Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2016 i Decanter

FRANCE The 2012 St-Emilion classification should be annulled because of a number of inconsistencies and errors, lawyers for three châteaux have claimed at a hearing in Bordeaux. Representatives of Châteaux Corbin-Michotte, Croque-Michotte and La Tour du Pin Figeac told Bordeaux’s Administrative Tribunal that there had been at least 23 inconsistencies and procedural errors in the run-up to the publication of the new St-Emilion rankings in September 2012. The properties, which launched their complaint in January 2013, claim these errors led to Corbin-Michotte losing its grand cru classé status, and to the refusal to promote the other two châteaux to grand cru. At the hearing, the National Appellations Institute (INAO), which oversaw the classification, and the Conseil des Vins de St-Emilion were asked to explain the alleged errors and inconsistencies. INAO…

While briefly anchored in the French Embassy in Washington for the 10th Anniversary Symposium of the French Wine Society, I enjoyed Zind-Humbrecht’s Pinot Gris 2011 from the Rangen de Thann Grand Cru. Everything I have ever tasted from Olivier Humbrecht MW from this vineyard has been unforgettable, and this was no exception. Dense, weighty and profound, charged with late summer fruits yet charged with so much more than fruit, too: salt, soil, stone – or flavours that make us think of those things. Proof that we have to keep pursuing the great places to make wine, no matter what the cost.…

1 Laurent Lebrun, managing director of Château Olivier in Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux 2 Jean-Christophe Mau of Château Brown, Pessac-Léognan3 Johann Krige, co-owner of Kanonkop Estate, Stellenbosch, South Africa 4 Sue Hodder, chief winemaker at Wynns Coonawarra Estate in South Australia, who led a tasting in the Discovery Theatre 5 Melanie Tesseron of Château Pontet-Canet in Pauillac, Bordeaux discusses her wines in a Masterclass 6 Sandrine Garbay of Château d’Yquem, Sauternes, with Pierre Lurton and technical director Pierre-Olivier Clouet of Château Cheval Blanc in St-Emilion presented a masterclass on the two iconic properties and their wines 7 wine writer and broadcaster Oz Clarke entertained guests and signed copies of his books 8 James Simpson MW, MD of Pol Roger in the UK, and Hubert de Billy, the great-great-grandson of the Champagne house…

1969 Moss Wood bought by Bill Pannell and wife Sandra 1970 Cabernet Sauvignon Old Block planted 1972 Semillon Old Block planted 1973 First vintage; Pinot Noir Old Block planted 1976 Chardonnay planted 1977 First vintage of Pinot Noir 1979 Keith Mugford hired as a winemaker after graduating from Roseworthy College 1983 First commercial release of Chardonnay 1984 Mugford and wife Clare lease Moss Wood from the Pannells 1985 The Mugfords buy Moss Wood outright 1997 First vintage of Cabernet from Glenmore Vineyard that would become Amy’s in 2004 2000 Mugford buys the nearby Ribbon Vale estate 2008 Mugford begins producing Pinot Noir from Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula, but stops doing so in 2010…

Pinotage was created in 1925, when Stellenbosch University’s Professor Abraham Perold crossed Pinot Noir and Cinsault (then commonly called Hermitage, hence the contraction). The conventional wisdom was that he hoped to combine the nobility of the former with the substantial yields of the latter. Only four seeds were produced from the cross, the original plantings leading to an experimental vineyard being created at Elsenburg agricultural college, from which the first Pinotage was made as a trial in 1941. It would take until 1961, however, for the first commercial bottling to appear, this being the Lanzerac 1959.…

Mailly Grand Cru, Blanc de Noirs, Champagne NV 90/100 £40 Marks & Spencer 100% Pinot Noir. Rich and biscuity on the nose, then the palate is full, round and structured with a note of brioche. This is a full-flavoured, harmonious and effervescent Champagne. Drink 2016 Alc 12% La Chablisienne, Côte de Léchet 1er Cru, Chablis Burgundy 2012 89 £20.27 Astrum Wine, Christopher Keiller, Vinatis Subtle bouquet with mineral and citrus notes. Clean, long and structured. Elegant weight and style. Drink 2016-2022 Alcohol 13% La Chablisienne, La Pierrelée, Chablis, Burgundy 2013 87 £13.50-£14.99 (2012) Addison Wines, Astrum Wine, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Hercules Wine Warehouse, The Vinter Floral, acacia bouquet with citrus notes. Pure, ripe and fruity with a refreshing zip of acidity. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 12.5% Cave de Tain, Gambert de…

The future of iconic Champagnes Two different approaches from the chefs de cave of Dom Pérignon and Veuve Clicquot, both part of the LVMH empire, were revealed recently in London at the European launch of their respective 2006s. Dominique Demarville of Veuve Clicquot admitted that La Grande Dame 2006 and its Rosé counterpart had not been blended by him but by his predecessor, the revered Jacques Peters, who retired in 2009. The first vintage of La Grande Dame was 1962, shipped in 1972 in honour of the company’s 200th anniversary, and the 2006 is the 17th in this distinguished line. The blend comes exclusively from the house’s eight classic grands crus – Ambonnay, Aÿ, Bouzy, Verzenay and Verzy for Pinot Noir; Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger for Chardonnay, the 2006…

2012 WAS A warm vintage following two late and cool ones. Cool is a relative term, and many European grape growers would be more than satisfied with the conditions in California in 2010 and 2011. Moreover, many of those wines found favour with European tasters, who enjoyed their freshness, balance and moderate alcohols. Nonetheless, 2012 was a far smoother vintage and ripeness was easily achieved. In Napa the summer was warm, but nights were cool, and there were no searing heat spikes that can easily roast the grapes on the vine. By the end of August maturation levels were about two weeks in advance, promising an early harvest. Merlot yields were a little generous, but Cabernet wines were generally balanced and yields were good if not overly copious, making up…

Far Niente, Oakville, Napa Valley Decanter average score: 96/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Stephen Brook 96 Alex Hunt MW 96 Xavier Rousset MS 96 £119.99-£145 Hailsham Wine Cellars, Harrods, Wineman The justly admired Oakville winery has been a Napa Valley fixture since 1979, when it was founded by the late Gil Nickel. From the outset the winemaker has been Dirk Hampson, though today he keeps a knowing eye on the winery’s young winemaking team. But his steady presence, as well as that of the Nickel family, has ensured a consistency of style over the decades. Today all wines are estate-grown, and the vineyards are close to Martha’s Vineyard and other iconic sites. This wine is aged for 17 months in more than 80% new oak, and is always rich and polished.…

• Gallica, Oakville, Napa Valley I have tasted this wine, always with pleasure and admiration, from the 2008, 2010 and 2011 vintages, so it came as no great surprise that the 2012 showed so well here. It’s an expensive wine, but justifies its price with its classy tannins and delicious fruit. 95/100 Drink 2017-2035 • Mount Eden Vineyards, Santa Cruz Mountains At 460m, up in the Santa Cruz Mountains, Jeff Patterson has long made small quantities of very refined Cabernet – a bit cooler in style than counterparts from Napa. This 2012 has the poise and finesse one has come to expect from this magical site. 93 Drink 2016-2030 • Rocca, Grigsby Vineyard, Yountville, Napa Valley The Rocca family are farmers, enjoying growing success in the wine business, with excellent…

