Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2021 i Decanter

Welcome As the new custodian of Decanter, I should introduce myself. I’m a journalist and editor of many years experience, and over my career I’ve launched, worked on and run a few things you might have heard of, from Fleet Street newspapers to big-selling magazines, global awards and respected websites. But I have never felt so simultaneously honoured and apprehensive as I do now. Decanter – now a rich website, a splendid magazine, and much more – is a very special thing. Its history began nearly a half-century ago, in 1975, and since then it has hosted many of the greatest wine writers of our time. There is a depth of wisdom here which is rare, and to be greatly treasured. In an age when attention spans are measured in…

In brief Stay up to date with the latest wine news on Decanter.com, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter @Decanter ■ South Africa’s government has partially lifted an alcohol sales ban, imposed due to Covid-19. Trade body Vinpro welcomed the move but said intermittent bans since March 2020 have cost the industry 8 billion rand (£390m) in direct sales. MD Rico Basson said it was ‘too late for some businesses’, while excess supply in some winery cellars would mean ‘tough decisions’ as the 2021 harvest began. ■ Fifth growth Château du Tertre has been sold by the Albada Jelgersma family, which will focus on fellow Margaux estate Giscours and Caiarossa in Tuscany. Alexander van Beek, MD for the wineries, said there is ‘enormous determination to really put Giscours where…

Andrew Jefford ‘It should be too hot for all this quality’ Something strange is going on, at least in France. We’re all beneficiaries. And when we try to account for this strangeness, it’s hard not to think of a blonde-haired girl and three bowls of breakfast porridge. More on Goldilocks later. Heat is the issue, and its effect on vintage quality. It won’t have escaped the attention of Decanter readers that we are into an amazing six-vintage run in most French regions since 2015, with only 2017 letting the side down. It’s early to call 2020, but first signs are encouraging: good to great, let’s provisionally say, with growers in Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Loire, Alsace and northern Rhône all thrilled with results. 2019 looks plausibly great too, and unquestionably very…

Bordeaux 2018 2018 REVISITED: BORDEAUX IN BOTTLE After tasting nearly 600 recently bottled Bordeaux wines from the 2018 vintage, Jane Anson finds it to be a highly successful vintage for the reds on both banks, with notable high points, particularly in Pauillac, Margaux and St-Emilion. Here she makes a selection of 50 of her top-scoring reds, in terms of both quality and value Photograph: Ian Shaw/Alamy Stock Photo ‘St-Emilion in particular stood out for having really delivered on the potential that it showed during en primeur’ As with the en primeur tastings earlier in the year, the Bordeaux 2018 in-bottle assessment coincided with a lockdown in France, during which travelling became complicated. But in the end, between visits to châteaux and home deliveries, I tasted more or less double…

Bordeaux 2018 Bordeaux 2018 revisited: an early taste of 50 of Anson’s top-scoring reds Wines are listed on the Left Bank by commune, north to south, then Right Bank; then in descending order by score, and then alphabetically by producer. The price guides shown are approximate at time of writing: wines are generally widely distributed, so there will be availability across the market – please consult your usual specialist merchants for the latest listings and prices St-Estèphe 1 Château Montrose 2CC 98 £120 (ib)-£187 Rich and deep with beautifully nuanced dark chocolate, mocha, cocoa bean and liquorice. Just full of understated power and silky tannins. This is gorgeous and among my top wines of the Left Bank. As it opens in the glass you get sweet black cherry and cassis…

A rock and a hard place In Monterey, Christopher Miller MS found his estate, Seabold Cellars, in the middle of three separate blazes. ‘On the Air Quality Index, where 150 is bad, one of our vineyards was at 400 for days. You would need oxygen tanks to go there. Once we could go in, we couldn’t secure a picking crew. I had to delay one vineyard’s harvest by two weeks. Not only that, but roads were closed, houses had burned down and there were power outages. And this is on top of already dealing with Covid.’…

