Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2022 i Decanter

Stay up to date with the latest wine news on decanter.com, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter @Decanter ■ Oregon wine lovers have a new ‘appellation’ to explore after US government officials approved the state’s 23rd AVA (American Viticultural Area). ‘Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon’ AVA was created on 5 July and sits within the Willamette Valley AVA. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Tempranillo are the main grape varieties in the new AVA, home to three wineries and 10 vineyards, said the Oregon Wine Board and Willamette Valley Wineries Association. ■ An alleged wine and whisky investment fraud scheme has purportedly duped more than 150 people in the US out of about $13m. One person connected to the alleged scheme, and from the UK, was arrested…

LETTER OF THE MONTH My local health food shop prides itself in selling locally grown and produced food and trumpets the need for us all to reduce food miles to save the planet. Surprisingly, perhaps, it is happy to sell wine from the other side of the world transported in heavy glass bottles. So why is no one talking about ‘wine miles’? Transporting wine from the vineyard to the consumer makes a significant contribution to the carbon footprint of the wine we drink. We can reduce bottle weights, experiment with alternative packaging and insist on ship-based transportation, but none of it avoids the truth that the liquid itself is heavy. Maybe it is time for the wine industry and consumers to face head-on how far we choose to transport wine.…

W hen it comes to wine, we’re often in search of good value – whether that’s overdelivering on a £5 bottle or£50 – and the Decanter World Wine Awards judging process takes that factor into consideration. Alongside typicity, balance, finesse and drinkability, among other things, the DWWA judges are looking for wines that are of exceptional quality within their price band, with wines below the £15* mark categorised as ‘Value’ wines. ‘Price is very critical to everybody’s buying decisions,’ notes DWWA Co-Chair Andrew Jefford. ‘I’m always buying the best wine I can get for the price. So having that price band enables consumers to calibrate what they can actually get hold of, with respect to their own budget – Ithink that’s what people are really looking for.’ When categorised as…

Dreamof Tuscany, Andalucia or Alentejo and you will likely see rolling hills dotted by sculptural olive trees, interspersed with vineyards of gnarly old vines. Olive groves and vines have defined the culture and landscapes of the Mediterranean basin for centuries, inseparable companions across southern Europe and the Middle East. Geopolitics, trade and nature have all played a part in the relationship. Vines and olive trees thrive in some of the most challenging areas within the 30° and 45° parallels, having adapted to drought and mineral-poor soils where other crops perish. ‘Other trees struggle on the rocky soils in which vines perform best,’ says Adrian Bridge, CEO of The Fladgate Partnership, owner of Quinta de Vargellas, an iconic Douro estate where olive oil is still produced. ‘But olive trees have shallow…

PRISONER-MADE ISLAND WINE MARKS 10TH ANNIVERSARY JAMES BUTTON A sunny June morning was perfect for a private boat trip with some 50 other journalists and friends of the Frescobaldi family (frescobaldi.com) to the island of Gorgona, 30km off the Tuscan coast from the cruise ship-lined harbour of Livorno. After an hour cutting through the sparkling blue of the Tyrrhenian sea, we arrived at the unique open prison that is Gorgona. Transfer requests from other prisons are apparently high, and you can see why. Some prisoners were repainting a retaining wall in a striking baby blue atop the steep cliffs, as the waves lapped at a tiny stretch of stony beach where an elderly lady (the last non-inmate resident left on the island) rested under a striped parasol. After a tour…

Thisyear has seen rising activity in the field of blockchain technology and ‘non-fungible tokens’ (NFTs) linked to fine wine, but there is debate about what this means for the future of collecting and trading. Wokenwine, a new online marketplace dedicated to fine wine NFTs, announced recently that Burgundy’s Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair would sell its 2020-vintage production via the platform (wokenwine.com). It also announced partnerships with several other wineries. It’s one example of a growing number of wine world initiatives linked to NFTs and blockchain technology, which are separate but related concepts. These are very early days, however. An NFT is essentially a unique digital token. It can denote ownership of virtual or physical assets, like wine, or access to an experience, say. It may also be traded, often via…

Severaltop wines rose strongly in price in the first six months of 2022, according to trading data from Bordeaux Index’s LiveTrade platform (chart, right). The merchant said that LiveTrade’s 10 most actively traded wines in first half 2022 were: Cristal 2014, Cristal 2008, Dom Pérignon 2008, Dom Pérignon 2012, Haut-Brion 2016, Sassicaia 2016, Cristal 2013, Lafite Rothschild 2009, Lafite 2000 and Sassicaia 2019. This shows high buyer demand for top brands, said Matthew O’Connell, LiveTrade’s CEO, adding that blue-chip Burgundy also performed strongly. At auction, a Beaune-based Sotheby’s sale offered Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) wines from a private collection, which had been ‘purchased on release, directly at the domaine’. A six-litre methuselah of DRC, Echézeaux 1999 fetched €75,000 (£63,700, pre-sale high estimate: €40,000). A three-litre jeroboam of DRC, Romanée-St-Vivant…

Alsace GOLD Sparkling white 96 Cleebourg, Auxerrois Brut, Crémant d’Alsace NV (12.5%) Magnificent floral, yeasty and yellow apple aromatics, fresh and juicy with a fine mousse, long and concentrated, energetic and lingering. The words ‘delectable’ and ‘riveting’ come to mind. GOLD White 95 Cave de Beblenheim, Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 2020 (13.2%) A remarkable wine with an intense nose of pink grapefruit, white peach and apricot. Deep, intense and full-bodied with a salty edge and a long, off-dry finish. One for the cellar, a class act all round. ALSACE WON 0 Best in show (see p31) 2 Platinum (see p61) For Silver-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/bronze 95 Cave de Ribeauvillé, Riesling Grand Cru Osterberg 2019 (13.5%) £30.25 Friarwood Fine Wines A petrol-…

