Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2025 i Decanter

A balmy June evening seemed like the perfect time to head to a regional tasting of Picpoul de Pinet. As well as 30 current releases, eight wines were presented in a masterclass that focused on the newish ‘Patience’ concept. To qualify for the unofficial selection, wines must demonstrate gastronomic potential, above average complexity and evident ageing potential. The goal is to elevate Picpoul in the public consciousness, so that it is considered one of the great white wines of the Languedoc. A few back vintages proved that Picpoul can age well (see below), but for me it was a bit hit and miss. And it got me thinking: Why can’t Picpoul de Pinet be deemed a great wine in its delicious, lemony, fresh, saline, youthful expression? It has certainly gained…

It comes into flower at February’s end each year, our mimosa. The little tree explodes as thousands of tiny lemon-yellow pincushions cluster its spindly branches. We walk out on cool mornings into a mist of hauntingly sweet, powdery scents. Our almond tree flowers even earlier, though less prolifically; it has a similar though subtler fragrance. Then there’s the scent of toasted almonds themselves, and honey, too – and perhaps the two compounded… in nougat. Could we add hawthorn? Honeysuckle, maybe, and linden? Welcome to scent heaven. Now: find me a white wine that smells like that. Guess what? There is one. These are all scents you might hope to chance on in a glass of a fresh young white made from the Clairette grape variety. They were also some of…

Don’t tell anyone, but whenever people start talking about rocks, I panic. I’ve got the basics down – clay, gravel, limestone and the like – but if you were to quiz me on the nuances between schist and shale, tufo and tufa… well, that’s where you lose me. I’ve had Alex Maltman’s first book, Vineyards, Rocks, & Soils (Oxford University Press, 2018), for years, and although I occasionally open it in an earnest attempt to get past my aforementioned anxiety, I find Netflix, dusting or, well, almost anything else to be much more tempting than facing my fear. But Maltman seems determined not to let me live on in geologically ignorant bliss, and a collection of his writing (much of which previously featured in The World of Fine Wine) has…

AskDecanter Each month our experts answer your burning wine questions. Email your queries to editor@decanter.com Naturally worse? Q Is organic wine more prone to faults than non-organic wine? Virginia Compton, Birmingham A Greg Dunn, industry development and technical manager in the Wine Services group of Campden BRI, replies: Wine faults and taints can arise from winemaking issues, environmental contamination and transport or storage conditions. Conventional winemakers manage oxidative faults and microbial spoilage using sulphur dioxide (SO₂), alongside control of wine pH and hygiene. They also focus on fruit health, careful transfers, filtration and clarification. In the UK, the EU and elsewhere, ‘organic’ wine is made from grapes grown without the use of synthetic fertilisers or pesticides. Organic winemaking also limits additives. For example, the EU cap for SO₂ in organic…

Our ambition for this comprehensive tasting, covering all of Catalonia’s DOs and IGPs, was to highlight a different side to a region better known for its reds. Alongside DOs where white wines are indeed the specialism and focus (Penedès, Alella, Pla de Bages), there was also a strong showing from counterparts where reds reign (Priorat, Montsant, Terra Alta and the like). ‘The whites from Montsant were a real surprise,’ said Pierre Mansour. ‘As a buyer it made me look at the region differently. It is producing world-class whites that consumers should explore.’ Unsurprisingly, entries were heavy on wines from Penedès, but the top-scoring line-up reflects the diversity and quality found across Catalonia. For Luis Gámiz, the tasting showed ‘a region where the [white] category is rapidly developing, with producers making…

BEVERLEY BLANNING MW Who? A widely published wine writer, author, educator and presenter, Beverley has been a Master of Wine since 2001 and is a longstanding Senior Judge in the Decanter World Wine Awards. Her latest book Wines of the Loire Valley was published by Académie du Vin Library in October 2024 (£35) What? From bistro favourite to fine wine, has Sancerre finally joined the ranks of France’s finest whites? Beverley looks at the rise in quality of the flagship Loire appellation Why? The Loire has been Beverley’s second home for the last few years, as she researched her new book (see p81), giving her invaluable insights into trends in the region GEMMA HADLEY Who? A freelance wine writer, communicator and consultant with a focus on sustainability, Gemma is an…