Domaine du Cellier aux Moines: the whole-bunch method Two major advantages of whole-bunch fermentation, according to owner Philippe Pascal, are having intact berries and using the stems as ‘a sponge’. Since there is little destemming after harvest, the majority of the berries are virtually intact prior to fermentation. When fermentation begins, it does so within the berry, and then they burst. Pascal believes that even this brief intra-berry fermentation captures aromas better and results in better extraction of flavours. He adds that stems absorb unpleasant tannins like a sponge. In short, he’s convinced that, if done properly, the wine will be more refined with a more elegant structure and better aromas.…

Vintage report A taste of the top southern Rhônes Wines are listed by commune, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. Some 2019s are not yet bottled, hence some prices, stockists and alcohol levels are not yet known. Contact your regular specialist merchants for latest prices and en primeur offers Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1 Alain Jaume, Domaine Grand Veneur La Fontaine 96 £65 adVINture, Earle Wines, Bibendum Wine, Georges Barbier, H2Vin North-facing Roussanne planted on clay limestone. Fermented and matured for 10 months in barriques, 50% new, 50% one year old. Very smart indeed – perfectly balanced, very fresh, great expression of Roussanne – it captures its power, shows its affinity with oak, displays its potential for quality and longevity. An extraordinary Roussanne, organic, with great freshness and authenticity. 4,000 bottles made.…

Spirits Distilled by Decanter A guide to the latest trends in spirits and cocktails. Edited by Julie Sheppard WHAT TO DRINK NOW... The Daiquiri Unlike many cocktail recipes, whose origins are debated or simply lost in the mists of time, the invention of the Daiquiri is well documented and undisputed. This deliciously simple mix of rum, lime juice and sugar was invented in Cuba by American engineer Jennings Cox, who in 1898 was living in the small town of Daiquiri, overseeing local iron-ore mining operations. Experimenting with the local ingredients he had to hand and his monthly Bacardi Carta Blanca ration, Cox mixed up the first Daiquiri, recording the original recipe in his diary. For a more sophisticated take on the original, try the aged and charcoal-filtered…

Straight talk: the best bourbons for mixing 1 Maker’s Mark 46, Kentucky £35.18-£47/70cl Amazon UK, Distillers Direct, Harvey Nichols, Master of Malt, The Whisky Exchange, The Whisky World, Waitrose Rich nose of toasted oak and vanilla from seared French staves; an equally intense palate – here’s a buttery, complex bourbon that can withstand the ice melt of a Mint Julep. Solid abv. Alcohol 47% 2 Four Roses Single Barrel, Kentucky £39.43-£49.90/70cl Distillers Direct, Master of Malt, The Whisky Exchange, Urban Drinks This high rye content, high-alcohol bourbon really blossoms in a Mint Julep as the ice melts. Honeyed notes keep on giving, along with fruity complexity and enduring cinnamon spice, backed by a long finish. Alc 50% 3 Woodford Reserve, Kentucky £30.75-£33.50/70cl Master of Malt, Sainsbury’s, Tesco, The Drinks Basket,…

Readers’ questions Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine questions and share their knowledge Burgundy 2008s What is your view on the 2008 vintage for red Burgundy today? Trond A Gudbrandsen, by email Charles Curtis MW replies: The 2008 vintage in Burgundy is remembered as perhaps the best example of a season ‘saved by the bell’, or more appropriately, saved by une belle arrière-saison – the timely intervention of dry, sunny weather at the very last moment. Growers certainly needed saving in 2008. The season started poorly – snow almost until Easter – and it never really got better, with cold, wet weather in much of the season. The sun finally came out on 14 September, along with a strong north…