GOLD White 95 Château d’Arche, A, Bordeaux Blanc 2020 (13%) £13.95 The Wine Society Aromatic nose with exotic and candied white fruit, yellow kiwi, yellow apple and pineapple. The palate is rich and dense. Impressive and skilfully drawn. GOLD Rosé 95 BDX Revolution, Cabernet Franc Rosé, Bordeaux 2021 (12%) Pale salmon colour. Delicate scents, almond and blossom with crushed berry aromas. Mellow acidity and creamy texture, soft style. Vinous finish. GOLD Red 96 Château Greysac, Médoc Cru Bourgeois Supérieur 2019 (14.5%) £24.99 Justerini & Brooks Seamless nose, plush black fruits and a hint of spice. Enticing. Fabulous fruit on palate with great balancing acidity and fine-grained tannins. Persistent finish. 95 Château Barreyres, La Griffe de Barreyres, Haut-Médoc 2020 (14%) Quite gentle oaky, smoky nose opening up with some floral quality…

Armenia GOLD Red 96 Noa, Noah of Areni, Vayots Dzor 2019 (14%) Gorgeous, perfumed; wild cherry, raspberry, black tea. Silky textured palate, savoury, tart fruit and elegant tannins. Georgia GOLD Orange 95 Gvaramadze Winery, Rkatsiteli, Tsarapi, Kakheti 2020 (12.3%) CAUCASUS & EURASIA WON 0 Best in show (see p31) 0 Platinum (see p61) For Silver-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/bronze Generous and aromatic, with notes of mango, peach, barley sugar and mock orange on the nose, and a textural palate of dried stone fruit, apricot and silky smooth tannins. 95 Tbilvino, Qvevris Kisi, Kakheti 2020 (12.3%) Very delicate and elegant, with pretty aromas of lifted orange peel, then a palate textured with lemon pith, savoury tea and a lovely floral note. 95 Teliani…

GOLD White 96 Casa Silva, Cool Coast Sauvignon Blanc, Paredones, Colchagua 2021 (13.8%) £17.49 Laithwaites A stunning wine with really elegant aromas of roasted pepper, fennel, grapefruit, whitecurrant and gooseberry. The palate is dense, layered, structured and replete, with intriguing blackberry bush complexity and poise. 95 Casa Marin, Cipreses Sauvignon Blanc, Lo Abarca, San Antonio 2021 (13.5%) £19.50 The Fine Wine Co A serious expression of Sauvignon Blanc. Sweaty blackberry bush with curry leaf accents. Tangy, taut, a mineral undertow, and savoury-saline tang on the resonant finish. 95 Longaví, Cementerio, Maule 2020 (13.5%) A classic Chenin with peaches, apricots, woolly notes, bruised apples and honeyed hints. Rounded and succulent but dry, with a nice fluid texture and some expensive-tasting oak. 95 Morandé, Black Series Chardonnay, Traiguén, Malleco Valley 2020 (13%)…

GOLD White 95 Chateau Estanilles, Sous les Rocs, Faugères 2021 (13.5%) Open, attractive; jasmine flower, honeysuckle, confit lemon, white peach. Apricots, sweet pastry, almond, wellmanaged oak, a beautifully balancing grippy-sour note. GOLD Red 96 Château d’Agel, In Extremis, Minervois 2020 (14.5%) POA £ London City Bond Rich nose of classy vanilla oak, ripe smoky fruit, touch of cloves behind. Impressively complex palate, delicious ripe fruit and fine tannins. 96 Château de l’Ou, Compartir, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2019 (16%) LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON WON 0 Best in Show (see p31) 5 Platinum (see p61) For Silver-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/bronze A nose of lovely elegance and depth, blackberries and oak followed by a complex tannic palate, juicy red and black fruits and a long finish.…

Port GOLD Fortified 96 Bulas Cruz, 30 Year Old White Port (20%) Debonair dusty, woody and cask-derived aromas. Bold, confident, rich, intense and complex, lovely texture, multiple layers of chocolate, coffee, honey and orange. Big orange marmalade finish. 96 MM Heritage Family, Quinta da Sabordela, Single Quinta Vintage 2019 (19.5%) Sweetly perfumed, ripe and jammy, bitter chocolate and Black Forest gateau. High tannins, searing acidity provide structure and potential for evolution. Complex, combining power with elegance. 96 Quinta do Cume, Vintage 2019 (19.5%) POA $ Columbus Wine and Spirits Youthful baked plum, coffee bean and spice. Nice structure, fruit showing well alongside exuberant acidity and tannins. Big, ripe, opulent, pretty, plummy fruit, explosive finish. Its future is gold-plated. 95 Kopke, 20 Year Old White Port (20%) £39.95/37.5cl Vintage Wine &…

GOLD White 96 Domaine des Anges, Archange, Ventoux 2020 (13.5%) POA £ Direct Wine Shipments, Imperial Wine Co POA $ DHI Selections Exquisitely vivid floral, lemon peel, honey, tangy lime fruit and herbal bouquet. Gently toasty/saline palate, powerful and immaculately balanced. A compelling wine with a long, fresh, mineral finish. 96 Domaine du Chêne, Condrieu 2020 (14%) Ripe, pure, tangy, expressive and deeply fruited. Great depth, white peach and citrus. Intense, creamy, spiced; well-integrated oak and alcohol. Neat and very true, familiar varietal features all through. Impeccable. 95 Cave de Tain, Nobles Rives Blanc, Hermitage 2020 (14.5%) £60 Boutinot Refined, fresh and intense; debonair floral, citrus, white peach aromatics. Classic weight and breadth of a high-quality Hermitage. Intense, complex and saline, nuanced use of oak. 95 Roland Grangier, Les Terrasses…

