Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2017 i Decanter

In brief English artist David Hockney has illustrated the label for Château Mouton Rothschild 2014, becoming the fifth Briton to do so. A friend of Mouton owner Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, Hockney included the words ‘In tribute to Philippine’ above an image of two wine glasses. A new ‘smart stopper’ claims to help keep an open bottle of wine fresh for months by removing the oxygen from the air in the bottle. Repour, designed by US chemist Tom Lutz, claims Its ‘oxygen-absorbing material’ brings the level of oxygen in the bottle to below 0.05%. Philippe Bascaules is Château Margaux’s new managing director, succeeding Paul Pontallier following his death earlier this year. Bascaules was previously estate director at the first growth, but left to run Francis Ford Coppola’s Inglenook Winery in…

Andrew Jefford ‘What if it’s profundity rather than purity we should be looking for?’ SO WHERE DO we go from here? As the red winemakers of the world prepare to take their Christmas pause, gazing into the dancing flames of an open fire in the Northern Hemisphere or into the glowing embers of a barbecue in the South, they might well be wondering ‘What next?’. Temperature control and the complete understanding of both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation came first, ushering us into the modern wine world. Hygiene was another vital lesson. The relationship with new oak barrels went as far as it could: all are now in retreat. The concentrator, we realised, only had value when faced with catastrophe. Reduced yields and the search for ripeness was a step forward…

DECANTER PROMOTION Gerardo Cesari 80 Years of Amarone Special edition Bosan Amarone to celebrate Cesari’s 80th Birthday History began for one of the pioneering companies of Valpolicella when Gerardo Cesari founded his winery in 1936. Its growth from a family enterprise to a modern corporate reality with 120 hectares of vineyards under management and a reputation for top quality wines has mirrored the growing popularity of the Veneto’s flagship wine, Amarone della Valpolicella. Back in the early Seventies, Cesari Amarone was one of the first to reach all five continents thanks to the capabilities and enthusiasm of Gerardo Cesari’s son, Franco. Franco travelled widely and took his Amarone to the principal markets of the world – USA, Canada, UK and Germany - in person. He knew the importance of personal…

Château Batailley – a timeline Late 18th century Owned by the St-Martin Family 1816 Acquired by Daniel Guestier of Barton & Guestier. He died in 1847 but his children managed it until 1866 1866-1932 Owned by Constant Halphen, a Parisian banker 1932 Purchased by the Borie brothers, Marcel and Francis 1942 Division into two properties. Francis Borie kept the smaller part, which became known as Haut-Batailley. The larger part, owned by Marcel (Philippe Castéja’s grandfather), retained the original name 1961 Following the death of Marcel Borie, the property transferred to his daughter Denise and her husband Emile Castéja, Philippe’s father 2001 Philippe Castéja takes over the property and the family-owned Borie-Manoux négociant house, through which Batailley is sold 2006 Cellar space revamped to allow for parcel-by-parcel vinification 2015 Official launch…

Cabernet’s Cape crusade It is uncertain when Cabernet Sauvignon was introduced to the Cape although the variety is known to have been grown with some seriousness at Groot Constantia in the last decades of the 19th century. During the first half of the 20th century it began to gain prestige, even though it is largely a matter of speculation how much of the variety that wines labelled as Cabernet Sauvignon actually contained (prior to the Wine of Origin legislation of 1973, controls over varietal naming were very loose). Plantings remained limited for a long while; in 1990, the variety still constituted less than 4% of the national vineyard. But post-Apartheid things changed dramatically and by 2005 (the peak of plantings) it made up 13.4%. While plantings have dropped significantly over…

SWITZERLAND Buyer’s guide to Swiss wine An enigma to many, this Alpine nation at the heart of Europe produces some excitingly diverse quality wines, though many never make it beyond its borders. Sue Style takes us on a tour, and recommends 12 to try Photograph: blickwinkel/Alamy Stock Photo ‘In a high-cost country, the only game in town was quality’ WHEN I STARTED exploring and writing about Swiss wines 30 years ago, few people had heard of them beyond the borders of this tiny, mountainous, landlocked country. Even today when I sing their praises – which I do at every available opportunity – I still get more than a few raised eyebrows. Many people are unaware that wines are produced here. Others have heard of them, and maybe even unearthed a…

Britain’s beacons of hope Photograph: Kate Lenart of Gastronomic Agency Chains Brasserie Blanc  www.brasserieblanc.com Now 18 branches, and a list that’s more carefully chosen than at many chains. Hotel du Vin Bistros  www.hotelduvin.com Local buying decisions are allowed, sommeliers even buying wine at auction. Carluccios  www.carluccios.com Some less-obvious Italian choices, and you can buy from the shop to drink with your meal. Gaucho  www.gauchorestaurants.com The prices are a little steep, but it has a serious and unrivalled selection of Argentinian wines. Loch Fyne Seafood and Grill  www.lochfyneseafoodandgrill.co.uk Focused on whites to suit the mainly fishy cuisine; a well-composed list. Local heroes La Trompette & Chez Bruce, London  www.latrompette.co.uk, www.chezbruce.co.uk Under the same ownership. Exceptional lists with lots by the glass, and some prices cheaper than retail. The 10 Cases, London…

Spurrier’s World Decanter’s globetrotting consultant editor gives us a round-up of recent tastings, his views on current issues in the wine world and top bottles to drink or keep ‘The younger vintages were all superb and will be sought after by collectors’ Back to school I’ve always thought of September as the start of the wine year, as it is the month of most European harvests as well as getting back to wine tastings after a long summer break. This year was no exception, for no sooner was I back from holiday, I was off early the next morning to judge wines for Dorset’s Melplash Agricultural Show. These turned out not to be from the juice of the grape, but from every imaginable fruit, flower, vegetable or herb. There were…

