Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2016 i Decanter

FRANCE Two leading Burgundy producers have increased their grand cru production. Domaine Faiveley has bought a 0.1ha piece of the Musigny grand cru to add to its existing 0.03ha. Even with these extra vines, its holding will remain the smallest parcel of this rare 25ha vineyard. Only about 500 bottles will be made annually. The Faiveley family bought the plot from the Dufouleurs, another ‘old, established house’ in Nuits-St-Georges, Eve Faiveley told Decanter.com Meanwhile, Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair is adding a Clos Vougeot grand cru wine to its output from the 2015 harvest. Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, who represents the seventh generation of the Liger-Belair family to make wine in the region, is renting a 0.7ha plot of organically farmed vines. This should produce about 900 bottles of wine, starting with the…

My other neighbour at Decanter’s celebratory lunch was Hervé Berland, formerly of Mouton and, since 2012, the director of Montrose (he had fished the 1975 from the château cellars). ‘I like this wine,’ Berland said to me, as we set about Penfold’s Yattarna 2008 (also from magnum); he seemed startled, impressed and surprised. And no wonder: it was gracefully seductive, its richness that of plants, which is to say both vibrant and fresh but at the same time marrowy and sappy, and much more than fruit alone. Its qualities stole up on us softly and unshowily. In wine, never shout.…

I REMEMBER THE phone call well. I was in my office and the final judging for the 2011 Decanter World Wine Awards International Trophies was taking place just a floor above me in the tasting room. ‘Sarah, you won’t believe this, but the Chinese wine has won the International Cabernet Sauvignon Trophy over £10,’ said Christelle Guibert, Decanter’s tastings director. My immediate reaction was astonishment, and then the realisation that history had been made. I also grabbed an atlas to look up where Ningxia was… The night the trophy win was announced – on 7 September 2011, at the DWWA gala dinner at London’s Royal Opera House – will forever stay in my mind. Nobody except the Decanter team knew who the winners were, not even the judges. There was…

TO CELEBRATE THE end of another year of great wines, three of our regular experts – Peter Richards MW, Sarah Jane Evans MW and Xavier Rousset MS – have chosen Decanter’s 50 star buys from the hundreds of wines rated Outstanding in 2015. Every one scored 18.5/20 (95/100) points and above during the past 12 months and are all still commercially available, with the selection taken from our monthly panel tastings and Weekday Wines, as well as recommendations from our writers that have been published in feature articles and supplements. Our three experts retasted the wines blind (only the principal grape variety and vintage were known) and judged them totally on their own merits. The tasting included lots of stylistic differences but our panel unanimously agreed on the final 50.…

Penfolds, Reserve Bin A Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, South Australia 2014 17.75/20 (92/100) £51.06-£69 Berry Bros & Rudd, Harrods, Lay & Wheeler Complex aromas with a mealy, leesy character similar to Meursault. A peachy, rich mouthful with nutty elements from partial new oak fermentation, bringing verve and complexity to a dry white with opulent texture and elegant grapefruit-fresh zestiness. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 12.5% Penfolds, Bin 95 Grange, South Australia 2011 18.25 (94) £287(ib)-£485 Berry Bros & Rudd, Farr Vintners, Harrods, Justerini & Brooks, Lay & Wheeler Super-ripe, sweet berry aromas –like liquid fruitcake: concentrated black fruits with liquorice, cola, spice and smokiness. Rich chocolatey flavours are underpinned by a structure of muscular tannins and a firm spine of acidity. Relatively forward for Grange. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 14.5% Penfolds, St Henri Shiraz,…

There are many ways of discovering a new and great terroir. Luck plays a part, but luck is nothing if you don’t know what you’re looking for; understanding what might constitute an extraordinary terroir is particularly challenging in these days of climate change. It was in the 1990s that Nicolás Catena Zapata realized he had to search for cool climates in Argentina. Jacques Lurton of Bordeaux provided the spur: he told Nicolás that his Cabernet Sauvignon tasted as if it came from the Languedoc. It was not what Nicolás wanted to hear. But the implication was clear: if his wine was to rival the great wines of France he needed cooler vineyards. In 1992 he settled on Gualtallary Alto: at 1500 meters it’s the highest and westernmost spot in Tupungato,…

Grape growing and winemaking have long been an inseparable part of life in Southern Europe, and around the shores of the Mediterranean. The history of wine here dates back at least 4,000 years and Greece has a strong claim to being the place where wine culture originated, and then spread around the world. It was the Ancient Greeks who gave wine its social status and prestige, protected by Dionysus, the Greek god of wine. Wine became a symbol of civilisation – to share with guests and to enjoy with food, rather than simply being another drink. The few years have seen a revolution in attitudes towards quality wine from Greece and today a new generation of producers is aiming to put Greece back on the world wine map, particularly through…

Janisson & Fils, Brut Tradition, Champagne, France NV 17.5 (91) £32-£38 Fenwicks, Harrogate Fine Wine Co, Blue Otter, Seriously Good Wine, Champagne Warehouse From the grand cru village of Verzenay, this 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay blend with 22% reserve wines shows real class. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 12% Salomon Undhof, Alma Riesling, Kremstal, Austria 2013 17.5 (91) £18.75 Lea & Sandeman Fermented for seven weeks in buried amphorae, racked into small tanks in the spring and lightly clarified. Lemony flavours, quite rich with stone fruit and quince acidity. A fascinating wine. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13.5% Henry & Jean-Sébastien Marionnet, La Pucelle de Romorantin, Touraine, France 2013 17 (90) £19 The Wine Society Cuttings from vines planted in 1850 have revived Romorantin in the Upper Loire: green summer fruits with rapier-like…

Simon Field MW Field joined Berry Bros & Rudd in 1998, having spent several years as a chartered accountant in London. He is responsible for purchasing wines from the Rhône as well as Champagne, Languedoc-Roussillon, Germany, England and Sherry. He became a Master of Wine in 2002. Field’s verdict ‘Gigondas has long been the Dauphin, hitherto uncrowned, the monarch firmly ensconced in the summer palace of Châteauneuf-du-Pape... But is the local hierarchy at last set to evolve, finally to eschew indulgent, alcoholic styles of turbo-charged Grenache, its progress well suited to the cooler vineyards in the hills? Gigondas is small, at significantly less than half the size of its influential sibling, yet it has wonderful and diverse terroir. Oddly, therefore, but irrefutably, it has a reputation for rusticity and raw…

