Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2016 i Decanter

Top reds to try Domaine La Madura, Classic, St-Chinian AOC 2012 95 £13.90-£14.50 Flying Corkscrew, Le Bon Vin One of the best St-Chinian Syrah-based blends. Incredibly perfumed, layered with smoke, spice and dark cherries. Firm tannins and a long savoury finish. Drink 2017-2024 Alc 14% Anne Gros et Jean Paul Tollot, Les Carrétals, Minervois AOC 2012 94 £29.99 Albion Wine Shippers, Asset Wines, Domaine Direct Based on a tiny parcel of Carignan planted in 1909. Gamey red and black berries, with integrated oak spice and zingy acidity. Burgundian elegance allied to Minervois character. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 14% Clos de Gravillas, Lo Vielh, Côtes du Brian IGP 2013 94 £21.99 Hawkshead, Les Caves de Pyrène, No2 Pound St, PM Wine Cellars, Slurp Attractive palate is redolent of mulberries, blood oranges and…

Top whites to try Domaine Delmas, Cuvées des Sacres, Crémant de Limoux AOC 2011 89 N/A UK www.blanquettedelmas-bio.com Chardonnay (60%), Pinot Noir, Chenin Blanc and Mauzac from selected parcels. Only the first press (cuvée) used. Fine and persistent bead. Citrus and apple notes. Real purity of expression. The palate is dry, long and refreshing. Drink 2016-2017 Alcohol 12.5% Château des Estanilles, L’Impertinent, Faugères AOC 2015 91 £13.75 (2014) Yapp Bros A blend of Marsanne and Roussanne with a touch of Viognier. Complex floral and herbal aromatics and flavours. Palate is round, supple and balanced. Minerally tension provides a long, persistent finish. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13% Domaine d’Aupilhac, Les Cocalières, Languedoc AOC 2014 91 £17 (2011) Dulwich Vintners A blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Vermentino grown at an altitude…

Editor's Photograph: Céline et Gilles Deschamps/CIVL Quite simply, the Languedoc is the one region that excites me the most in the whole of France, for the simple reason that there is always something new to discover. The region never stands still and the variety is enormous. You can find just about every style of wine that you might wish for, through the entire flavour gambit of red, white and rosé, sweet and dry, still and sparkling, table wine and fortified wines. The region covers a vast swathe of vineyards stretching from Corbières in the south to the Rhône Valley in the west, and within that area there are several wines that are establishing an exciting identity for themselves. New appellations have been created – La Clape with vineyards on the…

John Stimpfig ‘Each remained loyal to their respective domaines and regions’ THE RECENT DEATHS, in distressingly rapid succession, of Henri Bonneau, Paul Pontallier, Louis Latour and Etienne Hugel have been heavy blows to bear far beyond the four regions they represented with such élan and distinction. Their collective contribution to the Rhône, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Alsace was nothing short of monumental – between them accounting for well over 100 vintages. Individually, each remained loyal to their respective domaines and regions, deliberately never straying far from the terroirs they loved and cherished. Pontallier might have made wine in Chile and consulted elsewhere. Latour also ventured into the Ardèche and the Var. But everyone knew where their hearts belonged. When I last interviewed Pontallier just after his 30th Bordeaux harvest in 2014,…

Around the wine world Photograph: Raymond Roig/AFP/Getty Images Diplomatic row sparked by wine tanker hijack FRANCE A diplomatic row has broken out over an attack by French farmers on Spanish wine tankers, in which 70,000 litres of wine were lost. The Spanish Foreign Ministry censured the attacks, summoning the French Ambassador and issuing an emphatic statement to Paris and the European Commission. Accusing France of violating EU rules, it said: ‘Spain has already officially passed on its protest to the French authorities, and urges them to adopt all appropriate measures to guarantee, with absolute security, the free movement of people and goods, one of the basic principles of the European Union.’ The incident, during which wine was sent gushing across a motorway less than 16km from the Spanish border (pictured),…

Letter of the month Perpetuating a myth NEW UK TELEVISION series The Wine Show suffers from a problem that afflicts all media outlets covering the wine industry: the realities of global wine production are poorly represented. The vast majority of wine is not produced in million-pound wineries with stunning vistas and endless rows of pristine barrels. In reality, a lot of wine is made in industrial estates from bought-in fruit, on a large scale. It is still made by passionate people who work tirelessly to make the best wine possible, but not always in a showpiece cellar. After making wine all over the world for 10 years, I am now making my own wine in Spain. I think my wine is excellent, but the public perception is often that, because…

Hugh Johnson ‘I wasn’t going to throw 60 years of writing away. But who’d want it?’ IT DOES PILE up. Sixty years of writing and the attic is full. So I found when we came to move house three years ago. There were old tea-chests too heavy for me to move: inside my old typescripts from the days when type meant typing. You banged away, with carbon paper for a copy. You always seemed to make mistakes near the bottom of the page, cursed, tore out the page, shoved in more paper and carbon and started again. Throw all that labour away? My first book, Wine, had been mouldering there for half a century, galleys scrawled with corrections. Then I found The World Atlas of Wine, with letters asking for…

Five to try Kanonkop, Black Label Pinotage Stellenbosch South Africa 2012 97 £115 Majestic There are only 1,500 bottles of this single-vineyard wine, sourced from a single 60-year-old block. Plush, silky and very complex, with notes of graphite and black fruits, and deftly handled oak. Drink 2016-2025 Alcohol 14.5% Beeslaar, Pinotage, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2012 96 £30 SA Wines Online The maiden release under Abrie Beeslaar’s own label is floral, enticing and beautifully framed, with masses of sweet, brambly fruit, hints of Asian spices, supple tannins and a core of minerality. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 14.5% Chamonix,Greywacke Pinotage, Franschoek South Africa 2013 94 £15.50-£16.95 AC Gallie, Love Wine, Stone Vine & Sun An unusual red that combines carbonic maceration with dried-on-the-vine grapes to produce something that tastes like a Pinotage crossed…

Five to try Frog’s Leap, Zinfandel, Napa Valley 2013 91 £21.25-£27.80 Fields Morris & Verdin, Hedonism, Hennings, The Solent Cellar, Waitrose Looking for a more restrained style? This dry-farmed Zinfandel is kept in check through co-fermentation with Carignan and Petit Sirah. At once attractively lively and herbal while maintaining Zinfandel’s bouncy berry fruit profile. American oak lingers but resolves with a few years of bottle age. Drink 2016-2022 Alcohol 13.8% Turley Juvenile Zinfandel 2014 91 £23 Butlers Wine Cellar, Winedirect A blend of young vines planted in historic Zinfandel sites throughout California, this is unapologetic and honest: lush strawberry and pepper, plush with waxy tannins. Oak is in the background. This is big alcohol country, but the glove fits. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 15.5% Hartford, Old Vine Zinfandel, Russian River Valley…