For the cellar Fine Tuscan reds In anticipation of the 300th anniversary of the creation in 1716 of the four historic regions of Chianti (Chianti Classico, Chianti Rùfina, Carmignano and Val d’Arno di Sopra), David Gleave MW of Liberty Wines held a tasting in Florence to show that Tuscany has become, for him, ‘one of the world’s most dynamic wine regions’. Here is one wine from each producer of Liberty’s I enjoyed: Alberto Antonini’s organic 50ha Poggiotondo estate was new to me, and his elegant Vigna delle Conchiglie, Chianti Riserva 2013 (£50) will reach 2023 with ease. Federico Giuntini Masseti of Selvapiana in Chianti Rùfina showed his Villa di Petrognano 2012 (60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot) from the new DOC Pomino (£18) to great acclaim, and 20% Cabernet…

The judges Sarah Ahmed Ahmed is a London-based wine writer, educator and judge She was the top student in her WSET Diploma graduating class of 2003 and was shortlisted for the International Wine & Spirit Competition Communicator of the Year in 2009 and 2010. Ahmed publishes Thewinedetective.co.uk where she specialises in the wines of Australia and Portugal. Justin Knock MW Australian-born Knock has lived in London for more than 10 years and has judged Australian wines at the DWWA since 2010. He is a co-owner of fine wine retailer Philglas & Swiggot and runs The Purple Hand freelance wine consultancy. He has made wine in Australia, France and Spain. Anthony Rose Rose is DWWA Regional co-Chair for Australia and wine correspondent for Independent.co.uk and i newspapers. He teaches the Leiths…

MARGARET RIVER CABERNET Recommended 86–89pts Commended 83-85pts • Fermoy Estate 2014 85, 14%, 2017-2020, N/A UK www.fermoy.com.au • Flametree, Embers Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 85, 14%, 2017-2019, £14 Amps Fine Wines, Butler’s Wine Cellar, Corks Out, Hennings, Mr & Mrs Fine Wine, Noel Young, Old Chapel Cellars, Prohibition, Quaff, Reserve Wines, Salut, Sheldon’s Wine, The Sampler, The Secret Cellar, Woodwinters • Passel Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Wallcliffe 2015 85, 14%, 2017-2019, N/A UK www.passelestate.com • Stella Bella, Suckfizzle 2012 85, 13.5%, 2017-2020, £30 Fine Wine Co • Thompson Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Wilyabrup 2013 85, 14%, 2017-2019, £9.50 Wineman • Voyager Estate, Tom Price, Wallcliffe 2012 85, 13.5%, 2017-2024, N/A UK www.voyagerestate.com.au • Cape Mentelle, Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 84, 14%, 2017-2019, £17 Moët Hennessy UK, Woodwinters • Cape Naturaliste Vineyard,…

My top three Anthony Rose • Amelia Park, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 A stylish Cabernet from Wilyabrup with subtle French vanilla oak underpinning a crème de cassis and chocolatey opulence tinged with herbal notes in a fine-textured framework of fruit that reminds me of a good Margaux. 94 Drink 2017-2018 • Clairault, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Wilyabrup 2012 From the original 4ha planted in 1976, this is classic old-vine Margaret River Cab, with cedar oak sitting over elegant cassis fruit tinged with minty undertones of eucalypt in a seamless package of subtle oak and fresh fruit. 94 Drink 2017-2023 • Flying Fish Cove, Wildberry Estate Cabernet, Wilyabrup 2014 This shows the quality of its sub-region with ample fleshy cassis and mulberry moderated by the polished undertones of cedary oak and an…

RIBERA DEL DUERO Highly Recommended 90–94pts Arzuaga, Gran Reserva 2004 Decanter average score: 94/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW 93 Sarah Jane Evans MW 93 Pierre Mansour 95 £89.99 OW Loeb, Selfridges Sophisticated leather and tobacco nose. Silky, sweet, deliciously integrated and mature yet it retains its vigour and life. Distinctive on the palate with great class. Everything a gran reserva should be. It’s a traditional, retro style. Drink 2017-2022 Alcohol 14% Alberto y Benito, Briego Fiel 2009 91 PBT 92 SJE 90 PM 90 N/A UK www.bodegasbriego.com Lifted, toasty oak nose which carries onto the mid-palate, joined by rich fruits, raspberries and cherries coming through. The light rasp of tannin and savoury, spicy finish make this an excellent food wine. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 14% Dominio Basconcillos,…

My top three Sarah Jane Evans MW • Arzuaga, Gran Reserva 2004 A traditional treat. If there was one wine in this tasting made for the lover of classical Spanish gran reservas, then this was it. Ripe cherry fruits overlaid with very fine oak and a lively prickle of freshness running through. 93 Drink 2017-2022 • Negón 2012 A discovery! A winery new to me, and one that is working biodynamically. This is a serious wine, and could simply have had all the density of Ribera del Duero. But it blossoms impressively, revealing juicy ripe fruit and finely textured tannins. Long, memorable finish. 93 Drink 2019-2031 • Garmón 2014 Young, and full of power. Not in the least discreet, still showing plenty of oak, but already with complex notes of…

ROSE CHAMPAGNE Outstanding 95–97pts Charles Heidsieck, Rosé Réserve, Brut NV Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Michael Edwards 95 Simon Field MW 95 Xavier Rousset MS 95 £41.65-£58 Carruthers & Kent, Drinkmonger, Fortnum & Mason, Harrods, Haynes Hanson & Clark, Hedonism, Laithwaites, Millésima, Tivoli, The Finest Bubble, Winetrust, WoodWinters Founded in 1851 by the Champagne Charlie of legend, he sailed to the USA to seek his fortune. Jailed during the civil war he returned home chastened but did find markets in the Americas. The house’s eminence owes all to three great winemakers – Daniel Thibault and Thierry Roset who both died young, and now Cyril Brun. Rosé Réserve symbolises Charles Heidsieck’s magic, opulence and finesse. Made from Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, with 20% reserve wine. Michael Edwards…

My top three Michael Edwards • Charles Heidsieck, Rosé Réserve NV Lovely aromas of citrus fruits and lemon rind, then toast and honey. Poised opulent Pinot Noir rules the palate. This is a superb gastronomic wine for roast lobster. 95 Drink 2017-2020 • De Castelnau, Brut NV Ripe, nicely evolved nose of wild cherry and Mirabelle plum, melding into a multi-toned honeyed bouquet. Complex, lingering flavours from four years on its lees. Great value. 90 Drink 2017-2021 • Perrier-Jouët, Belle Epoque, Brut 2006 Very honest and pure. An intriguing nose of waxy church pews and a whiff of Provençale herbs, then that classic, soothing Perrier-Jouët texture on the palate – everything in balance and impressive to the very long finish. Potential to cellar another decade or so. 88 Drink 2017-2025…

