Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2016 i Delicious UK

Two bank holidays, summer not far away, birds nesting… May is the month of opportunity (the clue is in the name) when you can – you must – head outside into the countryside on bright, fresh days to walk, breathe and snatch a moment of secret calm. In the kitchen, the enticement is just as strong: spring veg is at its best, there are new potatoes in all their soft, buttery glory, and tender spears of asparagus cry out for a smoky, salty overcoat and a dunk in runny, golden yolk. Start the day with joy… At ease… ASPARAGUS AND PANCETTA SOLDIERS WITH SOFT-BOILED EGGS SERVES 2 FOR BREAKFAST. READY IN 15 MIN Wrap each stalk of a 230g bunch of asparagus in 2 thin slices of pancetta (you’ll need…

RECIPES THAT WORK Every recipe is rigorously tested by our food team, using state-of-the-art Electrolux ovens, so you can be confident they work every time. INGREDIENTS We aim to use easy-to-find seasonal ingredients. We’ll tell you where to find any unusual ingredients and/or what to substitute them with. We use higher-welfare meat for testing, supplied by The Ginger Pig (thegingerpig.co.uk). This symbol next to an ingredient means there are more ideas for using it on our Loose Ends page. HONEST COOKING TIMES Unlike many magazines, our timings include prep such as chopping. Hands-on time is when you’re chopping, stirring or frying. Oven/simmering time is when you can leave the dish in the oven or on the hob. Indicates a vegetarian recipe. Indicates a gluten-free recipe. KNOWHOW Whenever you see this…

A ROYAL PICNIC To celebrate Her Majesty the Queen’s 90th birthday, 10,000 guests will descend on The Mall in London on Sunday 12 June for the Patron’s Lunch, a street-party-style finale to a week of national celebrations. And what’s a party without great food? Marks & Spencer has created hampers for the guests (most of whom are patrons of the Queen’s favourite charities), celebrating British produce. If you weren’t lucky enough to nab one of the 2,000 £150 tickets to the lunch in the ballot last month, or your personal invitation got lost in the post, you can still raise a glass to Her Majesty and have your own street party at home… We have four prizes of five M&S hampers to give away, each filled with products inspired by…

BEING CREATIVE What I enjoy about cooking is the creativity. It’s up to you to do it the ordinary way or to surprise yourself and others. Even when I’m off, I love to cook. It makes me feel good. GARDEN-TO-TABLE COOKING I love picking food from my garden, cleaning and cooking it, all in under 15 minutes. GOOD LOCAL PUBS When I go out, it’s about being with friends and family, talking and eating together – with a beer or two. I like somewhere I can talk to a farmer about the ups and downs of life. FOOD OUT OF SEASON I don’t know why some really good restaurants use asparagus tips from Mexico in September. Chefs should be putting out the seasonality message. TRENDY PRESENTATION Serving food on slates…

“These pages are about us doing the hard work so you don’t have to… Joy! We’re sent anything from 40 to 100 new products a month, and we really do try them all: tasting, smelling the aromas, testing gadgets. Only if they’re useful, good-looking and value for money do they get the delicious. seal of approval.” KAREN BARNES, EDITOR DRESSED FOR success What a find! This collection of table mats and napkins from online store linenme.com combines beauty with the robust quality of 100 per cent linen. Mix and match the colours and textures for a dining table worth Instagramming (#nofilter). Lara hand woven placemat in stone blue, £12.49; Rustic linen napkin in natural, £9.99; Venezia napkin in natural & stone blue, £8.99* BALANCING ACT They’re efficient and…

THE MASTER FILLING SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN MAKE AHEAD The filling will keep in the fridge, covered, for 24 hours or in the freezer in a sealed container for up to a month. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS The mixture may seem thick at first, but the fish will release liquid as it cooks, thinning it down. Salting the cod (step 1) firms up the flesh, so it doesn’t disintegrate. If using frozen fish, defrost it, then dry with kitchen paper. • 300g skinless and boneless sustainable cod loin, cut into 2cm chunks• 100g rock salt or coarse salt• Sunflower oil for frying• 30g unsalted butter• 1 onion, finely chopped• 3 leeks, finely sliced• 1 large garlic clove, crushed• ½ tsp mustard powder• 90g plain flour• 150ml dry white wine• 300ml fresh fish stock• 220ml double cream• Juice ½-1 lemon to taste• 300g sustainable…