Right Bank By James Lawther MW THE DAYS OF a Right or Left Bank vintage are probably over, but suffice it to say 2015 is an excellent year this side of the Dordogne river. It is one of those years, like 1998 or 2001, where the Merlot is spot on and where the Cabernet Franc, if brought to optimum ripeness, is also superb. Even Cabernet Sauvignon had its chance this year. Climatic conditions matched those in the rest of Bordeaux: a hot, dry spring permitting a homogenous, fast flowering; and summer heat and drought aiding concentration but instigating a certain amount of stress in the vineyard which was eased by August rain. The contrast with other regions, especially northern Médoc, fell in early September with a lighter bout of rain.…

11 of the best from Cairanne Domaine de l’Oratoire St-Martin, Haut-Coustias, Cairanne 2013 93 £19.95 Berry Bros & Rudd Shy nose with a hint of pear but has potential and real elegance. The palate has inner strength; a welling-up of tangy flavour and a knuckle of firm grip as it ends. Allow it time to breathe. Lovely and complete – goes all the way. Drink 2016-2020 Alcohol 14% Domaine les Hautes Cances, Cuvée Tradition, Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne 2010 93 £12.90 OW Loeb Brewed, dark aroma; full bodied, good life force and fresh – even in amid its plentiful fruit weight. Long. Drink 2016-2021 Alc 14% Domaine Alary, Cuvée Jean de Verde, Cairanne 2012 92 £17.50 H2Vin Full, floral nose. Broad, meaty, deep, red-berried palate showing power from within. Serious…

Six wines to try Klein Constantia, MCC Brut 2012 90 £16-£17 Cape London, Cape Wine & Food, Dulwich Vintners, SA Wines Online Lovely brisk acidity with crisp apple and citrus notes to the fore, followed by brioche, cream and a savoury salinity. Lightly textured but very good definition and length. Drink 2016-2023 Alcohol 11.5% Klein Constantia, Metis Sauvignon Blanc 2014 93 £18.29-£22 Cape London, Dulwich Vintners, Le Vignoble, Philglas & Swiggot A typical mint, cassis and lemon zest nose. Bright and energetic in the mouth with sappy, apple and citrus fruit. Very supple chalky, flinty texture which is fine and concentrated. Effortlessly long, spicy finish. Drink 2017-2024 Alc 13.5% Klein Constantia, Perdeblokke Sauvignon Blanc 2014 92 £19 Mentzendorff From an exceptional single vineyard at the top of the estate. A…

Austria: know your vintages 2015 Hot, sunny and dry, but Wagram and other regions affected by hail. Excellent wines but some with low acidities. 2014 The vintage was wrecked by rain. Few top wines made, but the simpler whites are crisp and racy. 2013 Hot summer but refreshed by timely rain. Excellent dry whites and elegant reds. 2012 Spring frosts damaged 4,000ha. August and September were warm and dry, giving full-bodied whites and reds with slightly low acidity. 2011 Warm dry summer and autumn. Excellent dry whites throughout Austria, and rich, supple Burgenland reds. A outstanding vintage in Styria. 2010 Hot, dry July, but August and September proved damp and cool. Modest reds but fresh dry whites with a lean structure but good ageing potential. 2009 Hail damage in Styria…

Brook’s tasting tour of Austria Emmerich Knoll, Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Loibenberg, Wachau 2013 95 £28 Roberson Classic Wachau Grüner from a top estate. The nose is appley, spicy and vibrant, while the palate is rich, plump and concentrated, with depth and weight. Powerful, complex and stony, with very good length. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 13.5% Bernhard Ott, Spiegel Grüner Veltliner, Wagram 2013 93 £22-£26 Savage Selection, The Wine Society From Wagram’s leading Grüner Veltliner specialist, the Spiegel cuvée shows a muted apricot nose, but is rich, creamy and full-bodied on the palate. Concentrated and firm, with spice, grip and structure. Long. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 13% Schloss Gobelsburg, Riesling Reserve, Gaisberg, Kamptal 2013 93 £22.10 Clark Foyster Rich lime nose. The attack is lively, crisp and zesty, and this Riesling shows intensity…

Steven recommends... (for full details of UK stockists, see p147 ) Gaia Wines, Thalassitis Assyrtiko, Santorini, Greece 2015 91/100 £17-£18.28 Carruthers & Kent, Selfridges, Strictly Wine, Wineman Established in 1994 to make cutting-edge wines from Nemea and Santorini, the latter’s volcanic soil brings minerality to the floral, crisply fresh fruit from the local Assyrtiko grape. Drink 2016-2017 Alcohol 13% Lismore Estate, Viognier, Western Cape, South Africa 2015 90 £18.80-£27.47 North & South Wine, Strictly Wine, Wineman Californian Samantha O’Keefe makes some of South Africa’s finest wines from her Greyton vineyards. This barrel-fermented and aged Viognier is pure, juicy and aromatically fresh. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14% Domaine de la Mordorée, La Dame Rousse Rosé, Tavel, France 2014 92 £16.05 Bancroft, Hawkshead, Slurp This renowned Lirac-based estate makes Tavel’s best rosé…

The judges Jim Budd Budd is the DWWA Regional Chair for Loire. He has written about wine since 1988 and contributed to Decanter since 1989. Budd also writes the awarded Jimsloire.blogspot.com and is a member of Les5duvin.wordpress.com blog. He contributes to Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book and is a keen photographer. Chris Kissack Kissack has published the subscription site TheWinedoctor.com, since 2000. He has focused on the Loire for many years, and has been a frequent visitor since 1993, visiting domaines, experiencing the vineyards and harvests, and reporting on the winemakers and their wines throughout the year. Laure Patry Patry attended sommelier school in Angers in the Loire before moving to London in 2003. She worked for eight years for Gordon Ramsay Holdings at Claridges and Maze and then joined Jason…

My top three Chris Kissack • Domaine de St-Just, Montée des Roches, Saumur-Champigny 2014 Yves Lambert left finance to take up the secateurs in 1996, but after his passing in 2011 son Arnaud took up the mantle. I’m glad he did. I was particularly impressed by this cuvée, which I ranked my joint-top. 96 Drink 2018-2028 • Château de Villeneuve, Le Grand Clos, Samur-Champigny 2011 Jean-Pierre Chevalier has terroir and experience on his side, and it shows in this, his top cuvée. It will age well too – I’m still waiting for the 2005 to come around! 95 Drink 2016-2024 • Domaine de Rocheville, Le Page, Saumur-Champigny 2014 Proprietor Philippe Porché only arrived here in 2005, but his wines are classic, pure and ageworthy. This entry-level cuvée proves it. 91…