WITH 169 WINES presented to the tasters over two days, it was never going to be easy to spot patterns or trends in the results. Napa wines dominated the top tiers, but they also dominated the tasting, far outnumbering wines from other regions. Indeed it was disappointing not to see more entries from Sonoma or Santa Cruz. The two Outstanding wines were both classically styled Cabernets from the heart of Napa Valley, and the panel certainly admired the way they retained typicity while offering structure, complexity and ageability. There were 30 Highly Recommended wines (18% of the total), some of which fell just short of Outstanding by a whisker. It was a strong endorsement of Napa’s ‘mountain’ wines (Mt Veeder in particular), given that few such wines from here were…

denotes supermarket and high-street wines Lime Rock, Pinot Gris, Waipawa, Central Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 2013 91 £18.75 H2Vin Handpicked grapes from north-facing limestone slopes. Partial barrel fermentation with weekly batonnage, delivering a creamy, weighty leesy mouthfeel. Herbs, spices, lime, clementine and honey notes, and brisk acidity on the long palate. A fine wine for seafood dishes. Alc 14% Bodegas Marañones, Picarana Albillo, Madrid, Spain 2013 90 £17.50 Forest Wine, Hangingditch, Highbury Vintners, Indigo Wine, Prohibition Wines, The Wine Tasting Shop, Winedirect, Yorkshire Vintners This is a terroir-driven Albillo, grown on a high-altitude hillside vineyard in San Martin de Valdeiglesias. Barrel fermented with natural yeast, it’s buttery, round and complex, enhanced by fresh minerality. Alc 14.5% De Martino, Legado Reserva Chardonnay, Limarí, Chile 2014 90 £10.99 Waitrose From one of…

David Galetti learned about restaurants as part of a family tradition, but from a different angle – that of the customer. ‘My father just loved going out to restaurants,’ he says, with a wide grin. ‘And he often took me, and I loved everything about it.’ His introduction to the higher levels of dining came in Paris, where he spent his military service in the kitchens of the presidential Elysée Palace, as did the Roux brothers and many other great French chefs. His next stop was the fabled cellars of La Tour d’Argent, under the legendary David Ridgway, who sent him on to Le Gavroche in 2001. Here he found a home in more ways than one – he married Monica Fa’afiti, who was until recently the senior sous chef…

Morning At the intimate Harbour House hotel* in Niagara-on-the-Lake, one of Ontario’s prettiest little towns, wake up to a luxurious breakfast of freshly made scones, seasonal egg dishes and excellent cappuccino. After a stroll around nearby Paradise Grove Park, head to Hidden Bench (see main text, left). With luck, owner Harald Thiel will be on hand to pour his wines, which are arguably among the finest in Niagara, if not all of Ontario. Next door is Thirty Bench (www.thirtybench.com), highly regarded for its single-vineyard Rieslings and icewine. Views throughout these pastoral parts of the Niagara Escarpment are superb, especially around Pinot Noir producer Flat Rock Cellars (www.flatrockcellars.com). Afternoon For formal lunching, Inn on the Twenty* is outstanding, while next door is a wonderful Inuit arts shop (www.artnunavik.ca). Alternatively, a visit…

Sauvignonasse This variety exemplifies just about all the naming issues that beset grape varieties. Widely known and planted in northeast Italy under the name Friulano (Tocai Friulano until the name was prohibited in 2008 to appease Hungarian producers), this is an old variety from the Gironde region in southwest France. Here it was once grown to a limited extent alongside Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, although DNA profiling has shown that it is not related to Sauvignon Blanc. In Slovenia it may be referred to as Zeleni Sauvignon but one producer, objecting to the Hungarian monopoly on any name resembling Tokaj, uses the brand name Jakot. In Chile, where it is officially known as Sauvignon Vert, there is still confusion between Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignonasse, although the former has long eclipsed…

Ruinart shines a light Champagne Ruinart aims to highlight its expertise with the Chardonnay grape by bringing the inaugural Ruinart Lighthouse – an interactive exhibition – to central London on 8-10 February. The glass exhibition space will house three areas: one charting the history of Ruinart from 1729 to the present day; a second, the Chardonnay room, showing the house’s relationship with the grape variety; and the third a tasting area hosted by chef de cave Frédéric Panaïotis. Ruinart CEO Frédéric Dufour described the event as ‘a tribute to the most elegant grape of Champagne’. Tickets cost £35 and go on sale on www.ruinart.com from 11 January. Admission includes a tasting, with Panaïotis, of Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, Ruinart Rosé NV, Dom Ruinart 2004 and Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002.…

A legend because… Chateau Musar is a distinctive wine, for many years the only one that could demonstrate the potential of the vineyards of Lebanon. It also, in certain vintages, has a remarkable capacity to age. But the vineyards lie within the Bekaa Valley, which frequently became a war zone during Lebanon’s seemingly endless civil strife. With its imperfect infrastructure and relative isolation, Lebanon can never have been an easy place to produce a wine with an eye on the international market, and military and terrorist action between the vineyards and Beirut offered an unwelcome complication. In 1983, the harvest had to be postponed for a month because of fighting in the valley. Only one vintage (1976) had to be abandoned. Looking back Gaston Hochar founded Musar in the 1930s,…

Vintage or non-vintage? It depends what use you plan for your sparkling wine. Italian metodo classico in the non-vintage style, whether from the classic or local varieties, is basically conceived as an aperitif wine. It will be dry and crisp, but at the same time not necessarily over-simple. DOCG regulations impose a minimum 15 months on the lees for Trento and 18 months for Franciacorta, so there will be body that you do not find in a Charmat-method bubbly. Top houses like Ferrari in Trento and Cà del Bosco in Franciacorta also give a lot of attention to their entry-level wines, so it is unlikely that you will ever be disappointed. Having said all that, to really get the buzz, my advice would be to trade up into the vintage…

Alois Lageder, Benefizium Porer, Pinot Grigio 2014 91 £17 Exel Wines Minerally and savoury – so different from the cliché. Beautifully textured and fresh. Drink 2016-2020 Alcohol 13% Nusserhof, BÉÉ., Vino Bianco 2011 91 £17 (2012) Amazon.co.uk Pure quince fruit and lemon peel, this has zingy acidity, and is both linear and ripe. Drink 2016-2026 Alc 12% Schreckbichl Colterenzio, Praedium, Puiten Pinot Grigio 2014 91 £13.20 Amazon.co.uk Brilliant straw yellow. Beautiful peach and spice with a touch of oak and grapefruit. Feather-light and succulent. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13.5% Franz Gojer, Glögglhof, Kerner, Karneid 201390 N/A UK www.gojer.it Piercing, fresh lemon and pineapple flavours. This is both crisp and long. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14.5% Elena Walch, Castel Ringberg Pinot Grigio 2014 90 £17.45 Amazon.co.uk, Bancroft Elegant oatmeal and white fruit. Very…

