Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2016 i Decanter

Andrew Jefford ‘The acquisition of experience over decades cannot be duplicated’ ‘I WAS SCREAMING,’ remembered Janet Trefethen, ‘and then I woke up. My body had registered the earthquake before I was conscious. John was in North Carolina and I was home with my dog. The dog and I went outside and watched the swimming pool rock back and forth. I looked down and saw that my feet were all bloody – I’d run out of the house over broken glass. I got into the truck and drove down to the winery, still in my flimsy nightie. The gates were locked and I couldn’t open them. All the power was off. ‘I was worried about fire. The winery was in a sad shape – leaning four feet to the west in…

Zorzal – a timeline 2005 Gerardo Michelini buys land for vineyards 2007 About 30 Canadian investors become joint owners with the Michelini brothers 2008 First vintage made at Finca Sophenia. Named after ‘El Zorzal’, the tango singer Carlos Gardel, who died in a plane crash in 1935. Focus on Gualtallary, in the Uco Valley 2010 Climax 2008 won Best Malbec over US$50 at the Argentinian Wine Awards 2011 Chile’s Grupo Belén takes on worldwide distribution 2012 Started to work with concrete eggs 2014 Launches Eggo range: Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Malbec blend, fermented and aged in concrete eggs 2014 Zorzal now has 11 eggs and two amphorae…

Cooper’s picks: a mixed dozen from Itata Lucía Torres, Itata Profundo, Brutall Espumante NV 92 N/A UK alcalde@mranquil.cl Part of a fascinating sparkling project, Itata Profundo. This is a stunning sparkler, all about purity and precision. Delicately fine bubbles and aromas of rose petals and tangerine juice. Deliciously revitalising and refreshing. Drink 2016-2018 Alcohol 12% Viña de Neira, Bandido Neira, Cinsault Espumante Brut, Coelemu 2014 90 N/A UK www.vinosdeneira.cl Sparkling reds such as this are such a joy. Traditional method, light and delicate mousse, dry with soft mulberry and cranberry flavours. Gentle, well integrated bubbles and lively acidity. A perfect fizz for charcuterie. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 12% Pandolfi Price, Los Patricios Chardonnay 2013 95 £18.95-£19.50 Berry Bros & Rudd, Stone Vine & Sun Very serious barrel-fermented Chardonnay. Intense nose with…

Uruguayan style: Barnes’ picks Familia Deicas, Preludio Barrel Select Blanco, Juanicó, Canelones 2015 93 £19.08 Georges Barbier This barrel-fermented Chardonnay has always been a top Uruguayan white, and since Paul Hobbs joined the crew at Deicas it is even more show-stopping. Complex, balanced and mouthwatering. Drink 2016-2027 Alcohol 14% Bouza, Albariño, Las Violetas/Melilla, Canelones 2015 91 £18.95 Jeroboams, Laytons, Vin Cognito It was the whim of Galician descendant Elisa Bouza to plant Albariño, which is now Uruguay’s white variety par excellence. Complex, with a medley of buttery fruit and a long, fresh finish. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13.5% Carrau, 1752 Petit Manseng-Sauvignon Gris, Melilla, Canelones 2014 90 N/A UK www.bodegascarrau.com Winemaker Francisco Carrau wants to make Petit Manseng the yin to Tannat’s yang. An intense and rich wine with floral,…

HARVEST WORKERS Meet the pickers In their nameless thousands, and in the most demanding vineyard conditions, these unsung heroes strive long and hard to bring in the grapes that go into our favourite bottles. Julian Hitner celebrates their efforts Photograph: Char Abu Mansoor/Cephas ‘The only major quality we request of grape harvesters is simple: courage’ Philippe Guigal, E Guigal ‘They are extremely nice people, and we are grateful to have them’ Ernst Loosen, Dr Loosen IDYLLIC AND ARDUOUS, the autumn grape harvest is one of the most crucial, rhythmical roles in the wine-growing ballet; a meticulously choreographed picture, oftentimes of exceeding pastoral beauty, in which the fruits of the vine are cut, categorised and carted by myriad labourers throughout vast sections of Europe, the Americas, Oceania and elsewhere.…

From the cellar Quinta da Leda, Douro Valley Casa Ferreirinha is a name synonymous with heritage and innovation, from whose vineyards Fernando Nicolau de Almeida created in 1952 Barca Velha, the Douro’s first table wine, of which only 17 vintages have since been declared. Searching for a wine of the same pedigree with more regular availability, the unplanted 25ha estate of Quinta da Leda was bought in 1978. Casa Ferreirinha was acquired in turn by Sogrape Vinhos in 1987, Quinta da Leda made its first vintage in 1997 under chief winemaker Luís Sottomayor, who presented this and six subsequent vintages recently in London. The vines are Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Cão, the first dominating at the start, giving way to the second in later vintages. The…

