Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2023 i Decanter

The time traveller’s wine We have an absolutely splendid feature about wine travel on the front of this issue. If you’ve ever wondered which destinations our readers were most excited by, you’re in luck – we’ve sifted out the 50 best-read pieces, boiled each down to a mouthwatering précis and presented them to you. If you manage to tick off all 50, do let us know, if only so we can all experience enormous pangs of jealousy. Of course, you may only be venturing as far as your local patch of countryside or beach, in which case we have the perfect picnic guide (and of course the perfect pick of picnic-accompanying wines). But there’s a third kind of travel, other than global and local – time travel. In this issue…

Built into the hillside terraces of Castelo de Paiva, Octant Douro is conveniently located between the city of Porto and the vertiginous slopes of the upper Douro, making it a perfect base for exploring this Port-producing region. Luxurious rooms and suites offer stunning river views, many with a private terrace or balcony, including a private pool suite. Regular wine tastings highlight local producers, while regional dishes from the lower Douro inspire the menu at elegant Raiva restaurant – a perfect spot to watch the sunset as you dine. Relax with an indulgent massage treatment in the spa, take a private boat trip on the Douro or enjoy a Portonic on the peaceful terrace… However you spend your time here, you won’t fail to fall in love with this unique Portuguese…

Big Yellow Self Storage has opened a new flagship store in King’s Cross, north London, offering 400 individual climate-controlled wine cellars, as well as a tasting room. The individually alarmed cellars are suitable for collectors, restaurateurs, wine distributors or event organisers looking to store their collection. Climate control ensures that wines are stored in optimal conditions at 12°-13°C, with humidity of 55%-65%. Cellar sizes start from a 12-case space and go up to 100 square feet [9.3m2 ] with enough room for 500 cases. Further south, the Fulham store also offers wine storage. Prices currently start from £7.80 per week (including VAT) for a 12-case cellar at Kings Cross and from £9.90 per week for a 15-case cellar at Fulham. Customers will also be able to hire an on-site tasting…

1 Bollinger, La Grande Année Brut 2014 96 £125-£160 Widely available Fermented in small oak barrels, predominantly bought second-hand from Burgundy, in which the wine ages for up to six months. A delicious conundrum in 2014, managing to be both deeply resonant and surprisingly subtle. Beneath fragrant blackberry and baked plum fruit sits the richness of chestnut honey, rye bread and cocoa. There’s zesty brightness and cooked orchard fruit, perfectly composed, shaped with precision and energy. Six and a half years on lees. One of the top 2014s. Drink 2023-2040 Alcohol 12.5% 2 Krug, Grande Cuvée 170ème Edition Brut 96 £215-£265 Widely available Fermented in small barrels averaging 20 years of age and moved into stainless steel after three months. This edition is really waking up now, jumping with lime…

Malvazija Istarska Istria is dominated by Malvazija Istarska (officially Malvasia Istriana, though the local spelling highlights its Croatian identity and likely Istrian origin). Many take the name ‘Malvasia’, but genetics show this one is not closely related to any others nor, as has often been claimed, to any Greek varieties. The first mention of the Malvazija name in the Adriatic has a documented history back to 1385, when a physician named Bartolo requested a permit to buy 5.5 litres of Malvasia wine. Today it is Croatia’s second-most planted grape (after Graševina), at 1,555ha, and all but 6ha grow in Istria. There’s a strong argument that Malvazija Istarska should be considered a great grape variety – capable of producing high-quality, ageworthy wines and able to reflect terroir. It was treated as…

Think of Croatia, and you might conjure up images of a coastal nation with deep blue seas, grilled seafood and uncountable paradise islands. But attractive though this Mediterranean idyll sounds, it’s not the whole picture. More than half of the country’s landmass heads inland across the top of neighbouring Bosnia-Herzegovina before it eventually meets western Serbia. This is especially relevant for wine, as about 60% of Croatia’s production comes from the two overarching inland regions: The Uplands and Slavonia. This contrasts with the country’s tourism, which favours the two coastal regions, northerly Istria and Kvarner, and Dalmatia in the south. Croatian Uplands With vineyards scattered around the capital Zagreb, the Uplands is Croatia’s greenest and coolest wine-growing region. Reflecting a strong influence from the old Austro-Hungarian empire, international white varieties…

