Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2020 i Decanter

WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTH The wine that brought me the most pleasure over the last month of lockdown (and believe me, that was precious) was the Donatella Cinelli Colombini, Brunello di Montalcino 2014 (£36.67 Millésima). As ever with Brunello, this was the pleasure of the semi-mature wine: the plums and berries now in retreat in a mist of truffle, warm forest, frankincense and animal comfort, and flavours in which a warm, resonant acidity meshes seamlessly with time-ripened tannins and the glow of those remembered fruits. Great vineyards – but great cellar work, too.…

Letter from Rh™ne Matt Walls ‘We fear wine prices will collapse, which would add a crisis to the crisis’ From the hillside hideaway of Gigondas you can look down across a sea of lime-green vines all the way to Cairanne. It’s the end of May and flowering has begun; a precarious moment, but the forecast is good. Cellars, however, are eerily quiet. ‘From 15 March to now, our private domaines have been at a standstill,’ says Pierre Saysset, director of the Fédération des Vignerons Indépendants for the Rhône. ‘Turnover for March is down 50%, for April it’s down 72%, and it’s probably the same or even worse for May.’ The Covid-19 pandemic has claimed the lives of countless people in France as it has around the world, and Saysset believes…

The Decanter Hall of Fame 2019 Becky Wasserman-Hone, Burgundy 2018 Eduardo Chadwick, Chile 2017 Steven Spurrier, England 2016 Denis Dubourdieu, France 2015 Alvaro Palacios, Spain 2014 Jean-Pierre & François Perrin, Rhône 2013 Gerard Basset OBE MW MS, England 2012 Paul Symington, Portugal 2011 Giacomo Tachis, Italy 2010 Aubert de Villaine, Burgundy 2009 Nicolás Catena, Argentina 2008 Christian Moueix, Bordeaux 2007 Anthony Barton, Bordeaux 2006 Marcel Guigal, Rhône 2005 Ernst Loosen, Mosel 2004 Brian Croser, Adelaide Hills 2003 Jean-Michel Cazes, Bordeaux 2002 Miguel Torres, Penedès 2001 Jean-Claude Rouzaud, Champagne 2000 Paul Draper, California 1999 Jancis Robinson OBE MW, London 1998 Angelo Gaja, Piedmont 1997 Len Evans OBE AO, Australia 1996 Georg Riedel, Austria 1995 Hugh Johnson OBE, London 1994 May-Eliane de Lencquesaing, Bordeaux 1993 Michael Broadbent MW, London 1992 André Tchelistcheff,…

ROUSSILLON: THE FACTS Appellations for table wine/vin sec Côtes du Roussillon (red, white, rosé); Côtes du Roussillon Villages (red only) with village designations for Caramany, Latour-de-France, Lesquerde, Tautavel and Les Aspres Collioure (red, white, rosé) Maury Sec (red only) IGPs Côtes Catalanes (optional addition of ‘Pyrénées-Orientales’), Côte Vermeille Vin doux (sweet) Banyuls (blanc, ambré, rosé, rimage, traditionnel, hors d’âge, rancio) Banyuls grand cru Maury (blanc, ambré, grenat, tuilé, hors d’âge, rancio) Muscat de Rivesaltes Rivesaltes (ambré, rosé, tuilé, grenat, hors d’âge, rancio) Area under vine 13,619ha (2019) Altitude From 0m-650m, most about 200m-350m Soil types Very varied; Maury based on schist; granite, clay and limestone (Continues, p28...) Climate Hot summers, drought; tempered by altitude and maritime influence Wine estates 411 Cooperatives 26 Principal grapes Red Grenache Noir, Carignan, Mourvèdre, Syrah,…

Champagne HAS THE CHAMPAGNE PRICE BUBBLE BURST? We’ve been living in an era of bargain bubbly. Yet, despite ever-increasing costs, producers have for years kept a lid on the prices you pay. Change is on the horizon, says Tyson Stelzer, though your favourite celebratory tipple will remain a relative bargain in the immediate term Photographs: Aaron Tait; Leif Carlsson; Thomas Skovsende; Whole Foods Market IP LP The writing is on the chalk cellar wall. Champagne vineyard prices are up more than five-fold in 25 years. Grape prices are up 80% in 15 years. The region boasts the highest cost of production in the wine world. Yet the price of a bottle of Champagne has risen just 13% in the past decade. Can Champagne continue to churn out the most affordable…