The results Gripes with oak and regional identity marred what was otherwise a consistent and reliable line-up of simple, fruit-forward wines for early drinking. Tina Gellie reports USING A CAR analogy, Dirceu Vianna Jr MW compared these wines to an Audi. ‘Very reliable; I can recommend them with a degree of confidence,’ he said. ‘But I was hoping they’d make me feel like I’d driven a Lamborghini – be exhilarated and amazed; getting goosebumps.’ Fellow judges Phil Crozier and Patricio Tapia agreed, saying they felt underwhelmed due to the lack of subregional definition, and because Malbec as a variety doesn’t reflect its terroir well. ‘Argentina should focus on Malbec blends,’ added Vianna Jr. ‘Or red blends in general. They are its best wines. Many 100% Malbecs, as we saw here,…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Bodega Argento, Single Vineyard, Altamira 2014 94 PC 94 PT 94 DVJ 93 N/A UK www.bodegaargento.com An utter delight! White pepper and smoky graphite along with bonfire, forest fruits, dried herbs and lavender. A lovely earthy character with an inner electricity shining all the way through. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14% Casa de Uco, Los Chacayes 2013 94 PC 94 PT 92 DVJ 95 N/A UK www.casadeuco.com Purity of blackberry with seductive and graceful violets, chocolate, sweet spices and a peppery twang. This is complemented by beautiful savoury notes, smoky bonfire and coffee. A soft texture, tamed tannins and a long herbal finish. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 14% Finca Sophenia, Altosur Malbec, Gualtallary 2016 93 PC 94 PT 93 DVJ 92 £11.95 Ellis of Richmond Blackberries, cherries and spice…

My top three Patricio Tapia • Bodegas Escorihuela Gascón 1884, Malbec Biodinámico, Altamira 2015 A new member of Escorihuela’s portfolio, this wine comes from the El Cepillo area. It’s a pure, juicy and crunchy take on Malbec; a wine to drink by the pool in summer. 96 Drink 2016-2018 • Finca Sophenia, Altosur Malbec, Gualtallary 2016 The 2016 vintage is probably the best year in Argentina’s modern history, especially if you like crisp, refreshing wine like this, full of bright fruit, zippy acidity and tight, yet refined texture. 93 Drink 2016-2020 • Casa de Uco, Salvaje 2014 The Los Chacayes district in Tunuyán could be the next big star in the Uco Valley. Many great Malbecs are emerging from its chalky, stony soils. This is resrained and bright with luminous…

The judges Peter Richards MW Richards is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile and has published Wines of Chile and his own Chile Wine Brief. He is a guest presenter on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen and, together with his wife Susie Barrie MW, runs a wine school and wine festival in Winchester. Patricio Tapia Tapia is the DWWA Regional Chair for Argentina. He is the South American wine critic for Wine & Spirits, and also writes the annual Descorchados bilingual wine guide to Argentinian, Chilean and Uruguayan wine. Dirceu Vianna Jr MW Originally from Brazil, Vianna Jr (known as Junior) joined the wine trade in 1990 after moving to London. In 2008, he became the first South American male Master of Wine and is wine director for Enotria & Coe in…

My top three Patrico Tapia • Errázuriz, Pinot Noir, Aconcagua Costa 2015 On schist soils close to the Pacific Ocean, Francisco Baettig crafts refined and refreshing Pinots like this light yet firm example filled with red fruit and spices. Try it now or save it for a couple of years. 95 Drink 2017-2027 • Viña Tamaya, Reserva, Limarí 2015 The chalky soils of Limarí Valley, up in the north of Chile and towards the Pacific Ocean, tend to give tight and austere Pinot, but also brilliant and shiny examples. 94 Drink 2017-2020 • Montesecano, Refugio Pinot Noir, Casablanca 2014 From the town of Las Dichas, the biodynamic project of former top model photographer Julio Donoso has consistently made terroirdriven Pinot like this creamy, round and earthy red, rich in acidity…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s tastings director, Christelle Guibert, has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines at under £20 – all UK-available * denotes supermarket and high-street wines Bodegas Muga, Conde de Haro Brut Cava, Rioja, Spain 2013 91 £11.95 The Wine Society Muga is one of few produders allowed to make Cava outside its home region of Catalonia. This is mostly Viura with a dash of Malvasia and it is made just like Champagne with two years’ ageing on its lees. Full of bread, toasted almond and apples. Lovely texture, very expressive and full of personality. Alc 12.5% Bulgarini, Lugana, Lombardy, Italy 2015 91 £12 The Fine Wine Co,…

MY PERFECT DAY IN TAIN L’HERMITAGE & TOURNON Photographs: Per Karlsson - BKWine.com/Alamy Stock Photo; Mick Rock/Cephas MORNING After a relaxing Friday night in the elegant comforts of Hôtel de la Villeon* (www.hoteldelavilleon.com) in Tournon, pay a visit to the Saturday food market to pick up a few local delicacies. Wander down to the riverfront via La Grande Rue and stop to browse in Les Caves des Vignerons de l’Ardèche (58 quai Farconnet, +33 4 75 08 08 29) and Cave Balthazar (www.labalthazar.fr). LUNCH Cross the river to Tain via the passerelle footbridge for a light lunch at Vineum. Its terrace overlooks the hill of Hermitage; there’s no better place to treat yourself to a mature vintage of La Chapelle. Pick up some Hermitage to take home from the Nicolas…

John Stimpfig ‘This year, three Brazilian wines struck DWWA Gold’ WHEN BRANDON THOMAS’ three-act farce, Charley’s Aunt, hit the boards in 1892, it wasn’t expected to make box-office history. But that’s what it went on to do, with an initial London run of 1,466 consecutive shows. Having seen it as a child, I remember little of the wafer-thin plot. But I do vividly recall its most famous line, uttered by Babbs Babberley: ‘I’m Charley’s Aunt from Brazil – where the nuts come from.’ Thanks to the spotlight of the Rio Olympics, Brazil is now much more widely known. Equally, its burgeoning wine sector deserves greater respect and attention thanks to the recent dramatic progress made at our annual ‘Wine Olympics’, the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA). Hitherto, Brazil had only…