• Domaine de Coyeux 2012 An accomplished piece of work. Richly traditional, with a vestigial rawness tempered by the sheer quality of the fruit, along with a sweetly savoury finish – deliciously contradictory, just delicious in fact. A great match for a plate of game. 18.5/20 (95/100) Drink 2017-2030 • Pierre Amadieu, Domaine Grand Romane 2013 At above 400 metres elevation, this is a northeast facing exemplar of poor soils, old vines and fantastic wine. The juxtaposition of sweetness and spice impressed, as did the integration of Mourvèdre and the wooden barrels, both done with subtlety and panache. 18.5 (95) Drink 2017-2030 • Domaine La Bouïssière, La Font de Tonin 2012 Uncompromisingly powerful yet fresh. Great wine from a cool pocket of the appellation. Dignified, dense, yet not heavy –…

GIGONDAS IS AN appellation that has had only four decades – less than half the life of an old Grenache vine – to grow up and show the world its true capabilities. Now, thanks to increased detail in the vineyard – canopy management, soil working, green harvesting – and better care in the cellar, fruit quality is much improved. Setting aside the habitual big players here – Domaines Raspail-Ay, Les Pallières, Pesquier, St-Gayan, Santa Duc, Château de St-Cosme, Pierre Amadieu, to name a few, the benefits now extend across small domaines into the world of the merchants, who don’t always have access to the very best crop in a normal vintage. Hence the general quality bar has been raised, as witnessed by the performance of merchants such as Le Plan…

Michael Edwards As a freelance writer, Edwards specialises in Champagne and gastronomy. In 2010, he won the Louis Roederer International Wine Book of the Year for The Finest Wines of Champagne, and in 2014 he was the first non-Champenois to be made a Confrère of St-Vincent de Vertus. He blogs on www.michaelbulles.blogspot.co.uk. Edwards’ verdict ‘This tasting was held on an overcast morning – mentioned only because low atmospheric pressure can sometimes affect the form of tasters and the wines themselves. Personally I found the tasting quite taxing. Main impression, blind, was how challenging the Brut Nature/Extra Brut wines can be. Most of the Champagnes were non-vintage, most likely based on 2010/2011. Neither year was regularly warm and sunny at harvest – the conditions you really need to tame this austere…

• Veuve Fourny, Cuvée R Premier Cru, Extra Brut NV A tribute to the late father of the two Fourny brothers. Pure Vertus (sourced mainly from Monts Ferrés), this is partly fermented in oak, in Papa’s style. Shows powerful personality, yet has lift and a racy finesse. 17.5/20 (91/100) Drink 2016-2029 • Louis Roederer, Philippe Starck, Brut Nature 2006 Roederer’s first-ever, Nature made on the principle of a warm vintage in suntrap village of Cumières. Composed of all three varieties picked on same day to highlight terroir. Warmth, generosity in Pinots, with abiding finesse. 17 (90) Drink 2016-2017 • Veuve Fourny, Cuvée du Clos Notre Dame, Extra Brut 2006 True walled vineyard, classified by local canons in the 19th century. Warm harvest, subsoil on purest chalk and subtle oak combine…

57 CHAMPAGNES TASTED in the Extra Brut/Brut Nature category yielded goodish, sometimes excellent results – though none today was unanimously judged worthy of gold standard. I would suggest that there are a couple reasons why. Thirty of the wines were non-vintage: years in these blends were not disclosed. At the risk of repetition, I think it’s worth emphasising my guess again that they were often based on 2010 and 2011, vintages that had significant pre-harvest rain, dilution and lack of ripeness, particularly in Pinot Noir and Meunier – not ideal for this more austere category. The other reason is less verifiable, but intuitively sensed: the weather on the day of the tasting was dull and overcast, and many agree that this can have an effect on the way wines taste.…

Stephen Brook Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and has won a clutch of awards for his writing on wine. The author of more than 30 books, his works include Complete Bordeaux, now the definitive study of the region and in its second edition. Brook also fully revised the last two editions of Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion. Brook’s verdict ‘Sandwiching the less-than-distinguished 2012 are these two fine years. The 2013 vintage may have been a nightmare for red wine producers, but the combination of wamth and humidity suited Sauternes just fine. Even so it wasn’t an easy vintage, with uneven ripening, and some grey rot among the noble rot. Overall 2011 was better: an easy harvest, with high acidity from the cool summer plus abundant botrytis…

Château Caillou, Sauternes 2011 17 (90) SB 16 SP 18 XR 17 £20.50 Corkr Delicate floral nose with intense flavours of mango, quince and ginger. Rich and svelte palate with good acidity to give plenty of cut and bite. Where else in the world can you find such a luscious wine with such a lovely finish? Drink 2016-2040 Alc 13.5% Château Suduiraut, Sauternes 2011 17 (90) SB 18 SP 17.5 XR 15.5 £39-£56 Corkr, Fine & Rare, Millésima, VinQuinn Opulent nose of apples, apricots and honey. Rich and creamy palate in a voluptuous style but with enough underlying acidity to keep it fresh. You can almost taste the skins of the grapes bursting with extract and life force. Drink 2017-2050 Alc 13.5% Château Doisy-Védrines, Sauternes 2011 17 (90) SB 16.75…

• Château Doisy-Daëne 2011 A tribute to the consummate skill and attention to detail of Denis Dubourdieu. Intensely sweet with high residual sugar, this is beautifully balanced with great fruit, acidity and freshness. 18.5/20 (95/100) Drink 2016-2040 • Château Lamothe Guignard 2011 When this small property gets it right, as it evidently did in 2011, this proves to be one of the bargain buys of the region. It has finesse, class and sex appeal, all at a good price. A smart buy. 18.5 (95) Drink 2016-2045 • Château Guiraud 2011 The new ownership team has made a great estate finer and more consistent by cutting back production of its first wine. A high proportion (35%) of Sauvignon Blanc in the blend gave lift. Certified organic this year. 18 (93) Drink…

Casa Marin, Viñedos Lo Abarca No3 Garnacha-Syrah, Lo Abarca, San Antonio 2013 18.5 (95) N/A UK www.casamarin.cl An arresting wine in both style and quality. Vivid, piercing aromas of black pepper, green olives and freshly cut thyme. Tense, focused palate is svelte and cogent. Midweight, almost ethereal. Drink 2016-2027 Alcohol 13% Lapostolle, Vigno Carignan, Empedrado, Maule 2013 18 (93) £23.99 Berkmann A striking example of the new breed of refreshing, tangy Maule Carignans. Tense and grippy, the aromas are still restrained, with notes of black pepper and dark cherry. But the energy and focus on the palate is tremendous. Will age well. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 13.5% Valdivieso, Eclat Vigno, Maule 2011 18 (93) £16 (2009) Bibendum, Excel A stylish wine where 33% Mourvedre tempers Carignan’s wild, exuberant fruit, giving it…