The range of sophisticated alcohol-free and low-alcohol drinks has never been greater. Here are five suggestions for summer sipping. 1 Agua de Madre Lemon & Ginger Kefir Water £10/75cl Abel & Cole, aguademadre.co.uk, Marvin’s Den, Melted Inside, Todelli If you want something citrussy and invigorating but without caffeine, sugar or alcohol, this is a good bet. The flavours of lemon and ginger are subtle and because it’s water-based it’s naturally light, with just a hint of funky kefir tang. Could work as a Mojito (or white wine) alternative, and since it’s probiotic it’s good for your gut, too – just don’t drink too much of it! Alcohol 0.5% 2 Gunner Saint £1.95/33cl can originalgunner.com, The Alcohol Free Drinks Co, Wise Bartender The Gunners cocktail (rather like the G&T) was invented…

Ask Decanter Each month our experts answer your burning wine questions. Email your queries to editor@decanter.com CAN UNOAKED REDS AGE? Are all unoaked reds essentially for drinking in their youth, or are there any that have the potential to age? Alex Millar, by email Justin Knock MW, director of wine at OenoGroup and DWWA joint Regional Chair for Australia, replies: There is no doubt that some red grape varieties have an affinity for maturation in oak. We think of small oak casks in particular, barriques (225L/228L) or hogsheads (300L), and high-quality wines made from varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon (Bordeaux, Napa, Margaret River), Pinot Noir (Burgundy, Sonoma, New Zealand), Shiraz (Australia, South Africa), Malbec (Mendoza) and Tempranillo (Rioja, Ribera del Duero). However, there are plenty of exceptions where obvious oak influence…

Chianti Classico producers have received final approval to name certain sub-zones on top-tier Gran Selezione wines, in order to help consumers discover subtle stylistic differences in this famous Tuscan region. An official decree has realised the Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (UGA) plan, creating 11 ‘additional geographic units’ for use on Gran Selezione wines: Castellina, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Gaiole, Greve, Lamole, Montefioralle, Panzano, Radda, San Casciano, San Donato in Poggio, and Vagliagli. ‘This is an historic achievement,’ said Chianti Classico consorzio president Giovanni Manetti. Decanter Italy expert Michaela Morris said: ‘As Chianti Classico’s UGAs are fairly large and varied, wines are not necessarily uniform within each delimited area. Nevertheless, there are certain touchstones. As such, the sub-division does offer a starting point to understanding Chianti Classico’s diverse expressions and the opportunity to associate…

The heat goes on. The world reached 1°C above pre-industrial levels in 2017; by December 2020, it stood at 1.18°C (Copernicus Climate Change Service). La Niña’s extended three-year run of 2020-2022, with its largely beneficial cooling effects for southern hemisphere viticulture, has ended; a warming El Niño phase is back, and the UN predicted in May 2023 that there is a 66% chance we will see 1.5°C of warming for at least one year in the next half-decade. Crossing that threshold (according to the UN’s Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) ‘risks unleashing far more severe climate-change impacts’ than those experienced thus far. The world agreed to try to stay behind this red line at COP21 in Paris in December 2015. We’ve failed. Yes, the taste of wine may be the…

Aligoté gets no respect. While Chardonnay is extolled as giving a wine of elegance, finesse, complexity and length, and has been called the world’s finest white wine grape, Aligoté is often considered inferior: Anthony Hanson MW noted in his influential 1982 work Burgundy (Faber & Faber), ‘...its wine has higher acidity and less length, flavour and roundness than that of the Chardonnay’. Despite its comparative lack of finesse, Aligoté is fun, and today a generation of young winemakers is experimenting with Aligoté, with delicious results. It provides a lively, aromatic wine and is often very reasonably priced, in contrast to the more reserved, almost neutral aromas of Chardonnay and its increasingly hefty price-tag. If there were an Oscar for Best Supporting Grape Variety in Burgundy, it would certainly go to…

No doubt it’s the sun, sea and a romantic rugged coastline that brings some 20 million tourists to Croatia every year, but there is far more to this geographically diverse and endlessly fascinating country. It almost feels like several countries within one – there are four wine regions that each have their own very distinctive wine styles, where geography, climate and culture all play a part. And what better way to explore than with a glass in hand? The Croatian mainland coastline stretches about 1,800km from the north (within sight of the eastern end of the Alps) to the south and the hot rocky shoreline around Dubrovnik. It has about 1,200 islands, too, offering plenty of peaceful spots for visitors (and pirates back in history). But it’s worth heading inland,…

