Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2016 i Decanter

In brief Douro Valley estate Quinta do Noval is putting a relatively small parcel of 12,000 bottles of 2014 Noval vintage Port on the market, also releasing 250 cases of rare Nacional vintage Port from 2001. Noval 2014 will cost about £60 a bottle in the UK, with Nacional 2001 priced at about £600. After seven years and ‘about a million prototypes’, inventor Kevin Jabou has launched his iceless ice bucket. Kaelo uses cold, dry air to chill bottles, providing a drip-free pour. The hand-carved bucket has a starting price of £1,890. Billionaire US businessman Thomas Sullivan, founder of Lumber Liquidators and Cabinets To Go, has bought three properties on Bordeaux’s right bank: Château Gaby in Fronsac, Château Moya in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux and Château du Parc in St-Emilion.…

Andrew Jefford ‘It’s finally coming: the magic word “sec” on labels of Alsace wine’ WILL IT BE the recently harvested 2016 vintage? Or will it be 2017? We don’t know yet, but it’s finally coming: the magic word ‘sec’ (meaning ‘dry’) on labels of Alsace wine. As an obligation, not an option. The Association des Viticulteurs d’Alsace has handed the dossier over to the Insititut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (formerly INAO). Since the issue is a ‘simple’ one, an affirmative is expected before long – perhaps in 2017, with the rules being retrospectively applied to wines from the 2016 harvest. How will it work? If you see Sec on an Alsace bottle, it will mean a maximum of 4g/l of residual sugar. Sometimes. Mostly, though, it will…

Decanter Retailer Awards 2016 Where are the best wine shops? For wine lovers, this is a key question. These days, it’s not just about the range, value for money, service and location – but also web functionality, wine dispensers and events. ‘These awards are designed not only to reward our best retailers,’ says chairman Peter Richards MW, ‘but also to champion the best places to buy our wine’ Outstanding Retailer of the Year Winner Tanners ‘A perfect country merchant’ was how one judge described Tanners. To borrow a concept from the Michelin Guide, it’s well worth a detour (or online rummage). A very strong year for the Shropshire-based stalwart that continues to innovate and serve its customers in engaging and delicious fashion. Judges’ Choice Winner Roberson Having made the bold…

Some Kavaklidere wines to try Prestige Öküzgözü Öküzgözü means ox eye, reflecting the size of its grapes. A delicately aromatic wine from Kavaklidere vineyards in Eastern Anatolia. Full-bodied with ripe tannins and concentrated texture; dried red fruit aromas, hints of sweet spices. Matured in French oak for 10 months; good ageing potential. Sommelier Wine Awards – Bronze International Wine and Spirits Competition – Silver Concours Mondial de Bruxelles – Gold Pendore Öküzgözü This is the Öküzgözü grape variety from another terroir, the Aegean coast. No oak, just the character of the indigenous grape variety and the Aegean terroir. Charming dark red fruit aromas and a moderate freshness; a summery, fruity wine. International Wine Challenge –Bronze International Wine and Spirits Competition – Silver Decanter – Bronze Concours Mondial de Bruxelles…

Rhône picks Domaine Georges Vernay, Le Pied de Samson Viognier, Collines Rhodaniennes, Northern Rhône 2014 89 £25 Yapp Brothers Rich flan and mandarin freshness in an impressive bouquet. A rich, nicely deep start leads to flinty, crisp final moments. Lots to be enjoyed. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 12.5% Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, St-Joseph, Northern Rhône 2012 91 £39 A&B Vintners, Yapp Brothers Generous, well fruited, grounded nose. A salty clarity surrounds the heart of prune, fruit compote. Shows glints of granite – a true hillside wine. Drink 2016-2027 Alc 13.5% Domaine Clape, Renaissance, Cornas, Northern Rhône 2011 89 £45 Yapp Brothers Mulberry coulis, a thick fruit air with primrose touches. Open-fronted Cornas, wavy fruit, grainy tannins, set to extend. Drink 2016-2027 Alc 13% Domaine Jamet, Côtes du Rhône, Northern Rhône 2014 88…

California picks Hanzell, Sebella Chardonnay, Sonoma County 2014 87 £25 Armit Somewhat restrained on the nose, as a consequence of some bottle shock. However, the palate is rich and broad, giving a weighty style that’s balanced by sufficient acidity to keep it from being overbearing. Not very subtle, perhaps, but this is balanced and lively on the finish. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13.9% Inglenook, Cask Cabernet, Rutherford, Napa 2008 93 £55 (2011) Handford, Winedirect Rich, toasty blackcurrant nose, with a marked presence of new oak. Opulent and voluptuous, suave and highly concentrated on the palate. Just lacks a little bite and nuance on the finish, but it is imposing, with a very long and chocolatey finish, which shows a hint of alcohol. Drink 2016-2028 Alc 14.8% Ridge, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa…

Producer profile Clos des Papes Instrumental in the establishment of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, this venerable estate adheres steadfastly to its time-honoured values, seeking balance and finesse in its singular red and white cuvées. Matt Walls pays a visit Photograph: Jon Wyand ‘When people say we make the most Burgundian style of Châteauneuf, I’m happy with that’ Paul-Vincent Avril Clos des Papes at a glance Location Southern Rhône, France Winemaker Paul-Vincent Avril Vineyard area 35ha Number of plots 24 Average vine age 35 years old Average yield 22hl/ha Viticultural approach certified organic (Ecocert) Red varieties 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, 5% other Whites varieties Equal parts of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Picpoul, Picardan Average production Rouge 80,000-100,000 bottles Blanc 8,000-10,000; Le Petit Vin d’Avril Rouge 17,000 bottles Blanc…

Best value Burgundy Perhaps not a combination of words that has sprung to mind so readily of late. But, argues Andy Howard MW, recent vintages in Burgundy, notably 2014, are offering quality at good prices – if you know where to look Photograph: Jon Wyand ‘The engine room for Burgundy is white wine, with total volumes in 2015 more than double those of red’ EVERY TWO YEARS, more than 1,000 winemakers from Chablis to the Mâconnais host a vinous journey to showcase their region. This event, the Grands Jours de Bourgogne, took place this year on 21-25 March, with a focus on the 2014 vintage – a year almost universally accepted as one of the great white Burgundy vintages – offering several thousand members of the wine trade with an…