ROSE CHAMPAGNE Expert summary: Michael Edwards Overall high standards from a tasting that highlighted the lighter style of rosé that has emerged over the past 20 years. But be wary of recent vintage variation ‘Rosé Champagne has come of age. It is very much ‘in’, as much for perfectionist winemakers as for discerning consumers’ THIS EXTENSIVE TASTING of 99 rosé Champagnes was positive in the sense that the wines today are much higher in quality than they were 20 years ago. What this tasting vividly showed was that rosé Champagne has come of age. It is very much ‘in’, as much for perfectionist winemakers as for discerning consumers looking for what rosé Champagne is capable of today – every bit as much as great white Champagne. The rosés were generally…

Quinsou Paris Reviewed by Fiona Beckett The secret of any successful neighbourhood restaurant is for diners to feel cosseted and cosy. In which case, lucky residents of the 6th arrondissement in Paris to have Quinsou on their doorstep. There’s more to the restaurant than the term neighbourhood might imply. Chef Antonin Bonnet has an impeccable pedigree, having worked for six years at the Greenhouse in London’s Mayfair then in Paris at Le Sergent Recruteur. Now he’s finally opened his own place in this modest corner of the Left Bank. When we ate, the room was full of happy locals, some of whom we gathered were fellow local chefs. Bonnet’s basic menu hits the spot. The amuse, a star in itself, set the tone: an exquisite tomato salad of incredible sweetness…

Grape varieties with Julia Harding MW Kisi Unlike Rkatsiteli, the cold-hardy, productive, light-skinned Georgian variety that in Soviet times was the third-most planted white in the world but now ranks 16th (according to Kym Anderson, Which Winegrape Varieties are Grown Where?, University of Adelaide Press 2013, p59), Kisi is a minnow – even in its southeast Georgian homeland of Kakheti. Ranked 830th in the world in 2010, with just 26ha planted, up from 20ha in 2000 (Anderson, p50), it is thin-skinned and much more sensitive to the climate than Rkatsiteli. Kisi produces both fresh, dry wines that are lightly floral with flavours of dried apples and pears, as well as more complex examples that are fermented and left on skins for up to six months in traditional clay qvevri. The…

John Stimpfig ‘The stress comes from calibrating what to pour for whom’ LIKE MOST OENOPHILES, I love to plan which wines I am going to serve for a dinner party and the dishes I will pair them with. But what about the vexed question of matching wine and people? I suspect this social conundrum occurs more often than we care to admit. And possibly no more so than at this festive time of year, when we stress and delight in planning which of our best bottles to fetch up from the cellar. In my experience, the delight comes from the anticipation of opening such treasures for set-piece feasts. In contrast, the stress usually comes from calibrating what to pour for whom. I recall interviewing Michael Broadbent about this for the…

Jane Anson ‘The 2009 vintage really brought the concerns home to Pierre Lurton’ IT CAN’T BE easy committing to a stylistic change in an already successful wine. Cheval des Andes has long been seen as one of Argentina’s stars; a joint project started in 1999 between two LVMH estates: Cheval Blanc in Bordeaux and Terrazas de Los Andes in Argentina. Known for its stunning location in the Andes foothills, its polo field and its award-winning Malbec and Cabernet blends, it has a reputation as a ‘New World grand cru’. I last visited Cheval des Andes in 1996 on a trip around Mendoza’s vineyards, and it stood out both for its polished flavours and high hopes of becoming one of those prestigious international partnerships in the mould of California’s Opus One.…

The most exciting wines of 2016 Decanter experts around the world named the five bottles under £55 that impressed them most this year. After tasting and rating the 195 nominated wines, and assessing them on harmony, complexity and wow factor, our three judges compiled the ultimate top 75 across all styles. Christelle Guibert reports THIS YEAR, INSTEAD of simply pulling together the top-scoring wines from our 2016 panel tastings, features and supplements, we have cast our net wider, by asking our in-house team, regular contributors and Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chairs which five bottles, under £55, they enjoyed most over the past 12 months. Our experts provided a brilliant selection that showed real diversity, both geographically and stylistically. While classic regions were represented, we also had wines from Cyprus,…

Six names to look out for Domaine JL Chave With holdings of 14ha, JL Chave is the largest family-owned grower-producer in Hermitage. Jean-Louis Chave makes still reds and whites plus sweet whites, and a sought-after alternative red blend called Cuvée Cathelin in certain vintages. As the custodian of such an ancient and revered domaine, he is remarkably down-to-earth, and more concerned with taking care of his estate than globe-trotting. ‘I don’t want to be a brand,’ he explains. ‘I want people to be interested in Hermitage – not Chave.’ His wines are timeless, authentic and complete expressions of this great northern Rhône terroir. M Chapoutier When a young Michel Chapoutier took over the family business in 1990, it was in the doldrums. He quickly turned it around and now this…

A taste of Batailley Château Batailley, Pauillac 2010 94 £38.50-£55.50 Christopher Piper, Eton Vintners, James Nicholson, L’Assemblage, Lay & Wheeler, Le Vigneron, Rollings Wine Co, Top Selection Needs a few more years to hit its early drinking window; it’s closed now and feels almost like a barrel sample. Over a few hours, though, its enveloping palate displays the freshness of 2014, but with greater depth as cassis and dark and red berry fruits lead to a long and lifting finish. A wine with a potentially higher score. Drink 2020-2045 Alc 13.5% Château Batailley, Pauillac 2015 93 £29.50-£39 (ib) Averys, Bon Coeur, Christopher Keiller, Goedhuis & Co, Haynes Hanson & Clark, Laithwaite’s, L’Assemblage, Millésima, Top Selection, Uncorked Tasted from barrel in April 2016, this exudes a deep perfume of violets, while…