Around the wine world Wine thieves target Barolo producers A spate of wine thefts in Piedmont – including one to an estimated value of €200,000 – has prompted fears that an organised gang may be operating in the area. The latest raids include one where several masked burglars broke into the Cordero di Montezemolo winery in La Morra on 25 June, making off with about 3,000 bottles of 2012 Barolo and 2013 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Funtanì, with a market value of about €200,000. Just over two weeks later, a similar burglary took place at the Armando Parusso winery in Monforte d’Alba. Wine was also stolen from Fontanafredda in December 2015. Alberto Cordero di Montezemolo, who thinks the thefts may be connected, said six or seven burglars took part in the…

Hugh Johnson ‘Time is the elephant in the tasting room, and in the cellar’ EVERYONE’S ALWAYS BACK on the bus before I’ve even read the noticeboard. Perhaps I shouldn’t pay so much attention to the typography, the history part, the funny English or the smells from the kitchen. Yes, my mind wanders, but who will remember most about where we’ve been? That, at least, or something like it, is always my excuse for holding up the tour, infuriating my hostess when everyone else has finished, and saying, ‘Give me another few minutes’ at the end of a tasting. ‘Hugh, you’re not still on the Côte de Beaune, are you?’ It’s not that I’m more conscientious. I’m just more curious, I suppose. That’s the trouble – or my trouble –with trade…

ARGENTINA Argentina’s top 10 terroirs The past 20 years has seen this country’s producers go to extremes to make the most expressive wines from their expansive, dry, desert-like wine regions. Tim Atkin MW names the regions and sub-regions you need to know, and recommends 20 wines to try Illustration: Abi Daker  WITH 226,388 HECTARES of vineyards covering a vast area from 22° to 42° latitude, Argentina is the fifth largest wine-producing country in the world. It’s not often commented upon, but this span is almost as long as Chile’s – from Jujuy in the north, close to Bolivia, to Chubut in southern Patagonia. ‘Growing grapes in Argentina is easy. Growing fine wine grapes is harder. That is Argentina’s challenge’ Argentina has one of the hottest, driest and most continental climates…

RUTINI WINES QUALITY ALONGSIDE CONTINUOUS INNIVATION ‘A PILLAR OF THE CONTEMPORARY ARGENTINIAN WINE REVOLUTION, MARIANO’S WINES REFLECT THE MAN - GENEROUS, BOLD, CLASSY AND EXUBERANT’ ‘RUTINI IS TODAY ONE OF THE MAIN WINERIES TO DIS DISCOVER THE ADVANCE OF THE ARGENTINIAN WINE INDUSTRY’ ‘MARIANO DI PAOLA IS ONE OF THE MOST EXPERIENCED AND KNOWLEDGEABLE WINEMAKERS IN ARGENTINA. I HAVE ENORMOUS RESPECT FOR WHAT HE HAS ACHIEVED AT RUTINI’  If one phrase could sum up the 131-year history of Rutini Wines in Argentina, it would be ‘quality alongside continuous innovation’. From the time that Felipe Rutini arrived from Italy to the opening of our latest winery in Gualtallary in the Uco Valley, Rutini has constantly reimagined what Argentinian wine can be. And it all started with one man.…

Stimpfig’s top 10 to try Errázuriz, Single Vineyard Syrah, Aconcagua Costa, Aconcagua Valley 2014 94 £14.95-£16.20 Hailsham Cellars, Hatch Mansfield, Hawkshead, Pavilion Wine, Slurp, The Oxford Wine Co, Whalley Wine Shop, The Vinorium One of Chile’s best new-wave coastal Syrahs, from the Manzanar vineyard just 11km from the Pacific. Intense violet and incense aroma. The palate has fine-grained tannins underscored by zippy acidity, raspberry and blackberry fruit with a grind of black pepper. Spends 14 months in used oak barrels. Lovely juicy clarity and fruit expression. Drink 2016-2021 Alc 13% Ventisquero, Pangea Syrah, Apalta, Colchagua Valley 2011 94 £23.50-£25 Christopher Keiler, Cru World Wine, Hawkshead, Slurp Made by former Penfold’s Grange winemaker John Duval, this is a class act. Aromatic violets, blueberries and raspberries lead to a rich, hedonistic, moreish…

Who’s who? Photograph: Amanda Barnes Gerardo Michelini, the eldest (pictured below, centre). He worked in Banca March in Mallorca before coming back to buy the land to start Zorzal. His own project is Gen del Alma, made with his winemaker wife Andrea Muffatto (see p33). Their son Manuel, 20, is the first of the next generation to get into the wine business. He has gained plenty of attention for Plop, a fashionably pale and crunchy Cabernet Franc rosé. He also has a red, and more recently a Viognier, with the same signature lower alcohol and lighter, fresher style. Matías Michelini, winemaker, also much in demand as a consultant (pictured below, right). Worked with influential viticulturist/ winemaker Edy del Popolo at Doña Paula (see p50). Now consulting for Finca Sophenia, Bodegas…

