Innholdsfortegnelse for Jul-18 i Delicious UK

SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 4½-5 HOURS, BARBECUE TIME 30 MIN, PLUS MARINATING AND RESTING MAKE AHEAD Marinate the lamb up to 48 hours ahead, covered in the fridge. Cook the lamb (step 2) for 4 hours the day before. Chill overnight then, on the day, return to the oven for an hour and continue from step 3. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS The fat in the lamb bastes the meat with spicy juices as it cooks slowly, adding plenty of flavour and succulence (the steam from the added water helps keep the meat moist too). Be careful as the fatty juices may make the coals flare up. If you’re not using a barbecue, unwrap the joint and finish it in a hot oven in a roasting tin for…

1 About half an hour before you want to cook, remove the lid and cooking rack, and open the base vents. Tip charcoal onto the bottom grate in an even layer. Space out 3-4 firelighters on top. 2 Using a long safety match, light the firelighters, then use tongs to pile the charcoal over them to light the coals. 3 The coals are ready when they have a light coating of grey ash with a red glow beneath. You can arrange the lit coals slightly to one side to give you different temperature cooking zones. Return the cooking rack. 4 Control the cooking temperature by moving the food or rack higher or lower and/or using the base vents: fully open for very hot coals; close them bit by bit for…

SERVES 8-10 AS A NIBBLE (MAKES 275ML). HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 20-30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Freeze the cooled moutabal at the end of step 2 in a sealed container or freezer bags. Defrost, bring to room temperature, then continue with the recipe. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you’re not cooking on the barbecue, char the aubergines in a hot griddle pan over a medium-hot heat, then transfer to an oven heated to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4, then cook, loosely covered with foil, for about 20 minutes until softened. • 2 large aubergines (about 250g each), slashed lengthways 4 times • 2 fat garlic cloves, chopped and mashed to a purée with 1 tsp sea salt • 2 tbsp tahini paste • Juice ½ lemon (or more to taste) • 1…

SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, BARBECUE TIME 15-20 MIN, PLUS MARINATING MAKE AHEAD Marinate the chicken pieces, covered in the fridge, up to 48 hours ahead. • 1.5kg free-range British chicken legs and wings • ½ red chilli, sliced, to serve (optional) FOR THE MARINADE • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon • 1 tsp cayenne pepper • 1½ tsp ground turmeric • 1 tsp smoked paprika (pimentón) • 1 tsp garam masala • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 30g finely grated fresh ginger • 300g natural yogurt FOR THE SPICY YOGURT • 200g natural yogurt • 30g ginger, grated • 1 red chilli, finely chopped • Bunch fresh mint, leaves picked, half finely chopped • 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 Mix all the marinade ingredients in a large…

PHOTOGRAPH: KATE WHITAKER It’s that full-of-light time of year when proper sunshine comes into play – or it should do, anyway. Are you a morning or evening person? I’m naturally the latter, but on weekdays I force myself to get up early to enjoy the relative solitude of misty mornings when London is at its most still and quiet, before the heat of the day. Everything seems possible then – even if over-ambitious hopes and plans crumble slightly later. Weekends are a time to relish the feel of cool grass underfoot and a grabbed moment at end of day when it’s gloriously okay to enjoy a glass of something chilled as the sun dips down. But how do you feel about eating outside? At home it’s easy –…

STAR EMAIL SUBJECT: Veal of approval FROM : Ceri Mortimer delicious. is the only food magazine I buy these days and I get ridiculously excited in anticipation towards the end of the month. That said, I’m disappointed you aren’t showing support for British dairy farming’s efforts to launch rose veal as a by-product of milk production. Rather than destroying male milk-herd calves, they are being reared humanely to produce rose veal. I’ve struggled to find recipes using veal in the magazine. In the June issue, for example, the meatball recipe (p84) could be improved by using some veal. Rose veal is sweet, tender and adds a depth of flavour to any recipe calling for beef. I make a ‘mother of all meat ragùs’ (my homage to bolognese) using five types…

1806 Michael Keens presented the Keens Seedling strawberry variety to The Royal Horticultural Society on 3 July. It was one of the first large-fruit strawberries marketed, and many modern cultivars can be traced back to this variety. 1856 Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw was born in Dublin on 26 July. He went on to write the drama Man and Superman that featured the timeless line “There is no love sincerer than the love of food.” 1996 Scottish scientists announced the arrival of Dolly the sheep, the first successfully cloned mammal, on 5 July. Named after Dolly Parton, she was born to a Scottish Blackface surrogate mother and had six lambs before her death in 2003. 2009 The town of Bundanoon in New South Wales became the world’s first to ban…

THEY’VE CRACKED IT Magnum have cleverly translated their crisp-shell lollies into tub form, and the chocolate & hazelnut praliné is a winner. Squeeze the tub to crack the thick chocolate into shards, then dive in with a spoon. £3.85 for 440ml, widely available ADDICTION ALERT Chocolate, peanut butter, caramelised peanuts and peanut ice cream – this new flavour from Häagen-Dazs is almost dangerous, it’s so good. You have been warned. Oh, and it comes in lollies, too. £5.35 for 460ml from Asda, Tesco & Sainsbury’s ILLUSTRATION:ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES THE VEGAN LOLLY Made with coconut milk, Miiro lollies more than hit the spot for those who can’t eat cream or milk – and for those who can. Available in peanut butter, choc-hazelnut or salted caramel flavours. £2.49 each or £5.49 for 3…

PHOTOGRAPHS DAVID CHARBIT WHAT OUR FINAL JUDGING PANEL SAID “Royal fillet is sashimilike, with a buttery yet firm texture. This is so fresh and simple, the delicate flavour of the salmon shines through. Wonderful stuff” Over the past 40 years, smoked salmon has gone from a luxury artisan product to supermarket sandwich filler, and not without sacrifices to quality and confusion over its origins. Who better to dispel the myths and show us how it should be done than H Forman & Son, a company with over 100 years’ experience in salmon-smoking? “Smoked salmon should not really taste of smoke,” fourth-generation fish-smoker Lance Forman says adamantly when I meet him at his vast East London smokehouse, on the appropriately named Fish Island. “The point of the smoke was to…