Eedes’ 12 Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignons to try Delaire Graff, Reserve 2013 93 £25-£30 Armit Wines, Hard to Find Wines A classic nose of red and black fruit, fresh herbs, violets and graphite. Medium bodied yet full flavoured, with striking fruit purity, balance and length. A precise and very attractive wine. Drink 2017-2030 Alc 14.5% Rust en Vrede, Single Vineyard 2013 93 £74.95 Seckford Agencies Cassis, leafiness as well as prominent but attractive oak, including notes of pencil shavings, cigar box and spice. Big but balanced with a good core of fruit, citrus acidity and smooth textured in the best sense. Very true to Stellenbosch. Drink 2017-2030 Alc 15.2% Spier, 21 Gables 2013 93 £22.99 Laithwaite’s Black cherry and cassis, oyster shell, vanilla and toast. Full bodied and opulent with concentrated…

Switzerland’s six wine regions Valais (33% of total wine volume produced) In the heart of the Alps, with vineyards extending over 100km along the Rhône river Vaud (25%) Predominantly along the shores of Lake Geneva, with some vineyards at the southwestern end of Lake Neuchâtel German-speaking region (19%) Widely scattered across 17 German-speaking cantons from Basel and Aargau in the northwest via Zurich, Schaafhausen and Thurgau, to St Gallen and Graubünden in the east Geneva (10%) In the foothills of the sub-Alpine Jura mountains and both banks of the Rhône as it leaves the western end of Lake Geneva Ticino (7%) On the southern side of the Alps close to the Italian border, with abundant sunshine tempered by lake-effect rain from its proximity to Lakes Lugano and Maggiore Three Lakes…

Style’s selection: Swiss wines to seek out Jean-René Germanier, Petite Arvine, Valais 2015 90 £30 Alpine Wines, L’Assemblage Classic Petite Arvine from Germanier’s dramatic clay-schist moraine vineyards around Vétroz in central Valais. Grapefruit aromas and a rich, intense but fully dry palate with Arvine’s typical saline finish. My desert-island Swiss white. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13% Brivio, Bianco Rovere, Ticino 2014 89 £34.10-£36 Alpine Wines, Hedonism Alongside his stunning range of Merlots and Bordeaux-inspired red blends, Brivio and its winemaker Alfred de Martin make this distinguished white, elegantly oaked in 70% new barriques and boasting toasty, smoky, curried hints. Characterful and full-bodied, calling for Mediterranean-style chargrilled fish and vegetables. Drink 2017-2027 Alc 14% Cru de l’Hôpital, Traminer, Vully, Three Lakes 2015 89 N/A UK www.cru-hopital.ch Precise, elegant, dry Gewurztraminer – a…

The Decanter guarantee Our buying guide is here to provide you with trusted, independent, expert recommendations on what to buy, what to drink and what to cellar. Each panel tasting is judged by three experienced tasters chosen for their authority in the category of wine being rated. All wines are tasted blind and are pre-poured for judges in flights of eight to 10 wines. Our three experts taste and score their set of wines individually but then discuss their scores together at the end of each flight. Any wines on which scores are markedly different are retasted; however, judges are under no obligation to amend their scores. Judges are encouraged to look for typicity in wines, rewarding those which are true to their region. Prices are…

Steven recommends... Moët & Chandon, Grand Vintage Rosé, Champagne, France 2008 90 £45-£59 Harrods, Hedonism, Jeroboams, L’Assemblage, Millésima Described by chef de cave Benoît Gouez as ‘fresh, uncompromising, with a linear focus’, this full-coloured, low 5g/l dosage rosé shows really good red summer fruits and a satisfyingly lifted finish. Drink 2017-2028 Alc 12.5% Hancock & Hancock, Fiano, McLaren Vale, South Australia 2016 89 £13 widely available via UK agent Hatch Mansfield Italian varieties are starting to make an impression in Australia, and who better than Chris Hancock to have turned his hand to Fiano, producing a delightful, floral-fruity wine with summer charm. Drink 2017-2018 Alc 12% Domaine Malmont, Côtes du Rhône-Villages Blanc, Séguret, France 2015 91 £19.50 Stannary St Wine Co 100% Roussanne grapes planted on poor, rocky, high-terraced vineyards…

PANEL TASTING Margaret River Cabernet With climate and soils similar to Bordeaux, it’s unsurprising these Western Australian Cabs share the refined tannins and classic lines of the Médoc, says Anthony Rose Map: Maggie Nelson DRAWN TO A more leisurely way of life in the late 1960s as an antidote to the hurly-burly of their professional practices, it was mainly doctors who heeded the pioneering advice of Dr John Gladstones and discovered that, with its maritime climate and gravelly sandy loams, Margaret River held the key to making fine wine. As the earliest pioneers (Vasse Felix, Moss Wood, Evans & Tate, Cape Mentelle and Cullen) discovered, not only could they make quality wine with red and white Bordeaux varieties, but in an altogether different style from anything that had gone before…

MARGARET RIVER CABERNET Outstanding 95–97pts Clairault, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Wilyabrup 2012 Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Sarah Ahmed 94 Justin Knock MW 97 Anthony Rose 94 N/A UK www.clairaultstreickerwines.com.au 2012 was a showstopper of a vintage for Margaret River Cabernet and it shows in this wine. The grapes were hand-harvested from the oldest vines on the Clairault Vineyard (planted in 1976) and fermented on skins for 10 days before pressing by winemaker Bruce Dukes. The wine was matured in both new and used French oak for 10 months for textured finesse and subtle rather than overt cedary aromas. The Clairault property comprises several vineyards with one of the highest grades of biodiversity in the Wilyabrup area. Sarah Ahmed Sweet ripe raspberry and cassis aromas with a flash of…