Israel GOLD Red 96 Jezreel Valley Winery, Argaman, Shomron 2017 (13.9%) £39.99 Grapevine, Hedonism, Rise & Vine, Kosher Wine UK, Kosher Savers, Kosher Kingdom $55-$60 Gramercy Wine, K&D, Kosher Wine, Total Wine & More Deeply coloured, near-black; an inky wine full of sweet, ripe black fruits, red fruits and cassis. Silky texture, ripe, fine-grained tannins; confident and capable use of sweet oak. A long finish giving time to reflect on this little-known Israeli grape. SOUTHERN & EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN WON 0 Best in show (see p31) 0 Platinum (see p61) For Silver-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/bronze 95 Barkan, Beta Argaman, Judean Hills 2019 (13.6%) Seductive, beautiful velvet texture, ripe black fruit and floral aromas. Black fruits have a lactic, yoghurty nature, with a…

GOLD White 96 Philippe & Sylvain Ravier, La Peyse, Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron 2017 (14%) £28.95 Jeroboams Lifted, exotic nose, showing aromas of honey, vanilla, white pepper, gunflint and stone fruit. Somewhat oily on the palate, toasty with a spicy finish. 95 Domaine Laougué, 19.91, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh 2021 (13%) Rich golden appearance, with aromas of honey, struck match, peach, lanolin and cream. Intense and full-bodied, this is concentrated and delicious, with depth of flavour. SOUTH WEST & REST OF FRANCE WON 1 Best in show (see p31) 1 Platinum (see 61) For Silver-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/bronze GOLD Orange 95 Jeff Carrel, ChatGris NV (14.9%) £20 The Real Wine Co Bright and glimmering orange colour. Exotic and inviting nose of orange peel,…

There is a real sense of vibrancy around Bordeaux’s Right Bank to excite collectors at all levels, propelled by vineyard investment, a run of good vintages and demand for some top-tier labels on the market. This report focuses on St-Emilion and Pomerol reds, drawing on previous exclusive reporting for Decanter Premium subscribers to highlight recent developments and offer an introductory guide to the region’s position on the fine wine market. Market Fundamentals POMEROL AND ST-EMILION NAMES TO KNOW AND WATCH Pomerol’s lack of formal classification system and relatively small size hasn’t exactly held it back. Petrus and Le Pin make world-beating 100% Merlot wines from vineyards of 11.5 hectares (ha) and 2.7ha respectively. It’s no surprise the releases tend to be allocation-only. Le Pin produces around 300 to 500 cases…

CHARLES CURTIS MW is a widely published journalist, author and fine wine advisor based in New York. Formerly head of wine at Christie’s in the US and Asia, he started out as a chef and travelled to Paris to train at Le Cordon Bleu LAURA FOSTER is a widely published freelance journalist and writer with a particular focus on spirits and cocktails. She was formerly deputy editor of UK on-trade drinks title Imbibe and bar & drinks editor for Square Meal NANCY GILCHRIST MW is a wine educator, speaker and consultant, currently working with the Wine Scholar Guild to create new online educational resources and as UK ambassador for the Consorzio Vini Alto Adige in NE Italy BROOKE HERRON is a US West Coast-based travel, food and drink writer. Also…

Totally tropical rums from Takamaka If you’d like to add a touch of the tropics to your drinks cabinet this summer, try the new St André Series rums from Takamaka. Based in the Seychelles, Takamaka is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year with four new releases: Extra Noir, Zepis Kreol, Pti Lakaz and Grankaz. Produced at the Trois Freres distillery on the island of Mahé, these rums showcase different production techniques, making use of both molasses and cane sugar rums, and pot- and column-distillation, with ageing in a variety of casks. Three of the four include rum from the Foursquare Distillery in Barbados in the blend. Pick of the bunch is Pti Lakaz (Alc 45.1%), two Seychelles rums – apot-distilled cane rum matured in three types of oak and a…

We wrote this book to celebrate sea salt as an often misunderstood ingredient. People often fear it in any quantity, but few ingredients change dishes in the way that salt does. Hence we [the Lea-Wilson family, owners of Halen Môn sea salt] have collated some of our favourite recipes – to show how seasoning can elevate everyday classics, and be added to some more unexpected dishes. We believe that learning to season properly is what separates a good cook from a great one. It isn’t simply a case of how much is added, but also when it is added: at the beginning of meal prep to help sun-ripened tomatoes sing; coating your meat just before cooking to help the salty char form and the meat stay juicy; or right at…

N ewZealand wines – particularly Sauvignon Blanc – suffered severe shortages in the 2021 vintage, so it was gratifying to see such a large number entered for this two-day tasting. In our discussions during and following it, we three judges considered regional and vintage differences as well as the range of Sauvignon Blanc styles, notably considering whether there is a lighter, more focused style emerging. Highlights came from Wairarapa on North Island, which showed real quality and refinement, thanks in part to the free-draining alluvial gravels and clay silts of the terraces which produce small, concentrated berries. On South Island, wines from Waipara showcased a fresh, clean style that impressed. Likewise, it was pleasing to see what Central Otago (especially the Bannockburn sub-region) can produce – it is certainly a…

RECOMMENDED BY JAMES BUTTON, NATALIE EARL, TINA GELLIE, INES SALPICO, JULIE SHEPPARD, AMY WISLOCKI & SYLVIA WU Louis Vertay, Brut, Champagne, France NV 90 92 £18 Marks & Spencer, Ocado The tricky 2017 vintage forms the base in this crisp red apple-driven blend (with 50% Pinot Meunier), but the 35% of reserve wine used, as well as richness from full malolactic fermentation, and nougat-like lees notes, ensures this popular Champagne is as reliable as ever. TG Alcohol 12.5% Château de Minière, Bulles de Minière Rouge Brut, Loire, France NV O £17.50 Wanderlust Wine It’s always a slight surprise to see sparkling red wine, but this, a 100% Cabernet Franc from Bourgueil, is a welcome one. Enticing flavours spanning blueberry, blackberry, raspberry and blackcurrant. Fresh and fruit-forward, with a herbal tone…