Decanter Buying guide Expert recommendations • Essential reading Photograph: Nic Crilly-Hargrave This month’s tastings PANEL TASTING Bobal 59 wines tasted Spain’s Mediterranean southeast offers plenty to enjoy with its fruity reds and rosés: 1 Outstanding, 15 Highly Recommended EXPERT’S CHOICE Discovering Georgia By Carla Capalbo Traditional amber and qvevri, modern white, rosé, red... Find 18 fascinating, affordable wines to try from Europe’s cradle of wine The Decanter guarantee Our buying guide provides you with trusted, independent, expert recommendations on what to buy, drink and cellar. Each panel tasting is judged by three experienced tasters chosen for their authority in the category of wine being rated. All wines are tasted blind and are pre-poured for judges in flights of 8-10 wines. Our experts taste and score wines individually but then discuss their…

Panel tasting THE VERDICT Producing fresh, fruity reds and rosés in a variety of styles, Spain’s Bobal grape is ready to step into the spotlight. Julie Sheppard reports on Decanter’s first tasting of this native Spanish variety Nearly everything we tasted today was a wine you could enjoy and recommend,’ praised Christine Parkinson. ‘It’s as though there’s this whole grape variety that’s been waiting in the shadows, that suddenly leapt out fully fledged, ready to feature on wine lists and become our new favourite.’ The quality of the six Bobal rosés impressed. ‘I really liked the lighter-coloured wines,’ said Beth Willard. ‘They were super-fresh and delicate, pretty in colour, but they lost nothing with the intensity of fruit; there was still lots of lovely red fruit character.’ There was good…

Marketwatch: Bordeaux Spotlight on Bordeaux en primeur With the 2020 campaign due to get underway in the early summer, we consider the strengths and weaknesses of the current en primeur system Photograph: Miguel Lecuona Bordeaux 2020 en primeur will soon be on the horizon, but what can we expect, and are there lessons for collectors from recent campaigns? Bordeaux négociants recently affirmed their readiness to launch the 2020 campaign at the more usual time of May and June this year. The Bordeaux Négoce union also praised price cuts for the delayed 2019 releases last summer. Discounts of more than 20% versus 2018 release prices created strong demand for several top names, including Mouton Rothschild, Pontet-Canet, Pichon Comtesse and Lynch Bages. ‘We commend the decision taken by the majority of…

Tasted & rated for Decanter Premium Château d’Yquem, Sauternes 1CCS, Bordeaux 2001 97pts From a superstar vintage, ‘this is still extremely young’, wrote Jane Anson in February. ‘Having recently tasted a 1989 Yquem, I have no question this [will] age just as effortlessly.’ Sauternes hasn’t set the secondary market alight, but this is a prestigious wine expected to drink well for at least another two decades. Its price journey hasn’t been a straight road, albeit Liv-ex’s market price was £3,950 (12x75cl in bond) versus £2,600 ex-London release. Listings included: £2,050 (12x37.5cl in bond, original wooden case) via Bordeaux Index BIX Broking; £2,400 (6x75cl in bond) via Berry Bros & Rudd BBX marketplace. Collectors and investors will find a wealth of useful information on Decanter.com/Premium, including expert assessments of new vintage…

Decanter WINE LEGENDS SCREAMING EAGLE, CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1997 Napa Valley, California, USA A legend because… In 1986, a successful Napa Valley estate agent, Jean Phillips, acquired a 23ha property on the eastern side of the valley in Oakville. There was a tiny parcel of Cabernet Sauvignon, and André Tchelistcheff was among those who recommended replanting the white-grape vines with Bordeaux varieties. The first commercial release of the dramatically named wine was 1992, with Heidi Peterson Barrett as the winemaker. Just under 1ha was used for this wine, as Phillips sold off most of the grapes. Robert Parker gave this 1992 wine a perfect score, and the rest is history. Looking back Screaming Eagle was the best known of a number of micro-estates that took Napa Valley, and wealthy wine collectors,…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? The Decanter team has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting wines available in the UK and priced at £20 or less – perfect for everyday drinking, and ready to enjoy now Recommended by: James Button, Tina Gellie, Georgie Hindle, Julie Sheppard, Amy Wislocki and Sylvia Wu Comte de Senneval, Brut, Champagne, France 2014 90 £19.99 Lidl Great value for a vintage Champagne, at just £20. This is all about crisp red apple and red-berry fruit – vibrant, youthful and fresh. There’s a subtle biscuity character, but this wine is first and foremost about fruit intensity. AW Alcohol 12.5% Céu na Terra, Alvarinho, Vinho Verde, Portugal 2019…