Howard’s choice: 25 great value Burgundies – white and red Photograph: Jon Wyand Domaine A et P de Villaine, Bouzeron 2013 89 £18-£22 Four Walls, Justerini & Brooks, L’Assemblage Vibrant Aligoté. Balanced acidity, fleshy crisp peach and apple notes on the nose and a long, complex, layered finish. Matured in older 400hl foudres for extra depth of flavour. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13% Domaine Cordier, Aux Bois d’Allier, Mâcon 2014 88 £15.75 H2Vin An elegant Mâcon with ripe peach and pear fruit on the palate. Classy, glossy texture, with a touch of oak from maturation in 8- to 10-year-old foudres. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13% Domaine Raphaël Sallet, Mâcon-Uchizy 2014 88 £10 Marks & Spencer Unoaked but with complex, layered flavours allied to crisp acidity and mineral/savoury notes. Focused, elegant and very…

Napa Valley matriarchs Three women remain inspirational family figureheads at the Chappellet, Novak and Duckhorn wineries, which played central roles in the early development of the St Helena winelands. Linda Murphy tells their story WHEN MOLLY AND Donn Chappellet arrived in Napa Valley in 1967, it was a sleepy farm community with only a handful of wineries, very few art or music opportunities, and nowhere exciting to eat – a far cry from their former home in fashionable Rancho Santa Fe in southern California. Yet like so many transplants to Napa in the 1960s and 1970s, the Chappellets wanted to start over, to leave urban life behind and find a more authentic and down-to-earth home for themselves and their children. ‘Donn’s interest was waning in his business,’ Molly Chappellet recalls…

Scoring system Tasters rate the wines using the 100-point scoring system. The overall Decanter rating is the average of all three judges’ scores. The ratings are as follows: 98-100: Exceptional A great, exceptional and profound wine 95-97: Outstanding An excellent wine of great complexity and character 90-94: Highly Recommended A very accomplished wine, with impressive complexity 86-89: Recommended A well-made, straightforward and enjoyable wine 83-85: Commended An acceptable, simple wine with limited personality 76-82: Fair Correctly made, if unexciting 70-75: Poor Unbalanced and/or bland with no character 50-69: Faulty Displays winemaking faults For the Exceptional and Outstanding Decanter ratings, judges’ individual scores and tasting notes are listed in addition to the average score. For the Highly Recommended and Recommended wines, individual and average scores are also listed but tasting notes…

From the cellar Bocca di Lupo The Bocca di Lupo estate covers 140ha of organically farmed vineyards at 300m on calcareous tufa soil. Here the red Aglianico grape, known as ‘the Nebbiolo of the South’, maintains its Greek heritage by producing high tannins alongside natural richness, requiring intelligent cellar work to produce the ‘iron fist in velvet glove’ style that shows well on release while ensuring a long future. This was proved by the first vintage, 2001 (Berkmann, £50.95), which was still robustly vigorous, while the 2004 (£46) had less aggression and more vineyard character. The 2006 (£36.50), from young vines in a cooler vintage, showed smoothness, spice and a wonderful richness of black fruits, both polished and impressive, and with a decade in front of it. 2010 (£64.50), the…

The results A solid set of results for a ‘promising’, ‘easy-going’ and ‘charming’ vintage that offers good value for impatient red Burgundy lovers. Tina Gellie reports on the tasting  A ‘THOROUGHLY DECENT’ tasting, said Jasper Morris MW of these wines (33 of village level and 35 premiers crus). ‘I was a little underwhelmed but not disappointed; while we didn’t find many real high points, the important thing to note was that there were very few low points.’ ‘It’s a really nice, attractive vintage you can drink at any time’ Jasper Morris MW Jason Haynes felt that the one surprise was how easy most of the wines were to enjoy already. ‘I know 2014 is not a terribly tannic, structured vintage but these are still very young wines. On the…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Domaine Antonin Guyon, 1er Cru Les Cras 93 JH 92 WK 91 JM 95 £46.50 Friarwood Red fruits and herbs make for a graceful, elegant, velvety nose that is full of Chambolle character. Pure, fresh and mineral yet with a graceful coating of sweetly ripe fruit. A glossy, suavely powerful wine with persuasive persistence. Drink 2019-2026 Alc 13% Maison Champy 93 JH 94 WK 90 JM 95 N/A UK www.champy.com A bright and youthful purple in the glass, this translates to dense, dark raspberry fruit on the nose and palate, with notes of ripe red cherry and clove. In the mouth this is juicy and lively, an exciting and supple wine framed by ripe tannins. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 13% Boursot Père & Fils, 1er Cru Les Fuées…

My top three William Kelley • Louis Jadot, 1er Cru Les Fuées A Fuées endowed with substantial concentration and sap, wild berry fruit, rock salt and spice. A classic, cellar-worthy wine from one of Chambolle’s best premiers crus. 93 Drink 2019-2024 • Gilbert et Christine Felettig, 1er Cru Les Carrières Juicy black cherry, dark spice and roast squab introduce a concentrated, intense and sappy wine with lots of energy and intensity, which is built for the cellar. Felettig is one of Chambolle’s rising stars: a name to watch. 92 Drink 2018-2022 • Domaine Hubert Lignier, Les Bussières Lignier’s old-school wines can get lost in blind tastings when young, but this one showed brilliantly when tasted from barrel, suggesting it’s a bit closed after recent bottling. Fragrant and supple with crunchy…

Recommended 86–89pts Commended 83-85pts • Abbotsdale, Swartland 2013 85, 12.5% 2016, £12.95 Vincisive • Diemersfontein, Wellington 2014 85, 13% 2016, £15.99 The Blue Glass, Cape Wine & Food, General Wine Co • Diemersfontein, Carpe Diem, Wellington 2014 85, 13% 2016-2017, £15.99-£19.95 General Wine Co, Harrods, Weighbridge Brewhouse • Fairview, Darling 2016 85, 13.5% 2016-2018, £10.99 Noble Green, The Wine Chambers, Wine Man • Jean Daneel Wines, Signature, Western Cape 2014 85, 13% 2016-2017, £22 Huntsworth • Old Vines, Stellenbosch 2015 85, 13% 2016-2019, £10.95 Corney & Barrow Fair 76-82pts • Rhebokskloof, Cellar Selection Bosstok, Paarl 2015 81 For full UK stockist details, see p111 Next month’s panel tastings Médoc crus classés second wines 2009 & 2010 plus Bourgogne Blanc and Etna reds…

My top three Ronan Sayburn MS • De Morgenzon, Reserve, Stellenbosch 2015 Focused and elegant structure with a taut and mineral attack, combining yellow flowers, waxy lemon rind and green papaya. A touch of leesy richness and oak smoke on the mid-palate. Refined with a defined finish of green apples. 95 Drink 2016-2022 • Dewaldt Heyns, Weathered Hands, Swarland 2011 Slightly off dry and reminiscent of a Vouvray, combining bruised cooking apples, pear compote and a spicy melon and quince finish. Rounded, rich and textural with a lovely waxy, lanolin finish. 95 Drink 2016-2020 • Kaapzicht, 1947, Bottelary, Stellenbosch 2015 Mineral chalk dust nose and a broad, rich palate of orchard fruits, apricot and quince with a tautness of crisp green apple acidity. Long and concentrated. 95 Drink 2016-2020…