A LONG-STANDING CLICHE used to be that you judged Chinese or Indian restaurants by the amount of Chinese or Indian people eating in them, which ignored a number of markers, including the possibility that the chef and/or owners may simply have had a large family. A better indicator is where chefs eat, and a staple every year in such lists is Chez Bruce – an honest and moderately sophisticated brasserie, and long-time holder of a Michelin star. For this, my last regular restaurant column for Decanter , my 2006 Restaurant of the Year seemed an appropriate venue for a curtain call. The place has form, of course: Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay launched from here when it was Harvey’s, and Bruce Poole, who took over, was originally part of…

The French In 2013, Simon Rogan launched The French at The Midland Hotel in Manchester, where he offers his signature use of British-only ingredients. Working in conjunction with head chef Adam Reid, he focuses on local produce from the northwest of England, much of which is sourced from his own farm near Cartmel in Cumbria. Rogan has brought The French to the forefront of the Manchester dining scene with his seasonal and inventive dishes, winning a host of culinary accolades including the 2013 Decanter /Laurent-Perrier Restaurant of the Year. On Wednesday to Friday lunchtimes (12pm-1.30pm) from 1-18 December 2015, Decanter readers can enjoy The French’s six-course menu, including a glass of Laurent-Perrier Rosé, for £65 per person. Booking is essential and subject to availability. Please quote Decanter when booking. The…

La Villa Lalique, Wingen-sur-Moder Swiss entrepreneur, vineyard owner and wine collector Silvio Denz has turned René Lalique’s 1920s-built family home into a boutique hotel with six luxurious suites designed by Tina Green and incorporating Lalique’s original motifs, a fabulous restaurant and a helipad in the garden for airborne guests. Les Haras, Strasbourg An elegant quadrangle of buildings that formerly housed a national stud farm, now with a research centre, brasserie and four-star hotel with 38 stylish rooms. Hostellerie La Cheneaudière, Colroy-la-Roche A warmly welcoming, family-owned Relais & Châteaux tucked away in a tiny village in the Vosges. Start the day with the sumptuous breakfast buffet, then explore the surrounding countryside on an electric booster bike and end up in the stupendous spa before dinner. B Espace Suites, Riquewihr Local restaurateur…

Smoke/smoky Smoky notes generally come from oak. Normally the intensity of smoky aromas and flavours in a wine will be determined by the toast of the oak (how charred it was), how many times the barrel has been used and how long the wine spends in the barrel. If the wine is put into a new barrel that has had a heavy toast then the likelihood of having smoky notes will increase. This can be desirable if the wine has the structure to handle the oak. Sometimes heavy toasting and too many new barrels can lead to an overtly smoky wine, which may integrate with time, but can be difficult to assess when the wine is young. Smoke taint can also happen, when forest fires occur between veraison (when the…

Graham’s, 1972 Single Harvest Port £215 Hedonism, Bordeaux Index, Berry Bros & Rudd The first wine of its kind selected for maturation by Peter Symington after the family’s acquisition of Graham’s in 1970. Some 60% of its volume has since evaporated. Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame 2006 £120 widely available Made from eight grands crus, this 53% Pinot Noir, 47% Chardonnay shows superb quality despite a ‘chaotic’ summer, says the house’s chef de caves. Port Ellen, 32 Years Old £2,400 The Whisky Exchange The 15th in an annual series of limited releases from this cult Islay distillery, which closed in 1983. Huge, complexity of bonfire smoke and richness.…

A legend because… Michael Broadbent says the 1862 was not only the best vintage of Terrantez ever made but ‘the greatest of all Madeiras’. Scarcity has always given wines from Terrantez a high reputation, but few examples have proved more persuasive than this. Given the near extinction of the variety in the 20th century, remaining bottles from the 19th century have been especially prized. Looking back This wine was not originally made by Borges as the firm was only founded in 1877, by Henrique Menezes Borges. Like other firms on the island, Borges bought up stocks of old wines from other companies and from private collectors – this Terrantez was sourced from TT De Camara Lomelino. One of Borges’ activities was to supply other shippers with these wines, and many…

BELIEVE IT OR not, I do occasionally question why I buy so much Champagne. Mostly, this worrisome introspection occurs when my wife is scrutinising our bank statements. When actually drinking the stuff, any fleeting financial concerns disappear as quickly as the first glass is emptied. So yes, dear reader, I admit that I have a bit of a Champagne habit. Suffice to say, it is much worse (better?) at this time of year because, chez moi, Christmas and New Year cry out for Reims’ and Epernay’s finest. Like the much quoted Winston Churchill (another addict, I hasten to add), I am easily satisfied with the best. While sparkling wines from California (Roederer Estate), England (Nyetimber, Ridgeview, Gusborne), Italy (Ferrari) and New Zealand (Nautilus) will be consumed, the lion’s share will…

Italy set to overtake France as world’s biggest producer ITALY The International Organisation for Vine and Wine has predicted that Italy will topple France to reclaim top spot in global production, with the 2015 harvest set to produce 48.9 million hectolitres – or 6.5 billion bottles. That’s 10% more than Italy produced in 2014, and is the result of better weather conditions across the country, particularly in northern regions such as Piedmont. Meanwhile, France is set to produce about 47.4 million hectolitres (roughly 6.3 billion bottles) – 1% more than in 2014. Spain will remain the world’s third largest wine-producing country in 2015, with an estimated production level of 36.6 million hectolitres or 4.9 billion bottles, down 4% on 2014. Outside Europe, Chile is expected to see its wine production…

I’VE FOUND THAT the best pairing for a mellow glass of the good stuff is a decent wine documentary or film. There is something about watching others toil over the vines and worry about weather patterns that adds a more complete understanding of how it came to nestle so snuggly within my glass. I have enjoyed Oz Clarke and James May yomping around fantastic vine-growing spots in their Big Wine Adventure; the beautifully crafted A Year in Burgundy (recently followed by A Year in Champagne); as well as Red Obsession, the tale of Chinese interest in wine; and the tannic personalities in Mondovino. There’s also the occasional film. Jean de Florette would just about qualify as a wine film; other, more obvious examples include the slightly corked story of the…

