FOR THE CRUMBLE TOPPING • 240g plain flour • 1 tsp ground cinnamon • 150g butter, at room temperature, cut into small pieces • 60g light muscovado sugar • 60g demerara sugar • 75g blanched almonds, coarsely chopped YOU’LL ALSO NEED… •…

RECIPE JEN BEDLOE PHOTOGRAPH MAJA SMEND FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH STYLING TONY HUTCHINSON TRAY ROAST RECIPE Roast beef with aubergine, peppers and cannellini beans SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 5-10 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP This recipe relies on using top-quality beef for perfect tenderness. If you don’t have a good local butcher, order a quality organic topside joint from eversfieldorganic.co.uk, also stocked at abelandcole.co.uk and ocado.com. Take the joint out of the fridge roughly an hour before roasting to let it start to come to room temperature. • 1.2-1.5kg boned and rolled British beef topside joint (see tip) • 4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to rub and drizzle • 1 tbsp cumin seeds • 1 tsp mustard seeds • 1 tsp coriander seeds •…

Baby veg piccalilli V MAKES 4 X 350ML JARS. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, PLUS AT LEAST 12 HOURS PICKLING AND 1 MONTH DEVELOPING MAKE AHEAD The piccalilli will keep for up to 3 months in sterilised jars, in a cool place. KNOWHOW See how to sterilise jars at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/videos/how-to-sterilise-jars. • 1kg baby vegetables (a mix of courgettes, carrots, shallots and cauliflower florets works well) • 75g fine sea salt • 2 heaped tbsp cornflour • 2 tsp ground turmeric • 1 tbsp English mustard powder • 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds • 500ml white wine vinegar • 1 garlic clove • 2cm piece fresh ginger • 2 bay leaves • 150g granulated sugar • 4 tbsp honey YOU’LL ALSO NEED… • 4 x 350ml jars with airtight lids, sterilised (see…

There’s a lot of confusing terminology around the topic of fermenting and pickling. Here’s a quick guide to what’s what… CULTURE Bacteria, yeast and other micro-organisms added to begin the fermentation process. Fermentation can also happen spontaneously, through airborne or naturally present yeasts and bacteria (the first wine and bread were made this way). KEFIR A fermented drink rich in probiotics (beneficial bacteria). Kefir is usually made with milk but can be made with water to which sugar has been added. KEFIR GRAINS The starter culture used for making kefir. Water kefir grains are often larger and slightly translucent; milk kefir grains are smaller and creamy. They’re not interchangeable. KOMBUCHA A fermented usually sweetened tea (can be black, green or white tea) that is gently effervescent. SCOBY Acronym for ‘symbiotic…

“Chopped and tossed through a salad or baked into a pudding, figs are a sweet or savoury late-summer treat. If you can get hold of the leaves, you can be creative with those too: infuse them in warm milk to make fragrant custard, ice cream and pannacotta. Here I’ve used figs’ natural sweetness to balance creamy burrata cheese, salty pancetta and bitter radicchio for a summer pizza, and I’ve gently stewed them with orange liqueur for a boozy pudding that’ll take you back to balmy evenings in the Med.” SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR Fig, pancetta and burrata pizzas MAKES 2 PIZZAS (SERVES 4). HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make to the end of step 2, cool, then keep in an airtight container or tightly sealed food bag for…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: PHOEBE WOOD. PHOTOGRAPHS: NIGEL LOUGH. STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS Salted peanut & chocolate meringue stack SERVES 12-15. HANDS-ON TIME 75 MIN, OVEN TIME 2 HOURS 30 MIN, PLUS COOLING, CHILLING AND SETTING MAKE AHEAD Start this recipe the day before you want to serve it. Make the meringues and the first step of the peanut mousse (up to the end of step 3) a day ahead. Make the peanut praline a day ahead, leave on the tray, wrap in a layer of baking paper and cling film, then leave in a cool, dry place overnight. Break into shards before serving. KNOWHOW Dulce de leche is a caramel made by heating sweetened condensed milk. Buy it in supermarkets or at souschef.co.uk. • 440g caster sugar • 8 medium…