25 UNDER £20 Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s tastings director Christelle Guibert has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £20 or less * denotes supermarket and high-street wines Nino Franco, Rustico, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, Italy NV 90 £15.99-£16.80 Hedonism, The Wine Library, James Nicholson, Sommelier’s Choice Step out of the sub-£10 category and you’ll you get a much more exciting and complex Prosecco. Here, focused but delicate peach and white floral notes join zesty acidity on a refined palate with sweetness on the finish. Alc 11% Philippe Michel, Chardonnay, Crémant du Jura, France 2013 89 £7.49 Aldi * This is a top-quality sparkling wine at…

Fäviken Magasinet Sweden Reviewed by Fiona Beckett How far would you travel for a great meal? A couple of hours? Twice that? The best part of a day? Well if you want to go to Fäviken it could take you at least that. Magnus Nilssen is a Swedish chef who set up a restaurant in the middle of a remote 8,000ha hunting estate serving locally sourced Scandinavian food. (You can either fly to Ostersund via Stockholm from where it’s about 75 minutes’ drive, or Trondheim in Norway and then a 2.5-hour drive.) With two Michelin stars, it has become one of the world’s iconic restaurants, second place behind Noma in the Nordic White Guide . The atmosphere is homely for a fine-dining restaurant. You’re greeted at the door and led…

Jeannie Cho Lee MW My Hong Kong For wine and food lovers, this city never stops, offering unforgettable gourmet experiences from Michelin-starred dining rooms and BYO bistros to street stall noodles HONG KONG IS a city that understands the value of time. I arrived 22 years ago from Manhattan – but it was here in Hong Kong that I learned the meaning of ‘fast-paced’. Manhattanites may rush, but Hong Kongers run. In Cantonese restaurants, food arrives almost as soon as you’ve ordered; escalators move at double speed; elevator buttons are so sensitive that the doors close as soon as you press them; setting up a limited company takes just a day and any location more than 15 minutes away by car is considered ‘too far’. Over the past decade, Hong…

Tasting notes decoded Vinyl Vinyl. Not your typical aroma or tasting note, but it is used to describe this almost sweet, intriguing plastic quality. It may be a sign of reduction, where in the winemaking, lack of oxygen creates a growth of chemical compounds called mercaptans. These can be extremely unpleasant, creating notes of rotten eggs, cabbage or struck matches. However, if a balance is achieved in this reductive technique, desirable notes can be created, such as quince, smokiness, peardop or even vinyl. (Tasting note from p97)…

In brief Artistic collaboration from Mas Languedoc’s Jean-Claude Mas has collaborated with French crystal maker Daum to produce Domaines Paul Mas, AAA Astélia 2015. The one-off cuvée, made from the top reds of the 12 Mas estates in the Hérault valley, will be presented in 30 crystal 1.2-litre bottles and sold en primeur for charity at auctions in 10 countries. The move was inspired by Daum’s Salvador Dalí crystal series. Acker’s new online platform Acker Merrall unveiled a new version of its online auction platform in time for an autumn series of sales in New York and Hong Kong. Features include real-time bidding on auction day, access to watched lots, active and past bids, and real-time live chat operated by Hong Kong and US agents. Apps are optimised for iPhone,…

John Stimpfig ‘Restaurants that offer wine lovers something out of the ordinary’ THIS MONTH SEES the much-anticipated return of our restaurant review section – complete with a new reviewer, a new format and a new sponsor. Fiona Beckett, a long-standing contributing editor to Decanter, a multi-award winning writer and an expert in food and wine matching is the perfect person to take on the extremely enviable role of our chief restaurant critic. I’m also proud to announce that our new restaurant sponsor will be the vintage Cognac specialists Thomas Hine & Co. This ancient and dynamic house (which dates back to 1753) has never produced better eaux de vie than it does now under cellarmaster Eric Forget. Most impressively, its portfolio – from its H by Hine up to its…

Jane Anson ‘I am told over and again that only scores over 90 ever shift bottles’ I CAN STILL remember the first time that I really understood the full craziness of producers’ reactions to a sub-90 score. In 2011, I gave an 89-point review to the 2010 outing of a well-known AC Bordeaux Supérieur château. The words that went with it were largely positive (‘rich and velvety’), although I questioned some parts of the balance and blend of the wine. But the producer – who lives between Bordeaux and Singapore, so in theory fairly open – was quite clearly furious, and emailed to let me know that my review ‘really hurt’ and that he was ‘very disappointed with (my) appreciations’. It is becoming increasingly obvious that anything under 90 points…

The judging panel Peter Richards MW is chairman of the Decanter Retailer of the Year Awards, a writer and a broadcaster Christelle Guibert is Decanter’s tastings director and has worked in wine for more than 20 years Allan Cheesman is a 40-year veteran of the UK wine industry, now a consultant and non-executive director Stephen Brook is a Decanter contributing editor, awarded author and wine writer Matt Walls is a wine writer, author and editor of The London Wine Guide app This year’s coveted awards were presented at a special ceremony on 14 September at the Connaught Hotel in London. Our thanks to Charles Heidsieck for providing the Champagne at the ceremony.…

Little brothers The second wines and ‘other’ wines from the big-name producers stand on their own merit, argues Stephen Brook. Here, six of our writers recommend some of their favourite ‘lesser’ cuvées from around the world Photograph: Mike Prior FOR THOSE OF us that can no longer afford the bottles that represent the crème de la crème of the wine world, second wines – or other lesser wines from the same producer, which may not be official ‘second’ wines – serve a useful purpose, giving us access to a slightly inferior version of the real thing, but at an accessible price. A second wine is genuine caviar; it just isn’t Beluga. The second wine is an elastic concept, and not everyone – whether producer or consumer – perceives them in…

Tuscany picks Biondi Santi, Rosso di Montalcino 2013 90 £23.67 (ib) - £30 Capital Vintners, Davis Bell McCraith, Handford Pale carmine shade, delicate nose of red cherry, iris floral notes and almonds, with a hint of powder puff. Tight and long on the palate, very pure, very restrained, even a touch austere, but very classic, very Biondi Santi. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13% Poggio di Sotto, Rosso di Montalcino 2013 89 £30.83 (ib) (2011) Handford, Justerini & Brooks Intense, spicy fruit with complexity on the nose: blackberry jam, vanilla, cinnamon, chestnut flour, nutmeg. Vibrant, juicy fruit on the palate, tannins a bit raw, with lots of oak to absorb. One to keep. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13.5% Tenuta Argentiera Villa Donoratico, Bolgheri Rosso 2013 89 £27-£32 Eurowines, Great Wines Direct, Handford, Santé…