The results Styles are definitely shifting away from big and burly and towards a fresher, more balanced model, but it’s a work in progress, said our panel. Amy Wislocki reports ‘GOODBYE TO THE burly, huge, high-alcohol wines of 12 to 15 years ago!’ exclaimed Stephen Brook with relief, after a two-day tasting of 179 wines. ‘These Californian Chardonnays have definitely become fresher over the years, and most were pretty well balanced.’ ‘In my role as senior wine buyer for Marks & Spencer five years ago or so, we dismissed California as showing little potential or interest,’ recalled Andy Howard MW. ‘But today there’s definitely interest. I’d call it a work in progress though – you can see a shift in direction and a move away from the heavweight, tropical style…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Hirsch Vineyards, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County 2013 93 MA 92 SB 93 AH 94 £60 Roberson Wine Very elegant nose with mineral and oak nuances. Silky-smooth texture with lovely poise and an uplifting, refreshing quality. Concentrated palate of orange zest with some stone fruit characters too. Controlled and balanced with great potential. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 13.5% Hanzell, Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County 2013 91 MA 91 SB 93 AH 90 £50 Armit Wines A nose that captures the attention: chiselled, fresh and elegant. Oak is subtle and integrated with a mineral edge and some phenolic grip on the palate. Green citrus and basil notes bring complexity. Understated, yet modern with a pleasant finish. Drink 2016-2024 Alc 14.3% Calera, Mt Harlan, Central Coast 2014 92 MA 91 SB 91…

My top three Andy Howard MW • Hirsch Vineyards, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County 2013 A refined, elegant, modern Californian Chardonnay at the same quality level as top white Burgundy. Fresh and zesty with great purity and lift. Has the structure to age but is drinking beautifully now – why wait? 94 Drink 2016-2022 • Calera, Mt Harlan, Central Coast 2014 The shy nose and powerful palate is more down the route of a Corton Charlemagne than normal Californian Chardonnays. With a mineral, limestone-influenced palate and restrained oak, this is still notably complex and persistent. 93 Drink 2016-2024 • Au Bon Climat, Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley, Central Coast 2014 Lovely purity, focus and gunflint notes from one of the original driving forces behind the Burgundian approach to Californian…

Patagonian reds Compared to Mendoza, this southern Argentinian region is a minnow, and one still finding its best terroirs. But it’s an exciting work in progress, discovers Patricio Tapia THE PREDOMINANCE OF Mendoza in the context of Argentinian wine is a matter of size: more than 75% of the country’s 217,000 hectares of vineyards are planted there. But it is also about leadership in terms of terroir. Some of the wines with the strongest sense of place today in Argentina come from this province. But that supremacy doesn’t mean we should dismiss other evolving regions. Patagonia, 1,000km south of Mendoza, is one of them – despite its relative small size (it represents only 1.68% of Argentina’s vineyard land). The two most important wine provinces in Patagonia are Río Negro and…

Nina Caplan ‘You can drink what you like, but Québeckers have a soft spot for France’ IF QUEBEC REMAINS ‘La Belle Province’ when all around her speak English, it’s because Francophone Canada learned early to stand up for herself – the mother country was 5,000km away, its rulers far from supportive even before the French Revolution proved a terminal distraction. That relationship remains complicated but diners don’t suffer: quite the reverse. Chefs happily use French methods and cuts, but produce is local and nobody here has much time for the starched manners of la grande cuisine. ‘Pretension is the enemy of good food and wine,’ says David McMillan, and he’d know. The co-owner (with Frédéric Morin) of Joe Beef named his exceptional restaurant after an Irish-born army quartermaster turned Montréal…

Grape varieties Julia Harding MW Photograph: Julius Kühn-Institut Bundesforschungsinstitut für Kulturpflanzen, Institut für Rebenzüchtung Geilweilerhof Aligoté While Aligoté is hardly rare – there are about 2,000ha in France, mostly in the greater Burgundy region, and it is widely planted in Eastern Europe – it doesn’t generally get the respect it sometimes deserves. It can be eye-wateringly tart and neutral, ideal as a base for kir, but older vines on good sites where the grapes reach full ripeness can produce distinctive wines that are piercingly fresh, herbal and stony. However, the variety is rarely allowed to enjoy top vineyard sites in Burgundy because Pinot Noir or Chardonnay are more profitable. Its parents are Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, so it is a sibling not only of Chardonnay but also of Gamay…

Rosé, Languedoc-style When the temperature hits 30°C in the shade, most wine drinkers are more likely to reach for a bottle of white or rosé than a hearty red. Under the circumstances, it’s hardly surprising that the Languedoc, like Provence, has an established tradition of producing rosé wines. In fact, rosés account for 12% of all the wines produced in the region – that’s 2% more than white wines. Generally speaking, there is more diversity to the style of pink produced in the Languedoc than elsewhere in southern France. There are delicate, aromatic rosés that are reminiscent of the wines of Provence, as well as punchy wines whose deep colour hints at their ripeness and concentrated fruit flavours. As a general rule, however, Languedoc rosés tend to be dry and…

Vintage guide 2005 Warmth and rain during spring resulted in a healthy flowering, while a dry, cool summer ensured a good balance of phenolic ripeness and acidity. The best wines are still drinking well. 2006 Intermittent rains towards the end of the ripening season resulted in a vintage of relatively supple wines lacking the concentration to age well. 2007 The Languedoc fared better than most of France, despite a dull spring and a dry summer. Quantities were low, but concentration was high. The best wines are ageing gracefully. 2008 While most of France was deluged with rain, the Languedoc had a dry summer. The harvest was small but very healthy; reds showed firm structure and deep colours. 2009 Warm, dry conditions resulted in an exemplary harvest of concentrated, ageworthy wines.…

Alibaba founder plans wine ‘Black Friday’ compiled by Richard Woodard Photograph: cnbc.com CHINA Online retailer Alibaba is planning a new ‘Black Friday’-style sales day on 9 September devoted exclusively to deals on wine. The event, dubbed ‘9/9’ and apparently inspired by China’s Singles’ Day shopping event on 11 November, was confirmed by Alibaba founder Jack Ma during a public discussion with Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi at April’s Vinitaly trade fair in Verona. Ma, who recently bought Château de Sours in Bordeaux’s Entre-Deux-Mers region, referred to his new project as a ‘day of wine’, said Italian press agency Ansa, and said he planned to create a variety of online offers annually on wine sold through Alibaba on 9 September. The figure nine is pronounced in Chinese as ‘jiu’, which also…

In brief Bordeaux négociant GRM has been bought by the co-founder of Hong Kong-based Qeelin Jewellery, French entrepreneur Guillaume Brochard, and two Chinese investors. The deal for the Pineuilh-based firm was signed two weeks after Alibaba founder Jack Ma’s purchase of Château de Sours, and was the third Bordeaux-related acquisition by Chinese investors within a week. A group of Barcelona pensioners accidentally wrecked 200 decades-old vines when they got lost in vineyards near El Vilet in Catalunya while looking for a restaurant. The five SUVs being used by the group destroyed the Macabeu vines – aged 25 to 50 years and owned by eight different growers – after becoming stuck in mud while turning around. The winery which makes veteran singer Sir Cliff Richard’s Portuguese wines, Vida Nova and Onda…

Andrew Jefford ‘I went back to Jerez earlier this year. It has changed utterly’ SHERRY WAS THE milk of my wine-drinking infancy. Bottles of Tio Pepe and Bristol Cream would parade under our Christmas tree (my father was a vicar), making a glass before dinner not too infrequent a treat. It was also the invariable prelude to the Sunday lunch my mother laboured all morning over, served once my father got back from church. I loved it. One sniff takes me back; the years drop away. My maternal grandparents lived nearby and, when my brothers and I were old enough, they’d give us a pretty little cut glass of Findlater’s Dry Fly Sherry to sip after the cake and the tea cups had been whisked away. At university, my Anglo-Saxon…