My top three Sarah Ahmed • Xanadu, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 A seamless marriage of two vineyards and three varieties (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec), my top scorer highlights the blender’s skill. Xanadu is Wallcliffe-based, but the tannins showcase Wilyabrup and Treeton. 97 Drink 2017-2020 • Woodlands, Thomas’, Wilyabrup 2012 In 1973, the Watson family planted one of Margaret River’s first vineyards in Wilyabrup. Stuart Watson’s love of savoury Bordeaux and classy French oak shine through in this structured, powerful, brooding red. 92 Drink 2017-2021 • Cloudburst, Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 New Yorker Will Berliner’s inaugural 2010 Cabernet won Best Red at the 2013 Margaret River Show. He planted his biodynamic vineyard in 2004, and this wine has 7% Malbec. 90 Drink 2017-2019…

MARGARET RIVER CABERNET Expert summary: Anthony Rose While Wilyabrup was a standout among the unofficial sub-regions, and 69% of wines were Recommended or more, the high expectations of this lauded region weren’t met ‘The sub-regions of Wilyabrup, Yallingup and Wallcliffe demonstrated their superiority’ WHILE TASTING RESULTS tend to speak for themselves, they may need interpretation when high expectations are not always fulfilled. Expectations of Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon were high because this Western Australian enclave has quickly established itself as arguably Australia’s premier wine region for the variety. With its cassis, sometimes minty notes and fine-grained tannins, the region’s Cabernet Sauvignon is possibly even closer to Bordeaux and parts of Napa Valley than South Australia’s Coonawarra, Barossa Valley and Clare Valley or Yarra Valley in Victoria. The unofficial sub-regions of…

PANEL TASTING The results Heavy tannins and the lack of acidity, plus ever-present issues over oak, marred what was otherwise a solid tasting of ‘good-quality’ wines. Christelle Guibert reports THE EXPECTATION WAS, in this tasting across many vintages of Spain’s second most famous wine, that there should have been some real stars. There weren’t, but the positive news for consumers is that 74% of wines were Recommended or more. Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW said: ‘I’m not disappointed by the result at all, as Ribera does not have the potential of producing a high quantity of high-quality wines. There is, however, as we have seen here, a lot of potential for some good-quality wines.’ This is a bold statement, but one shared by his fellow judges. ‘In 10 or 15 years’…

My top three Pierre Mansour • Arzuaga, Gran Reserva 2004 This wonderful, mature gran reserva from Ribera’s superb 2004 vintage stood out. Sophisticated and perfumed, with hints of leather and tobacco, this is deliciously integrated and mature yet retains vigour and life. A classic, retro style which will bring smiles to those lucky enough to enjoy it. 95 Drink 2017-2022 • Diodoro, Autor 2009 From a small property owned by the Pascual family who own about 35ha of Tinto Fino, some vineyards 100 years-old. Round, fleshy and smooth with attractive notes of vanilla and spice from ageing in new oak. 92 Drink 2017-2021 • Protos, Finca el Grajo Viejo 2014 Protos is an early pioneer in the region, originally called Ribera del Duero until the consejo decided to use it…

PANEL TASTING The results This tasting of vintage and non-vintage rosé fizz was enjoyed by all our tasters, who were particularly taken with the paler-hued wines. Amy Wislocki reports ‘OF THESE 99 rosé Champagnes, I would drink with pleasure all but nine or 10 of them,’ declared Xavier Rousset MS. ‘A very enjoyable tasting,’ agreed Simon Field MW – ‘both the aperitif style and the gastronomic style were in evidence, and succeeded well generally. I look for energy and vivacity in rosé Champagne, and I don’t want a confected style. Very few of these were confected, partly as there is more natural ripeness at harvest time these days, so there is less need for dosage. There’s also less need to adjust with too much red wine – the fruit can…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts De Venoge, Louis XV Brut 2006 94 ME 95 SF 95 XR 93 £151.88 Zonin UK Amber colours belie a youthful vanilla nose that is indulgent with lovely poise and acidity. Oak is present and well handled. The elegant palate defies the years and instead installs complexity and a rigorously crafted structure. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 12% Louis Brochet, Brut NV 91 ME 90 SF 93 XR 90 £28.99 Handford A nose of orchard fruit, verbena and raspberry coulis with a pleasant creaminess. This has been well made and finely judged with excellent balancing acidity, mid-palate authority and plenty of impressive length. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 12% Charles Lafitte, Grand Cuvée Rosé, Brut NV 92 ME 90 SF 92 XR 93 £47.99 Ocado This is expressing citrus aromas supported…

My top three Simon Field MW • Charles Heidsieck, Rosé Reserve, NV Everything is perfectly balanced, from the equal blend of the three varieties to the poised tension between the energy of youth and the honeyed maturity bestowed by generous ageing and a healthy percentage of reserve wine. 95 Drink 2017-2020 • De Venoge, Louis XV, Brut 2006 One of the oldest yet most discreet of the Epernay grande marques. Here, the marriage of indulgence and restraint was very effective, the oak worn with great dignity and the red-fruit character beautifully refined. 95 Drink 2017-2025 • Louis Brochet, Brut NV One to watch. Brochet is in the Montagne de Reims and its wines, unsurprisingly, are mainly Pinot Noir. The red fruit purity and stylish vinosity impressed, neither masking the exuberant…

34 UNDER £35 34 festive wines With even more recommendations this month and a higher price limit for the special occasion, Decanter’s tastings director Christelle Guibert has picked out 34 exciting wines to try over the festive season. All are UK-available and perfect for drinking now * denotes supermarket and high-street wines Cloudy Bay, Pelorus, Marlborough, New Zealand NV 90 £20 Morrisons * This sparkler from Cloudy Bay (responsible for putting Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc on the map) is predominantly Chardonnay with some Pinot Noir. The nose opens up to crisp apple and lime notes that linger on the palate. Two years on lees adds weight and texture with a nice bready note. Alc 12.5% De Telmont, Grande Réserve Brut, Champagne, France NV 90 £19.99 Majestic * From one of the…

Tasting notes decoded Oxidative An oxidative style of winemaking is a controlled process of exposing the wine to oxygen. It enhances flavours deemed desirable – such as nuts or dried fruits – and increases complexity in the wine. The opposing method is a reductive style of winemaking where the amount of oxygen exposure is limited to preserve the wine’s fresh fruit characters. Most wines lie between these two styles, achieving a good balance, but some winemakers prefer a more marked oxidative or reductive style. (Tasting note from p109.)…