“One of the things I love about sage is that, as a woody perennial, it stays alive in my garden throughout winter, allowing me to add herby flavour to many of my favourite comfort dishes. Indigenous to southern Europe, sage was probably, like so many heritage ingredients, brought to Britain by the Romans. Centuries ago it was used more for its remedial properties (its Latin name, salvia , comes from the verb to heal). In the kitchen, smaller, younger leaves can be used whole, but I remove the tough stalks and central ribs from larger, more mature leaves before chopping. Some people find sage overpowering, and I wouldn’t recommend adding it to dishes in copious amounts as it can leave a medicinal taste. On the plus…

Stir-fried tangy prawns SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN “Prawns are useful to keep in the freezer for emergencies – they can be cooked in a blink and in myriad ways, helping you make a meal out of simple ingredients in minutes. In Iran, you eat seafood only if you live near the sea. My grandma used to call prawns ‘joonevar’ (Farsi for ‘insects’) because of their appearance when whole, and she would never eat them, but I love them in all their shapes and sizes. They always make a dish feel special. I love eating this dish with rice, but you can serve it with bread or any grain you like.” • Vegetable oil for frying• 2 large onions, halved, then thinly sliced• 7.5cm piece fresh ginger, cut into matchsticks• 1 large garlic…

“Rhubarb is an obliging soul – as the forced variety comes to an end, its outdoorsy cousin appears; less Dolly Parton pink but still with that tart, zesty flavour. It’s friends with almonds and orange, and I’ve put all three into this cake recipe, which makes a great afternoon tea or, with a dollop of something creamy, a perfect pud. The rosemary gives an extra dimension, chiming with the amaretti. If you haven’t yet come round to herbs in puddings, this is a great way to start.” REBECCA WOOLLARD, FOOD EDITOR Rhubarb and amaretti cake with orange and rosemary glaze SERVES 8-12. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 40 MIN, PLUS COOLING MAKE AHEAD The cake will keep in a cool place in an airtight container for up to 3…

English Wine Week starts on 28 May. If you haven’t already, now’s the time to try the summery sparklers and delightfully scented, refreshingly crisp whites that the UK now makes so well. (The reds and rosés are improving every year and are worth trying too.) Events across the country include special tastings with producers, lunches and dinners, vineyard walks – even vintage car rallies and music among the vines. Visit englishwineproducers.co.uk for details of what’s on near you. You’ll also find more English wines on the high street this summer. Taste the Difference English Sparkling Brut 2010, Surrey (£21, Sainsbury’s), is a lively, lemon and mineral-fresh fizz with a floral scent and subtle peachy finish. Finest English White 2014 (£9, Tesco) is a blend of reichensteiner and müllerthurgau grapes –…

MEMBRILLO FROM QUINCE-GLAZED CHICKEN FILLET SKEWERS P80 MEMBRILLO CHEESE ON TOAST Toast a slice of good quality bread. Meanwhile, warm the membrillo in a pan, then spread it over one side of the toast. Top with cheese, such as brie or goat’s cheese, then grill until the cheese has melted. CHEESE TART Spread warmed membrillo (see above) over the base of a blind-baked tart case, then fill with a mixture of eggs, cream/ milk and grated cheese (for a 20cm tart case you’ll need about 3 eggs, 300ml cream/ milk mix and 180g grated cheese). Bake at 180°C/ 160°C fan/gas 4 until set. CREAMED HORSERADISH FROM HOT-SMOKED SALMON, AVOCADO AND HORSERADISH CREAM P112 PIQUANT DIP Mix natural yogurt with a little creamed horseradish and a sprinkling of finely chopped chives.…

1 Put 220ml cold water and 85g cubed unsalted butter in a medium pan over a low heat. Don’t let it simmer. 2 Sift a pinch of salt and 105g plain flour a few times to make sure they are equally combined, with no lumps. Tip it onto a sheet of baking paper, then fold the paper in half to enclose. 3 Once the butter has melted, turn up the heat and bring the water and butter mixture to a boil. Tip the flour from the folded paper quickly into the mixture, then turn off the heat immediately. Using a wooden spoon, beat the flour into the mixture vigorously for 20-30 seconds, making sure all the flour is incorporated and there are no lumps. The mixture will be thick and…