Filippi, Vigne del Bra, Colli Scaligeri 2013 95/100 £16.99-£17.99 Solent Cellar, Vini Italiani At 380m, this 70-year-old single vineyard is one of the Soave’s highest. Rosemary and lavender notes; hints of a not-so-acid Savennieres on the palate. Restrained; brilliant. Drink 2016-2019 Alcohol 12.5% Gini, La Frosca, Classico 2013 95 £15.46 Justerini & Brooks It’s easy to remember that Venice isn’t far away when you taste this wine, with its exotic spices and Mediteranean herbs – it is sweetly fruity and silky in texture. High, taut acidity and a sense of elevation. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13% Pieropan, Classico 2014 93 £12.95-£16.95 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Drinkmonger, Harrods, Lea & Sandeman, Satchells of Burnham Market, Stainton Wines, Villeneuve Wines There is a curious, engaging but subtle salty quality to the Soaves I enjoy…

Morning After breakfast at the peaceful Colli di Poianis agriturismo*, drive 15 minutes into Cividale del Friuli. Perched on a ravine created by the river Natisone, Cividale is crammed full of medieval history, plus some excellent shopping opportunities. Energised by a mid-morning café in Cividale’s main square, drive to Ronchi di Cialla, set in one of the Colli Orientali’s prettiest valleys. You’ll meet the Rapuzzi family, the saviours of Schioppettino from obscurity and producers of some of the best wines in the region. Lunch From here it’s a short hop to the village of Prepotto, to refuel at Trattoria da Mario*. Your only challenge is to exercise enough restraint to justify dinner later on. Afternoon After lunch, drive 30 minutes to San Floriano, high in the Collio hills. Il Carpino…

Look for Sorbara if you like your sparkling wines dry and zingy. Grasparossa is a mellower, softer fruity style, and Salamino a deep, juicy expression of Lambrusco. The label will state the quality level. Frizzante Made using the charmat method; a low CO2 level, offering between 1 and 2.5 bars of pressure at 20ºC, so only very lightly sparkling. Spumante Mostly made by the charmat method, though some use the traditional method. Pressure is a minimum 3 bars at 20ºC, so more sparkle than in the frizzante wines. Ancestrale The residual sugar post-fermentation causes refermentation in the bottle, leaving some yeast at the bottom of the bottle. Serve cloudy to enhance the aromas of yeast. Amabile Meaning off-dry, with around 30g-40g of sugar per litre, this is the style that…

THIS MONTH SEES three significant changes in the magazine and on Decanter.com. Firstly, after much deliberation, we have moved to a 100-point scoring system. I expect this might initially irritate – and possibly even enrage – some readers. But our research conclusively tells us that most of you will welcome it. It is not the first time we have changed scoring methodologies. Our pioneering panel tastings began with the five-star rating system, which was replaced by the 20-point scale. More recently, we added ratings out of 100 points to reflect and respond to our growing international reach and reader base. It is now abundantly clear that the 100-point scale has become the accepted and most commonly used system in the world. Taking that into account, we believe this is the…

‘Next-Gens’ to boost US wine consumption USA The number of regular wine drinkers in the US could reach 110 million by 2025, boosted by younger ‘Next-Gen’ consumers, according to a new study. About 93 million people in the US – about 40% of the adult population – are classed as regular wine drinkers, but that figure could reach 109 million within the next decade, reported Wine Intelligence. The research company described a shift in emphasis from today’s ‘Millennial’ generation of young drinkers to ‘Next-Generation’ or Next-Gen consumers, who were born in or after 1995. As these people reach legal drinking age, they are set to play an increasingly influential role in the wine market, with 22.7 million Next-Gens drinking wine regularly by 2025. The report said Next-Gen consumers shared Millennials’…

FOLLOWING THE VALUE Rioja panel tasting in your March 2015 issue, I was keen to get hold of the top-scoring Baron de Ley, Reserva 2010. Inevitably, after such rave reviews, my local Co-operative had sold out. But when I popped into the store recently I spotted a single bottle on the shelf and snapped it up. The panel had unanimously ranked this the best wine of the nearly 100 tasted. But I wasn’t overly impressed with it. It was pleasant enough, but Outstanding (95+)? What was I missing? Since the experts had scored it so highly, it temporarily caused me to question my ability to recognise and appreciate a good wine. Perhaps with age (I am 63) my palate had deteriorated? The article ‘Age and your Palate’ in the same…

IT GETS HARDER all the time to decide whether I want my Cabernet Sauvignon to come from Chile, Tuscany, Margaret River, Virginia, Canada… or just boring old Bordeaux. One part of me wants to stay in my comfort zone and keep up with old favourites; another says: ‘You old stick-in-the-mud. Get out there in the action!’ Can Bangalore pull it off? Can Okanagan? I’m duty bound, aren’t I, to investigate the latest bottles? Taste the wine, certainly; but when it comes to actual drinking… No wonder the older generation clings on tight to nurse. There are still London clubs where ‘nurse’ is not a bad analogy. In one, 90% of the red wine members drink comes from Bordeaux (and the Left Bank at that). I’ve just been at a tasting…

White wines Chablis 2014 is a vintage for lovers of classic Chablis, with wines showing young fresh fruit and nuances of iodine coupled with a well-chiselled palate. There are plenty of superb wines with great intensity but also real elegance. Many premier cru and grand cru Chablis deserve to be left alone for a few years as they will provide great rewards for those with patience. (Gerard Basset) Meursault There were a large number of excellent wines, with an ample display of the minerality that seemed to have been replaced by butteriness two decades ago, but which is strongly in evidence now from the best growers on the best sites. At the top level, there will be long-lived wines with a classic profile. (Stephen Brook) Puligny-Montrachet Clarity of fruit and…

Stony Hill, Chardonnay 2007 95/100 N/A UK www.stonyhillvineyard.com Sweet and fresh with pure lime aromas. Honeysuckle and peach on the palate with flinty minerality, dancing acidity and top notes of exotic spice. Precise and utterly delicious. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 13% Smith-Madrone, Riesling 2013 92 £22.99 Roberson Orange blossom nose with hints of gasoline then white flowers on the palate and developing peach and pear fruit. Bone-dry minerality will soften. Curiously charming. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 12.6% Cain Vineyard & Winery, Cain Five 2010 95 N/A UK www.cainfive.com Creamy, savoury, opulent nose with coffee notes. Young, tenacious tannins, almost overripe plum fruit, then flavours of graphite, sour cherry and orange zest. Racy acidity; exotic and perfumed. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 13.9% Lokoya, Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 95 £232 Hedonism Almost raisined nose leading to…

Moss Wood, Chardonnay 2013 91/100 £22.46 Jeroboams Bright, vibrant apricot nose. Fresh attack, then suave and rounded – a complex, spicy style with discreet oak. Has intensity and flair on the long finish. Drink 2016-2020 Alcohol 14% Moss Wood, Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2013 90 £11.76 Jeroboams Attractive grassy nose: brisk and lively with some fat and richness from the 30% Semillon. Full-bodied and juicy (but not heavy) apple and apricot fruit with a sweet, weighty finish. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13.5% Moss Wood, Semillon 2014 90 £12.66 Jeroboams, Waitrose Discreet melon and pear nose. Fresh palate with upfront fruit and good concentration. A ripe and juicy style that will take on more complexity with time. Quite long. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 13.5% Moss Wood, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 93 £52.36 Jeroboams Reserved nose of…

