Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2022 i Decanter

EDITOR’S LETTER A world of possibilities As we go to press, quite a few of the Decanter team are dusting off wheelie bags and rummaging through drawers for long-unused passports. International wine trade shows seem to be back at long last, with glamorous destinations like Paris, Verona and, er, Düsseldorf in prospect over the next few months. The return of easier travel also means that many of our international DWWA judges will at long last be able to come to London from their home countries, which is excellent. But best of all is that the (hopeful) return of normality means that we can all start thinking about where we’d like to holiday this year, and of course what we’d like to drink once we get there. What’s on your wishlist?…

A DRINK WITH… SUSANA BALBO Argentina’s first female oenologist and owner of her eponymous winery in Mendoza, she’s been a passionate advocate for the country’s wines, heading up Wines of Argentina three times and earning the nickname ‘Queen of Torrontés’. She launched her first wine tourism project ‘Susana Balbo Unique Stays’ in February ‘Wine tourism is very important for Mendoza. We jumped from 800 people visiting our winery 10 years ago to 30,000 people visiting in 2019. ‘Cabernet from Argentina is a hidden treasure – I hope people will discover it. When you see the quality of Cabernet from Argentina against other countries, you need to pay at least twice to achieve the same quality. Consumers always go for the easy part of Argentina: Malbec. But Argentina is more than Malbec.…

2019 revisited Bordeaux in bottle After tasting more than 800 newly bottled 2019 wines, Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent is full of praise for the vintage’s consistent and expressive wines, with successes on both Left and Right Bank REPORT GEORGINA HINDLE Despite Covid-19 severely reducing en primeur tasting opportunities for the 2019 wines, the vintage at the time was rightly hailed as a success. Even now, ongoing restrictions have limited much of the exposure a vintage of this quality might have seen in ordinary circumstances. Fortunately, having been able to taste in situ now that the wines have been bottled, it’s certain this is an excellent and very consistent vintage with some fantastic wines, across both the Left and Right Banks, in all styles. It comes in the middle of a trilogy,…

My life as a personal wine consultant It isn’t a job you’ll see advertised, so what does it take to become one? Right place, right time? Experience, qualifications, hard work, connections? All of those and more, it turns out STORY CHARLES CURTIS MW Tongue firmly in cheek, I sometimes define ‘wine consultant’ as ‘someone lacking employment who will work for whoever pays them’. Although meant in jest, the implied question is valid: just what does a wine consultant do? More importantly, in this age, when every assistant in a retail shop styles him- or herself a sales consultant, who would hire one? The short answer is this: a wine consultant is someone who advises wine lovers about their passion. He or she advises buyers on what to buy (and at…

A heavy price Making glass bottles lighter is an easy way to reduce wine’s carbon emissions – yet it remains a weighty issue for the industry, with many producers yet to make changes STORY RUPERT JOY I don’t know about you, but wine is an important part of my life, and I want to feel good about drinking it. The inconvenient truth – to borrow the title of Al Gore’s 2006 film on global warming – is that wine lovers are complicit in an escalating climate emergency. We are part of the problem. Of all the ways we can reduce the environmental impact of our consumption (see December 2021 issue, ‘Rethinking your drinking’), the easiest win is to avoid buying wine in heavy bottles, because glass bottles are the single…

SPONSORED GUIDE FURMINT AND FOOD: SOMMELIERS RECOMMEND ‘Furmint can make easy-drinking, lightly fruity dry wines – alternatives to Chablis or Sancerre,’ says Klearhos Kanellakis, head sommelier at Ekstedt at the Yard in Westminster, central London. But, he adds: ‘I would insist on single-vineyard versions from low-yield vines for the best examples, which belong in the same place as top wines from Burgundy or Alsace, fine German Riesling or good Santorini. Wines with personality, complexity, a unique profile and ageability. ‘We use Dobogó’s Tokaji Furmint 2017 [£24 Theatre of Wine] for our wine pairing. The dish is charcoal cream, dried potato, smoked venison and ember baked leek with a Swedish roe. It’s a signature dish of our chef Niklas Ekstedt, whose restaurant in Stockholm holds a Michelin star. This smoky, savoury,…