One of the country’s leading publishers of cookery books, Octopus, has launched a series of monthly events, and delicious. is delighted to be the media partner. Over the coming months, Cookbook Confidential will offer a smorgasbord of top cookbook authors and culinary experts, who will share their wisdom and stories. The evenings are being held at Foyles’ flagship store in central London between 7pm and 8.30pm, and the ticket includes a glass of wine. Choose from any (or all!) of the following evenings… LAST CHANCE TO BOOK! WEDNESDAY 4 MAY, 7PM An Evening with Sabrina Ghayour The award-winning author of bestselling cookbook Persiana will be talking about food, cooking and her latest book Sirocco (see p76 for recipes). WEDNESDAY 1 JUNE, 7PM Spice It Up with Cyrus Todiwala and Chetna…

There are a few key moments that whisper full-on spring is here. One is the arrival of British asparagus in the shops – joy; another is stepping into a woodland full of bluebells and shafts of sunlight, the air quiet and still apart from the sound of bird song and maybe the snuffling of a scruffy dog among the flowers. All the better if you can round up friends to come with you, leaving things simmering in the oven while you walk. Lottie Covell’s French onion soup, laced with sherry and topped with bubbling cheesy crusts, is the best type of slow-cook dish… The smell that welcomes you home as you step through the door will make everyone weak at the knees. Find the recipe (and other slow-simmer…

JAMES RAMSDEN, our London food expert, mixes it up with the latest comeback kid When it was a thing the first time round, fusion food fast became degraded, not because it was a bad idea but because of bad cooks (anyone remember ‘saveloy on a bed of lychees’ from the film Life is Sweet ?). However, after a period of letting ingredients speak for themselves, the most exciting cooks today have realised there’s no right or wrong marriage of ingredients, as long as it tastes good. So we have Duck and Waffle (duckandwaffle.com, see p86) serving eggs benedict with ox cheek and sriracha chilli sauce; Clove Club in Shoreditch (thecloveclub.com) and its amalfi lemonade with sarawak pepper; and the kebabs at Black Axe Mangal in Islington (blackaxemangal.com), made with ingredients…

14-15 MAY Food for Thought, School of Artisan Food, Nottinghamshire The cookery school on the Welbeck Estate hosts a series of talks from luminaries such as Joanna Blythman on food policy and Jeremy Lee, from Soho restaurant Quo Vadis, on the role of chefs. Olia Hercules, Bee Wilson, food historian Ivan Day and others will be on stage, too. Two-day ticket with lunches, £85; schoolofartisanfood.org 20-22 MAY Kerrygold Ballymaloe LitFest, Co Cork, Ireland The world’s biggest names in food and drink writing will descend on the cookery school for a weekend of discussions, demos and tastings. Speakers include Elisabeth Luard, Jancis Robinson, Prue Leith and Yotam Ottolenghi. If you can’t get your hands on a talk ticket, there’ll still be lots going on at the fringe festival. Tickets…

1 JUST ADD A G&T Unearthed, purveyor of lovely things to nibble on with a glass of wine, has enlisted food writer Sabrina Ghayour (see p76) to create a limited-edition mix of olives, herbs, artichokes and feta. Ten pence from every pack sold goes to Action Against Hunger. £3.49 for 200g, in selected Waitrose stores from 16 May 2 GO NUTS FOR THEM Nut butters from Pip & Nut are ridiculously good. No environmentally damaging palm oil, just whizzed-up nuts enhanced with natural ingredients such as cinnamon, coconut oil or honey. The one you have to try: Honey Cinnamon Cashew Butter. £3.99 for 250g from Sainsbury’s, Ocado, Booths, pipandnut.com and independent suppliers 3 BUTTER WITH VA-VA-VOOM Flavoured butter is a simple way to pep up a 10-minutes-in-the-oven fish supper. New Lurpak…