Kanonkop, Black Label, Stellenbosch 2013 96/100 £110-£170 Berry Bros & Rudd, Lay & Wheeler, Raisin Social From a 61-year-old vineyard. A monumental wine with red and black cherry and berry fruit, notes of fynbos (like the garrigue of southern France), spice and earth. The huge concentration of fruit is offset by a great line of acidity and firm but fine tannins. Every serious wine lover needs to try the Black Label at least once. Drink 2016-2035 Alcohol 14.5% Rijk’s, Reserve, Tulbagh 2012 96 £25-£35 Booths, Hangingditch, Highbury Vintner, SA Wine Online, Vin Cognito, Vineking The nose has a fynbos top note before red and black fruit, vanilla and spice, plus a little earthiness. Lean and tight, but super-concentrated. Lovely balance and length. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14.5% Kanonkop, Stellenbosch 2013 95…

Cantina Terlan, Quarz Sauvignon Blanc, Alto Adige 2013 93/100 £39-£46 AG Wines, Astrum Wine, Farr Vintners, Highbury Vintners, Woodwinters Deep, pure and concentrated – a rare example of oaked Sauvignon that is more than the sum of its parts. Superb. Drink 2016-2025 Alcohol 14% Cantina Tramin, Nussbaumer Gewurztraminer, Alto Adige 2013 93 £24.50-£32 Corking Wines, Drinkmonger, The Drink Shop Rich, deep and complex. A Gewurz that can stand up to the best from Alsace, but in a much drier style. Drink 2016-2023 Alc 14% Cantina St Michael-Eppan, Sanct Valentin Sauvignon, Alto Adige 2013 92 £25-£31 Christopher Keiller, Eurowines, Ministry of Drinks Sage, yellow melon and green fig notes – rich and suave. A serious Sauvignon, between the oakiness of Pouilly-Fumé and the grassiness of New Zealand. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14%…

Bolney Estate, Cuvée Noir Brut, England 2011 90/100 £23-£25 Davy’s, Grape & Grain, Noble Green, Quaff, Wine Pantry A fizz that’s 100% from the red Dornfelder grape, from England’s sixth commercial vineyard, in West Sussex. Ripe blackberry fruit and a nice dry finish. Drink 2016-2017 Alcohol 12% Quinta de Couselo, Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain 2014 91 £14.95-£18.95 H2Vin, Harrods, The Old Bridge Wine Shop With local grapes Caiño Blanco, Loureiro and Treixadura making up 10% of the blend and bottled after six months on lees, this has florality and textured complexity. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13% Clos Bagatelle, Le Clos de Ma Mère, St-Chinian, France 2014 89 £21 Boutinot, Woodwinters A marvellous blend of 60-year-old Carignan Blanc on limestone, 15-year old Roussanne on sandstone and 50-year-old Grenache Blanc on schist, richly…

While the forward fruit friendliness of this vintage appealed to our judges, the lack of complexity and ‘made by the hand, not by the land’ quality did not. Christelle Guibert reports on a fascinating tasting When one of the world’s greatest grape varieties from one of the world’s great wine regions is put to the test, expectations are naturally high and this 2012 tasting led to a thought-provoking debate. ‘Californian wine is booming, but it’s not because of Napa Cabernet’ Xavier Rousset MS While the US press praised the 2012s, it was different on this side of the Atlantic. ‘There were some lovely wines, but too many tasted the same,’ noted Stephen Brook. He feared the style harkened back to the old days of high alcohols and soft textures: ‘The…

Oakville Ranch, Oakville, Napa Valley 94 SB 94 AH 93 XR 94 N/A UK www.oakvilleranch.com Very well-tuned nose, with glossy black fruit and a nice mineral freshness alongside. Rich and suave, very concentrated palate that is spicy and taut with quite high acidity. This has drive and tension, and a good future. Long and harmonious. Drink 2016-2035 Alc 15.2% Brandlin, Estate, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley 93 SB 92 AH 93 XR 93 £36-£38 Swig, Thorman Hunt Blue fruits and graphite with a muted, roasted aroma. Rich and succulent palate with no rough edges, and very fine-grained tannins providing structure. Spicy, complex and very long with a currant concentration. Impressive with a great future. Drink 2016-2030 Alc 14.5% Rocca, Grigsby Vineyard, Yountville, Napa Valley 92 SB 92 AH 94 XR 90…

• Far Niente, Oakville, Napa Valley This is focused, with beautiful depth and elegance – a real class act from California. And it will only get better if you have enough willpower to put it away for a few years. 96/100 Drink 2016-2035 • Gallica, Oakville, Napa Valley I have never before come across this relatively new label, but it is a really impressive discovery. Very driven and stylish, harmoniously filled with all the assets Napa has to offer. It will reward your patience. 95 Drink 2017-2035 • Mt Brave, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley I have tasted several wines from this estate over the last few years, and I always enjoy the polished style – the wines are great value too when it comes to Napa Cab! As much as…

I FEEL A bit like a groupie who, despite criticism, has always championed her rather alternative band, sensing that the best is yet to come. In the not too-distant past, many South African wines were rather disjointed, clumsy affairs, but over the past five years they have acquired real tone and personality. There is now a poise and harmony that many people could never have envisaged, even in the euphoria of Nelson Mandela’s release in 1990. Ungoverned by the kind of rules that regulate (should that be restrict?) their Old World cousins, younger South African winemakers are beginning to draw on a wonderfully diverse range of grape varieties to create some new and very exciting white wines. Many blends benefit from the inclusion of fruit from rediscovered plots of unirrigated…

10 International, Surrey (www.10international.com) AC Gallie, Jersey (www.acgallie.com) Addison Wines, London SW11 (www.addisonwines.com) Adnams Southwold, Suffolk (www.adnams.co.uk) AG Wines, London (www.agwines.com) All About Wine (www.allaboutwine.co.uk) Amathus Wines & Spirits, London (www.amathusdrinks.com) Amazon (www.amazon.co.uk) Appellation Nation, Gloucestershire (www.appellationnation.co.uk) Appellation Wines, Edinburgh (www.appellationwines.co.uk) Armit Wines, London W11 (www.armit.co.uk) Asda (www.direct.asda.com) Astrum Wine Cellars, Surrey (www.astrumwinecellars.com) Bay Tree Wine Co, Cardiff (www.baytreewine.com) Bennetts Wines, Gloucestershire (www.bennettsfinewines.com) Bentleys Wine Merchants, Ludlow (www.bentleyswine.com) Berkmann Wine Cellars, London (www.berkmann.co.uk) Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (www.bbr.com) Bibendum PLB, London NW1 (www.bibendum-wine.co.uk) Bon Coeur Fine Wines, North Yorkshire (www.bcfw.co.uk) Booths, Preston (www.booths.co.uk) Bottle Apostle, London (www.bottleapostle.com) Boutinot Wines, Cheshire (www.boutinot.com) C&O Wines (www.cowines.com) Cadman Fine Wines, Northampton (www.cadmanfinewines.co.uk) Cambridge Wine Merchants (www.cambridgewine.com) Cape London (www.capelondon.co.uk) Carruthers & Kent, Tyne & Wear (www.carruthersandkent.com) Cheers Wine Merchants, Swansea (www.cheers-wine-merchants.co.uk)…