Combining a blissful rugged coast and a lush green interior, the Istrian peninsula offers views of the towering mountains of Slovenia and Italy to the north, and the glistening blue Adriatic to the east and west. This is where Central Europe meets the Mediterranean. The industrial port city of Pula, founded by the Romans, sits on Istria’s southern tip, while the cheerful seaside resorts of Rovinj and Poreč lie on the west coast. Inland you’ll find undulating hills carpeted with vineyards, olive groves and oak forests (concealing pungent truffles), overlooked by medieval-walled hilltowns such as Motovun and Grožnjan in the north. Culturally, the Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines, Venetians and Austro-Hungarians have all left their marks here. Much of Istria came under Venice from the 13th century until the fall of the…

PERKEDEL JAGUNG DAN DABU-DABU Served as a snack or as part of a meal, these sweet and crunchy fritters are irresistible. Best of all, they’re unbelievably simple to make. Traditionally, the fritters are made with fresh sweetcorn on the cob, but you can substitute canned (or frozen) sweetcorn so long as you drain out all the water (this ensures a crunchy fritter). Makrut lime leaves infuse the fritters with a wonderful fragrance. Dabu-dabu is a fresh, versatile chilli-tomato sambal similar to tomato salsa. Traditionally, unripe green tomatoes are used, but regular tomatoes are acceptable. The sambal can be made in advance, but to preserve the tomatoes’ freshness, add the lime juice, salt and oil just before serving. INGREDIENTS Serves 4 FRITTERS 250g sweetcorn 3 makrut lime leaves, centre stem removed…

While the commercial heyday of Beaujolais is long past, critical acclaim for its wines has never been higher, driven by a thirst for wines lighter in body and alcohol, and by a shift in focus which has thrown a spotlight on the 10 crus (Brouilly, Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent, Morgon et al) which sit at the top of the quality pyramid, above Beaujolais Villages and the regional level of Beaujolais/ Beaujolais Nouveau. Energised by a new wave of winemakers keen to highlight the hallmark styles of each cru, this is a region in rude health. Comparably light in hue and possessing the high acidity and scent of strawberries often found in Beaujolais is Freisa, a native of Piedmont, northwest Italy, which winemakers use to make an array of styles from sweet to…

While merchants have reported strong collector interest in some Bordeaux 2022 en primeur wines, high release prices may not help the region’s near-term market momentum. Bordeaux’s 2022 en primeur wines were well received overall, despite some ‘tone deaf’ prices, said UK merchant Goedhuis & Co. Château Cheval Blanc was a success story, said several merchants. Goedhuis said 75% of production was released en primeur, with the remainder set for release in 15 years’ time, ‘undoubtedly at a higher ex-château premium’. Clyde Beffa Jr, co-founder of K&L Wine Merchant in California, highlighted strong sales on wines including Mouton Rothschild and Lafite Rothschild, plus ‘superb value’ on Branaire-Ducru and La Gaffelière. Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Carruades de Lafite and L’Eglise Clinet also offered value, said Liv-ex. However, it described the campaign as ‘another…

Asharp rise in vineyard plantings, new international investment and plans to expand tourism have shown optimism continues to run high in the UK’s blossoming wine industry. Vineyard plantings rose 74% in five years to the end of 2022, to 3,928ha, said trade body WineGB. Its new industry report projected plantings to reach 7,600ha by 2032. ‘Consumers are demanding more locally produced, environmentally friendly products, something that English and Welsh wines are in a unique position to deliver,’ said Ned Awty, WineGB’s interim CEO. Leading US-based producer Jackson Family Wines has announced plans to produce premium still and sparkling UK wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, adding it was buying land to plant vines in Crouch Valley, Essex. ‘I’ve been impressed with the quality of sparkling wines from the UK for…

‘Taking over as cellar master is a complex and introspective journey. You must find the balance between respecting the heritage and bringing your own touch. In order to push the boundaries, to help the brand expand and develop, you must first have a deep understanding of Dom Pérignon and how far it has come. ‘I entered into this universe through agronomy. For me, having contact and interaction with nature is important. We are turning a page in Champagne towards new viticulture, and I’m very at ease with that. I spend as much time as I can in the vineyards. ‘As we face bigger challenges through climate change, we are in a state of transition, and I try to develop what we are doing in the vineyard to accelerate that transition.…