Worldly ambitions: five wines to try Checkmate, Queen’s Advantage Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley 2015 92 N/A UK www.checkmatewinery.com Planted in 1973 on Golden Mile Bench, these are BC’s oldest Chardonnay vines Scented passion fruit and pineapple plus lemon curd. Bright, lemony acidity braces against the sweet fruit with some pie crust oak spice (from 16 months in oak) on the silky yet fleshy palate. Shows how good Okanagan Chardonnay can be – made by Australian-born winemaker Phil McGahan, formerly of Williams Selyem in Russian River. Drink 2020-2025 Alcohol 14.4% 1 Painted Rock, Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley 2018 91 £48.50 (2017) The Wine Treasury Charming, elegant, bracing and bright, using fruit from the coolest part of Painted Rock’s vineyards by lake Skaha. French viticulturist Alain Sutre has consulted here since 2006. White peach…

Howard tastes the latest releases 1 Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde 2019 93 £34 Frazier’s, Harrogate Fine Wine Co, Hedonism, Jeroboams, The Oxford Wine Co, The Wine Reserve, Thorne Wines A very fine Chardonnay made in difficult circumstances given the fire/smoke issues in the Western Cape. Unlike the 2019 Pinot Noir (below), this has been made with 100% estate fruit, and is very successful. Bunches were pressed whole (rather than destemmed) to reduce smoke taint risks. Very crisp on the palate with fine acidity and a touch of stone fruit, this is mineral, concentrated and elegant. Very youthful, so ideally give it another 12 months to blossom. Drink 2021-2027 Alcohol 13% 2 Ashbourne, Sandstone, Hemel-en-Aarde 2019 92 £16.99 Thorne Wines An intriguing blend of 49% Sauvignon Blanc, 26% Semillon and…

PAYS D’OC: THE GLOBAL PICTURE The numbers for Pays d’Oc IGP are impressive. In 2017, Vitisphere reported the area under vine in France as 745,000ha. Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AP) vineyards totalled 446,000ha, while all France’s IGPs amounted to 195,000ha – the Pays d’Oc IGP alone has 120,000ha under vine. On a global scale, the Pays d’Oc IGP has a vineyard area similar to South Africa (total 125,000ha). The classification accounts for 20% of total French wine volumes, while the largest of the four regions (Hérault) produced 4 million hectolitres in 2017 – more than the whole of Bordeaux (3.6m hl).…

PROVENCE ROSE: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2019 A good vintage, in terms of both size and quality. Good to age, with some showing better after a year in bottle. 2018 A small, weaker vintage where négociant wines saved the day with strategic blending. Particularly pale colour. Most to drink up, but some surprises with a few ageing well. 2017 A small vintage due to spring frosts and a hot, dry summer. Good quality, good fruit. Ageing well. 2016 A small, dry vintage with concentrated berries resulting in fruity rosés, although some lack essential freshness and acidity. Best to drink. 2015 Small vintage but excellent quality. Ageing well, drink up. 2014 A cool vintage which resulted in fresh vibrant rosés. Ageing well, drink up.…

Provence rosé EXCEPTIONAL 98–100pts Clos Cibonne, Château Cibon Cuvée Marius, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé 2017 Decanter average score: 98/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Elizabeth Gabay MW 98 Joanna Simon 98 Rod Smith MW 98 £47-£56 Exel, Last Drop Wines, Red Squirrel, Theatre of Wine, The Good Spirits Co, Vin Cognito, Vindinista This 15ha property overlooking Toulon harbour has been part of the Roux family’s ancestry for almost 230 years. It wasn’t until 1930 that André Roux decided to dedicate the land exclusively to vines, especially the ancient variety Tibouren – not widely planted outside Provence, this is an intensely aromatic black grape with a thin skin, which is notoriously difficult to grow. The family still champions Tibouren, which makes up 90% of its vineyards, and some plots are more than…