South American picks Bodega Noemía, J Alberto, Río Negro, Patagonia, Argentina 2014 96 £34.99-£39.99 (2013) Invinity, Ministry of Drinks, The Wine Treasury The old Malbec vines for this red give a profound and refreshing array of flavours; the texture is soft and elegant, the acidity tense and tight. Will keep. Drink 2016-2024 Alc 14.5% Almaviva Epu, Maipo, Chile 2013 93 N/A UK www.almavivawinery.com In this cold vintage, Epu shines with its herbal, spicy flavours, but also with the riper, more voluptuous fruit behind. Texture feels tight and firm. Ready now for steak, but better and more complex in five years. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 14.5% Altaïr, Sideral, Cachapoal, Chile 2013 93 £15.99 Rannoch Scott From the Andean Piedmont foothills, this Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend is a red that’s full of light,…

Rive: prominent producers There are 43 registered rive names, of which around two dozen are in current use. The following is a list of the most exploited ones (in bold), with a brief selection of the top producers in each. Colbertaldo – Adami Collalto – Borgo Luce; Tenuta degli Ultimi Col San Martino – Andreola; Merotto; Bortolotti Farra di Soligo – Adami; La Farra Guia – La Tordera; Tanorè; Bortolin Ogliano – Masottina; Zardetto Refrontolo – Andreola; Astoria S. Pietro di Barbozza – Roccat; Rebuli; Bortolomiol Santo Stefano – Bortolotti; Le Colture Soligo – Andreola Solighetto – Spagnol…

Clos des Papes – a timeline 1873 Entire Châteauneuf vineyard destroyed by phylloxera; birth of Paul-Eugène Avril 1878 Re-establishment of the Châteauneuf vineyards begins 1890 600 hectares replanted 1896 First bottled vintage of Clos des Papes 1901 Paul-Eugène’s son, Régis Avril, is born 1902 Clos des Papes brand registered 1911 First commission for classifying the Châteauneufdu-Pape vineyard held, chaired by Paul-Eugène Avril 1937 Paul Avril, Régis’ son, is born 1954 First vintage of Clos des Papes Blanc…

Howard’s choice: 25 great value Burgundies – white Bret Brothers, La Soufrandière, Les Longeays, Pouilly-Vinzelles 2014 94 £27.50 (2013) Berry Bros & Rudd A lovely example of Pouilly – mineral, focused, real intensity. Clay-limestone soils, whole-berry pressing, barrel fermentation and up to 12 months’ maturation in oak. A great food wine, intense but with supple oak character. Will age 3-5 years. Drink 2017-2022 Alcohol 13% Domaine William Fèvre, Vaulorent, Chablis 1er Cru 2014 93 £29.17 (ib) Albany Vintners The ‘insider’s’ choice, Vaulorent is adjacent to the grand cru Les Preuses, although it is technically part of premier cru Fourchaume. Driven, mineral, great ability to age and develop layers of complex flavours. Drink 2017-2024 Alc 13% Bret Brothers, Le Clos Reyssié, Pouilly-Fuissé 2014 93 N/A UK www.bretbrothers.com Savoury, mineral and very…

A fine balance The use of oak for fermentation and ageing is increasingly sophisticated, and today’s winemaker is faced with a wealth of decisions to make. William Kelley examines the role of the barrel Photograph: Mick Rock/Cephas ‘The objective of élevage is to civilise and refine a wine’s structure’ François Mitjaville, Tertre-Rôteboeuf A ROMAN RELIEF in Avignon’s Calvet Museum captures a revolution in the history of wine. A group of slaves pull a barge upstream on the Rhône: on it sit two hooped casks, but above them stands a row of amphorae. We are transported back to a moment of transition in the 2nd century AD when the wooden barrel, an invention of the Celts, superseded the ceramic amphora as the universal container for wine. Less fragile and easier…

At a glance Chappellet Vineyards Founded 1967 by Molly and Donn Chappellet Current owner Chappellet family Key varieties Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Flagship wine Chappellet, Pritchard Hil, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Current winemaker Phillip Corallo-Titus Past winemakers Philip Togni, Joe Cafaro, Tony Soter, Cathy Corison Affiliated label Sonoma-Loeb Duckhorn Vineyards Founded 1976 by Margaret and Dan Duckhorn, plus investors New owner TSG Consumer Partners (acquisition from GI Partners announced 29 August 2016) Key varieties Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Flagship wine Three Palms Vineyard, Napa Valley Merlot Current winemaker Renée Ary Past winemakers Tom Rinaldi, Mark Beringer, Bill Nancarrow Affiliated labels Canvasback, Decoy, Goldeneye, Migration, Paraduxx Spottswoode Estate Founded 1972 by Mary and Jack Novak Current owner Novak family Key varieties Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon Flagship wine…

Spurrier’s World Decanter’s globetrotting consultant editor gives us a round-up of recent tastings, his views on current issues in the wine world and top bottles to drink or keep ‘Since terroir cannot speak, it obliges us to speak of it’ Values of art and wine I was invited to the London Library to attend a lecture by Philip Hook, director of impressionist and modern art at Sotheby’s and author of Breakfast at Sotheby’s, on the question ‘What gives your art value?’, I was struck by how well his 10 questions can also be applied to the value of fine wine: 1. Is it authentic? In art, copies of originals have more visual value than financial. Fake wines have neither. 2. Is the artist fashionable? Forty years ago, Old Masters topped…

For the cellar 2015 and 2014 Beaujolais Both these vintages in Beaujolais were very good, as proven in a tasting of 160 wines in June. Apart from admirable individuality that will gain from a year or two in bottle (my 2009s are now marvellous), these wines are very good value. Here are my selections, all 90/100 points or more, across the 10 crus. Domaine des Marrans, Vieilles Vignes, Chiroubles 2014, fine lift and elegance (ABS Wine Agencies, £17.50); Château de Pierreux, Brouilly 2015, great expression, depth and character (Liberty Wines, £16.99); Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly 2014, elegant earthy depth (Master of Malt, £18); Domaine Lagneau, Cuvée Gerard, Régnié 2014, vigour from 70-year-old vines, still young; Domaine Lathuilière-Gravallon, Fleurie 2015, great finesse and charm (Corney & Barrow, £13.50); Domaine de…