OPUS ONE 2019 From a highly regarded Napa Valley vintage, Opus One 2019 has been scheduled for international release via the Place de Bordeaux on the first Monday in September 2022, a winery spokesperson said. In the US, distribution for the wine is handled separately and the 2019 vintage release is expected from 1 October. LATOUR 2010 & PALMER 2012 Château Latour plans to release fresh stocks of its vaunted 2010 vintage this September, the Pauillac first growth said. In Margaux, meanwhile, Château Palmer has said it intends to re-release its 2012 vintage from 22 September. Palmer’s N-10 policy sees it release, each year, a portion of its grand vin 10 years after harvest. MASSETO 2019 Sometimes dubbed ‘Italy’s Petrus’, Masseto is among a group of top-tier SuperTuscans on the…

Fine wine & spirits specialist Bordeaux Index kindly sponsors this section of Decanter, and provides its view on the market here every issue. It can be found at bordeauxindex.com Technology is as important in wine as in any sector and indeed at Bordeaux Index we are particularly aware of this, having created LiveTrade, the most active online trading platform in the space. Blockchain and NFTs have three key potential roles to play in the space: proving provenance; driving potential for more sophisticated storage and less need to move cases between warehouses; and distribution to a wider range of collectors and investors via NFTs. For the most part, we believe that the solutions we have so far seen promoted in the space tend to solve only part of the related ‘problem’…

Inside a professional’s everyday life How did you get here? I love connecting authors and audiences, particularly on non-fiction topics. I’ve been in sales and marketing in publishing all my life and have always loved books. When chairman and publisher Simon McMurtrie got in touch about the Académie in 2018, I felt I was looking at my dream job description. What’s the best thing about your job? The authors. I feel so privileged to work with so many great wine people, particularly Hugh Johnson, as well as Oz Clarke, Andrew Jefford and many others. I was lucky to work with Steven Spurrier before he passed away [March 2021], though I joined too late to meet Michael Broadbent. I’m working to collect as many of the greats and as much new…

T heDecanter World Wine Awards are rooted in regionality. Wines are judged first and foremost within their region, by a panel of experts in that region. The judges look for typicity above all, rewarding wines that are true to their terroir. Turn to ‘Meet the experts’ from p12 to find out more about the credentials of our four DWWA Co-Chairs and Regional Chairs, as well as a list of the judges for each region. There are three judges on each panel to ensure consistency of results – panels mostly comprise one Regional Chair and two panel judges. The Regional Chair sits on one panel per day, and tastes and scores each wine along with the other two judges. Some Regional Chairs oversee two panels: each of these panels is led…

ARGENTINA Bodegas Bianchi, IV Generación Gran Corte, Los Chacayes, Tunuyán, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2019 (14.5%) bodegasbianchi.com.ar The anatomisation of Uco is one of the wine world’s great adventures at present: it’s been obvious for some years that the resource is a splendid one. If you harbour any doubts, try to get hold of a bottle of this midnight-black blend of Malbec with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Head-turning fruit perfumes are always possible here – but harnessing and optimising that aromatic potential is the point of this blend, which actually steals from the glass stealthily and convinces by slow increments. On the palate, the wine is wide, amply dimensioned and naturally balanced, with textural wealth. The blend has brought complexity to what is clearly outstanding fruit. It’s young still, and a…

GOLD White 95 Bründlmayer, Riesling Ried Heiligenstein 1ÖTW, Kamptal 2020 (12.5%) £36-£37 Bancroft, Noble Green Refined and elegant nose displaying aromas of tropical fruit, peaches, apricots, lemon zest and tangerine. Fine minerality on the palate with crisp acidity and good length. 95 Hermann Moser, Der Löss Grüner Veltliner Ried Gebling 1ÖTW, Kremstal 2021 (13.5%) POA $ Boutique Wine Collection Ambitious nose showing pristine fruit aromas of ripe apricots, peaches, white pepper and elegant oak nuances. Complex and multilayered, with a juicy character. Very long. 95 Neukamp & Stadler, Reserve Pinot Gris Ried Lehendorf, Burgenland 2019 (14%) £30.99 Wine Embargo Intriguing and appealing nose of pear custard, star anise, vanilla, caramel and tropical fruits. Supple and impressive on the palate, generous and powerful. Long finish. AUSTRIA WON 2 Best in show…

GOLD White 96 Château de la Crée, Santenay 1er Cru Gravières 2019 (13.5%) A quite tightly wound nose with attractive peach and nectarine balanced by hints of butter and spice. Bright and precise, citrus freshness and plenty of energy. Very intense and concentrated with outstanding focus. 96 Pinson, Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2020 (13%) POA £ Berry Bros & Rudd, Christopher Piper, Goedhuis & Co POA $ Michael Skurnik Creamy and rich; this splits the difference between the ripe, lush character of the vintage and the steely freshness of Les Clos. Fabulous ripe apricot and nectarine, white flowers and a tangy, salty edge. 95 Château de Meursault, Meursault 1er Cru Perrières 2020 (13.5%) £97.68 Justerini & Brooks Powerful and rich but not overly heavy – aheady balance, well calibrated.…

Abruzzo GOLD Red 96 Cantina Tollo, Cagiòlo Riserva, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2017 (14.5%) £23.95 Eurowines Ripe black berries, cherries cassis and violet. Delicate palate of black chocolate, liquorice, coffee and vanilla. Supple with velvety tannins. Intensity, depth and refreshing finish. Great ageing potential. 95 Cascina del Colle, Negus, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2015 (15.5%) Vivid roast plum, dark cherry, vanilla and star anise aromas. Enticing savoury component on the palate with plush and polished tannins, and juicy, vibrant acidity. Impressive concentration, poised finish. Still fresh for the vintage. Lazio GOLD Red 96 Omina Romana, Ars Magna Merlot 2018 (14%) Generous cherry and plum, liquorice and black pepper. Plush with glossy tannins and appealing red berry conserve, some floral hints and wellintegrated oak. Plenty of substance for further ageing. 95 Pileum, Bolla di Urbano,…