Hotels Harbour House, Niagara-on-the-Lake Just two blocks from the Niagara River, this is an opulent yet idyllic hotel. The Conservatory’s breakfast is unrivalled, boasting the finest local produce. Small wine tastings are held every afternoon. www.niagarasfinest.com Hilton Garden Inn, Niagara-on-the-Lake Located right off the main highway, a comfortable and reliable address for the budget-minded. Ideal for travellers with children. www.hiltongardeninn.com Inn on the Twenty, Jordan Not far from some of the finest estates on the Niagara Escarpment, with a great restaurant and an enviable reputation, it’s a good alternative base to Niagara-on-the-Lake. Next door is Cave Spring Cellars, one of the older wineries on the peninsula; the fizz and top dry whites are superb. www.innonthetwenty.com Prince of Wales, Niagara-on-the-Lake Marvellous Victorian-era hotel located in the heart of Niagara-on-the-Lake. A favourite…

Fermenting whole bunches rather than individual berries can give freshness to wine in warm years, reduce total acidity in cool years, and can add tannin and increase the body too. Whole bunches are always picked by hand, as mechanical harvest is not possible. Once harvested the stems are not removed and the whole bunches are put into a tank to start fermenting. Some bunches at the bottom of the tank may undergo partial carbonic maceration, which will increase colour, without additional tannin being extracted. If the stems are ripe then green tannins do not necessarily become a problem, and can make for a rounder, silkier wine. The addition of whole bunches is not guaranteed to make a successful product, and in some cases unripe stems, or too many whole clusters…

Sandeman 225th anniversary set £70 SH Jones, Slurp, St Swithin’s Lane, Vin Neuf You can buy each of these limited-edition bottles of the 2000 vintage Port, or the six-label set (£400). Hine 1985 Early-Landed Cognac £335, Fortnum & Mason, Master of Malt A vintage Cognac that has been matured in damp British cellars, yielding a spirit that differs from one left to age in Hine’s Jarnac home. Powerful but poised. Bodegas Riojanas, Monte Real Rioja Reserva 2010 £84.95 Harrods The 125th anniversary celebrations of this estate yielded this special release. A characterful and dense blend of fruit, liquorice and chocolate.…

ITALY IS AMONG the global leaders for organic vine growing. More than 10% of its national vineyard is certified organic or biodynamic – a similar level to its European rivals France, Spain, Germany and Austria. Sicily and Calabria in the deep south lead the way for organic cultivation, since the hot climate makes such growing schemes relatively easy; followed by Tuscany, where a plethora of middle-aged couples who are making a second career out of lifestyle wine production have chosen the organic path. Biodynamics is less well advanced in Italy than in France, however, and few blue-chip estates have taken the plunge, one exception being Elisabetta Foradori (see p6). Arguably this is due to a lack of experienced consultants to soothe the producers’ nerves during the potentially tricky, several year-long…

Ferrari, Giulio Ferrari, Riserva del Fondatore, Brut, Trento 2004 98 £73.49-£89 AG Wines, Great Western Wine, Exel Wines, Made In Sicily, The Fine Wine Company, Vini Italiani Lovely bright shade and infinite length in the perlage. Lightly toasty on the nose at first, then classic Trento citrus and fresh apple. Concentrated flavours on the palate, very firm structure, serious, complex and deep. Lovely return of fruit on the finish. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 13% Ca’ del Bosco, Franciacorta Riserva, Cuvée Annamaria Clementi 2006 97 £77 FortyFive10, illésima Wonderful freshness and elegant complexity on the nose, with delicate but precise notes of ripe yellow fruit. The palate has a delicous, light and airy texture, but firm underlying structure, with crisp apple and almonds on the finish. Exquisite. AM Clementi in a great…

Serralunga d’Alba Prapò Powerful wines, firm tannins, typical Serralunga terroir. Best producers: Ettore Germano, Ceretto, Mauro Sebaste, Schiavenza Margheria More fragrant and less tannic than a typical Serralunga Barolo. Massolino, Luigi Pira, Azelia Parafada Classic Serralunga power and structure; built for the long haul. Massolino, Palladino, Poderi Sori Meriame Rich black fruit, firm tannins; powerful Serralunga style that ages well. Paolo Manzone, Sukula Lazzarito Big tannic structure, pepper and tar notes; austere wines requiring lengthy ageing. Casa E Mirafiore, Vietti, Sergio Germano Riserva, Guido Porro: Lazzairasco, Santa Caterina Monforte d’Alba Ginestra Typical Monforte power and firm tannins along with expressive red fruit. Elio Grasso, Conterno Fantino, Cascina Chicco Novello Ravera Elegant, fresh, graceful Barolos in a Burgundian style. Elvio Cogno, Vietti, Giovanni Sordo Castiglione Falletto Villero Minerality and floral notes;…

The Masciarelli estate, near Chieti in Abruzzo, was founded by the legendary Gianni Masciarelli in 1978. Inspired by his vision of showcasing the culture and tradition of Abruzzo through his wines, the winery has continued to expand steadily with several hundred hectares of vineyards and olive groves. Among Masciarelli’s specialties are high quality expressions of the local native grapes varieties, Montepulciano and Trebbiano, which are continuously acclaimed wines, a unique achievement in the wine industry today. The Masciarelli Winery is headquartered in the small village of San Martino Sulla Marrucina, Chieti, which serves as the perfect area for the production of Abruzzo wines due to its unique soil and climate conditions. The area is half way between the Adriatic Sea and the Majella massif, with mineral-rich soil at varying levels…

Accommodation Agriturismo Colli di Poianis, Prepotto Maura and Gabriele offer generously sized apartments in a peaceful location just a few kilometres away from Prepotto. You’ll sample Maura’s baking and passion for local, artisanal foods at breakfast. A wine tasting and tour of the estate is also highly recommended. www.collidipoianis.it Agriturismo Paraschos, San Floriano del Collio Set in a wonderful location overlooking the vineyards of San Floriano del Collio, these modern, stylish and spacious rooms are directly above the estate’s cellars. Don’t miss the Paraschos family’s excellent wines, including some made in amphorae along the same lines as Josko Gravner’s. www.paraschos.it Relais Lis Neris, San Lorenzo Isontino Situated in the middle of Friuli Isonzo, in the small village of San Lorenzo Isontino, an old farm courtyard has been lovingly restored by…

Cavicchioli, San Prospero One of the most iconic wineries and key among Lambrusco pioneers, Cavicchioli was established in 1928. Its famed Vigna del Cristo, made from the vineyard in San Prospero which it shares with the Paltrinieri family, has led the way and inspired a new generation of winemakers. Today the winery, led by Sandro Cavicchioli, has a stunning, award-winning range of wines, that shows Sorbara in a more elegant and softer way. www.cavicchioli.it Corte Manzini, Castelvetro This family-run winery, has very old Grasparossa vines (up to 70 years old) trained using the traditional Bellussi canopy system – expensive but the best way to achieve the highest quality. The focus of Enrico Manzini is not only on quality wines but also packaging the wines for a new generation in exciting,…