THE COOKBOOK Flavours of Sicily: Fresh and Vibrant Recipes from a Unique Mediterranean Island by Ursula Ferrigno (£18.99; Ryland Peters & Small) TESTED BY Susan Low Like mainland-Italian food with the volume turned up, Sicilian cooking is simple at heart but flavour-packed, distinguished by an abundance of sun-ripened flavours and a love of sweet-sour contrasts. The book’s Brit-alian author, Ursula Ferrigno, is a reliable guide to exploring the huge island’s characteristic tastes and regional recipes. She knows its history of invasion and traces Arab, North African, Greek and Spanish influences in what have become typically Sicilian recipes. There’s nothing particularly groundbreaking about this book. The dishes are mostly classics, plus a few gathered in the course of Ursula’s travels. They’re divided into chapters for appetisers and stuffed vegetables; salads; soups…

“Hurrah for May and the treasure trove of fresh new vegetables it brings. I love this time of year for its longer days and the never-ending stash of colourful produce – not to mention the privilege of creating recipes like these, which highlight the exquisite taste of spring’s tender young veg… And this is only the start!” LOTTIE COVELL, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR Pan-fried pork chops with roasted cumin baby veg, potatoes and feta SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 40-45 MIN • 350g small new potatoes, halved• 100g baby courgettes• 150g baby carrots, halved• 3 tbsp olive oil, plus a glug extra• 1 tbsp cumin seeds• 2 thick-cut, British free-range pork chops (250-300g each)• 100g feta, crumbled• 50g watercress• Lemon wedges to serve 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Put the potatoes, courgettes and…

THE FIVE TOASTIE RULES AS DEVISED BY delicious. MAGAZINE 1 The sandwich has to be made with British cheese: up to three types of cheese allowed. 2 It must be served hot. 3 There can be up to five separate components (the bread and cheese each count as one of the five). Our contestants were allowed to use a ready-made pickle or bring something they’d made themselves. 4 There has to be at least one other ingredient apart from cheese and bread. 5 Assembly should take no longer than 20 minutes from start to finish. MEET THE CONTESTANTS JAMIE MONTGOMERY Toastie credentials Maker of montgomery’s cheddar and ogleshield, a softer, washed rind cheese with a complex flavour (montgomery cheese.co.uk). Secret weapon Half a brick with a wooden handle. The brick…

Whichever category you enter, be original – our judges want to see examples of your creativity and style. l FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY Send us three of your best food photographs, each of them with or without props (but, if used, they must be arranged by you). The picture can be shot indoors or outside, in any setting: Photo 1 Still life ingredient(s) – anything you like. Photo 2 A sweet dish – cake, biscuit or pudding. Photo 3 A savoury dish of your choice. l PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY We want to see a great portrait with a strong food theme. The subject is up to you: it can be in the UK or anywhere in the world. We want to see an arresting image that reveals the personality of your subject. l…

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT IT Yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit that looks a bit like a knobbly lemon crossed with a mandarin. Its juice tastes floral and extremely zingy – a combination of grapefruit, lime, lime leaves and lemon. HOW TO USE IT The high acidity and perfumed flavour of yuzu make it an excellent match for white fish. Try it in a ceviche recipe instead of lime, or use in a salsa made with red onion, coriander, garlic and a pinch of sugar, to serve with meaty white fish. It’s also good whisked into salad dressings in place of vinegar, and will add a welcome hit of sharpness to a tropical fruit salad – though you’ll only need a splash. It works excellently with booze too:…

HARISSA WHAT IS IT? A paste of pounded chillies, sometimes with added garlic and spices or rose petals. A North African staple. WHAT MAKES IT GREAT You can use it in everything from marinades to sauces, on meat, poultry and vegetables as well as in bread doughs and on salads. WHAT IT GOES WELL WITH A small amount adds warmth to stews. Mix with yogurt to make an excellent marinade for meat and fish. I BUY… Belazu’s rose harissa is the best in the UK and is sold in most supermarkets. POMEGRANATE MOLASSES WHAT IS IT? The ones worth buying are made mainly from pomegranate juice, reduced to a syrupy consistency. WHAT MAKES IT GREAT A wonderfully complex flavour – sweet yet pleasantly sour. WHAT IT GOES WELL WITH My…

“Baamkuch is reserved for life’s major occasions, and it has a special place in every Luxembourger’s heart. I had a big one for my first Holy Communion and it’s the most popular wedding cake. When my parents tied the knot it was served crowned, in the time-honoured manner, with a hazelnut brittle (see above right). The name translates as ‘tree-cake’ because, when the classic log-shaped version is cut open, you see the baked rings like the rings of a tree trunk. Making baamkuch the traditional way at home is virtually impossible, unless you happen to have a horizontal spit in your kitchen – the cake is made by drizzling the batter onto the spinning spit, grilling layer after layer. This recipe, which was given to me by my friend Carole’s…