GOLD White 95 Fritz Wassmer, Kaiserberg Herbolzheim Chardonnay, Baden 2019 (12.5%) POA £ Daniel Lambert Refined; ripe apricots, pears, hints of fine toasting, mild spices. Freshness, balance, well-structured with green fruit and subtle oak. Stunning. 95 Fritz Wassmer, Sommerhalde Bombach Grauer Burgunder, Baden 2019 (13.5%) POA £ Daniel Lambert Elegant pear and hazelnut bouquet. Unfurls brilliantly to reveal a fresh expression with near-perfect length and balance. Lemon acidity, good freshness, balance. One is likely to finish the bottle in one sitting. GOLD Red 96 Fritz Wassmer, Sommerhalde Bombach Spätburgunder, Baden 2019 (13.5%) POA £ Daniel Lambert Elegant, expressive; Morello cherries, blackberries, red berries, hints of fine toasting. Concentrated palate with juicy fruits, lingering acidity and superb length. Irresistible. 95 Martin Wassmer, Schlatter Maltesergarten GC Pinot Noir, Baden 2019 (13%) GERMANY…

GOLD Sparkling white 95 Ackerman, Royal, Crémant de Loire 2017 (12%) Fantastic development on the nose with baked apple and toast characters. Fresh and lively with mouthfilling fruit flavours. Attractively bitter on the finish. 95 Domaine du Clos des Aumônes, Brut, Vouvray NV (12%) Beautifully textured, elegant mousse and intense creaminess. Complex and fresh on the finish. GOLD White 95 Barton & Guestier, Les Petites Parcelles Chenin Blanc, Vouvray 2020 (12%) Off-dry with opulent apricot and nectarine, as well as green apple notes. Attractive balance of sweet fruit and acidity on the long finish. LOIRE WON 0 Best in show (see p31) 4 Platinum (see p61) For Silver-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/bronze 95 Domaine FL, Savennières-Roche aux Moines 2018 (15%) Elegantly restrained…

Friuli Venezia Giulia GOLD White 96 Vidussi, Sauvignon, Collio 2019 (13.2%) Generous, almost unctuous, fresh papaya and mango framed by chalky minerality and oak spice. Compelling palate with meticulous texture. Full but balanced, long and enticing. Irresistible drinking. 95 Amandum, A Grey, Friuli Isonzo 2018 (13%) Toasty oak, honeyed apple, floral, plum and spicy nose. Delicate floral character and opulent flavours of ripe pear, stone fruits and crème pâtissière, with a long and textured almond finish. 95 La Roncaia, Pinot Grigio, Friuli Colli Orientali 2020 (13.5%) £20.50 Winery Classic Dry with a bright green/yellow apple and citrus nose. Toasty notes round out the pure, lightly tropical flavours. Stately yet reserved, with a lightly chewy texture. Its length is impressive. NORTHERN ITALY WON 0 Best in show (see p31) 4 Platinum…

GOLD Fortified 96 Bodegas Hidalgo-La Gitana, Faraon VORS 30 Year Old Oloroso (20%) £60-£64/50cl Amathus Drinks, Frazier’s, The Whisky Exchange Rich, intense, with an amazing baroque oxidative complexity. Drink in short sips, meditatively: its extremely well-integrated alcohol elevates the roasted walnuts and bitter orange peel. 96 Harveys, VORS 30 Years Pedro Ximénez (16%) £50-£51/50cl Harvey Nichols, Master of Malt, The Drink Shop, The Whisky Exchange Intriguing and exceptionally concentrated, with burnt caramel and dried fig aromatics. An oily, thick, blockbuster style with mocha, spicy, meaty, nutty and savoury flavours, crème brulée, all through into a protracted aftertaste. 96 Harveys, VORS 30 Years Very Old Amontillado (19%) £49-£51/50cl Harvey Nichols, Master of Malt, The Drink Shop, The Whisky Exchange Heady popcorn kernel, leather, chocolate and caramel aromas with bursts of cinnamon.…

GOLD Sparkling white 96 Cavas Hill, Col.lecció Privada Gran Reserva Brut Nature, Cava 2017 (11.5%) Sensational scents of honey drizzled over fig, a touch of caramel, lemon peel, spice, toast, beeswax, coconut and buttered popcorn. Beautifully defined and simultaneously powerful and delicate. 96 Dominio de la Vega, Reserva Especial Brut, Cava 2018 (12.5%) Green apple, lanolin, almond scents. A complex medley of apricot, peach, lime zest and zesty lemon; fine, creamy mousse. Classic Cava pure and delicate, with huge complexity and a lifted persistence. 95 Marrugat, Suspirum Brut Nature, Cava 2016 (11.5%) POA £ Wine Poole Superb fresh white peach, brioche, yellow apple, lemon skin and yeasty bouquet. The palate has refreshing acidity; evolved, fruit concentration, mineral and a pleasant grip. Vivid mousse, fine, persistent. Compelling, food-friendly. SPAIN WON 4…

GOLD White 95 Panizzi, Riserva, Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2017 (14%) £31.75 Astrum Wine Cellars, Field & Fawcett, Sociovino $37 Panebianco Full nose of baked orchard fruits, grilled nuts, smoky, sesameseed oak, pastry, sweet herbal nuances. Creamy texture, rich confit white fruits; vibrant with a nice stony backbone. Burgundian. GOLD Red 96 Collosorbo, Brunello di Montalcino 2017 (14.5%) £42-£55 Fortnum & Mason, Fox Fine Wines, Gauntleys Intense aromas of red fruits soaked in balsamic, with complex earthy-mineral notes, aromatic spices, a tangy accent of sour fruit; freshness and complexity. Velvety-smooth mouthfeel, lovely balance. 96 Mazzei, Tenuta Belguardo Riserva, Maremma Toscana 2018 (14%) POA £ Maisons Marques et Domaines Sophistication, polish, complexity. Beautifully aromatic Mediterranean herbs, balsamic-soaked blackcurrants. Sweet wood, cigar box, grass, earth; intense finish, solid but elegant tannins. 96…