GRAB A BARGAIN • Tesco Australian Merlot 2017, South Eastern Australia (£4.15) Soft and easy-going, and spot-on for an early autumn party, with bags of red cherry and strawberry. Bangers and mash suit it, too. • Extra Special Primitivo 2016, Puglia, Italy (£6.75, Asda) A softly spiced red, with clove and cinnamon spices mingling with prune and blackcurrant notes. One for a lamb tagine. • Canto Real Verdejo 2017, Spain (£6, Morrisons) A keenly priced verdejo from Spain’s exciting Rueda region. Fresh and juicy with peachy fruit flavours and a zingy citrus peel finish. FRIDAY SPECIAL • Definition Grüner Veltliner 2017, Niederösterreich, Austria (£10.99, or £8.99 as part of a mixed six, Majestic) With tangy grapefruit and lemon, and a twist of white pepper, it’s a dry white made for sole or scallops. • Angelito…

Prawn tacos SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Complete step 1 up to 4 hours in advance. Set aside until ready to finish the dish. NEXT TIME Replace the prawns with shredded cooked chicken or pulled pork, or halloumi pieces. • ½ red cabbage, finely shredded • Juice 3 limes • 100g radishes, sliced • Large handful fresh coriander, leaves roughly chopped • 1 ripe avocado • 200g sustainable frozen raw prawns, defrosted • 2 tsp fajita spice mix (Schwartz, Bart or Old El Paso) • 1 tbsp vegetable oil • 8 small soft white tortilla wraps • 8 tbsp soured cream 1 Toss the cabbage in a bowl with a large pinch of sea salt and the juice of 2 of the limes. Set aside for 10…

Loaf tin sizes are still based on bread weights: 1lb/2lb or 450g/ 900g. The trouble is, not all tins are the same – some are deeper than others and this can be a problem. Here’s what to do • Remember that the cake batter will be spread more thinly in a longer and/or wider tin than a short, deep one and this will result in a thinner cake that will cook more quickly and may not rise as well. Either make a little more batter and increase the cooking time or reduce the timing so the cake doesn’t overcook. • A shallow-sided tin is more likely to overflow during baking. Fill no more than three-quarters full to allow for expansion as the cake cooks. Be prepared to reduce the cooking…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: LUIS PERAL Greek-style lamb, spinach and feta pie SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 25 MIN, PLUS COOLING MAKE AHEAD Complete the pie up to 2 days ahead, then leave to cool, wrap well in cling film or put in an airtight container and keep in the fridge. Reheat in a hot oven to serve. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Look out for spinach sold in microwaveable packs. Pierce the top of the bag, then microwave according to the pack instructions – it saves washing up another pan. NEXT TIME We love the rich, meaty addition of roast lamb but you could omit it and add another pack of crumbled feta and some roasted red peppers to make…

ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES “I struggle to see how anyone could imagine there’s a gap in the market for duck à l’orange chocolates” I’m suffering from flavour fatigue, which usually strikes when I’m food shopping. I’m exhausted by the multiplicity of flavours that food producers add to otherwise perfectly good products. Displays of glossy sausages in an array of varieties are likely to set me off. Apple and sage might be at the more acceptable end of the spectrum, but these sausages could be displayed next to ones flavoured with cranberry and halloumi, or banana and madras. These may be winning flavour combos in the correct context, but not for sausages – which in my view should taste of pork or beef. The great British banger isn’t supposed to be sophisticated…

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH.PHOTOGRAPH: CLARE WINFIELD. STYLING: WEI TANG The Insta-ready lunch Baked beetroot with herby hazelnut crumb and goat’s curd Foil-wrap 500g raw baby beetroot with the juice of 2 oranges and 4 tbsp olive oil. Bake for 45 minutes at 170°C/150°C fan/gas 3½ until just tender. Peel and discard the skins and cut into quarters. Spread 300g goat’s curd over a serving plate, arrange the beetroot on top, then sprinkle with 30g toasted chopped hazelnuts, ½ tsp toasted cumin seeds, the finely grated zest of 1 orange and a small handful of chopped fresh parsley and mint leaves. Season and serve. 2 Beetroot carpaccio V Toss 300g wafer-thin-sliced raw beetroot with 2 tbsp olive oil, 4 tbsp white wine vinegar, 2 tsp caster sugar and a…

As holidays come to an end and the children go back to school, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the flurry of activity this time of the year brings. After all those laid-back evenings in the warmer months, grappling with family dinners, figuring out batch cooking and getting back into the swing of meal prepping for a busy working week can be difficult. And it often results in a messy kitchen. Fisher & Paykel’s Double DishDrawer takes the stress out of cleaning up after cooking and makes the whole process as hassle-free as it can be. The high-tech appliance combines practical design with innovative technology. It’s also fully adaptable, so you can wash one drawer and stack the other, wash both at once using different programmes, adjust the racking, and…