ITATA Regional profile Itata Home to some of the world’s oldest vines, Itata is Chile with a difference, thanks to producers embracing lighter, more elegant wines. Alistair Cooper travelled to this cradle of viniculture to discover why it’s a region that needs to be safeguarded WE ARE DRIVING up a steep, dusty road, flanked by gnarled old bush vines, amid rolling hills and pine plantations. My guide for the day, consultant winemaker Demy Olmos Soto, points to the distance, and casually announces: ‘We found a plot of 150-year-old Cabernet vines over there the other day – nestled among some beautiful old Malbec and Cinsault.’ We pull over to have a look at some País vines. These, I am told, are closer to 250 years old, dry-farmed and planted on…

Cava de Paraje Calificado A new exciting age for premium Cava At the beginning there was Champagne. The wealthiest and most powerful people in Europe and beyond adopted it as their beverage for celebration. Many other less fortunate drinkers also wanted to celebrate with Champagne but often they could not afford the expense. This was a great business opportunity. Smart people in Russia, Germany, Spain, Italy and other countries set up businesses to produce local cheaper imitations of Champagne. Some thought that the key factors for success were bubbles and residual sugar. So they set out to make sparkling wines at the minimum cost, buying base wines and pumping them full of sugar and carbon dioxide. Others went one step up in the quality ladder, by mirroring Champagne. In 1872,…

Spurrier’s World Decanter’s globetrotting consultant editor gives us a round-up of recent tastings, his views on current issues in the wine world and top bottles to drink or keep ‘Inscribed over the entrance was ‘Qui Bon Vin Boit, Dieu Voit’ (God sees those who drink good wine)’ Back to the future A conference in Austria and a tasting in Spain in early June reminded me of how much one can learn from the past and how positively this should influence the future. The Cistercian monastery at Schloss Gobelsburg in Kamptal, Austria was founded in 1137. Inscribed over the entrance are the words ‘Qui Bon Vin Boit, Dieu Voit’ (God sees those who drink good wine), which was an encouraging guide to the two-day symposium on the 19th century’s winemaking styles…

For the cellar Ancestral Catalan varieties from Torres Every other year the Torres family invites me to Penedès to taste through its ever-expanding range of wines. New this time were Jean Leon’s, Vinya Gigi Chardonnays that showed bright, yellow summer fruits and a stony/ mineral finish, and a 2013 sparkling which will be bottled with a low (if any) dosage after 30 months on lees, whose florality and firm elegance is sure to impress. Quantities will be enough to go round, which is not yet the case for the innovative plantings of ancestral Catalan grapes that Torres has rescued from extinction. In the late 1980s, Miguel Torres Sr (Decanter’s Man of the Year 2002) began to send out calls across the region for any unidentified varieties. From more than 50…

The judges Phil Crozier Crozier is wine director for the Gaucho restaurant group, responsible for the wine list, including its 200 Argentinian wines. He also runs the Gaucho-owned Malbec vineyard in Lulunta in Mendoza, which produces Viña Patricia. Crozier is also involved with the production of the Corte G range of wines. Patricio Tapia Tapia is the DWWA Regional Chair for Argentina. He is the South American wine critic for Wine & Spirits, and also writes the annual Descorchados bilingual wine guide to Argentinian, Chilean and Uruguayan wine. Dirceu Vianna Jr MW Originally from Brazil, Vianna Jr (known as Junior) joined the wine trade in 1990 after moving to London. In 2008, he became the first South American male Master of Wine and is wine director for Enotria & Coe…

My top three Dirceu Vianna Jr MW • Bodegas Escorihuela Gascón 1884, Malbec Biodinámico, Altamira 2015 Spanish immigrant Miguel Escorihuela Gascón bought his first vines in 1884, aged 19. A generous philanthropist, he was considered a local hero by the end of his life. This wine is as bountiful as its founder: an amazing explosion of fruit on the palate. 96 Drink 2016-2018 • Finca Sophenia, Altosur Malbec, Gualtallary 2016 High-altitude, low-yielding vineyards on sandy and rocky soil with excellent natural drainage and in the hands of a talented winemaking team. All makes for a graceful, fresh and stylish Malbec. 92 Drink 2016-2020 • Zuccardi, Apelación, Vista Flores 2014 The Zuccardi family is known for its humility, hard work and vison, and this elegant and bright Malbec shows exceptional purity,…

Outstanding 95–97pts Chono, Pinot Noir, Casablanca 2013 Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Peter Richards MW 95 Patricio Tapia 95 Dirceu Vianna Jr MW 95 £11.95 Ellis Wines, Vin Cognito Chono was founded by Alvaro Espinoza in 2004 and was later sold to Colchagua-based producer Sútil, in 2011. The wines focus on specific terroirs for each variety. Winemaker Oscar Salas has been making Pinot Noir for more than a decade, and prioritises gentle extraction and a bit of barrel ageing, ‘to let the terroir shine but with a multi-faceted profile’. A lifted, pure and focused mid-weight style with fine tannins. Peter Richards MW Elegant, with light baked herbs and leafy notes, plus dried and fresh red fruit. Fine abundant tannin and classy maturity. Very focused, pure and savoury.…