USA GOLD White 95 Marimar Estate, La Masía Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, California 2019 (14%) £38 Liquorice Wine, Paul Adams Vibrant nose of apple and pear with hints of reduction. Brilliant upfront oak spice, fine vanilla and custard cream. Big and bold with pleasing length and complexity on the finish. 95 Scott Peterson, SP Drummer Chardonnay, Petaluma Gap, California 2020 (14.3%) US$42.99 Naked Wines Lean nose, layered fruits of yellow apple, quince, mango and melon with hints of struck match. Ripe pear and red apple with honey, lees and cream on the palate with crisp acid and toasty oak. Long and vibrant. USA & CENTRAL AMERICA WON 1 Best in show (see p31) 4 Platinum (see p61) For Silver-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to decanter.com/…

Don’t bottle up your thoughts – email editor@decanter.com Sussex vs English wine As a Sussex resident you may think that I would be thrilled that Sussex has been granted official PDO status (‘Uncorked’, August 2022 issue). Heralded by many as a momentous achievement and hugely significant, I am less sure. While it would be churlish not to raise a glass to those who have tirelessly campaigned for this, I would urge caution. Sussex does share a similar climate and terroir to the Champagne region. But surely it is difficult to argue that Kent, Hampshire or Dorset lack distinctive or even similar terroir, and already the PDO status for Sussex has sown disquiet in the developing English wine industry, postentially fostering division and confusing the public. Surely the case that needs…

Wood and winemaking. It might sound prosaic; after all, wine has been made in wood for centuries. What could be more quotidian? But scratch just below the surface and a world of alchemy and wonder awaits. Mostly, wood for wine is made into barrels. These practical vessels are resilient, easy to repair, transportable and more or less water (wine?)- tight. They also come in many shapes and sizes, which is important because when it comes to wood and wine, size really does matter. Wood is semi-porous, meaning that air can permeate through it, and the vaporous elements of wine in the other direction. In a small barrel, the wine-to-surface ratio is relatively high, so the oxidative impact will be greater than in a tonneau of 900 litres or more. Here,…

Tequila has different age classifications – blanco, reposado, añejo and extra añejo – depending on how much time the spirit spends in barrel. Blancos spend no time in oak, while añejos spend at least one year, and extra añejos a minimum of three years. Reposado translates as ‘rested’, and is defined as being aged in oak for at least two months but less than a year. This means reposados are versatile tequilas that you can either use in cocktails or sip neat. 1 AquaRiva Reposado £29.99-£32/70cl Amazon UK, Drink Supermarket, Soho Wine Supply, The Drink Shop Cleo Rocos of TV’s The Kenny Everett Video Show fame is a bona fide tequila lover, and AquaRiva is her own brand, created specifically with cocktails in mind. The reposado is aged for a…

The amount of salt you use can have a significant impact on the wine you’re drinking. In general salt (or salty foods) can make white wine taste sweeter, which may not necessarily be what you want, particularly if you’re eating seafood. It can also heighten the effect of dosage in fizz and tannins in red – though freshly ground black pepper can offset that. In fact, despite the title, this dish is not excessively salty – it’s more about the fact it’s fried and what you add on the side by way of a dipping sauce. If you decide to accompany it with some kind of Asian dip or dressing you might be looking at something like a Grüner Veltliner or a Riesling. But for the dish on its own,…

Ihad high hopes for this tasting, given the unprecedented, unbroken run of good to very good vintages from 2014 to 2020. Although there were some very good wines, there were also too many disappointments, even from 2018, showing harsh, green tannins that may never soften. Fellow judge Ben Llewelyn confirmed this outlook: ‘The overall impression of the wines was moderate, with some shining stars. Difficult vintages, especially a series of frosted years, have tested the mettle and patience of growers in the region and it showed in many of the wines.’ The tasting covered vintages from 2021 to 2014, plus one from 2011. There were examples from the Pays Nantais, Anjou, Saumur and Chinon, Bourgueil and St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, but none from eastern Touraine. Awarding two Outstanding and 18 Highly recommended, it…

RECOMMENDED BY JAMES BUTTON, NATALIE EARL, TINA GELLIE, INES SALPICO, JULIE SHEPPARD & SYLVIA WU Cottonworth, Classic Cuvée Brut, Hampshire, 92 95 England NV £30 Hic Refined nose with bread, red apple and brioche. Residual sugar is on the higher end of the brut spectrum, giving a touch of sweetness to the crisp palate of crunchy red fruits and white pepper. Three years of ageing on lees adds buttery, creamy depth and a long finish. SW Alc 12% Le Soula, Blanc, Côtes Catalanes, Roussillon, France 2015 B £33 Tanners Deep in the proudly Occitan Fenouillèdes, Le Soula farms biodynamically and ferments with indigenous yeasts. In an excellent spot right now, crushed dried herbs and a spicy white pepper twinkle melding with confit lemon, vanilla, ginger and cumin. NE Alc 13.5%…

Decanter Rhône expert Matt Walls reaffirmed this wine’s greatness in a recently published vertical tasting of Domaine de la Janasse, Vieilles Vignes from 2000 to 2011 vintages inclusive. ‘This is a great Châteauneuf in the making, but there is much to be gained by waiting,’ said Walls, scoring the 2010 vintage 98 points yet noting it needs more cellaring to open up fully. The wine’s alcohol level is 15.5%, yet Walls praised its ‘exceptionally fine texture’ with ‘great purity and balance’. Available at about £1,500 per 12x75cl in bond (Bordeaux Index), its price is above several more recent vintages. PREMIUM Collectors and investors will find a wealth of useful information on decanter.com/premium, including expert assessments of the latest vintage releases and comprehensive tasting notes. Current reports available on our website…