News Month in wine All the important issues affecting you across the globe, compiled by Laura Seal Bordeaux 2019: prices reflect global events This year’s Bordeaux en primeur campaign launched into an uncertain market with a wave of discounts for what was ‘unhesistatingly a successful vintage’, according to Jane Anson. Pauillac fifth growth Château Pontet-Canet fired the starting gun on 28 May with its release at £61 a bottle, a 31% drop versus the previous year. Liv-ex reported it to be one of the lowest priced vintages of Pontet-Canet on the market and the lowest ex-Bordeaux release price since 2008. Rather than a statement on vintage quality, en primeur discounts appeared to be recognition of the uncertain economic climate, coloured by 25% US tariffs and the widespread impact of the…

Letter of the month Adapt to survive The rapid spread of Covid-19 has obviously had a devastating impact on the global economy, with the hospitality industry being particularly affected. The world of wine has been criticised in the past for not moving with the times and embracing change. However, in the last few months I have been really impressed with the nimbleness and innovation, the forward thinking and the use of technology that wine companies are using to stay afloat during this pandemic (examples being virtual tastings, new e-commerce delivery options and partnerships with media channels). Well done for thinking outside the box, and keep up the great work. Benjamin Lewis, London, UK…

Jane Anson ‘It is possible to envisage a new way of selling Bordeaux’ Photograph: John O’Brien You might have read that Pepsi has begun bypassing grocery stores and selling direct to consumers during the Covid-19 outbreak. Apparently the company created and launched two new websites in less than a month in order to respond to the changed consumer landscape in which we all suddenly find ourselves. The wine world, also, has been moving towards new means of reaching consumers – some faster than others. In Tuscany, Alessia Antinori has said Marchesi Antinori is moving to a greater focus on online sales for both everyday and high-end wines. ‘It’s a way of life – and I think it will be continued,’ she told an industry magazine (whether or not during a…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? The Decanter team has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK priced at £25 or less Recommended by: James Button, Tina Gellie, Georgie Hindle, Julie Sheppard, Amy Wislocki and Sylvia Wu Pizzolato, Organic Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene Brut, Veneto, Italy 2019 90 O V £10 Co-op This Co-op exclusive is top value for money. Inviting nose of ripe pear and lemon leads to a fresh, lively palate, with crisp acidity and persistent bubbles. Zesty citrus notes, with orchard fruits and a lingering green apple finish. JS Alcohol 11% Heinrichshof, Sonnenuhr Riesling Trocken, Mosel, Germany 2017 92 V £17.95 Stannary Wine The steep, south-facing…

Tributes for Robert M Parker Jr Over the decades, Bob has helped to put fine wine on the global map by broadening its audience and enhancing the enjoyment of countless consumers. With characteristic humility, he has made it easier to distinguish fine wine from everyday wine – and to understand the differences. He has accomplished this thanks to his extraordinary discipline, his work ethic, his excellent palate, and his elastic vocabulary, which enables his prose to shift seamlessly from the metaphorical to the explicit. His legacy is one of passion and precision. Those of us in the Napa Valley may especially count ourselves fortunate to have been in the wine business during the last 40 years, when Bob gave this region a credibility closer to that of Old World properties…

TUSCANY: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2018 Overall rainy and cool, but varying localised weather patterns point to diverse results, even within each zone. Early releases from Chianti Classico are ready to drink, with soft structures and fresh aromas, though there is still much more to come. 4/5 2017 Damaging spring frosts followed by blistering drought resulted in a small crop and shrivelled berries. While Sangiovese resisted better than early-ripening Merlot, tannin ripeness is an issue. Some juicy and balanced surprises from Chianti Classico contrast austere wines with dry tannins from Vino Nobile. Top producers stand out. 3.5/5 2016 Very warm and sunny with occasional excesses but significant diurnal temperature differences. Wines from the coast to hilly inland zones ally power with grace and extraordinary aromatic precision. Excellent in Chianti Classico, while…