My top three Peter Richards MW • Errázuriz, Pinot Noir, Aconcagua Costa 2015 Errázuriz is in the front rank of the Chilean Pinot charge. Winemaker Francisco Baettig and team are dutifully studying the terroir of this coastal estate, aiming to make world-class Pinot. They are succeeding. 96 Drink 2017-2027 • Undurraga, TH Pinot Noir, San Antonio, Leyda 2013 Rafael Urrejola made his name crafting elegant Pinots at Viña Leyda. Now he works his magic at Maipo stalwart Undurraga and the TH (Terroir Hunter) line is his calling card. This elegant, self-assured wine sees him revisiting his old stomping ground to brilliant effect. 95 Drink 2016-2020 • Montsecano, Refugio Pinot Noir, Casablanca 2014 Not my top mark but it merits singling out for its joyful, vivid expression. Slightly rustic – not…

Expert summary: Peter Richards MW Consistency and value in Chilean Pinot Noir is as strong as ever, but the real excitement is the broad regional diversity from the far north to the deep south ‘Chile is now starting to deliver on its long-stated potential for world-class Pinot’ DECANTER’S LAST CHILEAN Pinot Noir panel tasting (in 2013) yielded just one Outstanding wine and a judges’ verdict that more wines were needed to populate ‘the pulse-quickening realms of the upper result echelons’. Gratifyingly, that is exactly what happened here – proof that Chile has moved up a gear in its Pinot performance. Over the years, Chilean Pinot Noir has won many fans for its consistency and value for money. On the evidence of this tasting, these attributes are more solid than ever.…

UK stockists Where to find the wines featured in Decanter this month Abasto, London (www.abasto.co.uk) Abbey Wines, Melrose (01896 823 244) ABS Wine (www.abswineagencies.co.uk) Addison Wines, London SW11 (www.addisonwines.com) Adnams, Southwold (www.adnams.co.uk) AG Wines, London (www.agwines.com) Aged in Oak Wine Co (www.agedinoak.co.uk) Aitken Wines, Dundee (www.aitkenwines.com) Ake & Humphris (www.akeandhumphris.co.uk) All About Wine (www.allaboutwine.co.uk) Alliance Wine, Ayrshire (www.alliancewine.co.uk) Amathus, London (www.amathusdrinks.com) Amazon UK (www.amazon.co.uk) Amps, Northants (www.ampsfinewines.co.uk) Andrew Darwin, Herts (www.adwines.co.uk) Anglia Wines, Cambs (www.angliawines.co.uk) Anthony Byrne, Cambs (www.abfw.co.uk) AP Harvey, Coventry (www.ap-harvey-wines.co.uk) Armit Wines, London W11 (www.armit.co.uk) Asda (www.asda.co.uk) Asda Wine Shop (www.direct.asda.com) Astrum Wine Cellars, Surrey (www.astrumwinecellars.com) Averys, Bristol (www.averys.com) Bablake, Coventry (www.bablakewines.co.uk) Bacchanalia, Cambridge (www.winegod.co.uk) Bacchus Les Vignobles, London (020 8675 9007) Bacchus Wine, Bucks (www.bacchus.co.uk) Bancroft, London SE1 (www.bancroftwines.com) Barrica Wines, Lancs (www.barricawines.co.uk) Barwell & Jones,…

Grape varieties with Julia Harding MW Mondeuse Noire A classic case of misidentification in California resulted in the confusion of this variety from eastern France with Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso from the Karst plateau that straddles the Italo-Slovenian border. The two varieties were eventually distinguished by DNA profiling at the start of this century, so it seems entirely appropriate that it is geneticist Carole Meredith, known for her pioneering work on DNA profiling of grapevines at University of California Davis, who now makes a rare and excellent example of Mondeuse Noire in the Napa Valley’s Mount Veeder AVA, under the Lagier Meredith label. Nevertheless, Mondeuse Noir (no relation of Mondeuse Blanche) is more common in Savoie, where there are about 300ha. It was once widely planted on the shores of…

Hammer highlights • Christie’s, London, 9 June: 12 bottles of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC), Romanée Conti 1988 sold for £105,750 (high estimate: £120,000); 29 magnums of Vega Sicilia, Unico 1960-2003 sold for £28,200 (high e: £15,000); 12 bottles of Pétrus 1996 sold for £15,275 (high e: £16,000); 12 bottles of Bruno Giacosa, Collina Rionda di Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo 1978/1982 sold for £10,575 (high e: £5,000); one bottle of JCA & C Terrantez 1715 sold for £9,998 (high e: £6,000); 11 bottles of Mouton Rothschild 1982 sold for £8,225 (high e: £9,000). • Christie’s, New York, 10 June: 27 bottles of Pétrus 1964-2010 sold for $46,550 (high e: $40,000); 12 bottles of DRC, Richebourg 1990 sold for $39,200 (high e: $35,000); three bottles of DRC, Romanée-Conti 2009 sold for $36,750…

Champagne crop down, prices to rise Price rises in Champagne are predicted to continue, following what has been described as the most complicated vintage in 60 years, in 2016. Frost, rot and a mildew ‘epidemic’ have restricted vineyard yields, and an estimated crop of 7,200kg/hectare will be well below the 10,700kg/ha limit agreed by the CIVC governing body in July. As a result, many Champagne houses and growers will be forced to delve into their reserve stocks to make up the shortfall in wine this year, with production in the southern Aube area particularly severely hit. Union des Maisons de Champagne (UMC) president Jean-Marie Barillère admits 2016 has been ‘challenging’, but adds that average reserve levels in the region are high – enough to cover producers’ needs ‘without any problem’,…