China GOLD Sparkling white 95 Chandon, Brut, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia NV (12.5%) Elegant and vibrant aromas of crisp apples and zesty yellow citrus with a subtly creamy character. Very smooth and soft on the palate, harmonious, with fine bubbles. GOLD White 96 Pernod Ricard Ningxia, Helan Mountain Premium Collection Chardonnay, Ningxia 2017 (12.5%) The nose displays flinty mineral notes of wet stones, framed by savoury aromas, peachy scents and delicate creamy oak. Medium-bodied, somewhat buttery texture. 95 Pernod Ricard Ningxia, Helan Mountain Reserve ASIA WON 0 Best in show (see p31) 1 Platinum (see p61) For Silver-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/bronze Chardonnay, Ningxia 2017 (12.5%) Complex, intriguing bouquet, scents of baked apples, ripe lemons and layered tropical fruits, wet stone undertones.…

Bosnia & Herzegovina GOLD White 96 Vilinka, Selekcija, Mostarsko Vinogorje 2021 (13%) A textbook Zilavka (grape) with beautiful minerality and lifted vibrancy. Green citrus develops soft almonds, vanilla hints, floral accents and a touch of fresh spice. Good expression, with a mineral-textured palate and lovely limey length. Bulgaria GOLD Red 95 Katarzyna, Mavrud, Thracian Valley 2020 (14.5%) Inky, dark and super-extracted without being jammy. Opens with black fruit, liquorice and cloves, then lovely accents of asphalt, mint, eucalyptus and caramel. Youthful and fresh with fruit intensity. Croatia GOLD White 96 DeMar, Graševina, Zagorje-Međimurje, Continental 2020 (12.1%) A haunting aroma of white flowers opens to spicy jasmine, summer pears and lifted green-lemon notes. The palate grows with a sweet and spicy expression of quince, nectarine, jasmine and honeysuckle. An elegant and…

GOLD Sparkling white 96 Henry of Pelham, Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc de Blancs Brut, Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario 2016 (12.5%) Pretty, inviting and elegant, with aromas of crisp green apple and bright citrus leading to a textured palate graced with a fine mousse and poised, focused fruit. Highly drinkable! GOLD White 96 Culmina, Unicus Grüner Veltliner, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia 2020 (14%) Inviting and aromatic, a pretty nose of white pepper, a touch of smoke and bright, fresh green apple, moving on to a textured palate layered with a lifted, bright acidity and a zesty orange peel finish. 96 Ravine Vineyard, Small Batch Riesling, Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario 2021 (10.7%) Aromatic and beautifully perfumed white florals, tangy citrus peel, zesty apricot and lemon oil,…

GOLD Sparkling white 96 Charles Collin, Brut NV (12%) Zesty nectarine and Mirabelle plum aromas, gentle bread and fruit peel notes, pistachio and almond undertones. Refined, steely mid-palate, intensity of flavour and notes of white chocolate. Superior. 96 Charles Heidsieck, Blanc de Blancs NV (12%) £59.95-£75 Hedonism, Hic, Iconic Wines, Lockett Bros, ND John, North & South, Oddbins, The Whisky Exchange, Wine Republic Rich and full, with a smoky, flinty note to begin. Aromas of dried and baked fruits, and woody and autolytic notes. Very serious, with intense biscuit and toast, and a classy texture. Charming. CHAMPAGNE WON 2 Best in show (see p31) 7 Platinum (see p61) For Silver-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/bronze 96 Rare, Millésime Brut 2008 (12%) £150-£160 Brunswick,…

Cyprus GOLD White 95 Makarounas, Spourtiko, Regional Wines, Paphos 2020 (10.5%) Gentle aromas of white blossoms, waxy lemon and steely minerality. Fresh, juicy and very elegant, acidity linear but not sharp, plenty of fruit. GOLD Red 95 Dafermou, Yıannoudı, Larnaca 2020 (13%) Perfumed and elegant nose showing delicate aromas of blackberry leaf and plums, red roses and green tea. Delicate palate with juicy tannins, focused and long. Greece GOLD White 96 Anhydrous, Icon, Santorini, Aegean Islands 2020 (14%) £48.50 Amathus Drinks Light, delicate, restrained aromas of subtle oak with crystalline zesty nuances. Silky and elegant, with a firm structure and lingering finish. 96 Estate Argyros, Cuvée Nykteri, Santorini, Aegean Islands 2019 (15%) Toasty nose with notes of brioche and touches of struck match. Quite muscular on the palate. Big, with…

GOLD Sparkling rosé 95 No1 Family Estate, Rosé, Marlborough NV (13%) £29.50 Amathus Drinks $40.50 NZ Wine Navigator Intriguing aromas of strawberry, blossom, toast and hints of savoury and earthy notes. Lovely weight and texture, bright acidity, saline finish. GOLD White 96 Dunnolly, Pinot Gris, Canterbury 2021 (13.1%) $19.99 Naked Wines Mineral and white-fleshed fruit bouquet, aromas of crunchy green pear and apple, quince and a floral quality. Crisp and fruity, refreshing, precise and elegant. 95 Craggy Range, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2021 (13%) £15.99-£18.50 Harvey Nichols, NZ House of Wine, Specialist Cellars, Waitrose Cellar Super-classic bouquet with a pungent, fresh character of apple and grapefruit. Fleshy, well-textured, succulent fruit and vibrant acidity. Delicious. 95 Esk Valley, Seabed Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay 2019 (13%) £24.40 Christopher Keiller, Hatch Mansfield White smoke and…

GOLD Sparkling white 95 Vallebelbo, Cesare Pavese Brut, Alta Langa 2018 (12%) Green apple aromas open to reveal rich brioche, croissant and yoghurt characters with some fresh pear and crisp red berry fruits. There’s a lively lemon pith and chalk finish that provides fresh balance. GOLD Red 96 ForteMasso, Castelletto Riserva, Barolo 2015 (14.5%) £86.95 Independent Wine An open-knit, spicy, earthy wine of refined concentration. Forest floor and black fruits underpin ethereal clouds of sweet spices, toasted notes and mineral complexity. Huge tannins wrap the palate in structure, and the finish is long and tightly wound. PIEDMONT WON 1 Best in show (see p31) 1 Platinum (see p61) For Silver-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to decanter.com/ dwwa/bronze 96 Marchesi di Barolo, Cannubi, Barolo 2018 (14%)…