On a recent trip to Boston, I got to thinking about how absurdly important beverage tariffs can be. These United States, you see, wouldn’t exist without high tea – and high tea taxes. When the British crown taxed our tea imports to raise revenue, it assumed that the colonists wouldn’t dare forgo the snobbish daily ritual of hot water, scones and clotted cream. But our forefathers tossed that tea into the sea. And, voilà!... America. Indeed, over time, political leaders have repeatedly miscalculated when slapping high-end beverages – such as tea and, more to the point, wine – with tariffs. How fortifications bred oddball grapes Medieval citadels, with their narrow arrow slits and deep moats, weren’t erected merely for defence, tourist selfies and Monty Python movie scenes. In fact, they…

It’s fair to say that the use of oak is among the most important influences on a wine’s flavour and overall character. In recent years, many winemakers have been dialling back their oak use, in search of more freshness and ‘terroir transparency’, but what if you could change the flavours imparted by the oak itself? To make a wine barrel, the oak is first turned into long, narrow staves, which are then left outdoors to ‘season’, the purpose of which is mostly to dry out the wood. After the staves have been shaped, bent and bound together to form a barrel, the inside is ‘toasted’, using a small fire to heat the wood, caramelising its natural sugars and bringing out complex compounds. The two main types of oak used in…

Hot wine is murder. Beyond 22°C, wine begins to fall apart. Touch 25°C and it’s game over: the wine has become soup. Where my family and I live in Languedoc, it’s 25°C or more for five months a year – so between April and October, all wines go into the fridge. (We keep our fridge at 7°C in summer.) Between November and March, all the wines go outside the front door; we have cool winters. If Jack Frost is about, I put them on the windowsill, inside the exterior blinds. Yes, you’re right: this means that the day’s first glass of red wine will often be chilled. For lighter red wines, a mid-chill (14°C) is optimal. For dense reds, some might feel a chill is sub-optimal – but in winter,…

1 Black Tot Finest Caribbean £38.99-£59.95/70cl Widely available Black Tot has revamped its Finest Caribbean expression with new packaging and an approachable new blend that now includes Trinidad rum alongside the original trio of spirits from Barbados, Jamaica and Guyana. The Trinidad element adds sweet tropical fruit and ripe peach notes to the nose and palate, alongside golden toffee, crème brûlée, vanilla fudge and lingering cinnamon spice. Great for a rum punch at summer parties! Alcohol 46.2% 2 Goslings Spirited Seas Ocean Aged Rum Volume II £50.95-£59.99/70cl Drink Finder, Liquor Library, Master of Malt, Simply Wines Direct, The Whisky Exchange, Vine Whisperer As its name suggests, this Bermuda rum is aged at sea. Barrels are shipped 59,920 nautical miles (11,100km) on more than 80 voyages between Bermuda and the US,…

For as long as I’ve been writing about wine there’s been an orthodoxy when it comes to pairing it with barbecue, as it’s been known until recently. The assumption is that it involves punchy marinades and heavily charred food (usually meat), which call for bold, fruity reds. Now that pretty much every self-respecting restaurant has its own open fire, perceptions have changed. Asado, as it’s now more fashionably known, is all about subtlety: char yes, but smoke and even different woods. Live fire has entered the world of fine dining. ‘Food cooked on the barbecue is not always punchy and intense – it depends on the type of oak (different oaks from different regions give different flavours to the final product), as well as the elements of and the idea…

St-Emilion’s young visionary targeting young Bordeaux lovers GEORGIE HINDLE Born in St-Emilion on Bordeaux’s Right Bank, Paul Junet is a talented, sixth-generation winemaker with regional family roots that date back to 1858. At 35, Junet – who studied oenology at Bordeaux University and honed his craft at Napa’s Harlan Estate and Burgundy’s Louis Latour – makes wine at several Bordeaux estates, including his family’s St-Emilion Grand Cru Château Clos Junet (the 2022 is delicious – ripe and heady with fine tannins and fresh acidity: £24.31 vinatis.co.uk). He’s also reviving his ancestors’ Grand Mirande label, which emphasises unique terroir identities through distinct lieux-dits, similar to climats, via bottlings of single varieties or blends. Currently ageing, the 2023 Merlot-driven Grand Mirande Berthonneau, from a clay-rich terroir, offers silky tannins and vibrant, crystalline…