Bang for your buck: Stelzer’s top six 1 Krug, Grande Cuvée 166ème Edition Brut NV 97 £131.43-£180 DBM Wines, Goedhuis & Co, Jeroboams, Justerini & Brooks, L’Assemblage, Lay & Wheeler, Millésima, My Wine Cellar, Nickolls & Perks, The Finest Bubble 45% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay, 16% Meunier, blended from 140 wines dating from 1996 to 2010, including 42% reserves. Krug leads off where most other Champagne houses end, and its entry wine is every bit a prestige cuvée. It smells and tastes like no other wine, a monumental paradox of tense freshness, profound maturity and inimitable complexity. Decadently rich, extravagantly complex and thunderingly expansive, Grande Cuvée is a vinous Champagne of multifaceted personality, yet ever-heightened tension. For all it represents, spanning 25 years of production, it presents incredible value. Drink…

Portuguese whites TOP 20 ATLANTIC WHITES FROM PORTUGAL From tiny Colares and Palmela up along the Iberian west coast into world-renowned Vinho Verde, and out to the islands of Madeira and the windswept Azores, Sarah Ahmed takes a tour of Portugal’s Atlantic-influenced wine regions, selecting fresh, characterful whites to try As Portugal’s white wines have risen to prominence, so have her Atlantic-facing regions. The best wines deliver remarkable intensity and character, with the (acid) backbone for ageing; sometimes a salty sea tang. Unobtrusive oak use – if any – with lees ageing for mouthfeel, lets the ocean hold sway. Atlantic exposure was key to my selection, in locations not more than 20km from the ocean, making the wind and wave-whipped Azores and Madeira islands an obvious starting point. A flurry…

Howard’s dozen: top wines of the Pays d’Oc 1 Domaine Saint Ferréol, Grande Réserve Viognier 2017 92 £17.99 Majestic Released after several years’ ageing in bottle, a fleshy, weighty Viognier, with flavours of white peach and pear, and fresh acidity to balance. A hint of bitterness adds to the complexity. Lacks the mid-palate concentration of Condrieu but there is finesse here, which is a real surprise for an IGP Viognier from the far South. Drink 2020-2023 Alcohol 13% Foncalieu, Les Extraordinaires, Sillages Albariño 2019 92 £9.59-£12 Inverarity Morton, Le Bon Vin From Foncalieu’s Puichéric vineyard, this impressive example of Albariño displays all the freshness of its Galician counterpart, but with a little extra richness. It finishes with a distinct saline edge – bright citrus fruit notes, with a hint of…

Panel tasting THE VERDICT The solid standard was further proof that Provence rosé is one of the most reliable wine styles. Though real excitement was harder to find, the 2019 cru classés do stand out, says Georgie Hindle A‘really lovely and interesting tasting’, said Rod Smith MW. ‘It showed the quality of the 2019 vintage, which was clearly superior to 2018, with fewer issues of heat stress and cases where grapes were picked early at the expense of flavour, or less flavour at the expense of freshness.’ Liz Gabay MW agreed that the 2019s ‘really stood out’ and, despite some ‘cut-and-paste’ wines, praised the diversity of style throughout the tasting. ‘This year I felt we were getting more regional definition and varietal character – a massive plus and very promising.’…

Readers’ queries Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge How low can you go? A bottle of Château Haut-Brion 1966 has caught my attention, firstly because of its age, but also its ullage – the level appears to be at about mid-shoulder. The seller claims to have found the bottle on the floor of a basement during an estate sale. Would this be a good buy, or would I be wasting my money? Zach Cain, by email Dirceu Vianna Junior MW replies: Ullage, also referred to as fill level, is the space between the bottom of the cork and the wine. Producers aim for fill levels of 3-10mm at the time of bottling. Over time, some wine will…

Latest Krug Grande Cuvée release ‘one of the very best’ Krug’s newly released 168th edition of Grande Cuvée has been rated 96 points by Simon Field MW for Decanter.com/ Premium – two points up on the 167th edition launched last year. While reserve wines back to 1996 constitute 42% of ‘Edition 168’, the Champagne’s blend is based on the highly regarded 2012 vintage. It is 52% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 13% Pinot Meunier, and carries a recommended retail price of £150 per bottle in the UK, including duty and VAT. At the time of writing, merchants Farr Vintners and BI Fine Wine & Spirits were selling 12 bottles for £1,395 and £1,400 respectively, in bond.…