LOCAL HEROES It cannot have escaped your notice that all is not well in the restaurant business. Costs are up, it’s almost impossible to find staff and all kinds of places, especially chains, are closing branches like crazy. Now, I love a cheeky Nando’s as much as the next person. And I enjoy a good burger. But I’m not worried about the chains. They’re big businesses. They will ebb and flow from the high street like the tide. And somehow all will be well. No. I worry about proper local restaurants, the family-run places that I love best of all. I’m lucky to live in a neighbourhood with several such places, three of which I visit regularly. Gazette has three branches in southwest London, all of which offer classic cuisine…

“ A whole plaice makes a spectacular roast, so bring the roasting tin to the table for maximum effect. Sea vegetables are available from some supermarkets in season (which is now), but if you can I’d recommend a trip to the salt marshes to go foraging for sea beet, samphire and sea aster. It’s worth it just to experience the beauty of these unique coastal ecosystems, but coming home with a bag of sea veg, packed with their salty, umami tang, is a bonus.” OLIVIA SPURRELL, COOKERY ASSISTANT RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE Whole roast plaice with anchovy & sage butter, new potatoes and sea vegetables SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 50-55 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP Sea vegetables are available…

July is, for me, traditionally a month to spend indoors, curtains drawn tightly against the sun, watching a pack of skinny cyclists battle their way up mountains and down the Champs-Elyseés in pursuit of a yolk-yellow Lycra jersey. This perhaps unlikely interest in the Tour de France can be partly attributed to too much time spent hanging around campsite bars as a child, but I’d be lying if I said my passion was purely sporting. Tour champions come and go: the country itself is the real star. I’ve long been in love with France in that clichéd British fashion, its mighty Alpine peaks and wide Atlantic beaches, the lush hydrangeas of Brittany and dark forests of the Ardennes, its style and silly sense of humour, and most of all its…

CHERRIES IN GRAPPA A great way to use a surplus of cherries is to steep them in grappa – it’s delicious in cocktails and the cherries make tantalising treats. How to do it Put 500g washed and pitted cherries in a clip-top jar. Cover with 500ml grappa, seal and leave somewhere cool and dark for 6 months. CHERRY NEGRONI Put 6 ice cubes in a glass tumbler. Pour over 20ml each of homemade cherry grappa, Campari, Cinzano Rosso (red sweet vermouth) and add a strip of pared orange zest. CHOCOLATE GRAPPA CHERRIES Dry the leftover grappa cherries well on kitchen paper, then dip in melted dark chocolate to make boozy after-dinner petits fours.…

*TS&CS: OFFER INCLUDES: £70 OFF 4-DAY AND 2-DAY COURSES; £50 OFF £240 COURSES; £30 OFF £195 COURSES; AND £20 OFF £145 COURSES. THIS PROMOTION CANNOT BE USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANOTHER OFFER. VISIT RIVERCOTTAGE.NET/TERMS-CANCELLATION FOR FULL BOOKING TERMS. RIVER COTTAGE RESERVES THE RIGHT TO REMOVE THIS PROMOTION AT ANY TIME “I pull up at the disused petrol station and get out of my car. A man takes a white plastic bag from the boot of his Volvo and hands it to me. I hand him cash in return, then turn and begin to walk back to my vehicle. As I open the door he shouts, ‘Same again next week?’ I give him a thumbs-up and we go our separate ways. This is not the usual way I procure my ingredients,…

To celebrate the publication of his latest book, Eating Well Everyday (see p113), New Zealand-born fusion food pioneer Peter Gordon is inviting you to his cosy restaurant, The Providores & Tapa Room in London’s Marylebone, for an exclusive evening of fine food, top wine and lively conversation. And as well as meeting the talented Peter you’ll get to chat with delicious. editor Karen Barnes too. The evening will kick off with canapés and sparkling wine, before you’re treated to three courses of Peter’s greatest hits, each one matched with interesting New Zealand wines and introduced by the man himself. After dinner you’ll have a chance to quiz Peter in a friendly Q&A session and at the end of the night you’ll take home a copy of his excellent book –…

Now is a wise and wonderful time to become a subscriber to delicious. magazine because we’re doing a rare two-years-for-the-price-of-one offer. Being part of our subscriber club means you’ll never miss out on the magical mix that makes delicious. different from other food magazines: foolproof recipes to inspire you and make your convivial gatherings and weeknight meals special; features to provoke thought and debate; the latest stories from the world of food; tips and know-how to make you a better cook; and advice on properly tried and tested products to buy… We’d love you to join us.…

PHOTOGRAPHS TARA FISHER FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH AND OLIVIA SPURRELL STYLING LUIS PERAL Caesar tagliatelle SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN NEXT TIME For a veggie version, swap the parmesan for a vegetarian hard cheese and swap anchovies and Worcestershire sauce for 75g pitted, chopped kalamata olives and a few dashes of mushroom ketchup. • 300g tagliatelle • 4 tsp light olive oil • 60g dried breadcrumbs • 3-4 garlic cloves, crushed • 4 baby gem lettuces, quartered lengthways • 8-10 anchovy fillets, roughly chopped • 4 spring onions, thinly sliced • 2 medium free-range eggs, beaten • 70g parmesan, finely grated • Few dashes Worcestershire sauce • Handful fresh flatleaf parsley leaves, finely chopped 1 Cook the pasta in a large pan of salted water, according to the pack…