Five to try Zind-Humbrecht, Gewurztraminer, Hengst Grand Cru 2013 97 £48 Berry Bros & Rudd, Enotria & Coe, Farr Vintners, Gauntleys, L’Art du Vin, Uncorked Intense aromas of black pepper, quince, pear and dried herbs. Palate is rich, concentrated and profound with fine acidity and a very long finish. Sweet, spicy and powerful. Drink 2018-2033 Alcohol 13.5% Paul Ginglinger, Gewurztraminer, Pfersigberg Grand Cru 2013 95 £17-£39 The Wine Society, La Marchande Fresh aromas of citrus and flowers. Full-bodied and fresh palate with nice acidity and a long finish. Will keep well for more than a decade. Drink 2018-2033 Alc 13% Domaines Schlumberger, Gewurztraminer, Kessler Grand Cru 2013 92 £22 Henderson Wines, Maisons Marques et Domaines, The Oxford Wine Co, Partridges Ripe and elegant style showing flower and wild strawberry aromas.…

Five to try Cloudy Bay, Te Koko 2012 96 £26-£32.50 Hawkshead, Hedonism, Inverarity Morton/ Forth Wines, NZ House of Wine, Rodney Fletcher, Slurp Te Koko is less about Sauvignon Blanc fruit flavours (which are nevertheless evident) and more about texture and an array of nut, bran biscuit and spicy characters, thanks to wild yeast fermentation and lees stirring. Rich, smooth and mouthfilling. Drink 2016-2020 Alcohol 13.5% Dog Point, Section 94, Southern Valleys 2013 96 £17.50-£21.50 Cape London, Carruthers & Kent, Hennings, Lay & Wheeler, James Nicholson, The Wine Society Subtle oak allows stone-fruit, mineral, citrus, struck match and nutty lees flavours to take centre stage here. It contributes to the wine’s rich and creamy texture. Complex, with a funky character. Drink 2016-2021 Alc 14% Astrolabe, Sauvignon Blanc, Awatere Valley 2015…

Bordeaux 2015 Decanter’s consultant editor Steven Spurrier declares ‘Bordeaux is back’ in 2015, with a ‘sure-bet’ vintage that ticks all the boxes, producing great wines across the region ‘Some great wines have been made, and I feel that 2015’s reputation will grow’ ‘They offer truly pleasurable drinking to the Bordeaux lover during the next decade and beyond’ SINCE CHRISTMAS THE news from Bordeaux had been increasingly upbeat yet relatively restrained. The message was that critics, merchants and investors were going to enjoy the 2015 en primeur tastings, and this was proved correct. It is a very fine vintage across the whole region, including dry and sweet whites, and while it is not the greatest vintage ever, some great wines have been made and I feel that its reputation, already high…

Reading the results Wines are marked on the 100-point scale. For full tasting notes, notably on wines scoring 89 points and below, and for the latest pricing news, visit Decanter.com Wines are ordered by commune (north to south) and then by score, with wines of the same score listed in alphabetical order. Classifications (right and at the bottom of each page) have been added where appropriate. Crus bourgeois châteaux have been denoted according to the Sélection Officielle 2012. For St-Emilion, we have marked wines under the 2012 classification. 1–5CC 1st–5th growth (Médoc) CC cru classé CB/E cru bourgeois/exceptionnel 1GCC 1er grand cru classé (St-Emilion) GCC grand cru classé GC grand cru 2L/3L 2nd label or 3rd label…

Masciarelli’s Castello di Semivicoli A gastronomic holiday in a secret corner of Abruzzo, surrounded by olive trees and vineyards Ideal for lovers of beauty “off the beaten track”: a home that preserves intact the authenticity of bygone times and places Surrounded by smooth lawns, olive groves and vineyards, the magnificent building of Castello di Semivicoli sits on a hill between the mountains and the sea, with breathtaking views over Abruzzo. Brought back to its past splendour thanks to a long restoration by the Masciarelli family, the Castello di Semivicoli surprises guests for its beauty and authenticity. This is what originally enchanted Gianni Masciarelli – the winemaker who started the renaissance in Abruzzo winemaking – who gave it to his wife Marina Cvetic as a gift; it was a turning point…

Around the regions Lower Austria Wachau Steep vineyards on primary rock that follow the curve of the Danube. Ideal for structured white wines. Kremstal Surrounding the riverside town of Krems, this region has vines on primary rock and loess. Excellent whites, especially Grüner Veltliner, and some good reds. Kamptal Similar in climate and terroir to Kremstal and best suited to white wines. Traisental The vineyards line a tributary of the Danube and produce fine Grüner Veltliner from mixed soils. Wagram A large region just west of Vienna along the Danube, best known for opulent Grüner Veltliner and other varieties. Weinviertel Vast but ill-defined region between Vienna and the Czech and Slovak borders to the north and east. Known for Grüner but many other varieties thrive. Carnuntum South of the River…

Outstanding 95–97pts Domaine la Bonnelière, Les Poyeux, Saumur-Champigny 2014 Decanter average score: 96/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Jim Budd 96 Chris Kissack 95 Laure Patry 96 £13.99 Alliance If Saumur-Champigny’s vineyards were ever classified, Les Poyeux would likely be a grand cru. Facing southwest, this 15-hectare vineyard has a special microclimate: warmer and drier than surrounding parcels. The Bonneaus, who attach importance to site rather than vine age, own 3ha in the middle of Les Poyeux. This wine is aged for a year – 30% in barriques, the rest in stainless steel. It’s a bargain at this price! Jim Budd Ripe, textured fruit and a great structure, which is quite marked by tannins at present but has real potential to age. Chris Kissack Savoury dried cherry aromas with pepper and truffle.…

My top three Laure Patry • Le Petit St-Vincent, Les Clos Lyzières, Saumur-Champigny 2014 Dominique Joseph now works this family domaine with low intervention and since 1994 hasn’t used any chemical fertiliser. Elegant, precise and easy drinking. 95 Drink 2016-2025 • Chateau Fosse-Sèche, Eolithe, Saumur 2013 The other tasters scored this 80, which brought the average down. This wine was different than the other Saumurs, probably as it is planted on silex and iron oxide rather than the usual tuffeau soil. Well made in a challenging year by a family that created their own vineyard ecosystem. 92 Drink 2016-2020 • Clotilde et René-Noël Legrand, Les Lizières, Saumur-Champigny 2014 Again, other scores of 84 and 82 brought the average down. Not the most complex wine, but good expression for an entry-level…

Expert summary: Jim Budd With both established and emerging producers doing well, no clear conclusions can be drawn from this tasting – except that these Cabernet Francs represent great value ‘Whether 2015 or 2014 is the superior vintage is likely to be debated for some time’ THIS WAS A very encouraging tasting: overall the quality of these reds from the Saumur region was high, with few poor wines. It is no surprise that the 2014s dominate the results as it is clearly the best vintage since 2010. Although still very young with some top cuvées yet to be bottled, it is proving a very attractive vintage to drink now with lots of ripe fruit and well-balanced structure and acidity. Whether 2015 or 2014 is the superior vintage is likely to…