Coming into season right now: celeriac. Later in the year, I’ll be dusting off my celeriac dauphinois recipe, but since the weather’s still (supposed to be) good, I shall start off with this simple remoulade that the chef Bryn Williams taught me: peel a celeriac and cut into the thinnest slices. Cut those slices into thin ribbons. Season the celeriac with the juice of 1 lemon and a good pinch of salt, then leave in a colander to stand over the sink for about an hour. Squeeze out any remaining moisture, then put in a bowl and mix in 200g good mayonnaise and 2 tbsp horseradish cream. Serve with grilled oily fish or slow-roast pork belly.…

A VERY SOCIABLE ITALIAN FEAST FOR SIX ANTIPASTI Peppers with roasted garlic, anchovies and basil Octopus and olives Grilled aubergine salad V PRIMO Orecchiette tomato pasta salad V SECONDO Lamb ragout with peas DOLCE Torta della nonna (ricotta and lemon tart) When was the last time you blocked out your Sunday diary, switched off the ‘always-on’ social media apps, ignored emails and spent time focused solely on friends, family and great food (okay, and some wine)? Taking the chance to slow down, eat, think and enjoy is an all-too-rare luxury in these supercharged times. That’s something chef Angela Hartnett MBE, chef-patron of London’s Murano and Cafe Murano restaurants, recognises. Sunday lunch at Cafe Murano, served family-style, is a delectable, relaxing antidote to the ‘I’ve-got-no-time’ brain strain. Angela is a long-time…

Recipes, like families, have lines of love and attachment which stretch across centuries and continents. Sometimes their history is mired in conflict and conquest, sometimes it’s borne from passion or an accident of location. And just as your sister might drive you mad, God help anyone who criticises her or suggests she might be improved in some way. In that situation, many of us resort to defensiveness at best, claws-out full-frontal attack at worst. How dare anyone criticise our dearly beloved or have the temerity to suggest that they might be improved? So it is with recipes. In our own homes, we might add a few odds and ends to a dish to use them up, but those are home manners, not for public consumption. We might sometimes take a…

FERMENTATION is a process in which the chemical makeup of a substance is changed by the activity of bacteria, yeast or mould (or a combination) – and this can happen in vinegar/brine. PICKLING , on the other hand, is a process in which ingredients are preserved by immersing in brine or vinegar (or both). Sugar is often added and heat is often applied – as in making chutney or piccalilli. Fermentation and pickling both greatly increase the lifespan of the food being preserved.…

“Lobsters are expensive but they’re not something we eat every day. A 1kg lobster might cost as much as £25-30, but the lobster may well be 25 years old. The least we can do is show some respect. Each summer a few of my friends drop their lobster pots out in Lyme Bay. It gives them an excuse to paddle out from Monmouth Beach on their kayaks and check them every other day (the beach being by the pub). Sometimes their pots are empty but, if they’re lucky, there will be a few lobsters to take home – and every so often one comes my way. It’s easy to buy cooked whole lobster (they’ll be an orangey red instead of the dark plum blue colour when alive) but a fresh…

“Almost 10 years ago, with a handful of recipes – childhood favourites picked up from my father – I launched a pop-up restaurant in my flat in Hackney Wick, during Hackney WickED Arts Festival. The buzz and excitement around the food and my love for feeding people eventually led to a fledgling catering and street food business, Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen. Today, it’s more than that – it’s an idea shared, a culture explored through cooking with a creative spark developed over the many thousands of hours spent in the kitchen wondering, ‘What else can I do with that ingredient?’ It is, or rather I am (because it’s impossible to separate my business from me), a vehicle for exploring new interpretations of a cuisine by paying homage to its roots: a…

Chenin blanc This grape variety hits its stride in September, delivering ripe whites to take on those autumnal feasts. Choose dry or sweeter French Loire Valley chenins (such as vouvray) or the dry but fruity, vivacious style made in South Africa’s western Cape. Pair with salmon, roast pork or chicken, glazed ham or cooked fruit. From South Africa’s Breede River Valley, Finest South African Chenin Blanc 2017 (£7, Tesco) is crisp and juicy, with flavours of yellow apples and guava. Chill for salmon or fish pie. The Best Chenin Blanc 2017 (£7, Morrisons), also from South Africa, has a mellow flavour of baked apples and a rounded, dry finish. Match with chicken and ham. In a medium-sweet style, Château Moncontour Vouvray Demi-Sec 2017 (£10, Marks & Spencer) from the Loire…