Distilled Your guide to the latest trends in spirits and cocktails EDITED BY JULIE SHEPPARD Small be-gin-ings Two new low-alcohol gins are proving that small is beautiful, with products that are little in size but big on taste. Smidgin, launched by Suffolk-based distillery Adnams, is distilled with 10 times the amount of botanicals used in a regular bottle of gin. This means that you only need 2.5ml (half a teaspoon) mixed with 200ml of tonic to create a full-flavoured G&T with just 0.6% alcohol. Offering up warm spiciness and creamy florality, botanicals include coriander seed, cardamom pods, orris root and hibiscus, alongside plenty of classic juniper character. Inginious from Sloemotion Distillery in North Yorkshire, is made in the same way, but with more citrus botanicals, including lemongrass, grapefruit and lime.…

GIN Five to try: gins with British juniper SELECTED BY PETER RANSCOMBE 1 Badvo Gin £39.95/70cl Badvo, Craft Bottle Shop, Craft56, Master of Malt Helen Stewart opened Badvo distillery on her family’s farm at Pitlochry in Perthshire in 2018 when she was just 22. Her Scottish juniper delivers damp pine, blaeberry, and a savoury tang on the nose, developing into delicious orange zest and runny honey on the palate. Alcohol 45% 2 Becketts Type 1097 London Dry Gin £32-£39.99/70cl Beckett’s, D&R Group, Master of Malt, Noble Green Made in London using juniper from Box Hill in Surrey and mint from Kingston-upon-Thames, Beckett’s offers gentle mint and lemon aromas, with spearmint and lime flavours balanced by a rounded texture and spicy black pepper notes on the finish. Alc 40% 3 Crossbill Small…

Wine wisdom Our regular learning section helps you get more from your glass HOW TO… Let wine breathe Some wines will benefit from exposure to oxygen before you drink them. This ‘opens’ the wine, releasing layers of aroma as well as softening the tannins. Here’s how to do it properly. 1 Make an effort Just opening the wine and leaving the contents in the bottle won’t really help. The neck opening is so small that your wine won’t get enough air in time for dinner. Decanting accelerates the breathing process by encouraging volatile aromas to evaporate, emphasising the fruit and oak aromas in the wine. 2 Double up Youthful wines with strong tannins benefit from double decanting – being poured into a decanter then back into the bottle. ‘This is a good…

Editors’ picks Each month our editorial team tastes a lot of wine, but not all of it makes it on to the page. So here’s our in-house pick of other great wines we’ve tried DISCOVERIES, DRY AND SWEET AMY WISLOCKI Three miscellaneous wines have captivated me this month. First, a delicious grower Champagne, the Dosage Zéro from Eric Rodez (£56.50 The Champagne Co) in Ambonnay. This is a family Champagne house, now in the hands of the eighth generation, and winemaker Eric benefited from experience elsewhere in the region, including as oenologist at Krug. A delicious blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, it is 80% vinified in small oak and contains 30% reserve wines. Dry and focused, it has a beguiling weight of creamy, ripe fruit. Next, a…

PANEL TASTING RED GRAVES The Decanter guarantee Our buying guide provides you with trusted, independent, expert recommendations on what to buy, drink and cellar. Each panel tasting is judged by three experienced tasters chosen for their authority in the category of wine being rated. All wines are tasted blind and are pre-poured for judges in flights of 8-10 wines. Our experts taste and score wines individually but then discuss their scores together at the end of each flight. Any wines on which scores are markedly different are retasted; however, judges are under no obligation to amend their scores. Judges are encouraged to look for typicity in wines, rewarding those that are true to their region. When judging, experts are aware of wine price bands – under £15, £15-£30 and over…