20 top white buys NZ SAUVIGNON BLANC: 20 TOP BUYS FROM 2020 The 2020 vintage for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is a must-buy for lovers of the style. Cameron Douglas MS shares his expert assessment, and recommends some top picks As with so many wine regions, New Zealand had its share of new and unexpected challenges for the 2020 harvest, as the country entered its Covid-19 Alert Level 4 (lockdown) on 26 March, a few weeks after picking had begun. But a high-quality fruit harvest across most wine regions, in addition to the New Zealand government listing the wine sector as an ‘essential service’, came as real blessings. The 2020 vintage has been excellent for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, with an increase in plantings, crush, fruit quality, ripeness and flavour.…

Burgundian delights: Apstein’s pick of the Domaine du Cellier aux Moines vintages Cellier aux Moines, Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier aux Moines 2017 96 £39.17-£42.75 Haynes Hanson & Clark, Millésima In Burgundy’s Janus-like 2017 vintage, this wine has the requisite substance, structure and balance for the long haul. This was the first year the domaine was almost fully biodynamic, and that perhaps explains the wine’s brilliance. Immediately expressive, this grabs your attention. Aromas leap from the glass. On the palate, it combines firm mineral qualities with a Bing cherry-like fruitiness in a suave and elegant package. Fractionally less ripe compared to the 2015, its minerality shines. A hint of bitterness on the finish adds to its appeal. Supple yet firm tannins provide perfect support. Drink 2026-2030 Alcohol 13.5% Cellier…

HOW TO… understand the difference between Cognac and Armagnac Cognac and Armagnac are both French brandies made from white grapes. The respective terroirs of the two regions affect taste, but in addition Armagnac is often characterised as the more ‘rustic’ spirit of the two, thanks to key differences in production. Cognac is made from Ugni Blanc grapes, distilled using a pot still. Armagnac producers use three additional varieties – Folle Blanche, Colombard and Baco – and column stills. Ageing practices and legal requirements also vary: for example, Cognac must be aged for at least two years in Limousin oak to qualify as VS (Very Special); while VS Armagnac is only aged for a minimum of one year, generally in Gascon oak, but increasingly from Limousin, too. For more on Cognac,…

Food & wine A perfect pairing: MUSSEL SOUP In the first of a regular food and wine matching feature, Chilean-born wine expert Raul Diaz chooses two wine styles to perfectly match his family’s quick and easy mussel soup recipe. He plumps for a toasty dry white from the New World, and an off-dry number from France In the 15 years that I have worked in wine, I have visited more than 100 countries around the globe. Along the way, I recorded the aromas, colours and amazing flavours of each of the local cuisines that I encountered, alongside some mind-blowing wines. In my new book Wines & Recipes I share these experiences. The inspiration for this book was my desire to turn the spotlight onto lesser-known grapes and wine…

Confused by a label? Unsure how to serve a wine? A burning bottle question on your mind? Ask Decanter… Our expert contributors are here to advise on any aspect of wine. Each month we will print the most interesting queries with a personal reply from a relevant expert. Simply email editor@decanter.com with your question – the more specific, the better – in no more than a single paragraph, and you could see your query, and a reply, in print. Please note we can only respond to those queries selected for publication.…

THE JUDGES Sarah Jane Evans MW Evans is an awarded journalist, author and broadcaster in food and wine, with a particular interest in Spain. A Master of Wine since 2006, she is chairman of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, author of The Wines of Northern Spain, and one of three Co-Chairs overseeing the Decanter World Wine Awards Christine Parkinson Parkinson is co-founder and drinks consultant at Brimful Drinks. Starting out in the kitchen and rising to head chef, she went on to become worldwide group head of wine for the Michelin-starred Hakkasan Group. Having led her team to the WSET Educator of the Year global award in 2016, she left Hakkasan in 2019 Beth Willard Photographs: Mark Greenland; Nic Crilly-Hargrave After moving to the UK from Australia, Willard…