In brief Blandy’s latest Madeira releases A number of new releases have been made from Blandy’s cellars in Madeira, spanning more than a century (See ‘Collector’s Corner’, below). They include a 2003 Colheita Bual (£46.03/500ml), a 1980 Terrantez (£193.33/750ml), a 1920 Bual (£730/750ml) and an 1887 Verdelho (£1,405/750ml). Some are available in the newly approved magnum and double-magnum large formats. Masseto’s 2013 ‘superstar’ Cult Italian wine Masseto’s 2013 vintage has been labelled as ‘gorgeous’ and ‘shaping up to be a superstar’ by leading critics – despite an uneven growing season and one of the latest harvests in its history. The fresh weather is said to have benefited Merlot in particular, boosting polyphenol levels and aromatic development. Masseto 2013 is about £333 a bottle, similar to recent vintages.…

Hammer highlights • Christie’s, London, 20 October: 11 bottles of Latour 1945 sold for £35,250 (high estimate: £25,000); 12 bottles of Cheval Blanc 1948 sold for £16,450 (high e: £7,000); six bottles of Mouton Rothschild 1949 sold for £11,750 (high e: £9,000); 10 bottles of Cheval Blanc 1959 sold for £11,750 (high e: £5,500); six bottles of Comte Georges de Vogüé, Musigny 1966 sold for £10,575 (high e: £1,800); 12 bottles of Petrus 1980 sold for £12,925 (high e: £12,000); nine bottles of Latour 1982 sold for £12,925 (high e: £9,000); three bottles of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC), La Tâche 1985 sold for £11,162 (high e: £4,500). • Hart Davis Hart, Chicago, 4-5 November: six magnums of Lafleur 1982 sold for $59,750 (high e: $60,000); six bottles of Petrus…

Wine Legends Château Montrose 1990 St-Estèphe, Bordeaux A legend because… Montrose was long renowned for its impressive but austere and tannic wines that needed years of cellaring. Then in 1989 and 1990 it produced a pair of wines that established it as the finest property in St-Estèphe, with Cos d’Estournel its closest rival. Connoisseurs still discuss the relative merits of the two vintages, though the consensus is that the 1990 is, marginally, the finer of the two. Looking back Jean-Louis Charmolüe, whose ancestors had bought the estate in 1896, was the owner in 1990, and although he always maintained the very traditional style of Montrose, he was aware that wines of such severity were becoming less acceptable to a new generation of Bordeaux drinkers. He planted more Merlot, reducing the…

Letter of the month Youth versus age I ENJOYED YOUR article on ‘Little brother’ wines (November 2016 issue). But as the third of four siblings, I was offended by the idea that little brothers are somehow inferior to big brothers. Huffing and puffing over the top of my magazine, I expressed this view to my wife – the youngest of two siblings – who, as ever, corrected me. Little brothers and sisters are free to bend and break the rules, we are ready for action sooner, we mature faster and don’t carry the responsibility on our shoulders that the eldest must. Little brothers rarely compliment big brothers even if they do complement them. We both agreed that it would be an honour to spend the evening with Prince William but…

LETTER FROM CALIFORNIA Oz Clarke ‘Many Californians know they should change, but need to be pushed’ Photograph: Cliff Hide News/Alamy Stock Photo THIS ‘BALANCE’ THING is going to run and run in California. We’ve had wine writer Jon Bonné and his book on The New California. And we’ve had sommelier Rajat Parr and Co with their ‘In Pursuit of Balance’ campaign, which was so successful it has now disbanded after its final tasting in November in San Francisco. Why this success? Because it touched a raw nerve. Many Californians know they should change, but need to be pushed into it. And these balance advocates weren’t the first ones either. Cathy Corison has been practising balance at her Napa winery for nearly 30 years. Jim Clendenen at Au Bon Climat has…

Top 25 fizz, demi-sec, sweet & fortified 1 Bodegas Rey, Fernando de Castilla, Antique Palo Cortado, Jerez, Spain NV £30-£35/500ml D Byrne & Co, Drinkmonger, Hangingditch, Harrods, Hawkshead, Highbury Vintners, Solent Cellar, Slurp, Woodwinters Deep in aromatic intensity and equally powerful in the mouth. Great combination of raisins, orange blossom and beeswax, with a very distinct nuttiness. Dry and pure on the palate with the driving energy of hazelnuts, mocha, liquorice and considerable zestiness. This is really terrific! Drink 2017-2022 Alc 20% 2 Szepsy, Szamorodni Tokaji, Tokaj, Hungary 2012 £44/500ml Hedonism, Huntsworth Wine, Selfridges, Top Selection A beautiful botrytised wine with hints of mushroom on the nose combined with orange zest, quince and marmalade. This translates through to the palate where golden peach and candied fruit are added. It is…

A dozen to try from Hermitage Paul Jaboulet Aîné, La Chapelle Blanc 2014 96 £108 (in bond) Fine & Rare 100% old-vine Marsanne from the lieu-dit Maison Blanche. Gorgeous nose of vanilla pod, mango and white chocolate. Very full and intense with a flowing texture. Long, straight and piercing with a beam of bright acidity pointing the way. Powerful yet light on its feet. Drink 2018-2040 Alcohol 13.5% Domaine Belle, Blanc 2013 94 £40 (2012) Robert Rolls 60% Marsanne, 40% Roussanne. Captivating aromas of buttery poached pear, citrus and almond. Full in body, silky and rounded; soft but not flabby. Generous new oak provides spice on the long finish. Complex already, and will improve. Drink 2017-2028 Alc 13.5% M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon 2010 99 £200(ib)-£353.33 Fine & Rare, Millésima, Seckford…