LEFLAIVE, MONTRACHET 1992 Côte de Beaune Grand Cru, Burgundy, France A legend because… For many decades, Domaine Leflaive was the benchmark estate in Puligny-Montrachet, with 22ha of fabulous vineyards (today almost 28ha) in many premiers crus and also in four grands crus. Its reputation had faded in the 1980s, possibly because generous yields had led to a loss of concentration. However, in 1990 Vincent Leflaive retired and his daughter Anne-Claude became a co-director alongside her cousin Olivier. By then she was formidably well trained as a soil expert and oenologist. In 1994 she was in charge, aided by Pierre Morey, the cellarmaster at the domaine for 20 years up to 2008, who shared her enthusiasm for biodynamic farming. The reputation of the domaine’s 1992 Montrachet may have been enhanced by…

In brief Stay up to date with the latest wine news on Decanter.com, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter @Decanter ■ A Cognac pre-dating the French Revolution – one of the world’s oldest-surviving bottles – has been sold by Sotheby’s via online auction for US$144,525. Sotheby’s said that the 70cl bottle of 1762 Gautier Cognac was ‘the oldest Cognac vintage ever sold at auction’, adding that the winning bid, from a collector in Asia, had set ‘a new auction record for a bottle of Cognac’. ■ Bordeaux wine expert Jane Anson has released a comprehensive guide to the region, titled Inside Bordeaux. The guide, published by UK merchant Berry Bros & Rudd and priced at £60, aims to offer fresh insights into ‘the châteaux, their wines and the terroir’.…

Andrew Jefford ‘Do wine drinkers genuinely seek pleasure above all?’ Are you a wine hedonist? Hedonism is ‘the pursuit of pleasure’; philosophically, it refers to the notion that pleasure is the highest good. We all drink wine for the pleasure it procures us, don’t we? So for the wine drinker, the best wines must be those that procure the most pleasure. That, surely, makes us all wine hedonists – though we may live according to different philosophical tenets in other areas of our life. Such has been the professional credo of this year’s Hall of Fame laureate, critic Robert Parker (see p18). His notes bubble and cascade with lovingly evoked sensual delight. He has little patience with wines that do not offer palpable sensual pleasure – and even less with…

WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTH Denis Durantou of Château L’Eglise Clinet, who died in May 2020, was one of the rare owners of a top-level Bordeaux property who also made the wine and walked the vineyards every day. He was a genius and I will miss his voice advocating for terroir-led wines in the region. His Château Montlandrie, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2016 is a fitting glass to raise – this brilliant property delivers value and succulent fruit year after year. Particularly intense and packed with blackberry and raspberry fruits in the 2016 vintage, just now softening to become perfect to drink.…

Decanter Hall of Fame award ROBERT M PARKER JR The most influential wine critic of all time? He can’t be described as anything less than a towering presence over the last four decades. Prolific, informed, at times divisive, always unflinchingly honest, Parker’s writings have made fortunes and redefined wine styles in some of the most famous regions – and become the go-to reference for wine collectors, investors and trade alike. Having set down his wine critic’s pen for good, the time is right for Robert Parker to enter the Decanter Hall of Fame. Andrew Jefford explains why ‘Robert Parker is the only rock star the wine world has ever produced’ Robert M Parker Jr is the 37th entrant to the Decanter Hall of Fame (previously Decanter Man of the Year)…

Regional profile A Roussillon dozen: George’s picks 1 Mas Mudigliza, Caudalouis, Côtes Catalanes 2014 94 £19.50 Champagnes & Châteaux Firm stony, sappy nose and very fresh on the palate – it simply does not taste six years old. Grenache Gris and Macabeo. There are hints of fennel, with firm acidity and incisive fruit. Shows great depth and length, amply demonstrating the potential of Roussillon for white wine. Drink 2020-2023 Alcohol 14% Domaine Gardiés, Les Glacières, Côtes du Roussillon 2018 92 £13.50 AdVINture, Jeroboams, The Wine Society A fresh, fragrant nose, with lemony fruit and herbal notes, and on the palate rounded fruit with very good acidity. It has a wonderful sapid quality, which leaves you wanting more. Grenache Blanc and Gris with Roussanne and Macabeo. Fresh and incisive, firm with…