Val delle Corti 2013 96 N/A UK www.valdellecorti.it Pale, with bright reflections, delicate but beautifully defined on the nose with violets, red cherry and a hint of powder puff. Long, intense, tangy, pure Sangiovese palate with a lightly spiced-salty finish. Impeccable. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13% Caparsa, Caparsino Riserva 2011 96 £23.50 (2006) Les Caves de Pyrène Mid-ruby shade, rich and plummy on the nose, with a background of pine, eucalyptus and iris. Great texture and balance on the palate, dense but super-fine tannins, deeply ingrained fruit. A touch austere now, but has a great future. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 13.5% Le Miccine 2013 95 £20.30 WoodWinters Beautiful, bright mid-ruby robe and an elegant nose of red cherry and rose petals. Quiet on the palate, but the extraction is perfectly judged and…

Boscarelli, Il Nocio 2010 97/100 £42.06 Lay & Wheeler Single vineyard named after a walnut tree (‘nocio’). Oldest vines planted in 1973 using heritage budwood. Perfect southeast exposure. Vines on three main soil types, each farmed differently so the flavours are wide-ranging, the fruit sumptuous, compressed yet silky smooth. Drink 2016-2025 Alcohol 14.5% Boscarelli 2012 95 £17.46 Lay & Wheeler A benchmark Vino Nobile showing ripeness and density but poise and levity, too. Worth opening a day before you drink it to let it express its range of ruddy red cherry, violet and wild strawberry flavours. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 14.5% Avignonesi 2012 93 £23 The Oxford Wine Co, WoodWinters Punchy Vino Nobile with the emphasis on bright, red cherry fruit all the way through the wine with a light…

UK Taittinger is set to become the first Champagne house to produce English sparkling wine as part of its new Domaine Evremond venture in Kent. The family-owned company has joined forces with UK importer Hatch Mansfield and a group of private investors to purchase the 69-hectare site, a former apple farm near Chilham, close to Canterbury and Faversham. The new venture at Stone Stile Farm will involve the planting of 40ha of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier on south-facing chalky slopes of up to 80m above sea level. ‘We have dreamed for a number of years of working with our dear friends in the UK to create a special Franco-British project,’ said Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, president of Champagne Taittinger. ‘We are very excited that this dream is now becoming a…

US Marshals have been selling off nearly 5,000 authenticated bottles of fine wine previously owned by counterfeiter Rudy Kurniawan, including an array of rare Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne. Net proceeds from the sale will be returned to the victims of Kurniawan, who is serving a 10-year jail sentence, but has continued to appeal against his conviction. Historic Loire Valley sparkling wine producer Bouvet-Ladubay has returned to the ownership of the Monmousseau family after a gap of more than 40 years. The family reacquired 100% of the shares in the business from India’s United Spirits, now controlled by spirits giant Diageo. United Spirits had acquired the company after its unsuccessful attempt to buy Champagne Taittinger in 2006. Would-be winemakers can win the chance to learn the secrets of six Bordeaux producers…

I COULD HARDLY believe what I was seeing. The tourists weren’t simply visiting these vineyards: they were besieging them. Queues formed at the gates; the car parks overflowed. Gales of laughter rose from picnic parties; vacant posts at the tasting counter were filled with piranha-like speed. Closing time? Merely a change of gear, as brides and their teams of photographers stormed the lawns, and wedding guests spilled out of limos and buses. Welcome to Virginia’s Wine Month (October – though it’s barely quieter in the other 11). You might think this is a dream come true for winemakers. And it is: no one in Virginia needs to struggle for exports, or make sales tours of the other 49 states. But listen to Rutger de Vink of RdV Vineyards, who wants…

IN NOVEMBER 2014, while talking to my old friend Serge Hochar of Chateau Musar (see p114) in Shanghai, I promised that I would finally visit him in Beirut. For years Serge had been telling me about Lebanon’s historic place in the wine world; how vines had been grown there for more than six millennia, and how his French family had settled there centuries ago after the Crusades. In October 2015, I kept my promise. But sadly, I was unable to visit Serge, who died suddenly in December 2014. My visit was the most bittersweet wine trip I’ve ever made. Serge had been part of my life for more than 30 years. When I arrived at Decanter in 1985, the Decanter Man of the Year award had just been inaugurated, and…

AS IN SO many recent vintages, 2014 produced many excellent wines. Yet it was far from an easy growing season. Conditions got off to a good start: spring was warm and dry, leading to a fairly early budbreak and an uneventful flowering in early June throughout Burgundy. But later that month the problems began. On 28 June a hailstorm, as in 2012 and 2013, tore through the Côte de Beaune, causing huge damage in villages such as Volnay, Pommard, Meursault and Beaune. The renowned vineyards of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet largely escaped, although some problems during flowering here did lower the crop. The Côte de Nuits was much less affected, but still there were growers who experienced considerable damage. Not all vineyards within each commune were affected by hail, but nevertheless…

Chablis Domaine Raveneau, Christian Moreau, Louis Michel, Simonnet-Febvre, Jean-Paul et Benoît Droin, Michel Laroche, Domaine Henri, William Fèvre, Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, Jean-Marc Brocard, Billaud-Simon, Long-Depaquit, Daniel Dampt, Alain et Cyril Gautheron, Domaine de Vauroux, Chanson Père et Fils Côte de Nuits Gevrey-Chambertin Armand Rousseau, Pierre Damoy, Duroché, Henri Magnien, Domaine Gallois, Marc Roy, Geantet-Pansiot, Harmand-Geoffroy, Denis Mortet, Rossignol-Trapet, Sylvie Esmonin, Domaine Heresztyn, Albert-Bichot Chambolle-Musigny Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Georges Roumier, Comte Georges de Vogüé, Ghislaine Barthod, Joseph Drouhin Morey-St-Denis Domaine Arlaud, Dujac, Domaine des Lambrays, Clos de Tart, Frédéric Magnien, Stéphane Magnien, Chantal Rémy, Domaine Ponsot, Taupenot-Merme, Camille Giroud, Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanée Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, D’Eugénie, Domaine Leroy, Méo-Camuzet, Cécile Tremblay, Anne Gros, Michel Gros, Domaine Jean Tardy, Emmanuel Rouget, Comte Ligier-Belair, Mongeard-Mugneret, Confuron-Cotetidot Nuits-St-Georges Henri Gouges, Domaine de l’Arlot, Faiveley,…

Area under vine 405ha Number of wineries 30 Location Northern and eastern slopes of the Mayacamas range Elevation 120m-800m Grapes planted More than half is Cabernet Sauvignon (225ha), the rest Merlot (77ha), Cabernet Franc (18ha), Petite Sirah (11ha), Chardonnay (21ha), Sauvignon Blanc (10ha); plus small parcels (less than 10ha) of Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Zinfandel, Malbec, Viognier Soils Shallow volcanic and sedimentary rock: primarily volcanic in the north, and sandstone and shale to the south. Well-drained, acidic, poor in nutrients, on steep slopes with very varied orientation Total production Between 60,000 and 120,000 cases depending on yield.…

OTHER THAN SURFING, there wasn’t much happening in Margaret River until 1966, when a report by viticulturist Dr John Gladstones confirmed the region was potentially ideal for growing noble varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. This report inspired some Perth families to buy land there and plant vineyards. They included businessman Denis Horgan (Leeuwin Estate) and three doctors: Kevin Cullen (Cullen’s), Tom Cullity (Vasse Felix) and Bill Pannell (Moss Wood). All these estates had vines in the ground by the end of the 1960s. Today Margaret River is a tourist mecca, with beaches and breweries, restaurants and pubs, as well as numerous wineries to draw in visitors. Keith Mugford, Moss Wood’s current owner, points out that planting a vineyard in the 1960s was not a scientific enterprise. ‘Bill and Sandra Pannell…