In brief Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, head of the Taittinger Champagne house, has reportedly dropped his bid to become French President, just days after announcing his candidacy in an interview with Champagne’s L’Union newspaper. Personal matters have forced Taittinger to pull out of next year’s election. A film charting the rise, deceit and disintegration of imprisoned wine fraudster Rudy Kurniawan is due for release in the UK this month. Sour Grapes uses unseen footage, images and interviews to show how Kurniawan– aka Dr Conti – fooled the fine wine world and ran a prolific counterfeiting scheme from his Los Angeles home. Read a review on www.decanter.com/wine-films A lightweight version of the Coravin wine preservation gadget has been launched to cater for ‘millennial’ consumers. Costing £199, the new Coravin Model One has a…

Letter of the month Ups and downs OUR SECOND HOME in Entre-deux-Mers is a very modest house requiring far more work than I ever envisaged. Many times I’ve asked myself, why did we buy? Negative thoughts usually revolve around the expense, the long journey from Scotland, the boiler not working on arrival… But moments like now, where I sit in the garden with a glass of claret reading Decanter , the sun slipping behind the vines, always convince me that we did the right thing. Similarly, I’ve subscribed to Decanter for years, with occasional lapses. I’ve often wondered, do I need to read another review of a £200 wine I know I’ll never taste? Of a restaurant I’ll never visit? Your August issue reassured me. From the ever-terrific Andrew Jefford…

Celebrating 65 years of family passion Aresti Chile Wine is a prestigious family run winery with a rich history of producing beautiful wines. In 1951 the Curicó valley was chosen by Vicente Aresti Astica as the ideal place to plant the first vines and 65 years later his passion is still alive, passed from one generation to the next. Today it is managed by two sisters, Ana Maria and Begoña – the daughters of Vicente. Located on the southern end of the Americas, Chilean vineyards grow in a Mediterranean climate and healthy, powerful alluvial soils which offer the ideal conditions for growing superior wine. The Aresti winery is the only one stretching, at the Curicó Valley, from the Andes all the way to the Pacific Ocean, including the highest vineyard…

Gualtallary gurus: six of the best from Zorzal Zorzal, Eggo Blanc de Cal 2014 91 POA Barwell & Jones Made in a concrete egg, this is not at all your run-of-the-mill Sauvignon Blanc! It’s not especially aromatic, but in the mouth there’s pink grapefruit, chalk, a dart of fresh lemon and a lick of lemon curd. Lovely, with a very long finish. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 12.2% Zorzal , Eggo Tinto de Tiza 95 £18.85-£21.99 Field & Fawcett, House of Townend Look no oak – and what a delight! Malbec with a pinch of Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon, co-fermented and aged in a concrete egg. Very honest wine: fresh, with fine grain of tannin and pure dark fruits. Tiza is Spanish for chalk, referring to that chalky minerality. Drink 2016-2022 Alc…

Six producers to watch De Martino In 2010, De Martino’s respected winemaker Marcelo Retamal started investigating Itata. This coincided with a concerted stylistic shift towards lighter, fresher, less extracted wines. The Viejas Tinajas range features a stunning skin-contact Muscat (see p72) and vibrant, refreshing and earthy Cinsault. The Gallardía range includes a pale Provençal-esque rosé, and a superb field blend of Muscat and Corinto (Chasselas) from De Martino’s 19.5ha property in Guarilihue. Louis-Antoine Luyt French national Luyt is a protégé of the late Marcel Lapierre, the natural wine guru from Beaujolais. Luyt makes wines in both Maule and Itata, and has led the revival of the fortunes of País. As well as making his own wines in Itata, such as the fantastic Pipeño, Coelemu País 2014 (pictured left), Luyt…

A snapshot of Brazil: six wines to try Cave Geisse, Brut, Serra Gaúcha, 2012 90 £20 Go Brazil A 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir with an attractive nose of peach, blossom and brioche. Round and persistent, with fine depth. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 12.5% Era dos Ventos, Peverella, Serra Gaúcha 2013 94 N/A UK www.eradosventos.com.br An orange wine, made from the rare Trentino variety Peverella. Rich, savoury, honeyed nose. Old vines and 12 days maceration give a round palate with grip and depth. A great food wine with real personality. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 11.7% Casa Valduga, Leopoldina Chardonnay, Vale dos Vinhedos, Serra Gaúcha 2013 92 £17 Berkmann Wine Cellars, Luigi’s Delicatessen, Camber Wines, Topsham Wines Well-integrated French and Romanian oak. Modern in style, but quietly reserved. Crisp green apple and lime…

Transforming Tannat Tannat made its way to Uruguay in 1870 when Catalan immigrant Pascual Harriague planted 200ha in Salto. Since then it has become the country’s flagship. Known for its marked acidity and tannin, it is said to be the ‘healthiest’ wine variety in the world with the highest source of procyanidins (good for the arteries) and a polyphenol content twice that of Cabernet Sauvignon. But good health doesn’t need to be hard to swallow, and Uruguayan winemakers have been focusing on taming Tannat in recent years. You’ll find a handful of Tannat blends on the market that offer a new dimension to the traditional variety. Alto de la Ballena blends Tannat with Viognier; Marichal brings Pinot Noir into the mix; De Lucca adds Sangiovese and Nero d’Avola; and Marselan…