RECIPE: KATY MCCLELLAND. PHOTOGRAPH: KATE WHITAKER. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS Japanese-style omelette (okonomiyaki) SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP To make this veggie, swap the Worcestershire sauce for mushroom ketchup and the oyster sauce for pure teriyaki or use vegetarian oyster sauce. • 2 medium free-range eggs • 1 tsp dark soy sauce • ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce (see tip) • 1 red chilli, deseeded and sliced • 2 spring onions, thinly sliced • 80g thinly sliced cauliflower (use a mandoline or grater) • 60g pak choi, chopped • ½ tbsp cornflour • Juice ½ lime • 50g cucumber, halved, deseeded and thinly sliced • Low-calorie cooking spray • 1 tsp oyster sauce mixed with ½ tsp water (see tip) 1 Roughly beat the…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS COVER RECIPE Tomato, thyme and ricotta tart SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 26-28 MIN, PLUS CHILLING & RESTING MAKE AHEAD Make the pastry and chill, well wrapped, in the fridge a day ahead. The baked tart case will keep somewhere cool for up to 3 days stored in an airtight container or wrapped in cling film. KNOWHOW Ricotta salata is salted and aged ricotta that’s firm but mild and crumbly. Find it in Italian delis or buy ricotta salata dura from Natoora on Ocado. • 250g pack ricotta • 80g ricotta salata, grated (see Know-how) or pecorino • 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 2 tsp runny honey • 1 tbsp freshly picked thyme leaves,…

For decades, studies have suggested that drinking a modest amount of wine can be good for the heart. Research in the late 1970s published in The Lancet medical journal found that certain countries had relatively low levels of heart disease despite diets high in saturated fat. The study attributed this phenomenon to high intakes of wine, and later research dubbed this the French Paradox. A slew of studies followed that supported the links between red wine and heart health. The world loved the idea that red wine could mitigate the effects of gorging on cheese, dairy and red meat, and media headlines implied this link was proven. But shortcomings in the research were soon identified. Some scientists pointed out that the link was based on epidemiological studies, which are the…

MEET OUR EXPERTS JEN BEDLOE Food editor SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH Deputy food editor OLIVIA SPURRELL Cookery assistant LUCAS HOLLWEG Chef and food writer XANTHE CLAY Chef, writer, and preserves & freezing queen CHEF’S STEP BY STEP p107 Turkish-style pizzas from Selin Kiazim, the star chef behind Oklava and Kyseri restaurants TART UP THE BERRIES p104 Turn fresh strawberries into patisserie-style treats in The Weekend Project delicious. KITCHEN p100 Cookery tips and tricks, plus how to make your own barbecue sauce…

RECIPE: FOODWORKS. PHOTOGRAPHS: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE • If using a highly flavoured oil in a dressing (such as sesame or walnut), keep it as a complement and use 2 parts flavourless oil to 1 part flavoured. • Mustard is a good emulsifier and helps keep a vinaigrette together. • When adding herbs to a dressing, use the chiffonade technique to cut them into ribbons: layer the leaves flat on top of one another, roll them up, then slice thinly. • Toasting ingredients is an excellent way to add depth of flavour to salads. Seeds, nuts and quinoa all benefit from a few minutes in a hot pan. • When seasoning a dressing or salad, do so bit by bit. You can always add but you can never take away.…

EATING WELL EVERYDAY Known as the king of fusion food (see p115 for details of a reader event), Kiwi-born chef and restaurateur Peter Gordon strikes gold again with this book. His trademark magic mixes of ingredients characterise the 170 recipes for breakfast, soups, noodles, mains, side dishes and desserts – straightforward enough for everyday cooking. Jacqui Small £22 THE LITTLE VIET KITCHEN Author Thuy Diem Pham, who runs The Little Viet Kitchen restaurant in north London, left Vietnam as a child, and her memories of a faraway country make a poignant introduction to this excellent book. The 100 traditional but updated recipes are the real deal, and the photography is sumptuous. Bloomsbury £22 ROOT & LEAF ‘Big, bold vegetarian food’ is the subtitle of chef and food stylist Rich Harris’s…

I’d come to New Brunswick to learn about Canada’s first settlers, the Acadians, and how they survived the brutal winters, but arriving in July I was pleasantly surprised to be motoring along an empty Trans-Canada Highway in a balmy 25°C with the biggest bluest skies above me. First stop was Moncton, a busy transport hub. In the Tide & Boar (tideandboar.com) microbrewery and gastro pub, I met owner Chad Steeves, who offered me a Sour Otis Strawberry Pie ale – named after his grandad and brewed with wild strawberries and pie crust. Like the beer, Tide & Boar’s menu had plenty of creative touches. Chad’s chefs do a lot of pickling, smoking and curing of fish and meat in-house. Oysters are a big thing in New Brunswick so Chad shucked…

These were French colonists who settled around the Bay of Fundy in 1604. For over 100 years they were caught in the middle of a fight for supremacy between the French and the British until 1713, when the French ceded the lands settled by the Acadians to England. The settlers were allowed to remain if they swore an oath of allegiance to England. Their refusal (and some resistance) resulted in expulsion in 1755, when they were sent to the American colonies, at which point British settlers and American loyalists moved in. When the Acadians were allowed to return, the only lands left for them were the harsh margins of the country.…

PERTH SHOW, SCOTLAND FRI 3 & SAT 4 AUGUST This prestigious show has been held for more than 150 years in the glorious Perthshire countryside and offers a top-drawer food festival with lots of added fun: livestock shows, showjumping, huge tractors for children to goggle at, and much more… • Rosemary Shrager • Nick Nairn • Perthshire On A Plate: a variety of pop-up restaurants for all to try perthshow.co.uk NANTWICH FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL, CHESHIRE FRI 31 AUGUST TO SUN 2 SEPTEMBER With its jumble of ancient timberframe buildings, the historical market town of Nantwich must be the prettiest setting for a food festival anywhere in the UK – and it attracts some big stars, with a proper festival atmosphere throughout the town. • GBBO 2017 winner Sophie Faldo…

SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR 10 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIPS We tested this on a gas barbecue and on a conventional gas hob, where the heat can be controlled. On a charcoal barbecue the cooking times may vary – the rice may not cook as quickly if the stock evaporates too quickly. This recipe is easy to halve if you’re feeding 4 people. In this case you’ll need a 36cm paella pan or frying pan. • 3 large spanish onions • 2 green peppers • 1 garlic bulb, cloves peeled • 2 x 125g bags baby leaf spinach • 12 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 1 tbsp sherry vinegar • 30g pine nuts, toasted for 5 minutes in a dry pan • 50g raisins, soaked in 100ml dry sherry…

SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the tomato sauce up to 24 hours in advance and chill. If it’s more convenient, make it in the kitchen, then warm through on the barbecue before serving. KNOWHOW You’ll need to go to a good butcher for proper T-bone steaks, but it’s an impressive cut to serve to guests. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS If you’re using good balsamic vinegar and your tomatoes are ripe, you probably won’t need any sugar – taste the sauce before adding it. You can also use balsamic glaze instead of balsamic vinegar, in which case you won’t need to add sugar. • 350g cherry tomatoes • ½ onion, finely chopped • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for rubbing • 2 fat garlic cloves, crushed…

Flatbread pizza with broad beans and courgettes SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN • 250g self-raising flour, plus extra to dust • 500g greek yogurt • 100g skinned broad beans • 3 medium courgettes • 2 splashes extra-virgin olive oil • 1 garlic clove, crushed • Za’atar and chilli flakes for sprinkling 1 Light the barbecue. In a mixing bowl, mix the flour with 250g of the yogurt and 1-2 pinches of salt. Bring together into a dough with your hands (add a splash of water if it’s dry), then knead on a floured surface until smooth. Roll out to a 5mm thick circle, then fold over the rolling pin and put on a well floured baking sheet. 2 Meanwhile, put 100g skinned broad beans in…

SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN • 6 corn cobs, still with their husks on • Vegetable oil for rubbing • 150g softened butter • 2 red chillies, finely chopped • 75g monterey jack cheese (or cheddar), grated • Grated zest 2 limes • 2 tsp sriracha chilli sauce • 2 pickled jalapeños, finely chopped • Smoked paprika (pimentón) for sprinkling 1 Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Peel back the husks from the corn cobs and remove the silks, then fold the husks back over the corn. Boil for 5 minutes or until nearly tender, drain and dry them off. Rub the outsides with a little vegetable oil. Heat a barbecue and, once it’s hot or the coals are glowing white, cook the cobs for 6-8…

1 Critical mass Regular readers will know delicious. has long supported the charity Action Against Hunger, and 8 July sees the return of its Too Many Critics event at Neil Rankin’s Temper City restaurant in London. Food writers will be manning the kitchens – as opposed to writing about what comes out of them. On the team in previous years have been Jay Rayner and Bill Knott, and this year the cooks will be joined by delicious. team member Hugh Thompson. There’s just time for you to buy a ticket and enjoy the meal alongside some of the best chefs and restaurateurs. Tickets£120each. Visitactionagainsthunger.org.uk/get-involved/attend-event 2 The good book Bake for Syria comes hot on the heels of the success of Cook For Syria, both books produced in their entirety…

ILLUSTRATION: GETTY. *A FULL MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER MUST BE SUPPLIED. ENTRANTS MUST BE OVER 18. FOR FULL TS&CS, TURN TO P129 Our exclusive prize from Australian wine producer Nepenthe is a case of Petraea sauvignon blanc from its Pinnacle range, a collection of premium boutique wines made with the best-quality grapes. Renowned for producing top-drawer sauvignon blancs, Nepenthe embodies a modern Australian style that reflects the cooler climate of the Adelaide Hills. nepenthe.com.au; available at amazon.co.uk, RRP £19.99…

1-31 Hampshire Food Festival A month-long calendar of cross-county events, such as farm/vineyard/distillery tours and pop-up dinners hosted by chefs, including MasterChef winner Jane Devonshire. Prices vary; hampshirefare.co.uk 14-15 Pommery Dorset Seafood Festival, Weymouth Grilled lobsters, garlic mussels, fresh crab… Tuck into a seafood feast in this quaint harbour town, with a glass or two of champagne. Chefs Sophie Michell and Neil Rankin, seafood supremo CJ Jackson (see p103) and others will share their fishy wisdom. Free; dorsetseafood.co.uk 25-29 Edinburgh Food Festival Scotland’s larder will be on proud display in the capital’s George Square Gardens. Expect a vibrant street food market offering dumplings, gelato and more, plus a series of interesting talks. Free; edfoodfest.com 28-29 Hatfield Food Festival, Hertfordshire Watch cookery superstars Rosemary Shrager, 2017 GBBO…

A DIFFERENT TYPE OF NORDIC NOIR The gin craze continues, and it’s not just the UK that’s feeling the love. This distinctive black-bottled gin from Norwegian craft distiller Stig Bareksten has a clean aroma with invigorating whiffs of pine, spice and woodland. At 46 per cent alcohol it can stand up to ice and tonic – and will add a Nordic air to your martinis. Bareksten Botanical Gin, from £42 (70cl), mastersofmalt.com, Gerry’s Wines & Spirits and Amazon And also… A NEW KIND OF TEA Have you discovered kombucha yet? It’s a fermented tea drink so it has a gentle sparkle to it and a slightly sour taste. You might not be sold on it at first taste, but trust me: you will be (plus it’s only 50…

Delectable food and drink goes hand in hand with summer entertaining, whether you’re holding a full-on barbecue, an al fresco dinner party or simply treating the family to a fruity sorbet in the garden. Fisher & Paykel has developed a versatile appliance that makes cooking and entertaining in the warmer months a breeze. Need ice for that pitcher of Pimm’s or want to marinate some ribs overnight? The CoolDrawer is a fridge, freezer, wine chiller and pantry all in one – a touch of a button is all it takes to navigate between these modes. The appliance is built around the concept of distributed refrigeration, combining Fisher & Paykel’s cutting-edge ActiveSmart Foodcare technology with a sophisticated drawer-based design. It’s easy to integrate the stylish CoolDrawer into your cabinetry, but you…

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES EATING… NEW BELAZU FLAVOURED OLIVE OILS. The Fig Leaf is heavenly, subtle, almondy and fresh, especially drizzled over ripe tomatoes with sea salt and black olives, crusty bread and a glass of Mirabeau rosé on the side. Hello, sunshine! DRINKING… LONG, COOL CAMPARI SODAS with plenty of ice and a wedge of orange or grapefruit. I’ll sip this, imagining I’m back in the 1930s at the bar in Milan’s Il Camparino, the spiritual home of this iconic herbal bitters. WATCHING… ANT-MAN AND THE WASP. Does this movie have anything to do with food? No. Wasps won’t even be bothering picnickers for another month or two. But I LOVE Paul Rudd and this one is pure summer entertainment.…