FOR THE PAST six months, I have been cooking peas with a precision that had, until now, entirely passed me by. I can date back my awakening to March 2015, when I was lucky enough to be twice seated next to Michel Roux (Senior) at dinners held during the 2014 en primeur campaign in Bordeaux. Never, never use water to cook your peas, Roux told me in his astonishingly deep and dulcet tones. Simply stir continually with plenty (‘always more than you think’) of the best quality butter until they are just softened but retain their juicy texture, flavour and colour. That they be freshly shelled hardly needs saying, and when presented, if at all possible, take the time to cut each pea into perfectly even halves (ok, that last…

Michel Rolland and Javier Galarreta have come together to craft wines that highlight the great terroirs of three prestigious Spanish regions: Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Rueda. Michel Rolland is a famous name the world over. He is the son and grandson of growers, and spent his childhood among the vineyards of Bordeaux. He studied oenology in Bordeaux and has a well-known oenology laboratory in the Libourne area; as a consultant winemaker he has left his mark on wines from 13 different countries. He is one of the most influential winemakers of our times. Javier Galarreta is MD of ARAEX Rioja Alavesa and Spanish Fine Wines; he founded ARAEX more than 20 years ago, bringing together nine small and medium-sized Rioja Alavesa wineries. Then in 2001 he created Spanish Fine…

EVERY YEAR FOR the past few years, it has been my pleasurable task to select an especially interesting style or segment from the world of Champagne, and to subject it to an in-depth tasting and analysis. Last year, as published in Decanter, this took the form of a huge (and enjoyable) review of Reims and Epernay’s great prestige cuvées. In 2013 it was rosé Champagne and, prior to that, blanc de blancs was the object of my scrutiny. But for this year’s tasting, I have tackled something far more challenging: a comparison of two vintages which are similar in age, but very different in character – 2000 and 2002. I have wanted, and been waiting, to do a tasting focused on these two vintages for a long time. But only…

1868 Hamilton Crabb purchases land near Oakville 1877 Phylloxera louse first observed in Napa Valley 1889 To Kalon Winery wins medal at the World’s Fair, Paris 1899 Crabb dies 1920-1933 Prohibition 1943 Martin Stelling begins to buy To Kalon land 1950 Stelling dies 1962 Mondavi family buys 132ha of To Kalon 1966 Robert Mondavi Winery established 1979 First vintage of Opus One includes To Kalon fruit 1993 Andy Beckstoffer buys 36ha of To Kalon 2002 Schrader and Beckstoffer win right to use To Kalon name 2004 The Mondavi family lose control of the Robert Mondavi Winery to Constellation Brands 2011 The words ‘To Kalon’ are added to the label of Mondavi’s Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2013 Inaugural release of MacDonald Vineyards’ Cabernet Sauvignon…

This is a joint project financed by the European Union along with Greece, Italy and Bulgaria. Its objective is to highlight wines from the region with Protected Denomination of Origin and with Protected Geographical Indication. It covers the Greek wine regions of Macedonia, Peloponnese and Crete, along with Italy’s Emilia Romagna, Bulgaria’s Thracian Lowlands and the following Greek wine producers: Vaeni Naoussa, Alpha Estate, Domaine Skouras, Mediterra winery and Alexakis winery. We want to introduce wine drinkers to a new experience that comes from the region where wine culture was born and spread around the globe. Enjoy responsibly!…

Henriques & Henriques, WS Boal NV 19.5 (98) N/A UK www.henriquesehenriques.pt Although without a date on the label, this wine was thought to be 50 years old when inherited by the founder of H&H in 1850. Bottled in 1927 and recorked on a number of occasions since, it always impresses. I last tasted it in 2014: still rich on a nose of Madeiran honey cake and parkin; a tang of marmalade on the palate, not especially sweet or rich but with wonderful texture and intensity, leading to a fine, almost delicate finish that goes on and on. Outstanding old wine. Alcohol 20% Blandy’s, Bual 1969 19 (96) £240 Armit, Bordeaux index, Corney & Barrow, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, Turville Valley Wines An outstanding year for Bual, this wine was…

There are two kinds of gift: wine (which you might want) and wine-related artefacts (which you almost certainly won’t). The wine, at least, is fairly easy to manage. Faced with a well-intentioned but basically horrific bottle of Paraguayan Shiraz, you seize it with a well-practised leer and cry: ‘Splendid! I look forward to drinking this at my leisure!’ before burying it under a sofa cushion and walking away. The artefacts, though – the gadgets and accessories that your nearest and dearest assume you can’t live without – these are harder to finesse into nonexistence, not least because the giver is often sitting right opposite you, just dying for you to give the gift a first try. We’ve seen a number of these over the years. Some are almost but not…

Domaine de Coyeux 2012 Decanter average score: 18.5/20pts (95/100pts) Individual judges’ scores: Simon Field MW 18.5 John Livingstone-Learmonth 18.5 Marcel Orford-Williams 18.5 £28 Hallgarten Druitt & Novum, Vin Cognito Former owner Yves Nativelle built up this estate – in the beautiful heights of Beaumes-de-Venise, around the back of the Dentelles – to more than 60ha of Muscat, with a small patch of Gigondas and some Beaumes red. However the decision to paint a cellar beam resulted in an airborne bacterial infection that lasted years, with the wines slipping off the radar and the vineyard suffering neglect. Sold in 2013, the de Feraudy brothers are reviving it; the 2012 Gigondas is a juicy, stylish wine with notes of pine and lavender. Simon Field MW A bold and uncompromising style; tannins and…

• Pierre Amadieu, Domaine Grand Romane 2013 Top-grade wine can whistle an image straight into your glass. Here it is one of an autumn walk in the isolated vineyards of this high-up estate, surrounded by garrigue brush and olive trees. Genuinely deep, very lively, a grand do. 18.75/20 (95+/100) Drink 2017-2030 • Domaine de Coyeux 2012 From a small plot high up in the Dentelles, and representing the renaissance of an estate after a change of ownership. Based on 1950s and 1960s Grenache, this is bright and stylish, and carries local density on the finish. 18.5 (95) Drink 2017-2030 • Famille Perrin, La Gille 2013 The Perrins have been investing in vineyards and various other visitor attractions at Gigondas – they mean business. This is good, big wine with concerted…

André Jacquart, Mesnil Experience Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, Brut Nature NV Decanter average score: 17.5/20pts(91/100pts) Individual judges’ scores: Michael Edwards 17.5 Simon Field MW 18 Xavier Rousset MS 17 £52 Huntsworth Wine, Top Selection Slightly evolved nose with hints of praline and hazelnut, but also displaying fresh citrus, chalk and mineral nuances. Mouthfilling palate with a creamy texture, elegant fizz and fresh acidity. Very much in balance with some exotic notes to finish. Drink 2016-2018 Alcohol 12.5% De Venoge, Louis XV Rosé, Extra Brut 2002 17.25 (90+) ME 17 SF 16.5 XR 18 £160 Zonin UK Shimmering salmon colour with a vinous nose of rosehip syrup, mushroom, black pepper and strawberries. The palate wears its age well and has a savoury flourish and great structure. Quite profound. Drink 2016-2022…