The judges Jason Haynes Haynes is buying director of Burgundy specialist merchant Flint Wines and spends much of his time tasting in the region. In 2009, with 15 years of buying experience behind him, he was ‘knighted’ at Clos de Vougeot by the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. William Kelley Kelley first fell in love with wine aged 17, after tasting a 1955 Château Lynch Bages. Under the guidance of the late Hugo Dunn-Meynell, he cut his teeth as a taster on many of the great clarets and Burgundies of the 1940s, ’50s and ’60s. He is the former president of the Oxford University Wine Circle and lives in Napa. Jasper Morris MW Morris is the DWWA Regional Chair for Burgundy and the Burgundy buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd.…

My top three Jasper Morris MW • Domaine Taupenot Merme, 1er Cru La Combe d’Orveau A premier cru that on another day might have been included in grand cru Musigny. So no surprise to see this one come out at the top, especially in the assured hands of Romain Taupenot. 95 Drink 2019-2026 • Maison Champy For me the pick of the village-level wines, flirting with a richer style of Chambolle that will find many friends, yet still delivering energy and a sense of balance. Something for everybody here. 95 Drink 2019-2023 • Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat, 1er Cru Les Charmes One of Burgundy’s classic domaines, making wines of real elegance. This had an impeccable Chambolle feel to it, and had been picked with enough ripeness, yet without losing vibrancy. I love…

The results One of Decanter’s most successful panel tastings, with these characterful, great-value wines drawng comparison with grand cru Burgundy. Christelle Guibert reports  WITH MORE THAN half the wines Highly Recommended or more – including for the first time in a Decanter panel tasting an Exceptional score – this is undoubtedly our most successful tasting of 2016. And with 75% of them less than £20, it’s arguably the best value too. Tim Atkin MW said: ‘The quality of the top wines is outstanding; up there with the best of the Loire, and pretty close to the best of white Burgundy.’ ‘I don’t think the world has yet appreciated how great these wines can be’ Tim Atkin MW There was a lot of comparison to France. ‘Discussing Cape Chenin Blanc…

Outstanding 95–97pts Alvi’s Drift, Albertus Viljoen, Worcester 2013 95 TA 94 RS 97 GS 94 £19.99 DBM, Slurp, Sogrape UK Using the talents and experience of Linley Schultz, one of only a few Australian winemakers working in South Africa, Alvi’s Drift is based in the Breede River Valley in the co-operative-dominated area of Worcester, well off the usual tourist wine route. It has a habit of confounding expectations in blind tastings, although this is only the second vintage of its top-of-the-range Chenin Blanc. The farm is also home to a dairy and a piggery, but Alvi and Johan Van der Merwe are increasingly wine-focused. TA A toasty, developed nature, with a refreshing balance of alcohol, richness and concentration. Mature, but has grace and elegance. RS Mineral and fresh nose with…

My top three Greg Sherwood MW • David & Nadia Sadie, Hoë-Steen, Swartland 2015 Such a lovely sense of place, time and terroir wrapped into this 360-bottle production. Beautiful balance, intensity and filigree complexity not dissimilar to a great white grand cru Burgundy. 98 Drink 2016-2022 • Ken Forrester Wines, The FMC, Helderberg, Stellenbosch 2014 Bold and broad without ever obscuring its textural precision. Cassis leaf reduction adds to its complexity. Consistently one of South Africa’s best Chenins and now a true icon wine. Hats off to Ken, Martin Meinert and team. 96 Drink 2016-2020 • Raats, Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2015 This fine, classy wine needs more contemplation; like a tightly wound spring, it still has lots of unfurling to do. Taut, restrained and crisp in a beguiling,…

Expert summary: Tim Atkin MW It can be hard to tell the style of Chenin from the label, but you can’t go wrong with many in this terroir-driven, regionally diverse line-up – especially the wines from 2015 ‘What all the best wines had in common was balance and, where used, subtle oak integration’ IT FACES INCREASING competition from Chardonnay, but Chenin Blanc is South Africa’s best white variety, giving wines that combine minerality with concentration at prices that should make everyone’s mouth water. One of the problems with Chenin – and this is just as true in its native Loire Valley – is working out what it will taste like from the label. Cape Chenin can be wooded or unwooded, dry or off-dry, leesy and textured or steely and precise.…

UK stockists Where to find the wines featured in Decanter this month A&B Vintners, Kent (www.abvintners.co.uk) AC Gallie, Jersey (www.acgallie.com) Adnams Southwold (www.adnams.co.uk) AG Wines, London (www.agwines.com) Aged in Oak Wine Co (www.agedinoak.co.uk) Aitken Wines, Dundee (www.aitkenwines.com) Albany Vintners, Cambridge (www.albanyvintners.com) Albion Wine Shippers, London (www.albionwineshippers.co.uk) Alexander Hadleigh, Southampton (www.ahadleigh-wine.com) Alexander Wines, Glasgow (www.alexander-wines.co.uk) All About Wine (www.allaboutwine.co.uk) Alliance Wine (www.alliancewine.co.uk) Altus Wine, Hants (www.altuswine.co.uk) Amazon UK (www.amazon.co.uk) Amps, Northants (www.ampsfinewines.co.uk) Ann et Vin, Notts (www.annetvin.com) Arkwrights, Wilts (www.whiskyandwines.com) Armit Wines, London W11 (www.armit.co.uk) Aske Wine, London (www.askewine.co.uk) Asset Wines, London (www.assetwines.com) Astrum Wine Cellars, Surrey (www.astrumwinecellars.com) Auriol Wines, Hants (01252 843 190) Averys, Bristol (www.averys.com) Bablake, Coventry (www.bablakewines.co.uk) Bacchus et Al, Guildford (01483 502590) Bancroft, London SE1 (www.bancroftwines.com) Barton Brownsdon & Sadler, East Sussex (www.bbswine.com) Bay Tree Wine Co,…

MY PERFECT DAY IN FRANCIACORTA MORNING Start the day where Franciacorta was first re-fermented in the bottle in 1961 at the Guido Berlucchi winery in Borgonato (www.berlucchi.it). The Ziliani family has dedicated a special label to that first vintage, while another label is named after stately home Palazzo Lana. Barone Pizzini (www.baronepizzini.it) in Provaglio d’Iseo also holds a record: that of being the first winery to produce DOCG Franciacorta from organic grapes. The winery offers two tasting opportunities via the Animante tour or the Edizione tour with vintage-focused tasting. LUNCH A trip to Dispensa Pani e Vini in Adro (www.dispensafranciacorta.com) is highly recommended. At this inn-bistro, surrounded by hundreds of Franciacorta labels, one can savour traditional dishes reinterpreted with intelligence, ranging from baked tench to beef in oil (see p119).…