A taste of Tuscany’s new releases Wines are listed within their DOCG regions and relevant vintage, then by score, and then alphabetically by producer. Availabilty and UK allocations for some wines may not yet be finalised – please contact specialist merchants for details. Chianti Classico 2018 1 Monteraponi 91 Monteraponi’s Michele Braganti finds similarities in the 2018 vintage with the 2010, from the development of the vines and grapes throughout the growing season to the consistency of the berries’ skins as well as the perfume of the must during vinification. Aromas are pretty, with great clarity of fresh, invigorating green herbs, forest brush and wild raspberry. The palate is generous with scrumptious fruit and an easy-to-drink, fluid texture. Fine, elegant tannins slink across the palate culminating with a sensation of…

HAMILTON RUSSELL VINEYARDS: A TIMELINE 1975 Tim Hamilton Russell buys 172ha of land in Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 1981 First vintage 1991 Anthony Hamilton Russell takes over from his father, establishing Hamilton Russell Vineyards as an estate, focusing only on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay 1994 Anthony Hamilton Russell completes purchase of estate, conducting soil mapping on 52ha 1994 Creation of separate Southern Right label, focusing on Pinotage and Sauvignon Blanc 1996 Creation of separate, adjoining 64ha estate for Ashbourne 2001 First release of Ashbourne Pinotage 2005 448ha estate set up for Southern Right, adjacent to Hamilton Russell Vineyards 2006 Hemel-en-Aarde Valley designated as a Wine of Origin (appellation) 2009 New winery built for Southern Right 2014 Winemaker Hannes Storm leaves and Emul Ross joins Hamilton Russell Vineyards 2017 Ashbourne Pinotage-Cinsault produced from…

THE JUDGES Elizabeth Gabay MW Gabay is a widely published wine writer, educator, speaker and consultant, with special interests in the wines of Provence and rosés from around the world. Author of Rosé, Understanding the Pink Wine Revolution (Infinite Ideas 2018), she is also president of the International Rosé Championship and a DWWA judge. Joanna Simon Simon is a widely published wine and food writer, presenter and judge. Formerly wine critic at The Sunday Times for 22 years, she co-founded The Wine Gang, was founding editor of Waitrose Drinks magazine, and now also blogs on www.joannasimon.com. Her specialist areas include matching wine with food. Rod Smith MW Smith is a wine educator, journalist and consultant, and the DWWA Regional Chair for Provence. Based in the Côte d’Azur, he is director…

TASTING NOTES DECODED Cranberry Written by Laura Seal This small, round red berry grows in clusters on low-lying evergreen shrubs. The acidity of fresh cranberries largely overwhelms their sweetness, so they are usually cooked and sweetened into sauce, jam or juice form. That sweet-tart flavour profile makes cranberry a useful wine descriptor, sitting in the red fruit spectrum probably between raspberry and redcurrant. You can look for cranberry notes in red wines with high acidity, like some young Pinot Noir wines from cooler climates, such as Germany, Alsace, the Loire Valley or even Oregon in the US. Younger Grenache wines can also have relatively high acidity and tart red fruit flavours including cranberry, as can Italy’s Barbera or Lambrusco grapes. In this issue (p37), the Querciabella, Chianti Classico Riserva 2016…

Decanter fine wine price watch Below are the most recent merchant case prices (equivalent 12 x 750ml bottles) for wines that are actively traded among a global network of merchants on Liv-ex, the fine wine market. Liv-ex records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe. All prices are in GBP and exclude sales tax. The numbers in green indicate those prices which have increased since last month, whilst the numbers in red have decreased. THE LIV-EX 100 INDEX Index level at end of May 2020 The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The majority of the index consists of Bordeaux wines –…