Five names to look out for Gantenbein in Malans, Graubünden Martha and Daniel Gantenbein’s handcrafted wines are among the few Swiss wines to have gained international fame. Every step is dictated by a single-minded pursuit of perfection, from the selection table in the vineyards through the architect-designed cellar to the array of oak barrels toasted by Burgundy’s best coopers. Elegant, complex, long-lived Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (plus some Riesling), produced in minute quantities and dispensed by the drop through a small network of global distributors. www.gantenbeinwine.com Marie-Therese Chappaz in Fully, Valais Chappaz is often described as la grande dame of Valais’ wine growers, with 10ha of vines planted on steep terraces braced by drystone walls and farmed along biodynamic lines. Several cuvées of Fendant (Chasselas) illustrate her belief that the…

Scoring system Tasters rate the wines using the 100-point scoring system. The overall Decanter rating is the average of all three judges’ scores. The ratings are as follows: 98-100: Exceptional A great, exceptional and profound wine 95-97: Outstanding An excellent wine of great complexity and character 90-94: Highly Recommended A very accomplished wine, with impressive complexity 86-89: Recommended A well-made, straightforward and enjoyable wine 83-85: Commended An acceptable, simple wine with limited personality 76-82: Fair Correctly made, if unexciting 70-75: Poor Unbalanced and/or bland with no character 50-69: Faulty Displays winemaking faults For the Exceptional and Outstanding Decanter ratings, judges’ individual scores and tasting notes are listed in addition to the average score. For the Highly Recommended and Recommended wines, individual and average scores are also listed but tasting notes…

From the cellar Bordeaux cru bourgeois 2014 The cru bourgeois classification was created in 1932 to showcase those Médoc producers just below the estates in the 1855 classification. In 1979 the EU officially recognised the designation, and in 2003 a ministerial decree approved the first official classification of 247 châteaux. After complaints from a few excluded châteaux, this decree was overturned in 2007 and the crus bourgeois entered a ‘no man’s land’ from which they began to emerge in 2009. Each vintage must now be assessed in a blind tasting two years after the harvest and, if accepted, each bottle will show a sticker on the neck that provides a guarantee of volume and authenticity of origin. Today’s 278 member châteaux, across all seven Médoc appellations, represent 33% of the…

PANEL TASTING The results A good standard of winemaking, especially from the standout enclave of Wilyabrup, was the highlight, with judges critical of price versus quality. Christelle Guibert reports WHEN GIVEN THE opportunity to taste 80 wines from one of the world’s top Cabernet Sauvignon regions, it was not surprising that our judges’ expectations were very high. They were anticipating stylish, classy reds, however left the tasting feeling rather underwhelmed. Justin Knock MW questioned whether producers were resting on their laurels a bit: ‘Margaret River has had a great run of vintages and I wonder if that has had a negative impact on style and quality. Are producers really going to the ultimate extreme to make the best wines they can? They are both blessed and cursed by the ease…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Amelia Park, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 94 SA 92 JK 95 AR 94 £39.50 New Generation McKinley, St Andrews Wine Co, Woodwinters Deep ripe plums, tangerine and baked meats flow from the glass, with some red apple skin volatility which gives lift. An interesting structural palate of opulent crème de cassis and chocolate, spilling with focus and style. Drink 2017-2018 Alc 14% Xanadu, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 94 SA 97 JK 92 AR 93 £65 Cru There is a great tension and zip about this wine, with plush plum and lead pencil tones, horseradish spiciness and opulent dark cherry fruitiness. The tannins are like fine silk; this treads very lightly. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 14% Ringbolt, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 94 SA 96 JK 94 AR 92 £14 AC…

My top three Justin Knock MW • Firetail, Cabernet Sauvignon, Wallcliffe 2014 Lots of superb oak but it suits the wine so well, binding the fruit to a deep bed of purring tannins that built to a gravelly finish. A stunning wine for the cellar. 96 Drink 2017-2021 • Amelia Park, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Complex palate overlaying sumptuous tannins. Subtle and herby with a terrific structural tension. I thought this was a compelling wine – obviously well suited to food and contemplation. 95 Drink 2017-2018 • Xanadu, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Glenn Goodall has done an outstanding job, and Xanadu is reaching its potential after a long period of dealing with an oversupply from young vineyards a decade and more ago. This is deeply layered with integrated oak and well…

UK stockists Where to find the wines featured in Decanter this month A&B Vintners, Kent (www.abvintners.co.uk) ABS Wine Agencies, Lincs (www.abswineagencies.co.uk) AC Gallie, Jersey (www.acgallie.com) Adnams, Southwold (www.adnams.co.uk) AG Wines, London (www.agwines.com) Aimee’s Wine House (01275 464 591) Ake & Humphris, Yorks (www.akeandhumphris.co.uk) Albany Vintners, Cambridge (www.albanyvintners.com) Albion Wine Shippers, London WC1 (www.albionwineshippers.co.uk) All About Wine (www.allaboutwine.co.uk) Alliance Wine, Ayrshire (www.alliancewine.co.uk) Alpine Wines (www.alpinewines.co.uk) Amathus Wines, London (www.amathusdrinks.com) Amazon UK (www.amazon.co.uk) Amps Fine Wines, Northants (www.ampsfinewines.co.uk) Armit Wines, London W11 (www.armit.co.uk) Asda, Leeds (www.asda.co.uk) Astrum Wine Cellars, Surrey (www.astrumwinecellars.com) Atlas Fine Wines, London (www.atlasfinewines.com) Auriol Wines, Hampshire (01252 843 190) Averys, Bristol (www.averys.com) Bacchanalia, Cambridge (www.winegod.co.uk) Bancroft, London SE1 (www.bancroftwines.com) Bargain Booze, Cheshire (www.bargainbooze.co.uk) Barton Brownsdon & Sadler, East Sussex (www.bbswine.com) Bat & Bottle, Oakham (www.batwine.co.uk) Baythorne Hall, Essex (www.baythornehall.co.uk)…

The judges Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW Ballesteros Torres is a DWWA Regional co-Chair for Spain and Sherry with Evans (right). He has studied in Jerez, Burgundy, Napa and Bordeaux, and has a masters in viticulture and oenology. A columnist at Vino y Gastronomia and Planeta Vino magazines, he’s on the council of the Institute of Masters of Wine and the governing board of the Spanish Tasters’ Union. Sarah Jane Evans MW Evans is a DWWA Regional co-Chair for Spain and Sherry with Ballesteros Torres (left). An award-winning journalist and writer since the 1980s, she became a Master of Wine in 2006. In 2010 Evans was knighted into the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino for services to Spanish wine, becoming chair of the Institute of Masters of Wine in 2014.…