WEEKEND WINES Planning to splash out a little bit more to celebrate your weekend in style? As a companion selection to our 25 wines under £20, the Decanter team has selected seven standout bottles that are sure to impress, all available in the UK and priced between £20 and £50 RECOMMENDED BY JAMES BUTTON, NATALIE EARL, TINA GELLIE, INES SALPICO, JULIE SHEPPARD, AMY WISLOCKI Harrow & Hope, Brut Rosé, England 2018 £32 Laithwaites Described as a ‘truly exceptional year’, by founders Henry and Kaye Laithwaite, this 2018 rosé from their 6.5ha vineyard in the Chilterns offers ripe red Pinot Noir fruits and sweet spice, with Chardonnay structure and Pinot Meunier panache, and almost-tart acidity. JB Alc 12% Mas Mudigliza, Caudalouis, Côtes Catalanes, Roussillon, France 2019 £20.50 Champagnes & Châteaux This sappy…

LOOKING AHEAD CHATEAU LATOUR 2014 Château Latour 2014 is set to be released on 15 March, the Pauillac first growth confirmed to Decanter. It will become the youngest Latour grand vin on the market. The estate left Bordeaux’s en primeur system in 2012. Forts de Latour 2016 is also due for release on 15 March. ORNELLAIA 2019 Bolgheri’s regional wine consorzio said the 2019 vintage ‘promises to be outstanding’. Ornellaia 2019 will be released on 1 April, and the blend includes 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 31% Merlot. UK merchant Goedhuis & Co said it expected to offer Ornellaia 2019 in April. PROMONTORY 2016 Bordeaux Index said it expected to offer the latest vintage from Promontory – a rising Napa star from the Harlan family – in March. The 2016 has…

THE BORDEAUX INDEX VIEW Fine wine & spirits specialist Bordeaux Index kindly sponsors this section of Decanter, and provides its view on the market here. It can be found at bordeauxindex.com Bordeaux saw a surge in trade in 2021, with volumes on Bordeaux Index’s LiveTrade online platform up by about 40% year-on-year. Prices rose by an average of 12%, with Château Lafite leading the first growths and Figeac being the best-performing Right Bank wine, given the speculation around the 2022 reclassification. There were few wines that really lagged the market, with Super Seconds averaging around the 8%-9% level and seeing strong demand. The real story of the year was the outperformance of younger vintages – seen in Lafite most markedly – on the back of strong US and Asian demand;…

Meet the Decanter experts CHARLES CURTIS is a widely published journalist, author and fine-wine advisor based in New York. Formerly head of wine for Christie’s in the US and Asia, he started out as a chef and travelled to Paris to train at Le Cordon Bleu MALU LAMBERT is a widely published wine writer based in South Africa. A taster for Platter’s Guide, she judges on various panels, and won Emerging Wine Writer of the Year at the Louis Roederer Wine Writers’ Awards 2019 CAMERON DOUGLAS MS is a widely published wine writer, judge, educator and consultant. He has served on the board of directors for the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas, and is a DWWA judge BRIDGET McGROUTHER is a widely published travel writer, with articles in The Telegraph, Mail on Sunday,…

UNCORKED DREAM DESTINATION Castiglion del Bosco, Tuscany, Italy With its rambling villas, five-star service and Brunello di Montalcino winery, this picturesque Tuscan wine estate and hotel is a must-visit for Brunello lovers. The remarkable hilltop enclave of Castiglion del Bosco once housed a medieval castle. After falling into disrepair, it was purchased by fashion scion Massimo Ferragamo in 2003, and splendidly regenerated into a resort. The estate has grown grapes for centuries and in 1967 Castiglion del Bosco was one of the founding members of the Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino. The wine connection continues to thrive: the hotel endeavours to list every one of the Brunello region’s 240 producers. Its flagship wine experience? A full-day helicopter tour over the surrounding UNESCO-protected Val d’Orcia, including a stop at biodynamic Podere…