My 10 top Barolo & Barbaresco producers Stephen Brook gives a personal view of the charms and complexities of Piedmont’s terroirs and wines, both traditional and more modern in style, and recommends two great wines from each of his 10 favourite producers DURING 30 YEARS of visiting the Barolo area, I’ve witnessed the shift from old-school wines to more modern styles. My early headquarters was a hotel in Monforte – essentially a bar with rooms – and in the morning I’d grab an espresso and find the likes of Domenico Clerico doing the same. He and others were then the young guns of Barolo, and today they’re the elder statesmen. Even after three decades I feel I’m just scratching the surface here: there are too many crus and producers to…

Steven recommends... GD Vajra, Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy 2015 90 £13.95-£14.99 Highbury Vintners, Liberty Wines, Noel Young From a single, south-facing, steep vineyard at 420m-470m, vinified and aged in stainless steel before an early bottling to retain the natural effervescence, this is adorably pretty and totally irresistible. Drink 2016-2017 Alcohol 5.5% Deltetto, San Michele Roero Arneis, Piedmont, Italy 2015 92 £16.99 Liberty Wines, No2 Pound St From a single vineyard planted in 1975, 30% fermented and aged in new French oak, 70% in cement and stainless steel, this has more depth and florality than a typical Arneis. A lovely, lively and expressive wine. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13.5% Neudorf, Chardonnay, Nelson, New Zealand 2014 92 £19.50 The Wine Society, WoodWinters The top producer from Nelson, famous for its Pinot Gris, Neudorf…

Outstanding 95–97pts Bodegas Escorihuela Gascón 1884, Malbec Biodinámico, Altamira 2015 Decanter average score: 96/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Phil Crozier 96 Patricio Tapia 96 Dirceu Vianna Jr 96 £10.25 All About Wine Founded in 1884, Escorihuela Gascón is one of the oldest wineries in Mendoza. Part of the Catena Group, its wines have been under the shadow of other brands in the group such as Catena, Alamos or Rutini. This biodynamic wine is a bright, brilliant take on Altamira and should put the winery back in the spotlight. Phil Crozier A lovely expression of Altamira: herbal, mineral and fresh aromas with exciting energy and ripe red berries on the palate. Patricio Tapia This has all the elegance and strength of Altamira. Brilliant red fruit flavours on top of spices and…

My top three Phil Crozier • Bodegas Escorihuela Gascón 1884, Malbec Biodinámico, Altamira 2015 I loved this wine. While it had lots of tension and energy, it was also very elegant, and a very pure expression of Altamira. The herbal notes and the minty freshness combine beautifully with the fruit. 96 Drink 2016-2018 • Bodega Teho, Tomal Malbec, La Consulta 2014 The blueberry fruit, richness and opulence that this region brings to Malbec is wonderful. The perfume is so generous, with wild violets and roses and seamless tannins on the finish. 95 Drink 2016-2020 • Casa de Uco, Los Chacayes 2013 This boasts lots of spicy, coffee and mocha notes, with a touch of smoky bonfire – seemingly one of the traits of this new region. An assault on the…

Expert summary: Patricio Tapia Defined sub-regional styles are still a work in progress in the Uco Valley but the momentum is there, along with Malbecs whose fresh fruit is not dulled by excess oak ‘Every time we tasted a wine that spoke of its place we were buoyant! However, there were very few’ AS WELL AS confirming the intrinsic quality of Uco Valley Malbec, this tasting posed the question of sub-regional variation. Is the diversity of soils, altitudes and topographies having a real effect on the character of wine here? The answer is yes, but with reservations. It is obvious that there were many differences between the 150 Malbecs that we tasted, and also some similarities – maybe it’s better to call them trends. Generally speaking, the lower (or better)…

The results A very impressive performance all round, said our tasters – a line-up of wines to truly excite Pinot lovers that showcased stylistic diversity. John Stimpfig reports THE LAST TIME this august and experienced panel of experts assembled at Decanter HQ to taste Chilean Pinot Noir was in 2013. That tasting was something of a landmark, with all three praising its progression. So how would this line-up of cool climate, mostly coastal Pinot Noirs measure up? Impressively, they were just as positive. In fact, if anything, they were even more enthusiastic this time around. As Patricio Tapia pointed out: ‘Based on this tasting, a number of producers are successfully moving out of the experimental into a more mature phase.’ DWWA Regional Chair for Chile, Peter Richards MW endorsed this…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Montsecano, Refugio Pinot Noir, Casablanca 2014 93 PR 94 PT 93 DVJ 93 £19.95 Fields Morris & Verdin, Highbury Vintners, Selfridges Leaping aromatics! Amazing intensity and concentration of red fruits, fine herbs, wet earth, leather and pea pods. Engaging rustic wild abandon. Fab! Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14% Viña Tamaya, Reserva, Limari 2015 93 PR 94 PT 94 DVJ 92 £10.99 Fine Wines Direct Aromas are a little restrained, but this has juicy red fruit acidity, baked plum and redcurrant notes and slight earthy and mineral hints. A sturdy wine that is also light and delightful with great cogency and refreshment value. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 12% Undurraga, TH Pinot Noir, San Antonio, Leyda 2013 92 PR 95 PT 90 DVJ 90 £12.50-£18.99 Eurowines, H2Vin, Ocado, The Wine Society,…