THE MASTER RECIPE Cod and parsley fishcakes MAKES 8 FISHCAKES. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR 15 MIN , PLUS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Once shaped, the fishcakes will keep, covered in the fridge, for up to 3 days. Fry just before serving, or cool the cooked fishcakes, chill in the fridge, then reheat in a hot oven until piping hot. The tartare sauce will keep for several days in the fridge, covered. • 800g floury main crop potatoes, such as king edwards • 800g cod fillet (skin-on) • 25g unsalted butter, melted • 20g fresh curly parsley, leaves chopped • Sunflower oil for deep-frying • 50g plain flour, seasoned, plus extra for coating your hands • 2 medium free-range eggs, beaten • 150g breadcrumbs, made from day-old white bread (see The Essential…

“Hidden inside scruffy pods are the bean world’s most tender gems. Release them from their fur-lined cladding and enjoy their versatility… Eat tender young beans blanched in their skins, then tossed with olive oil and sea salt. If you’re feeling showy (or using older beans), remove the skins as well to reveal the beans’ vivid green flesh. Here I’ve used broad beans to add colour and flavour to my twist on tabbouleh. I’ve also devised a recipe that saves the hassle of podding: char them whole and eat like edamame for a summer treat.” JEN BEDLOE, FOOD EDITOR PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS Broad bean tabbouleh salad SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD The salad tastes best made a day ahead (keep covered in the fridge), giving the flavours a…

SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH PHOTOGRAPHS CLARE WINFIELD STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE MENU FOR 8 Pomegranate spritz Green houmous with smoked almond dukkah Cumin-cured salmon Zhoug lamb with ras el hanout Fruit and herb buckwheat salad Roasted baby carrot salad with creamy feta dressing Orange blossom, lemon thyme and almond cake with rosé red berries Of all the dates in my diary, book club with my friends is the one I most look forward to. Every six weeks we gather at one of our houses to air our opinions about the chosen book. Over a meal (we’ve had everything from pizza nights to a raclette evening) and with a decent bottle of fizz or two, we exercise the grey matter – and our taste buds. This time it was my turn to host and…

PHOTOGRAPH: MATT RUSSELL. FOOD STYLING: AYA NISHIMURA. STYLING: LYDIA MCPHERSON. *OFFER SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. ALLOW 7 DAYS FOR DELIVERY MEET NARGISSE She was born in Morocco but moved with her food-loving family to Brussels. She later worked in London and, after a career in public policy, followed her passion to train as a chef. The success of her popular blog, My Moroccan Food, led to her first cookbook, Casablanca. Merguez burger with preserved lemon guacamole SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Combine the merguez mince and shape the patties up to a day in advance. Keep covered in the fridge. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If cooking on a coal barbecue, light it 20-30 minutes before you want to cook and wait for the coals to glow white. NARGISSE’S TIPS…

GRAB A BARGAIN • Mandorla Bianco 2017, Italy (£6, Marks & Spencer) Stock up on this refreshing southern Italian white for summer parties. It’s perky with lemon and pear and a dry, crisp finish. • Extra Special Rueda 2017, Spain (£5.48, Asda) The Rueda region’s fashionable verdejo grape variety offers loads of juicy lime flavours – a fine match for white fish cooked with fresh herbs, and tomato salads. • Morrisons Beaujolais 2017, France (£5) A soft, youthful red bursting with black cherries and plums. Chill it slightly if you like and serve with cold meats and pâtés. FRIDAY SPECIAL • Zingo Malbec Rosé 2017, Pays d’Oc, France (£9.99, or £7.99 as part of a mixed six, Majestic) A modern, exuberantly fruity rosé tingling with red cherries and cranberries. Summer party pink, sorted. • Taste…

This dish will be filling: research has shown how a two-egg meal can affect satiety, helping people to eat fewer calories at their next meal. Eggs also add useful amounts of vitamin D to the diet, with this omelette providing 75 per cent of the daily target. It’s also good for the B vitamins folate and B12, needed for healthy nerves. On a non-fasting day, 50g (uncooked weight) instant wholemeal rice noodles will add another 175 calories to the meal. These will provide 36g extra carbohydrates and 3.3g more fibre. Amanda is the nutrition editor of our sister magazine Healthy Food Guide…

RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: TARA FISHER. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: LUIS PERAL Lighter creamy coleslaw SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN HOW WE DID IT We reduced the amount of mayonnaise and replaced high-fat cream with lower-fat fromage frais to bring the fat content down. (Using low-fat mayonnaise will bring it down further.) Fresh herbs add flavour. MAKE AHEAD Make 2-3 hours ahead, cover and chill until ready to serve. The coleslaw will keep in the fridge for up to 2 days but the veg won’t be as crunchy. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you can’t find fromage frais use low-fat natural yogurt instead. • 250g fromage frais • 4 tbsp mayonnaise • Finely grated zest and juice ½ lemon • 1½ tsp caraway seeds, lightly toasted in a dry…

Vegetables are a big part of Thai culinary culture. It has to do with showing gratitude to nature for providing bountiful land and to redeem ourselves for taking the lives of animals. Many Thais follow a vegetarian or vegan diet at least once a week. This book brings together family recipes with new dishes that I’ve created using whatever local produce I could find. I’ve learned to be inventive and not stress out too much when certain vegetables aren’t available. The important thing is to cook with what you have and experiment with substitutes for what you haven’t. SAIPHIN MOORE “I learned how to make these when I was a waitress in Hong Kong, at a restaurant called Thai Farmer. We made them every day at 3pm, chatting around a…

FOOD PROCESSORS These are designed primarily for mixing, chopping, slicing and shredding. They consist of a motor base topped with a lidded mixing bowl that can be fitted with interchangeable blades and grating discs. Some come with a smaller bowl. Pricier machines have juicing, blending or whisking attachments. Best for… • Making vegetable slaws, salsas and gratins, and slicing veg • Grating cheese; making breadcrumbs • Whizzing houmous, pesto and spice pastes • Making mayonnaise (but large bowls don’t cope well with small quantities) • Mixing batters • Creaming butter and sugar and ‘rubbing in’ butter and flour • Making pastry (briefly pulse in liquid/ eggs or the pastry can become tough) • Making cake mixes (mix in flour lightly to prevent a tough sponge) • Kneading dough quickly, though…