The judges Mark Andrew Andrew is co-founder and editor of Noble Rot, a wine, food and popular-culture magazine that opened an eponymous wine bar and restaurant in central London in late 2015. Before this he spent almost a decade at Roberson Wine, where he was head wine buyer. He is writing his Master of Wine research paper. Stephen Brook Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and is the Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chair for USA. The author of more than 30 books, his works include the awarded Wines of California and Finest Wines of California. Andy Howard MW With more than 30 years’ experience as a buyer at Marks & Spencer, Howard became a Master of Wine in 2011. In 2013, he left M&S to…

Recommended 86–89pts Commended 83-85pts • Akiyoshi, Sur Lie Aged, Lodi 2014 85, 13.5%, 2016-2018, £18.99 Naked Wines • Bien Nacido Vineyards, Santa Maria Valley, Central Coast 2012 85, 14.1%, 2016-2019, £40 Christopher Keiller • Bonterra, Mendocino 2013 85, 13.5%, 2016-2020, £11.99 Booths • Cakebread Cellars, Napa Valley 2013 85, 14%, 2016-2022, £36 Corney & Barrow • Calera, Central Coast 2014 85, 14.4%, 2016-2020, £26 Top Selection • Caricature, Lodi 2014 85, 13.9%, 2016-2018, N/A UK www.caricaturewine.com • Castle Rock, Central Coast 2013 85, 13.5%, 2016-2018, £12.50 Bacchanalia, Bancroft, Street Wines, Thind Wine Merchants • Francis Coppola, Diamond Collection, Gold Label, Monterey, Central Coast 2013 85, 13.5%, 2016-2018, £16.50 (2012) Holyvale Wines • Frei Brothers, Reserve, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County 2013 85, 13.5%, 2016-2020, N/A UK www.freibrothers.com •…

My top three Stephen Brook • Ridge, Estate, Santa Cruz Mountains 2014 The Monte Bello is more highly regarded but this blew me away, and received my top score. It shows an almost Burgundian tension and vibrancy. 95 Drink 2016-2025 • Hanzell, Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County 2013 This has been one of California’s classic Chardonnays for decades. With its power and density, it may seem old-fashioned to those seeking a leaner, fresher style, but on its own terms it’s magnificent. 93 Drink 2016-2024 • Dutton Goldfield, Dutton Ranch Rued Vineyard, Green Valley, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County 2013 I have long admired Dan Goldfield’s steely Chardonnays and this is a winner: ripe and complex aromas, and textured and long on the finish. 91 Drink 2016-2024…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s tastings director, Christelle Guibert, has done the hard work for you by picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines at under £20 – all UK-available * denotes supermarket and high-street wines Juvé y Camps, Reserva de la Familia Gran Reserva Cava, Penedès, Spain 2011 92 £19.50 Exel Wines, Fortnum & Mason, Philglas & Swiggot, Vinoteca Free-run juice of Macabeu, Xarel-lo and Parellada grapes, aged for 36 months in bottle before release. Citrus and floral aromas with a honey hint. Pure, tangy palate with lingering herb and lees characters. Complex and focused; a must try. Alc 12% Cave de Turckheim, Gewurztraminer, Grand Cru Brand, Alsace, France 2011 90 £18-£19 Camber Wines, D Byrne,…

My Cape Town South Africa’s ‘Mother City’ offers incredible views, restaurants and bars – not to mention all the wine regions just a short drive away Gary Jordan Photographs: Ariadne Van Zandbergen/Alamy Stock ; Deisng Pics Inc/Alamy Stock; Micky Hoyle Photography. Map: Maggie Nelson  1 Sundowners on top of Lion’s Head A moderate hike to the peak (669m above sea level) gives you a 360° view from Camps Bay to the 12 Apostles, up the West Coast, all the way around to Stellenbosch and into the centre of Cape Town. Hiking shoes and BYO wine necessary for one of South Africa’s best sunset drinking spots. 2 Publik Wine Bar The wine list changes daily, showcasing new and interesting wines from South Africa, all served by the glass. Space is shared…

UK stockists Where to find the wines featured in this guide Albion Wine Shippers, London WC1 (www.albionwineshippers.co.uk) Alliance Wine, Ayrshire (www.alliancewine.co.uk) Asset Wines, London (www.assetwines.com) Bancroft, London SE1 (www.bancroftwines.com) Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (www.bbr.com) Cambridge Wine Merchants (www.cambridgewine.com) Campbells of Leyburn (www.campbellsofleyburn.co.uk) Carruthers & Kent, Tyne & Wear (www.carruthersandkent.com) Domaine Direct, London (www.domainedirect.co.uk) Dulwich Vintners (www.dulwichvintners.co.uk) Ellis Wharton, Cornwall (www.ewwines.co.uk) Fareham Cellar, Hampshire (www.farehamwinecallar.co.uk) Flying Corkscrew, Hertfordshire (www.flyingcorkscrew.co.uk) Georges Barbier, London SE12 (www.georgesbarbier.co.uk) H2Vin, London (www.h2vin.co.uk) Hawkshead Wines, Banbury (www.hawksheadwines.co.uk) Hay Wines, Ledbury (www.haywines.co.uk) Inverarity Morton/Forth Wines, Glasgow (www.inveraritymorton.com) James Ingram, Peterborough (www.jamesingramwines.co.uk) James Nicholson, Co Down (www.jnwine.com) Joseph Barnes, Essex (www.josephbarneswines.com) Le Bon Vin, Sheffield (www.lebonvin.co.uk) Lea & Sandeman, London (www.leaandsandeman.co.uk) Leon Stolarski, Notts (www.lsfinewines.co.uk) Les Caves de Pyrène (www.lescaves.co.uk) Majestic (www.majestic.co.uk) Nethergate Wines, Suffolk (www.nethergatewines.com) No2…

SPONSORED GUIDE The great reds of the south The Languedoc’s many terroirs, and its range of grape varieties, produce rich and diverse range of red styles Photograph: Sophie Quencez Photograph: Céline et Gilles Deschamps/CIVL ‘How might we view the map of France’s wine regions had the country’s south established different trade routes through Europe?’ It has become popular in certain circles to discuss the ‘what ifs’ of past events. How would the modern world look, for instance, had Napoleon won the Battle of Waterloo, or if Germany had not lost World War II? Questions like these can fuel evenings of companionable debate – or provide inspiration for a best-selling novel or TV series. The wine world, too, offers opportunities for contemplating alternative histories. In particular, how might we view the…