NEW MIDWEEK PROMISE Your guarantee for every recipe in this section: NO MORE THAN… • 10 ingredients • 30 min hands-on time • 650 calories per portion (but many of the recipes have fewer) • 10g sat fat per portion PLUS… • No unnecessary added sugar • Minimal washing up “We all have a few reliable, quick and easy favourites we can almost make with our eyes closed, don’t we? I loved finding out which recipes you cook most, then trying to reinvent the dishes – without changing them so much that they lost the comfortable familiarity that makes them universally popular. I hope they become dishes you make often and enjoy as much as the classics that inspired them.” ELLA TARN, COOKERY ASSISTANT THE CURRY Paneer and chickpea curry…

Lighter chicken enchiladas SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 1¼ HOURS, OVEN TIME 40 MIN HOW WE DID IT We replaced the usual soured cream topping with a light, tart béchamel sauce made with fat-free Greek yogurt. MAKE AHEAD Stuff and assemble the tortillas a few hours ahead, then cover and chill. When ready to cook, top with the sauces. • 1 large onion, cut into 2cm wedges• 2 large red peppers, cut into thin strips (about 1.5 cm)• 2 British free-range skinless boneless chicken breasts, cut into 2cm strips lengthways• Olive oil for brushing• 8 small soft flour tortillas• 435g tin refried beans• 60g reduced-fat cheddar-style cheese, grated• Chopped fresh coriander and crisp green salad to serve FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE • 1 tbsp olive oil• 1 large onion, finely chopped• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped• 1kg tomato passata• 2 tbsp Mexican spice mix…

OUR ROUGH MEASURES: HOW TO INTERPRET THEM delicious. recipes are written to be as quick and hassle-free as possible, so if an exact, laborious measurement isn’t needed, we use these terms: GLUG Hold the bottle upside-down and listen. The liquid will pour out, then thin as air enters the bottle making a glug noise. When you hear the noise, stop. DRIZZLE Upend the bottle (of oil, say) for 4-6 counts, keeping it moving. SPLASH Same as a drizzle but count to two. DOLLOP A heaped dessertspoonful of something soft, such as cream or ricotta. PINCH For salt, we use a four-fingered pinch. If it’s spicy like cayenne, it’s a two-fingered pinch (now wash your hands). BUT REMEMBER… If we give a more precise measurement, it’s because it’s important! TOP 5…

Food writer and baker extraordinaire Edd Kimber (aka The Boy Who Bakes) won the first series of The Great British Bake Off and has gone on to write three cookbooks on baking. He’s written this recipe exclusively for delicious. SERVES 14-16. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME 70-75 MIN “American coffee cakes don’t contain coffee ( just as tea cakes don’t contain tea). The key to them is a generous layer of crumbly streusel topping, usually flavoured with cinnamon. Mine doesn’t stray too far from the pack, using orange to freshen the taste, and pecans in the topping for flavour and texture.” MAKE AHEAD You can make the cake a day in advance and keep it in an airtight container. • 175g unsalted butter, at room temperature• 300g caster sugar• Finely grated zest…

“These fritters are ideal for tapas or make great canapés for a party. Piping hot from the fryer and dipped in the punchy, citrussy alioli, they’re irresistible and evocative of summer dining in Seville. You can use salt cod instead of salt hake, which you can buy or make. The fritters have a choux paste base made with butter, flour and water, which makes them extra light and airy.” YOU WILL NEED FOR THE SALT HAKE • 250g rock salt• 5 fresh thyme sprigs, roughly chopped• 4 garlic cloves, chopped• 600g fresh hake, skin on FOR THE FRITTERS • 100g rock salt• 1 large maris piper potato (about 400g), pricked several times with a fork• Salt hake – see above, well rinsed (or see tip)• 550ml whole milk• 3 garlic cloves, crushed• 1 bay leaf• Large fresh rosemary sprig• 40g cold unsalted…