My top three Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW • Asenjo & Manso, Silvanus 2010 Sheer pleasure – a joy to drink – and a showcase of the best that Ribera can offer. Balanced in its abundance; long and enticing. Great! 94 Drink 2017-2027 • Mirat, Reserva 2005 Wine from a small area in the province of Soria, from very old vines, with a unique character. Finely textured with a delicate finish. Lovely personality. 94 Drink 2017-2031 • Protos, Finca el Grajo Viejo 2014 This marks the return of Protos to the hallowed halls of the best Riberas. A single-vineyard wine built upon brilliant fruit for the long run. Very promising. 92 Drink 2017-2026…

Expert summary: Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW A positive tasting, with 74% Recommended or more, but no ‘wow factor’. And while oak use is less ‘clumsy’ than in the past, overly wooded wines are still an issue ‘It’s still a mystery as to why so many producers want to hide the lovely Tinta Fina fruit behind vulgar oak’ AT FIRST SIGHT, these results don’t seem brilliant, since there are no Outstanding wines, but there are positives. Firstly, there are 20 Highly Recommended and 60 Recommended wines – remarkable numbers. Secondly, with the exception of the top-rated wine, Arzuaga’s Gran Reserva, practically all the other wineries have a superior wine in their range that was not submitted. Lastly, the vintages tasted were, in the main, not the best recent vintages in quality…

The judges Michael Edwards Edwards originally trained in law. In 1968, he joined UK merchant Laytons, and in 2010 he won the Louis Roederer International Wine Book of the Year for The Finest Wines of Champagne. In 2014, Edwards was made a Confrère of St-Vincent de Vertus, the first non-Champenois to be admitted to this order. He blogs at michaelbulles.blogspot.co.uk Simon Field MW Field joined Berry Brothers & Rudd in 1998, having spent several years as a chartered accountant in the City. In addition to buying the Spanish and fortified ranges, he is also responsible for Champagne, Languedoc-Roussillon, the Rhône and the Loire. He gained his Master of Wine qualification in 2002. Xavier Rousset MS Rousset owns Blandford Comptoir and part-owns Cabotte and Greenwich Kitchen, all in London. He started…

My top three Xavier Rousset MS • Charles Heidsieck, Rosé Réserve NV As always, Charles Heidsieck, one of my favourite houses, does well in a blind tasting. This is rich but subtle, complex and balanced and extremely good value for the quality level – especially with 20% of reserve wine in the blend. A deserved winner! 95 Drink 2017-2020 • De Venoge, Louis XV, Brut 2006 A real surprise! Not a house I know very well but maybe through preconceived notions I never associated them with this high level of finesse and complexity. A rich style but well made. 93 Drink 2017-2025 • Moët & Chandon, Brut 2008 Even though this is young and needs time to fully express itself, you can see how much great work has been done…

RESTAURANTS Elystan Street London Reviewed by Fiona Beckett To say I was excited about the opening of Elystan Street is an understatement. It marks the return of Phil Howard, who previously held two Michelin stars at The Square and is considered one of the best chefs in London. In fact, I was so keen to score a table I failed to check that dinner was likely to be twice the price of lunch. No matter. That is probably when you’d be thinking of going. The food, I can assure you, is sublime. I’m still dreaming of the smoked mackerel soup with oysters, a briny swirl of flavours. Grouse with elderberries was cooked to perfection, just rare but not the bloodied tangle of underdone meat it so often can be. There…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge ‘In the Jura, Macvin is served chilled as an aperitif, or with (and even in) dessert’ Petrus – accent or not? I’ve seen Château Pétrus written with and without an accent. Which is correct? Given it’s probably the world’s most famous Merlot, I’d like to know I’m spelling it the right way! Anne Chapman, Kentucky, USA Elisabeth Jaubert, ambassador for Petrus, replies: When Madame Loubat became the full owner of Petrus in Pomerol in 1937, she had the label redesigned. This included dropping the word ‘Château’ as well as the acute é on Petrus. Petrus is the Latin name for St Peter, which does not have an accent. Lees ageing vs batonnage Do…

Next month in Decanter On sale 4 January Burgundy 2015 Best reds & whites Our expert guide to the new vintage releases Photograph: Mick Rock/Cephas PLUS: TASTED & RATED • California Cabernet 2013 • Loire dry Chenin Blanc ALSO... • Emerging talent in Burgundy • Top 10 holiday destinations for wine lovers • Whole-bunch wines, the whole story For subscription offers, see p101, call: +44 (0)845 676 7778 or visit www.decantersubs.com/BTD6 Guess the producer (see opposite page) Nicolas Perrin (St Nicolas, pear+run)…

Collector’s corner Quinta do Noval, Nacional 300th Anniversary Set £19,950 Hedonism A pricy stocking-filler: six of the finest recent Nacional Port vintages: legendary 1963, plus 1994, 1997, 2000, 2003 and 2011, in a handmade wood box. Piper-Heidsieck, Rare Rosé 2007 £325 Harrods, Hedonism Piper’s first prestige cuvée rosé from an atypical year. It’s 56% Chardonnay (mainly Montagne de Reims) and 44% Pinot Noir that has had eight years ageing. Blandy’s, 50 Year Old Malmsey £143.17/500ml New Wine Hugely complex, richly sweet but balanced Madeira. Based mainly on vintages from the 1960s and 1970s, with the oldest wine from 1952 and the youngest from 1978.…

Fine wine price watch Below are the most recent merchant case prices (equivalent 12 x 750ml bottles) for wines that are actively traded among a global network of merchants on Liv-ex, the fine wine market. Liv-ex records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe. All prices are in GBP and exclude sales tax. The numbers in red indicate those prices which have changed since last month. The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The majority of the index consists of Bordeaux wines – a reflection of the overall market – although wines from Burgundy, the Rhône, Champagne and Italy are also included.…