Collector’s corner Gosset, Célébris, Champagne 2004 £110 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Corney & Barrow, Fine & Rare, Justerini & Brooks, Lay & Wheeler The first Célébris release since the untimely death of cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Mareigner. Castiglion del Bosco, Millecento, Tuscany 2010 £115 Ellis of Richmond, Harrods, Hedonism A 7,000-bottle Brunello riserva from an organically treated, high-density plot in the Capanna vineyard. Bruno Paillard, NPU, 2003 £160 Cru Fifth vintage of the Champagne Nec Plus Ultra (‘nothing further beyond’). Grapes from Oger, Chouilly, Verzenay and Mailly, low dosage, and 12 years in the cellar.…

Letter of the month Accentuate the positives HAVING HOLIDAYED EARLIER this year in Sardinia, I read with interest on returning home that the central region of this beautiful island is now a designated Blue Zone. This status is conferred on specific areas around the world that boast an unusually high number of centenarians. There are almost 50 times as many Sardinian centenarians as there are in the UK or US. So what’s the secret? Unsurprisingly, lifestyle is an important factor, with daily exercise and a balanced diet of vegetables, goats’ cheese, goats’ milk and other local produce contributing towards a long and prosperous life. But wine also plays an important part, with one or two glasses daily considered the absolute minimum among octogenarians and nonagenarians alike. My own hastily conducted…

Kavaklidere Tradition brought up to date in Anatolia Kavaklidere’s winemaking vision is to produce wines which reflect the characteristics of the indigenous grape varieties used and the richness of Anatolian “terroir” Turkey’s oldest and leading wine producer, Kavaklidere, celebrates its 87 years of passion for wine this year. The family-owned company was founded in 1929 in Ankara, and since then four generations have worked to produce wines which reflect the characteristics of the indigenous grapes used and the richness of the Anatolian terroir. Kavaklidere is the largest private wine-growing estate in Turkey and owns 645 hectares of vineyards in different wine-growing areas of Turkey. The Aegean coast, and Central and Eastern Anatolia are the principal regions. Bearing further witness to commitment to quality and sustainable viticulture, Kavaklidere owns two estates…

Bordeaux picks Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Les Hauts de Smith Blanc, Pessac-Léognan 2014 91 £14.67 (ib) Fine & Rare Château Smith Haut Lafitte has done the same thing as Château Léoville Las Cases by introducing its Le Petit Haut Lafitte to be the ‘true’ second wine, with Les Hauts de Smith essentially a completely different label. Easily one of my favourites in Bordeaux, particularly the white version, which is made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc and is instantly recognisable from its exuberant nose. Shows bright citrus, slate minerality and exotic fuits. Full of enjoyment. Drink 2016-2021 Alcohol 13% Château Léoville Las Cases, Le Petit Lion, St-Julien 2010 94 £44.50 (ib) - £69.95 Berry Bros & Rudd, Harrods, Justerini & Brooks This wine was added to the output of Château Léoville…

Spanish picks Descendientes de J Palacios, Las Lamas, Bierzo 2013 96 £60-£64.95 Harrods, Laithwaite’s If you can’t lay your hands on La Faraona – and with only one barrel, there’s little chance – then there are several super-seconds in this stable to choose from. Las Lamas, Mencía with 11% white varieties, is an alluring option. Pure, punchy, crunchy Mencía, but with real refinement. (2015 tasted) Drink 2018-2025 Alc 14.5% Muga, Torre Muga, Rioja 2011 95 £38.50-£52.60 Berry Bros & Rudd, Nickolls and Perks, The Wine Society The Muga family’s expertise runs across classical gran/reservas, through to the new wave Aro and its sibling Torre Muga. Aro is only made in the best years; Torre Muga appears most years. French oak, Tempranillo with Mazuelo and Graciano. Still young, needs time…

Top 25 New World sparkling wines Our experts tasted through 95 latest-release premium bubblies from North and South America, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa to bring you the best 25 available in the UK today. Andy Howard MW analyses the results CONSUMPTION OF SPARKLING wines continues to rise in the UK, with Decanter reporting (August 2016) that sales were 80% higher than five years ago. Although partly driven by the inexorable growth of Prosecco, this also reflects increased availability of traditional-method sparkling wine – in the UK more is consumed than Champagne, so this tasting of top New World fizz is very topical. ‘New World’ is an old-fashioned description for wines produced outside of traditional European sources, but is a useful way to categorise wines made in diverse locations…

Premium Cava: candidates for Paraje Calificado Gramona, Celler Batlle, Gran Reserva 2005 96 £60-£86.99 (2004) Berry Bros & Rudd, Blanco & Gomez, Christopher Keiller 75% Xarel.lo, 25% Macabeo, aged more than seven years. Commemorates Batlle, who first started making Cava in 1881. Licor de expedición comes from a family solera more than 100 years old. Age gives terrific complexity: creamy texture, ripe stone fruits citrus, pastry and roasted nuts. Drink 2016-2021 Alcohol 13% Recaredo, Turó d’en Mota 2001 96 £105.70-£136 Christopher Keiller, Fine & Rare, Nickolls & Perks, Theatre of Wine What’s not to like? Superbly complex, delicate, elegant; an original. This biodynamic family winery pays the closest attention to detail. This is the top of an exciting range, but with more than 10 years of age it remains gloriously…

Prosecco rive: Baudains’ top 10 Bortolomiol, Grande Cuvée del Fondatore, Motus Vitae, Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza Brut, Valdobbiadene 2013 90 N/A UK www.bortolomiol.com Slightly leafy start on the nose, but opening to a rich floral bouquet, with dried fruit and then intriguing Mediterranean herbs. Pears and yellow apple follow on the palate, a beautiful light airy texture, but intense flavours. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 12% Andreola, Más de Fer, Rive di Soligo Extra Dry, Conegliano Valdobbiadene 2015 89 N/A UK www.andreola.eu Intriguing complexity on the nose, revealing rose petal notes with a hint of gunflint. Concentrated red apple freshness and dried apricot fruit on the palate, with very tangy, citrussy acidity underneath. Has structure and length. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 11.5% Merotto, La Primavera di Barbara, Rive di Col San…

A taste of Clos des Papes Clos des Papes, Blanc 2014 94 £42.60 A&B Vintners, Lay & Wheeler, Vin Cognito Open and eager to please. Pure fennel and pear with some citrus and a high-toned florality. Bright, glinting minerality, lovely balance and length. Long and structured, with a tiny touch of tannin and citrus pith. Drink 2016-2029 Alc 14.5% Clos des Papes, Le Petit Vin d’Avril Blanc, Vin de France NV 87 N/A UK www.clos-des-papes.fr A languid wine, with broad brush aromas of apricot, pear, fennel and raw cream. It has an agreeable richness and generosity of fruit. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 13.5% Clos des Papes 1990 99 £216 Nickolls & Perks Unusually this was not destemmed as the stems were so brown. Aromatically complex, with notes of earth, dried leaves,…