In Fanariotatika, just outside Gaios, Katerina and her husband Babis tend 120 goats. In the morning she turns 15 litres of milk into mizithra cheese, then again in the afternoon. “I never get a holiday!” she jokes. One litre of milk makes a cheese the size of your fist. Mizithra is one of the world’s simplest cheeses: Katerina boils the goat’s milk in a huge saucepan, curdles it by adding rennet (or whey from a previous batch), then pours the curds into a cheesecloth bag and hangs it in the sun to drain for five days. The white, fresh cheese is then ready to eat. She also makes a more mature version that’s salted and further dried to intensify the flavour. It lasts for ages so buy some to take…

SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR “Every family on Paxos makes briam, each to their own recipe. This one is adapted from Roast Lamb in the Olive Groves by Belinda Harley.” MAKE AHEAD Make 24 hours ahead and keep covered in the fridge. Reheat to serve. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Serve the vegetables with lamb or toss through cooked pasta. • Extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle• 500g potatoes, sliced• 2 large onions, finely chopped• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped• 500g courgettes, sliced• 400g cherry tomatoes• 1 large aubergine, sliced• 1 tsp ground cumin• 1½ tbsp dried oregano• Juice ½ lemon• 2 handfuls mixed fresh flatleaf parsley, mint and dill, chopped• 200g feta or goat’s cheese, crumbled (optional) 1 Heat the oven to 190°C/ 170°C fan/gas 5. Drizzle a glug of oil in a large, deep…

“We’re more obsessed with filling our bellies than filling our hearts” There used to be an old lady who ran a fishmonger in Holyhead selling beautiful seafood caught in the bays and out in the Irish Sea. My favourite was the good old lobster, which was lifted from the water at Silver Bay, travelling a few miles to Holyhead, where it was sold to the fishmonger, then cooked and dressed for eager taste buds to enjoy. These days the supermarket in Holyhead also sells lobster – not from the cool, nutritious waters off Anglesey but from Canada. The North American species is less tasty, and most of what we get over here is caught in factory ships, frozen and shipped to Hull, from where it travels in refrigerated vans all…

SUBJECT: Ray of sunshine FROM: Jennifer Iden I’ve been an avid reader of delicious. magazine for years but recently, since the diagnosis of my son’s autism, I’ve used it as a means of escape from the tantrums. I was inspired by the simplicity of the lemon curd recipe from the April issue [p116] and it was like sunshine in a bowl. It was quick and easy enough to complete without interruption, and my son has just devoured the curd on pancakes. A winning recipe in every respect – thank you. SUBJECT: Renewed inspiration FROM: Karen Newstead I used to have a delicious. subscription but after letting it run out I hadn’t bought it for a year or two. After picking up the March issue I realised what I’d been missing……

MALAYSIA: RECIPES FROM A FAMILY KITCHEN £25, Orion Books, out 5 May MasterChef champ Ping Coombes’ first book shines a light on the spicy, tangy, sweet and savoury flavours from her native Malaysia. Recipes for roti canai (flaky flatbread), beef rendang, nasi lemak (coconut rice) and more mingle with Anglo-Malay dishes. The photos by Laura Edwards tie it all together beautifully. ELLY PEAR’S FAST DAYS & FEAST DAYS £20, HarperCollins, out 5 May Elly Curshen (aka Elly Pear), owner of Bristol’s lauded The Pear Café, is a champion of the 5:2 diet, and this book offers advice on how to survive the two 500-calorie days each week (600 if you’re a bloke). The calorie-counted fast-day recipes are the most useful bits, so more of those would have been ideal. Even…

HOME COOKING AND BLIND DATE Mum was a good cook. We used to go to the market at the Bullring in Birmingham once a week and she’d come home with a free bag of pig’s trotters. They’d go in the pressure cooker until they fell apart. Early evening, I’d be in my pyjamas, sucking on a pig’s trotter watching Blind Date . We thought it was a massive treat. COOKBOOKS: ROMANCE AND REBELLION When I started out I loved Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons book. I liked the romance of a waiter becoming a chef, and the way his mum inspired him. And Marco Pierre White’s White Heat. You want to be a rock-and-roll chef when you’re 17. I even wore a red bandana at the time. The…