• André Jacquart, Mesnil Experience Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, Brut Nature NV The extended name of this outstanding example tells us all we need to know here. I was overwhelmed by the maturity and richness of this wine, quite astonishing given the complete lack of sugar. 18/20 (93/100) Drink 2016-2018 • Chartogne-Taillet, Ste-Anne, Extra Brut NV Really enjoyable. This cuvée is fermented only in stainless steel, but this Merfy producer manages to bring out the best characteristics of both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with great aplomb. 17.5 (91) Drink 2017-2020 • Larmandier-Bernier, Vieille Vignes de Cramant Grand Cru, Extra Brut 2006 An outstanding example. I loved its generous style, its spicy richness and the sheer power on the finish. Plenty more to give here… 17 (90) Drink 2017-2020…

Château La Tour Blanche, Sauternes 2013 Decanter average score: 18.75/20pts (95+/100pts) Individual judges’ scores: Stephen Brook 18.5 Sebastian Payne MW 18.5 Xavier Rousset MS 19 £42-£55 Bordeaux Gold, Corkr, Fine & Rare Founded by Jean St-Marc du Latourblanche, the estate was gifted to the French government in 1909 with the agreement that a wine school was to be created on its grounds, and so the La Tour Blanche School of Viticulture and Enology was born. There are about 40ha, planted mianly to Semillon (83%) with a little bit of Sauvignon Blanc (12%) and Muscadelle (5%). The wines of La Tour Blanche are known for their great richness and sweetness. Stephen Brook Fine apricot nose, with considerable purity of fruit and integrated oak. Lean and precise, very sweet but has balancing…

• Château Doisy-Daëne 2011 This second growth excelled in both vintages, but the 2011 was exceptional: vibrant, textured, intense and very long, with exquisite balance. Denis Dubourdieu and his two sons show complete command of the Sauternes style and this wine, though approachable now, will live for decades. 18.5/20 (95/100) Drink 2016-2040 • Château La Tour Blanche 2013 A triumph in 2013, and almost as good in 2011. Because it doubles as a wine college, this first growth is often overlooked, but in 1855 it was considered the finest wine after Yquem. Now we know why. 18.5 (95) Drink 2016-2040 • Château Lamothe-Guignard 2011 The Guignard brothers bought this run-down second growth in 1981 and turned things around. Not every vintage succeeds (the 2013 failed to excite), but this is…

FROM AN OUTSIDER’S point of view, an analysis of the results suggest this was a disappointing tasting, despite the judges’ enthusiastic commentary. This is surprising because 2011 and 2013 are – and not just in my mind – two of the better vintages (especially 2011) since 1990 for these glorious sweet wines. Only 45.5% of the wines scored 17/20 (90/100) or above – a disheartening scenario in vintages where Sauternes and Barsac totally outperformed Bordeaux’s red wines. Yes, 64% of the wines scored a perfectly acceptable 16.75 (89) or above, but such a percentage must be viewed as disappointing in the context of such vintages. Even though two of the three Outstanding wines were from 2013, unsurprisingly 10 of the top 15 wines (67%) were from the better, more consistent…

denotes supermarket and high-street wines Veuve Fourny, Blanc de Blanc 1er Cru, Champagne, France NV 17 (90) £21.50 The Wine Society This 100% Chardonnay from 40-year-old vines on premier cru vineyards displays finesse and elegance rarely found at this price level. Lemony intensity combined with fresh apples and a creamy mouthfeel. Easily one of the best-value Champagnes there is. Alc 12% Henri Dosnon, Brut Séléction, Champagne, France NV 16.75 (89) £25 Roberson Good-value Champagnes are hard to find, so don’t miss out on this cuvée from a micronégociant that specialises in small quantity and value. Green apple fruit with lemon intensity, and crisp acidity on a complex palate. It’s an elegant and light style of fizz that will make an excellent aperitif. Alc 12% Domaine Gilles Morat, St-Véran, Burgundy, France…

THE NAME IS apt. This cosy wine bar-plus-restaurant will make you feel better. Formerly La Trouvaille, now with a face-lift, new wine list and a menu upgrade by consulting chef Mikael Jonsson, creator of Hedone in Chiswick, it’s leaped forward to ultra-modernity. This is what we have to call ‘new cooking’, but with flair. Seaweed, chickweed, nasturtiums, sorrel, lovage, sea aster and odd vegetables enrich complex sauces and stocks enveloping various fish, poultry and meat in surprising, satisfying ways. It’s deconstructed rather than reimagined. The wine list is nearly 200 bins of organic and biodynamc wines. We asked for something ‘not too wild’, and were rewarded with glasses of Domaine de Bellevue’s Granit Muscadet 2014; Domaine de Veilloux’s Les Veilleurs, Cheverny 2011; Domaine du Coulet’s Cornas 2013 and Domaine Ledogar’s…

This month’s experts Fiona Beckett is a Decanter contributing editor and publishes matching foodandwine.com Charles Curtis MW is a wine consultant and former head of wine for Christie’s in Asia and the Americas Christelle Guibert is Decanter’s tasting’s director Mulled wine This may be anathema to Decanter’s experts, but I’m looking for the ultimate recipe for mulled wine. Can you help? Jenny Young, Newcastle Fiona Beckett replies: So long as you’re not mulling one of the finest bottles in your cellar (which I’m sure you’re not), it’s not anathema at all. That said I’m not sure there’s an ‘ultimate’ recipe – it’s a question of personal taste. I personally think you need to add something sweet like a good slug of vintage character or late bottled vintage Port, or a…

IT’S THAT TIME of the year again – the time to draw up lists, make Christmas wishes and assess just who has been naughty and nice during 2015. So we asked key personalities on the fine wine collecting and auction scene for their thoughts on three key festive questions… Which wines or categories deserve rewarding this year? ‘The Burgundies of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair (see p9). Louis-Michel is a great winemaker and his wines are incredible. The increasing prices being paid for them show that collectors and the market recognise that.’ John Kapon, chairman of Acker Merrall ‘Mouton-Rothschild. Prices went more or less sideways in 2015. An exception was Mouton 1986: a year ago, it was trading here at auction at about CHF480 – now it is selling at about…