Top tips: unearthing Burgundy’s best value • Don’t write off the less-fashionable appellations within the Côte d’Or – (north to south) Marsannay, Fixin, Monthélie, Maranges. In 2014 they provide much of the quality of more famous names at very reasonable prices, while benefiting from some great individual climats • Buy Bourgogne blanc and rouge from top domaines with confidence • If you have favourite producers, buy across their quality range – you’ll get a great understanding of the importance of terroir • Wines at the village level are worthy alternatives to premier cru in 2013 and 2014, and are highly representative of their specific appellations, while offering good value • Don’t overlook the Mâconnais and Côte Chalonnaise – there is real diversity and balance in the 2014s from Pouilly-Fuissé, Viré-Clessé,…

Kelley’s picks: great, oak-influenced wines to try Ulysse Collin, Les Pierrières, Côte des Blancs, Champagne, France NV 94 £45 VineTrail Olivier Collin took over his family’s vines and started grower-bottling after a stage with Anselme Selosse. Aromas of lemon oil, wet rocks and struck flint are the prelude to an authoritative, intense wine of searing minerality. The base wine is barrel fermented in used oak. Drink 2016-2035 Alcohol 12.5% Kalin Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc, Livermore Valley, California, USA 2001 93 £28.50 OW Loeb From vines planted in the 1880s with cuttings from Château d’Yquem. Aged sur lie for an amazing two years! Aromas of orange rind, petrol, lanolin, toasted nuts; a glossy, textural and refined wine. Sauvignon Blanc in the old-school white Bordeaux paradigm, executed at the highest level. Drink 2016-2025…

The Decanter guarantee Our buying guide is here to provide you with trusted, independent, expert recommendations on what to buy, what to drink and what to cellar. Each panel tasting is judged by three experienced tasters chosen for their authority in the category of wine being rated. All wines are tasted blind and are pre-poured for judges in flights of eight to 10 wines. Our three experts taste and score their set of wines individually but then discuss their scores together at the end of each flight. Any wines on which scores are markedly different are retasted; however, judges are under no obligation to amend their scores. Judges are encouraged to look for typicity in wines, rewarding those which are true to their region. Prices are…

Steven recommends... Champagne Salmon, Pinot Meunier Rosé Brut, France NV 91 £34.99 The Fizz Co With 10ha touching the Montagne de Reims planted 85% to Pinot Meunier, the Salmon family shows justifiable pride in Champagne’s ‘third’ variety: red summer fruits, floral and spicy notes with zest and suppleness to finish clean and dry, thanks to a low 7g/l dosage. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 12% Maximin Grünhaus, Abtsberg Riesling Superior, Mosel, Germany 2015 92 £17.50 (ib) Howard Ripley, Justerini & Brooks, OW Loeb ‘Superior’ refers to the Father Superior or Abbot of St Maximin’s Abbey in nearby Trier. Comes from the vineyard’s best grapes. This is superbly floral with white fruits and a very classy, dry finish. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 12% Château de Vaux, Chardonnay, Beaujolais-Villages, France 2015 90 £10.15 Christopher Piper,…

PANEL TASTING Chambolle-Musigny 2014 Ideal vintage conditions in this much-admired Burgundy region resulted in wines that reflect its characteristic elegance and complexity, reports Andy Howard MW Map: Maggie Nelson THE SMALL, CHARMING village of Chambolle-Musigny is located between two of the main powerhouses of the Côte d’Or – Vosne-Romanée to the south and Gevrey-Chambertin to the north. Chambolle is often considered to be the most ‘feminine’ of the communes of the Côte de Nuits, but this is an over-simplification given the diversity of both terroir and producers to be found in this beautiful region. What is certain is that good Chambolle-Musigny is among the greatest of red Burgundies, characterised by elegant wines that offer charm, finesse and lift, as opposed to the more powerful, denser wines of the village’s neighbours.…

Outstanding 95–97pts Maison Frédéric Magnien, 1er Cru Les Feusselottes Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Jason Haynes 95 William Kelley 95 Jasper Morris MW 95 £59 Domaine Direct Maison Magnien is the own label of Frédéric Magnien, one of the most dynamic winemakers in the Côte de Nuits, under which he produces top-quality cuvées with grapes sourced from the best sites and top growers. Decidedly non-traditional in label design, yet the wine in the bottle always highlights the unique character of individual sites. Made with a minimalist approach, the wines are unfined, unfiltered and produced following biodynamic principles. Oak is used only where necessary. These are some of the top wines of the Côte de Nuits. Jason Haynes Ripe red cherry fruit of striking purity is followed by a…

My top three Jason Haynes • Maison Champy It was a very pleasant surprise to discover this was a Champy wine as it’s been a while since their wines have excited me. It was wonderfully Chambolle in style, with a great blend of sweet, juicy fruit and refined, elegant harmony. Impressive for a village wine. 94 Drink 2019-2023 • Manuel Olivier This is not a domaine that I know well, but I was impressed with the freshness and structure of this wine, which suggested there was plenty more to come. It was nicely Chambolle and focused, but with the potential to really evolve into something very attractive. 94 Drink 2019-2023 • Domaine Philippe Chéron, Les 40 Ouvrées This is in the modern style, but it works and doesn’t push things…

Expert summary: Andy Howard MW You’ll find good value among the domaine bottlings and premiers crus of Chambolle in 2014, a vintage that offers options for both medium-term drinking or cellaring  AS YOU WOULD hope from one of the top communes of the Côte de Nuits, this was a strong set of results. With two Outstanding and 21 Highly Recommended wines, the panel appreciated the quality and finesse on show. More than 80% of the wines tasted received a score of Recommended or higher. When considering whether the premiers crus live up to their star billing (and much higher prices), the results would suggest that they deliver. Of the Outstanding and Highly Recommended wines, more than 70% were premiers crus. ‘Do the Chambolle premiers crus live up to their star…