BORDEAUX 2019 Bordeaux 2019: weather & conditions Considering the five conditions used to determine the potential quality of great red Bordeaux, 2019 wasn’t entirely a straightforward year. Early bud break was slowed by poor weather in April and May, followed by flowering in early June under a spell of cool, wet weather, and was uneven in certain vineyards. From mid-June hot, dry weather arrived delivering a successful fruit set under ideal conditions. July was hot overall, however precipitation varied significantly due to localised rainstorms leading to vegetative growth ending at different times. A sunny August with alternating hot and warm weather favoured ripening. Early September was hot and dry, too, resulting in drought conditions that were saved by crucial rainfalls on both banks just before harvest, allowing the Merlots to…

VINTAGE PREVIEW An early taste of the top 2020 southern Rhônes Wines are listed by commune, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. Some 2020s are still being aged in barrel or are not yet bottled, hence some alcohols, prices and stockists were not yet confirmed. Contact your regular specialist merchants for latest availability, prices and en primeur offers Châteauneuf-du-Pape KEY PRODUCER Château Rayas 99 This has more length and breadth than most 2020 white Châteauneufs, with spiced citrus notes of satsuma and grapefruit decorated with cinnamon. Broad but not overly full-bodied, with bright acidity, tension and a tight mineral line. Long on the finish, with balanced alcohol, ending on pink grapefruit. A beautifully fine and fresh vintage of Rayas blanc. Drink 2022-2034 1 KEY PRODUCER & WHITE WINE OF…

THE CONSULTANT Wine consultant: services rendered Some clients want to be told what to buy and what to pay for it, while others love the thrill of the chase and make their own purchases. Most clients are somewhere on the spectrum between buying only to drink and buying only for investment – very few are purely motivated by one or the other. Work can include vetting stock prior to purchase, liaising with vendors on fulfilment, shipment and storage of wine and subsequent inspection, as well as negotiating returns if required. Many clients are more interested in selling than in buying, and I assist by negotiating the terms and conditions of the contract, the marketing of the sale, and the settlement of funds. Other clients are more interested in visiting wine regions…

SPONSORED GUIDE 12 TO ENJOY: A SMALL TASTER OF FURMINT’S VARIED STYLES 1 Kreinbacher, Prestige Brut, Somló 2016 97 £75/magnum Best of Hungary A glowing golden wine with fine bubbles. It has an ethereal nose with notes of lemon blossom, quince, acacia honey and nicely integrated biscuity autolysis. To taste, it’s incredibly vibrant with racy acidity, good fruit intensity and hints of lemon, quince and toasted brioche. The fine mousse is beautifully integrated and the finish is long and elegant. Organic. Drink 2022-2025 Alcohol 12.5% Tokaj Nobilis, Tokaji Pezsgő Brut, Tokaj 2017 92 £19.99 Novel Wines Pale and bright with fine bubbles. A delicate bouquet of apple crumble with lemon zest and quince. The palate is elegant and long, with notes of quince, apple blossom, a hint of biscuity autolysis…

SPONSORED GUIDE SPECTRUM OF FLAVOUR: GILBY’S 20 KEKFRANKOS WINES TO SEEK OUT 1 Dobosi, Rosé, Csopak, Balaton 2020 90 £11.90 Best of Hungary Mid-salmon pink in colour, this shows red cherry aromas, and on the palate there’s plenty of fruit along with good length and elegance. Drink 2022 Alcohol 12.5% 2 Sabar, Rosé, Badacsony, Balaton 2020 89 £11 Hungarian Wine House, Novel Wines Deep pink in colour, a fruit-focused nose with peach and red berry aromas. There’s just a touch of lively spritz, redcurrant, berry fruit and a fresh finish. Drink 2022 Alc 12% Kislaki, Rosé, Balatonboglár, Balaton 2020 88 £7.75 The Wine Society A vivid, deep pink wine with aromas of poached strawberry. It’s bright and lively with crunchy pink rhubarb notes and spritz for super freshness. Drink 2022…