Climate change a mixed blessing for UK winemaking UK Climate change is a mixed blessing for winemaking in the UK, with productivity under threat from extreme weather episodes, according to a new study. Rising temperatures have often been viewed as beneficial to the fast-growing wine industry in the UK, but research undertaken at the University of East Anglia (UEA) suggests that yields can vary significantly, with a move to Champagne grape varieties exacerbating the trend. ‘We found that, while average temperatures over the growing season have been above a key minimum threshold for “cool-climate” viticulture for two decades, wine yields vary considerably,’ said lead researcher Alistair Nesbitt, from UEA’s School of Environmental Sciences. ‘Producers recognised the contribution of climate change to the sector’s recent growth, but also expressed concerns about…

Etienne Hugel 1958-2016 Photograph: Kurt-Inge Eklund ‘Alsace has lost its brightest ambassador, the world of wine an aesthete with huge knowledge’ ETIENNE HUGEL‘S SUDDEN death, aged 57, was announced in a short statement by the Hugel family winery in Riquewihr, Alsace on 10 April; he had died the previous day. Hugel, who succeeded his uncle Jean – known widely as Johnny – in the role of roving ambassador for Hugel wines, was famous for his boundless energy, his broad smile, his communication skills (he was a master of social media), and particularly his passion for Riesling. At tastings and wine events at home and abroad, he took evident delight in applying (non-permanent) tattoos to the forearms of fellow Riesling lovers; tattoos spelling out in bold, black ink the name of…

Letters Enraged or inspired by what you’ve read? Email editor@decanter.com, or write to: The Editor, Decanter, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London SE1 0SU, UK Look after your own WITH ALL THE turmoil surrounding the axed proposed disability cuts in the recent UK budget, it would have been easy to miss the onward march of duty for the wine industry. While real ale and spirit drinkers may have been raising their glasses to the Chancellor, wine drinkers face increases in line with inflation. The Chancellor may have seen this as a vote winner, supporting local pubs and the emerging micro-brewery industry; however, singling out wine for a rise betrays a fundamental lack of awareness of the industry progress. The English wine industry is developing rapidly and gaining support, nationally…

What I’ve been drinking this month I’ve been greatly enjoying Mommesin’s Grandes Mises range of Beaujolais. The bottles and labels look serious. Which was ominous: would these prove to be oakily ponderous, wannabe Côtes de Nuits reds? Happily not. One of the best was the Beaujolais Villages 2014: vibrant yet round, soft fruited and tender; magnetic drinking. Of the crus, the St-Amour 2014 was a sour fountain, while the Côte de Brouilly 2013 was a sweeter bubble with a bitter end. They were tannin-spattered; the acidity was fruit-saturated and spectacularly energetic. Served chilled, of course: gorgeous.…

Five to try Photograph: Bosca78/Getty Images Lis Neris Gris, Friuli Isonzo, Friuli Venezia Giulia 2013 93 £20-25.20 AG Wines, Hedonism Consistently one of Italy’s best Pinot Grigios. Lightly oaked, this wine has an enviable track record of excellence, showcasing outstanding balance to its ripe orchard fruit, cinnamon and floral notes. Drink 2016-2020 Alcohol 13.5% Lo Triolet di Marco Martin, Pinot Gris Barrique, Valle d’Aosta 2014 93 N/A UK www.lotriolet.vievini.it Sweet spices, peach and jasmine jump from the glass. Very rich. Lo Triolet also makes an unoaked Pinot Grigio – for me Italy’s best. Drink 2016-2021 Alc 13.5% Tramin, Unterebner Pinot Grigio, Alto Adige 2014 93 N/A UK www.cantinatramin.it Dense, suave and sneakily concentrated, with very pure pear and vanilla nuances lingering long on the fresh aftertaste Drink 2016-2022 Alc 13.5%…

Five to try Brancott Estate, Chosen Rows Brancott 2013 95 £40 Edgmond Wines, Harvey Nichols Suave, oak-aged Sauvignon with dense orchard fruit, capsicum and nutty oak flavours. A lengthy finish reveals power, though it is delivered with subtlety. Complex, with obvious cellaring potential. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 14.5% Fairbourne, Sauvignon Blanc, Southern Valleys 2014 95 £15 Ashdown Wines Pure and taut with grapefruit, mineral and subtle gooseberry flavours. A restrained, classy style that demonstrates its underlying power with a very lengthy finish. Quite concentrated flavours – long and linear. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13.5%…

Our experts at the Bordeaux en primeur tastings Steven Spurrier Médoc (p43) Decanter’s consultant editor, and Chairman of the Decanter World Wine Awards and Decanter Asia Wine Awards Jane Anson Pessac-Léognan & Graves (p53) A Decanter contributing editor, and Bordeaux correspondent James Lawther MW Right Bank (p61) A Decanter contributing editor who is based in Bordeaux and writes regularly on its wines Photographs: François Poincet Ian D’Agata Sauternes & Barsac (p74) A Decanter contributing editor, who also writes on Bordeaux for International Wine Cellar While our expert tasters focused on their specialist Bordeaux regions, they worked as a team throughout the en primeur tastings. Any wines on which their scores were markedly apart were retasted. Our experts taste all en primeur wines…

Pessac-Léognan & Graves By Jane Anson ALTHOUGH BY NO means excellent across the board, the general standard of reds in Pessac-Léognan and Graves was higher than in 2014, with none of the excess acidity that marked some of them last year. By contrast, I felt the whites achieved more focus and precision in 2014, although the style this year is hugely seductive, with exotic fruits yet still lilting freshness. The best of the reds have luscious, fresh fruits and real elegant softness to the tannins. In Pessac-Léognan particularly, you are almost spoilt for choice and don’t always have to go to the biggest names for wines that will deliver consistent pleasure over the next 15 to 20 years. You have to be more selective within Graves, as in every year,…

Six producers to watch Domaine de l’Oratoire St-Martin It has been fascinating to observe the steady progress towards ever more refined wines at this 28ha top estate; the Alarys are local royalty, with the family contributing much to the standing of the village for several decades. Frédéric Alary reflects on their modus operandi in the following way: ‘I find I am coming back to what my grandfather did – I have suppressed the 228-litre and 600-litre oak casks in favour of large barrel or concrete vat for maturing the reds. The casks broadened the wines, whereas I want to lengthen them.’ Domaine des Amadieu Yves Jean Houser was an agricultural engineer and director of Carrefour before coming to Cairanne in 2007. He works 7ha, and I rate the biodynamic virtues…

Klein Constantia – a timeline Photograph: Robert Biedermann/Alamy Stock Photo 1711 Van der Stel dies at Constantia and the property was divided into three estates 1684 Simon Van der Stel (founder of Stellenbosch) starts his own wine farm, which occupied most of the valley. He called it Constantia. 1822 Following the death of owner Hendrik Cloete, one portion of the original property is further divided into two estates which become known as Klein Constantia and Groot Constantia 1865 Phylloxera arrives in the Cape laying waste to its vineyards. Constantia winemaking comes to an end 1912 Klein Constantia is purchased by American heiress Clara Hussey 1979 Duggie Jooste buys Klein Constantia. He builds a new cellar in time for the 1986 vintage, which was released in 1989 2011 Zdenek Bakala and…