FRANCE Glowing reviews of Burgundy’s 2015 vintage helped the annual Hospices de Beaune auction achieve a record €11.35m (£8m), but the atmosphere was marked by sadness following the Paris terror attacks. Organisers and individuals pledged money to help victims. The 15 November auction achieved sales of €11,347,609, fees included, beating the previous record set last year by 39%. Early reports of a very promising 2015 vintage helped to generate enthusiasm among buyers. But there was a subdued atmosphere in the wake of the Paris terror attacks on 13 November, less than 48 hours before the sale began in which 129 people were killed and 352 injured. Organisers had earlier decided to press ahead with the sale, which opened with a one-minute silence and then a sombre rendition of the French…

An unnamed fine wine collector has paid $17,000 (£12,000) for a bottle of Château Lafite 1895 at retailer Le Clos in Dubai International Airport. Bordeaux wines from the 19th century rarely come up for sale – a bottle of Lafite 1895 fetched £6,670 ($10,592 at the time) at Christie’s in 2011, more than double its pre-sale high estimate of £2,500. Dubbed the ‘world’s wealthiest working actress’ by Forbes this year, China’s Vicky Zhao Wei has released wines in China from her St-Emilion grand cru. Zhao Wei bought Château Monlot in 2011 and has since acquired several other properties. She said the wines would range in price from CNY168 to CNY2,000 (£17.50-£210). The owner of Taylor’s Port has re-acquired the Vintage House Hotel in the Douro Valley, 13 years after selling…

THE SEATING PLAN at Decanter’s 40th birthday lunch enabled me to share reflections with one of my favourite Argentinian producers: the unfailingly optimistic José Alberto Zuccardi. His smile was broader than ever; the glint in his eyes as bright as I remembered. I told him how impressive the top Argentinian reds I’d tasted at this year’s Decanter Asia Wine Awards had been: dense, perfumed, succulent yet secondary, utterly convincing. Together, we enjoyed the soldierly, distinguished Château Montrose 1975 (from magnum), and we agreed that Mendoza needed to produce wines which could endure in that kind of way at some point in the coming decades. But how? ‘Andrew, we are trying to do three things at present,’ he stressed. ‘To use less oak, to avoid too much richness and ripeness, and…

L’Evangile 1996 has a Incredibly taut fruit structure that is still in place as it approaches 20 years of age – the cassis and blackberry flesh stretched tightly over the drum, resonating at near-perfect pitch. This is a vintage that has remained stubbornly closed at L’Evangile pretty much since its inception, but it is starting to soften, with the violet aromatics breaking their way through the tannins. Hugely beguiling from one of the more masculine wines in Pomerol.…

R&G Rioja Highly concentrated, dark cherry-red colour wine. It presents a lively, delicate bouquet with liquorice and fresh fruit aromas of the Tempranillo variety, with spicy hints, keeping the essential aromas of fruit compote. Rolland & Galarreta Rueda Bright straw-yellow colour. A fine, fresh and very aromatic nose with tropical fruits followed by melon, mineral and floral aromas. Crisp and round palate, where tropical fruits and citrus notes dominate. Rolland & Galarreta Ribera del Duero Intense, dark ruby colour. The bouquet shows attractive aromas of cinnamon, spices, lavender and black cherry. Rich, concentrated and fleshy on the palate, it shows a smooth texture, elegance and complexity with silky tannins, a succulent structure and excellent depth.…

Louis Roederer, Cristal, Reims 2002 19/20 (96/100) £185(ib)-£220 Asset Wines, Bordeaux Index, Clos & Cru, James Nicholson, Justerini & Brooks, Nickolls & Perks, The Finest Bubble My expectations were not entirely fulfilled on first tasting. Aristocratic and sublime, of course, but not as full-bodied as regular vintage wine. Retasting it recently, it was wonderfully honeyed and elegant, but be patient for further evolution. Drink 2020-2050 Alcohol 12% Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne, Reims 2000 19 (96) £125-£175 Albany Vintners, Clos & Cru, Bordeaux index, Harrods, Nickolls & Perks, The Finest Bubble Will be similar to the 1999. Today the minerality is excessive and it’s a bit closed in a magnum format, but oh-so beautiful it certainly is! Extremely toasted and almost flinty at the moment. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 12% Taittinger, Comtes…

Recent vintages Schrader Cellars, Beckstoffer To Kalon Old Sparky Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 19.5/20 (98/100) £1,868 (magnum) Hedonism A barrel selection of Schrader’s finest lots and bottled only in magnum, this is a massive wine, bursting with smoky blackberry, cassis, incense and creamy baking spices. Textural breadth and suppleness betray To Kalon’s inimitable signature. Drink 2016-2030 Alcohol 14.5% Paul Hobbs, Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 19.25 (97) £185 Alliance Wines One of the most sophisticated renditions of To Kalon. Complex aromas of creamy cassis, charcoal, cocoa and cigar box are the prelude to a layered, savoury and finely detailed palate. Drink 2017-2030 Alc 14.6% MacDonald, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 19 (96) N/A UK www.macdonaldvineyards.com Savoury and structured, this opens up in the glass to reveal brooding notes of black cherry, cocoa,…

Viña Vik, Cachapoal Valley, Central Valley, Chile 2011 17 (90) POA Berry Bros & Rudd A harmonious blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Carmenere (29%), Cabernet Franc (7%), Merlot (5%) and Syrah (4%) delivers an engaging impact of red and black fruit aromas. With time in the glass, a plethora of herbs and other savoury notes emerge to join the primary berry fruit. The suave oak – this wine has spent nearly two years in new French barrels – is beautifully integrated. Supple, fine tannins allow immediate enjoyment, but a decade of cellaring will reap rewards. Powerful yet elegant. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 14%…

Barbeito Founded in 1946. Eclectic, individual wines, often made in small lotes (batches), remarkable for their purity and expression. Ships to Japan (Madeira goes well with sushi) and to the US, where the Historic Series is outstanding. D’Oliveira Small company founded in 1850 and still in family hands. ‘We have never been in a hurry to sell our wines’ says Luis d’Oliveira, and consequently it has some fine, old wines. D’Oliveira recently bought out Barros e Sousa. HM Borges Small, family-owned shipper dating back to 1877. Remarkable old wines, especially those from the 19th century (see ‘Wine Legends’ p138). Scandinavia is its main market. Henriques & Henriques ‘There are only two names in Madeira’, goes the in-house joke. Wonderful wines, especially at the 10, 15 and 20 Year Old level,…