SPIRITS FIVE OF THE BEST IRISH WHISKEYS Popular with drinkers around the world, Irish whiskey has experienced mixed fortunes in the past and the category nearly died out altogether a few decades ago. A renaissance was driven by big brands such as Jameson, but new distilleries have been appearing all over the country and single pot still – Ireland’s unique whiskey style, involving the use of unmalted barley – is blossoming again. RECOMMENDED BY JULIE SHEPPARD PHOTOGRAPH IVAN DANIK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS 1 Drumshanbo Single Pot Still £48.49-£55.98/70cl Amazon UK, Master of Malt, Old & Rare Whisky, Prestige Drinks, Royal Mile Whiskies, The Secret Bottle Shop This distinctive bottling is from The Shed Distillery in County Leitrim. Opened in 2014, it was the first new distillery in the…

PERFECT PAIRING Judy Joo’s Ultimate KFC This spicy Korean Fried Chicken dish features in a new book celebrating female chefs on the British food scene. We’ve matched it with wine styles that can take the heat STORY CLARE FINNEY RECIPE JUDY JOO In 2010, UK supermarket Waitrose unveiled its new ‘food ambassadors’: Delia Smith and Heston Blumenthal. The launch image, captioned ‘Britain’s best-loved cook’ and ‘Britain’s top chef’, featured Blumenthal in chef’s whites, arms crossed, while Smith smiled over his shoulder in a pretty white shirt. Of course, Blumenthal is by any measure a chef; Smith – having only briefly once worked in a restaurant – is not; yet the ad irked me. Why was Smith standing behind Blumenthal? Why was her success defined by how beloved she was, while…

If you like Sauvignon Blanc, why not try Bacchus Planted across the world, Sauvignon Blanc is an undisputed vineyard heavyweight. It is made in styles which run the gamut from sparkling to sweet, and from bargain-basement to some of the most expensive and ageworthy whites to be found. Oaked examples are rare outside the upper echelon; however, lees contact is a regularly used practice during production, adding texture and depth. Although a minor celebrity in comparison, in the Bacchus grape you will detect traits that echo the similarly aromatic Sauvignon Blanc: grass, gooseberry, green bell pepper, ‘cat’s pee’, herbs and elderflower to name just a handful. Named after the Roman name for the Greek god of wine, Dionysus, the Bacchus variety was created in 1933 by crossing Müller-Thurgau with a…

PANEL TASTING California Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 & 2018 This major tasting included the wildfire-hit 2017. No ill-effects were evident, but the 2018s won the day among the many high-scoring wines REPORT MICHELLE CHERUTTI-KOWAL MW Cabernet Sauvignon is a grape made for California. It excels in the long, sunny, warm and dry summers, enabling it to gain good physiological ripeness, and its thick skin means it can stand up to California’s sunshine. It is the most widely grown, with more than 38,000ha planted in 2020 (NASS/USDA, April 2021). Given its wide range of altitudes and terroirs, California can grow and make Cabernet Sauvignon to suit all styles and palates. And, as the 1976 Judgement of Paris tasting showed, California Cabernets can stand alongside the world’s best. I and my fellow judges…

EXPERT’S CHOICE NZ Chardonnay 2020 High scores for the 18 excellent wines selected here reflect the huge progress that’s been made by New Zealand’s Chardonnay producers in recent years, and prove that 2020 is a highly rated vintage STORY CAMERON DOUGLAS MS New Zealand Chardonnay has earned its place in your wine cellar, and I encourage you to take another look at what the country has been up to. Diverse styles across a range of prices offer far more texture, concentration and complexity than you may have found in the past. Chardonnay is grown in all wine regions in New Zealand, reflecting varied soil types and generally cooler-climate conditions. Some 16 clones are available, and average vine age for many growers of the variety is now 25 years, which is…

Marketwatch News from the world of investments and auctions Burgundy 2020 taps into ‘insatiable global demand’ COMPILED BY CHRIS MERCER Sponsored by Collector thirst for Burgundy 2020 en primeur wines has proved strong in a bullish market, and supplies of top names are expected to tighten further, say merchants and analysts. Liv-ex said trade sources were reporting strong demand for 2020-vintage en primeur wines, despite price rises. It noted an ‘insatiable global appetite’ for Burgundy, in a new report on the region. ‘Merchants are allocating ever greater numbers of premiers and grands crus in three-packs,’ it said, while also pointing to concerns about future supply shortages. UK merchant Goedhuis & Co said in an outlook for 2022: ‘We anticipate Burgundy prices will rise for back vintages, and meaningful volumes of stock…