New releases Vega Sicilia’s Unico 2011 has been released at the equivalent of £2,844 per 12-bottle case in bond, Liv-ex reports. UK merchant Fine & Rare offered three-bottle packs for £711ib, noting tha this vintage was the first to benefit from 81 new fermentation tanks installed to increase precision during winemaking. The wine ‘comes to market above [the price of] some recent vintages,’ said Liv-ex, adding that the highly rated Unico 2009 ‘appears to present significant value’. Armit Wines launched the highly anticipated Sassicaia 2018 (six bottles for £900ib), marking the 50th anniversary of its first commercial release. SuperTuscans have enjoyed a boom on the market of late. Other major releases due as Decanter went to press included Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2018s, on allocation in the UK through Corney…

Letter of the month Guessing game Congratulations on your enlightening article, ‘Sulphur dioxide in wine: the great debate’ (February 2021). I work in wine retail and am regularly asked for wines that don’t contain sulphites by customers who are unaware that all wines contain some, even if in very small quantities. Many consumers also wrongly believe that organic and biodynamic wines are sulphite free. A quick glance at the green leaf-shaped EU logo on the back label and they are sold. But is it surprising that consumers are so misinformed when labels carry such little information about what is actually in the wine? Producers know the exact quantity of sulphites in their wine, so why aren’t they required to state it on the label? Regular readers…

Weekend wines Wanting to splash out a little bit more to celebrate your weekend in style? As a companion selection to our 25 wines under £20, the Decanter team has selected seven standout bottles that are sure to impress, all available in the UK and priced between £20 and £50 Recommended by: James Button, Tina Gellie, Georgie Hindle, Julie Sheppard, Amy Wislocki and Sylvia Wu Bruno Paillard, Première Cuvée Brut, Champagne, France NV 92 £39.95-£49.99 Majestic, The Finest Bubble A blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and the rest Meunier, this delicious and complex Champagne contains reserve wines back to 1985, aged in a solera-like system. Taut, lemony, with a crisp salinity; moreish. AW Alc 12.5% Domaine Watson, Chablis, Burgundy, France 2018 92 £24.50 Private Cellar…

Reading the market: Anson’s price analysis and predictions Photograph: Ian Shaw /Alamy Stock Photo We are now almost two years on from en primeur, but the physical release of the bottles has not impacted 2018 prices as much as might have been hoped. Initial release prices were, in most cases, higher than 2017 – Liv-ex records the average price rise in the UK as being 17.9% higher than 2017, with European prices seen at almost exactly the same level as 2016 in many cases. Only a few 2018 prices have since moved upwards – with the biggest mover, according to Liv-ex, being Lafite-Rothschild, rising 16% since release to just under £7,000 on the UK market, no doubt helped by the special label that celebrates the 150th anniversary since the property…

Heat, fire and hope ‘For us, hell began in May, after the first heatwaves,’ says Jean-Baptiste Rivail (left), general manager of Newton Vineyard in Napa Valley. ‘100% of our irrigation is from collected rainwater, and by May we hadn’t had a drop of rain. ‘We realised we would have about 30% of the normal amount, so we worked really hard on irrigation. It went pretty well at first. We thought, “We’re going to be fine after all; it’s going to be a great year”. ‘The first fire was in mid-August, just in front of the winery, which was very concerning. We couldn’t get any smoke damage tests back because all the labs were overwhelmed. ‘When the third heatwave came in early September, we were hit pretty bad. Grapes on some…