Upping the pace Early autumn is the busiest time for trade tastings and this year saw exporters and importers, wholesalers and retailers in optimistic form, while a very good vintage, already likened by many to 1985, was underway across the Channel. A joint-venture event between Argentina and Chile saw the neighbours across the Andes out in force over two days, with exciting wines at all prices and always lots of new discoveries alongside the classics. These two countries are where Australia and New Zealand were in the 1990s: moving inexorably from variety to vineyard as an expression in the bottle. Fortified highlight An event not to miss was the Great Sherry Tasting, with more than 200 different Sherries from an eclectic range of importers, despite the sadly continuing decline in…

WITH 92% OF the wines recommended, John Livingstone-Learmonth described Gigondas as a ‘very reliable source of genuine wines’. Marcel Orford-Williams echoed his view, and Simon Field MW felt the tasting showed the potential of the appellation: ‘Gigondas has a lot going for it: a wonderful location; varying terroir at different levels; the Dentelles de Montmirail behind, with the limestone backdrop; and the northwest exposure, with altitudes up to 600m.’ Orford-Williams agreed: ‘Gigondas has this wonderful ability to produce wines with freshness, regardless of vintage and regardless of quality. That seam of freshness was present throughout this tasting.’ Livingstone-Learmonth added: ‘Gigondas has never fallen into the trap of chasing excess ripeness and sugar.’ The southern Rhône may have a wide range of appellations, but as Orford-Williams says: ‘It is built on…

Le Plan des Moines, Les Vendangeuses 2013 17.75 (92) SF 17.5 JLL 18 MOW 18 £16.99 Villeneuve The nose has a supple coating of berry fruit and is fragrant, with some spicy Mourvèdre. The palate runs with vivacity and is well-choreographed and quite aromatic on the finish. A stealthy and polished wine. Drink 2017-2029 Alc 14.5% Alain Jaume & Fils, Terrasses de Montmirail 2013 17.25 (90+) SF 17 JLL 17.25 MOW 17.5 N/A UK www.vignobles-alain-jaume.com Black berry fruit in a sunny style on the nose, a touch of sea salt and hints of bay. Playful palate with a savoury backdrop and striking tannins. Needs some time, but is gorgeous, as in drop-dead! Drink 2017-2029 Alc 14.5% Michel Mourier, Les Fétoules 2012 17.25 (90+) SF 16.5 JLL 18 MOW 17 £22…

• Domaine de Coyeux 2012 The vineyards of Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes-de-Venise touch one another at this point. This estate’s production of Gigondas is small, but the quality here was excellent, and it is well worth seeking out. 18.5/20 (95/100) Drink 2017-2030 • Vidal-Fleury 2012 I was impressed by this wine from a venerable négociant – one who buys parcels and blends together to make a sum that so often is better than the parts – now owned by Guigal. The quality and attention to detail typical of Guigal was obvious in this full-throttle Gigondas. 18 (93) Drink 2017-2028 • Domaine Notre Dame des Pallières, Bois des Mourres 2012 An old name in Gigondas, where at least three estates have Pallières in the name. The Roux family are the owners…

SUGAR IS THE new evil,’ pronounced Simon Field MW. ‘It gives you diabetes, and makes you fat. Hence the current fashion for low-dosage Champagne. The dosage has come down in the Champagne category as a whole over the past 10 or 15 years,’ he observed, ‘from an average 12 grams/litre of sugar to around 9g/l. But is it correct to go right down to zero, or close to zero?’ ‘It’s totally driven by fashion,’ agreed Michael Edwards. People love the idea of something completely dry. Whether they like it in the glass is another matter.’ Edwards was relatively impressed by the category: ‘I think the wines showed themselves honourably, without any dramatic successes. I don’t think we found any gold-standard examples.’ ‘You’ll always be disappointed with this style,’ said Field,…

• Veuve Fourny & Fils, Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru, Brut Nature NV Veuve Fourny’s Champagnes often come out with high marks when I taste them blind. Under the radar for most of us, but worth highlighting, and of course tasting! 17.5/20 (91/100) Drink 2016-2020 • André Jacquart, Mesnil Experience Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, Brut Nature NV Delighted to see the hard work and quality-driven decisions of this family-owned domaine are paying off. The oak is better handled than it has ever been, giving good texture and an elegant finish. 17 (90) Drink 2016-2018 • AR Lenoble, Dosage Zéro, Brut Nature NV I rediscovered this family domaine recently: a great example of a passionate, energetic brother-and-sister team working hard to improve quality – and it shows. 16.5 (88) Drink…

THERE WAS NO question that our tasters were upbeat about the quality and value of these two sweet wine wine vintages, noting that they were certainly superior to their dry red equivalents in Bordeaux. However, they were less optimistic about Sauternes’ popularity and future among drinkers and collectors. ‘It’s still a very tough sell,’ commented Xavier Rousset MS. ‘People just aren’t buying it. And that is such a shame because drinkers are really missing out. The decline in sales of Sauternes is in no way a reflection of quality. ‘Overall, I thought this was a pretty strong tasting, with few poor wines and plenty of good ones,’ he added. So too did Stephen Brook and Sebastian Payne MW, who concurred that these are two very good years book-ending the lacklustre…

Château Rieussec, Sauternes 2011 17.75 (92) SB 18 SP 18 XR 17.25 £33-£38 Bordeaux Index, Fine & Rare Lush, waxy, stone-fruit nose, with some honey and botrytis tones. The natural acidity will keep this alive for many years. Very rich, succulent and velvety, with grip, structure and lots of finesse. Drink 2017-2040 Alc 14% Château Coutet, Barsac 2011 17.5 (91) SB 18.5 SP 17.5 XR 16.5 £41-£48 Bordeaux Gold, Fine & Rare, Lay & Wheeler, Millésima Voluptuous apricot and pineapple nose that is quite lifted and aromatic. Racy with great purity of fruit and concentration but not too dense. Tangy with excellent balance and a fine future. Delicious! Drink 2016-2035 Alc 14% Château Doisy-Daëne, Barsac 2013 17 (90) SB 17.75 SP 16.5 XR 17 £27.50-£28.33 Bordeaux Gold, Corkr, Millésima, Lay…

• Château La Tour Blanche 2011 What a great surprise! While I have tasted and sold many bottles of La Tour Blanche over the years, I wasn’t expecting the level of finesse and elegance from this 2013. Very subtle use of oak, lovely texture and great depth. Well done! 19/20 (96/100) Drink 2016-2040 • Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2013 I’ve always been impressed by this estate and the 2013 is another good vintage. Silvio Denz bought the domaine in 2014 with a quality-focused, long-term vision. This will potentially be a game-changer for this estate if the ambitions of the new ownership are reflected in the quality. 18.5 (95) Drink 2017-2040 • Château Doisy-Daëne 2011 I really enjoyed this rich, complex and delicate style – a real stand-out for me in this tasting.…