Spotlight: Bordeaux Blue-chips a safe investment Bordeaux likely to remain buoyant as multiple dynamics drive collector and investment demand around the world Sponsored by Strong buyer demand has been pushing up prices for top Bordeaux wines, especially in younger vintages, and several fine wine merchants believe market dynamics will remain favourable in 2022. Blue-chip claret saw prices rise by some 15% across 2021, said fine wine merchant Bordeaux Index. At Liv-ex, the Bordeaux 500 index increased in value by 10.5% last year, and by 21% over five years – though it is worth noting that this is slower than several other regional indices. UK-based merchant Goedhuis & Co recently noted strong momentum for first growths and their Right Bank counterparts, in particular. ‘The story of Bordeaux last year was that…

Tasted & rated for Decanter Premium Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux 2016 Mouton Rothschild 2016 recently lived up to its billing as one of the stars of a benchmark year for Bordeaux. It received Andy Howard MW’s top score of 99 points at a tasting of Left and Right Bank 2016-vintage wines, including other first growths. ‘Massive and profound, it also retains wonderful freshness,’ said Howard of the Mouton 2016. ‘This Mouton stays light on its feet while carrying the structure to age for 50 years,’ he said. ‘This will probably be a 100-point wine with a few years’ extra ageing.’ Bordeaux Index was selling the wine at £3,275 for 6x75cl in bond. Collectors and investors will find a wealth of useful information on decanter.com/premium, including expert assessments…

WORKING WINE TO 5 Inside a professional’s everyday life Charlie Foley Wine auctioneer, Christie’s INTERVIEWED BY AMY WISLOCKI How did you get here? Ma and Pa are foodies – they whip something up and slosh something in a glass and set the world to rights. And I have tried to be likewise, always chasing the next glass. Sauvignon powering a Classics degree at uni, Rioja after a night working a restaurant floor, Malbec before hitting the hay at an Argentinian winery and now off-vintages of claret (we gotta sell the solid years!) in chilly, cobwebby cellars. What’s the best thing about your job? The people! It’s gotta be right, margins are tight and time zones aren’t beauty sleep’s friend. But meeting producers and lovers of this luscious liquid is worth the…

IN BRIEF Stay up to date with the latest wine news on decanter.com, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter @Decanter ◼ Sales of traditional-method Italian sparkling wine Franciacorta hit a record 20.3m bottles in 2021, said the regional consorzio, making it ‘a very positive year’, said Arturo Ziliani, CEO of producer Berlucchi. ‘Last year we sold everything we made,’ said Giulio Salti, winemaker at biodynamic estate 1701. Room for new vineyards is tight in this small DOCG. ‘There is a little more space to plant,’ a spokesperson said, ‘but we don’t have specific data.’ ◼ English winery Bolney Estate could see fresh development projects after its acquisition by Freixenet-Copestick, subsidiary of Henkell Freixenet, in January. Vineyard expansion is possible, but it’s early days, said Robin Copestick, Freixenet-Copestick MD. He…

Bordeaux 2019 revisited: an early taste and rating Wines are listed on the Left Bank by commune, north to south, then Right Bank; then in descending order by score, then alphabetically by producer. Where no UK stockist is specified, the price guides shown are approximate at time of writing: wines are generally widely distributed, so there will be availability across the market – consult specialist merchants for latest availability, listings and prices St-Estèphe 1 TOP SCORING Château Montrose 2CC 99 £113.33 (ib)-£145 A generous and abundant nose full of fruit and aromatic intensity followed by a gorgeous mouthfeel showcasing fruit density and concentration wrapped up in soft, velvety-smooth tannins. Just so much depth but also refinement, with just the right amount of fruit, toasty spice, tannins, freshness and acidity. The…