The master recipe Lighter bolognese sauce SERVES 8 (2 MEALS FOR 4). HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 1 HOUR 15 MIN MAKE AHEAD This will keep, covered, in the fridge for 3 days. Or freeze for up to 3 months (see opposite). FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Save time with the veg prep by using a box grater to grate the carrot and mushrooms. Substitute the beef mince for British rose veal mince if you prefer a sauce with a lighter texture. • 1 tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • 1 celery stick, finely chopped • 1 carrot, finely chopped (see tips) • 250g mushrooms, finely chopped • 4 garlic cloves, crushed • 1 tsp dried oregano • 750g pork mince • 250g beef mince (see tips) •…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR Lighter plum and almond traybake SERVES 16. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, OVEN TIME 30-35 MIN, PLUS COOLING HOW WE DID IT We cut down on the butter and sugar and added apple sauce to keep the sweetness and give some texture. MAKE AHEAD Make one day ahead and keep in an airtight container somewhere cool. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Replace the plums in step 2 with peaches, nectarines or whole blackberries. • 100g unsalted butter, softened • 100g golden caster sugar • 155g jar apple sauce (we used Colman’s Bramley Apple Sauce) • 4 large free-range eggs • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 150g ground almonds • 100g wholemeal flour • ¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda • 1 tsp…

MEET OUR EXPERTS JEN BEDLOE Food editor SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH Deputy food editor OLIVIA SPURRELL Cookery assistant LUCAS HOLLWEG Chef and food writer THANE PRINCE Food writer, cook and queen of preserving CHEF’S STEP BY STEP p109 Learn how to make bourride, a Provençal fish stew, with Alex Jackson’s expert instruction THE WEEKEND PROJECT p112 Take spanakopita to another level with our special new recipe delicious. KITCHEN p104 Cookery tips and tricks including how to pin-bone fish and how to use aromatic leaves…

WHAT YOU’LL NEED… • Pair of fish bone tweezers; we like Vogue Fish Bone Tweezers, £7.18 from nisbets.co.uk 1 Find the pin bones: lay the fish fillet on a board, skin-side down. Run your fingertip down the thickest, middle part of the fillet, feeling for the tips of the bones [A]. You’ll usually find more prominent bones towards the head end of the fillet, and they will get smaller towards the tail. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES. 2 Pinch the tip of the bone: once you’ve located a pin bone, use your fingers to press down gently on the flesh on either side to push the bone out of the flesh. Use the fish bone tweezers to pinch the end of the bone [B] 3 Carefully remove the bone: you may feel…

A rich Provençal fish stew, spiked with saffron and thickened with aïoli, bourride is perhaps less riotous than bouillabaisse but no less flavourful, and the saffron-aïoli combination is deeply satisfying. Some recipes call for diced carrots or leeks floating in the stew, but I roughly chop everything, extract the flavours, then strain the stock. I like to add citrussy orange zest to the base and a pinch of hot cayenne pepper to finish. ALEX JACKSON, HEAD CHEF OF SARDINE, LONDON N1 Bourride SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, SIMMERING TIME 1 HOUR 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the recipe up to the end of step 4 up to a day ahead (but don’t cook the potatoes). Chill the stew and aïoli in separate sealed containers. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Make…

RECIPE: PHILLEIGH WAY. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR THE COOKERY SCHOOL WHERE Philleigh Way Cookery School, Truro, Cornwall THE COURSE Better Barbecuing, £99 for half-day course, including lunch and goody bag TESTER Phoebe Stone WHAT’S IT LIKE? Part of a working farm outside Truro, Philleigh Way Cookery School is set in a former cowshed and stables with high ceilings, honey-coloured beams and buckets of Cornish country charm. As well as its inside training kitchen there’s an impressive outdoor kitchen with a pizza oven, brick open-fire cooking and five Weber barbecues. Luckily, given our often-inclement weather (this summer aside!), it is covered. “It’s very British to barbecue under a roof,” head tutor George assured us. WHAT I LEARNED Starting with a charcoal-fuelled kettle barbecue, George…