CHILE MADE ITS name on the back of Bordeaux: Cabernet, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. Since the turn of the century, however, there has been a growing focus on Mediterranean varieties, including those from the Rhône. Syrah is chief among these, having gone from a standing start to nearly 8,000 hectares in just 15 years. But the likes of Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan and Cinsault are also increasingly important. The purpose of this tasting was to take a closer look at Chile’s reds made from Rhône varieties – either single varietal or blends – but not based primarily on Syrah, which tends to hog the limelight. Some 37 wines were submitted for the blind tasting, held at Decanter HQ. The most notable aspect of this line-up is the predominance of wines from…

ABS Wine Agencies, Lincs (www.abswineagencies.co.uk) AC Gallie, Jersey (www.acgallie.com) AdVini (uk.advini.com) AG Wines, London (www.agwines.com) Albany Vintners, Cambridge (www.albanyvintners.com) All About Wine (www.allaboutwine.co.uk) Alliance Wine, Ayrshire (www.alliancewine.co.uk) Amathus, London (www.amathusdrinks.com) Amps Fine Wines, Northants (www.ampsfinewines.co.uk) Anglia Wines, Cambridgeshire (www.angliawines.co.uk) Armit Wines, London W11 (www.armit.co.uk) Asda (www.asda.co.uk) Aske Wine, London (www.askewine.co.uk) Asset Wines, London (www.assetwines.com) Barwell & Jones, Ipswich (www.barwellandjones.com) Berkmann, London (www.berkmann.co.uk) Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (www.bbr.com) Best Cellars (www.bestcellars.co.uk) Bibendum PLB, London NW1 (www.bibendum-wine.co.uk) Big Red Wine Co, Suffolk (www.bigredwine.co.uk) Blanco & Gomez, London (020 7352 8680) Blue Otter Wines, Hertfordshire (www.blueotterwines.com) Booths (www.booths.co.uk) Bordeaux Gold (www.bordeauxgoldsauternes.com) Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (www.bordeauxindex.com) Borough Wines (www.boroughwines.com) Bottle Apostle, London (www.bottleapostle.com) Boutinot Wines, Cheshire (www.boutinot.com) Bowes Wine, Wiltshire (www.boweswine.co.uk) Brook & Vine, Sussex (www.brookandvine.co.uk) Burgess & Hall (www.burgessandhall.com) Butlers…

Graziella, 116 Rue McGill, Montréal, Québec City, Canada H2Y 2E5 Tel: +1 (514) 876 0116 www.restaurantgraziella.ca Lambert became a Master Sommelier and Best Sommelier of Canada in 2015; in 2006 she was named Best Sommelier of the Americas If I was dining at your restaurant, what is the one dish I should order? Which wine/s would you recommend with it and why? Mushrooms offer an array of flavours for the wine lover. Graziella Battista, our chef, prepares ricotta and grana padano gnocchi served with a vine cherry tomato and wild mushroom ragout. The gnocchi are soft and creamy and the mushrooms earthy, while the tomatoes bring perfect acidity and sweetness. It’s a plate of pure pleasure and comfort, perfect as the evenings are getting colder. My wine suggestion to accompany the…

Asparagus: white is king in spring in Alsace, typically boiled and served with ham, vinaigrette and hollandaise. Baeckeoffe: pork, lamb, beef and vegetables marinated for several days in Riesling and baked for hours in the typical decorated ceramic casserole. Choucroute: the raw material (shredded, salted white cabbage, preserved in the autumn) has given its name to the classic Alsace dish. Traditionally a choucroute comes garnished with smoked pork, ham and sausages but there are some great modern interpretations, from choucroute with fish (salmon, monkfish, pike-perch) to chef Michel Husser’s succulent version featuring suckling pig and seared foie gras (see main text on Le Cerf, p120). Coq au Riesling: chicken – or better still, a cockerel – simmered in Riesling with added mushrooms and cream, traditionally served with finely cut, home-made…

Cinsaut/Cinsault Although Cinsaut is the 25th most planted variety, in its home of southern France it rarely takes centre stage; for both reds and rosés it is generally blended with Grenache and/or Syrah and/or Carignan. According to Kym Anderson’s Which Winegrape Varieties are Grown Where, in 2010 there were more than 36,000ha planted around the world. However underrated it may be in France, it has always been important in South Africa – if only as a high-yielding workaday variety; indeed, it was the most planted dark-skinned variety until Cabernet Sauvignon took over in 1993. There are still more than 2,000ha in South Africa and in some regions, notably Swartland, the gnarly old bushvines are treated with increased respect – a turnaround also seen in Chile’s Itata Valley (see p110). Wines…

HDH record Bordeaux auction Hart Davis Hart’s annual Celebration of Bordeaux auction in Chicago raised a record-breaking total of more than US$6.3m (£4.2m), just shy of the sale’s high pre-sale estimate of $6.7m (£4.4m). The company reported interest from hundreds of bidders from all over the world. The two-day auction featured more than 140 châteaux, spanning 62 vintages (see box, right). Zachys flash sale ‘success’ Zachys said the sale claimed as the wine auction world’s first ‘flash auction’ was a resounding success, with the five-hour sale in November realising US$17,885 (£11,770), just above the high estimate, for a total of nine lots from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, covering 12 bottles from 1993 and 1999. The top lot was a bottle of DRC, La Tâche 1993, which fetched US$2,940 (£1,935).…

• Sotheby’s, London, 21 October three double magnums of Mouton 2000 sold for £11,515 (high estimate: £10,000); nine bottles of Haut-Brion 1961 sold for £11,515 (high e: £8,500); six magnums of Mouton 2000 sold for £11,163 (high e: £10,000); six magnums of Lafite 2000 sold for £11,163 (high e: £11,000); six bottles of Pétrus 1989 sold for £11,163 (high e: £14,000); three magnums of Pétrus 2001 sold for £7,638 (high e: £8,000); 12 bottles of Cheval Blanc 1990 sold for £6,463 (high e: £10,000). • Hart Davis Hart, Chicago, 30-31 October six magnums of Le Pin 1982 sold for $101,575 (high e: $75,000); 12 bottles of Lafite 1982 sold for $28,680 (high e: $30,000); six bottles of Lafleur 1982 sold for $28,680 (high e: $28,000); 12 bottles of Pétrus 1989…