South African Sauvignon Blanc 10 top producers Sit up and take notice: South Africa is blazing a trail in the New World, making site-expressive Sauvignon Blanc. The local winemakers’ respect for their terroir has seen a growing number turning out Sauvignons that speak confidently of their origins. Here are 10 names to watch STORY MALU LAMBERT Tinashe Nyamudoka Kumusha Wines ‘Kumusha comes from my native language, Shona, and it means your roots, your home, or your origin,’ says Tinashe Nyamudoka, proprietor of the own-label brand. There are eight wines in the range, which includes wines from the Swartland, Slanghoek, Sondagskloof and the Western Cape at large. Nyamudoka started Kumusha Wines in 2017 with the assistance of winemaker friend Attie Louw of Opstal. Born and raised in Zimbabwe, Nyamudoka moved to…

Biography of a wine consultant 1963 Born, St Paul, Minnesota, USA 1981 Worked in kitchens in San Francisco and St-Thomas in the US Virgin Islands, before attending Le Cordon Bleu in Paris and apprenticing at the Hôtel de Crillon and La Grande Cascade, Bois de Boulogne 1994 Wine distributor salesman 2001 Sales at Clicquot Inc (Veuve Clicquot importer for the US) 2004 Passed Master of Wine exam; founded educational programme for Moët Hennessy USA 2008 Head of Department, Christie’s auction house (New York & Hong Kong) 2011 Columnist, La Revue du Vin de France, China 2012 Founded a fine wine advisory called WineAlpha, focused on private clients and appraisals 2014 Published The Original Grand Crus of Burgundy 2015 Senior editor Le Pan magazine, Hong Kong 2020 Published Vintage Champagne 1899-2019…

SPONSORED GUIDE KEKFRANKOS THE BLUE OF THE DANUBE To really understand Hungarian wine, you’ll have to familiarise yourself with its prime red grape. Though it can be light in body, Kékfrankos is the perfect vehicle to convey the full, complex character and individuality of Hungary’s multi-faceted regions and terroirs STORY CAROLINE GILBY MW One third of Hungary’s grapevines are red varieties, and the most important by far is Kékfrankos. Hungary grows more of this characteristically Central European grape than any other country, with 7,543ha (Austria is next with 2,630ha, where it’s better known as Blaufränkisch). Arguably Hungary has missed a trick by failing to lay claim to Kékfrankos as its own up to now, though this is changing. Research has found that it’s a cross of the promiscuous Weisser Heunisch…

DECANTER WORLD WINE AWARDS Portugal: red wines of distinction The quality revolution continues at the Decanter World Wine Awards… From bold, rich reds of the Douro to fresh, aromatic styles from Alentejo, the quality' and distinct regional diversity of Portugal’s red wines continues to rise. With top-scoring wines recognised as international benchmarks, Decanter World Wine Awards results across previous years highlight Portugal’s ongoing quality revolution - the2021competition being the nation’s best year yet for top-quality' reds. Not only were more red wines awarded 95 points or above than in any other competition year, but from a greater variety' of regions including Alentejo, Alentejano, Tejo, Douro and Dao. It was Dao that particularly impressed in 2021, with the region’s first-ever Best in Show (value) medal awarded to the Boas Quintas, Gandarada…

The wines to match NEW WORLD PINK FIZZ Sparkling wine is always good with deep-fried food and, with the hot spicy sauce, we suggest a rosé. Champagne or English sparkling wine could taste a little lean with this dish, so perhaps go for a New World sparkling wine with a bit more fruit, or a Cava rosado. Try: Graham Beck, Brut Rosé, Western Cape, South Africa NV 89 £15.50-£16.99 Cadman, Majestic, SA Wines, Vinvm Pieter Ferreira is so identified with sparkling wine he’s known in South Africa as ‘Bubbles Ferreira’ and is a master of the country’s Méthode Cap Classique, as exemplified by this enticingly fruity sparkling rosé. Packed with summer berry fruits but with an elegant mousse, it’s an attractive aperitif and party wine but also a versatile partner…