A wine lover’s guide to Austria Stephen Brook has been visiting Austria for more than 40 years, following its rollercoaster ride through damaging scandals and breakthrough blind tastings. Here he offers a glimpse into the country’s bright future, highlighting the producers and the wines to watch ‘I would claim that by the 2000s no country in Europe was producing wines of such high average quality as Austria’ LAST YEAR I researched a book on Austrian wine, which was published in the autumn. For me it was a sheer pleasure to write, since I have been following the wines for four decades, with growing admiration for the swift progress in quality and diversity. From the mid-1970s I have been a regular visitor to Austria, and ended up writing two books about…

Six producers to look out for Photographs: Robert Herbst; Steve Haider Birgit Eichinger (Kamptal) Eichinger owns some top vineyards in the region, from which she makes classic Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings. Quality is highly consistent, and her top wines show vibrancy and minerality. Ebner-Ebenauer (Weinviertel) Until recently there were few quality-driven producers in this huge region, but since 1997 Marian Ebner and Manfred Ebenauer have shown what can be done here. The range is large, from fine sparkling wines to old-vine Grüner and Roter Veltliners and Rieslings, as well as Chardonnay. Until now, the whites have been more impressive than the reds. Josef Fritz (Wagram) Wagram is known both for its rich, sappy Grüner Veltliners and for its more exotic Roter Veltliner, a variety unrelated to Grüner. The genial Fritz…

Spurrier’s World Decanter’s globetrotting consultant editor gives us a round-up of recent tastings, his views on current issues in the wine world and top bottles to drink or keep ‘21st Century Vino, started by the Chalmers family, joins together those who grow and make Italian varieties’ 21st Century Vino This was the title of the tasting put on by Wine Australia last December to feature wines made across different regions from Italian grape varieties. Of the 41 wines I tasted, I gave 89/100 or above to more than half, the tasting encapsulating today’s ever-diversifying wine world. Here are some of those that stood out from their respective states, with indicative retail prices in brackets: Victoria Chrismont’s La Zona Arneis, King Valley 2013 (£13); Chalmers, Fiano, Heathcote 2012 (£20); Crittenden Estate,…

The results With 66% of wines recommended, this was a solid tasting showcasing well-made, pure Cabernet Franc wines across five varied vintages. Christelle Guibert reports CABERNET FRANC MAY have been living in the shadow of Cabernet Sauvignon for years, but it is finally starting to get the recognition it deserves. While Cabernet Sauvignon is big, bold and tannic, Cabernet Franc seems more feminine with its fragrant, graceful red fruit and silky texture. So how do Loire Cabernet Francs stack up? Our panel said consumers were still ‘under the misconception’ that Saumur wines were ‘only good for drinking in a French bistro’, said Laure Patry. Jim Budd agreed: ‘In books written in the 1950s and ’60s, Loire wines were described as light and fruity. Yes, some are still simple and quaffable…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Domaine St-Vincent, Les Adrialys, Saumur-Champigny 2015 94 JB 92 CK 96 LP 95 N/A UK www.st-vincent.com Dark and toasty, with primary blackcurrant and black cherry fruit. Medium bodied with good acidity and structure. A vibrant wine with a ripe, tannic, spicy finish; needs time but it is going places. Drink 2016-2027 Alc 14% Château de Parnay, Clos des Meuniers, Saumur-Champigny 2014 92 JB 90 CK 96 LP 90 N/A UK www.chateaudeparnay.fr Perfumed, black cherry fruit with vanilla and dark chocolate. The palate is fresh and pure with elegant balance, a savoury backbone and long finish of ripe tannins. Delectable. Drink 2016-2026 Alc 13% Domaine de St-Just, Montée des Roches, Saumur-Champigny 2014 93 JB 91 CK 96 LP 92 £19.50 Christopher Keiller, Raeburn Fine Wines Blackcurrant and tobacco…

My top three Jim Budd • Domaine la Bonnelière, Les Poyeux, Saumur-Champigny 2014 The domaine dates from 1972 and is now run by Anthony and Cédric Bonneau. With sand over limestone, and facing southwest, Les Poyeux is one of the best sites in the appellation. Excellent potential. 96 Drink 2017-2025 • Antoine Sanzay, Samur-Champigny 2014 Now in his 30s, Antoine Sanzay is among the AC’s leading producers. His 2014s are excellent – this is the straight domaine wine with rich seductive fruit, long and beautifully balanced. 94 Drink 2016-2026 • Domaine Filliatreau, Château Fouquet, Saumur 2014 One of the most important producers in the region, whose Saumur from vines in Brézé planted on clay limestone can rival Saumur-Champigny. 94 Drink 2016-2026…

Californian Chardonnay There is no one style of Chardonnay from the Golden State, says Stephen Brook, who looks at the trend towards freshness and finesse even from warmer areas Map: Maggie Nelson WINES STYLES INEVITABLY go through phases and fads. Cabernet Sauvignons from Napa in the 1980s were generally around 12.5% or 13%. Then they grew in weight and richness, and those, like Mondavi, who stubbornly adhered to their leaner style, on the grounds that it was more food-friendly, were roundly punished for it by many critics. Cabernets grew richer and oakier until someone realised the super-ripe 1997s were not ageing well, and recently there has been a sporadic scaling back. It’s the same with Chardonnays. Many from the 1970s and 1980s – Montelena, Far Niente, Hanzell – did not…

Outstanding 95–97pts Ridge, Estate, Santa Cruz Mountains 2014 Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Mark Andrew 95 Stephen Brook 95 Andy Howard MW 95 £50 Berry Bros & Rudd Ridge’s two Chardonnays come from its superb Monte Bello vineyards high up in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Although Monte Bello is better known for its Cabernets, Chardonnay has always occupied about 5% of the vineyard area, and Ridge began to produce Chardonnay from those mature vines in 1962. The old vines have been gradually replanted since 1985. Winemaking is similar for both wines, with whole-cluster pressing, barrel-fermentation with natural yeasts, and an ageing of 14 months in more than 90% American oak. In this vintage 23% new oak was used. The Estate Chardonnay is the same wine as the former…

My top three Mark Andrew • Hyde de Villaine, De la Guerra, Carneros, Napa Valley 2013 A seriously delicious wine – no surprise considering the winery’s pedigree. That it is the winery’s entry-level Chardonnay is great news for value-seekers; it punches well above its weight. 93 Drink 2016-2020 • Hirsch Vineyards, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County 2013 Proving that Hirsch is not just brilliant at Pinot Noir, this has mineral vitality and world-class poise. I’ve followed this wine over the past few years, and 2013 is set to be my favourite yet. 92 Drink 2016-2022 • Sandhi, Sanford & Benedict, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara 2013 This wine’s silky texture and racy acidity never cease to impress; definitely one for Burgundy lovers. It has a great future, but I’ll struggle to…