GOLD White 96 Château Calissanne, Clos Victoire, Coteaux d’Aixen-Provence 2021 (13.5%) Lovely aromas of delicate citrus, honey, hay and herbs. Terrific freshness and depth, with grapefruit, ripe lemon, thyme, fennel and olive oil notes. Multi-layered with great length and elegance. 95 Château les Valentines, Le Grand Huit, Côtes de Provence La Londe 2020 (13.5%) Perfumed lemon oil, saffron, honeysuckle, tropical, pink peppercorn aromas. Lemon and olive oil, spiced quince, blood orange curd. Succulent fruit, integrated oak and depth. GOLD Rosé 96 Château de Saint-Martin, Eternelle Favorite, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé 2021 (12.5%) POA £ Vagabond Wonderfully expressive aromas of wild flowers and pink citrus. Classically styled palate with creamy strawberry and cherry fruit, as well as zingy pink grapefruit flavours, a silky texture and long, mineral, saline finish. Very…

GOLD Sparkling white 95 Le Lude, Reserve Brut, Western Cape 2013 (12%) £32.50 Hard to Find Wines Complex aromas of brioche, bruised apple, stone fruit, a slight spearmint lift. Fresh, with delicate biscuit, floral and citrus flavours. Very elegant, with a creamy mousse and a persistent finish. GOLD White 96 Delaire Graff, Reserve Chardonnay, Banghoek, Stellenbosch 2020 (14.3%) £21.84 Armit Rich, creamy macadamia and citrus marmalade with salty crackers and smoked lime. Bright, taut and crisp; tangy marmalade, sweet lemon and stone fruit, breadth and richness. Appetising intensity. 96 Doolhof, Môrestond Chardonnay, Limietberg, Wellington 2018 (12.5%) £39.99 London City Bond Beautifully bright and youthful at four years old. A smoky nose adds complexity to the lime and yuzu citrus aromas. The palate offers a crisp, somewhat pithy, almost-grapefruit tang. Vibrant…

GOLD White 95 Hauner Carlo, Iancura, Terre Siciliane 2021 (13%) A more herbaceous style with a touch of wet wool and some mineral edges, candied lemon and white pepper nuances. Lovely silky texture, salty finish. GOLD Rosé 95 Duca di Salaparuta, Calanìca Rosato, Terre Siciliane 2020 (11.5%) $11 Beverage Warehouse, Saratoga wine Exchange Onion skin colour, and a really pretty nose of cherry blossom and some strawberry, as well as a hint of briary fruit. Lovely lifted fruit on the palate. GOLD Red 96 Feudo Disisa, Granmassenti Perricone, Monreale 2018 (14%) £21.95 Jeroboams Minty and balsamic nose displaying aromas of porcine sweetmeats, blackcurrant and red cherry notes. Structured and round; juicy with lovely fine but firm tannins. 95 Colomba Bianca, Resilience Perricone, Sicilia 2021 (14.5%) Mint, white chocolate and strawberry…

GOLD White 96 Adrian & Diego Mathier, L’Ambassadeur des Domaines Diego Mathier, Valais 2020 (13.5%) Pretty, inviting aromatics of lemon, dried flower, dried peach and clove lead on to a plush palate of yellow plum, orange zest, citrus fruit, lush peach, a savoury minerality and beautiful spiced notes. 96 Adrian & Diego Mathier, Les Pyramides Heida, Valais 2020 (13.5%) Inviting, with a pretty nose of juicy pineapple and mango enveloped in vanilla and spice. A smoky palate is laced with gunpowder, oolong tea, lychee, peach and a touch of apricot. 95 Louis Bovard, Ilex Calamin Grand Cru, Lavaux, Vaud 2020 (13%) Perfumed, exotic nose of mango, spice, vanilla and floral undertones, then a seductive palate of pineapple flavours with sleek mineral notes and a lovely freshness. SWITZERLAND WON 1 Best…

GOLD Sparkling white 96 Gusbourne, Blanc de Noirs Brut, Kent 2018 (12%) £59 Gusbourne Enticing, complex nose of strawberries, orchard fruits, plums, cherries and honey. On the palate, summer fruits and more honey, apples, bread and caramel. Wonderfully complex with a long finish of toffee and caramel. 96 Hattingley Valley, Classic Reserve Brut, Hampshire NV (12%) £29.99-£37.50 Caviste, Eton Vintners, Grape Britannia, Harvey Nichols, The Great Wine Co, The Naked Grape, Virgin Wines, Waitrose Cellar, Wickhams Nuts, citrus, flint, green apples and blossom on the nose. Complex, with a core of fruit supplemented by savoury bread flavours: green apples, quince, honey, lemon and pear skins. An assertive mousse and a bold green apple and honeysuckle finish. UNITED KINGDOM WON 1 Best in show (see p31) 1 Platinum (see p61) For…

GOLD Sparkling white 96 Colesel, Quota 430 Tridik Extra Brut, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore 2020 (11.5%) A ripe and mature nose with a delicate fragrance of rose petals. Rich yet elegant, opening into lemon, grapefruit, yellow fruits, dried herbs and a biscuity accent. Creamy texture, finishes with a wet-stone mineral element. 96 Terre di San Venanzio Fortunato, Brut, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze 2020 (11.5%) £29.99 Vinissimo An expressive, floral and fruity wine with lovely notes of peach blossom, pear, dried petals and golden apples. Well proportioned, showing a mouthfilling creaminess with a dry, sapid finish. 95 Cantinae Clara C’, Brut, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze NV (11.5%) An attractive, delicate and floral aroma opens to notes of fresh pear and ripe grapefruit. Dry, with a mouthfilling and slightly creamy…