Dinner is at Dylan’s flat in Fulham. Shall I take red or white? Maybe fizz? I could always text for some pointers – but Dylan and I haven’t actually met before. I’ve booked a seat at his dining table through EatWith, one of a handful of peer-to-peer dining websites (see panel, right) that put keen cooks in touch with food lovers looking for a more ‘authentic’ alternative to a restaurant meal. As I chat to Dylan and his girlfriend Sara in their open-plan kitchen and dining room, he puts the finishing touches to a dish he calls scales: fine slices of mackerel fillet marinated in sherry and cider vinegars and spices, then blowtorched to perfection and served to resemble overlapping fish scales. It’s the first of five courses on a…

HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste experts. We conduct our tests without packaging, so our tasters don’t know who made each product or its price. And to prevent one tester influencing another, the panel aren’t allowed to confer during the tests, so the results you read here are unbiased. WHAT WE LOOKED FOR The perfect bagel has a good bready flavour with just a touch of sweetness. The texture is the most important thing. It has to be soft on the inside but still able to hold a decent amount of filling without collapsing. It also needs a golden, shiny crust with the right amount of chew. SUPERMARKET WINNER Marks & Spencer Plain Bagels, £1.30 for 400g (five bagels) The bagels have a good texture with an inviting bready…

“If there’s an ambassador for seasonal eating, it has to be British asparagus. As early as the end of April the delicate spears begin to appear in farmers’ markets and grocers countrywide, heralding the return of spring and fresh produce. The unique, grassy flavour and crunch of asparagus call out for dairy and a hit of zing. Whether you drench yours in hollandaise or dip them into soft-boiled eggs, enjoy the all-too-short season to the full.” REBECCA WOOLLARD, FOOD EDITOR WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR Firm, green spears – fat or thin, short or tall, but not floppy or beginning to yellow. If you can find them with deep purple hues to the tips, so much the better – not that the taste will vary, but they look so pretty…

Sasha’s winning cheddar, pickled mushroom & wild garlic toastie SERVES 2. READY IN 25 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP We’ve quick-pickled the mushrooms, as Sasha used mushrooms he’d picked and pickled back in the autumn. You’ll have more mushrooms than you need, but you can keep them in a sterilised jar in the fridge for up to a month. To try Sasha’s make-ahead mushroom recipe, visit delicious magazine.co.uk/pickled-mushrooms. During spring, you can pick wild garlic in woods or get it at farmers’ markets, good greengrocers and at ocado.com and riverford.co.uk. If you can’t get hold of any, you can use a few rocket leaves and a little bit of crushed garlic. • 4 light sourdough slices (Sasha used a loaf with a touch of rye)• 4 thin pancetta slices, chopped into 1cm pieces• 100g…

The winner in each category will receive a state-of-the-art Nikon D5500 digital SLR camera, plus an 18-55mm lens kit, worth a total of £720 (RRP). Lightweight and powerful, the D5500 has a large, touch-screen high-res monitor. It has built-in wifi and it takes crystal-clear pictures, even in low light. It records HD video up to 50p/60p and has continuous autofocus. Each winner will also receive a voucher for a one-day course at the Nikon School in London’s West End, perhaps to try their new food photography course: see nikon.co.uk/training. As if all that weren’t enough, each winner will also get to work with delicious., either on features for the magazine or on the website.…

JOHN’S MEDITERRANEANSTYLE MENU FOR 4-6 Put the first four dishes on the table all at the same time, then let everyone dive in Garlic, anchovy and olive flatbreads Pistachio and artichoke panzanella Mackerel and beetroot salad Chorizo and chickpeas braised in cider Brown-sugar meringues with hazelnut butterscotch sauce Garlic, anchovy and olive flatbreads SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, PLUS RESTING “During a walk with my dad one spring, we came across a forest floor of wild garlic. The aroma was so intense – somewhere between garlic and chive. With the find, we made flatbreads. This recipe, inspired by that walk, uses normal garlic, as wild garlic can be hard to get hold of.” • 200g self-raising flour, plus extra to dust• 1 tsp sea salt flakes• 130ml lager• 4 anchovy fillets, drained• 8 pitted…

“I tend to be bold with my use of spices, and I’m not afraid to combine distinct flavours and ingredients to make a dish. My Iranian heritage and English upbringing created a culinary cultural blending. There’s a wind called Sirocco that blows across the Med, and it occurred to me that was the perfect title for my new book, a collection of recipes that reflect the way I – and many people I know – cook today. This is food inspired by the flavours of North Africa and the Middle East but uses the fresh produce, techniques and cookery styles of the West. The recipes aren’t rigidly Middle Eastern but showcase simple, flavour-packed ideas that reflect my own style of cookery at home. I was delighted when delicious. invited me…