Expert summary: Stephen Brook In such a broad tasting from a large state, with many AVAs, styles, vintages and prices represented, the only conclusion is that there should be a wine for every palate EVERY CONCEIVABLE STYLE of Californian Chardonnay was included in this tasting, and the results were far from being a clean sweep for any school of taste. Among the wines scoring an average of 90 or more, there were many that devotees of a restrained, mineral, low-alcohol style (the In Pursuit of Balance movement) might consider old fashioned, such as those from Calera, Hanzell, Patz & Hall, Fess Parker and Domaine Eden. Leaner wines from Hirsch, Dutton Goldfield and Au Bon Climat, showed very well, as did bottlings from Flowers and Iron Horse. Richer but not overblown…

UK stockists Where to find the wines featured in Decanter this month Abbey Wines, Melrose (01896 823 244) ABS Wine Agencies, Lincs (www.abswineagencies.co.uk) AC Gallie, Jersey (www.acgallie.com) AG Wines, London (www.agwines.com) Alliance Wine, Ayrshire (www.alliancewine.co.uk) Alpine Wines (www.alpinewines.co.uk) Amathus, London (www.amathusdrinks.com) Amazon (www.amazon.co.uk) Anglia Wine Merchants, Cambridgeshire (www.angliawines.co.uk) Appellation Wines, Edinburgh (www.appellationwines.co.uk) Arkell Vintners, Wilts (01793 823 026) Armit Wines, London W11 (www.armit.co.uk) Ashdown Wines (www.ashdownwines.co.uk) Aske Wine, London (www.askewine.co.uk) Astrum Wine Cellars, Surrey (www.astrumwinecellars.com) Bacchanalia TWS, London (www.bacchanaliatws.co.uk) Bancroft, London SE1 (www.bancroftwines.com) Beaconsfield Wine Cellars, Buckinghamshire (www.beaconsfieldwinecellars.com) Bentleys, Ludlow (www.bentleyswine.com) Berkmann Wine Cellars, London (www.berkmann.co.uk) Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (www.bbr.com) BI Wines & Spirits (www.biwine.com) Bibendum PLB, London NW1 (www.bibendum-wine.co.uk) Big Red Wine Co, Suffolk (www.bigredwine.co.uk) Bonafide Wines, Dorset (01202 485 965) Booths, Preston (www.booths.co.uk) Borough Wines…

My perfect day in Georgia Morning Drive east from Tbilisi towards Kakheti and make your first stop after about an hour at Niki Antadze’s cellar, near Manavi. Antadze is one of Georgia’s most respected natural winemakers, and works with old vines of Mtsvane Kakhuri and Rkatsiteli for his delicious skin-macerated wines (nikiantadze@gmail.com). From there it’s another hour to Sighnaghi, a stunning hilltop town surrounded by prime wine country. John Okruashvili’s handsome cellar is bang in the centre of town, with qvevris buried below the newly constructed tasting rooms (en-gb.facebook.com/okrojohn). Lunch John H Wurdeman V, an American who has lived in Georgia for decades, is one of the key figures in Georgian wine, not only as a winemaker at Pheasant’s Tears but as its enthusiastic ambassador. He and his wife, Keto,…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge Email: ask@decanter.com. Post: The Editor, Decanter , Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London SE1 0SU, UK This month’s experts Benoît Gouez is the cellar master of Champagne Moët & Chandon William Kelley lives and works in Napa Valley and writes for Decanter on California Matt Walls is a freelance wine writer and author with a special interest in the Rhône ‘Châteauneuf is almost certainly the first AC to emboss its bottles – in 1937’ Cork query In July 2015 I bought some Moët NV and 2006 from Majestic and noticed that the cork in the vintage wine was made up of composite material. The NV Moët had the usual cork closure (pictured…

Tasting notes decoded Natural acidity All grapes contain acidity in various forms, the major ones being tartaric and malic acids. The amount of natural acidity found in grapes will vary based on many factors but variety, climate and harvest date play major roles. In a warm climate, acids are metabolised by the grape faster, and as the grape reaches its maturity the natural acidity will drop. Sugar and acidity are some of the main factors used when deciding a picking date. If the natural acidity in the grape is too low, sometimes a winemaker will choose to add acidity to the wine or must, in the form of tartaric acid, in order to create a balanced wine. (Tasting note from p135)…

In brief Koch sale could fetch US$15m A selection of wines from the vast collection of billionaire anti-fakes crusader Bill Koch is expected to fetch up to US$15m when it is sold by Sotheby’s this month. Wines from the Cellar of William I Koch, scheduled for New York on 19-21 May, features more than 20,000 bottles and about 2,700 lots, including more than 125 offerings of Château Latour alone, and numerous other blue-chip wines. Whiskies lift Steinfels sale Rare whisky helped boost takings at Steinfels’ 5 March sale in Zurich, which realised nearly CHF1.3m (£950,000). Bowmore performed strongly among more than 200 whisky lots, while Georges Roumier, Armand Rousseau and top-notch Bordeaux were fine wine highlights. Steinfels reported global interest, despite UK buyers being less active due to sterling’s fall…

Collector’s corner Graham’s 90 £700 Berry Bros & Rudd A blend of tawny Ports from the historic 1935, 1924 and 1912 harvests. Just 500 bottles have been released, to commemorate the 90th birthday of Her Majesty the Queen. Tío Pepe, Fino En Rama 2016 £16 Adnams, Lea & Sandeman, The Wine Society, Tanners Seven years after its UK launch, this cult fino will be released in 19 countries this year. The Last Drop ‘Double Matured’ 50yo Blended Scotch £3,000 Hedonism, The Whisky Exchange More than 50 grain and malt whiskies put in ex-Bourbon casks and ex-oloroso hogsheads. 898 bottles.…

Hammer highlights • Christie’s, London, 17 March: 12 bottles of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC), Romanée Conti 1988 sold for £111,625 (high estimate: £120,000); 12 bottles of Georges et Henri Jayer’s Echézeaux 1995 sold for £25,850 (high e: £15,000); 12 bottles of Armand Rousseau, Chambertin 1993 sold for £17,625 (high e: £15,000); six magnums of Pétrus 1994 sold for £12,925 (high e: £10,000). • Acker Merrall, Hong Kong, 19 March: three magnums of Pétrus 1971 sold for HK$128,440 (high e: HK$144,000); 12 bottles of DRC Assortment 1995 sold for HK$271,700 (high e: HK$320,000); 24 half-bottles of Opus One 1991 sold for HK$32,110 (high e: HK$26,000); 12 bottles of La Mission Haut-Brion 1986 sold for HK$34,580 (high e: HK$26,000); three bottles of DRC Romanée-Conti 2004 sold for HK$247,000 (high e: HK$280,000).…

Chateau Montelena 1973 Calistoga, Napa Valley, California, USA A legend because… This was the wine that dethroned some of the most prestigious white Burgundies at the legendary Judgement of Paris tasting organised by Steven Spurrier in 1976. It came top out of the 10 French and Californian Chardonnays poured blind at the event. Moreover, no fewer than six of the nine French judges awarded Montelena their highest score. After the scores were totted up, it became clear it had won by a sizeable margin. Even more galling, it was a wine that had been made from young vines, confounding the French conviction that vines need to be mature to deliver top-class wine. Looking back Miljenko ‘Mike’ Grgich was a Croatian who in 1958 emigrated to California. There he worked with…