The wine writer’s lot: (real) life in Provence Naively, we thought that life in Provence would be broadly similar to life in London – but there were certainly a few ways in which it surprised us, and many things we learned along the way. Here are just some that may ease your way if you opt to make a similar move Lessons learned When conversing with a stranger, particularly in a formal situation, you cannot be too polite. If the need arises to strike up a conversation with someone you have never met, you cannot simply start with ‘excuse me mate...’ and expect a civil response. In English, words have a specific, correct spelling. Not in French however; river names can have multiple spellings, and people are unbearably easygoing about…

TASTING NOTES DECODED Clove Written by Laura Seal Cloves are the dried flower buds of an evergreen tree native to Indonesia, commonly used as an aromatic cooking ingredient. In the festive season you might find them bobbing around in your mulled wine. While cloves are not added during regular winemaking, the impression of their flavour might be created during oak ageing. Clove notes can come from an aroma compound called eugenol, which is found in both oak and cloves. The influence of eugenol on the resultant wine depends on factors such as how the wood has been toasted or seasoned, and how long the wine spends in cask. Because of this oak connection, clove is categorised as a secondary aroma, alongside notes such as sandalwood, vanilla and cedar. In the…

BOBAL: THE FACTS Bobal is Spain’s third most-planted variety, with 62,000ha, after Tempranillo and Airén. Utiel-Requena DO Created 1957. An hour’s drive inland from Valencia city, located on a plateau 600m-900m above sea level. The DO is named after the two towns of Utiel and Requena. Climate favours organic growing. In production terms, Utiel-Requena dominates the Bobal leaderboard. Vineyard area 32,567ha, of which 67% is Bobal. 40% of the vines are older than 40 years. Manchuela DO Created 2004. In Cuenca province, between Utiel-Requena and Ribera del Júcar. 600m-1,100m above sea level. The land is carved out between the rivers Júcar and Cabriel to its north. Vineyard area 11,622ha Total volume 768,400hl, of which 72% is red. Bobal, the leading red variety, accounts for 41% of red production. Ribera del…

Expert’s choice DISCOVERING GEORGIA With the world’s longest history of winemaking, and distinctive styles including amber wines, it is perhaps surprising that Georgia isn’t better known – but that’s changing now, says Carla Capalbo Georgia’s place is well deserved as the birthplace of winemaking, originating more than 8,000 years ago. With a UNESCO-recognised, clay-vessel vinification method and more than 470 native grape varieties, it’s great that Georgia’s traditional and modern wines are now far more widely available. I sampled nearly 50 wines imported to Britain from Georgian producers small and large. They divide roughly into two groups: traditional, including amber, wines made by family producers in clay qvevri – hand-made coil pots buried in the ground – and contemporary, ‘European-style’ wines from Georgian grapes made by larger wineries favouring steel…

LOOKING AHEAD Burgundy: Clos de Tart 2019 An interesting property to track, acquired by Château Latour owner François Pinault in 2017. The Clos de Tart, Grand Cru Monopole 2019 is due for en primeur release in April, said Corney & Barrow. Decanter’s Charles Curtis MW rated it 95 pts: ‘impressive on every level’. California: Ridge Monte Bello 2020 Ridge Vineyards’ en primeur offer for Monte Bello is known for providing a discount on the later in-bottle release. This year’s international offer (non-US) is set to begin in about April, but a smaller 2020 crop means quantity will be lower than usual. There will also be the usual direct en primeur offer for the winery’s collector members in the US. Bordeaux 2020 En primeur tastings for journalists and professionals will take…

The Bordeaux Index view Fine wines & spirits specialists Bordeaux Index kindly sponsor this section of Decanter, and provide their view on the market here. They can be found at Bordeauxindex.com. Our main market call for 2021 is a potential ‘breakthrough’ year for Bordeaux prices, certainly back up to mid-2018 levels, and perhaps beyond those. We saw trading activity in Bordeaux up almost 25% in Q4 compared to the same period in 2019, and this points to upwards price momentum already being evident in a number of wines. As is often the case, older vintages, with their greater market scarcity, can start to move sooner – see, for example, Châteaux Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion 1998. But some 2015s and 2016s – Haut-Brion 2015 and Lafite 2016, for instance –…