My top three Dirceu Vianna Jr MW • De Martino, Legado Pinot Noir, Limari 2015 Dynamic and visionary producer farming organically and using minimal intervention in the winery. Understated but with impressive purity, concentration and structure. Fresh and silky finish. 95 Drink 2017-2022 • Montsecano, Refugio Pinot Noir, Casablanca 2014 Granite soils older than those of the Andes and very low yields produce exquisite fruit. Hands-off winemaking enables sublime expression of its terroir. The intensity leaps from the glass. 93 Drink 2016-2018 • Undurraga, TH Pinot Noir, San Antonio, Leyda 2013 The Terroir Hunter range was born in 2006, aiming to combine the best climate and soil to the ideal grape variety. This wine is the fruit of this philosophy – a benchmark for South American Pinot Noir. 90 Drink…

EXPERT’S CHOICE South American sparkling With quality improving in leaps and bounds across Chile, Argentina and Brazil, you’ll find fizz with plentiful fruit and reliable value at all price points, says Patricio Tapia ‘Time on lees has been extending, leading to greater complexity and finer textures’ THE SPARKLING WINE boom has taken hold in South America, as it has in almost all regions of the New World. From being a marginal player with just a few drops on the market, it has become the new hero. Argentina, for example, produced about 22 million litres of sparkling wine in 2005; fast-forward a decade and that figure topped 46 million litres. Across the Andes, there are no official figures available for production of Chilean sparkling wine, but you can discern a similar…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge Email: ask@decanter.com. Post: The Editor, Decanter , Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London SE1 0SU, UK This month’s experts Christian Seely has been managing director of Quinta do Noval since 1993 Andy Howard MW is a regular contributor to Decanter and was a supermarket wine buyer for 30 years Lenka Sedlackova MW is sales and marketing manager for Fields Morris & Verdin, the UK importer for Château de Beaucastel ‘You will pay more for the pleasure of the larger size – but it’s worth it!’ Mystery Port bottle In the mid-1990s we bought several bottles of Quinta do Noval, Nacional 1986 from a famous auction house in San Francisco. Several other vintages…

Tasting notes decoded Tertiary aromas Where primary aromas and flavours come from the grape and secondary ones from the winemaking, tertiary notes are a product of maturation. This can come from deliberate oxidation (where typical aromas and flavours include chocolate or coffee), as well as fruit development and bottle age. Maturation creates fruit development, and enhances the concentration of fruit notes – such as dried apricot in white wines or figs in reds. Bottle age also affects aromas and flavours too – leather, tobacco and tar notes are difficult to achieve in wine without it. (Tasting note from p117)…

Collector’s corner Graham’s 1966 Vintage Port £225 Fine wine merchants in UK, Sweden, Denmark, Netherlands, Portugal, UAE The last 104 bottles from the Symington family’s private stock; 40 of these are destined for UK restaurants and hotels, including The Goring. Veuve Clicquot, Champagne 2008 £54.99 Jeroboams, Hedonism, Selfridges Dominique Demarville’s first vintage for Clicquot signals its return to oak, with large casks used on 5% of the blend. As ever, Pinot Noir (60%) dominates. Hine, Bonneuil, Cognac 2006 £80 Hedonism, Master of Malt, The Whisky Exchange Second release of this single-vineyard Cognac, sourced from Hine’s own estate above the Colinaud Valley. Fruity and rounded, only 19 casks were made.…

In brief Wine investment is a ‘post-Brexit safe haven’ Wine investment is being described as a ‘safe haven’ following the UK’s vote to leave the European Union, based on a report by fine wine investment business Cult Wines. Out of a survey of 101 wealth managers and independent financial advisors, only 27% said they expected the appetite for wine investment to increase over the next year. However 48% said the main reason for any increase was the fact that fine wine acts as a ‘diversifier’ to mainstream investment assets, such as equities and bonds. Cult Wines, which opened an office in Hong Kong earlier this year, recorded a 106% increase in trade sales in the week following Brexit – compared to the pre-referendum average figure in June – boosted by…

Fine wine price watch Below are the most recent merchant case prices (equivalent 12 x 750ml bottles) for wines that are actively traded among a global network of merchants on Liv-ex, the fine wine market. Liv-ex records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe. All prices are in GBP and exclude sales tax. The numbers in red indicate those prices which have changed since last month. The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The majority of the index consists of Bordeaux wines – a reflection of the overall market – although wines from Burgundy, the Rhône, Champagne and Italy are also included.…

JJ Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 1971 Mosel, Germany A legend because… A dream combination of vintage, variety, vineyard and winemaker resulted in this great wine, one of a set of magnificent expressions of the Prüm holdings in Wehlener Sonnenuhr, from Kabinett to Trockenbeerenauslese. All were wonderful, but this top Auslese struck a particular chord with all who tasted it. The hallmark of the JJ Prüm wines is a filigree delicacy wedded to a firm acidic and slate-derived mineral structure. Looking back Dr Manfred Prüm took over from his recently deceased father in 1969, so this was the first outstanding vintage he oversaw. Although he has always been the public face of the estate, until his daughter Katharina took over, he was assisted by his barely visible brother Wolfgang…