1 COLEY Also called saithe or coalfish, it’s probably the least appreciated relation of cod and haddock. Coley has a coal-coloured back and silver belly with copious scales and a thick white lateral line. The flesh is pink and has a coarser texture but a more intense flavour than its relations. Before cooking a fillet, carefully remove the scales using the back of a knife. There are a few pin-bones down the centre of the thickest part of the fillet; remove those with tweezers. When cooked, the flakes of very fresh fish will be tightly knitted together. Great ways to cook Use it in curries and stews where the flavour will hold its own. You can’t beat it in fish pie and fishcakes – see p28. 2 CUTTLEFISH Under-loved but…

“Oklava, the first restaurant I opened, is named after the rolling pin traditionally used to make pastries and breads – including pide, this boat-shaped Turkish take on a flatbread or pizza. I love how versatile this recipe is – you can pretty much put anything that takes your fancy on a pide. This version is particularly good as it’s summery and surprisingly light, yet it carries some really punchy flavours.” SELIN KIAZIM, CHEF AND CO-FOUNDER, OKLAVA AND KYSERI RESTAURANTS A BIT ABOUT SELIN The Turkish-Cypriot chef draws from her heritage to create the menus at her Shoreditch restaurant Oklava and her new Fitzrovia restaurant Kyseri. After leaving catering college she worked for Peter Gordon (see p74 and p115) at his restaurants The Providores and Kopapa. She opened Oklava with business…

THE PAINSWICK The rolling, folded hills of the Painswick valley are the setting for this 16-bedroom Palladian mansion a 25-minute drive from the cookery school. Some of the rooms are romantically snug, some bright and breezy with a balcony, but all have the eye of a stylist in their design. The hotel has top-notch food, too: chef Jamie McCallum’s seasonal menu makes local produce sing. For drinks before and after dinner, there’s a cosy sitting room, complete with fireplace if you’re visiting in winter, and the small cocktail bar makes a mean espresso martini. Take advantage of the free wellies and maps if you’re up for a walk. Rooms from £159 (breakfast extra); thepainswick.co.uk…

Cook the tomato tart on this month’s cover and you could be off to Hobbs House Bakery in the Cotswolds for a one-day course with bread and baking guru Tom Herbert. Plus: you’ll get a ‘no knead sourdough kit’ with cast iron pot, proving basket, dough scraper and a jar of a unique 63-year-old starter. You’ll also receive a monthly supply of sourdough loaves for a year. hobbshousebakery.co.uk; see their Sourdough Nation Facebook page to find out how to be crowned #KingoftheSourdough FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… Make the tart on our July cover, take a photograph and share it with us** TO ENTER & FOR Ts&Cs, GO TO deliciousmagazine.co.uk/cookthecover **CLOSING DATE: 31 JULY 2018 MAY’S WINNER • Shireen Ferguson wins a private chef evening for her pesto chicken…

Sébastien Roy is the brains behind Fils du Roy distillery just outside Caraquet. He started brewing aged 14 and fermented his way through college. His aim is to make the best whisky in Canada, but whisky takes time, so he brews beer and distils gin and vodka to fund his project. Every drink Sébastien makes tells a story about Acadian history: his two beers Evangeline and Gabriel recall the thwarted Acadian lovers of HW Longfellow’s poem who were separated when fleeing the British. One is a fruity spruce beer, the other a nutty ale – unite the lovers by mixing the two in a glass and you get a wonderful balanced drink. Ah, sweet. Call or drop by for tours (facebook.com/DistillerieFilsDuRoyInc; distilleriefilsduroy.com)…

RECIPE: PIERRE RICHARD. PHOTOGRAPH: TARA FISHER. FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE New Brunswick smelts, boqueronesstyle SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, PLUS 3 DAYS BRINING & MARINATING Chef Pierre Richard from Little Louis’ Oyster Bar likes to serve smelts like Spanish boquerones (anchovies) as a starter. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Ask your fishmonger to remove the head and guts from the fish as they’re delicate and the flesh is easily damaged. • 16 fresh smelts or anchovies, heads and guts removed (see tip) • 1 tbsp coarse salt • 250ml white wine vinegar • 85g sugar FOR THE MARINADE • 3-4 garlic cloves, sliced • ¼ onion, sliced • ½ red pepper, sliced • 1 tsp aleppo (or regular) chilli flakes • 250ml olive oil…

PHOTOGRAPHS: UGNE HENRIKO, JUSTIN SLEE, CHLOE CHAPMAN, SARA TERESA, TOM JOY, REECE LEUNG, DEXTER PEARSON PHOTOGRAPHY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES WHEN TO GO Now’s the ideal time for a weekend in Leeds, when the days are longer and less chilly. Once an important centre of this country’s industrial heartland, the city now enjoys a well-earned reputation as a thriving, creative university town with great food, drink and nightlife. THE NEW-WAVE CUPPA Artisan coffee has taken off in a big way in Leeds, in part thanks to local brothers David and James Olejnik, who opened trend-setting café Laynes Espresso (laynesespresso.co.uk ) by the station after a mega successful residency in a Leeds co-working/events space. The food is as memorable as the coffee; try the Yorkshire rarebit – a wedge of caraway-seeded rye toast…

There’s nothing quite like the tantalising aroma of grilling meat wafting on the breeze on a hot day. It’s a smell that brings with it a whole lot of associations: good times, great food (depending on who’s doing the grilling!) and the embracing of an altogether more relaxed, easy-going way of life than we’re used to during England’s buttoned-up winter months. Do we become a bit more Australian? I think we just might. On the negative side, how many barbecues have you been to where the only thing on offer is a pile of charred sausages and maybe some chicken that’s black on the outside and raw in the middle? The tips on the right should help with that... It might be wise to leave this page open! This special…

SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, BARBECUE TIME 10-15 MIN, PLUS MARINATING MAKE AHEAD Marinate the chicken for at least 1 hour – overnight (in the fridge) will give the most flavour. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS If you’re using wooden skewers, soak them in cold water for at least 1 hour beforehand to stop them burning. • 1 large onion, quartered • 3 garlic cloves • Large pinch ground turmeric • 2 tbsp tomato purée • 200ml natural yogurt or whole milk • 1 tbsp paprika (not smoked) • 2 tsp salt • 4 large British free-range chicken breasts, cut into bite-size chunks • Vegetable oil to grease • Dried oregano and sumac for sprinkling over SERVING SUGGESTION • Lemon wedges, pickled chillies, flatbreads, yogurt and tomato salad to serve 1…

SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 2-3 HOURS, BARBECUE TIME 8-10 MIN MAKE AHEAD The sticky bourbon glaze will keep, chilled, for 3-4 weeks. Roast the ribs (steps 1-2) up to 48 hours beforehand, then cover and chill. Continue from step 2 the next day. Alternatively, wrap the cooled ribs after step 1, then freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost, then continue with step 2. KNOWHOW Baby back ribs are short, meaty pork ribs, not to be confused with the longer spare ribs. Look for them in the supermarket, where they’re often sold as a rack of pork ribs. • Sunflower oil for rubbing • 4 racks British free-range British pork baby back ribs (see Know-how) • 2 tbsp soft brown sugar • 1 tbsp mustard powder…

SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, HOB TIME 40 MIN, PLUS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Make the burgers (step 2) up to 1 day ahead. Keep covered in the fridge; take out 30 minutes before cooking. Cook the onions (step 1) up to a day ahead and chill, covered. NEXT TIME Use tangy feta or thin shavings of halloumi instead of monterey jack cheese. FOR THE BURGERS • 500g British 10 per cent fat beef mince • 75g pitted green olives, chopped • 1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 2 tsp cider vinegar • 2 tsp soy/tamari sauce, plus extra to serve • 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard FOR THE ONIONS • 2 red onions, sliced • 2 tbsp olive oil • Splash cider vinegar…

“ These pages are about us doing the hard work so you don’t have to. We’re sent anything from 40 to 100 new products a month, and we really do try them all: tasting, smelling the aromas, testing gadgets. Only if they’re useful, good-looking and value for money do they get the delicious.seal of approval .” KAREN BARNES, EDITOR FLORAL FLOURISH Edible flowers have become The Thing, their pretty colours giving a striking finish to summer salads, drinks, desserts and (very Harry & Meghan) cakes. Embrace the trend with sprinklings of violas, fuchsias, begonias and daisies from Sainsbury’s for £3 a punnet… So beautiful, so fresh. SAVE THE PLANET Cookery assistant Olivia told me about the brilliant products from Weaver Green, which she spotted at the Chelsea Flower Show. This…

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, REX/SHUTTERSTOCK CHILDHOOD FREEDOMS I grew up in Samoa with my aunties until I was eight, before I moved to New Zealand to live with my parents. I ran barefoot in the plantations and was a tomboy. We’d get papaya off the trees or cocoa fruit to make our own hot chocolate. There were always chickens and livestock around. Nothing came in a packet; we grew or killed it. KITCHEN GOSSIP We were taught to cook very young. I loved being in the kitchen with my mum and aunties, all the gossip. We had chop suey; fish with coconut milk, tomatoes, spring onions and lime; and lots of taro, a starchy root veg. Those are the dishes I crave when I think of my family. MY BIGGEST SUPPORT…

The CoolDrawer comes equipped with a compact storage tray and storage bins, so there’s plenty of space to comfortably store everything from fruit and veg to cooling drinks. The panel control allows you to switch between the five temperature settings so you have complete flexibility over how you’d like to use it. Plus, in freezer mode it has a handy Bottle Chill function, which sets off an alarm to let you know when your drink is perfectly chilled so it doesn’t turn to ice. Smart, stylish and multi-functional, the CoolDrawer is summer’s must-have appliance. For more information, visit fisherpaykel.com/uk , call 0800 088 6601 or email sales@fisherpaykel.com/uk…

Chimichurri chicken wings with spiced rice salad SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN (OR 1 HOUR IF NO FOOD PROCESSOR) MAKE AHEAD Make up to the end of step 2, cover and chill in the fridge until ready to cook. Make the salad just before serving. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS The chimichurri packs a hefty chilli punch. If you prefer less spicy food, add only ¼-½ red chilli. Chimichurri is a great sauce for other grilled meats and steak. • 1.5kg free-range chicken wings, tips removed, halved through the joint • 20g sea salt flakes • 2 x 250g pouches microwaveable rice – or 500g freshly cooked long grain rice • 250g cherry tomatoes, halved • ½ red onion, finely chopped • ½ bunch each fresh parsley and coriander, finely chopped,…

“Scandinavians do summer food so well. It’s wholesome, flavoursome, simple to make and naturally beautiful to look at – perfect for enjoying outdoors in a relaxed setting. Whether you’re in the garden with friends or on a family picnic, sharing delicious food outside in the warm weather helps to evoke a magical sense of summer.” BRONTË AURELL Smoked mackerel rillettes with rye crisps SERVES 4 AS A GENEROUS STARTER OR LIGHT LUNCH. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 10-20 MIN “This is a super-easy dish. Rillettes are spread on toast and are similar to a coarse pâté. They’re usually made with fatty pork (or duck), but I love making rillettes with fish. This recipe also works well with smoked salmon.” MAKE AHEAD Bake the rye crisps several days ahead and…

“Our native cherries are so magnificent that they’re worth worshipping during the whole of their season – especially as it’s so short. These plump, heart-shaped fruit have just the right balance of sweetness and acidity, so they work well in sweet and savoury dishes. And if you don’t have time to cook them, no problem. Eat them as they are, at room temperature, with a mild blue cheese and oatcakes for a match made in heaven.” DEBBIE MAJOR PHOTOGRAPHS & STYLING KATE WHITAKER Pan-seared pork tenderloin with cherry and red wine sauce SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN “This cut of pork gives you all the flavour of a roast in a fraction of the time. The sweet and sour cherry sauce is the perfect accompaniment,…