THOSE KEEPING A close watch on the South African wine scene will have noted the very fine own-label wines from David and Nadia Sadie, the couple at the forefront of the new-generation winemakers. Additionally, David Sadie recently took up a winemaker post at the Swartland property Paardebosch. There’s a vineyard of Pinotage planted between 1991 and 1993 on granite here, so if he hadn’t been inclined to work with this controversial Cape crossing before (see box right), he was soon compelled to. His maiden 2014 vintage for Paardebosch is exciting: 15% whole-bunch fermentation and maturation lasting 19 months in older French oak. There’s also 10% of Shiraz in the blend, and it’s a refreshing 12.5% alcohol. Contrast this with the Redhill Pinotage from Simonsig. This Stellenbosch property was founded in…

Agrícola Castellana, Cuatro Rayas Viñedos Centenarios Verdejo, Rueda 2014 91/100 £8.29-£8.50 All About Wine, Drinkmonger, ThirtyFifty A co-op showcasing its finest in 100% old-vine Verdejo. All the concentration of lime acidity with the keynote edge of Verdejo bitterness and a slight spice of crystallised ginger. Drink 2016-2017 Alcohol 13% Bodegas del Rosario, Niño de las Uvas Macabeo-Malvasia, Bullas 2014 88 £12 Laithwaites Macabeo (Viura) with aromatic Malvasia. Rich, creamy palate with delicate smoky notes from fermentation in French oak, balancing an overlay of white flowers. Delightfully fresh from fruit grown at higher altitudes. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 14% Bodegas Martín Códax, Mara Martín Godello, Monterrei 2013 88 £9-£11 Bay Tree Wine, Carruthers & Kent, North & South, Reserve Wine, The Good Wine Shop, The Secret Cellar, Vino Wines, Woodwinters Albariño is…

Some people believe that ‘giving your liver a rest’ by abstaining from alcohol for a month or so is beneficial. In fact, there’s no science to support this practice, nor does it make sense physiologically. The liver can metabolise a small and steady amount of alcohol without difficulty. If you think you need to take a month off, you’re either drinking too much during the rest of the year or you have a guilty conscience. But giving up alcohol will, all other things being equal, result in a modest weight loss. Foregoing one 175ml glass of wine a day for a month will save you the caloric equivalent of 0.5kg of weight.…

Long Meadow Ranch Winery 738 Main Street, St. Helena. CA. 94574 Tel: +1 707 963 4555 www.longmeadowranch.com UK agent : Enotria Wine Cellars Tel: +44 (0)20 8961 5161 Groth Vineyards & Winery PO Box 390, 750 Oakville Cross Road, Oakville, CA 94562 Tel: 707 944 0290 E: info@grothwines.com www.GrothWines.com Pine Ridge Vineyards 5901 Silverado Trail, Napa CA 94558 www.pineridgevineyards.com Tel: +1 707 253 7500 UK distributor: customerservices@libertywines.co.uk Rocca Family Vineyards 129 Devlin Road, Napa, CA 94558 Tel: 707 690 7525 Winery: 707 257 8467 www.roccawines.com Oakville Ranch Winery P.O. Box 427, Oakville CA. 94562 Tel: +1 707 944 9665 www.oakvilleranch.com Trefethen Family Vineyards 1160 Oak Knoll Avenue, Napa CA. 94558 www.Trefethen.com UK agent: Daniel Lambert Wines Ltd www. daniellambertwines.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)1656 61010…

Stephen Brook Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and is the Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chair for USA. The author of more than 30 books, his works include the awarded Wines of California and Finest Wines of California. Brook’s verdict ‘I expected pure pleasure from this ripe vintage, and in many cases that is what I found. But the vintage also saw a return to the bad old ways that were temporarily abandoned in 2010 and 2011, when cooler conditions enforced a less sumptuous style than usual. By this I mean that the 2012s can show excessive ripeness and low acidity, leading to soft textures and a lack of structure. That’s fine for a fairly basic wine designed for early drinking, but for a £80…

Beringer 2000 Main Street St. Helena CA 94574 T: 866-708-9463 T: 707-257-5771 www.beringer.com Gallica PO Box 808 St. Helena California, United States 94574 Tel: +1 707 963 1096 www.gallicawine.com E: info@gallicawine.com Duckhorn Vineyards 1000 Lodi Lane, St. Helena, CA. 94574 Brian Bostwick - Export Sales Manager Tel: (925) 322-3955 E: bbostwick@duckhorn.com www.duckhorn.com Clos Du Val 5330 Silverado Trail, Napa, CA 94558 T: +1 800-820-1972 E: cdv@closduval.com www.closduval.com UK agent: Boutinot Ltd, Tel +44 (0)161 908 1300 Mt. Brave Wines P.O. Box 328, Oakville, CA 94562 T: 866-715-1993 info@mtbravewines.com www.mtbravewines.com St. Supéry Estate Vineyards & Winery Rutherford, CA. Tel: 1.707.963.4507 E: divinecab@stsupery.com www.stsupery.com UK Importer Laytons Wine Merchants Ltd. Tel: +44 (0)20 7288 8880 E: sales@laytons.co.uk www.laytons.co.uk…

• Diamond Creek, Volcanic Hill, Napa Valley This is a true classic thanks to its distinctive, site-specific personality and immunity to winemaking fads – the opposite of so many flashy early-drinkers. It will reveal its true nobility as it unwinds over the years. 96/100 Drink 2016-2032 • Vellum, Napa Valley A relatively new producer – this is the sixth vintage – with the explicit goal of producing a lower-alcohol, more old-fashioned style, built to age. On the basis of this showing, it’s mission accomplished. Napa as it used to be. 96 Drink 2016-2028 • Corison, Napa Valley 2012 Staying true to her notions of balance during the ripeness boom, Cathy Corison is the champion of elegance and proportion in Napa. She consistently proves – contrary to fashion – that fresher…

Sadie Family, Palladius, Swartland 2013 96/100 £38.46-£57.40 Handford, Lay & Wheeler, Noel Young, Philglas & Swiggot, Swig, Woodwinters Toned and sinewy: real purity of expression. Delicate jasmine with a mineral background, followed by complex yellow fruit that fills the palate but is driven by dynamic acidity. Lithe, sleek and exciting. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 14.5% Sadie Family, Old Vine Series ‘T Voetpad, Swartland 2013 96 £33-£45 Fortnum & Mason, Handford, Hedonism, Philglas & Swiggot, Swig, Woodwinters Old-wine field blend that harmonises orange blossom, honey, white peach and other natural flavours, including beeswax. Balanced by dynamic acidity with a very long, graceful finish. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 14% Alheit Vineyards, Cartology, Western Cape 2014 95 £26.46-£31 AC Gallie, Handford, Harvey Nichols, Lay & Wheeler, Love Wine, Red Squirrel, St Andrews Wine Co, Swig,…