Matthieu Godmé-Guillaume, VVV 1er Cru Extra Brut, Champagne, France NV £40 Berry Bros & Rudd A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Citrus, honey, white bread roll and white mushroom aromas lead to an elegant palate with a clean mineral core, layered with creamy citrus, stone fruit, crisp apple and gentle savoury nuances. JS Alc 12% Lightfoot & Wolfville, Blanc de Blanc Brut, Nova Scotia, Canada 2016 £32.50-£35 Good Wine Good People, The Grape Kitchen This estate’s traditional-method wines really deliver – especially this single-vineyard blanc de blanc. This vintage spent 46 months on its lees, giving toasted-oat depth to go with its red apple juiciness and salty lemon bite. TG Alc 12% Domaine d’Ici Là, La Croisette, Roussette du Bugey, France 2022 £36 Modal Wines I love the aromas…

Henri Jayer wines dazzle in Hong Kong AChristie’s auction of wines from collector Joseph Lau in Hong Kong has served as a fresh reminder of the enduring appeal of Henri Jayer Burgundy wines. Several lots of Henri Jayer wines soared above high estimates at the Christie’s auction in late May. It’s nearly two decades since Jayer passed away, aged 84, but his legacy continues to excite bidders. Among the top-selling lots was a 10-bottle collection of Henri Jayer, Cros Parantoux 1999 (pictured), which sold for an impressive HK$3.25m (£310,000), more than double its high estimate (HK$1.4m). Six bottles of Cros Parantoux 1993 fetched HK$2.5m (high e: HK$650,000). This second lot came in the original wooden case and was acquired by Lau at a Christie’s sale of ‘the private cellar of…

Sainte-Victoire victorious in Provence Wine lovers visiting Provence this summer can get a sneak preview of the region’s first ‘cru’, after the Sainte-Victoire area received backing from officials. Sainte-Victoire’s cru status for red and rosé wines was backed by France’s national appellation body INAO, earlier this year. Producers were still awaiting ministerial sign-off in June, but this was anticipated within days or weeks, said Jean-Jacques Balikian, director of Association des Vignerons de la Sainte-Victoire. This western enclave of the Provence region already appears on labels as a dénomination géographique complémentaire (DGC) attached to the Côtes de Provence appellation. There are four other DGCs: La Londe, Fréjus, Pierrefeu and Notre-Dame des Anges. Elizabeth Gabay MW, reporting on Sainte-Victoire, wrote for Decanter.com: ‘Although in theory this might be seen as just a…

While there are many ways to judge wine – depth, balance, structure, expression of terroir – the most important factor is bottle size. After all, at a dinner party, what’s the ratio of people admiring your Henri Jayer to people annoyed by how you keep talking about Henri Jayer? Meanwhile, you show up to that dinner with a 3-litre of anything and you are Dionysus, delivering a wine that they cannot imagine how you procured. You know that sad feeling at a restaurant when they put a single candle in a regular-sized dessert for someone’s birthday? That’s what your 75cl is like. A giant-ass bottle of wine signals abundance. It screams ‘party’. When Jesus turned water into wine for that wedding, do you think it was one bottle? He abracadabra’ed…

Covering the austral section of South America, spanning the southernmost areas of Chile and Argentina, Patagonia is a region of extreme, diverse landscapes. Strong winds and wide diurnal temperature ranges make it a challenging yet appealing place for viticulture – it’s certainly not for the faint of heart. The region’s breathtaking terroirs yield both singular expressions of the countries’ more popular grapes and unlikely South American iterations of varieties mostly associated with classic cold-climate regions. Without the sheltering effect of the Andes mountains, strong winds blow unhindered. Meanwhile, high latitudes expose the vines to intense UV radiation throughout the growing season’s long days. These conditions tease grapes into producing thicker skins while developing diverse aromatic compounds, and the bitterly cold nights help to preserve acidity. Put it all together and…