TRAVEL YOUR ALGARVE ADDRESS BOOK ACCOMMODATION 3HB Faro The first five-star boutique property in the Algarve capital with a rooftop infinity pool, cocktail bar and gourmet restaurant with panoramic views. Only 15 minutes by taxi from Faro airport, there are stylish rooms and a modern spa. 3hb.com/home/3hb-faro São Rafael Atlântico A contemporary five-star hotel in Albufeira with spacious rooms and a spa as well as direct beach access and three outdoor pools in its tropical gardens. Breakfast can be enjoyed on the terrace, with pancakes and other treats made freshly for you. saorafaelatlantico.com Vila Vita Parc This five-star resort on the coast in Porches offers private tastings in the exclusive wine cellar or dinner in 10 different restaurants, including Michelin two-star Ocean. Many of the rooms, apartments and villas have…

WHAT IS?… Smoke taint PHOTOGRAPHS MYKHAILO LUKASHUK/GETTY IMAGES, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS (3), HERVE LENAIN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO Devastating wildfires have ravaged California and its vineyards in recent years, meaning the potential issues posed by smoke taint have become a big topic. When smoke taint occurs, burning wood releases volatile phenols that can be absorbed by grapes and which then bind to molecules in the grape, later being released during the winemaking process, thus tainting the wine. Commonly cited blemishes include notes of wet cigar or ash, medicinal aromas, and a sticking plaster or chemical smell. Smoke taint is, however, considered relatively rare and does not automatically affect vineyards near to a fire, although smoke can of course pose air quality risks for vineyard workers. Key factors in the extent to which…

PANEL TASTING Red Graves 2016 It’s a good time to stock up – our judges enjoyed plenty of high-scoring wines showing fleshy fruit and depth yet structure and freshness, too REPORT ANDY HOWARD MW Over in Bordeaux, the 2016 vintage is acknowledged as one of the finest of the century – so far! This added extra interest to an exciting tasting of red wines from Graves and Pessac-Léognan, already notable for being the last ever Decanter panel tasting to be held in its former Canary Wharf office, before the company’s move to offices in Paddington, west London. The judges were highly impressed with 2016’s winning combination of succulent, ripe fruit interwoven with fine tannins and an enduring freshness on the finish. Out of 65 wines tasted, six were awarded scores…

WEEKDAY WINES Looking for everyday drinking wines that won’t disappoint? The Decanter in-house tasting team has done all the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines that are all ready to drink now, are available in the UK and priced at £20 or less RECOMMENDED BY JAMES BUTTON, NATALIE EARL, TINA GELLIE, INES SALPICO, JULIE SHEPPARD, AMY WISLOCKI & SYLVIA WU Bird in Hand, Sparkling Brut, South Australia 2021 £15.99 Waitrose This straightforward, good-value fizz blends Shiraz, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay with the 85% Pinot Noir. Pale pink, it’s bursting with juicy and fresh red cherry and strawberry fruit, and a lick of cream. Modern in style. AW Alcohol 12.5% Cortese, Vanedda Bianco, Sicily, Italy 2018 £16.99-£17.99 Gusto Wines, The Dorset Wine Co A 50/50 blend of…

Monitor: latest sales activity – Bordeaux Sponsored by Château Lafite Rothschild has seen some of the biggest price rises among Bordeaux wines recently (see chart, right). It also suggests price increases haven’t been constrained to top-rated vintages. Lafite 2013, for instance, was up about 30% in price on Bordeaux Index’s LiveTrade platform in 2021. Elsewhere, the auction scene continued to demonstrate interest in mature Bordeaux, particularly from top vintages. Six magnums of Mouton Rothschild 1953 more than doubled the pre-sale high estimate at a recent Christie’s online auction, fetching $87,500 (£64,500). Four magnums of Margaux 1953 sold for $75,000 at the same auction (pre-sale high estimate: $30,000). Eight bottles of Lafite Rothschild 1982 also fetched $37,500 (pre-sale high estimate: $32,000). Of younger wines, three bottles of Petrus 2016 fetched $22,500…