Choose pods that feel firm, with no large air pockets. Avoid any with dark blemishes. The beans from young pods (7-8cm) can be eaten whole but they’re usually harvested when they’re a bit older and have had time to grow and fill the pods. Beans from larger, older pods are best with their outer skins removed. The skin at the edge of each bean should be green or white – if it’s turned black it’s past its best and will be tough when cooked. Freeze podded beans in a freezer bag and cook from frozen. Keep fresh pods in a paper bag in the fridge for up to 5 days.…

We took inspiration from summer flowers – roses and ranunculus – and wove in hot pink and jade green for zingy colour. Most people have white china lurking in the cupboard, and layering that up with colour-block or patterned plates makes the eclectic boho look more modern. Seek out inexpensive ceramics at H&M and Ikea, and Anthropologie has some beautiful (slightly more pricey) pieces. A mix of floral and pale pink linens complements summer flowers, and we finished each place setting with a single flower or greenery from the garden. For a book club, a vintage book or wrapped paperback is the just-about-perfect final touch.…

FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE. PORTRAIT: TOM BUNNING When the melting moment meets the yo-yo… There are a handful of cakes and biscuits that form part of every Kiwi and Australian home cook’s repertoire. Melting moments and yo-yos are two of them. They’re similar in that they’re both biscuits sandwiched together with a filling, but Mum didn’t like the way yo-yos crumble, or their dryness (they contain a lot of cornflour) so she made a hybrid of the two sorts using custard powder from the melting moments and called it a mo-yo. Mum likes to play around with old recipes a little these days as she’s been baking for so many years that she feels the need to be creative. She does all her…

PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES Combine summery ingredients into a refreshing, spritzy, beautifully scented cocktail (see below). St-Germain (£16-19 for 50cl, major supermarkets) is a quality elderflower liqueur from France, marked with the vintage year. For your gin, choose the strongly flavoured Cucumber Gin by the English Drinks Company (£37, or £28 as part of mixed six, Majestic) or Hendrick’s Gin (widely available, from £28), which has a more subtle cucumber hint. The garden party cocktail (SERVES 1) • 30ml gin, preferably one with a cucumber flavour (see above) • 30ml St-Germain elderflower liqueur • ¼ tsp caster sugar • 20ml fresh lime juice • 100ml cold sparkling wine (prosecco is ideal) • Fresh raspberry, fresh mint sprig and crisp thin cucumber slice to garnish (optional) Shake the gin, liqueur, sugar and…

RECIPES: KATY MCCLELLAND. PHOTOGRAPHS: KATE WHITAKER. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH, OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS Tapenade pappardelle with ricotta SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 5 MIN, COOKING TIME 10 MIN Cook 150g dried pappardelle pasta in a large pan of salted boiling water according to the pack instructions. Meanwhile, make the tapenade: whizz 100g olives with rosemary and black pepper, 1 large garlic clove, 1 tbsp rinsed capers, 3 chopped sun-dried tomatoes, a handful of chopped flatleaf parsley and 60ml extra-virgin olive oil to a coarse paste in a food processor (or pound in a pestle and mortar). Taste and season with black pepper, a little salt and lemon juice. Lightly drain the pasta and toss with the tapenade. Dot it with 100g ricotta, scatter with fresh basil leaves and 25g…

RASPBERRY CAIPIRINHA Put 6 raspberries, ½ tbsp light brown sugar and 2 lime quarters in a sturdy tumbler, then pound with the end of a rolling pin (or handle of a wooden spoon) until the juice and sugar are well combined. Add 3 fresh mint leaves and bash briefly. Fill the glass with crushed ice, then pour over 50ml cachaça (sugar cane spirit). Stir well, then top with 3 more mint leaves and 3 more raspberries. ELDERFLOWER COLLINS Put a few ice cubes in a jug or cocktail shaker. Add 100ml vodka, 4 tbsp elderflower cordial and the juice of a lemon, then shake vigorously. Fill 2 tall glasses with ice cubes and strain in the vodka mixture. Add a slice of lemon and top up with sparkling water. CUCUMBER…

THE COOKERY SCHOOL WHEREThe Foodworks Cookery School, near Cheltenham ( foodworkscookeryschool.co.uk  ) THE COURSE Sensational Salads and Summer Sides cooking class & lunch, £58 (half day; includes wine) TESTER Laura Day WHAT IT’S LIKE The Foodworks Cookery School is set in a purpose-built barn in the heart of the Cotswolds. Owner Harriet met us with a big smile and ushered us upstairs to the mezzanine, where we had enough time to grab a cuppa, have a chat and enjoy the view over the bright, well-equipped school below. There’s plenty of space and each student has a set of chef’s tools. The school takes 12 students at a time, just the right number for a buzzy but uncrowded learning environment. WHAT I LEARNED Erin Baker, our tutor, is a vegetarian…

HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste experts. We conduct our tests without packaging, so our tasters don’t know who produced each product or how much it costs. And to prevent one tester influencing another, the panel aren’t allowed to confer during the tests, so the results you read here are unbiased. WHAT WE LOOKED FOR Lemon tart is a crowdpleaser pudding, and a supermarket version can be a valuable stand-in. The pastry should be crisp and buttery with a hint of sweetness (and no soggy bottom!). The filling can be curd or custard-based, but it needs a powerful lemon flavour and a good sweet-sharp balance. SHARING TARTS JOINT WINNER M&S Dessert Menu tarte au citron, £10 for 1.1kg This is a large (serves 12) elegant tart with a subtle…

ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES “The pies might not have had soggy bottoms, but the rest of us weren’t always so fortunate” Every car journey, every summer, my husband and I have the same argument: sunroof open or sunroof closed? I’m firmly sunroof closed. I like a sunny day as much as the next pale-skinned Anglo-Saxon factor 50-smothered person with an aversion to her hair whipping about and sticking to her lipstick. Which is to say, I like the idea of it probably more than I like the reality of it. There is an enormous pressure that comes with a warm day and that is – on our damp little island – the crushing responsibility to enjoy it. The weather forecaster has barely finished saying “sunny intervals” when some heat-crazed lunatic will…