As climate change intensifies, its impact on vineyards around the world is doing the same. High temperatures are altering the timing of events such as bud burst and grape maturity, while also having an impact on grape chemistry. Changing weather patterns are affecting water availability and the frequency of devastating hailstorms. Meanwhile, the effect on vineyard ecosystems is also becoming increasingly evident, as rising temperatures and increasingly frequent extreme weather events are causing species of bird, insect and mammal to move in unpredictable and unprecedented ways. Worldwide, wine-growers are noticing shifts in the wildlife that inhabits or visits their vineyards. Creatures that once kept their distance or followed predictable migration patterns are now showing up at unusual times or in greater numbers, often with costly consequences. Insect pests in particular…

It was an exciting start to the year for American whiskey. For the first time in 52 years, the category gained a new official style: American single malt. On 18 December 2024, the US Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau approved the official classification, effective from 15 January 2025. Now, anything called American single malt must adhere to certain production methods. These include: being made from 100% malted barley; distilled at a single distillery; mashed, distilled and matured in the US; matured in casks not exceeding 700L; distilled to no more than 80% abv; and bottled at 40% abv. Interestingly, the rules eschew minimum age statements, as well as any specifications on still or cask type – meaning more flavour opportunities. This isn’t to say that American single malt…

Numerous recent tastings have demonstrated very clearly, to my mind, that the quality of UK sparkling wine is well and truly in the ascendant. This line-up was no exception. As Simon Field MW stated afterwards, it was ‘a fascinating and successful tasting’. In terms of style, as Rebecca Palmer said, ‘blanc de blancs was a real standout’. This was also true of Chardonnay-dominant blends – something that came as no surprise given the quality of Chardonnay that the UK has in recent years proved itself capable of producing. The high-scoring rosés were also impressively characterful and expressive, reinforcing my belief that this is another style that UK producers are increasingly mastering. The bulk of the wines came from the 2018 and 2019 vintages, closely followed by 2020 and 2021. In…

Sainsbury’s, Taste the Difference Crémant de Loire Brut, France NV £12 Sainsbury’s Traditional-method French crémants are a great budget alternative to Champagne, as this blend of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay proves. Aromas of almond biscuits and fresh citrus; a delicate palate with light, lifted citrus and lemon zest notes, and hints of marzipan. JS Alcohol 12.5% Vilarnau, Cava Demi-Sec, Penedès, Spain NV £12.75-£14.95 Cellar Door Wines, Ocado Juicy and fragrant, this would be an ideal match for spicy food – or birthday cake! Peach, apple and lemon citrus, with honeysuckle florality and enough acidity to keep it fresh and vibrant. A great-value fizz, ideal for summer sipping. AW Alc 11.5% Morrisons, The Best Alsace Gewürztraminer, France 2023 £11.50 Morrisons Great varietal typicity on the nose, with Turkish delight, rosewater and…

There’s something fascinating about volcanic wines – those grown in soils shaped by lava, ash and ancient eruptions. These soils are not only rich in minerals but also force vines to dig deep, resulting in grapes of rare intensity and resilience. From the rugged slopes of Mt Etna in Sicily to the sun-bleached terraces of Santorini and the windswept islands of the Canaries, volcanic terroirs can create wines that possess a distinct energy: crisp, mineral-driven and deeply expressive. Prized for their purity and texture, volcanic wines have long captivated winemakers and wine lovers alike. But it’s their combination of unforced complexity and food-friendly freshness that makes them especially appealing for summer. As this first selection of results from the Decanter World Wine Awards 2025 reveals, volcanic whites have put in…

Celeb watch Carla Bruni Who and what? Her husband, former French Prime Minister Nicolas Sarkozy, may not drink, but that hasn’t stopped Carla Bruni entering the wine world. The singer, model and former first lady of France co-owns the 300ha Château d’Estoublon in Provence with Sarkozy, Château Lafite’s former director Jean-Guillaume Prats and entrepreneur Stéphane Courbit. With the estate’s roots stretching back to 1489, rosé is in its blood, which is perhaps why, when the château’s new flagship bottling was launched in 2020, Bruni chose to name it Roseblood. Is it any good? Made by Bruni with a little help from technical director Victor Joyeux of Cloudy Bay fame, the 2024 vintage of this salmon-pink rosé is a sprightly blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Rolle and Semillon that’s aged for…