The judges Tim Atkin MW Atkin is an award-winning writer and photographer whose annual South Africa Special Report is available via his website Timatkin.com He has contributed to a number of books on wine as well as writing two of his own, and has judged wines all over the world. Ronan Sayburn MS Sayburn is head of wines at London private members club 67 Pall Mall and chief operations officer of the European Court of Master Sommeliers. He has worked for the Gordon Ramsay group as executive head sommelier and was director of wines and spirits for the Hotel du Vin group. Greg Sherwood MW Sherwood is general manager of fine wines at London’s Handford Wines – a specialist in South African wines among others – where he has worked since…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Leeuwenkuil, Heritage, Swartland 2014 94 TA 93 RS 93 GS 95 £22 New Generation McKinley This is a broad, leesy, complex and tight-knit wine. Serious, very grown up and textural – cerebral even. It is honeyed, but with lots of minerality and structure and lovely grapefruit and lemon acidity. Drink 2016-2021 Alc 13% Rijk’s, Reserve, Tulbagh 2011 94 TA 94 RS 94 GS 94 £22-£24.99 Cellar Twelve, Highbury Vintners, SA Wines Online, The Vineking, Woodwinters A creamy, leesy, barrel-aged example that has volume and weight. Pencil shavings, vanilla, ripe papaya and guava are complemented by beautiful acidity. Drink 2016-2021 Alc 14% The Winery of Good Hope, Vinum Africa, Stellenbosch 2015 94 TA 94 RS 93 GS 94 £11.50 Oddbins Rich, bold, waxy and profound. Hints of crème…

My top three Tim Atkin MW • David & Nadia Sadie, Hoë-Steen, Swartland 2015 Just a single barrel is made of this exceptional Chenin, from a 50-year-old vineyard. Naturally fermented, with amazing focus, it has rapidly estalished itself as one the Cape’s very best whites. 98 Drink 2016-2022 • Anthonij Rupert, Van Lill & Visser, Citrusdal Mountain 2014 Basie Van Lill is one of the Cape’s most famed growers. His Chenin is 80% of this blend, with some equally impressive material from neighbour Joshua Visser’s farm. A focused wine that shows the influence of altitude. 96 Drink 2017-2024 • De Morgenzon, Reserve, Stellenbosch 2015 This wine fully vindicates Carl van der Merwe’s increased focus on whites. Old vines, subtle oak and a special site, with classical music playing in the…

EXPERT’S CHOICE Bordeaux 2013 classified reds The 2013 vintage threw more challenges at the Bordeaux winemaker than arguably any in recent times, yet there are still pleasures to be found, says Stephen Brook IT WAS THE weakest Bordeaux vintage in well over a decade. A wet spring led to a delayed flowering and uneven ripening, and while July was hot, storms on 27 July dumped rain on the vines. A few days later hail and high winds wreaked havoc in Entre-deux-Mers, though the prestigious regions were less affected. August was problematic and there was widespread leaf-pulling and bunch-thinning to improve aeration and ripening. Rains increased in September and temperatures were cool for a while. There was more heavy rain in late September and early October, while growers were still waiting…

LETTER FROM THE KITCHEN Brian St Pierre ‘Today’s cooking and wine are a different set of destinations’ ‘I thought I’d seen it all, but I was wrong: new kids, new ideas, nouvelle cuisine again’ AT A RECENT get-together of the Guild of Food Writers, a group of us were having a discussion that bounced between amusement and perplexity. It was about restaurants borrowing inspiration from Asia, with emphasis on unusual presentations and artfully complex simplicity, conceived by young chefs with flair, featuring the freshest possible ingredients in intriguing combinations of flavours. We were actually reminiscing about the hot trend in the 1970s – the nouvelle cuisine of Paul Bocuse, Roger Vergé and the Troisgros brothers – and how what went around once has certainly come around again, cheerfully unhampered by…

HINE COGNAC A taste of terroir It is a well-known fact that terroir is key to fine wine, but little known that it’s equally important for fine Cognac. In great harvests Hine makes a single-vineyard, single-vintage Cognac: Domaines de Bonneuil. Located in the picturesque Colinaud Valley, it is made from grapes grown in the deep, chalky soil of the undulating slopes of the Grande Champagne, the ‘first growth’ area of Cognac. The wine is distilled on its lees to enhance the fruit and flavours in the new spirit. The young eau-de-vie is then transferred into fine-grain, second-fill, French oak casks to gently age for about 10 years in the estate’s cellar before release.…

Grape varieties with Julia Harding MW Kerner Bred in in southern Germany in 1929 by August Herold, by crossing Schiava Grossa (aka Trollinger, red) with Riesling, Kerner’s success has always been limited by the superiority of its light-skinned parent. Although Schiava Grossa is thought to come from Alto Adige in northern Italy, it was once widely planted in Europe, and in Germany it has been used to breed several other crosses, including Muscat of Hamburg. Kerner reached its apogee there in the early 1990s but has been on the decline since then; in 2012 it was the sixth most planted white variety in Germany (about 3,000ha). Its popularity was probably due to its reliable yields and higher levels of sugar and acidity than Müller-Thurgau, but it does have similarities with…

Hammer highlights • Sotheby’s, Hong Kong, 3 September: 12 bottles of Latour 1982 sold for HK$196,000 (high estimate: HK$170,000); six bottles of Le Pin 2009 sold for HK$171,500 (high e: HK$200,000); one imperial of Latour 1982 sold for HK$159,250 (high e: HK$140,000); 12 bottles of Pétrus 1975 sold for HK$159,250 (high e: HK$200,000); 12 bottles of Haut-Brion 1989 sold for HK$147,000 (high e: HK$150,000); 12 bottles of Lafite Rothschild 1986 sold for HK$110,250 (high e: HK$110,000). • Acker Merrall, New York, 8-10 September: 12 bottles of Rousseau, Chambertin 1985 sold for $34,580 (high e: $40,000); six magnums of Roumier, Bonnes-Mares 2012 sold for $32,110 (high e: $30,000); six bottles of Pétrus 2000 sold for $29,640 (high e: $24,000); six bottles of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC), Richebourg 1999 sold for…

Decanter Fine wine price watch Below are the most recent merchant case prices (equivalent 12 x 750ml bottles) for wines that are actively traded among a global network of merchants on Liv-ex, the fine wine market. Liv-ex records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe. All prices are in GBP and exclude sales tax. The numbers in red indicate those prices which have changed since last month. The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The majority of the index consists of Bordeaux wines – a reflection of the overall market – although wines from Burgundy, the Rhône, Champagne and Italy are also…

De Bortoli, Noble One 1982 Riverina, New South Wales, Australia A legend because… Although Australia has a long tradition of sweet wine production (mostly fortified), Noble One, first made in 1982 and labelled as ‘Sauternes’ until 1990, was a new departure. In 2016 Jancis Robinson MW described it as ‘perhaps the greatest southern hemisphere challenge to Sauternes and Barsac’. Placed as a ringer among a few dozen 1983 Sauternes in a blind tasting in 1987, I was one of the tasters who, while puzzled by the wine, acclaimed its quality. It was, I noted, ‘worryingly mature for a 1983 Sauternes’, but its plump, unctuous character gave it immediate appeal. Looking back De Bortoli is a family winery, founded in 1928. In the early 1980s it was run by the late…