AFTER JOHN F Kennedy was elected as US president in 1960, he declared that he wanted his brother, Robert F Kennedy, to be the attorney general. JFK’s aides worried about the PR connotations. How would it look? It will look as if we chose the best man for the job, replied the president – right is right. Halfway through a dinner there in April, it was clear that Le Gavroche led the field for the 2015 Restaurant of the Year. After a midsummer lunch, with a winemaker who said Michel Roux Jr ‘really honours wine’, it was still in the lead, with nothing but daylight ahead. In early autumn, after another splendid meal with another delighted winemaker, the finish line was clearly in sight. Then we were overtaken by events:…

• Acker Merrall, New York, 19 November: one double magnum of Lafleur 1985 sold for $3,705 (high estimate: $3,200); 12 bottles of Pétrus 1982 sold for $49,400 (high e: $60,000); eight bottles of Penfolds’ Grange 2008 sold for $7,410 (high e: $6,000); three magnums of Salon, Le Mesnil 1996 sold for $4,693 (high e: $4,000); six bottles of Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanée 2005 sold for $22,230 (high e: $24,000); three magnums of Bruno Giacosa, Falletto di Serralunga Riserva, Barolo 1989 sold for $8,645 (high e: $8,000); three bottles of Chave’s Cuvée Cathelin, Ermitage 1990 sold for $16,055 (high e: $12,000). • Christie’s, Hong Kong, 27 November: six bottles of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC), Romanée-Conti 1996 sold for HK$551,250 (high e: HK$550,000); 12 bottles of Domaine Leroy’s Richebourg/Romanée-St-Vivant 1999 sold…

THERE WAS A story doing the rounds last year about a celebrated British rock star who was served an Italian sparkling wine at a reception in Rome. He liked it so much that he asked to meet the producer, who by chance was present, and to whom he reportedly said ‘Hey man [or words to that effect], this is amazing. It’s the greatest Prosecco I’ve ever tasted!’ He was in fact drinking a 10-year old metodo classico riserva. I cannot vouch for the veracity of the anecdote, but even if it is not true, it could be. Outside Italy, Prosecco monopolises horizons to such an extent that it has become synonymous for anything Italian with bubbles. This is a shame because, without wanting to detract from the pleasure you get…

Castello di Verduno, Riserva, Monvigliero 2008 94 £45.46-£46.26 Justerini & Brooks, Lay & Wheeler Dried cherry, date and cedar aromas with subtle wood notes, very good acidity, excellent balance and structure and light herbal notes on the finish. Graceful, lovely wine with fine tannins; notable expression of the classic 2008 vintage. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 14.5% Vietti, Ravera 2010 94 N/A UK www.vietti.com The most refined and feminine Barolo in Vietti’s range, with subtle notes of red cherry and eucalyptus, excellent concentration and very good acidity – signs of the great 2010 vintage. Drink 2016-2030 Alc 14.5% Ceretto, Prapò 2010 93 £58-£69.95 Harrods, Millésima, Top Selection Red cherry and tar notes, this is youthful, with slightly bitter tannins and impressive persistence. Subtle minerality with excellent structure, this is a powerful wine…

SOAVE. I WASN’T expecting surprises. That the vineyards, wineries and winemakers around the town of Soave can make excellent wines – not just simple, easy-drinking cheap ones – that wasn’t news to me. But within minutes of arriving in Soave, I begin to feel the shockwaves that pleasantly surprise me throughout my trip. ‘They’ve only just started harvesting? White grapes are still hanging in the vineyards while most red grapes are now tucked up in tank!’ ‘Look at the drama of the soil colours! They are basalt BLACK and limestone WHITE and iron RED!’ ‘Look at how steep these vineyards are!’ ‘This wine is HOW old??’ ‘They’re STILL using the pergola training system,’ and lastly, perhaps least surprisingly, ‘It costs how little?’ Recent history Price was one of the factors…

EMILIA ROMAGNA IS, without doubt, one of the most important regions in Italy for its outstanding heritage of both food and wine. Halfway between between Parma and Bologna sits Modena, the heart of the wine region where the Lambrusco tradition is deeply rooted. Lambrusco has a long history, stretching back to the Etruscans several millennia ago. The wines grew in popularity, becoming extremely successful in the 1970s, when they were exported in vast quantities all over the globe. This success became a curse as well as a blessing with volumes ratcheted up at the expense of individuality. However, the interest did allow new techniques to be developed, along with a better understanding of the vines and terroir. Lambrusco vines grow on the flat land in pianura padana, the fertile Po…

Villa di Corlo, Rosanto Spumante, Lambrusco Grasparossa 2014 92 N/A UK www.villadicorlo.com Champagne in disguise! Feminine, pale pink colour. Very perfumed and aromatic on the nose. A delicate and well balanced palate showing rose petals and soft juicy cherries. Drink 2016 Alc 11.5% Corte Manzini, Bollicine Rosé, Lambrusco Grasparossa NV 90 N/A UK www.cortemanzini.it Blackberries and violets on the nose with blueberry undertones. Creamy texture and yeasty on the palate, this exhibits an elegant, ripe cherry finish Drink 2016 Alc 11% Fattoria Moretto, Rosé, Lambrusco Grasparossa NV 90 £17.25 The Italian Wine Women Delicate and aromatic red flower notes with plum undertones. Quite intense on the palate with a well-balanced freshness, bright acidity and a youthful, fruity finish. Drink 2016 Alc 11.5% Cavicchioli, Vigna del Cristo, Lambrusco di Sorbara 2014…

Whatever else is going on in Chianti Classico, the new vintage remains news and, next to the sub-zone, will be the determining factor in the style of the Chianti Classico you pick from the shelf. This has always been so, but with the dramatic climate swings of recent years, the vintage has acquired even greater significance. 2015 Producers are upbeat about the quality of the 2015s. Italy sweltered through one of the hottest Julys on record, but in central Tuscany there was also well distributed rainfall through the rest of the growing season, and cooler temperatures in the run-up to the harvest slowed ripening and helped to preserve acidity. The wines should be deeply coloured and full-bodied, similar in some ways to the very powerful 2006 wines. 2014 The year…

2015 Potentially top quality. The vines produced a moderate crop, yield-wise – a hangover from cloudy weather the previous spring – but ripe, well defined fruit. Spring was a balanced mix of heat and rain. August was usefully dry. Weather at harvest was cool and luminous but again dry, thanks to the northern tramontana wind. Wines have potentially bright, lush fruit flavours and deliciously crunchy tannins. Drink 2018-2030 2014 Tough year. Too much rain (1,300mm compared to the usual 800mm) and not enough sun meant lots of work pulling leaves off so the grapes got at least some direct sunlight. Bright fruit, simple tannins but not for the long haul. Drink 2016-2020 2013 Similar to 2014, but better as the soils – parched from 2012 – could soak up sometimes…

Drinking windows for these vintages will largely depend on the style of vinification. Most vintages will age effortlessly for a decade or more, but may go on far longer. 2014 A damp summer, but a fine autumn. Merlot struggled, but Sagrantino could be good. 2013 Wet, early summer with mildew. A small crop and Sagrantino is unlikely to excel. 2012 Very hot summer, but Sagrantino resisted the water stress and quality should be very good. 2011 Wet July but very hot summer with some drought conditions. Rounded wines of high quality. 2010 Very hot summer but with regular rainfall so no stress. Cooler and later than 2011. Very good quality. 2009 Some rain in early summer, then very hot, giving full ripeness in a slightly lighter style than usual. 2008…