It’s quite an admission to make, and the blushes rise to my cheeks as I make it, that when I wrote my first books on wine (up to and including my The World Atlas of Wine, first edition 1971) I was convinced, and told my readers, that the clear and constant differences between the communes of Bordeaux, and their châteaux, were first and foremost the consequences of their different soils, ranging from the light, fast-draining openness of gravel in Graves to a heavier mix with clay in St-Estèphe. Pomerol was clay (with gravel); St-Emilion limestone (with clay). Hence the need for an atlas to plot the vineyards and show the exact locations of their châteaux. In an indirect way it’s true. I argued that the depth and drainage of the…

B ollinger’s archives contain an unusual letter, penned by Madame Lily Bollinger herself in 1963 and addressed, surprisingly, to the house of Krug. Having lost her husband Jacques, head of the house, in 1941, ‘Madame Jacques’ was entrusted with maintaining Bollinger’s prestige at a time when Champagne’s cellars were modernising. ‘At the beginning, she didn’t know the daily work of the house,’ explains Bollinger’s current chef de cave Denis Bunner. ‘But she put her trust in André Bergeot, the cellar master at the time. She was loyal to oak, and she wanted to start an association to help keep the tradition.’ Krug, then, was first on the invitation list. But why the desire to establish such an association in the first place? There aren’t many places where the use of…

Surrounded by sea on three sides, with the Julian Alps to the north, Istria is the largest peninsula in the Adriatic. Today 90% of the zone falls in Croatia, with a small part in Slovenia and an even tinier area in Italy close to Trieste. The landscape is dramatic, with its hilltop medieval villages, olive groves producing award-winning olive oil, woods full of wildlife (and truffles – one of the largest ever white truffles was found here; it even has its own statue) and, of course, vineyards everywhere. Facts & figures The neighbouring regions of Istria and Kvarner are one wine region – Istria is the peninsula while Kvarner covers the islands and coastline of the bay to the east. Croatia today has 17,700ha of vineyards. Istria and Kvarner is…

My favourite base in Istria, Rovinj offers a choice of classy waterside hotels. Of these, I’d suggest the newest, the Grand Hotel Park (maistra.com), enjoying magnificent views of the old town across the bay, plus contemporary design, gourmet dining and a rooftop spa. FRIDAY Arriving in the afternoon, book in and take a stroll along the seafront to Rovinj’s lovely old town. Walk around the fishing harbour, rimmed by pastel-coloured houses hosting seafood restaurants and ice cream parlours, then around the peninsula. Originally a tiny island, Rovinj was connected to the mainland coast in 1763, when the sea channel was filled in. EVENING From the harbour, take an early-evening ride in a traditional flat-bottomed batana rowing boat, lit by a fishing lantern. Then return to the hotel for a spectacular…

Most of us would, I think, agree that you don’t have to give the same thought to wine pairing when out on a picnic as you would for a formal dinner party. But that’s not to say you shouldn’t choose a wine that’s broadly suitable for the style of the dishes involved, especially if they have a distinct personality, such as those of Indonesian food. It’s also true that most picnics include more than one dish and take place outside, and this puts a premium on wines with bigger flavours than you might consider for an indoor occasion. The other issue, assuming the summer weather gods are smiling, is keeping your wines cool: one good reason wine in cans is becoming such a popular and practical option now. Choice is…

Cake donuts are made of cake batter and yeast, or ‘raised’ donuts are made of enriched bread dough – both are fried, unless ‘baked’ is specified in the title. Whatever your preference, I urge you to try these. They’re crisp and juicy outside and soft and fluffy inside. They’re perfect. INGREDIENTS Makes about 8 donuts Author note I’m sorry, you need quite a few non-negotiable things: round cutters (or donut cutters), spider strainer, thermometer, kitchen paper, a wire rack. 175g plain flour 1¼ tsp baking powder ¼ tsp salt 75g golden caster sugar 120g sour cream 1 egg 1 tsp vanilla extract 15g unsalted butter, melted and cooled 65g raspberries rapeseed oil, for frying (about 1.5 litres) FOR THE GLAZE 2 large passion fruits (or 3-4 small ones) 200g icing…

T he wines of Valpolicella have never been better. As more consistently warm summers in the north of Italy increase the likelihood of a fully ripe crop at harvest time in the Veneto region, so reliance on the appassimento process [the partial dehydration of grapes to produce wines of greater concentration and depth of flavour] begins to come into question. Simultaneously, a market more receptive to distinctive wine styles based on local varieties, coupled with a growing confidence in their ability to express the unique character of their terroir, has enabled Veneto winemakers to scale new heights across the five denominations made in the demarcated area of Valpolicella (to follow, in bold). The hillside vineyards north of Verona are beginning to show the true potential of the Corvina grape which,…