ANNA ON FLAVOUR “Middle Eastern ingredients bring distinctive layers to a dish – I’ve been a fan since I started cooking. They’re bold and stand out, which is important to me because I don’t like adding ingredients for the sake of it. Using flavours from across the globe in everyday cooking gives you potential to be creative.” TOP MIDDLE EASTERN INGREDIENT “I’m the most ardent pomegranate molasses fan. I love the sweet-sour taste and it goes with almost everything.” BRUNO ON MAKING VEG SHINE “The thing I like about Middle Eastern ingredients is that you can layer flavours and taste every single one in a mouthful. When I was planning to open Grain Store, I quickly made up my mind that I needed to use a wide range of ingredients…

GRAB A BARGAIN • Taste the Difference Viñedos Barrihuelo Rioja Rosado 2015, Spain (£8, Sainsbury’s) A bright, dry young rosé, strawberry scented with a hint of rosehip. Sip frosty-cold with Spanish ham and olives. • Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhône Reserve 2014, France (£7.50, down to £5.50 until 23 May, Tesco) Soft, easy-going Rhône red, perfect for parties, with a ripe blackcurrant core and clove hints. • Truly Irresistible Chenin Blanc 2015, South Africa (£6.99, Co-op) Punching well above its price point, this well crafted white is bursting with yellow apple and lime. It wows with roast pork. FRIDAY SPECIAL • Paul Mas Estate La Forge Vineyard Marsanne 2015, France (£9.99, or £8.99 in a mixed case of six, Majestic) Ripe yellow plums with a hint of ginger mark out this full bodied marsanne.…

“Millions of people evangelise the health benefits of juicing, yet the scientific evidence is scant” Juicing is an international revolution. Led by celebrities and so-called wellness gurus, it’s been gaining popularity for years, with vast quantities of fruit and veg liquefied each day in the name of nutrition. Juice detoxes and cleanses are touted as cures for everything from flagging energy to bad skin, while juice recipe books make the bestseller lists and juice delivery schemes boom. It’s no surprise that cookware store Lakeland recorded a 400 per cent increase in sales of juicers during 2015. But is extracting fruit and veg really good for us? Opinion is deeply divided; while millions evangelise the health benefits of juicing, the scientific evidence is scant. THE FACTS Eating more fruit and veg…

“I recently spoke to some friends who were surprised when I told them I cook vegetarian more often than I cook meat. ‘Do you use a lot of Quorn, then?’ one asked. It made me realise that, for a lot of people, veg never take centre stage – they have to sit alongside something large and protein-heavy. Well, not in my cooking. These beautiful, great-tasting recipes would sit proudly on my dinner table. Veggie or not, try them – and understand that veg is much more than a support act.” REBECCA WOOLLARD, FOOD EDITOR New potato and onion tarte tatin with crispy capers and hazelnuts SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME 35 MIN MAKE AHEAD The mascarpone mix will keep covered and chilled for 12 hours. Put the…

If you love watching star chefs demonstrating their skills, as you enjoy good food and drink, this is the competition for you. We’ve teamed up with Foodies Festival to offer you the chance to win VIP festival tickets and top kit to re-create the magic at home. The winner and a guest will enjoy a day out at one of 10 Foodies Festivals across the UK over the summer – they start in Brighton in May, then tour the country from Bristol to Edinburgh taking in London, Cheshire, Harrogate and Birmingham, too. You’ll be able to watch chefs such as Rosemary Shrager, Atul Kochhar and Aldo Zilli and GBBO winners John Whaite and Nadiya Hussain. Best of all, you’ll get the VIP experience – a red carpet welcome with a…

On a guided walk with Sam daSilva, who runs offseason ‘live like a local’ tours between September and May (offseasonpaxos.com), we rambled through the countryside near Gaios. We’d missed the mushrooms of February and the wild asparagus of April, but we saw wild oregano and sorrel, and swathes of myrtle, which is used to make jam. Come in October and Sam can arrange for you to join in the olive harvest, staying with a local family, and getting your own oil freshly pressed to take home. She arranges cookery lessons too, often with foraged produce.…